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Émile Rey

italienischer Bergsteiger und Bergführer
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birth_date = August 1846
birth_place = La Saxe, Courmayeur, Kingdom of Sardinia
death_date = Vorlage:Death date and age
death_place = Dent du Géant, France
occupation = Mountain guide, joiner, carpenter
knownfor = First ascents around Courmayeur
firstascents = Aiguille Noire de Peuterey, Peuterey Ridge, Aiguille Blanche de Peuterey, Aiguille de Talèfre
updated = 19 December 2015

Émile Rey (* August 1846 in La Saxe nahe Courmayeur in Savoyen, damals Königreich Sardinien; † 24. August 1895 am Dent du Géant in Frankreich) war ein Bergführer aus dem italienischen Aostatal.

Émily Rey

Rey galt in seiner Zeit als „Prinz" der Bergführer in der Umgebung von Courmayeur. Er war Ende des 19. Jahrhunderts einer der am meisten anerkannten und respektierten Bergführer seiner Region. Dies, weil er Erstbesteigungen in den höchsten und schwierigste Bergen im Mont-Blanc-Massiv der Alpen erfolgreich bewältigte.[1] Er gilt als einer der ganz Grossen unter den Bergführern seiner Zeit ("one of the greatest guides of his generation.")[2][3]:125

Biografie

Émile Rey kam in La Saxe, einer Fraktion des Dorfes Courmayeur, zur Welt, wo er auch zeit seines Lebens wohnte.[1] Sein gelernter Beruf war Schreiner (menuisier (joiner*1* or carpenter*2*), und er wirkte am Bau verschiedener Berghütten mii. Diese zu wurden gerne von Alpinisten umd Alpinistinnen benutzt mitbdem Ziel, am besten zu den höchsten Berggipfeln zu gelangen. Zu diesen Hütten zählte diejenige beim Grand Paradis, Col du Géant, Aiguilles Grises and Grandes Jorasses.[4]:133


Reys Karriere als Bergführer begann erst, als das Goldene Zeitalter des Alpinismus schon vorbei war. Anders als seine Zeitgenossen erwarb und entwickelte er seine Kompetenzen und Fertigkeiten (crafts) nicht etwa dadurch, dass er bei einem älteren, erfahrenen Bergführer in die Lehre gegangen wäre und diesem gedient hätte. In seinem Buch "Pioneers of the Alps" (1888) hält der britische Bergsteiger-[4]:133Vorlage:Quote

Rey musste 30 Jahre alt werden, bis er endlich ein Angebot für ein längerfristiges Engagement als Bergführer bekam, und zwar von Lord Wentworth. Dieser verpflichtete ihn für den grössten Teil der Bergsteigersaison 1876 sowie für die beiden nachfolgenden Jahre (climbing season). 1877 gelang ihm, zusammen mit Lord Wentworth (dem Enkel von George Gordon Byron) und Jean Baptiste Bich, die Erstbesteigung der Aiguille Noire de Peuterey. Zusammen bewältigten sie weitere respektable Erstbesteigungen, u.a. des Les Jumeaux in Valtournanche. Allerdings verdankte er seinen Ruf als einen der talentiertesten und waghalsigsten Profikletterer überhaupt in der Alpenregion zwei andern Klienten, nämlich J. Baumann und John Oakley Maund. Nicht jeder ihrer Versuche, neue und anspruchsvolle Routen zu erschliessen, war erfolgreich. So scheiterten sie etwa beim Versuch, von Plan des Aiguilles zur Aiguille du Plan zu gelangen.[4]:132

Another unsuccessful, but nevertheless very bold early attempt took place in 1881 when J. Baumann, Rey, and his two fellow guides, Johann Juan and J. Maurer, attempted to climb the Eiger's Mittellegi ridge. They were thwarted by the difficult big step on that ridge which is nowadays adorned with a fixed rope strung from it, and which was finally climbed for the first time in 1925. Referring to their unsuccessful attempt, J. Baumann wrote about his guide's efforts:[4]:132Vorlage:Quote

 
The Mittellegi ridge on the Eiger

Rey's first major achievement as a mountaineer and guide came in 1877 when he successfully made the first ever ascent of the Aiguille Noire de Peuterey.[5] Thereafter, Mont Blanc became an important venue for his mountaineering exploits, and he had many regular wealthy clients from across Europe, including Elizabeth Alice Hawkins-Whitshed,[3] Paul Güßfeldt[6]:194 and Luigi Amedeo di Savoia-Aosta.[7]

In 1882, Rey was leader of a team that retrieved the bodies of Francis Maitland Balfour and his guide Johann Petrus, who together had attempted to make the first ascent of the Aiguille Blanche de Peuterey. Balfour had invited Rey to join his party, but Rey declined, considering the snow to be in a dangerous condition.[8] It was to be another three years later before Rey was involved in the first successful attempt to reach its summit.[5]:133

Commenting in the Alpine Journal on the series of audacious first ascents and new routes that had recently taken place on the Aiguille Blanche de Peuterey, the soldier and mountaineer, John Percy Farrar, who was later to become president of the Alpine Club, noted:[9]Vorlage:Quote

Rey was married to Faustina Vercelin[10] and had sons Adolphe and Henri, the eldest, and a grandson, Emile. He was evidently very proud of his children.[11]:36 Adolphe Rey (1878–1969) went on to become a mountain guide like his father.

Erstbesteigungen

He made more than a dozen first ascents, including:

  • 1877: First ascent of the Aiguille Noire de Peuterey with Lord Wentworth (the grandson of George Gordon Byron) and Jean Baptiste Bich on 5 August.[12][13]:89
  • 1879: First ascent of the Aiguille de Talèfre (3730 m) with Johan Baumann, F. J. Cullinan, G. Fitzgerald, Joseph Moser and Laurent Lanier on 25 August.[13]:189
  • 1880: First ascent of the Col de Peuterey with Georg Gruber and Pierre Revel, the Freney, August 13.[14]
  • 1882: First ascent of the Calotte de Rochefort, the main summit of Les Périades*3*, with C. D. Cunningham.[4]
  • 1883: First ascent of the Lower Peak of the Aiguille du Midi, with C. D. Cunningham.[4]
  • 1885: First ascent of the Aiguille Blanche de Peuterey with Henry Seymour King and guides Ambros Supersaxo and Alois Andenmatten on 31 July.[13]:85
  • 1887: First traverse of the Grand Dru to the Petit Dru with Henri Dunod and François Simond on 31 August.[15]:227
  • 1888: First winter traverse of Mont Blanc from the Italian side, with Alessandro, Corradino, Erminio and Vittorio Sella, Joseph Jean-Baptiste and Daniele Maquignaz and Giuseppe Maquignaz and two porters. They went from the Aiguilles Grises, cutting many steps in the Bosses Ridge to reach the summit, and then descended to the Grand Mulets, on 5 January. It was later described as a "very remarkable and daring enterprise".[16]
  • 1888: New route to Mont Blanc by the Aiguille de Bionnassay east ridge with Katharine Richardson und Jean Baptiste Bich on 13 August.[13]:51
  • 1889: First traverse from Petit Dru to the Aiguille du Dru with Katharine Richardson and Jean Baptiste Bich on 30 August (with assistance from guides positioned at Grand Dru).[15]:227
  • 1890: Castor North Face (in descent) with Katharine Richardson and Jean Baptiste Bich.[6]:116
  • 1893: First ascent of Mont Blanc by the Aiguille Blanche and the Peuterey Ridge with Paul Güßfeldt, Christian Klucker and Cesar Ollier. Four-day climb from 14 to 17 August.[6]:194
  • 1895: Mont Maudit NW Ridge, via Col du Mont Maudit. First climbed (in descent) with George Morse, after a celebratory 50th birthday ascent for Rey of Mont Blanc, on 21 August. He was killed three days later.[6]:215[13]:97

Other significant ascents with which Rey was involved include:

  • 1879: Second ascent of the Grand Dru.[17]
  • The third, fourth, and fifth ascents of the higher peak of the Dru over four consecutive days. One of these ascents, with W. E. Davidson, was made direct from Montenvert without an overnight stop beforehand. It was also made totally unaided by fixed ropes or ladders, a feat that impressed the first ascensionist, Clinton Thomas Dent, who had spent innumerable hours on the route.[4]:132
  • On 16 August 1892 he made the first ascent of the 'variant Güssfeldt', marking the fourth ascent of the Brenva ridge route onto Mont Blanc, with Paul Güßfeldt, Laurent Croux and Michel Savoye. During this ascent Gussfeldt's ice axe fell into the dangerous couloir which nowadays bears his name.[18]
  • 1877: First traverse of the Grands Charmoz
  • Gran Paradiso from the glacier of the Tribulation.
  • Dent d’Hérens to the crest Tiefenmatten.

Travels abroad

In the winter of 1884 Rey travelled to Britain where he spent some weeks with alpine mountaineer C. D. Cunningham in England. His trip included an intellectual afternoon visit to Madame Tussaud's in the company of the editor of the Nineteenth Century*4* literary magazine and a visit to Schottland where on 11 February after a spell of bad weather, Rey, Cunningham and a local man, John Cameron, made a winter ascent to the top of Ben Nevis. At the summit they visited the new observatory which had been opened just a few months earlier, and enjoyed hot steaming coffee and toasted Schiffs Zwieback in the company of the observer and his two assistants.[19] Cunningham later observed that Rey was known to have referred to their trip up Ben Nevis more frequently than some of his other great achievements in the Alps.[4]:133 Whilst in Scotland Rey also visited Edinburgh where he went to the top of Arthur’s Seats, local tradition stating that before doing so he estimated it would take much of the day to achieve.[20]

Rey is known to have spent a winter in Meiringen in order to learn German so that, as a leading guide himself, he would be better equipped to work with some of the top Swiss guides such as Andreas Maurer whose mountaineering skills he much admired. He knew they would constantly come into contact with one another, and that this would better help him work together with the Oberland guide.[4]:133

Personality

Rey was known to have always kept himself fit and in condition. He never smoked and was described as always having a temperate manner in whatever he did, and was always courteous – a characteristic which gained him many acquaintances well beyond the usual climbing circles. In the autumn of 1886 Rey was climbing on the Schreckhorn in the Berner Oberland and narrowly avoided being killed in an avalanche. However another guided party some ten minutes behind his was struck by falling ice, and their client, a Herr Munz, was killed, and his guide, Meyer, very severely injured, and subsequently died. Rey took the lead in retrieving Munz's body and taking it back down to Grindlewald. One of the alpine climbers who was with Rey, C.D. Cunningham, later wrote how impressed he was with the "great force of character and power of organisation that Rey displayed". He observed how Rey's ability to take the lead without seeming to take command of his fellow guides provided "the moving spirit of the whole party".[4]:133

Rey has, however, been described as a man who never underestimated his own abilities as a mountain guide, nor did he try to conceal the pride he got from having gained such a good reputation. Writing in 'Pioneers of the Alps (1888) Cunningham, with whom he had made numerous alpine ascents over many years, wrote thus:[4]:134 Vorlage:Quote Cunningham also noted how willing Rey always was to attend to his clients' needs first, rather than his own, whether more immediate needs in the hut following a long and very tiring day, or in being bold on the rock to ensure they would overcome all difficulties to attain their summit. Despite this determination to succeed, he was always prepared to draw the line "when foolhardiness was about to take the place of courage".[4]:134

Writing about his life amongst the high alpine summits, Rey once said: "it is not the earnings that push me up to the peaks, it is the great passion I have for the mountains. I have always considered the payment secondary in my life as a guide."[21]

Survival against the odds

 
The Aiguille du Plan from La Flégère, showing the Glacier du Plan descending from its summit

The account below is extracted almost verbatim from True Tales of Mountain Adventure: For Non-Climbers Young and Old (1903):[22] Vorlage:Quote

Death and legacy

 
The Dent du Géant

Rey was killed in a fall whilst descending the lower, easy rocks at the base of the Dent du Géant on 24 August 1895 with his client, A. Carson Roberts. They were unroped. Roberts subsequently wrote at very great length and detail about the events, suggested that Rey might have fallen because of some malaise which might have led to a "physical seizure" at an inopportune moment Vorlage:Mdash he previously observed that Rey had not been displaying his usual good form or temperament.[11] Another source later suggested the slip might have been "due to excessive and incorrect hobnailing*5* of his boots".[23] On hearing of Rey's death, Luigi Amedeo di Savoia-Aosta was said to have been devastated by the news.[7] Rey was buried in Courmayeur, the form of his gravestone somewhat resembling that of the Dent du Géant, with an ice axe and rope hung over one corner. It bore the following epitaph:

“IN MEMORIA DI EMILIO REY
GUIDA ITALIANA VALENTISSIMA
AMATO DEI SUOI ALPINISTI
IN LUNGA SERIA D’IMPRESE
MAESTRO LORO
DI ARDIMENTI DI PRUDENZA
FATALMENTE CADUTO AL DENTE DEL GIGANTE
IL 24 AGOSTO 1895”[24]

Amongst the wreaths left at his funeral were those from some of the famous names in the annals of alpine mountaineering, including Katharine Richardson, Paul Güßfeldt and C. D. Cunningham, all of whom had climbed with this guide.[1]:232 In a short obituary in the Alpine Journal, Güssfeldt described Rey as "the great guide of Courmayeur [whose death] is generally felt as an irreparable loss".[25]  

Forty years after Rey's death, mountaineer Frank Smythe described him as "the greatest guide of his generation".[2]

Honours

 
The Brouillard ridge, with labels showing the Col Emile Rey and other significant features

The Col Émile Rey (4030 m), located on the Italian side of Mont Blanc (between Mont Brouillard und Picco Luigi Amedeo), is named in Rey's honour.[26] Described as "a superb col in wild surroundings", it can be subject to bad stonefall on both sides. It is not used as a route between adjacent glaciers, but can be used by mountaineers to access the Brouillard Ridge. The first traverse of the Col Émile Rey was made in 1899 by G.B. and G.F. Gugliermina with N. Shiavi, exactly four years to the day after Rey's death.[5]:125

A memorial tablet to Rey, figuring a coiled rope and ice axe, stood in the Piazza Abbé Henry in Courmayeur until at least 1957.[27] It was subsequently replaced with a monument containing a sculpted figure, showing him in a similar pose to that of his photograph, wearing his guide's hat.

It bears the words "Emile Rey, 1846–1895, Prince Des Guides". It stands between monuments to two other alpine guides from Courmayeur, Giuseppe Petigax (1860–1926) and Mario Puchoz (1918–1954).[28][29]

Literatur

Acknowledgement

Portions of the text are from C.D. Cunningham, W. de W. Abney: The Pioneers of the Alps. 2nd Auflage. 1888 (archive.org [abgerufen am 22. November 2015]). which is in the public domain.

Einzelnachweise

  1. ↑ a b c Charles Gos: A Winter’s Day at Courmayeur. In: The Alpine Journal. 49–50. Jahrgang, 1937, S. 232 (org.uk [PDF; abgerufen am 12. November 2015]).
  2. ↑ a b Frank Smythe: A Mountaineering Holiday: An Outstanding Alpine Climbing Season, 1939. TBC Auflage. TBC, 1940, ISBN 978-1-906148-86-7, S. ? (google.com).
  3. ↑ a b The Alpine Club/Royal Geographical Society: The Mountaineers. Dorling Kindersley Limited, 2011, ISBN 978-0-241-19890-2, S. 156 (google.com).
  4. ↑ a b c d e f g h i j k l C.D. Cunningham, W. de W. Abney: The Pioneers of the Alps. 2nd Auflage. 1888 (archive.org [abgerufen am 22. November 2015]).
  5. ↑ a b c Robin Collomb: Mont Blanc Range Volume 1. The Alpine Club, 1976, ISBN 0-900523-20-4, S. 133.
  6. ↑ a b c d Helmut Dumler, Willi P. Burkhardt: The High Mountains of the Alps. 1st Auflage. Diadem, London 1994, ISBN 0-89886-378-3.
  7. ↑ a b Mirella Tenderini, Michael Shandrick: The Duke of the Abruzzi: An Explorer's Life. 1997, ISBN 0-89886-499-2 (google.com).
  8. ↑ Charles Edward Matthews: The Annals of Mt Blanc. L.C.Page & Co., Boston 1900, S. 238 (archive.org [abgerufen am 16. November 2015]).
  9. ↑ H.O. Jones: Some Climbs on the South Side of Mt. Blanc, addendum to. In: The Alpine Journal. 25. Jahrgang, Nr. 192, Mai 1911, S. 520.
  10. ↑ Ritratto di Faustina Vercelin, moglie della famosa guida Emile Rey. In: dimensionmontagne.org. Dimension Mantagne, abgerufen am 19. Dezember 2015.
  11. ↑ a b A. Carson Roberts: Aiguilles: The Tragedy of Emile Rey. In: The Alpine Journal. 48. Jahrgang, Nr. 252, Mai 1936, S. 38 (org.uk [PDF; abgerufen am 12. November 2015]).
  12. ↑ Simon Thompson: Unjustifiable Risk?: The Story of British Climbing. TBC, TBC 2012, ISBN 978-1-85284-627-5 (google.com – [2010]).
  13. ↑ a b c d e Lindsay Griffin: Mont Blanc Massif Volume 1. Alpine Club, London 1990, ISBN 0-900523-57-3.
  14. ↑ Vorlage:Harvnb
  15. ↑ a b Gaston Rébuffat: Mont-Blanc Jardin féerique + Historique des Ascensions du Mont-Blanc, Établi par Alex Lucchesi. Denoël, Paris 1987, ISBN 2-207-23396-0 (französisch, [1962]).
  16. ↑ C.A. Russell: One Hundred Years Ago (With extracts from the Alpine Journal). In: The Alpine Journal. 1988, S. 207–212 (org.uk [PDF; abgerufen am 13. November 2015]).
  17. ↑ C.A. Russel: One hundred years ago (with extracts from the Alpine Journal). In: The Alpine Journal. 1979, S. 204–210.
  18. ↑ C.A. Russell: One Hundred Years Ago (with extracts from the Alpine Journal). In: The Alpine Journal. 97. Jahrgang, 26. November 2015, S. 240 (org.uk [PDF]).
  19. ↑ C.A. Russell: One Hundred Years ago (with extracts from the Alpine Journal). In: The Alpine Journal. 1984, S. 63 (org.uk [PDF; abgerufen am 26. November 2015]).
  20. ↑ T. Graham Brown: Review of .An Epitome of Fifty Years Climbing. In: The Alpine Journal. 45. Jahrgang, Nr. 246, 1933, S. 174–178 (amazonaws.com [PDF; abgerufen am 25. November 2015]).
  21. ↑ Cesare Maestri: Alpine Guides: A Story of Love and Responsibility for the Mountains. In: www.ecodelledolomiti.net. Abgerufen am 26. November 2015.
  22. ↑ Mrs Aubrey Le Blond: True Tales of Mountain Adventure: For Non-Climbers Young and Old. Dutton & Co., New York 1903, S. 45–46 (archive.org [abgerufen am 18. November 2015]).
  23. ↑ Untitled article on history of crampons. In: www.grivel.com. Grivel, abgerufen am 12. November 2015.
  24. ↑ gravestone
  25. ↑ Paul Güßfeldt: Correspondence. Emile Rey. In: Alpine Journal. 17. Jahrgang, 1895, S. 568.
  26. ↑ Col Émile Rey. In: www.camptocamp.org. Abgerufen am 15. November 2015.
  27. ↑ Enrico Rey con il figlio Piero davanti al monumento in memoria di Emile Rey. In: dimensionmontagne.org. Dimension Montagne, abgerufen am 19. Dezember 2015.
  28. ↑ Emile Rey e Mario Puchoz, Courmayeur. In: www.flickr.com. Roberto Figueredo Simonetti, abgerufen am 19. Dezember 2015.
  29. ↑ Courmayeur, Giuseppe Petigax & Emile Rey 2015. In: www.summitpost.org. SummitPost, abgerufen am 19. Dezember 2015.


Kategorie:Geboren 1846 Kategorie:Gestorben 1895 Kategorie:Bergsteiger (Italien) Kategorie:Bergführer

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