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Ulupalakua

Wine region
Type	American Viticultural Area
Year established	2021
Years of wine industry	30
Country	United States
Part of	Hawaii
Growing season	175-200 days
Climate region	Region V
Heat units	5,580 GDD units
Precipitation (annual average)	30.7 in (780 mm)
Soil conditions	Kula cobbly loam
Total area	70 acres (0.11 sq mi)
Size of planted vineyards	16 acres (6.5 ha)
No. of vineyards	1
Grapes produced	Chenin Blanc, Gewurztraminer, Grenache, Malbec, Syrah, Petite Sirah and Viognier

Ulupalakua is the initial American Viticultural Area (AVA) in the state of Hawaii located on the island of Maui. It was established as the 257^th AVA on June 30, 2021 by the Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau (TTB), Treasury after reviewing the petition submitted by Mark Beaman, former winemaker at Maui Wines, proposing a viticultural area named "Ulupalakua."

The AVA is located within the privately-owned, 18,000 acres (28 sq mi), Ulupalakua Ranch on the western slopes of Mount Haleakala, a massive shield volcano that covers more than 75% of the island of Maui, Hawaii. The viticultural area is approximately 70 acres (0.11 sq mi) with approximately 16 acres (6.5 ha) of vineyards. Although there is no winery within the AVA boundary, grapes are made into wine at the Maui Wines facility, which is a short distance south of the AVA. According to the petition, the distinguishing features of the Ulupalakua AVA include its topography, soils, and climate.

History

The term "Ulupalakua" translates from the Hawaiian language as “breadfruit ripened on the back.” The petition states that local folklore tells how an ancient Maui chief would request breadfruit, his favorite fruit, be picked on the far eastern side of Maui and brought to his home on the western side of the island. The harvesters would gather unripe fruit, which would ripen by the time they had reached the area that came to be called "Ulupalakua." Although there is a town several miles south of the AVA called Ulupalakua, the petition provided evidence that the name “Ulupalakua” applies to a region larger than just the town. For example, the Ulupalakua AVA is located on the Ulupalakua Ranch, which the petition states was so named in 1922 to honor the land’s history.

The Ulupalakua area has long been known as suitable for farming. Prior to the 1800's, early agricultural efforts by Hawaiians established fields for taro and sweet potato in the region. In the 1840s, the poi economy started to recede when King Kamehameha III and his advisers argued that an economy of commercial agriculture would be a stronger driver of the island's future. In 1845 Captain Lincoln L. Torbert leased land in Ulupalakua to produce beef, hogs, sheep, sugar, molasses and Irish potatoes. But sugar operations all over the islands faltered as land prices, taxes and competition grew, and in 1856, a retired sea captain, James Makee, bought the Torbert Plantation and changed its name to Rose Ranch. His approach to sugar was successful: For a decade his mill produced 800 or more pounds (360 or more kg) of sugar per year on 1,000 acres (400 ha). Makee had broad ideas: Capitalizing on lovely views, he planted exotic gardens, built cottages, and started what was perhaps Hawaii's first agritourism project - a festive retreat that became popular with royalty from the islands and visitors from around the world. The ranch's next owner, James Isaac Dowsett, who held the property from 1886 to 1900, improved the cattle herd by bringing Aberdeen Angus stock to the islands. Dowsett sold to Dr. James M. Raymond, who in 1922 sold to Frank Baldwin, the grandson of Maui's first Christian missionaries. Baldwin renamed the place Ulupalakua Ranch. Today's operation began in 1963 when C. Pardee Erdman bought from the Baldwins. The Erdman family revived Makee's enterprising spirit, but in a different direction, developing the property into a favorite destination for both travelers and locals.Modern agricultural began on what is now Ulupalakua Ranch lands in 1845, that era lasting until 1856 when Linton L. Torbert, active member of the Royal Hawaiian Agricultural Society, farmed potatoes and corn, primarily to supply island merchant ships and to ship to California to fuel that region's "gold rush" era and on direction from King Kamehameha III planted sugar cane. For three decades (1856-1886), ex-whaling captain, James Makee farmed sugar cane and other crops. This early entrepreneur even planted cotton to take advantage of the Union blockade of southern ports during the Civil War.

Viticulture in Hawaii and on Maui has roots back into the early 1800's when with "... cuttings from plants brought to Oahu by Spanish horticulturist, Don Francisco de Paula Marin, Portuguese settlers with a sense of adventure and an obvious love of the fermented grape, established small vineyards and wineries on Maui and Hawaii...". He established Hawaii's first grape vineyard in 1815, and produced wine with a small crop quoted to have produced 38 US gal (140 L; 32 imp gal) and an increase to 1,330 US gal (5,000 L; 1,110 imp gal) in 1826. Pre-Prohibtion wineries were established and reference the use of grapes grown on Maui. One winery continued production in Hawaii on the island of Maui into the post-Prohibition era, but when the price of beef increased, the vineyards were pulled out for the use of grazing lands. In the 1970's, interest was resumed as Emil Tedeschi and the new owners of the Ulupalakua Ranch, the Erdman's, decided to plant vineyards. Experiments with the help of U.C. Davis explored over 150 varieties and several years of research. Graham Hornel Pata declared "(t)here's a little bit of Australia, of India and of California up there on the southwest slopes of Maui's magical mountain, the Haleakala volcano...". Emil Tedeschi quoted "the similarities between Napa and Ulupalakua.

Terroir

Topography

The Ulupalakua AVA contains a series of four distinct benches that are oriented to the southwest. The benches are gently sloped, with slope angles between 0 and 5 percent, and are separated by more steeply sloped erosional ravines. The petition states that the gentle slopes of the benches minimize the risk of erosion and facilitate safe agriculture. The open, less steep terrain also allows vineyards planted on the benches to receive uniform amounts of sunlight, rainfall, and temperature-moderating cloud cover. The AVA is surrounded in each direction by more steeply sloped, mountainous terrain. To the west and east of the AVA, the slope angles average 17 percent. To the north and south of the AVA, slope angles average about 15 percent. The regions to the north and west also contain more erosional features, such as ravines, that are less suited for viticulture than the benches of the AVA. The region to the south of the AVA features another ravine comprised of rugged exposed volcanic rocks, which are not well-suited for viticulture.

Climate

The petition states that although most people would consider Hawaii to be hot, the Ulupalakua AVA is cool due to its elevation and proximity to the 10,000-foot (3,000 m) Mt. Haleakala. The AVA sits at elevations between 1,560 and 1,850 ft (480–560 m) above sea level. The petition states that temperatures in Maui typically drop 3.5 °F (−15.8 °C) for every 1,000 feet of elevation gained. a 2003article about Maui Wines notes that "mornings and late afternoons tend to be cool at these elevations...." The petition provided information on the average monthly high and low temperatures, as well as the monthly highest and lowest recorded temperatures for the AVA and the region to the north. Temperature data was not provided for the regions to the east, west, or south. The data shows that the Ulupalakua AVA has generally mild temperatures, with a 20 °F (−7 °C) or less difference between the average high and average low temperatures for any given month. The average monthly low temperatures and lowest recorded monthly temperatures within the AVA do not drop below 50 °F (10 °C), which is generally considered to be the minimum temperature required for vine growth and fruit development. By contrast, Kēōkea which is located to the north of the proposed AVA and at higher elevations, recorded substantially lower temperatures than the AVA for each category, including temperatures below 50 °F (10 °C). According to the petition, the lack of extremes in temperatures within the AVA protect ripening fruit against sunburn and heat stress. The petition also included information on the average monthly precipitation amounts for the Ulupalakua AVA and the regions to the east and west. Precipitation amounts were not provided for the regions to the south and north. The Ulupalakua AVA receives substantially more precipitation than the region to the west and less than the region to the east. The differences in rainfall are due to the orographic effects of Mt. Haleakala. As the moist air moves from east to west over the mountain, locations at higher elevations, such as Polipoli Springs, receive more rainfall than regions at lower elevations, such as Makena Bay on the coast. Ulupalakua, which is located at elevations higher than Makena Bay and lower than Polipoli Springs, receives almost twice as much annual rainfall as the lower location and over half as much as the higher location. The petition states that the lower rainfall amounts within the AVA, particularly during the harvest season of June through August, reduce the risk of mildew and rot.

Soils

Soils within the Ulupalakua AVA formed from the erosion of ancient alkali [[lava flows]] from Mt. Haleakala. The most prominent soil within the AVA is Kula loam, which makes up 80 percent of the soil. Kula loam is derived from weathered basic igneous rock and is well-drained and moderately rapid in permeability. The top soil is typically 8 inches (20 cm) deep, with subsoils reaching around 4 feet (1.2 m) before hitting bedrock of andesite and basalt. The remaining 20 percent of the soil is comprised of the Io series. Soils of this series are silt loams that gradually acquire more clay deeper in the soil. The top soil is about 10 inches (25 cm), and subsoils reach basalt and andesite bedrock at around 4 feet (1.2 m). The petition states that the soils of the AVA are fertile enough to produce healthy vines and fruit without promoting excessive vine and leaf growth. Additionally, the uniformity of the soils within the AVA results in a greater consistency in growing conditions for vineyards than can be found in the surrounding regions. To the south of the Ulupalakua AVA, the soil changes to Kula very rocky loam. This soil consist of very large volcanic rocks and boulders which would not be suitable for vineyards. To the west is a continuation of the same Kula loam that is found in the AVA. However, the petition notes that the top soil in this region has been scoured by erosion and thus would be thinner and not as suitable for viticulture as the Kula loam soils of the AVA. The petition did not provide information on the soils to the north and east of the proposed AVA.

External links

• TTB AVA Map