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2018 IFSC Climbing World Cup

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2018 IFSC Climbing World Cup
SportClimbing
Organizer(s)IFSC
Edition30th
Locations
14
Events
22
  • 7 Boulder
    7 Lead
    8 Speed
Date13 April – 28 October 2018
Men
BoulderingSlovenia Jernej Kruder
LeadAustria Jakob Schubert
SpeedFrance Bassa Mawem
CombinedAustria Jakob Schubert
Women
BoulderingJapan Miho Nonaka
LeadSlovenia Janja Garnbret
SpeedFrance Anouck Jaubert
CombinedSlovenia Janja Garnbret
National Teams
BoulderingJapan Japan
LeadAustria Austria
SpeedRussia Russian Federation
2017
2019

The 2018 IFSC Climbing World Cup was held in 14 locations. Bouldering and lead competitions were each held in 7 locations, speed in 8 locations. The season began on 13 April in Meiringen, Switzerland, and concluded on 28 October in Xiamen, China.

The top 3 in each competition received medals, and the overall winners were awarded trophies. At the end of the season an overall ranking was determined based upon points, which athletes were awarded for finishing in the top 30 of each individual event.

The winners for bouldering were Jernej Kruder and Miho Nonaka, for lead Jakob Schubert and Janja Garnbret, for speed Bassa Mawem and Anouck Jaubert, and for combined Jakob Schubert and Janja Garnbret, men and women respectively. The National Team for bouldering was Japan, for lead Austria, and for speed Russian Federation.

Highlights of the season

In bouldering, at the World Cup in Munich, Janja Garnbret of Slovenia flashed all boulders in the final round to take the win. Miho Nonaka and Akiyo Noguchi, both of Japan, were the only athletes who never missed a podium in all 7 bouldering competitions in the season.

In lead climbing, Janja Garnbret was the only athlete who never missed a podium in all 7 lead competitions in the season.

In speed climbing, at the first Speed World Cup of the season in Moscow, Anouck Jaubert of France matched the world record of 7.32 seconds set by Iuliia Kaplina of Russia at the 2017 World Games in Wroclaw.[1] Then at the end of the season, French athletes, Bassa Mawem and Anouck Jaubert clinched the overall titles of the season for men and women respectively, making it double speed titles for France.

Changes from the previous season

For the 2018 season the IFSC changed the scoring method for its tournaments. Previously in bouldering, topped boulders were the deciding factor, followed as tiebreakers in decreasing order of importance: attempts to tops, bonus holds (renamed to zones), and attempts to bonus holds. The first and second tiebreakers switched places which means that the results were determined by tops, zones, attempts to tops, and attempts to zones.[2] Also athletes now need to demonstrate firm control of the two starting hand holds. Previously touching all four marked start points in any manner was deemed sufficient to start an attempt.[3]

Overview

No. Location D G Gold Silver Bronze
1 Switzerland Meiringen
13 – 14 April 2018
B M Slovenia Jernej Kruder Japan Tomoa Narasaki Russia Alexey Rubtsov
W Japan Miho Nonaka Slovenia Janja Garnbret Japan Akiyo Noguchi
2 Russia Moscow
21 – 22 April 2018
B M Japan Tomoa Narasaki Slovenia Jernej Kruder Slovenia Gregor Vezonik
W Slovenia Janja Garnbret Japan Miho Nonaka Japan Akiyo Noguchi
S M Iran Reza Alipour Russia Vladislav Deulin Indonesia Veddriq Leonardo
W France Anouck Jaubert Russia Iuliia Kaplina Russia Elena Timofeeva
3 China Chongqing
5 – 6 May 2018
B M Japan Kokoro Fujii Canada Sean McColl Russia Alexey Rubtsov
W Japan Akiyo Noguchi Japan Miho Nonaka Serbia Stasa Gejo
S M Russia Dmitrii Timofeev Indonesia Aspar Jaelolo Ukraine Danyil Boldyrev
W Indonesia Aries Susanti Rahayu Russia Elena Timofeeva Indonesia Puji Lestari
4 China Tai'an
12 – 13 May 2018
B M Israel Alex Khazanov Slovenia Jernej Kruder Slovenia Gregor Vezonik
W Japan Akiyo Noguchi Japan Miho Nonaka France Fanny Gibert
S M France Bassa Mawem Indonesia Sabri Sabri Russia Dmitrii Timofeev
W France Anouck Jaubert Indonesia Sari Agustina Indonesia Aries Susanti Rahayu
5 Japan Hachioji
2 – 3 June 2018
B M Italy Gabriele Moroni Japan Tomoa Narasaki Japan Rei Sugimoto
W Japan Akiyo Noguchi Japan Miho Nonaka Russia Ekaterina Kipriianova
6 United States Vail
8 – 9 June 2018
B M Japan Rei Sugimoto United States Sean Bailey Japan Tomoa Narasaki
W United States Alex Puccio Japan Miho Nonaka Japan Akiyo Noguchi
7 Switzerland Villars
6 – 7 July 2018
L M Austria Jakob Schubert France Romain Desgranges Japan Tomoa Narasaki
W Slovenia Janja Garnbret Austria Jessica Pilz South Korea Jain Kim
S M Russia Aleksandr Shikov Russia Aleksandr Shilov Ukraine Danyil Boldyrev
W France Anouck Jaubert France Victoire Andrier Russia Mariia Krasavina
8 France Chamonix
11 – 13 July 2018
L M Italy Stefano Ghisolfi Austria Jakob Schubert Germany Alex Megos
W Austria Jessica Pilz Slovenia Janja Garnbret South Korea Jain Kim
S M Ukraine Danyil Boldyrev Russia Dmitrii Timofeev France Bassa Mawem
W Poland Aleksandra Rudzinska Russia Anna Tsyganova Russia Mariia Krasavina
9 France Briancon
20 – 21 July 2018
L M Germany Alex Megos France Romain Desgranges Slovenia Domen Škofic
W Slovenia Janja Garnbret Austria Jessica Pilz Belgium Anak Verhoeven
10 Italy Arco
27 – 28 July 2018
L M Austria Jakob Schubert Italy Stefano Ghisolfi Slovenia Domen Škofic
W Slovenia Janja Garnbret Austria Jessica Pilz Belgium Anak Verhoeven
S M Ukraine Danyil Boldyrev Russia Aleksandr Shilov Iran Reza Alipour
W Russia Iuliia Kaplina Russia Mariia Krasavina France Anouck Jaubert
11 Germany Munich
17 – 18 August 2018
B M Slovenia Gregor Vezonik Slovenia Jernej Kruder Austria Jakob Schubert
W Slovenia Janja Garnbret Japan Miho Nonaka Japan Akiyo Noguchi
12 Slovenia Kranj
29 – 30 September 2018
L M Italy Stefano Ghisolfi Austria Jakob Schubert Japan Masahiro Higuchi
W South Korea Jain Kim Slovenia Janja Garnbret Austria Hannah Schubert
13 China Wujiang
20 – 21 October 2018
L M France Romain Desgranges Austria Jakob Schubert South Korea Hyunbin Min
W Slovenia Janja Garnbret
South Korea Jain Kim
Austria Jessica Pilz
S M Indonesia Aspar Jaelolo Italy Ludovico Fossali Iran Reza Alipour
W Indonesia Aries Susanti Rahayu France Anouck Jaubert Russia Iuliia Kaplina
14 China Xiamen
27 – 28 October 2018
L M Slovenia Domen Škofic Italy Stefano Ghisolfi South Korea Hyunbin Min
W Austria Jessica Pilz Slovenia Janja Garnbret Japan Akiyo Noguchi
S M France Bassa Mawem Indonesia Aspar Jaelolo Iran Reza Alipour
W Indonesia Aries Susanti Rahayu Russia Iuliia Kaplina France Anouck Jaubert
OVERALL B M Slovenia Jernej Kruder Japan Tomoa Narasaki Japan Rei Sugimoto
W Japan Miho Nonaka Japan Akiyo Noguchi France Fanny Gibert
L M Austria Jakob Schubert Italy Stefano Ghisolfi France Romain Desgranges
Slovenia Domen Škofic
W Slovenia Janja Garnbret Austria Jessica Pilz South Korea Jain Kim
S M France Bassa Mawem Ukraine Danyil Boldyrev Russia Dmitrii Timofeev
W France Anouck Jaubert Indonesia Aries Susanti Rahayu Russia Iuliia Kaplina
C M Austria Jakob Schubert Japan Tomoa Narasaki Japan Kokoro Fujii
W Slovenia Janja Garnbret Japan Akiyo Noguchi Japan Miho Nonaka
NATIONAL TEAMS B A Japan Japan Slovenia Slovenia France France
L A Austria Austria Japan Japan Slovenia Slovenia
S A Russia Russian Federation Indonesia Indonesia France France

Bouldering

An overall ranking was determined based upon points, which athletes were awarded for finishing in the top 30 of each individual event. There were seven competitions in the season, but only the best six attempts were counted. The national ranking was the sum of the points of that country's three best male and female athletes. Results displayed (in brackets) were not counted.

Men

The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Bouldering World Cup 2018:[4]

Rank Name Points Munich Vail Hachioji Tai'an Chongqing Moscow Meiringen
1 Slovenia Jernej Kruder 442.00 2. 80.00 4. 55.00 8. (38.00) 2. 80.00 6. 47.00 2. 80.00 1. 100.00
2 Japan Tomoa Narasaki 400.00 9. 35.00 3. 65.00 2. 80.00 8. 40.00 11. (31.00) 1. 100.00 2. 80.00
3 Japan Rei Sugimoto 334.00 8. 40.00 1. 100.00 3. 65.00 4. 55.00 12. (28.00) 10. 34.00 8. 40.00
4 Russia Alexey Rubtsov 296.00 14. (23.00) 9. 37.00 5. 51.00 12. 27.00 3. 65.00 5. 51.00 3. 65.00
5 Slovenia Gregor Vezonik 280.00 1. 100.00 14. 24.00 - 3. 65.00 13. 26.00 3. 65.00 -
6 Japan Kokoro Fujii 260.00 7. 43.00 18. (16.00) 16. 20.00 5. 51.00 1. 100.00 17. 18.00 12. 28.00
7 South Korea Jongwon Chon 247.00 - 7. 43.00 4. 55.00 6. 47.00 - 4. 55.00 6. 47.00
8 Japan Tomoaki Takata 218.00 17. 18.00 6. 47.00 11. 31.00 10. 34.00 25. (5.00) 9. 37.00 5. 51.00
9 Japan Yuji Fujiwaki 207.00 5. 51.00 8. 40.00 13. 26.00 11. 31.00 15. 22.00 28. (3.00) 9. 37.00
9 Austria Jakob Schubert 207.00 3. 65.00 - - 12. 27.00 4. 55.00 25. 5.00 4. 55.00

Women

The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Bouldering World Cup 2018:[5]

Rank Name Points Munich Vail Hachioji Tai'an Chongqing Moscow Meiringen
1 Japan Miho Nonaka 500.00 2. 80.00 2. 80.00 2. 80.00 2. 80.00 2. 80.00 2. (80.00) 1. 100.00
2 Japan Akiyo Noguchi 495.00 3. 65.00 3. 65.00 1. 100.00 1. 100.00 1. 100.00 3. 65.00 3. (65.00)
3 France Fanny Gibert 320.00 4. 55.00 4. 55.00 7. 43.00 3. 65.00 8. (40.00) 5. 51.00 5. 51.00
4 Slovenia Janja Garnbret 280.00 1. 100.00 - - - - 1. 100.00 2. 80.00
5 Slovenia Katja Kadic 246.00 5. 51.00 23. (7.00) 11. 31.00 7. 43.00 6. 47.00 10. 34.00 8. 40.00
6 Serbia Stasa Gejo 222.00 - - 4. 55.00 4. 55.00 3. 65.00 15. 22.00 13. 25.00
7 Russia Ekaterina Kipriianova 210.00 6. 47.00 - 3. 65.00 10. 34.00 4. 55.00 21. 9.00 -
8 Japan Futaba Ito 179.00 7. 43.00 - 6. 47.00 13. 26.00 16. 20.00 8. 40.00 27. 3.00
9 United Kingdom Shauna Coxsey 174.00 - 7. 43.00 9. 37.00 - - 6. 47.00 6. 47.00
10 Germany Alma Bestvater 168.00 12. 28.00 6. 47.00 5. 51.00 23. 7.00 12. 28.00 23. 7.00 -

National Teams

The results of the ten most successful countries of the Bouldering World Cup 2018:[6]

Country names as used by the IFSC

Rank Nation Points Munich Vail Hachioji Tai'an Chongqing Moscow Meiringen
1 Japan Japan 2269 (337) 387 419 363 371 362 367
2 Slovenia Slovenia 1344 345 (108) 109 208 139 310 233
3 France France 823 163 (91) 102 111 197 93 157
4 Austria Austria 735 173 61 (22) 110 154 64 173
5 Russia Russian Federation 591 85 (37) 144 101 121 72 68
6 Germany Germany 534 103 143 69 58 112 49 (27)
7 United States United States of America 503 15 284 86 57 9 (3) 52
8 South Korea Republic of Korea 418 0 81 75 89 - 98 75
9 United Kingdom Great Britain 366 21 74 101 30 (19) 47 93
10 Italy Italy 269 22 (1) 139 24 7 48 29

Lead

An overall ranking was determined based upon points, which athletes were awarded for finishing in the top 30 of each individual event.

Men

6 best competition results were counted (not counting points in brackets) for IFSC Climbing Worldcup 2018.[7]

Rank Name Points Xiamen Wujiang Kranj Arco Briancon Chamonix Villars
1 Austria Jakob Schubert 495.00 16. (20.00) 2. 80.00 2. 80.00 1. 100.00 4. 55.00 2. 80.00 1. 100.00
2 Italy Stefano Ghisolfi 466.00 2. 80.00 5. 51.00 1. 100.00 2. 80.00 5. (51.00) 1. 100.00 4. 55.00
3 France Romain Desgranges 356.00 6. 47.00 1. 100.00 20. 12.00 9. 37.00 2. 80.00 27. (4.00) 2. 80.00
3 Slovenia Domen Skofic 356.00 1. 100.00 19. (14.00) 12. 28.00 3. 65.00 3. 65.00 4. 55.00 7. 43.00
5 South Korea Hyunbin Min 251.00 3. 65.00 3. 65.00 - 8. 40.00 17. 18.00 18. 16.00 6. 47.00
6 Germany Alexander Megos 230.00 - - - 12. 28.00 1. 100.00 3. 65.00 9. 37.00
7 Japan Taisei Homma 217.00 5. 51.00 8. 40.00 13. 26.00 - 9. 37.00 7. 43.00 16. 20.00
8 Switzerland Sascha Lehmann 206.00 8. 40.00 17. 18.00 25. (6.00) 6. 47.00 7. 43.00 8. 40.00 17. 18.00
9 Japan Yuki Hada 192.00 7. 43.00 20. (12.00) 7. 43.00 14. 24.00 12. 28.00 19. 14.00 8. 40.00
10 Italy Francesco Vettorata 168.00 15. 22.00 6. 47.00 6. 47.00 22. 9.00 20. 12.00 11. 31.00 -

Women

6 best competition results were counted (not counting points in brackets) for IFSC Climbing Worldcup 2018.[8]

Rank Name Points Xiamen Wujiang Kranj Arco Briancon Chamonix Villars
1 Slovenia Janja Garnbret 550.00 2. 80.00 1. 90.00 2. 80.00 1. 100.00 1. 100.00 2. (80.00) 1. 100.00
2 Austria Jessica Pilz 505.00 1. 100.00 3. 65.00 4. (55.00) 2. 80.00 2. 80.00 1. 100.00 2. 80.00
3 South Korea Jain Kim 354.00 10. 34.00 1. 90.00 1. 100.00 - - 3. 65.00 3. 65.00
4 France Manon Hily 238.00 14. (24.00) 8. 40.00 11. 31.00 6. 47.00 11. 31.00 10. 34.00 4. 55.00
5 Japan Mei Kotake 228.00 5. 51.00 13. 26.00 9. 37.00 16. 20.00 - 5. 51.00 7. 43.00
6 Slovenia Tjasa Kalan 224.00 7. 43.00 6. 45.00 12. 28.00 9. 37.00 28. (3.00) 9. 37.00 9. 34.00
7 Austria Hannah Schubert 219.00 11. 31.00 9. 37.00 3. 65.00 19. (14.00) 13. 26.00 8. 40.00 16. 20.00
8 Slovenia Mina Markovič 214.00 6. 47.00 22. (9.00) 8. 40.00 10. 34.00 5. 51.00 12. 28.00 19. 14.00
8 Japan Akiyo Noguchi 214.00 3. 65.00 4. 55.00 - - - 7. 43.00 5. 51.00
10 Slovenia Mia Krampl 211.00 4. 55.00 6. 45.00 10. 34.00 - 7. 43.00 21. 10.00 14. 24.00

National Teams

For National Team Ranking, 3 best results per competition and category were counted (not counting results in brackets).[9]

Rank Nation Points Xiamen Wujiang Kranj Arco Briancon Chamonix Villars
1 Austria Austria 1528 230 269 264 250 (218) 232 283
2 Japan Japan 1468 305 246 242 160 (135) 235 280
3 Slovenia Slovenia 1428 282 194 (182) 238 266 210 238
4 France France 959 95 160 (81) 185 251 84 184
5 Italy Italy 822 118 135 202 111 99 157 (55)
6 South Korea Republic of Korea 652 107 177 107 41 (27) 91 129
7 Belgium Belgium 382 80 55 (22) 105 65 47 30
8 United States United States of America 377 15 13 (0) 108 89 105 47
9 Switzerland Suisse 373 40 (18) 67 78 49 71 68
10 Germany Germany 340 - - 23 45 100 111 61

Speed

An overall ranking was determined based upon points, which athletes were awarded for finishing in the top 30 of each individual event.

Men

7 best competition results were counted (not counting points in brackets) for IFSC Climbing World Cup 2018.[10]

Rank Name Points Xiamen Wujiang Arco Chamonix Villars Tai'an Chongqing Moscow
1 France Bassa Mawem 448.00 1. 100.00 9. 37.00 8. 40.00 3. 65.00 4. 55.00 1. 100.00 5. 51.00 -
2 Ukraine Danyil Boldyrev 437.00 14. 24.00 8. 40.00 1. 100.00 1. 100.00 3. 65.00 7. 43.00 3. 65.00 -
3 Russia Dmitrii Timofeev 429.00 4. 55.00 7. 43.00 4. 55.00 2. 80.00 11. 31.00 3. 65.00 1. 100.00 15. (22.00)
4 Iran Reza Alipour 415.00 3. 65.00 3. 65.00 3. 65.00 9. 37.00 8. 40.00 - 7. 43.00 1. 100.00
5 Russia Aleksandr Shilov 358.00 13. 26.00 4. 55.00 2. 80.00 5. 51.00 2. 80.00 10. 34.00 10. 32.00 -
6 Indonesia Aspar Jaelolo 341.00 2. 80.00 1. 100.00 - - - 4. 55.00 2. 80.00 13. 26.00
7 Russia Aleksandr Shikov 289.00 - 16. 20.00 9. 37.00 14. 24.00 1. 100.00 9. 37.00 6. 47.00 14. 24.00
8 Italy Ludovico Fossali 272.00 15. 22.00 2. 80.00 15. 22.00 6. 47.00 17. (18.00) 15. 22.00 10. 32.00 6. 47.00
9 China JinXin Li 254.00 7. 43.00 6. 47.00 - 10. 34.00 6. 47.00 - 4. 55.00 12. 28.00
10 Russia Vladislav Deulin 237.00 5. 51.00 13. 26.00 5. 51.00 - - 21. 9.00 16. 20.00 2. 80.00

Women

7 best competition results were counted (not counting points in brackets) for IFSC Climbing World Cup 2018.[11]

Rank Name Points Xiamen Wujiang Arco Chamonix Villars Tai'an Chongqing Moscow
1 France Anouck Jaubert 550.00 3. 65.00 2. 80.00 3. 65.00 11. (31.00) 1. 100.00 1. 100.00 8. 40.00 1. 100.00
2 Indonesia Aries Susanti Rahayu 420.00 1. 100.00 1. 100.00 - - - 3. 65.00 1. 100.00 4. 55.00
3 Russia Iuliia Kaplina 414.00 2. 80.00 3. 65.00 1. 100.00 13. 26.00 7. 43.00 16. 20.00 16. (20.00) 2. 80.00
4 Russia Mariia Krasavina 402.00 7. 43.00 4. 55.00 2. 80.00 3. 65.00 3. 65.00 7. 43.00 9. (37.00) 5. 51.00
5 Poland Anna Brozek 299.00 8. 40.00 9. 37.00 5. 51.00 7. 43.00 5. 51.00 4. 55.00 15. 22.00 -
6 Russia Elena Timofeeva 298.00 5. 51.00 20. (12.00) 8. 40.00 16. 20.00 17. 18.00 14. 24.00 2. 80.00 3. 65.00
7 Russia Anna Tsyganova 292.00 16. 20.00 6. 47.00 - 2. 80.00 - 6. 47.00 4. 55.00 7. 43.00
8 Russia Elena Remizova 266.00 4. 55.00 18. 16.00 20. (12.00) 6. 47.00 8. 40.00 9. 37.00 6. 47.00 14. 24.00
9 Indonesia Sari Agustina 239.00 9. 37.00 5. 51.00 - - - 2. 80.00 7. 43.00 12. 28.00
10 France Victoire Andrier 235.00 14. 24.00 12. 28.00 13. 26.00 14. 24.00 2. 80.00 15. 22.00 11. 31.00 20. (12.00)

National Teams

For National Team Ranking, 3 best results per competition and category were counted (not counting results in brackets).[12]

Rank Nation Points Xiamen Wujiang Arco Chamonix Villars Tai'an Chongqing Moscow
1 Russia Russian Federation 2448 318 316 406 349 359 (280) 369 331
2 Indonesia Indonesia 1704 328 353 - - - 367 351 305
3 France France 1568 235 176 183 218 312 289 155 (146)
4 China People's Republic of China 1120 191 164 - 189 210 115 192 59
5 Poland Poland 876 106 47 200 234 137 82 70 (44)
6 Italy Italy 710 53 104 131 131 129 (35) 41 121
7 Ukraine Ukraine 688 48 93 135 106 122 89 95 (25)
8 Iran Islamic Republic of Iran 464 81 74 65 37 40 - 43 124
9 United States United States of America 169 0 6 81 18 37 26 1 (0)
10 Czech Republic Czech Republic 167 18 16 43 22 17 - - 51

References

  1. ^ "IFSC Climbing Worldcup (B,S) - Moscow (RUS) 2018". Ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 18 December 2018.
  2. ^ "Starting now: the 2018 IFSC World Cup Season". BMC. 12 April 2018. Retrieved 18 April 2018.
  3. ^ "IFSC Rules Modifications 2018" (PDF). Ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 18 December 2018.
  4. ^ "IFSC Bouldering World Cup 2018 Men OVERALL Ranking". Ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 18 December 2018.
  5. ^ "IFSC Bouldering World Cup 2018 Women OVERALL Ranking". Ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 18 December 2018.
  6. ^ "IFSC Bouldering World Cup 2018 National Team Ranking". Ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 18 December 2018.
  7. ^ "IFSC Lead Climbing World Cup 2018 Men OVERALL Ranking". Ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 18 December 2018.
  8. ^ "IFSC Lead Climbing World Cup 2018 Women OVERALL Ranking". Ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 18 December 2018.
  9. ^ "IFSC Lead Climbing World Cup 2018 National Team Ranking". Ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 18 December 2018.
  10. ^ "IFSC Speed Climbing World Cup 2018 Men OVERALL Ranking". Ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 18 December 2018.
  11. ^ "IFSC Speed Climbing World Cup 2018 Women OVERALL Ranking". Ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 18 December 2018.
  12. ^ "IFSC Speed Climbing World Cup 2018 National Team Ranking". Ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 18 December 2018.