2018 IFSC Climbing World Cup
| 2018 IFSC Climbing World Cup | |
|---|---|
| Location |
|
| Date | 13 April – 28 October 2018 |
| Champions | |
| Men | (L) (B) |
| Women | (L) (B) |
The 2018 IFSC Climbing World Cup was held in 14 locations. Lead and bouldering competitions were held in 7 locations, speed in 8 locations. The season began on 13 April in Meiringen, Switzerland, and concluded on 28 October in Xiamen, China.
The top 3 in each competition received medals, and the overall winners were awarded trophies. At the end of the season an overall ranking was determined based upon points, which athletes were awarded for finishing in the top 30 of each individual event.
The winners for lead were Jakob Schubert and Janja Garnbret, for bouldering Jernej Kruder and Miho Nonaka, for speed Bassa Mawem and Anouck Jaubert, and for combined Jakob Schubert and Janja Garnbret, men and women respectively. The National Team for lead was Austria, for bouldering Japan, and for speed Russian Federation.
Highlights of the season
In lead climbing, Janja Garnbret was the only athlete who never missed a podium in all 7 lead competitions in the season.
In bouldering, at the World Cup in Munich, Janja Garnbret of Slovenia flashed all boulders in the final round to take the win. Miho Nonaka and Akiyo Noguchi, both of Japan, were the only athletes who never missed a podium in all 7 bouldering competitions in the season.
In speed climbing, at the first Speed World Cup of the season in Moscow, Anouck Jaubert of France matched the world record of 7.32 seconds set by Iuliia Kaplina of Russia at the 2017 World Games in Wroclaw.[1] Then at the end of the season, French athletes, Bassa Mawem and Anouck Jaubert clinched the overall titles of the season for men and women respectively, making it double speed titles for France.
Changes from the previous season
For the 2018 season the IFSC changed the scoring method for its tournaments. Previously in bouldering, topped boulders were the deciding factor, followed as tiebreakers in decreasing order of importance: attempts to tops, bonus holds (renamed to zones), and attempts to bonus holds. The first and second tiebreakers switched places which means that the results were determined by tops, zones, attempts to tops, and attempts to zones.[2] Also athletes now need to demonstrate firm control of the two starting hand holds. Previously touching all four marked start points in any manner was deemed sufficient to start an attempt.[3]
Overview
Lead
An overall ranking was determined based upon points, which athletes were awarded for finishing in the top 30 of each individual event.
Men
6 best competition results were counted (not counting points in brackets) for IFSC Climbing Worldcup 2018.[4]
| Rank | Name | Points | Xiamen | Wujiang | Kranj | Arco | Briancon | Chamonix | Villars |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | 495.00 | 16. (20.00) | 2. 80.00 | 2. 80.00 | 1. 100.00 | 4. 55.00 | 2. 80.00 | 1. 100.00 | |
| 2 | 466.00 | 2. 80.00 | 5. 51.00 | 1. 100.00 | 2. 80.00 | 5. (51.00) | 1. 100.00 | 4. 55.00 | |
| 3 | 356.00 | 6. 47.00 | 1. 100.00 | 20. 12.00 | 9. 37.00 | 2. 80.00 | 27. (4.00) | 2. 80.00 | |
| 3 | 356.00 | 1. 100.00 | 19. (14.00) | 12. 28.00 | 3. 65.00 | 3. 65.00 | 4. 55.00 | 7. 43.00 | |
| 5 | 251.00 | 3. 65.00 | 3. 65.00 | - | 8. 40.00 | 17. 18.00 | 18. 16.00 | 6. 47.00 | |
| 6 | 230.00 | - | - | - | 12. 28.00 | 1. 100.00 | 3. 65.00 | 9. 37.00 | |
| 7 | 217.00 | 5. 51.00 | 8. 40.00 | 13. 26.00 | - | 9. 37.00 | 7. 43.00 | 16. 20.00 | |
| 8 | 206.00 | 8. 40.00 | 17. 18.00 | 25. (6.00) | 6. 47.00 | 7. 43.00 | 8. 40.00 | 17. 18.00 | |
| 9 | 192.00 | 7. 43.00 | 20. (12.00) | 7. 43.00 | 14. 24.00 | 12. 28.00 | 19. 14.00 | 8. 40.00 | |
| 10 | 168.00 | 15. 22.00 | 6. 47.00 | 6. 47.00 | 22. 9.00 | 20. 12.00 | 11. 31.00 | - |
Women
6 best competition results were counted (not counting points in brackets) for IFSC Climbing Worldcup 2018.[5]
| Rank | Name | Points | Xiamen | Wujiang | Kranj | Arco | Briancon | Chamonix | Villars |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | 550.00 | 2. 80.00 | 1. 90.00 | 2. 80.00 | 1. 100.00 | 1. 100.00 | 2. (80.00) | 1. 100.00 | |
| 2 | 505.00 | 1. 100.00 | 3. 65.00 | 4. (55.00) | 2. 80.00 | 2. 80.00 | 1. 100.00 | 2. 80.00 | |
| 3 | 354.00 | 10. 34.00 | 1. 90.00 | 1. 100.00 | - | - | 3. 65.00 | 3. 65.00 | |
| 4 | 238.00 | 14. (24.00) | 8. 40.00 | 11. 31.00 | 6. 47.00 | 11. 31.00 | 10. 34.00 | 4. 55.00 | |
| 5 | 228.00 | 5. 51.00 | 13. 26.00 | 9. 37.00 | 16. 20.00 | - | 5. 51.00 | 7. 43.00 | |
| 6 | 224.00 | 7. 43.00 | 6. 45.00 | 12. 28.00 | 9. 37.00 | 28. (3.00) | 9. 37.00 | 9. 34.00 | |
| 7 | 219.00 | 11. 31.00 | 9. 37.00 | 3. 65.00 | 19. (14.00) | 13. 26.00 | 8. 40.00 | 16. 20.00 | |
| 8 | 214.00 | 6. 47.00 | 22. (9.00) | 8. 40.00 | 10. 34.00 | 5. 51.00 | 12. 28.00 | 19. 14.00 | |
| 8 | 214.00 | 3. 65.00 | 4. 55.00 | - | - | - | 7. 43.00 | 5. 51.00 | |
| 10 | 211.00 | 4. 55.00 | 6. 45.00 | 10. 34.00 | - | 7. 43.00 | 21. 10.00 | 14. 24.00 |
National Teams
For National Team Ranking, 3 best results per competition and category were counted (not counting results in brackets).[6]
| Rank | Nation | Points | Xiamen | Wujiang | Kranj | Arco | Briancon | Chamonix | Villars |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | 1528 | 230 | 269 | 264 | 250 | (218) | 232 | 283 | |
| 2 | 1468 | 305 | 246 | 242 | 160 | (135) | 235 | 280 | |
| 3 | 1428 | 282 | 194 | (182) | 238 | 266 | 210 | 238 | |
| 4 | 959 | 95 | 160 | (81) | 185 | 251 | 84 | 184 | |
| 5 | 822 | 118 | 135 | 202 | 111 | 99 | 157 | (55) | |
| 6 | 652 | 107 | 177 | 107 | 41 | (27) | 91 | 129 | |
| 7 | 382 | 80 | 55 | (22) | 105 | 65 | 47 | 30 | |
| 8 | 377 | 15 | 13 | (0) | 108 | 89 | 105 | 47 | |
| 9 | 373 | 40 | (18) | 67 | 78 | 49 | 71 | 68 | |
| 10 | 340 | - | - | 23 | 45 | 100 | 111 | 61 |
Bouldering
An overall ranking was determined based upon points, which athletes were awarded for finishing in the top 30 of each individual event.
Men
6 best competition results were counted (not counting points in brackets) for IFSC Climbing World Cup 2018.[7]
| Rank | Name | Points | Munich | Vail | Hachioji | Tai'an | Chongqing | Moscow | Meiringen |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | 442.00 | 2. 80.00 | 4. 55.00 | 8. (38.00) | 2. 80.00 | 6. 47.00 | 2. 80.00 | 1. 100.00 | |
| 2 | 400.00 | 9. 35.00 | 3. 65.00 | 2. 80.00 | 8. 40.00 | 11. (31.00) | 1. 100.00 | 2. 80.00 | |
| 3 | 334.00 | 8. 40.00 | 1. 100.00 | 3. 65.00 | 4. 55.00 | 12. (28.00) | 10. 34.00 | 8. 40.00 | |
| 4 | 296.00 | 14. (23.00) | 9. 37.00 | 5. 51.00 | 12. 27.00 | 3. 65.00 | 5. 51.00 | 3. 65.00 | |
| 5 | 280.00 | 1. 100.00 | 14. 24.00 | - | 3. 65.00 | 13. 26.00 | 3. 65.00 | - | |
| 6 | 260.00 | 7. 43.00 | 18. (16.00) | 16. 20.00 | 5. 51.00 | 1. 100.00 | 17. 18.00 | 12. 28.00 | |
| 7 | 247.00 | - | 7. 43.00 | 4. 55.00 | 6. 47.00 | - | 4. 55.00 | 6. 47.00 | |
| 8 | 218.00 | 17. 18.00 | 6. 47.00 | 11. 31.00 | 10. 34.00 | 25. (5.00) | 9. 37.00 | 5. 51.00 | |
| 9 | 207.00 | 5. 51.00 | 8. 40.00 | 13. 26.00 | 11. 31.00 | 15. 22.00 | 28. (3.00) | 9. 37.00 | |
| 9 | 207.00 | 3. 65.00 | - | - | 12. 27.00 | 4. 55.00 | 25. 5.00 | 4. 55.00 |
Women
6 best competition results were counted (not counting points in brackets) for IFSC Climbing World Cup 2018.[8]
| Rank | Name | Points | Munich | Vail | Hachioji | Tai'an | Chongqing | Moscow | Meiringen |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | 500.00 | 2. 80.00 | 2. 80.00 | 2. 80.00 | 2. 80.00 | 2. 80.00 | 2. (80.00) | 1. 100.00 | |
| 2 | 495.00 | 3. 65.00 | 3. 65.00 | 1. 100.00 | 1. 100.00 | 1. 100.00 | 3. 65.00 | 3. (65.00) | |
| 3 | 320.00 | 4. 55.00 | 4. 55.00 | 7. 43.00 | 3. 65.00 | 8. (40.00) | 5. 51.00 | 5. 51.00 | |
| 4 | 280.00 | 1. 100.00 | - | - | - | - | 1. 100.00 | 2. 80.00 | |
| 5 | 246.00 | 5. 51.00 | 23. (7.00) | 11. 31.00 | 7. 43.00 | 6. 47.00 | 10. 34.00 | 8. 40.00 | |
| 6 | 222.00 | - | - | 4. 55.00 | 4. 55.00 | 3. 65.00 | 15. 22.00 | 13. 25.00 | |
| 7 | 210.00 | 6. 47.00 | - | 3. 65.00 | 10. 34.00 | 4. 55.00 | 21. 9.00 | - | |
| 8 | 179.00 | 7. 43.00 | - | 6. 47.00 | 13. 26.00 | 16. 20.00 | 8. 40.00 | 27. 3.00 | |
| 9 | 174.00 | - | 7. 43.00 | 9. 37.00 | - | - | 6. 47.00 | 6. 47.00 | |
| 10 | 168.00 | 12. 28.00 | 6. 47.00 | 5. 51.00 | 23. 7.00 | 12. 28.00 | 23. 7.00 | - |
National Teams
For National Team Ranking, 3 best results per competition and category were counted (not counting results in brackets).[9]
Country names as used by the IFSC
| Rank | Nation | Points | Munich | Vail | Hachioji | Tai'an | Chongqing | Moscow | Meiringen |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | 2269 | (337) | 387 | 419 | 363 | 371 | 362 | 367 | |
| 2 | 1344 | 345 | (108) | 109 | 208 | 139 | 310 | 233 | |
| 3 | 823 | 163 | (91) | 102 | 111 | 197 | 93 | 157 | |
| 4 | 735 | 173 | 61 | (22) | 110 | 154 | 64 | 173 | |
| 5 | 591 | 85 | (37) | 144 | 101 | 121 | 72 | 68 | |
| 6 | 534 | 103 | 143 | 69 | 58 | 112 | 49 | (27) | |
| 7 | 503 | 15 | 284 | 86 | 57 | 9 | (3) | 52 | |
| 8 | 418 | 0 | 81 | 75 | 89 | - | 98 | 75 | |
| 9 | 366 | 21 | 74 | 101 | 30 | (19) | 47 | 93 | |
| 10 | 269 | 22 | (1) | 139 | 24 | 7 | 48 | 29 |
Speed
An overall ranking was determined based upon points, which athletes were awarded for finishing in the top 30 of each individual event.
Men
7 best competition results were counted (not counting points in brackets) for IFSC Climbing World Cup 2018.[10]
| Rank | Name | Points | Xiamen | Wujiang | Arco | Chamonix | Villars | Tai'an | Chongqing | Moscow |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | 448.00 | 1. 100.00 | 9. 37.00 | 8. 40.00 | 3. 65.00 | 4. 55.00 | 1. 100.00 | 5. 51.00 | - | |
| 2 | 437.00 | 14. 24.00 | 8. 40.00 | 1. 100.00 | 1. 100.00 | 3. 65.00 | 7. 43.00 | 3. 65.00 | - | |
| 3 | 429.00 | 4. 55.00 | 7. 43.00 | 4. 55.00 | 2. 80.00 | 11. 31.00 | 3. 65.00 | 1. 100.00 | 15. (22.00) | |
| 4 | 415.00 | 3. 65.00 | 3. 65.00 | 3. 65.00 | 9. 37.00 | 8. 40.00 | - | 7. 43.00 | 1. 100.00 | |
| 5 | 358.00 | 13. 26.00 | 4. 55.00 | 2. 80.00 | 5. 51.00 | 2. 80.00 | 10. 34.00 | 10. 32.00 | - | |
| 6 | 341.00 | 2. 80.00 | 1. 100.00 | - | - | - | 4. 55.00 | 2. 80.00 | 13. 26.00 | |
| 7 | 289.00 | - | 16. 20.00 | 9. 37.00 | 14. 24.00 | 1. 100.00 | 9. 37.00 | 6. 47.00 | 14. 24.00 | |
| 8 | 272.00 | 15. 22.00 | 2. 80.00 | 15. 22.00 | 6. 47.00 | 17. (18.00) | 15. 22.00 | 10. 32.00 | 6. 47.00 | |
| 9 | 254.00 | 7. 43.00 | 6. 47.00 | - | 10. 34.00 | 6. 47.00 | - | 4. 55.00 | 12. 28.00 | |
| 10 | 237.00 | 5. 51.00 | 13. 26.00 | 5. 51.00 | - | - | 21. 9.00 | 16. 20.00 | 2. 80.00 |
Women
7 best competition results were counted (not counting points in brackets) for IFSC Climbing World Cup 2018.[11]
| Rank | Name | Points | Xiamen | Wujiang | Arco | Chamonix | Villars | Tai'an | Chongqing | Moscow |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | 550.00 | 3. 65.00 | 2. 80.00 | 3. 65.00 | 11. (31.00) | 1. 100.00 | 1. 100.00 | 8. 40.00 | 1. 100.00 | |
| 2 | 420.00 | 1. 100.00 | 1. 100.00 | - | - | - | 3. 65.00 | 1. 100.00 | 4. 55.00 | |
| 3 | 414.00 | 2. 80.00 | 3. 65.00 | 1. 100.00 | 13. 26.00 | 7. 43.00 | 16. 20.00 | 16. (20.00) | 2. 80.00 | |
| 4 | 402.00 | 7. 43.00 | 4. 55.00 | 2. 80.00 | 3. 65.00 | 3. 65.00 | 7. 43.00 | 9. (37.00) | 5. 51.00 | |
| 5 | 299.00 | 8. 40.00 | 9. 37.00 | 5. 51.00 | 7. 43.00 | 5. 51.00 | 4. 55.00 | 15. 22.00 | - | |
| 6 | 298.00 | 5. 51.00 | 20. (12.00) | 8. 40.00 | 16. 20.00 | 17. 18.00 | 14. 24.00 | 2. 80.00 | 3. 65.00 | |
| 7 | 292.00 | 16. 20.00 | 6. 47.00 | - | 2. 80.00 | - | 6. 47.00 | 4. 55.00 | 7. 43.00 | |
| 8 | 266.00 | 4. 55.00 | 18. 16.00 | 20. (12.00) | 6. 47.00 | 8. 40.00 | 9. 37.00 | 6. 47.00 | 14. 24.00 | |
| 9 | 239.00 | 9. 37.00 | 5. 51.00 | - | - | - | 2. 80.00 | 7. 43.00 | 12. 28.00 | |
| 10 | 235.00 | 14. 24.00 | 12. 28.00 | 13. 26.00 | 14. 24.00 | 2. 80.00 | 15. 22.00 | 11. 31.00 | 20. (12.00) |
National Teams
For National Team Ranking, 3 best results per competition and category were counted (not counting results in brackets).[12]
| Rank | Nation | Points | Xiamen | Wujiang | Arco | Chamonix | Villars | Tai'an | Chongqing | Moscow |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | 2448 | 318 | 316 | 406 | 349 | 359 | (280) | 369 | 331 | |
| 2 | 1704 | 328 | 353 | - | - | - | 367 | 351 | 305 | |
| 3 | 1568 | 235 | 176 | 183 | 218 | 312 | 289 | 155 | (146) | |
| 4 | 1120 | 191 | 164 | - | 189 | 210 | 115 | 192 | 59 | |
| 5 | 876 | 106 | 47 | 200 | 234 | 137 | 82 | 70 | (44) | |
| 6 | 710 | 53 | 104 | 131 | 131 | 129 | (35) | 41 | 121 | |
| 7 | 688 | 48 | 93 | 135 | 106 | 122 | 89 | 95 | (25) | |
| 8 | 464 | 81 | 74 | 65 | 37 | 40 | - | 43 | 124 | |
| 9 | 169 | 0 | 6 | 81 | 18 | 37 | 26 | 1 | (0) | |
| 10 | 167 | 18 | 16 | 43 | 22 | 17 | - | - | 51 |
References
- ^ "IFSC Climbing Worldcup (B,S) - Moscow (RUS) 2018". Ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 18 December 2018.
- ^ "Starting now: the 2018 IFSC World Cup Season". BMC. 12 April 2018. Retrieved 18 April 2018.
- ^ "IFSC Rules Modifications 2018" (PDF). Ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 18 December 2018.
- ^ "IFSC Lead Climbing World Cup 2018 Men OVERALL Ranking". Ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 18 December 2018.
- ^ "IFSC Lead Climbing World Cup 2018 Women OVERALL Ranking". Ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 18 December 2018.
- ^ "IFSC Lead Climbing World Cup 2018 National Team Ranking". Ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 18 December 2018.
- ^ "IFSC Bouldering World Cup 2018 Men OVERALL Ranking". Ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 18 December 2018.
- ^ "IFSC Bouldering World Cup 2018 Women OVERALL Ranking". Ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 18 December 2018.
- ^ "IFSC Bouldering World Cup 2018 National Team Ranking". Ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 18 December 2018.
- ^ "IFSC Speed Climbing World Cup 2018 Men OVERALL Ranking". Ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 18 December 2018.
- ^ "IFSC Speed Climbing World Cup 2018 Women OVERALL Ranking". Ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 18 December 2018.
- ^ "IFSC Speed Climbing World Cup 2018 National Team Ranking". Ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 18 December 2018.