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Stichting (Foundation) Textile Research Centre (TRC),Leiden, Netherlands, is an independent research institute working in the field of textiles and dress.[1] It is housed at Hogewoerd 164 in Leiden and includes exhibition space, storage rooms, a lecture room and other working areas. The current director of the TRC (per March 2016) is Dr. Gillian Vogelsang-Eastwood, a textile and dress historian.
Stichting Textile Research Centre (TRC), Leiden, The Netherlands, is a vibrant educational and research centre, with its own exhibition gallery, a large textiles and garment collection of international repute, extensive teaching facilities, and an ever-growing group of dedicated volunteers and interns. The TRC explores, in the widest sense, the fascinating world of textiles, dress and accessories. In doing so, it focuses, firstly, on the relationship between dress and identity: what do people, wherever and whenever, wear and why do they do so. Secondly, the TRC concentrates on pre-industrial textile techniques and their products. Set up in 1991 and initially housed in the National Museum of Ethnology, Leiden, it moved in 2009 to its own premises along the Hogewoerd in the centre of Leiden. Over the years it has become a regional, national and international centre of expertise, which attracts the attention of amateurs and professionals from all over the world, and brings them together at many different levels and at a wide diversity of events.
Ever since its inception, the TRC has worked closely together with Leiden University and other Leiden-based institutions, such as the National Museum of Ethnology, the National Museum of Antiquities, the municipal museum, De Lakenhal, and the local museum, Het Leids Wevershuis. Nationally and internationally the TRC has built up a wide network of contacts, both at an individual and institutional level. The TRC is supervised by an enthusiastic board, which is led by a former rector magnificus of Leiden University and it receives the advice of an international advisory committee.
TRC’s strong national and international foundation is based on the courses and workshops that it organises, its specialised library and most important of all, its internationally acclaimed collection. The collection is professionally housed in its own depots at the TRC. It is used by a wide variety of visitors, including scholars, students and the general public. It is used, not only for research, but also to illustrate courses, lectures, workshops as well as publications and exhibitions. Every year, for example, fashion students from colleges in Belgium and the Netherlands come to the TRC to examine garments that provide inspiration for their own work. Archaeology students from Leiden University are taught about the many roles of textiles in various ancient and historical societies with the help of the TRC collection (which includes some of the oldest textiles known in the world to date). The collection is also used for the TRC Gallery exhibitions, which attract visitors from a wide range of ethnic and cultural backgrounds, looking for information and inspiration, or simply for being reminded of their own ethnic and/or cultural background.
In order to ‘spread the word’ about textiles and dress and to use the collection of textiles and garments, the TRC has been organising a series of intensive courses and workshops on a wide variety of subjects, including textile technology. In this respect the TRC works closely together with Leiden University and other educational institutes, with respect to research and the supervision of students. Many of its volunteers are in fact trainees who for some time participate in the work of the TRC and thus acquire a wide range of practical knowledge, including the setting up of exhibitions, the cataloguing of (archaeological) textiles, and the general management of an institute. In doing so, the TRC is officially recognised as an erkend leerbedrijf (‘officially recognised educational institution') by the Stichting ECABO (no. 9767310), in Amersfoort.
The courses given by the TRC include a ‘standard’ five-day course on the basic techniques required to produce a textile, which attracts national as well as international scholars, students and interested amateurs. In 2015 it was given five times due to increased demand. Participants over the years have included colleagues, students and interested people from many different countries, including Britain, Denmark, Germany, Greece, Poland, Spain, the USA, as well as the Netherlands. Participants during the last few years have included staff from the British Museum (England), the Brighton Museum Service (England), the Netherlands Forensic Institute (Den Haag), the National Museum (Madrid, Spain), the National Museum (Athens, Greece), the Rijksmuseum (Amsterdam), as well as numerous Marie Curie post-doctorate scholars via the University of Copenhagen, Denmark.
Workshops include the Wednesday Workshops (the last Wednesday of every month), which provide (historical) background information and a practical. Subjects covered by the Wednesday Workshops include a wide range of topics, literally from Leiden broadcloth (a form of woollen material), to the Bayeux tapestry,Palestinian embroidery, Chinese Straits beadwork and the important question how to wear Japanese kimono. These workshops are given by specialist lecturers.
Library
The TRC’s library currently includes over 2200 books. These books include a wide range of subjects relating to textiles and dress. They are arranged in three basic groups: (a) reference books; (b) ‘how-to’ books, and (c) regional textile and dress forms. As part of the open access policy of the TRC, its library catalogue is now online.
TRC annually presents two exhibitions. These are based on items from the TRC collection. Over the years, a wide range of subjects have been covered, including African textiles and dress, embroidery from the Arab World, the Chinese Cheongsam (a dress style popular in China), Iranian dress and textiles (the TRC collection includes the largest assemblage of Iranian garments outside Iran), to protective and decorative footwear. Planned exhibitions include a display of gold and silver in and on garments and textiles; 18th century woven textiles and garments; machine embroidery, as well as specific clothing used for political purposes.
A Well-Dressed Foot (TRC/City Hall, Leiden: July - August 2009)
Collection
The unique aspect of the TRC is its collection, which includes nearly 11,000 items that originate from almost everywhere in the world, from the Andes to Zanzibar, with a special emphasis on Dutch regional dress and Middle Eastern textiles. More specifically, the TRC collection specialises in three areas, pre-industrial textile technology (to complement the Tilburg Textile Museum, which works mainly with North European industrial textiles); dress and identity from around the world, including Dutch forms (again complementing, for example, the Volkenkunde Museum in Leiden, which deals with non-European material culture), and decorative needlework. The third specialisation, which nationally and internationally is a unique focus, includes items from around the world, and looks at techniques (both hand and machine forms), designs and uses. This focus has led, among others, to the publication of The Encyclopedia of Embroidery from the Arab World (Bloomsbury Publishers, London, February 2016). This book is based on items from the TRC collection.
The third specialisation of the collection (embroidery in its widest sense) is also reflected in TRC Needles, a digital encyclopaedia of decorative needlework, which currently has over 1600 entries online, with the aim of reaching 4000 within four years. This open access (no registration is required to view the site) work is supported by colleagues from many different institutions throughout the world. Again many of the entries illustrated in TRC Needles come, or will come, from the TRC collection.
Collection uses
The TRC collection is constantly being used, for research, for exhibitions, for illustrating lectures and teaching activities, or for inspiration. Some of the most important groups of textiles and garments within the collection are:
Afghan traditional dress: The TRC has a substantial collection of Afghan garments and accessories for men, women and children. A large portion of the TRC Afghan collection was assembled by Willem Vogelsang between 2002 and 2011. Most of these items date to the latter half of the 20th century and represent the main groups living in the country, including Baluch, Hazara, Nuristani, Pashtun, Tajik, Turkmen and Uzbek groups. In addition, the Afghan collection includes a range of embroidered cloths, some of which were used as covers, while others functioned as prayer cloths. Many of the TRC’s Afghan items were on display in an exhibition entitled Well-Dressed Afghanistan, which was held at the TRC between November 2010 and March 2011 and which attracted many visitors with an Afghan background, and diplomats, military and others who had been working in the country.The exhibition was opened by the honorary consul for Afghanistan in The Hague.
Badla collection: The use of a narrow, flat metal thread (plate, lamella) to create various knotted effects can be found in India, southern Iran and Egypt. Its production used to be more widespread, but the skills needed to create these works are quickly vanishing. Since 1990s the TRC has been building up a collection of badla from India and the Middle East, including head coverings and shawls from Egypt, Iran, Lebanon and Turkey. This technique, known as badla in India, is called telli in Lebanon and Syria, tulle bi-telli in Egypt and khus duzi in Iran. The Indian pieces in the TRC collection include items made for the home market (notably saris) and for export, such as a badla overdress for an Omani Bedouin woman. In the TRC badla collection there is also a special item, namely a 1920s European flapper dress made from two Egyptian shawls decorated in the badla manner.
Charleston letters: The TRC has a collection of letters written in the 1940s by Robert J. Charleston (1916-1994) and addressed to various leading textile authorities of the period. Mr. Charleston was the Keeper of Ceramics and Glass at the Victoria and Albert Museum in London. He helped to build up the collection that is considered to be one of the most comprehensive in Europe. Charleston also had another, less well-known passion, namely textiles. The Charleston collection includes letters to and from pioneering archaeologists, such as Sir Mortimer Wheeler, Grace M. Crowfoot, and R. Pfister, among others. The letters, written during and shortly after the Second World War, reveal a remarkably pan-European scholarly cooperation among British, German, French, Italian and Hungarian researchers. Mr. Charleston gave the letters to Dr. Gillian Vogelsang-Eastwood, director of the TRC, in May 1985 and they were passed on to the TRC some years ago. These letters will be published in digital form in 2017.
Coptic monastic outfits: Since the 1990s the TRC has been actively collecting male and female ecclesiastical, monastic and secular dress and accessories of the Coptic community in Egypt. This work has been primarily carried out by Dr. Karel Innemée (Leiden University) and Ms. Tineke Rooijakkers (Amsterdam Free University). The garments include all the levels from novice to bishop, for both male and female monastic professionals. Many of these items will be on display in an exhibition about Coptic dress and identity to be held at the TRC in 2017. This exhibition will be based upon a PhD thesis on the same theme that was successfully defended by Ms. Rooijakkers in March 2016. She used many of the items in the TRC collection for her work.
Dutch regional dress: The TRC has deliberately been collecting examples of Dutch regional dress, and thanks to the help of the Prins Bernard Cultuur Fonds (national and Zuid-Holland branches), the TRC holdings are substantial and represent the main regional forms and many of the more ‘obscure’ types. The basic collection was purchased from the Dutch collector, Herman Roza, but it has been enriched by many donations of individual or small groups of regional dress. A collection of Dutch lace caps from the collection went on display in Jordan in 2011. They were exhibited at the Jordan National Gallery of Fine Arts, Amman, with a wide variety of Jordanian and Palestinian forms of headgear for women. This exhibition was created with the help of Mrs. Widad Kawar (Amman) and the Embassy of the Kingdom of the Netherlands in Amman. Many items of this group of garments has been on display, among others in the Leiden city hall, and a special booklet was published on the subject (in English and Dutch), sponsored by the Prins Bernard Cultuur Fonds.
Appliqué from the Street of the Tentmakers, Cairo, with calligraphy in the shape of a pear. Made in 2013. TRC 2013.0440
Egyptian appliqués: The TRC collection of appliqués from the so-called Street of the Tentmakers in Cairo, Egypt, has been built up since the 1980s. A large number of appliqués were purchased in 2013-4 in order to acquire a series that represent the main types of appliqués produced in the Street and especially for an exhibition held at the TRC from January to June 2015, celebrating the history of the Street, the men who work there and their products. The exhibition was set up with the active participation of Cairene craftsmen, and with the support of the Netherlands-Flemish Institute in Cairo. The TRC has over fifty examples, ranging from simple squares, to wall hangings that are over 2 m square in size. In addition, the TRC has a small collection of the equipment used to make the appliqués, including paper patterns, cloth, needles, and even the type of thimble preferred by the appliqué makers.
Egyptian regional dress: Since the 1990s the TRC has been deliberately acquiring present-day Egyptian regional dress, with the aim of creating a collection that represents many of the ethnic and cultural groups living in this vast country. Currently the Egyptian regional dress collection of the TRC includes a range of urban, village and Bedouin garments, including items from various oases, notably Siwa and the Sinai. An unusual item in the collection is a telli dress from the Middle Egyptian town of Assyut dating from the 1950s or possibly earlier. The collection was further enriched by Nubian items given by Prof. W. Adams and Nettie Adams (Lexington, USA), who are well-known scholars of Nubian life. Many of the embroidered items from this collection are used in the Encyclopedia of Embroidery from the Arab World (Gillian Vogelsang-Eastwood, London: Bloomsbury, 2016).
Grace Crowfoot collection: Over the last few years the TRC has been building up a collection of items and photographs associated with one of the founding figures of archaeological textile studies, Grace Crowfoot. Thanks to the generosity of her grandson, John Crowfoot, the TRC now has her collection of spinning and weaving equipment acquired in Egypt, Palestine and Sudan in the 1920s. It also includes her trial pieces for copies of woven textiles from the tombs of Tutankhamun and St. Cuthbert. The Grace Crowfoot collection is currently being catalogued and will be published in the form of a digital publication in 2016.
Hand spinning equipment: An important theme within the TRC is pre-industrial textile technology, with an emphasis on hand spinning. Over the years the TRC has built up a collection of traditional and modern hand spindles and distaffs from around the world. These include items that take on many different forms, but all of which are intended to spin raw fibres of various forms. This part of the TRC collection is intensively used during the five-day intensive textile courses, which are regularly being organised by the TRC.
Iranian regional dress: Thanks to the generosity of Shell Iran, the TRC was able to build up a collection of traditional textiles and dress from Iran. For three years (1998-2001), members of the TRC were able to regularly go to this vast country to collect textile and garment items. The TRC collection of Iranian regional dress is now the largest outside of Iran. Examples from this part of the TRC collection have been on display in various exhibitions, including Beyond the Chador: Dress from the Mountains and Deserts of Iran, which was held from January to August 2013 at the TRC. This exhibition included eighty fully dressed mannequins that represent the costumes associated with almost all of the main ethnic groups in Iran. It attracted the attention of many Iranians and others with an Iranian background, as well as the Iranian ambassador and many of his staff.
Josephine Kane collection of Arab dress: Thanks to the help of the Prins Bernard Cultuur Fonds, the TRC was able to acquire, in 2005, the Josephine Kane collection. The majority of items in the collection were from Saudi Arabia, where Mr. and Mrs. Kane worked in the early 1980s. In addition, there were items from Afghanistan, Oman, Palestine and Yemen. Most of the garments were for women and included elaborately embroidered dresses. Many of the embroidered items from the Kane collection have been illustrated in the Encyclopedia of Embroidery from the Arab World (Gillian Vogelsang-Eastwood, London: Bloomsbury, 2016).
Kangas: The first exhibition staged at the TRC in 2009, after it had moved to its new premises along the Hogewoerd in Leiden, was about a special type of cloth worn by women in East Africa and Oman, called a kanga. These wrap around garments are characterised by a saying in Swahili printed on them. These sayings can be both apt and pithy at times. The TRC collection of kangas has steadily grown since then and in particular due to the acquisition of kangas and related garments collected by Marloes van der Bijl in Zanzibar (2005) for her MA thesis (Leiden University), some examples purchased in Oman in 2006 and a more recent donation of kangas by Kate Kingsford (2015), who collected the garments during her PhD fieldwork.
Lace collection: As part of building up a general reference collection for the identification of textiles (materials and techniques), the TRC is also focussing on its collection of lace (bobbin, machine, needle, etc.). In addition to actual pieces of lace, this reference collection also includes tools, such as bobbins, cushions, pattern parchments, as well as crochet hooks, hairpins, tatting shuttles, and so forth. Work on this part of the collection has only just begun so it will be several years before this section of the collection will be available to the general public. Some of the laces were exhibited at the TRC (September – December 2014), together with modern lace forms provided by the Experikant group of artisans.
Lotus shoes collection: Since 2007 the TRC has been building up a unique collection of lotus shoes, the minute shoes worn by mainly Han Chinese women up to the early 20th century. The collection not only includes a range of shoes from different parts of the country, but they also represent different moments, such as weddings, funerals, burials, and so forth. In addition, items relating to the production of lotus shoes including a range of tools, are included in the collection. Many of these shoes were on display in the TRC exhibition (2012/2013) about decorative and protective footwear ("A well-dressed foot", September 2012 – January 2013).
Omani regional dress: Since the 1990s the TRC has been deliberately building up its collection of Omani regional dress. Thanks to the very kind donation of garments by the Oman Embassy, The Hague, the TRC collection has most of the main types of garments worn in the country. Many of these items were displayed in the Nieuwe Kerk (Amsterdam) exhibition, simply called Oman, that took place in 2009-2010. In addition, various embroidered items from the Omani collection are used in the Encyclopedia of Embroidery from the Arab World (2016).
Reference collection: The TRC is currently building up a reference collection of samples and actual objects that can be used for identification purposes, as well as (in some cases) providing samples for the analytical analysis of textiles (fibre, dye, DNA, etc.). This collection includes fibre samples, thread types, woven and non-woven forms, lace, embroidered and printed textiles, as well as various types of equipment used to make textiles. This reference collection will be available to research institutions and scholars to help in the identification of textile forms and techniques. The TRC is cooperating with the Dutch National Forensic Institute in building up this facility.
Saudi Arabian regional dress: Thanks to the help of the Prins Bernard Cultuur Fonds, the TRC was able to acquire the Josephine Kane collection of Arabian Peninsula dress in 2005. As a result of this purchase, the TRC now has a diverse collection of Saudi Arabian regional dress. The garments are primarily for women, but men’s outfits are also represented. They include items for both urban, village and Bedouin groups. The latter include the Beni Malik, Beni Tamin, and Beni Said garments. Among the urban garments is a dress woven with gold and silver that was worn by a Saudi princess to a wedding in the early 1980s. Around the hem of the dress is a woven text in Arabic saying that the cloth was made for the Saudi royal family. Many of the TRC Saudi Arabian garments were on display in an exhibition called Flowing Robes: Clothing and Jewellery from Saudi Arabia, which was held at the National Museum of Ethnology, Leiden, in 2006-2007. In addition, various embroidered items from the TRC Saudi Arabian collection are used in the Encyclopedia of Embroidery from the Arab World (2016).
Silk embroidered postcard from the First World War. TRC collection
Silk postcards: The TRC has a small holding of silk embroidered postcards dating from the First World War (1914-1918). These are often said to be hand embroidered, but they in fact are made on a machine that is called, somewhat confusingly, a hand-embroidery machine, which deliberately copies the appearance of hand embroidery. A mini-exhibition about these cards and how they were made was held at the TRC in November 2015 in order to commemorate the ending of the war in November 1918. This collection has been made possible thanks to the help of Dr. Ian Collins. A digital catalogue of the postcards in the TRC can be downloaded from the TRC homepages. The postcard will be included in a new TRC exhibition on machine embroidery.
Sub-Saharan African textile techniques: In 2014 the TRC held an exhibition called The Silhouette of Africa: Colours and patterns of textiles and garments from Sub-Saharan Africa (February – May 2014). It focussed on many of the traditional textile techniques to be found on the African continent. This exhibition included many items from the TRC collection that were used to describe and discuss different fibre types (notably bark cloth, cotton textiles, human hair), and dyed, embroidered, printed and woven forms from various groups currently living in sub-Saharan Africa.
The Tutankhamun photographic collection: Part of the TRC’s research facilities and its collection include the documentation, written sources, photographs, samples and replica garments relating to a long-term study of the textiles and garments found in the tomb of the ancient Egyptian pharaoh, Tutankhamun (died c. 1323 BCE). Many of the photographs and research notes were made during a project sponsored by the Netherlands Organisation for Scientific Research (NWO) and led by the TRC director, which resulted in various publications and a travelling exhibition of replica garments that opened in Boras, Sweden,
Van Gerwen collection: In 2011 the TRC was given a collection of 16th to 18th century European silks and velvets by the Van Gerwen family. These items were part of the Museum Van Gerwen-Lammens (Valkenswaard, The Netherlands), a private museum dedicated to medieval, and later, ecclesiastical art. Sadly, the museum closed its doors in 2008. The textiles in question derive from various countries, including France, Italy, Spain and possibly The Netherlands. They give a fascinating picture of the range of designs and colours used over a 300-year period for (expensive) textiles.
Veils and veiling: For many years the TRC has been building up a collection of face veils from the Islamic world. These include both modern and traditional forms, which are made in a wide range of shapes, sizes and materials. These items represent the very diverse nature of face veiling that can be found from North Africa to Central Asia and show how culture plays such an important part in the form of face veil worn. Many of these items were published in the book, Covering the Moon: An Introduction to Middle Eastern Face Veils (Gillian Vogelsang-Eastwood and Willem Vogelsang, Leuven: Peeters, 2008). Many of the veils were also used for a large exhibition set up with the help of the TRC at the National Museum of Ethnology (Sluiers Ontsluierd, October 1996 – May 1997).
Yemeni regional dress: Among the items in the Josephine Kane collection that was acquired by the TRC in 2005, there were a number of dresses from Yemen. This part of the TRC collection has been increased since then, thanks to the help of Paul Spijker (Toguna, Amersfoort) and Alison Elliot, with the help of the Al Buraai family in 2013. The Elliot/Al Buraai collection included twelve dresses from different parts of Yemen. Many items from the TRC Yemen collection went on display at the TRC in an exhibition called Dressing Sheba: Glittering Garments and Jewellery from Yemen. This exhibition took place in 2015 and resulted in various people bringing Yemeni items for the Yemen collection, including an intriguing dress with long train from the island of Socotra. In addition, various embroidered items from the Yemeni collection are used in the Encyclopedia of Embroidery from the Arab World (2016).
TRC Needles
The Textile Research Centre (TRC) in Leiden has set up a digital encyclopaedia on decorative needlework, called TRC Needles, which covers this enormous field of human creativity, focussing in particular on appliqué, beading, darned knotting, embroidery, needle lace making, passementerie, patchwork and quilting. The encyclopaedia includes information about different forms from all over the world, from the Americas to Asia. It looks at the earliest surviving examples from ancient Egypt to present-day forms, with an emphasis on handmade examples rather than industrially produced items.
TRC Needles includes references to tools and materials, to iconography, the uses of decorative needlework, to influential people and makers, historical examples, relevant institutions, paintings or similar imagery that depicts decorative needlework. The encyclopaedia also discusses relevant references in various forms of literature, as well as relevant details relating to economic and social history.
The Encyclopaedia includes a comprehensive system of cross-referencing that link items throughout the encyclopaedia. In some cases relevant digital links are given to other websites, and so forth. It is envisaged that the encyclopaedia will eventually include over 5000 entries. Many entries are illustrated with drawings and photographs based on items from the TRC's extensive collection of embroideries and related items, and those from institutes working with the TRC on this project. Sometimes, illustrations are added that were found on the web, and in those cases the digital address of the illustration is given.
To date, February 2016, the Encyclopaedia contains some 1700 entries.
The main editor of the project is Dr. Gillian Vogelsang-Eastwood, director of the Textile Research Centre (TRC) and a specialist in Middle Eastern embroidery. She was the editor and main author of Volume V of the Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion (Oxford: Berg 2010) and the editor and principal author of the Encyclopedia of Embroidery from the Arab World (London: Bloomsbury Publishing 2016). Co-editor is Dr Willem Vogelsang, deputy director of the International Institute for Asian Studies, Leiden, The Netherlands, and former curator for Central and Southwest Asia of the National Museum of Ethnology, Leiden, The Netherlands. He is the author of numerous books and articles on the ancient and modern history and cultures of Southwest Asia, and on modern political and military developments in Afghanistan, including The Afghans, Blackwell/Wiley 2001/2008.
Major publications
C. Fluck and G.M. Vogelsang-Eastwood, Riding Costume in Egypt: Origin and Appearance, Leiden, Brill, 2004.
R. van de Velde-Lagendijk and G.M. Vogelsang-Eastwood, Kanten mutsen uit Nederland/Dutch Lace Caps, Rotterdam and Gronsveld, Barjesteh, 2007 (in Dutch and English).[1]
G.M. Vogelsang-Eastwood, De Kleren van de farao, Amsterdam, De Bataafsche Leeuw, 1994 (exhibition catalogue, National Museum of Antiquities, Leiden, Netherlands. This catalogued also appeared in Danish and German).
G.M. Vogelsang-Eastood, For Modesty’s Sake, Rotterdam, Barjesteh and Meeuwes, 1996 (exhibition catalogue; National Museum of Ethnology, Leiden, Netherlands; Dutch edition: Sluiers Ontsluierd).[2]
G.M. Vogelsang-Eastwood, Tutankhamuns Wardrobe, Rotterdam, Barjesteh and Meeuwes, 1999 (book accompanying an international exhibition with the same name).[3]
G.M. Vogelsang-Eastwood and L. Barjesteh, An Introduction to Qajar Era Dress, Rotterdam, Barjesteh, 2002.[4]
Gillian Vogelsang-Eastwood and Willem Vogelsang, Covering the Moon: An Introduction to Middle Eastern Face Veils, Leuven, Peeters, 2008.[5]
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