Wikipedia - Benutzerbeiträge [de]

Engadine

2016-03-08T05:35:09Z

Hazard-Bot: Bot: Adding {{Research help|Mil}}; please leave feedback/comments at Wikipedia talk:Research help #ResHelp

{{other ships|HMS Engadine}}
{{good article}}
{{EngvarB|date=February 2014}}
{{Use dmy dates|date=February 2014}}
{|{{Infobox ship begin}}
{{Infobox ship image
|Ship image=[[Image:HMS Engadine.jpg|300px]]
|Ship caption=''Engadine'' at anchor, 1915, with a [[Short Brothers]] [[seaplane]] on her stern
}}
{{Infobox ship career
|Hide header=
|Ship country=United Kingdom
|Ship flag={{shipboxflag|United Kingdom|civil}}
|Ship name= SS ''Engadine''
|Ship owner=[[London, Chatham and Dover Railway|South East and Chatham Railway]]
|Ship builder=[[William Denny and Brothers]], [[Dumbarton]], Scotland
|Ship laid down=
|Ship launched=23 September 1911
|Ship in service=
|Ship completed=1911
|Ship fate=Leased to Royal Navy, 11 August 1914
}}
{{Infobox ship career
|Hide header=title
|Ship country=United Kingdom
|Ship flag={{shipboxflag|United Kingdom|naval}}
|Ship name=HMS ''Engadine''
|Ship namesake=
|Ship acquired=*11 August 1914
*February 1915 (purchased)
|Ship commissioned=1 September 1914
|Ship decommissioned=
|Ship in service=
|Ship out of service=
|Ship honours=
|Ship fate=Sold back to owners, December 1919
|Ship notes=
}}
{{Infobox ship career
|Hide header=title
|Ship country=United Kingdom
|Ship flag={{shipboxflag|United Kingdom|civil}}
|Ship name= SS ''Engadine''
|Ship owner=South East and Chatham Railway/[[Southern Railway (UK)|Southern Railway]]
|Ship acquired=December 1919
|Ship reclassified=
|Ship completed=
|Ship fate=Sold, 1932
|Ship notes=
}}
{{Infobox ship career
|Hide header=title
|Ship country=United States
|Ship flag={{shipboxflag|United States|1912}}
|Ship renamed=SS ''Corregidor''
|Ship owner= Fernandez Hermanos, Inc.
|Ship fate=Sunk by [[naval mine|mine]], 17 December 1941
|Ship acquired=1933
}}
{{Infobox ship characteristics
|Hide header=
|Header caption=(as of 1918)
|Ship type=[[Seaplane carrier]]
|Ship displacement={{convert|2550|LT|t}} ([[deep load]])
|Ship tonnage={{GRT|1676|disp=long}}
|Ship length={{convert|323|ft|1|m|abbr=on}}
|Ship beam={{convert|41|ft|1|m|abbr=on}}
|Ship draught={{convert|13|ft|8|in|1|m|abbr=on}}
|Ship power=*{{convert|13800|shp|kW|lk=in|abbr=on}}
*6 [[water-tube boiler]]s
|Ship propulsion=*3 shafts
*3 [[steam turbine]]s
|Ship speed={{convert|21.5|kn|lk=in}}
|Ship range={{convert|1250|nmi|lk=in|abbr=on}} at {{convert|15|kn}}
|Ship complement=197
|Ship armament=*4 × [[QF 12 pounder 12 cwt naval gun|12-pounder 12 cwt guns]]
*2 × [[Ordnance QF 3 pounder Vickers|QF 3-pounder]] [[anti-aircraft gun]]s
|Ship aircraft=4 × [[seaplane]]s
}}
|}
'''HMS ''Engadine''''' was a [[seaplane tender]] which served in the Royal Navy (RN) during [[World War I]]. Converted from the cross-[[English Channel|Channel]] [[packet ship]] SS ''Engadine'', she was initially fitted with temporary [[hangar]]s for three [[seaplane]]s for [[aerial reconnaissance]] and bombing missions in the [[North Sea]]. She participated in the unsuccessful [[Cuxhaven Raid]] in late 1914 before she began a more thorough conversion in 1915 that increased her capacity to four aircraft. ''Engadine'' was transferred to the [[Battlecruiser Fleet]] in late 1915 and participated in the [[Battle of Jutland]] in 1916 when one of her aircraft flew the first heavier-than-air reconnaissance mission during a naval battle. She was transferred to the [[Mediterranean]] in 1918.

She was sold back to her original owners in 1919 and resumed her prewar role. ''Engadine'' was sold in 1933 to a Philippine company and renamed SS ''Corregidor''. She was sunk with heavy loss of life by a [[naval mine|mine]]{{#tag:ref|The mine might have been laid by the Japanese submarine [[Japanese submarine I-124|''I-124'']].<ref>Rohwer, p. 258</ref>|group=Note}} in December 1941 during the [[Philippines Campaign (1941–42)|invasion of the Philippines]] at the beginning of the [[Pacific War]].

==Description==
''Engadine'' had an [[length overall|overall length]] of {{convert|323|ft|m|1}}, a [[beam (nautical)|beam]] of {{convert|41|ft|m|1}}, and a mean [[draft (hull)|draught]] of {{convert|13|ft|8|in|1|m}}.<ref name=f4/> She [[displacement (ship)|displaced]] {{convert|2550|LT|t}} at [[deep load]]<ref name=f4>Friedman, p. 364</ref> and was rated at {{GRT|1676|disp=long}}. Each of the ship's three sets of direct-drive [[steam turbine]]s drove one [[propeller shaft]]. The ship's six [[boiler (steam generator)|boiler]]s generated enough steam to produce {{convert|13800|shp|kW|lk=in}} from the turbines,<ref name=l8/> enough for a designed speed of {{convert|21.5|kn|lk=in}}.<ref name=f0>Friedman, p. 30</ref> ''Engadine'' carried {{convert|400|t|LT}} of coal,<ref name=l8>Layman 1989, p. 38</ref> enough to give her a range of {{convert|1250|nmi|lk=in}} at {{convert|15|kn}}.<ref name="Hobbs 22">Hobbs, p. 22</ref>

==Construction and service==
SS ''Engadine'' was [[Keel|laid down]] by [[William Denny and Brothers]] at their [[Dumbarton]], Scotland shipyard as a [[packet ship|fast packet]] for the [[London, Chatham and Dover Railway|South East and Chatham Railway]]'s [[Folkestone]]-[[Boulogne-sur-Mer|Boulogne]] run. The ship was [[Ship naming and launching|launched]] on 23 September 1911 and completed later that year. She was requisitioned for service by the [[Admiralty]] on 11 August 1914,<ref>Hobbs, pp. 21, 31; Layman 1989, p. 38</ref> and was [[Ship commissioning|commissioned]] on 1 September after she was modified to handle [[seaplane]]s by [[Chatham Dockyard]]. Three canvas [[hangar]]s were installed, one forward and two aft, and there was no flight deck, the aircraft being lowered onto the sea for takeoff and recovered again from the sea after landing by newly installed [[derrick]]s.<ref>Friedman, pp. 30, 32, Hobbs, p. 21</ref> In 1918 her crew numbered 197 officers and enlisted men, including 53 aviation personnel.<ref name=l8/>

Upon completion of the modifications on 1 September, ''Engadine'' was assigned to the [[Harwich Force]] along with the seaplane tenders {{HMS|Empress|1914|2}} and {{HMS|Riviera||2}}.<ref name=l80>Layman 1989, pp. 38, 40</ref> On Christmas Day 1914, nine aircraft from all three ships took part in the Cuxhaven Raid on hangars housing [[Zeppelin]] airships.<ref name=f2/> Seven of the nine seaplanes successfully took off for the attack, but they inflicted little damage. Only three of the aircraft returned to be recovered, but the crews of the other three [[Water landing|ditched]] safely<ref name=f2>Friedman, p. 32</ref> and were recovered by a British submarine<ref>Barnes & James, p. 98</ref> and the Dutch trawler ''Marta van Hattem''.<ref>{{cite magazine|date=8 January 1915|title=The Rescue of Flight Commander Hewlett|magazine=Flight|volume=No. 315|issue=8 January 1915|page=24|url=http://www.flightglobal.com/PDFArchive/View/1915/1915%20-%200024.html|accessdate=7 February 2014}}</ref> A notable member of her crew was [[Robert Erskine Childers]] who served an instructor in coastal navigation to newly trained pilots. He managed to extend his duties to include flying as a navigator and observer and participated in the raid, for which he was [[mentioned in despatches]].<ref>Piper, p. 153</ref>

''Engadine'' was purchased in February 1915 by the Admiralty<ref>Hobbs, p. 31</ref> and she was modified by [[Cunard Line|Cunard]] at [[Liverpool]] from 10 February to 23 March 1915 with a permanent, four-aircraft, hangar in the rear [[superstructure]] and a pair of [[crane (machine)|crane]]s were mounted at the rear of the hangar to hoist the seaplanes in and out of the water.<ref name=l8/> Four [[quick-firing gun|quick-firing (QF)]] [[QF 12 pounder 12 cwt naval gun|12-pounder 12 cwt guns]],<ref group=Note>"Cwt" is the abbreviation for [[hundredweight]], 12 cwt referring to the weight of the gun.</ref> each with 130 rounds, and two [[Vickers]] [[Ordnance QF 3 pounder Vickers|QF 3-pounder]] [[anti-aircraft gun]]s, each with 65 rounds, were fitted for self-defence.<ref name=f2/> She also carried a [[pigeon loft]] that housed [[carrier pigeon]]s to be used by her aircraft if their [[wireless]] was broken.<ref name="Hobbs 22"/>

Upon completion of the conversion, she rejoined the Harwich Force; on 3 July, ''Engadine'' and ''Riviera'' attempted to launch aircraft to reconnoitre the [[Ems (river)|River Ems]] and lure out a Zeppelin so that it could be attacked. Of ''Engadine''{{'}}s three [[Sopwith Schneider]] [[floatplane]]s that she attempted to launch, two wrecked on take off and the third was badly damaged. She was transferred to [[Vice Admiral]] [[David Beatty, 1st Earl Beatty|David Beatty]]'s Battlecruiser Fleet (BCF), based at [[Rosyth]] in October. Later that month ''Engadine'' carried out trials on high-speed towing of [[kite balloon]]s for gunnery observations, although she generally served as a base ship for the fleet's seaplanes.<ref name=f34>Friedman, p. 34</ref>

===Battle of Jutland===
{{main|Battle of Jutland}}
On 30 May 1916, ''Engadine'' was attached to the [[3rd Light Cruiser Squadron]], commanded by Rear Admiral [[Trevylyan Napier]], and carried two [[Short Type 184]] and two [[Sopwith Baby]] floatplanes aboard. The two-seat Type 184s were intended for observation and were fitted with a low-power wireless while the Babys were intended to shoot down Zeppelins. ''Engadine'' accompanied the cruisers when the Battlecruiser Fleet sortied from Rosyth that evening to intercept the German High Seas Fleet. For a time on 31 May she was actually leading the BCF and may have been one of the first ships to spot the oncoming Germans. Her position in the [[vanguard]] was dictated by the requirement for smooth water to successfully launch her aircraft; turbulent water from ships' [[wake]]s was enough to ruin a take off attempt. She would also have to come to a complete stop to hoist her aircraft over the side and prepare it for launch, a process that took at least 20 minutes at anchor. Thus she could launch her floatplane in unruffled water and then fall back among the main body of the fleet.<ref>Layman 1990, pp. 94–95</ref>

Beatty ordered ''Engadine'' to make a search to the north-northeast at 14:40 and she sailed through the BCF before turning north-east to find calmer water. At 15:07 Lieutenant [[Frederick Rutland]] took off in his Type 184 and his observer signalled ''Engadine'' that they had spotted three German [[cruiser]]s and five [[destroyer]]s at 15:30. These were ships from the [[II Scouting Group]], leading the battlecruisers of Vice Admiral [[Franz von Hipper]]. This was the first time that a heavier-than-air aircraft had carried out a reconnaissance of an enemy fleet in action. After a few other spot reports were transmitted, the aircraft's fuel line ruptured around 15:36 and Rutland was forced to put his aircraft down. He was able to repair it and signalled that he was ready to take off again, but he was ordered to [[Taxiing|taxi]] to the carrier on the surface. The aircraft reached the ship at 15:47 and it was hoisted aboard by 16:04. By this time, a pair of destroyers, {{HMS|Moresby|1915|2}} and {{HMS|Onslow|1916|2}}, that had been ordered to protect ''Engadine'' while she was stationary had reached her. ''Engadine'' attempted to relay the spot reports to Beatty's [[flagship]] and the flagship of the [[5th Battle Squadron (United Kingdom)|5th Battle Squadron]], but was unsuccessful. She trailed Beatty's force during the "Run to the South", during which time her two escorts were detached and again when they reversed course during the "Run to the North".<ref>Layman 1990, pp. 96–98</ref>

The {{convert|14000|LT|t|adj=on}} [[armoured cruiser]] [[HMS Warrior (1905)|''Warrior'']] had been crippled by numerous hits by German [[battleship]]s around 18:30 and fell in with ''Engadine'' 10 minutes later. The former's [[rudder]] had been jammed full over and she continued to turn in tight circles until her steam was exhausted. At 19:45 ''Engadine'' attempted to take her in tow, but the jammed rudder prevented that until it was trained amidships. By 21:30 she was making {{convert|8|kn}} while her turbines were making revolutions for {{convert|19|kn}}. Early the following morning ''Warrior''{{'}}s progressive flooding had worsened and she was sinking. [[Captain (Royal Navy)|Captain]] [[Vincent Molteno]] ordered his ship abandoned after ''Engadine'' came alongside to take them off at 08:00. One of ''Warrior''{{'}}s guns punctured ''Engadine''{{'}}s hull below the [[waterline]] as the former ship [[ship motions|rolled]] in the moderate seas, but this was quickly patched. About 675 officers and enlisted men successfully made it to the much smaller ''Engadine'' which had to quickly distribute them to prevent her from [[capsizing]]. Among these were about 30 seriously wounded men who were transferred across in their stretchers; one man fell off his stretcher between the ships, but was rescued by Rutland against orders. For his bravery he was awarded the First Class [[Albert Medal (lifesaving)|Albert Medal for Lifesaving]] in gold and briefly became the only living recipient. The transfer was completed before 09:00 and ''Warrior'' sank shortly afterwards.<ref>Layman 1990, pp. 98–99, 101</ref> ''Engadine'' remained with the BCF until early 1918 when she was transferred to the [[Mediterranean Fleet]]. She was based out of [[Malta]], conducting anti-submarine patrols, for the remainder of the war.<ref>Friedman, p. 43; Layman 1989, p. 40</ref>

===Postwar career===
She was sold back to her original owners, the South Eastern and Chatham Railway, in December 1919 and resumed her former role as a cross-Channel ferry. ''Engadine'' was transferred to the [[Southern Railway (UK)|Southern Railway]] in 1923 when the British railroads were consolidated. Passing through the hands of a ship broker, she was sold to Fernandez Hermanos, Inc. in the [[Philippines]] in 1933 and renamed SS ''Corregidor''.<ref>Hobbs, p. 32; Layman 1989, p. 40</ref>

==== Sinking====
At 22:00 on 16 December 1941, ''Corregidor'' left its dock in [[Manila]] in total darkness, loaded to overcapacity with Filipino civilians seeking to escape to the southern Philippines after the war had started. It has been estimated that between 1,200 to 1,500 people were on board, including approximately 150 Philippine soldiers, 7 Americans, 5 Philippine legislators, and hundreds of college students who were traveling home after their schools had closed. Also aboard were military supplies as well the entire artillery complement of the [[Visayan-Mindanao Force]] of the [[Philippine Army]]. The owners of the ship failed to inform the Navy's Inshore Patrol of the ship's plan to leave [[Manila Bay]].<ref name>Cressman; Gordon, pp. 73–76</ref>

Although Captain Apolinar Calvo of the ''Corregidor'' had prior experience navigating the mined entrance to Manila Bay (the mines had been in place since July), the Navy had changed its procedures on that day. Rather than post a [[gunboat]] near the safe channel as they had in days previous, lighted [[buoy]]s were used to guide boats through.<ref>Cressman; Gordon, p. 73</ref> As the ''Corregidor'' sailed close to the [[Corregidor Island|island of Corregidor]] to pass through the channel at around 01:00, the ship was observed turning toward the electrically-controlled [[minefield]]. Some officers posted at the Army's Seaward Defense Command headquarters on the island recommended that the mines be temporarily disarmed so that the ship could pass through the minefield. A number of accounts state that Seaward Defense Commander [[Colonel]] [[Paul Bunker]] ordered that the mines be kept active.<ref>Cressman; Gordon, p. 74</ref>
{{Quote box |quote = "The Army and the Filipino skippers had long been butting heads. All the channels out of Manila Bay had been mined for many months. At this time, the mining was strictly up to date and operational. At 1 AM on 16 December, the SS ''Corregidor'', carrying 760 refugees, attempted to go thru the minefield without asking clearance. This request would have been granted. The Lieutenant who was on watch in the mine casement, on sighting the SS ''Corregidor'' called his superior, who in turn, called the seaward defense commander, Col. Bunker, requesting information as to whether he should de-activate the contact mines in the channel. With a lifetime of experience with the Filipino, going back to the '98 Insurrection, Col. Bunker said 'No!' My first knowledge of this affair came when my duty watch called me at 12:55 AM. The Corregidor had struck one of our mines and in the four or five minutes it took to reach my battery command post, the vessel had sunk. ... Thereafter, we had no trouble with unauthorized Filipino boats attempting to traverse the channel" |source = Captain George Steiger: A POW Diary [http://www.fsteiger.com/gsteipow.html] |width = 50% |align = right }}
When the ''Corregidor'' entered the minefield, there was a large explosion on the starboard side of the vessel. The overcrowded ship quickly began to sink, with many people trapped below-deck. Survivors stated that the ship sank so quickly that there was no time for large-scale panic to set in. Searchlights from Corregidor Island illuminated the scene which aided the rescue effort.<ref>Cressman; Gordon, p. 74–75</ref> Sailors of [[Motor Torpedo Boat Squadron Three|MTB Squadron 3]] posted at [[Sisiman Cove]] heard the explosion and left on three [[PT boat]]s ([[Motor Torpedo Boat PT-32|''PT-32'']], [[Motor Torpedo Boat PT-34|''PT-34'']] and [[Motor Torpedo Boat PT-35|''PT-35'']]) to investigate. When the boats arrived they found survivors in the water and were able to retrieve 282 survivors.<ref>Cressman; Gordon, p. 75</ref> Seven of the rescued passengers later died from their injuries.<ref name=USNChron1941>Cressman</ref>{{#tag:ref|Gordon gives 296 survivors.<ref>Gordon, p. 75</ref>|group=Note}}

The incident was never investigated due to the Japanese invasion. Later, some Army officers reported that the remote-controllable mines were set to the safety position immediately after the explosion occurred. The total number of victims is unknown. It has been estimated that 900–1,200 lost their lives.<ref>Cressman; Gordon, pp. 75–76</ref> Among the dead were the captain and most of the crew, two of the legislators, and one of the American passengers. At the time, the sinking of the ''Corregidor'' was the most [[List of maritime disasters in the Philippines|significant maritime disaster in Philippine history]], and one of the greatest maritime disasters in the world that did not occur as a result of military or naval action.<ref>Hartendorp, p. 350</ref>

==Notes==
{{reflist|group=Note}}

==Footnotes==
{{Research help|Mil}}
{{Reflist|2}}

==References==
*{{cite book|last1=Barnes|first1=Christopher H.|last2=James|first2=Derek N. |title=Shorts Aircraft Since 1900|publisher=Putnam|location=London|year=1989|isbn=0-85177-819-4|last-author-amp=yes}}
*{{cite book | url = http://www.ibiblio.org/hyperwar/USN/USN-Chron/| title = The Official Chronology of the U.S. Navy in World War II | chapter = Chapter III: 1941 | chapterurl = http://www.ibiblio.org/hyperwar/USN/USN-Chron/USN-Chron-1941.html | first = Robert | last = Cressman | location = Annapolis, Maryland | publisher = Naval Institute Press | year = 2000 | isbn = 978-1-55750-149-3 | oclc = 41977179}}
*{{cite book|last=Friedman|first=Norman|title=British Carrier Aviation: The Evolution of the Ships and Their Aircraft|year=1988|publisher=Naval Institute Press|location=Annapolis, Maryland|isbn=0-87021-054-8}}
*{{cite book|last=Gordon|first=John|title=Fighting for MacArthur: The Navy and Marine Corps' Desperate Defense of the Philippine|year=2011|publisher=Naval Institute Press|location=Annapolis, Maryland|isbn=978-1-61251-062-0}}
*{{cite journal| last = Hartendorp| first = A.V.H.|year = 1953| title = The Sinking of the SS Corregidor|journal= The American Chamber of Commerce Journal| publisher = Manila| volume = | issue = September | pages= 350–352| doi =}}
*{{cite book|last=Hobbs|first=David|title=British Aircraft Carriers: Design, Development and Service Histories|year=2013|publisher=Seaforth Publishing|location=Barnsley, UK|isbn=978-1-84832-138-0}}
*{{cite book|last=Layman|first=R. D.|title=Before the Aircraft Carrier: The Development of Aviation Vessels 1859–1922|year=1989|publisher=Naval Institute Press|location=Annapolis, Maryland|isbn=0-87021-210-9}}
* {{cite book|title=Warship 1990|editor=Gardiner, Robert|publisher=Naval Institute Press|location=Annapolis, Maryland|year=1990|isbn=1-55750-903-4|chapter=Engadine at Jutland|last=Layman|first=R. D.}}
* {{cite book | last = Piper | first = Leonard | title = Dangerous Waters: The Life and Death of Erskine Childers (aka The Tragedy of Erskine Childers) | publisher=Hambledon | year = 2003 | isbn = 1-85285-392-1}}
*{{cite book|last=Rohwer|first=Jürgen|title=Axis Submarine Successes of World War Two: German, Italian, and Japanese Submarine Successes, 1939 – 1945|year=1999|publisher=Naval Institute Press|location=Annapolis, Maryland|isbn=1-55750-029-0}}

==External links==
{{Commonscat-inline|HMS Engadine (ship, 1911)|HMS Engadine}}

{{SECR Ships}}
{{SR ships}}

{{coord missing|Pacific Ocean}}

{{DEFAULTSORT:Engadine}}
[[Category:Seaplane carriers of the Royal Navy]]
[[Category:Clyde-built ships]]
[[Category:1911 ships]]
[[Category:Ships of the South Eastern and Chatham Railway]]
[[Category:Steamships of the United Kingdom]]
[[Category:World War I aircraft carriers of the United Kingdom]]
[[Category:Ships of the Southern Railway (Great Britain)]]
[[Category:Steamships of the United States]]
[[Category:World War II merchant ships of the United States]]
[[Category:World War II shipwrecks in the South China Sea]]
[[Category:Maritime incidents in December 1941]]
[[Category:Ships sunk by mines]]

Benutzer:Kurator71/Greek landing at Smyrna

2016-03-08T03:37:25Z

Hazard-Bot: Bot: Adding {{Research help|Mil}}; please leave feedback/comments at Wikipedia talk:Research help #ResHelp

{{Infobox military conflict
| conflict=Greek landing at Smyrna
| partof=[[Greco-Turkish War (1919–22)]] campaign of [[Turkish War of Independence]]
| image=[[File:Izmir15Mayis1919.jpg|280px]]
| caption=Men of the [[1/38 Evzone Regiment]] at the Smyrna quay
| date=May 15, 1919
| place=[[Aidin Vilayet]], [[Ottoman Empire]]
| casus=[[Partitioning of the Ottoman Empire]]
| territory=
| result= Greek victory; [[occupation of Smyrna]]
| combatant1={{flagcountry|Kingdom of Greece}} 
'''Naval support:'''<ref>[http://query.nytimes.com/gst/abstract.html?res=FB0912FC385C1B728DDDAE0994DD405B898DF1D3 Smyrna is taken away from Turkey], New York Times, 17 May 1919.</ref><ref>George F. Nafziger, Mark W. Walton: ''Islam at war: a history'', Greenwood Publishing Group, 2003, ISBN 0275981010, page 131.</ref><ref>Gerald E. Wheeler, Naval Historical Center (U.S.), ''Kinkaid of the Seventh Fleet: a biography of Admiral Thomas C. Kinkaid, U.S. Navy'', Naval Historical Center, Dept. of the Navy, 1995, ISBN 0945274262, page 25.</ref><ref>H. P. Willmott: ''The Last Century of Sea Power, Volume 1: From Port Arthur to Chanak, 1894–1922'', Indiana University Press, 2009, ISBN 0253003563, page 332</ref>
{{flagicon|United Kingdom}} [[United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland|United Kingdom]] 
{{flagicon|France}} [[French Third Republic|France]] 
{{flagicon|Italy|1861}} [[Kingdom of Italy (1861–1946)|Italy]] 
{{flag|United States|1912}}
| combatant2={{flag|Ottoman Empire}}
| commander1=Colonel [[Nikolaos Zafeiriou]]¹
| commander2=[[Ali Nadir Pasha]]² Hürrem Bey³ [[Ali Çetinkaya|Ali Bey]]⁴ Kâzım Bey⁵
| strength1=up to 15,000 soldiers<ref>{{cite web|last1=Eleftheria|first1=Daleziou|title=Britain and the Greek-Turkish War and Settlement of 1919-1923: the Pursuit of Security by "Proxy" in Western Asia Minor|url=http://theses.gla.ac.uk/1578/|publisher=University of Glasgow|accessdate=11 July 2014|page=108|year=2002}}</ref>
| strength2=3,000 soldiers<ref name="Solomonidis">{{cite web|last=Solomonidis|first=Victoria|title=Greece in Asia Minor: The Greek Administration in the Vilayet of Aydin|url=https://kclpure.kcl.ac.uk/portal/files/2934862/245618.pdf|publisher=University of London, King's College|accessdate=5 June 2014|year=1984|page=54|quote=the Turkish troops comprising about 3,000 men were to remain confined to their barracks behind the Konak.}}</ref>
| casualties1 ={{flagicon|Kingdom of Greece}} 2 killed 6–20 wounded<ref name=IACI /><ref name="stavros"/>
| casualties2 =30–40 killed (killed in captivity or during surrender)<ref name="smith1">See: Michael Llewellyn Smith, 1999, page 90.</ref><ref name="baykara">Tuncer Baykara: ''Son Yüzyıllarda İzmir ve Batı Anadolu Uluslararası Sempozyumu tebliğleri'', Akademi Kitabevi, 1994, page 98 {{tr}}</ref><ref name="sapolyo">Enver Behnan Şapolyo: ''Türkiye Cumhuriyeti tarihi'', A. H. Yaşaroğlu, 1960, page 12 {{tr}}</ref> 40–60 wounded<ref name="baykara"/><ref name="sapolyo"/>
| notes = 1: Commander of the [[1st Infantry Division (Greece)|Greek 1st Division]], 2: Commander of the [[XVII Corps (Ottoman Empire)#Order of Battle, May 15, 1919|Ottoman XVII Corps]], 3: Commander of the [[56th Division (Ottoman Empire)|Ottoman 56th Division]], 4: Commander of the 172nd Infantry Regiment ([[Ayvalık]]), 5: Commander of the 173rd Infantry Regiment ([[Urla, İzmir|Urla]])
}}
{{Campaignbox Greco-Turkish War}}

The '''Greek landing at Smyrna''' (modern-day [[İzmir]]) was a military operation by Greek forces starting on May 15, 1919 which involved landing troops in the city of Smyrna and surrounding areas. The [[Allies of World War I|Allied powers]] sanctioned and oversaw the planning of the operation and assisted by directing their forces to take over some key locations and moving warships to the Smyrna harbor. During the landing, a shot was fired on the Greek [[1/38 Evzone Regiment]] and significant violence ensued with Greek troops and Greek citizens of Smyrna participating. The event became important for creating the three-year-long Greek [[Occupation of Smyrna]] and was a major spark for the [[Greco-Turkish War (1919–1922)]].

==Prelude==
At the end of [[World War I]] (1914–1918) and with the [[Armistice of Mudros]] that ended the [[Middle Eastern theater of World War I|Ottoman front of World War I]], the allies began a series of peace talks focused on the [[Partitioning of the Ottoman Empire]]. During [[Paris Peace Conference, 1919]] the Italians landed and took over Antalya and began showing signs of moving troops towards Smyrna.<ref name=Montgomery>{{cite journal|last=Montgomery|first=A. E.|title=The Making of the Treaty of Sèvres of 10 August 1920|journal=The Historical Journal|year=1972|volume=15|issue=04|pages=775|doi=10.1017/S0018246X0000354X|url=http://journals.cambridge.org/action/displayAbstract?fromPage=online&aid=3251216}}</ref> When the Italians left the meeting in protest over other issues, British Prime Minister [[David Lloyd George]] and Greek Prime Minister [[Eleftherios Venizelos]] pushed a concocted report in the peace negotiations alleging that the Christian populations were under direct threat to convince France and the U.S. to support a Greek takeover of the [[Aidin Vilayet]] centered in Smyrna.<ref name=Smith>See: Michael Llewellyn Smith, 1999, pg. 88-92</ref> Borders and terms of the Greek occupation were not decided but in early May 1919, the Allied powers supported Greek troops landing in Smyrna and moved a number of battleships into the area to prepare for the landing.

While negotiations were still in progress, Venizelos informed Clemenceau of the deterioration of the situation in Aidin Vilayet, where the local governor, [[Nureddin Pasha]], was ordering Muslim groups to commit excesses against the Greek population. The British intelligence was also informed of the deterioration of law and order in the area and the Italian role in provoking this situation. In early May, Venizelos reported instances of Italian-Turkish cooperation to the Supreme Allied Council and requested that Allied vessels should be sent to Smyrna. This request, although initially accepted by the Council, was not carried out immediately.<ref name="Solomonidis, 1984, pg. 43">Solomonidis, 1984, pg. 43</ref> Under this context, the British Prime Minister and the Foreign Office were the main supporters of the Greek landing, with the purpose "to restore public order and forestall the massacres".<ref>Solomonidis, 1984, pg. 47</ref>

===Turkish reactions===
The Society for the Defense of Ottoman Rights in Izmir<ref>Erik Jan Zürcher, ''The Unionist Factor: the Rôle of the Committee of Union and Progress in the Turkish National Movement, 1905–1926, BRILL, 1984, ISBN 90-04-07262-4, [http://books.google.com/books?id=BUGIBa78aWwC&pg=PA92&dq=%22Society+for+the+Defence+of+Ottoman+Rights+in+Izmir%22&hl=en&ei=jBUHTq-hDeGimQWU15m2DQ&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=1&ved=0CCkQ6AEwAA#v=onepage&q=%22Society%20for%20the%20Defence%20of%20Ottoman%20Rights%20in%20Izmir%22&f=false p. 92.]</ref><ref>. L. Macfie, ''The End of the Ottoman Empire, 1908–1923'', Longman, 1998, ISBN 978-0-582-28763-1, p. 186.</ref> (''İzmir Müdafaa-i Hukuk-ı Osmaniye Cemiyeti'') was organized to prepare for the arrival of Greek troops. [[Nureddin Pasha]] was appointed governor of the [[Aidin Vilayet]] and Aidin Area Command (''Aydın Bölge Komutanlığı''), and supported activities of the Society for the Defense of Ottoman Rights in Izmir. But he resigned under pressure of the Allied Powers. "Kambur" Ahmed Izzet Bey was appointed as new governor on March 11, and retired general Ali Nadir Pasha was appointed to the post of military commander on March 22, 1919.
<ref name=IACI>{{cite web|last=Inter-Allied Commission of Inquiry|title=Documents of the Inter-Allied Commission of Inquiry into the Greek Occupation of Smyrna and Adjoining Territories|url=http://www.ataa.org/reference/iacom.pdf|accessdate=10/2/2012}}</ref>

===Allied fleet===
In the early weeks of May 1919, allied warships entered the area to prepare for the operation. British Admiral [[Somerset Gough-Calthorpe]] was the primary commander for the operation involving British, U.S., French, Italian, and Greek forces. On May 11, 1919, Rear Admiral [[Mark L. Bristol]], the Commander of [[US Naval Detachment in Turkish Waters]]), came to Izmir from Istanbul on a battleship. The British forces would occupy [[Karaburun]] and [[Uzunada]], French forces would occupy [[Urla, İzmir|Urla]] and [[Foça]], Greek forces would occupy Yenikale fortress.

==The Greek landing==
[[File:Greek army Smyrne 1919.jpg|thumb|left|Greek troops marching on Izmir's coastal street, May 1919]]
[[File:Smyrna is Taken Away from Turkey.png|thumb|Article from the ''[[New York Times]]'', May 17, 1919]]
[[File:Greek girls celebrating the occupation of Smyrna.jpg|thumb|Greek women celebrating]]
In the afternoon of May 11, 1919, the Commander of the [[1st Infantry Division (Greece)|1st Infantry Division]] of the Hellenic Army, positioned in [[Kavala]], Colonel [[Nikolaos Zafeiriou]], received orders for the operation. The next morning, the landing force, consisting of 13,000 soldiers, as well as auxiliary personnel, 14 transport ships and escorted by 3 British and 4 Greek destroyers, headed to Smyrna.<ref>Solomonidis, 1984, pg. 52</ref> Zafeiriou's order to his soldiers, who learned about their destination only after the departure, was the following:
{{quotation|Wherever we may go, we must know that we are going to liberate our brethren under alien rule. The enthusiasm filling our hearts is fully justified but any improper manifestation of this enthusiasm will be entirely out of place. We must not forget that when we reach our destination we shall meet Turks, Jews and Europeans of other denominations. Everybody should be treated in the same way. In a little while they will become our brothers as if they were true Greeks.<ref>Solomonidis, 1984, pg. 52-53</ref>}}

On May 14, 1919, the Greek mission in Smyrna read a statement announcing that Greek troops would be arriving the next day in the city. Smith reports that this news was "received with great emotion" by the Greek population of the city while thousands of Turkish residents gathered in the hill that night lighting fires and beating drums in protest.<ref name="smith2"/> Later, translations of proclamations issued by the Turks during this occasion, showed that the intention was not purely pacific resistance.<ref name="smith2"/> The same night, several hundred prisoners, mostly Turks, were released from a prison, with the complicity of the Ottoman authorities and Italian major in charge of the prison.<ref name="smith2">See: Michael Llewellyn Smith, 1999, pg. 88</ref> Some of them armed purchased arms from a depot near the barracks.<ref name="smith2"/>

Greek occupation of Smyrna started the following day, where thousands were gathered on the seafront, waving Greek flags on the docks where the Greek troops were expected to arrive. The Metropolitan of Smyrna, [[Chrysostomos of Smyrna]] blessed the first troops as they arrived at 08:00.<ref name=Smith /> A colonel, who had neither the will nor the prestige to force himself relentlessly on his men, was in charge of the operation and neither the appointed High Commissioner nor high-ranking military individuals were there for the landing resulting in miscommunication and a breakdown of discipline.<ref>See: Michael Llewellyn Smith 1999, pg. 91</ref> Most significantly, this resulted in the [[1/38 Evzone Regiment]] landing north of where they were to take up their post. As a result, they had to march south passing a large part of the Greek celebratory crowds and the Ottoman government [[Konak (residence)|Konak]] and the barracks of Ottoman troops. A Turk fired a shot (Smith indicates that no one knows who fired the shot) and chaos resulted with the Greek troops firing multiple shots into the Konak and the barracks.<ref name=Smith /> The Ottoman troops surrendered and the Greek regiment begun marching them up the coast to a ship to serve as a temporary prison. [[Allies of World War I|Allied]] officers in the harbor reported seeing Greek troops bayoneting multiple Turkish prisoners during the march and then saw them thrown into the sea.<ref name=Smith /> Prisoners were forced to shout "''Long live Venizelos!''" and "''Long live Greece!''".<ref name="smith3"/> Donald Whittall, a British citizen and one of the few neutral observers during the landing, remarked about the treatment of Turkish prisoners, ''"They were made to go through no humiliation and received a good deal"''.<ref name="smith3">See: Michael Llewellyn Smith, 1999, pg. 89-90</ref> Whittall estimated that thirty unarmed prisoners were slaughtered.<ref name="smith3"/> No atrocities were committed by the Greek crowd and Greek soldiers, who could be restrained from shooting the prisoners by their officers.<ref name="smith3"/> The captain of the [[HMS Adventure (1904)|HMS Adventure]] reported, that a [[Turkish people|Turkish]] [[Officer (armed forces)|officer]], marching with his hands up, veer out of line.<ref name="smith3"/> He was hit by a Greek soldier's rifle butt on the back of his head. When he tried to stand up he was hit again and bayoneted, before the top of his head was blown off.<ref name="smith3"/>

Violence and disorder followed the landing and Greek troops and Greek citizens of Smyrna participated in these actions.<ref name=Smith /> Some shops belonging to [[Jewish people|Jews]] were also plundered by Greek soldiers.<ref>Çağrı Erhan: ''Greek Occupation of Izmir and Adjoining Territories: Report of the Inter-Allied Commission of Inquiry (May–September 1919)'', Center for Strategic Research (SAM), 1999, page 20.</ref> For the days following the landing, Greek troops arbitrarily detained around 2,500 people.<ref name=IACI /> Looting of Turkish houses in the city and in the surrounding areas began on the night of May 15 and continued for many days after that.<ref name=Smith /> The Inter-Allied Commission of Inquiry reported that:
{{quotation | On 15 and 16 May, countless acts of violence and looting targeted at the Turkish people and their homes took place in the town. Fezzes were stolen, preventing the Turks from leaving their homes. Many women were raped. Some people were murdered. The acts of violence and looting were committed for the most part by a mob of Greeks from the town, although it has been proven that soldiers also joined in and that the military authorities took no effective measures to stop the acts of violence and looting until it was too late.<ref name=IACI />}}

[[File:Greek troops loading artillery at the port of Smyrna.jpg|thumb|Greek troops loading artillery]]

Admiral Calthorpe left the area on May 21 and on May 23, the Greek commander in the area went against orders developed by the Allies and Venizelos by ordering the expansion of military operations in [[Aydin]] and [[Şuhut]].<ref name=IACI /> These operations initially did not face significant resistance, but ethnic violence erupted along the way leading to significant violence and chaos; particularly in the [[Battle of Aydin]] from May 27 until June 27, 1919. In many areas, Greek forces demobilized the Ottoman police and then exited the area resulting in Turkish mobs looting Greek property and killing Greek citizens.<ref name=IACI /> This was a retaliatory strike, as result of atrocities committed by Greek soldiers and civilians in Smyrna and surroundings against Turks.<ref name="lewis2008">Mark Alan Lewis: ''International Legal Movements Against War Crimes, Terrorism, and Genocide, 1919--1948''], ProQuest, 2008, ISBN 1109079222, page 115.</ref>

When the atrocities were exposed and condemned by the [[House of Commons of the United Kingdom|British House of Commons]] on 26 June, [[Eleftherios Venizelos|Venizelos]] faced [[British people|British]] diplomatic pressure to conduct an official inquiry.<ref name="lewis2008"/>
Court martial in August 15, 1919 led by the Greek High Commissioner for the violence on May 15 and May 16 pronounced 74 convictions (including 48 Greeks, 13 Turks, 12 Armenians and one Jew).<ref name=IACI />

According to the Inter-Allied Commission of Inquiry, the casualties on 15 May were as follows: Greek army (2 killed, 6 wounded); 100 Greek civilians (20 killed, 20 drowned, 60 wounded); 300-400 Turkish civilians killed or wounded.<ref name=IACI />
Eyewitnesses in Smyrna, reported higher civilian casualties regarding the Turks. The U.S. Naval Officer of the [[USS Arizona (BB-39)|USS Arizona]], which was berthed at the Smyrna harbor, estimated 300-500 Turks killed with a total of 700-1000 casualties.<ref name="stavros"/> Regarding the Greek casualties, he estimated 2 killed and 15-20 wounded soldiers, 20-30 killed and 40-50 wounded civilians<ref name="stavros"/> Reverend MacLachlan, a [[Canadians|Canadian]] in charge of the international college at Smyrna, estimated 400-600 Turks killed.<ref name="stavros">Stavros T. Stavridis : ''The Greek-Turkish War, 1918-23: an Australian press perspective'', Gorgias Press, 2008, ISBN 1593339674, [http://books.google.de/books?id=rTsMAQAAMAAJ&q=%22had+happened+in+the+suburbs+and+nearby+villages%22&dq=%22had+happened+in+the+suburbs+and+nearby+villages%22&hl=de&sa=X&ei=3TxjUfjdLK-Q7Aa6sYGIBw&ved=0CC8Q6AEwAA page 117]</ref>

==Impacts==
{{Main|Occupation of Smyrna}}
The Greek army from the first started showing the signs that they had not come for a temporary occupation but rather for a permanent annexation; to [[Occupation of Smyrna|incorporate western Anatolia into Greece]]. This intention was already clear to some Turks after seeing which territories that Greeks had occupied. The Turkish reaction to these developments was anger, resulting in violence in the region. After the initial shock of the landing, Turkish groups started retaliating by committing excesses against the civilian Greek communities residing outside of the occupation zone.<ref name="Solomonidis, 1984, pg. 43"/> While there were large demonstrations against Allied Forces in Istanbul, in Anatolia first armed clash occurred on 28 May at [[Ödemiş]] between a small body of Turks and Greek army. Afterwards, Turkish guerrilla warfare flared up along the line of Greek advance.<ref>{{cite book|last=Lewis|first=Bernard|title=The Emergence of Modern Turkey|year=1961|publisher=Oxford University Press|pages=241–243}}</ref>

The Greek Landing at Smyrna created the [[Occupation of Smyrna|Smyrna Zone]] that administered the area from 1919 until September 9, 1922. After the violence in May 1919, many of the allies began to limit their support for the operation: France, the United States, and Italy all became resistant to permanent Greek occupation and the dead-born [[Treaty of Sevres]] in 1920 gave administrative control of the area to Greece, while Turkey would retain sovereignty, with permanent sovereignty to be decided after 5 years.<ref name=Montgomery /> The Greek occupation ended when Turkish forces [[Liberation of Izmir|entered Smyrna (İzmir)]] on September 9, 1922.

==See also==
*[[Megali Idea]]
*[[Occupation of Smyrna]]
*[[Hasan Tahsin]]

==References==
{{Research help|Mil}}
{{reflist|30em}}

==Bibliography==
* Celal Erikan, ''Komutan Atatürk'', Cilt I-II, Üçüncü Basım, Türkiye İş Bankası Kültür Yayınları, İstanbul, 2001, ISBN 975-458-288-2. {{Tr icon}}
* Hakkı Güvendik, ''Türk İstiklâl Harbi, Batı Cephesi, Yunanlıların Batı Anadolu'da İstila Hareketlerine Başlamaları, İzmir’in İşgali, Mustafa Kemal Paşa'nın Samsun’a Çıkması, Millî Mukavemet'in Kurulması (May 15ıs – 4 Eylül 1919)'', Cilt 2, Kısım. 1, Genkurmay Başkanlığı Basımevi, Ankara, 1963. {{Tr icon}}
*Michael Llewellyn Smith, [http://books.google.gr/books?id=E4OuoSFztt8C&pg=PA97&lpg=PA97&dq=stergiadis+smyrna&source=bl&ots=czKqtDzXoE&sig=Ivvg-egHduGOUCc8TrpOM1vgwG8&hl=el&sa=X&ei=ENZLUNKiCsTV4QSn9YDQAg&ved=0CDMQ6AEwAQ#v=onepage&q=stergiadis%20smyrna&f=false ''Ionian vision : Greece in Asia Minor, 1919-1922.''], C. Hurst, 1999, London, New edition, 2nd impression.
* Zekeriya Türkmen, ''Mütareke Döneminde Ordunun Durumu ve Yeniden Yapılanması (1918–1920)'', Türk Tarih Kurumu Basımevi, 2001, ISBN 975-16-1372-8. {{Tr icon}}
*{{cite web|last=Solomonidis|first=Victoria|title=Greece in Asia Minor: The Greek Administration in the Vilayet of Aydin|url=https://kclpure.kcl.ac.uk/portal/files/2934862/245618.pdf|publisher=University of London, King's College|accessdate=5 June 2014|year=1984}}

==External links==
* [http://www.sam.gov.tr/perceptions/sampapers/GREEKOCCUPATIONOFIZMIR.pdf Greek Occupation of Izmir and Adjoining Territories: Report of the Inter-Allied Commission of Inquiry (May–September 1919)], SAM, 1999.
* [http://louisville.edu/a-s/history/turks/greekatrocities_smyrna.pdf Greek atrocities in the Vilayet of Smyrna (May to July 1919)] Inedited documents and evidence of English and French officers.

{{Turkish War of Independence}}
{{Megali Idea}}

{{Coord missing|Turkey}}

{{Use mdy dates|date=September 2011}}

{{DEFAULTSORT:Battle Of Dumlupinar}}
[[Category:Conflicts in 1919]]
[[Category:Battles of the Greco-Turkish War (1919–22)|Smyrna landing 1919]]
[[Category:1919 in the Ottoman Empire]]
[[Category:Aidin Vilayet]]
[[Category:Massacres in Turkey]]
[[Category:History of Aydın Province]]
[[Category:History of Izmir Province]]
[[Category:History of Balıkesir Province]]
[[Category:History of Izmir]]
[[Category:History of Ayvalık]]

Franz Neuhausen

2016-03-08T01:39:47Z

Hazard-Bot: Bot: Adding {{Research help|Mil}}; please leave feedback/comments at Wikipedia talk:Research help #ResHelp

{{Infobox military person
| honorific_prefix = ''NSFK-Obergruppenführer''
| name = Franz Neuhausen
| honorific_suffix =
| native_name =
| native_name_lang =
| image = Franz Neuhausen.png
| caption = Franz Neuhausen in NSFK uniform
| birth_date = {{birth date|df=y|1887|12|13}}
| death_date = {{death date and age|df=y|1966|4|14|1887|12|13}}
| birth_place = [[Merzig]], [[German Empire]]
| death_place = [[Munich]], [[West Germany]]
| placeofburial =
| placeofburial_label =
| placeofburial_coordinates = 
| nickname = Fat Franz{{sfn|Der Spiegel|47/1949|ref=Spiegel}}
| birth_name =
| allegiance = {{flag|Nazi Germany}}
| branch =
| serviceyears =
| rank = {{unbulleted list| Consul-General Major of the Luftwaffe | ''[[National Socialist Flyers Corps|NSFK]]-[[Obergruppenführer]]''}}
| servicenumber =
| unit =
| commands =Chief of the Military Administration in Serbia
| battles =
| battles_label =
| awards = [[War Merit Cross|Knights Cross to the War Merit Cross]]
| relations =
| laterwork =
| signature =
| website = 
}}

'''Franz Neuhausen''' (13 December 1887 – 14 April 1966) was a wealthy industrialist who became the special [[Plenipotentiary#Nazi Germany|plenipotentiary]] for economic affairs in the [[Territory of the Military Commander in Serbia]] during most of the [[Nazi Germany|German]] [[military occupation]] of that region of the partitioned [[Kingdom of Yugoslavia]] during [[World War II]]. He worked as a representative of Germany and the [[Nazi Party]] in [[Belgrade]] throughout the 1930s, during which he amassed a huge fortune. As a close friend and personal favourite of ''[[Reichsmarshall]]'' [[Hermann Göring]], he became Göring's direct representative for the [[Four Year Plan]] in the occupied territory, and was its virtual economic dictator from April 1941 until August 1944. On 18 October 1943 he succeeded [[Harald Turner]] as the Chief of the Military Administration in Serbia, and he continued to fulfill both roles until late August 1944.

Neuhausen was considered "sleazy and unscrupulous" and "notoriously corrupt". After complaints by senior Nazi officials in south-east Europe he was arrested and sent to a concentration camp, but survived to be captured by United States authorities. He was handed over by the US to the Yugoslav authorities after the war, and was sentenced to 20 years imprisonment. He was released in 1953 and died in [[Munich]], [[West Germany]] in 1966.

==Early life and inter-war years==
Neuhausen was born on 13 December 1887 in the town of [[Merzig]] in the [[Rhine Province]] of the [[German Empire]].{{sfn|Völkl|Lengyel|1991|p=52}} Nothing is known of his family or life before [[World War I]], and he was a pilot in the [[Luftstreitkräfte|German Air Force]] during that war.{{sfn|Tomasevich|2001|p=76}} In the [[inter-war period]] he reached the rank of ''[[Gruppenführer]]'' (major general) in the [[National Socialist Flyers Corps]] ({{lang-de|Nationalsozialistisches Fliegerkorps}}, NSFK) which was a paramilitary [[Nazi Party]] organisation similar to the ''[[Sturmabteilung]]'' or SA.{{sfn|Kroener|Müller|Umbreit|2000|p=96}} He was stationed in [[Belgrade]] from 1931 onwards, first as the manager of the German Transportation Office, then as the official representative or party attache (''Landesgruppenleiter'') of the Nazi Party in the [[Kingdom of Yugoslavia]], and finally as the German [[Consul (representative)|consul-general]], with the rank of Consul-General Major of the [[Luftwaffe]].{{sfn|Kroener|Müller|Umbreit|2000|p=96}} It is likely that he fulfilled both political and economic intelligence work in Yugoslavia throughout the 1930s. He had effective networks in both government and political circles and kept himself well informed about political and economic conditions, becoming a wealthy industrialist in the process.{{sfn|Tomasevich|2001|p=76}} With the assistance of his close friend{{sfn|Kurapovna|2010|p=258}} ''[[Reichsmarshall]]'' [[Hermann Göring]] he obtained [[Share (finance)|shares]] in a range of mining and metal industries through dubious transactions. As a result of such deals, Neuhausen was arrested by the [[Gestapo]] several times but Göring interceded on his behalf on each occasion to ensure that the serious charges were downgraded. In return, Neuhausen provided Göring with foreign currency, and when he attended the ''Reichsmarshall'''s birthday party each year he gave Göring a {{convert|30|lb|kg|adj=on}} bar of gold or silver. Göring used this money to amass a huge collection of artworks and jewelry at his country estate, [[Carinhall]].{{sfn|Alford|2012|pp=17–18}} As consul-general, Neuhausen negotiated the purchase of the huge [[Bor, Serbia|Bor]] copper mines from the defeated [[French Third Republic|French]] in 1940, and subsequently became chairman of the board of the new German company that operated the mines, ''Bor Kupferbergwerke und Hütten A.G.'' in Belgrade.{{sfn|Tomasevich|2001|p=617}}

==Role in the occupied territory==
[[File:Territory Of The German Military Commander In Serbia 1941-44.png|thumb|left|The Territory of the Military Commander in Serbia. Neuhausen was the virtual economic dictator of this area between April 1941 and August 1944|alt=map of the occupied territory]]
Promoted to ''[[Obergruppenführer|NSFK-Obergruppenführer]]'',{{sfn|Gall|2006|p=112}} Neuhausen was initially appointed by Göring as [[Plenipotentiary#Nazi Germany|plenipotentiary]] general for economic affairs (''Generalbevollmächtigte für die Wirtschaft'') in the [[Territory of the Military Commander in Serbia]],{{sfnm|Hehn|1971|1p=350|Pavlowitch|2002|2p=141|ps=, official name of the occupied territory.}} but his role soon expanded to encompass plenipotentiary responsibility for the [[Four Year Plan]] in the occupied territory. On 9 December 1942, Neuhausen was also appointed to the important role of plenipotentiary for metal ore production in south-east Europe,{{sfn|Kroener|Müller|Umbreit|2003|p=216}} which was initially limited to the occupied territory and the areas of Yugoslavia [[Military history of Bulgaria during World War II|annexed by Bulgaria]],{{sfn|Tomasevich|2001|p=76}} and he was also empowered as plenipotentiary for labour in the occupied territory. Soon after the military administration began, Neuhausen appointed commissioners through whom he controlled the Serbian National Bank and other key economic and financial enterprises. In March 1943 Neuhausen's responsibilities for metals ore production were extended to German-occupied Greece, and after the [[Kingdom of Italy|Italian]] surrender that September, to the previously [[Axis occupation of Greece#The Italian occupation zone|Italian-occupied parts of Greece]] and [[Albanian Kingdom (1943–1944)|Albania]]. In October 1943, the Germans simplified their military administration, and on 18 October 1943 his existing roles were combined with the key role of Chief of the Military Administration (''Militärverwaltungschef'').{{sfn|Tomasevich|2001|p=76}} He remained the chairman of the Bor mining company, which in July 1943 brought in 6,200 [[Jews|Jewish]] forced labourers from [[Kingdom of Hungary (1920–1946)|Hungary]] and territories it had occupied to alleviate the shortage of manpower to work the mine.{{sfn|Kroener|Müller|Umbreit|2003|p=39}}{{sfn|Mojzes|2011|p=91}} At the mines the labourers were under the supervision of the [[Schutzstaffel|SS]] and worked in knee-deep water for 12 hour shifts.{{sfn|Mojzes|2011|p=91}} Neuhausen was also chair of the German banking corporation ''Bankverein für Serbien'' in the occupied territory, as well as several other important companies. Economically, the occupied territory was very important to the Germans as a source of metals, minerals, coal and food.{{sfn|Tomasevich|2001|pp=76–77}} Neuhausen was a powerful figure who had complete control of the economy and state finances of the occupied territory, and successfully exploited them to make a significant contribution to the German war effort.{{sfn|Tomasevich|1975|p=320}}{{sfn|Tomasevich|2001|p=619}}

==Rivalry and arrest==
The presence in Belgrade of direct representatives of senior Nazi officials such as Himmler and Göring meant there were often competing interests at work. As plenipotentiary for economic affairs and a "favourite" of Göring,{{sfn|Hehn|2005|p=109}} Neuhausen acted as a virtual economic dictator on the ''Reichsmarshall's'' behalf in the occupied territory, squeezing the maximum amount of resources out of the local economy to feed the German war machine. Neuhausen was described as being "notoriously corrupt"{{sfn|Kurapovna|2010|p=258}} and "sleazy and unscrupulous",{{sfn|Hehn|2005|p=109}} and had numerous disagreements with other senior officials of the occupation regime regarding the extent of his jurisdiction. In particular, he strenuously opposed attempts by Foreign Affairs Envoy [[Hermann Neubacher]] to give more power to the Belgrade puppet government of [[Milan Nedić]]. Neubacher believed that Neuhausen was corrupt and that he had amassed a huge fortune while serving in Belgrade. After a series of complaints against him by the commander-in-chief southeast Europe ''[[Generalfeldmarschall]]'' (Field Marshal) [[Maximilian von Weichs]] and Neubacher himself, an agreement was reached with the Nazi Foreign Minister [[Joachim von Ribbentrop]] and Himmler, and Neuhausen was subsequently arrested for corruption in August 1944.{{sfn|Pavlowitch|2008|p=230}} He was replaced as plenipotentiary for economic affairs by his mining chief Theo Keyser, and as Chief of the Military Administration in Serbia by Dr. Justus Danckwerts. Neuhausen spent five months in a concentration camp and, although Göring arranged his release,{{sfn|Kurapovna|2010|p=258}} and the award of the [[War Merit Cross|Knight's Cross of the War Merit Cross]] to him,{{sfn|Höttl|1997|p=183}} he still spent the remainder of the war in detention.{{sfn|Tomasevich|2001|pp=76–77}}{{sfn|Pavlowitch|2008|p=230}}

==After the war==
After being captured by US forces he was handed over to the Yugoslav authorities at the end of the war, and although sentenced to 20 years imprisonment following a trial in October 1947, he was soon paroled,{{sfn|Der Spiegel|47/1949}} then released in March 1953. Neuhausen died on 14 April 1966 in [[Munich]], [[West Germany]].{{sfn|Völkl|Lengyel|1991|p=52}}

==Footnotes==
{{Research help|Mil}}
{{reflist|2}}

==References==

===Books===
* {{cite book
|first=Kenneth D.
|last=Alford
|title=Hermann Göring and the Nazi Art Collection: The Looting of Europe's Art Treasures and Their Dispersal after World War II
|publisher=McFarland & Company
|location=Jefferson, NC
|year=2012
|isbn=978-0-7864-8955-8
|url=http://books.google.com.au/books?id=6Cvqr_4Zak0C&printsec=frontcover&source=gbs_ge_summary_r&cad=0#v=onepage&q&f=false
|ref=harv
}}
* {{cite book
|first=Lothar
|last=Gall
|title=Der Bankier Hermann Josef Abs: eine Biographie
|publisher=C.H.Beck
|location=Schnellbach
|year=2006
|isbn=978-3-406-54738-6
|language=German
|url=http://books.google.com.au/books?id=6n0RxUSQvZYC&printsec=frontcover&source=gbs_ge_summary_r&cad=0#v=onepage&q&f=false
|ref=harv
}}
* {{cite book
|first=Paul N.
|last=Hehn
|title=A Low Dishonest Decade: The Great Powers, Eastern Europe, and the Economic Origins of World War II, 1930-1941
|publisher=Continuum International Publishing Group
|location=London
|year=2005
|isbn=978-0-8264-1761-9
|url=http://books.google.com.au/books?id=nOALhEZkYDkC&printsec=frontcover&source=gbs_ge_summary_r&cad=0#v=onepage&q&f=false
|ref=harv
}}
* {{cite book
|first=Wilhelm
|last=Höttl
|title=Einsatz für das Reich
|publisher=Verlag Siegfried Bublies
|location=Schnellbach
|year=1997
|isbn=978-3-926584-41-0
|language=German
|url=
|ref=harv
}}
* {{Citation
| editor1-last = Kroener
| editor1-first = Bernard R.
| editor2-last = Müller
| editor2-first = Rolf-Dieter
| editor3-last = Umbreit
| editor3-first = Hans
|title=Germany and the Second World War, Volume 5: Organization and Mobilization of the German Sphere of Power. Part I. Wartime Administration, Economy, and Manpower Resources, 1939-1941.
|volume=5
|publisher=Oxford University Press
|location=Oxford
|year=2000
|isbn=978-0-19-822887-5
|url=http://books.google.com.au/books?id=2ECZSRNxN3cC&printsec=frontcover&source=gbs_ge_summary_r&cad=0#v=onepage&q&f=false
|ref=harv
}}
* {{Citation
| editor1-last = Kroener
| editor1-first = Bernard R.
| editor2-last = Müller
| editor2-first = Rolf-Dieter
| editor3-last = Umbreit
| editor3-first = Hans
|title=Germany and the Second World War, Volume 5 : Organization and Mobilization of the German Sphere of Power. Part II. Wartime Administration, Economy, and Manpower Resources 1942-1944/5
|volume=5
|publisher=Oxford University Press
|location=Oxford
|year=2003
|isbn=978-0-19-820873-0
|url=http://books.google.com.au/books?id=3JxIMY9SVWUC&printsec=frontcover&source=gbs_ge_summary_r&cad=0#v=onepage&q&f=false
|ref=harv
}}
* {{cite book
|first=Marcia Christoff
|last= Kurapovna
|title=Shadows on the Mountain: the Allies, the Resistance, and the Rivalries that Doomed WWII Yugoslavia
|year=2010
|publisher=John Wiley and Sons
|location=Hoboken, NJ
|isbn=978-0-470-08456-4
|url=http://books.google.com.au/books?id=wfy7-5K74gMC&printsec=frontcover#v=onepage&q&f=false
|ref=harv
}}
* {{cite book
|last = Mojzes
|first = Paul
|year = 2011
|title = Balkan Genocides: Holocaust and Ethnic Cleansing in the 20th century
|publisher = Rowman and Littlefield Publishers
|location = Plymouth
|isbn=978-1-4422-0663-2
|url = http://books.google.com/books?id=KwW2O7v7CUcC&printsec=frontcover
|ref = harv
}}
* {{cite book
|first=Stevan K.
|last=Pavlowitch
|author-link=Stevan K. Pavlowitch
|title=Serbia: The History Behind The Name
|publisher=C. Hurst & Co. Publishers
|location=London
|year=2002
|isbn=978-1-85065-476-6
|url=http://books.google.com.au/books?id=0_3Wt46vBv8C&printsec=frontcover&dq=Serbia:+the+History+behind+the+Name&hl=en&ei=11GBT9yvKKjXmAWos6mRCA&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=book-thumbnail&resnum=1&ved=0CEMQ6wEwAA#v=onepage&q=Serbia%3A%20the%20History%20behind%20the%20Name&f=false
|ref=harv
}}
* {{cite book
|first=Stevan K.
|last=Pavlowitch
|title=Hitler's New Disorder: The Second World War in Yugoslavia
|publisher=Columbia University Press
|location=New York
|year=2008
|isbn=978-1-85065-895-5
|url=http://books.google.com/books?id=R8d2409V9tEC&printsec=frontcover
|ref=harv
}}
* {{cite book
|last=Tomasevich
|first=Jozo
|author-link=Jozo Tomasevich
|title=War and Revolution in Yugoslavia, 1941-1945. 1, The Chetniks.
|volume=1
|publisher=Stanford University Press
|year=1975
|location=San Francisco
|isbn=978-0-8047-0857-9
|url=http://books.google.com/books?id=yoCaAAAAIAAJ&printsec=frontcover
|ref=harv
}}
* {{cite book
|first=Jozo
|last=Tomasevich
|title=War and Revolution in Yugoslavia, 1941-1945: Occupation and Collaboration
|volume=2
|publisher=Stanford University Press
|year=2001
|location=San Francisco
|isbn=978-0-8047-3615-2
|url=http://books.google.com/books?id=fqUSGevFe5MC&printsec=frontcover
|ref=harv
}}
* {{cite book
|first1=Ekkehard
|last1=Völkl
|first2=Zsolt K.
|last2=Lengyel
|title=Der Westbanat 1941–1944: die deutsche, die ungarische und andere Volksgruppen
|publisher=Trofenik
|year=1991
|location=Munich
|isbn=978-3-87828-192-4
|language=German
|url=
|ref=harv
}}

===Journals===
* {{cite journal
| last = Hehn
| first = Paul N.
| authorlink =
| editor =
| editor-link =
| year = 1971
| month =
| title = Serbia, Croatia and Germany 1941–1945: Civil War and Revolution in the Balkans
| journal = Canadian Slavonic Papers
| volume = 13
| issue = 4
| pages = 344–373
| location =
| publisher = University of Alberta
| format =
| arxiv =
| id =
| bibcode =
| doi =
| accessdate = 8 April 2012
| url = http://scholar.google.com.au/scholar?hl=en&q=Gebeit+des+serbien+hehn&btnG=Search&lr=lang_en&as_sdt=0%2C5&as_ylo=&as_vis=0
| ref=harv
}}

===Magazines===
* {{Citation
| title = Neuhausen behielt seinen Kopf
| journal = Der Spiegel
| volume = 47/1949
| pages =
| date = 17 November 1949
| url= http://www.spiegel.de/spiegel/print/d-44438973.html
| language = German
| ref = Spiegel }}

{{Yugoslav World War II war crimes trials}}

{{Persondata
| NAME =Neuhausen, Franz
| ALTERNATIVE NAMES =
| SHORT DESCRIPTION =Nazi official
| DATE OF BIRTH =13 December 1887
| PLACE OF BIRTH = [[Merzig]], [[German Empire]]
| DATE OF DEATH =14 April 1966
| PLACE OF DEATH =Munich, West Germany
}}
{{DEFAULTSORT:Neuhausen, Franz}}
[[Category:1887 births]]
[[Category:1966 deaths]]
[[Category:People from Merzig-Wadern]]
[[Category:People from the Rhine Province]]
[[Category:Officials of Nazi Germany]]
[[Category:Nazi war criminals released early from prison]]
[[Category:Recipients of the Knights Cross of the War Merit Cross]]

Dazzle camouflage

2016-03-07T23:09:46Z

Hazard-Bot: Bot: Adding {{Research help|Mil}}; please leave feedback/comments at Wikipedia talk:Research help #ResHelp

{{Redirect|Dazzle Ships|the Orchestral Manoeuvres in the Dark album|Dazzle Ships (album)}}
{{good article}}
{{Use British English|date=October 2013}}
[[File:USS West Mahomet (ID-3681) cropped.jpg|237px|thumb|[[SS West Mahomet|USS ''West Mahomet'']] in dazzle camouflage, 1918]]

'''Dazzle camouflage''', also known as '''razzle dazzle''' (USA) or '''dazzle painting''', was a family of [[ship camouflage]] used extensively in [[World War I]], and to a lesser extent in [[World War II]] and afterwards. Credited to the British [[marine artist]] [[Norman Wilkinson (artist)|Norman Wilkinson]], though with a rejected prior claim by the [[zoology|zoologist]] [[John Graham Kerr]], it consisted of complex patterns of geometric shapes in contrasting colours, interrupting and intersecting each other.

Unlike other forms of [[camouflage]], the intention of dazzle is not to [[crypsis|conceal]] but to make it difficult to estimate a target's range, speed, and heading. Norman Wilkinson explained in 1919 that he had intended dazzle more to mislead the enemy about a ship's course and so to take up a poor firing position, than actually to cause the enemy to miss his shot when firing.{{efn|Wilkinson said "The primary object of this scheme was not so much to cause the enemy to miss his shot when actually in firing position, but to mislead him, when the ship was first sighted, as to the correct position to take up. Dazzle was a method to produce an effect by paint in such a way that all accepted forms of a ship are broken up by masses of strongly contrasted colour, consequently making it a matter of difficulty for a submarine to decide on the exact course of the vessel to be attacked." For example, an enemy submarine might position itself poorly, leaving itself at long range or out of range altogether.<ref name=Newark74/>}}

Dazzle was adopted by the [[Admiralty]] in Britain, and then by the [[United States Navy]], with little evaluation. Each ship's dazzle pattern was unique to avoid making classes of ships instantly recognisable to the enemy. The result was that a profusion of dazzle schemes was tried, and the evidence for their success was at best mixed. So many factors were involved that it was impossible to determine which were important, and whether any of the colour schemes was effective.

Dazzle attracted the notice of artists such as [[Pablo Picasso|Picasso]], who claimed that [[Cubism|Cubists]] like himself had invented it.<ref name="Campbell-Johnson, Rachel">{{cite web |author=Campbell-Johnson, Rachel |url=http://entertainment.timesonline.co.uk/tol/arts_and_entertainment/visual_arts/article1543756.ece |title=Camouflage at IWM |publisher=The Times |date=21 March 2007}}</ref> [[Edward Wadsworth]], who supervised the camouflaging of over 2,000 ships during the First World War, painted a series of canvases of '''dazzle ships''' after the war, based on his wartime work. [[Arthur Lismer]] similarly painted a series of dazzle ship canvases.

==Intended purposes==
[[File:Dazzle Camouflage Effect.jpg|thumb|upright=1.7|Depiction of how [[Norman Wilkinson (artist)|Norman Wilkinson]] intended dazzle camouflage to cause the enemy to take up poor firing positions]]

At first glance, dazzle seems an unlikely form of [[camouflage]], drawing attention to the ship rather than hiding it. The approach was developed after Allied navies were unable to develop effective means to hide ships in all weather conditions. The British [[zoology|zoologist]] [[John Graham Kerr]] proposed the application of camouflage to British warships in the First World War, outlining what he believed to be the applicable principle, [[disruptive camouflage]], in a letter to [[Winston Churchill]] in 1914 explaining the goal was to confuse, not to conceal, by disrupting a ship's outline. Kerr compared the effect to that created by the patterns on a series of land animals, the giraffe, zebra and jaguar.<ref name=Murphy>{{cite journal |url=http://www.cnrs-scrn.org/northern_mariner/vol19/tnm_19_171-192.pdf |title=The Dazzling Zoologist: John Graham Kerr and the Early Development of Ship Camouflage |last1=Murphy |first1=Hugh |last2=Bellamy |first2=Martin |journal=[[The Northern Mariner]] |date=April 2009 |volume=XIX |issue=2 |pages=171–192}}</ref><ref name=Forbes87>Forbes, 2009. pp. 87–89</ref>

[[File:Coincidence rangefinder (Warships To-day, 1936).jpg|thumb|upright|left|Eyepiece image of a naval rangefinder, image halves not yet adjusted for range. The target's masts are especially useful for rangefinding, so Kerr proposed disrupting these with white bands.<ref name=Forbes87/>]]

Taking up the zebra example, Kerr proposed that the vertical lines of ships' masts be disrupted with irregular white bands. Hiding these would make ships less conspicuous, and would "greatly increase the difficulty of accurate range finding".<ref name=Forbes87/>{{efn|Kerr thought this because, as shown in the rangefinder eyepiece image, masts provide ideal verticals to align.}} However, in the same letter, Kerr also calls for [[countershading]], the use of paint to obliterate self-shading and thus to flatten out the appearance of solid, recognisable shapes. For example, he proposes to paint ships' guns grey on top, grading to white below, so the guns would disappear against a grey background. Similarly, he advised painting shaded parts of the ship white, and brightly lit parts in grey, again with smooth grading between them, making shapes and structures invisible. Kerr was thus hoping to achieve both a measure of invisibility and a degree of confusion for the enemy using a rangefinder. Whether through this mixing of goals, or the Admiralty's skepticism about "any theory based upon the analogy of animals",<ref name=Forbes87/> the Admiralty claimed in July 1915 to have conducted "various trials" and decided to paint its ships in monotone grey, not adopting any of Kerr's suggestions. It had made up its mind, and all Kerr's subsequent letters achieved nothing.<ref name=Forbes87/>

The American artist [[Abbott Handerson Thayer]] had developed a theory of camouflage based on countershading and disruptive coloration, which he had published in the controversial 1909 book ''[[Concealing-Coloration in the Animal Kingdom]]''.<ref name=Roosevelt>{{cite journal | url=http://digitallibrary.amnh.org/dspace/handle/2246/470 | title=Revealing and concealing coloration in birds and mammals | author=Roosevelt, Theodore | journal=Bulletin of the American Museum of Natural History | year=1911 | volume=30 | issue=Article 8 | pages=119–231}}</ref><ref name=LRB>{{cite journal |last1=Wright |first1=Patrick |title=Cubist Slugs. Review of DPM: Disruptive Pattern Material; An Encyclopedia of Camouflage: Nature – Military – Culture by Roy Behrens |journal=London Review of Books |date=23 June 2005 |volume=27 |issue=12 |pages=16–20 |url=http://www.lrb.co.uk/v27/n12/patrick-wright/cubist-slugs}}</ref> Seeing the opportunity to put his theory into service, Thayer wrote to Churchill in February 1915, proposing to camouflage submarines by countershading them like fish such as [[mackerel]], and advocating painting ships white to make them invisible.<ref name=Forbes87/> His ideas were considered by the Admiralty, but rejected along with Kerr's proposals as being "freak methods of painting ships ... of academic interest but not of practical advantage".<ref name=Forbes87/> The Admiralty noted that the required camouflage would vary depending on the light, the changing colours of sea and sky, the time of day, and the angle of the sun. Thayer made repeated and desperate efforts to persuade the authorities, and in November 1915 travelled to England where he gave demonstrations of his theory around the country. He had a warm welcome from Kerr in Glasgow, and was so enthused by this show of support that he avoided meeting the War Office, who he had been intending to win over, and instead sailed home, continuing to write ineffective letters to the British and American authorities.<ref name=Forbes87/>

The marine artist and [[Royal Naval Volunteer Reserve]] officer [[Norman Wilkinson (artist)|Norman Wilkinson]], agreed with Kerr that dazzle's aim was confusion rather than concealment, but disagreed about the type of confusion to be sown in the enemy's mind. What Wilkinson wanted to do was to make it difficult for an enemy to estimate a ship's type, size, speed, and heading, and thereby confuse enemy ship commanders into taking mistaken or poor firing positions.<ref name=Newark74>{{cite web |title=Camouflage |publisher=Thames and Hudson / Imperial War Museum |year=2007 |author=Newark, Tim |page=74}}</ref><ref>{{cite news |last=Wilkinson |first=Norman |title=Letters. Camouflage |newspaper=The Times |date=4 April 1939}}</ref> An observer would find it difficult to know exactly whether the stern or the bow was in view; and it would be correspondingly difficult to estimate whether the observed vessel was moving towards or away from the observer's position.<ref name="glover">[[Michael Glover (author)|Glover, Michael]]. [http://entertainment.timesonline.co.uk/tol/arts_and_entertainment/visual_arts/article1479657.ece "Now you see it... Now you don't"] ''[[The Times]]''. 10 March 2007.</ref>

[[File:EB1922 Camouflage Periscope View.jpg|thumb|upright=1.7|Claimed effectiveness: Artist's conception of a [[U-boat]] commander's periscope view of a merchant ship in dazzle camouflage (left) and the same ship uncamouflaged (right), ''[[Encyclopædia Britannica]]'', 1922. The conspicuous markings obscure the ship's heading.]]

Wilkinson advocated "masses of strongly contrasted colour" to confuse the enemy about a ship's heading.{{efn|Wilkinson said that dazzle was a "method to produce an effect by paint in such a way that all accepted forms of a ship are broken up by masses of strongly contrasted colour, consequently making it a matter of difficulty for a submarine to decide on the exact course of the vessel to be attacked."<ref name=Newark74/>}}<ref name="Newark74"/> Thus, while dazzle, in some lighting conditions or at close ranges, might actually increase a ship's visibility,<ref name=Forbes91>Forbes, 2009. pp. 90–91</ref> the conspicuous patterns would obscure the outlines of the ship's hull (though admittedly not the superstructure<ref name=Forbes97>Forbes, 2009. p. 97</ref>), disguising the ship's correct heading and making it harder to hit.<ref name=Forbes96>Forbes, 2009. p. 96</ref>

Dazzle was created in response to an extreme need, and hosted by an organisation, the Admiralty, which had already rejected an approach supported by scientific theory: Kerr's proposal to use "parti-colouring" based on the known camouflage methods of disruptive coloration and countershading. This was dropped in favour of an admittedly non-scientific appproach, led by the socially well-connected Wilkinson.<ref name=Forbes98>Forbes, 2009. pp. 98–100</ref> Kerr's explanations of the principles were clear, logical, and based on years of study, while Wilkinson's were simple and inspirational, based on an artist's perception.<ref name=Forbes91/> The decision was likely because the Admiralty felt comfortable with Wilkinson, in sharp contrast to their awkward relationship with the stubborn and pedantic Kerr.<ref name=Forbes98/><ref name=Forbes98/><ref name=Forbes92>Forbes, 2009. p. 92.</ref><ref name=Forbes92/>

Wilkinson claimed not to have known of the zoological theories of camouflage of Kerr and Thayer, admitting only to having heard of the "old invisibility-idea" from [[Ancient Rome|Roman times]].<ref name=Forbes91/>{{efn|[[Publius Flavius Vegetius Renatus|Vegetius]] had recorded "Venetian blue" (bluish-green, the same colour as the sea) was used for [[ship camouflage]] during the [[Gallic Wars]], when [[Julius Caesar]] had sent his scout ships to gather intelligence along the coast of Britain.<ref name=Brooklyn1917>{{cite journal |url=http://books.google.com/books?id=A1zXAAAAMAAJ&pg=RA2-PA35 |pages=35–39 |last=Murphy |first=Robert Cushman |authorlink=Robert Cushman Murphy |title=Marine camouflage |work=The Brooklyn Museum quarterly |volume=4–6 |publisher=Brooklyn Institute of Arts and Sciences |date=January 1917}}</ref>}}

==Possible mechanisms==
[[Image:Polish destroyer's range-finder.JPG|thumb|upright|left|A naval [[coincidence rangefinder]], c. 1930]]

In 1973, the naval museum curator Robert F. Sumrall<ref>{{cite web |title=Robert F. Sumrall |url=http://navyyardassociates.net/bp1.html |publisher=Navy Yard Associates |accessdate=7 January 2016}}</ref> suggested a mechanism by which dazzle camouflage may have sown the kind of confusion that Wilkinson had intended for it. [[Coincidence rangefinder]]s used for [[naval artillery]] had an [[optics|optical mechanism]], operated by a human to compute the range. The operator adjusted the mechanism until the two half-images of the target lined up in a complete picture. Dazzle, Sumrall argued, was intended to make that hard, as clashing patterns looked abnormal even when the two halves were aligned, something that became more important when [[submarine]] [[periscope]]s included such rangefinders. Patterns sometimes also included a false [[bow wave]] to make it difficult for an enemy to estimate the ship's speed.<ref>{{cite book |author=Sumrall, Robert F. |title=Ship Camouflage (WWII): Deceptive Art |work=United States Naval Institute Proceedings |date=February 1973 |pages=67–81}}</ref>

[[File:Olympic WWI.jpg|thumb|upright=1.3|{{HMT|Olympic}}, [[Titanic|RMS ''Titanic'']]'s sister ship, in dazzle camouflage while in service as a World War I [[troopship]], from September 1915]]

The historian Sam Willis argued that since Wilkinson knew it was impossible to make a ship invisible with paint, the "extreme opposite"<ref name=Willis>{{cite web |last1=Willis |first1=Sam |title=How did an artist help Britain fight the war at sea? |url=http://www.bbc.co.uk/guides/zty8tfr |publisher=[[British Broadcasting Corporation]] |accessdate=7 January 2016}}</ref> was the answer, using conspicuous shapes and violent colour contrasts to confuse enemy submarine commanders. Willis pointed out, using the {{HMT|Olympic}} dazzle scheme as an example, that different mechanisms could have been at work. The contradictory patterns on the ship's funnels could imply the ship was on a different heading. The curve on the hull below the front funnel could seem to be a false bow wave, creating a misleading impression of the ship's speed. And the striped patterns at bow and stern could create confusion about which end of the ship was which.<ref name=Willis/>

That dazzle did indeed work along these lines is suggested by the testimony of a [[U-boat]] captain:<ref name=Newark74/>

{{quote|It was not until she was within half a mile that I could make out she was one ship [not several] steering a course at right angles, crossing from starboard to port. The dark painted stripes on her after part made her stern appear her bow, and a broad cut of green paint amidships looks like a patch of water. The weather was bright and visibility good; this was the best camouflage I have ever seen.<ref name=Newark74/>}}

In 2011, the scientist Nicholas E. Scott-Samuel and colleagues presented evidence using moving patterns on a computer that human perception of speed is distorted by dazzle patterns. However the speeds required are much larger than were available to First World War ships: Scott-Samuel notes that the targets in the experiment would correspond to a dazzle-patterned [[Land Rover]] vehicle at a range of 70 metres, travelling at 90 kilometres per hour. A confusion in aiming of the observed size, 7%, for a [[rocket propelled grenade]] travelling 70 metres in 0.5 seconds, would be 7% of the distance moved by the target, or 90 centimetres, perhaps enough to save life in that situation.<ref>{{cite journal |last1=Scott-Samuel |first1=Nicholas E. |last2=Baddeley |first2=Roland|last3=Palmer |first3=Chloe E.|last4=Cuthill |first4=Innes C. |title=Dazzle Camouflage Affects Speed Perception |journal=PLOS ONE |date=2011 |doi=10.1371/journal.pone.0020233 |url=http://journals.plos.org/plosone/article?id=10.1371/journal.pone.0020233}}</ref>

==World War I==
[[File:HMS Argus (1917) cropped.jpg|thumb|left|upright=1.2|{{HMS|Argus|I49|6}} displaying a coat of dazzle camouflage in 1918]]

{{further|Camoufleurs}}

In 1914, Kerr persuaded the [[First Lord of the Admiralty]], [[Winston Churchill]], to adopt a form of [[military camouflage]] which he called "parti-colouring". He argued both for [[countershading]] (following the American artist [[Abbott Thayer]]), and for [[disruptive coloration]], both as used by animals.<ref>Forbes, 2009. p. 87</ref> A general order to the British fleet issued on 10 November 1914 advocated use of Kerr's approach. It was applied in various ways to British warships such as [[HMS Implacable (1899)|HMS ''Implacable'']], where officers noted approvingly that the pattern "increased difficulty of accurate range finding". However, following Churchill's departure from the Admiralty, the [[Royal Navy]] reverted to plain grey paint schemes,<ref name=Murphy/> informing Kerr in July 1915 that "various trials had been undertaken and that the range of conditions of light and surroundings rendered it necessary to modify considerably any theory based upon the analogy of [the colours and patterns of] animals".<ref>Forbes, 2009. p. 88</ref>

[[File:'Dazzle-painting' was a form of camouflage, and was particularly effective in moonlight. Wilkinson was responsible for the introduction of the 'dazzle' painted effect. As is evident in this image, the paint des Art.IWMART4029.jpg|thumb|upright=1.2|A painting by [[Norman Wilkinson (artist)|Norman Wilkinson]] of a convoy wearing his dazzle camouflage, 1918]]

The [[British Army]] inaugurated its Camouflage Section for land use at the end of 1916. At sea in 1917, heavy losses of merchant ships to Germany's [[unrestricted submarine warfare]] campaign led to new desire for camouflage. The marine painter [[Norman Wilkinson (artist)|Norman Wilkinson]] promoted a system of stripes and broken lines "to distort the external shape by violent colour contrasts" and confuse the enemy about the speed and dimensions of a ship.<ref>Fisher, Mark. [http://www.timesonline.co.uk/tol/news/uk/scotland/article785672.ece "Secret history: how surrealism can win a war,"] ''[[The Times]]''. 8 January 2006.</ref> Wilkinson, then a lieutenant commander on Royal Navy patrol duty, implemented the precursor of "dazzle" beginning with the merchantman SS ''Industry''. Wilkinson was put in charge of a camouflage unit which used the technique on large groups of merchant ships. Over 4000 British merchant ships were painted in what came to be known as "dazzle camouflage"; dazzle was also applied to some 400 naval vessels, starting in August 1917.<ref name=Murphy/>{{efn|In August 1917, [[HMS Alsatian|HMS ''Alsatian'']] was painted in a dazzle pattern, perhaps the first Royal Navy vessel to be camouflaged in this way.<ref>{{cite web |last1=Raven |first1=Alan |title=The Development of Naval Camouflage 1914–1945 Part I |url=http://www.shipcamouflage.com/1_4.htm |website=Ship Camouflage |accessdate=22 May 2015}}</ref>}}

All British patterns were different, first tested on small wooden models viewed through a periscope in a studio. Most of the model designs were painted by women from London's [[Royal Academy of Arts]]. A foreman then scaled up their designs for the real thing. Painters, however, were not alone in the project. Creative people including sculptors, artists, and set designers designed camouflage.<ref>{{ cite journal |last=Paulk |first=Ann Bronwyn |url=http://muse.jhu.edu/login?uri=/journals/modernism-modernity/v010/10.2bronwyn.html |title=False Colors: Art, Design, and Modern Camouflage (review) |journal=[[Modernism/modernity]] |volume=10 |issue=2 |pages=402–404 |date=April 2003 |doi=10.1353/mod.2003.0035}}</ref>

Wilkinson's Dazzle camouflage was accepted by the [[Admiralty]], even without practical visual assessment protocols for improving performance by modifying designs and colours.<ref>Williams, 2001. p. 35</ref> The dazzle camouflage strategy was adopted by other navies. This led to more scientific studies of colour options which might enhance camouflage effectiveness.<ref>Williams, 2001. p. 40</ref>

After the war, starting on 27 October 1919, an Admiralty committee met to determine who had priority for the invention of dazzle. Kerr was asked whether he thought Wilkinson had personally benefited from anything he Kerr had written. Kerr avoided the question, implying that he had not, and said "I make no claim to have invented the principle of parti-colouring, this principle was, of course, invented by nature".<ref name=Forbes98/> He agreed also that he had not suggested anywhere in his letters that his system would "create an illusion as to the course of the vessel painted".<ref name=Forbes98/> In October 1920 the Admiralty told Kerr that he was not seen as responsible for dazzle painting.<ref name=Forbes98/> In 1922 Wilkinson was awarded the sum of £2000 for the invention.<ref name=Forbes98/>

===Effectiveness===

Dazzle's effectiveness was highly uncertain at the time of the [[First World War]], but it was nonetheless adopted both in Britain and America. In 1918, the Admiralty analysed shipping losses, but was unable to draw clear conclusions. Dazzle ships were attacked in 1.47% of sailings, compared to 1.12% for uncamouflaged ships, suggesting increased visibility, but as Wilkinson had argued, dazzle was not attempting to make ships hard to see. Suggestively, of the ships that were struck by [[torpedo]]es, 43% of the dazzle ships sank, compared to 54% of the uncamouflaged; and similarly, 41% of the dazzle ships were struck amidships, compared to 52% of the uncamouflaged. These comparisons could be taken to imply that submarine commanders did have more difficulty in deciding where a ship was heading and where to aim. However, the ships painted in dazzle were larger than the uncamouflaged ships, 38% of them being over 5000 tons compared to only 13% of uncamouflaged ships, making comparisons unreliable.<ref name="Forbes96"/><ref name="Hartcup">{{cite book |title=Camouflage: the history of concealment and deception in war |publisher=[[Pen & Sword]] |author=Hartcup, Guy |authorlink=Guy Hartcup |year=1979}}</ref>

With hindsight, too many factors (choice of colour scheme; size and speed of ships; tactics used) had been varied for it to be possible to determine which factors were significant or which schemes worked best.<ref name="Scott-Samuel">{{cite journal |url=http://www.plosone.org/article/info:doi/10.1371/journal.pone.0020233 |title=Dazzle Camouflage Affects Speed Perception |author=Scott-Samuel, Nicholas E; Baddeley, Roland; Palmer, Chloe E; Cuthill, Innes C |journal=[[PLoS ONE]] |date=June 2011 |volume=6 |issue=6 |doi=10.1371/journal.pone.0020233 |pages=e20233 |pmid=21673797 |pmc=3105982}}</ref> Thayer did carry out an experiment on dazzle camouflage, but it failed to show any reliable advantage over plain paintwork.<ref name="StevensDazzle">{{cite journal |title=Dazzle coloration and prey movement |author=Stevens, M.; Yule, D.H.; Ruxton, G.D. |journal=[[Proceedings of the Royal Society B]] |year=2008 |volume=275 |issue=1651 |pages=2639–2643 |doi= 10.1098/rspb.2008.0877}}</ref>

The American data were analysed by [[Harold Van Buskirk]] in 1919. About 1256 ships were painted in dazzle between 1 March 1918 and the end of the war on 11 November that year. Among American merchantmen 2500 tons and over, 78 uncamouflaged ships were sunk, and only 18 camouflaged ships; out of these 18, 11 were sunk by torpedoes, 4 in collisions and 3 by mines. No US Navy ships (all camouflaged) were sunk in the period.<ref name=Buskirk>{{cite journal |last1=Buskirk |first1=Harold Van |title=Camouflage |journal=Transactions of the Illuminating Engineering Society |date=1919 |volume=14 |issue=5 |pages=225–229 |url=http://www.forgottenbooks.com/readbook_text/Illuminating_Engineering_v14_1000185898/421}}</ref>{{efn|Thus we know, as Buskirk claimed, that less than 1% of the US merchant ships painted in dazzle were lost; what we do not know is how many non-camouflaged ships there were, so the comparative rates of loss cannot be calculated.}}

==World War II==
{{further2|[[Ship camouflage#Second World War|Ship camouflage in World War II]]|[[World War II ship camouflage measures of the United States Navy]]}}
[[File:The Outside Viewing-tank Directorate of Camouflage Naval Section (1943) (Art. IWM ART LD 2759).jpg|thumb|upright|Dazzle under development: the "Outside Viewing-tank" on the roof of the Directorate of Camouflage Naval Section. James Yunge-Bateman, 1943]]

However effective dazzle camouflage may have been in World War I, it became less useful as rangefinders and especially aircraft became more advanced, and, by the time it was put to use again in [[World War II]], [[radar]] further reduced its effectiveness. However, it may still have confounded enemy submarines.<ref name="proceedings">{{cite journal |author=Sumrall, Robert F. |title=Ship Camouflage (WWII): Deceptive Art |journal=United States Naval Institute Proceedings |date=February 1973 |pages=67–81}}</ref>

In the [[Royal Navy]], dazzle paint schemes reappeared in January 1940. These were unofficial, and competitions were often held between ships for the best camouflage patterns. The Royal Navy's Camouflage Department came up with a scheme devised by a young naval officer, [[Peter Scott]], a wildlife artist, which were developed into the ''[[Western Approaches Command|Western Approaches]] Schemes''. In 1942 the ''Admiralty Intermediate Disruptive Pattern'' came into use, followed in 1944 by the ''Admiralty Standard Schemes''.<ref>{{cite web |last1=Warneke |first1=Jon |last2=Herne |first2=Jeff |url=http://www.steelnavy.com/rnchips.htm |title=Royal Navy Colour Chips |publisher=Steelnavy.com |accessdate=7 January 2012}}</ref>

[[File:USS Northampton (CA-26).jpg|thumb|left|[[USS Northampton (CA-26)|USS ''Northampton'']] wearing Measure 5, a [[List of camouflage methods|false bow wave]]]]

The [[United States Navy]] implemented a [[World War II ship camouflage measures of the United States Navy|camouflage painting program in World War II]], and applied it to many ship classes, from patrol craft and auxiliaries to [[battleships]] and some [[Essex-class aircraft carrier|''Essex''-class aircraft carriers]]. The designs (known as Measures, each identified with a number) were not arbitrary, but were standardised in a process which involved a planning stage, then a review, and then fleet-wide implementation.<ref name="proceedings"/> Not all United States Navy measures involved dazzle patterns; some were simple or even totally unsophisticated, such as a false bow wave on traditional Haze Grey, or Deck Blue replacing grey over part or all of the ship (the latter to counter the [[kamikaze]] threat).<ref>{{cite web |author=Short, Randy |url=http://www.shipcamouflage.com/measures.htm |title=USN Camouflage Measures |publisher=Snyder and Short Enterprises |accessdate=27 July 2015}}</ref> Dazzle measures were used until 1945; in February 1945 the United States Navy's Pacific Fleet decided to repaint its ships in non-dazzle measures against the kamikaze threat, while the Atlantic Fleet continued to use dazzle, ships being repainted if transferred to the Pacific.<ref name="brand">{{cite web |url=http://www.researcheratlarge.com/Ships/S19-7/1945_S19_631Application.html |title=Camouflage Instructions – Carriers, Cruisers, Destroyers, Destroyer Escorts, Assigned to the Pacific Fleet |publisher=Navy Department Bureau of Ships |date=26 February 1945 |accessdate=8 April 2013 |author=Brand, C. L.}}</ref>

Nazi Germany's ''[[Kriegsmarine]]'' first used camouflage in the 1940 [[Norwegian campaign]]. A wide range of patterns were authorised, but most commonly black and white diagonal stripes were used. Most patterns were designed to hide ships in harbour or near the coast; they were often painted over with plain grey when operating in the Atlantic.<ref>{{cite web |last1=Asmussen |first1=John |title=Bismarck Paint Schemes |url=http://www.bismarck-class.dk/bismarck/paint_schemes/paintbism1941rheinubung.html |accessdate=17 July 2015}}</ref><ref>{{cite book |author=Asmussen, John; Leon, Eric |title=German Naval Camouflage Volume One 1939-1941 |date=2012 |publisher=Seaforth Publishing |isbn=978-1-84832-142-7}}</ref>

==Arts==
[[File:Blast2.jpg|thumb|upright|Dazzle has been compared to the contemporary [[Vorticist]] art,<ref name=Forbes98/> here the cover of ''Blast'' by [[Wyndham Lewis]], 1915]]

The abstract patterns in dazzle camouflage inspired artists including Picasso. With characteristic [[hyperbole]],<ref>Forbes, 2009. p. 104</ref> he claimed credit for camouflage experiments, which seemed to him a quintessentially Cubist technique.<ref name="Campbell-Johnson, Rachel"/> In a conversation with [[Gertrude Stein]] shortly after he first saw a painted cannon trundling through the streets of Paris he remarked, "Yes it is we who made it, that is cubism".<ref name=glover/> In Britain, Edward Wadsworth, who supervised dazzle camouflage painting in the war, created a series of canvases after the war based on his dazzle work on ships. In Canada, [[Arthur Lismer]] used dazzle ships in some of his wartime compositions.<ref>{{cite news |last1=Kelly |first1=Gemey |title=The Group of Seven and the Halifax Harbour Explosion: Focus on Arthur Lismer |url=http://www.cbc.ca/halifaxexplosion/he7_teachers/focus_arthur_lismer.pdf |publisher=Canadian Broadcasting Corporation |accessdate=10 June 2015}}</ref> In America, [[Burnell Poole]] painted canvases of United States Navy ships in dazzle camouflage at sea.<ref name=NHHC>{{cite web |title="A Fast Convoy" by Burnell Poole |url=http://www.history.navy.mil/research/library/exhibits/fast-convoy.html |publisher=Naval History and Heritage Command |accessdate=12 January 2016}}</ref> The historian of camouflage Peter Forbes comments that the ships had a [[Modernist art|Modernist]] look, their designs succeeding as avant-garde or [[Vorticist]] art.<ref name=Forbes98/>

In 2007, the art of camouflage, including the evolution of dazzle, was featured as the theme for a show at the [[Imperial War Museum]].<ref>{{cite book |title=Camouflage |publisher=Thames & Hudson with Imperial War Museum |author=Newark, Tim |year=2007 |pages=Inside cover}}</ref> In 2009, the Fleet Library at the [[Rhode Island School of Design]] exhibited its rediscovered collection of lithographic printed plans for the camouflage of American World War I merchant ships, in an exhibition titled "Bedazzled".<ref>{{cite web |title=Fleet Library Special Collections: Dazzle Camouflage |url=http://dazzle.risd.edu/ |accessdate=7 January 2016}}</ref>

In 2014, the Centenary Art Commission backed three dazzle camouflage installations in Britain:<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.1418now.org.uk/whats-on/dazzle-ships |title=Dazzle Ships |accessdate=7 January 2016}}</ref> [[Carlos Cruz-Diez]] covered the pilot ship ''Edmund Gardner'' in Liverpool's Canning Dock with bright multi-coloured dazzle artwork, as part of the city's 2014 [[Liverpool Biennial]] art festival;<ref name="dazzlecarlos">{{cite web |url=http://www.biennial.com/collaborations/carlos-cruz-diez-dazzle-ship |accessdate=7 January 2015 |title=Liverpool Biennial – 2014 – Carlos Cruz-Diez}}</ref> and [[Tobias Rehberger]] painted [[HMS President (1918)|HMS ''President'']], anchored since 1922 at [[Blackfriars Bridge]] in [[London]], to commemorate the use of dazzle, a century on.<ref>{{cite web |author=Brown, Mark |url=http://www.theguardian.com/artanddesign/2014/jul/14/dazzle-ships-recreated-first-world-war-centenary |title=First world war dazzle painting revived on ships in Liverpool and London |publisher=[[The Guardian]] |date=14 July 2014 |accessdate=14 July 2014}}</ref><ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.hmspresident.com/dazzle-ship-london/ |title=HMS President Dazzle Ship London |accessdate=22 May 2015}}</ref> [[Peter Blake (artist)|Peter Blake]] was commissioned to design exterior paintwork for ''Snowdrop'', a [[Mersey Ferry]], which he called "Everybody Razzle Dazzle", combining his trademark motifs (stars, targets etc.) with First World War dazzle designs.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.liverpoolecho.co.uk/whats-on/arts-culture-news/razzle-dazzle-mersey-ferry-unveiled-8968150 |title=Razzle Dazzle Mersey Ferry unveiled by Sir Peter Blake |date=2 April 2015 |first=Catherine |last=Jones |publisher=Liverpool Echo}}</ref>


<gallery>
File:USS Leviathan escorted by USS Allen by Burnell Poole 1918.jpg|Two American ships in dazzle camouflage, painted by [[Burnell Poole]], 1918
File:Arthur Lismer - Olympic with Returned Soldiers.jpg|[[RMS Olympic|RMS ''Olympic'']] in dazzle at [[Halifax Regional Municipality|Halifax, Nova Scotia]] painted by [[Arthur Lismer]], 1919
File:Dazzle-ships in Drydock at Liverpool.jpg|''Dazzle-ships in Drydock at Liverpool'', by [[Edward Wadsworth]], 1919
File:HMS President Dazzle 2.jpg|[[HMS President (1918)|HMS ''President'']], painted by [[Tobias Rehberger]] in 2014 to commemorate the use of dazzle in World War I
</gallery>

==Other uses==
Patterns reminiscent of dazzle camouflage are sometimes used to mask test cars during trials.<ref>{{cite web |last1=Rabe |first1=Mattias|title=Lamborghini kör med vidvinkel-extraljus i Norrland |url=http://teknikensvarld.se/lamborghini-kor-med-vidvinkel-extraljus-i-norrland-177292/ |publisher=Teknikens Värld |accessdate=9 March 2015 |date=9 March 2015 |language=Swedish}}</ref> During the 2015 [[Formula 1]] testing period, the [[Red Bull Racing|Red Bull]] [[Red Bull RB11|RB-11]] car was painted in a scheme intended to confound rival teams' ability to analyse its aerodynamics.<ref>{{cite news |url=http://www.bbc.co.uk/sport/0/31142004 |accessdate=22 February 2015 |work=BBC Sports |agency=BBC News |publisher=BBC |title=Formula One Testing:Tom Clarkson's Jerez Round-Up |author=Clarkson, Tom}}</ref>
The designer Adam Harvey has similarly proposed a form of camouflage reminiscent of dazzle for personal camouflage from face-detection technology. It attempts to block detection by facial recognition technologies such as [[DeepFace]] "by creating an 'anti-face'".<ref>{{cite web |title=The Anti-Surveillance State: Clothes and Gadgets Block Face Recognition Technology, Confuse Drones and Make You (Digitally) Invisible |url=http://www.alternet.org/news-amp-politics/anti-surveillance-state-clothes-and-gadgets-block-face-recognition-technology |website=AlterNet |date=21 April 2015 |accessdate=3 November 2015 |first=Janet |last=Burns}}</ref> It uses occlusion, covering certain facial features; transformation, altering the shape or colour of parts of the face; and a combination of the two.<ref>{{cite journal |title=Facilitating Fashion Camouflage Art |first1=Ranran |last1=Feng |first2=Balakrishnan |last2=Prabhakaran |url=http://doi.acm.org/10.1145/2502081.2502121 |publisher=ACM |journal=Proceedings of the 21st ACM International Conference on Multimedia |date=2013 |isbn=978-1-4503-2404-5 |pages=793–802 |series=MM '13 |doi=10.1145/2502081.2502121}}</ref> Since 2009, the [[Sea Shepherd Conservation Society]] has used dazzle patterns on its fleet.<ref>{{cite web |title=Sea Shepherd Fleet Gets Ready for Upcoming Campaigns |url=http://www.seashepherd.org.au/news-and-commentary/news/sea-shepherd-fleet-sets-sail-for-summer-campaigns.html |publisher=Sea Shepherd |accessdate=5 January 2016 |date=15 April 2011}}</ref>

==Notes==
{{notelist}}

==References==
{{Research help|Mil}}
{{reflist|28em}}

==Sources==
* Forbes, Peter (2009). ''Dazzled and Deceived: Mimicry and Camouflage''. Yale University Press. ISBN 978-0-300-17896-8.
* Williams, David. (2001). [http://books.google.com/books?id=0vomT0cjY9IC&dq=Naval+camouflage,+1914-1945+:+a+complete+visual+reference&client=firefox-a&source=gbs_summary_s&cad=0 ''Naval camouflage, 1914–1945: a complete visual reference.''] [[Naval Institute Press]]. ISBN 978-1-55750-496-8.

==Further reading==

* Behrens, Roy R., ed. (2012). ''Ship Shape: A Dazzle Camouflage Sourcebook''. Bobolink Books. ISBN 978-0-9713244-7-3.

==External links==
{{Commons category}}
* [http://dazzle.risd.edu/ Newly discovered dazzle plans at Rhode Island School of Design]
* [http://www.shipcamouflage.com/1_4.htm The development of naval camouflage 1914–1945]
* [http://www.bobolinkbooks.com/Camoupedia/CamouflageArtists.html Artists and other contributors to camouflage in the 20th century]
* [http://www.bobolinkbooks.com/Camoupedia/DazzleCamouflage.html Camoupedia: dazzle camouflage]
* [http://www.gotouring.com/razzledazzle/articles/dazzle.html Razzle dazzle camouflage]
* [http://books.google.com/books?id=7igDAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA55 "She's All Dressed Up For Peace", ''Popular Science'' (February 1919), p.55.]
* [http://books.google.co.uk/books?id=_CgDAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA17 "Fighting the U-Boat with Paint", ''Popular Science'' (April 1919), p.17-19.]
* [http://www.ussslater.org/tour/exterior/exterior.html Destroyer Escort Historical Museum: USS Slater] painted in 1945 Dazzle camouflage
* [http://www.navsource.org/archives/12/05170.htm US Navy PT Boats in Dazzle Camouflage]
* [http://usndazzle.com/1Web/Index Catalogue of US Navy World War II ships in Dazzle Camouflage]


{{Camouflage}}

[[Category:Military camouflage]]
[[Category:Naval warfare]]

Cortisolaufwachreaktion

2016-03-07T16:12:54Z

Hazard-Bot: Bot: Adding {{Research help|Med}}; please leave feedback/comments at Wikipedia talk:Research help #ResHelp

[[Image:Cortisol-3D-balls.png|right|thumb|300px|Production of the [[corticosteroid]] hormone [[cortisol]] is increased after a person awakes in the morning]]
The '''cortisol awakening response''' (CAR) is an increase of about 50% in [[cortisol]] levels occurring 20–30 minutes ''after'' awakening in the morning in some people. This rise is superimposed upon the late-night rise in cortisol which occurs ''before'' awakening. While its purpose is uncertain, it may be linked to the [[hippocampus]]' preparation of the [[hypothalamic-pituitary-adrenal axis]] (HPA) in order to face anticipated stress.{{citation needed|date=November 2013}}

==Description==
Shortly after awakening, a sharp 38–75% (average 50%) increase occurs in the blood level of [[cortisol]] in about 77%<ref name="Wustwolf00"/> of healthy adults, and it occurs in people of all ages.<ref name= "Fries">Fries E, Dettenborn L, Kirschbaum C. (2009). The cortisol awakening response (CAR): facts and future directions. Int J Psychophysiol. 72(1):67–73. PMID 18854200</ref> The average level of salivary cortisol upon waking is roughly 15 nmol/l; 30 minutes later it may be 23 nmol/l, though there are wide variations.<ref name="Wustwolf00">Wüst S, Wolf J, Hellhammer DH, Federenko I, Schommer N, Kirschbaum C. (2000).[http://www.noiseandhealth.org/article.asp?issn=1463-1741;year=2000;volume=2;issue=7;spage=79;epage=88;aulast=Wust The cortisol awakening response – normal values and confounds.] Noise Health. 2(7):79-88. PMID 12689474</ref> The cortisol awakening response reaches a maximum approximately 30 minutes after awakening though it may still be heightened by 34% an hour after waking.<ref name= "Wustwolf00"/> The pattern of this response to waking is relatively stable for any individual.<ref name="Wustwolf00"/><ref>Hucklebridge F, Hussain T, Evans P, Clow A. (2005). The diurnal patterns of the adrenal steroids cortisol and dehydroepiandrosterone (DHEA) in relation to awakening. Psychoneuroendocrinology. 30(1):51–7. PMID 15358442</ref> [[Twin studies]] show its pattern is largely [[genetically]] determined since there is a heritability of 0.40 for the mean cortisol increase after awakening and 0.48 for the area under the cortisol rise curve.<ref name="Wüst">Wüst S, Federenko I, Hellhammer DH, Kirschbaum C. (2000). Genetic factors, perceived chronic stress, and the free cortisol response to awakening. Psychoneuroendocrinology. 25(7):707–20. PMID 10938450</ref>

Normally, the highest cortisol secretion happens in the second half of the night with peak cortisol production occurring in the early morning. Following this, cortisol levels decline throughout the day with lowest levels during the ﬁrst half of the night.<ref>Tsigos C, Chrousos GP. (2002). Hypothalamic-pituitary-adrenal axis, neuroendocrine factors and stress. J Psychosom Res. 53(4):865–71. {{DOI|10.1016/S0022-3999(02)00429-4}} PMID 12377295</ref> Cortisol awakening response is independent of this circadian variation in HPA axis activity; it is superimposed upon the daily rhythm of HPA axis activity; and it seems to be linked specifically to the event of awakening.<ref>Wilhelm I, Born J, Kudielka BM, Schlotz W, Wüst S. (2007). Is the cortisol awakening rise a response to awakening? Psychoneuroendocrinology. 32(4):358–66. PMID 17408865</ref>

Cortisol awakening response provides an easy measure of the reactivity capacity of the HPA axis.<ref>Schmidt-Reinwald A, Pruessner JC, Hellhammer DH, Federenko I, Rohleder N, Schürmeyer TH, Kirschbaum C. (1999). The cortisol response to awakening in relation to different challenge tests and a 12-hour cortisol rhythm. Life Sci. 64(18):1653–60. PMID 10328525</ref>

==Sleep factors==
* [[Waking up]] earlier in the morning increases the response.<ref>Kudielka BM, Kirschbaum C. (2003). Awakening cortisol responses are influenced by health status and awakening time but not by menstrual cycle phase. Psychoneuroendocrinology. 28(1):35–47. PMID 12445835</ref>
* [[Shift work]]: nurses working on morning shifts with very early awakening (between 4:00–5:30 a.m.) had a greater and prolonged cortisol awakening response than those on the late day shift (between 6:00–9:00 a.m.) or the night shift (between 11:00 a.m.–2:00 p.m.).<ref name="Federenko">Federenko I, Wüst S, Hellhammer DH, Dechoux R, Kumsta R, Kirschbaum C. (2004) Free cortisol awakening responses are influenced by awakening time. Psychoneuroendocrinology. 29(2):174–84. PMID 14604599</ref> However another study found this attributed this greater response to increased [[stress (biological)|stress]] and impaired [[shift work sleep disorder|sleep quality before an early work shift]].<ref>Williams E, Magid K, Steptoe A. (2005). The impact of time of waking and concurrent subjective stress on the cortisol response to awakening. Psychoneuroendocrinology. 30(2):139–48. PMID 15471612</ref>
* [[Nap]]s: students taking a nap of one to two hours in the early evening hours (between 6:45–8:30 p.m.) had no cortisol awakening response, suggesting cortisol awakening response only occurs after night sleep.<ref name="Federenko"/>
* Waking up in the light: cortisol awakening response is larger when people wake up in light rather than darkness.<ref>Scheer FA, Buijs RM. (1999). [http://jcem.endojournals.org/cgi/reprint/84/9/3395 Light affects morning salivary cortisol in humans.] J Clin Endocrinol Metab. 84(9):3395–8. PMID 10487717</ref><ref>Thorn L, Hucklebridge F, Esgate A, Evans P, Clow A. (2004). The effect of dawn simulation on the cortisol response to awakening in healthy participants. Psychoneuroendocrinology. 29(7):925–30. PMID 15177708</ref>
* [[Noise pollution|Noise]]: there is no cortisol rise after nights with traffic-like low-frequency noise.<ref>Waye KP, Clow A, Edwards S, Hucklebridge F, Rylander R. (2003). Effects of nighttime low frequency noise on the cortisol response to awakening and subjective sleep quality. Life Sci. 72(8):863–75. PMID 12493567</ref>
* [[Alarm clock]] vs. spontaneous waking: there is no difference on days when people woke up spontaneously or used the alarm clock.<ref name="Wustwolf00"/>
* [[Aspirin]] has been found to reduce the response probably through an action upon [[ACTH]].<ref>Watson S, Horton K, Bulmer S, Carlile J, Corcoran C, Gallagher P, Ferrier IN. (2009). Effect of aspirin on hypothalamic-pituitary-adrenal function and on neuropsychological performance in healthy adults: a pilot study.Psychopharmacology (Berl). 205(1):151–5. PMID 19404617</ref>

==Individual factors==
* [[Lark (person)|Morning types]] show a larger cortisol awakening response than [[night owl (person)|evening types]].<ref>Kudielka BM, Federenko IS, Hellhammer DH, Wüst S. (2006). Morningness and eveningness: the free cortisol rise after awakening in "early birds" and "night owls". Biol Psychol. 72(2):141–6. PMID 16236420</ref>
* Those suffering [[fatigue (medical)|fatigue]] show a low rise and flat plateau.<ref>Kumari M, Badrick E, Chandola T, Adam EK, Stafford M, Marmot MG, Kirschbaum C, Kivimaki M. (2009). Cortisol secretion and fatigue: Associations in a community based cohort. Psychoneuroendocrinology. PMID 19497676</ref>
* Those in [[pain]]: the response is reduced the more people are in pain.<ref>Fabian LA, McGuire L, Page GG, Goodin BR, Edwards RR, Haythornthwaite J. (2009). The association of the cortisol awakening response with experimental pain ratings. Psychoneuroendocrinology. 34(8):1247–51. PMID 19375866</ref>
* The lower a person's [[socioeconomic status]], the higher their response.<ref>Wright CE, Steptoe A. (2005). Subjective socioeconomic position, gender and cortisol responses to waking in an elderly population. Psychoneuroendocrinology. 30(6):582–90. PMID 15808928</ref> This might link to the material hardship that occurs with low socioeconomic status.<ref>Ranjit N, Young EA, Kaplan GA. (2005). [http://ije.oxfordjournals.org/cgi/reprint/34/5/1138 Material hardship alters the diurnal rhythm of salivary cortisol.] Int J Epidemiol. 34(5):1138–43. PMID 15951357</ref>

==Stress==
Cortisol awakening response is larger for those:
* Waking up to a [[workweek|working day]] compared to work-free weekend day.<ref>Thorn L, Hucklebridge F, Evans P, Clow A. (2006). Suspected non-adherence and weekend versus week day differences in the awakening cortisol response. Psychoneuroendocrinology. 31(8):1009–18. PMID 16876958</ref><ref name="schlotz">Schlotz W, Hellhammer J, Schulz P, Stone AA. (2004). [http://www.psychosomaticmedicine.org/cgi/reprint/66/2/207 Perceived work overload and chronic worrying predict weekend-weekday differences in the cortisol awakening response.] Psychosom Med. 66(2):207–14. PMID15039505</ref>
* Experiencing chronic stress and [[worry]].<ref name="Wüst"/><ref name="schlotz"/>
* Overloaded with work.<ref>Steptoe A, Cropley M, Griffith J, Kirschbaum C. (2000). [http://www.psychosomaticmedicine.org/cgi/reprint/62/2/286 Job strain and anger expression predict early morning elevations in salivary cortisol.] Psychosom Med. 62(2):286–92. PMID 10772410</ref>
* In acute stress. People taking part in a competitive ballroom dance tournament had an increased cortisol awakening response on the morning of their competition day but not their non-competition one.<ref>Rohleder N, Beulen SE, Chen E, Wolf JM, Kirschbaum C. (2007). Stress on the dance floor: the cortisol stress response to social-evaluative threat in competitive ballroom dancers. Pers Soc Psychol Bull. 33(1):69–84. PMID 17178931</ref>
* Worn down by [[burnout (psychology)|burnout]]: some studies find an increased response,<ref>Grossi G, Perski A, Ekstedt M, Johansson T, Lindström M, Holm K. (2005). The morning salivary cortisol response in burnout. J Psychosom Res. 59(2):103–11. PMID 16186006</ref><ref>De Vente W, Olff M, Van Amsterdam JG, Kamphuis JH, Emmelkamp PM. (2003). [http://www.pubmedcentral.nih.gov/picrender.fcgi?artid=1765727&blobtype=pdf Physiological differences between burnout patients and healthy controls: blood pressure, heart rate, and cortisol responses.] Occup Environ Med. 60 Suppl 1:i54–61. PMID 12782748</ref> though other researchers find a decreased<ref>Pruessner JC, Hellhammer DH, Kirschbaum C. (1999). [http://www.psychosomaticmedicine.org/cgi/reprint/61/2/197 Burnout, perceived stress, and cortisol responses to awakening.] Psychosom Med. 61(2):197–204. PMID 10204973</ref> or normal response.<ref>Mommersteeg PM, Heijnen CJ, Verbraak MJ, van Doornen LJ. (2006). Clinical burnout is not reflected in the cortisol awakening response, the day-curve or the response to a low-dose dexamethasone suppression test. Psychoneuroendocrinology. 31(2):216–25. PMID 16150550</ref>

==Neurology==
Cortisol is released from the [[adrenal gland]]s following activation by [[ACTH]] release from the [[pituitary]]. The ACTH release creating the cortisol awakening response is strongly inhibited after intake of a low-dose [[dexamethasone]].<ref>Ehrhart-Bornstein M, Bornstein SR, Scherbaum WA. (1996). Sympathoadrenal system and immune system in the regulation of adrenocortical function. Eur J Endocrinol. 135(1):19–26. PMID 8765968</ref> This is a synthetic [[glucocorticoid]] and this inhibition allows the detection of the presence of [[negative feedback]] from circulating cortisol that controls to [[ACTH]]-secreting cells of the pituitary.

In the [[hypothalamic-pituitary-adrenal axis]] the pituitary release of ACTH is regulated by the [[hypothalamus]]. In the cortisol awakening response, the hypothalamic-pituitary-adrenal axis is controlled by the [[hippocampus]]. For example, cortisol awakening response is absent in those with bilateral and unilateral hippocampus damage<ref>Buchanan TW, Kern S, Allen JS, Tranel D, Kirschbaum C. (2004). Circadian regulation of cortisol after hippocampal damage in humans. Biol Psychiatry.;56(9):651–6. PMID 15522248</ref> and hippocampal [[cerebral atrophy|atrophy]].<ref>Bruehl H, Wolf OT, Convit A. (2009). A blunted cortisol awakening response and hippocampal atrophy in type 2 diabetes mellitus. Psychoneuroendocrinology. 34(6):815–21. PMID 19167831</ref> Those with severe [[amnesia]], and thus with presumed damage to the [[temporal lobe]], also do not have it.<ref>Wolf OT, Fujiwara E, Luwinski G, Kirschbaum C, [[Hans Markowitsch|Markowitsch HJ]]. (2005). No morning cortisol response in patients with severe global amnesia. Psychoneuroendocrinology. 30(1):101–5. PMID 15358447</ref> Those with a larger hippocampus have a greater response.<ref name="pruessner07">Pruessner M, Pruessner JC, Hellhammer DH, Bruce Pike G, Lupien SJ. (2007). The associations among hippocampal volume, cortisol reactivity, and memory performance in healthy young men. Psychiatry Res. 155(1):1–10. PMID 17395434</ref>

It plausible also that the [[suprachiasmatic nucleus]], the light-sensitive biological clock, plays a role in cortisol awakening response regulation.<ref name="Fries"/>

==Function==
The function of cortisol awakening response is unknown but it has been suggested to link with a stress-related preparation in regard to the upcoming day by the hippocampus. <ref>{{cite journal|last1=Law|first1=Robin|last2=Evans|first2=Phil|last3=Thorn|first3=Lisa|last4=Clow|first4=Angela|last5=Hucklebridge|first5=Frank|title=The cortisol awakening response predicts same morning executive function: results from a 50-day case study|journal=Stress: The International Journal on the Biology of Stress|date=2015|volume=18|issue=6|page=616-621|doi=10.3109/10253890.2015.1076789|accessdate=15 February 2016|publisher=Taylor & Francis|language=English|format=Electronic, PDF|issn=1025-3890}}</ref>One hypothesis is: "that the cortisol rise after awakening may accompany an activation of prospective memory representations at awakening enabling individual's orientation about the self in time and space as well as anticipation of demands of the upcoming day... it is tempting to speculate that for the CAR, anticipation of these upcoming demands may be essential in regulating the CAR magnitude for the particular day. The hippocampus is, besides its established role in long-term memory consolidation, involved in the formation of a cohesive construct and representation of the outside world within the central nervous system processing information about space, time and relationships of environmental cues. This puts the hippocampus in a pivotal position for the regulation of the CAR."<ref name="Fries"/>

==See also==
* [[Dawn phenomenon]]
* [[Hypothalamic-pituitary-adrenal axis]]
* [[Sleep]]

==References==
{{Research help|Med}}
{{reflist|2}}

[[Category:Neuroendocrinology]]
[[Category:Sleep physiology]]
[[Category:Unsolved problems in neuroscience]]
[[Category:Stress]]

Kalorienrestriktionmimetikum

2016-03-07T11:29:24Z

Hazard-Bot: Bot: Adding {{Research help|Med}}; please leave feedback/comments at Wikipedia talk:Research help #ResHelp

'''Calorie restriction mimetics''' (CRM), also known as '''Energy restriction mimetics''', designate a hypothetical class of dietary supplement or drug candidate that would in principle mimic the substantial anti-aging effects that [[calorie restriction]] (CR) has on many laboratory animals. CR is defined as a reduction in calorie intake of 20% (mild CR) to 50% (severe CR) without incurring [[malnutrition]] or a reduction in [[essential nutrient]]s.<ref name=Rimbach2015/> The benefits of CR can be interpreted as arising from the mild stress induced in an organism, which activate [[Endogeny (biology)|endogenous]] compensating mechanisms that improve the overall protection against stress. Such compensations include enhanced expression of [[heat shock protein]]s and [[antioxidant]] [[enzyme]]s. An effective CRM would alter the key metabolic pathways involved in the effects of CR itself, leading to preserved youthful health and longer lifespan without the need to reduce food intake. The term was coined by Lane, Ingram, Roth of the [[National Institute on Aging]] in a seminal 1998 paper in the ''Journal of Anti-Aging Medicine'', the forerunner of ''[[Rejuvenation Research]]''.<ref name=Lane1998>{{cite journal|author1=Lane MA |author2=Ingram DK |author3=Roth GS|title=2-Deoxy-D-glucose feeding in rats mimics physiologic effects of calorie restriction|journal=J Anti-Aging Med|date=Winter 1998|volume=1|issue=4|pages=327–37|doi=10.1089/rej.1.1998.1.327|url=http://online.liebertpub.com/doi/abs/10.1089/rej.1.1998.1.327|accessdate=1 October 2013}}</ref> A number of genes and pathways have been shown to be involved the actions of CR in model organisms and these represent attractive targets for drug discovery and for developing CRM. However, no effective CRM have been identified to date.<ref name=Rimbach2015>{{cite journal | url=http://journals.cambridge.org/download.php?file=%2FNRR%2FS0954422415000062a.pdf&code=be4c8fe053e9278f589a28152cc6112a | first1=Sibylle | last1=Nikolai | first2=Kathrin | last2=Pallauf | first3=Patricia | last3=Huebbe | last4=Rimbach | first4=Gerald | title=Energy restriction and potential energy restriction mimetics | journal=Nutrition Research Reviews | date=22 September 2015 | volume= 28| issue=| pages=1–21 | doi=10.1017/S0954422415000062 | pmid=26391585 |deadurl=no | accessdate=8 November 2015}}</ref><ref>{{Cite journal|last1=de Magalhaes | first1=JP | last2=Wuttke | first2=D | last3=Wood | first3=SH | last4=Plank | first4=M | last5=Vora | first5=C | title=Genome-environment interactions that modulate aging: powerful targets for drug discovery |journal=Pharmacol Rev |volume=64 |issue=1 |pages=88–101 |year=2012 |pmid=22090473 |doi=10.1124/pr.110.004499 |pmc=3250080}}</ref><ref name=Ingram&Roth2011>{{cite journal |url=https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/21167272 | last1=Ingram | first1=DK | last2=Roth | first2=GS | title=Glycolytic inhibition as a strategy for developing calorie restriction mimetics|journal=Experimental Gerontology|date=Feb–Mar 2011|volume=46|issue=2-3|pages=148–54 | doi=10.1016/j.exger.2010.12.001 | pmid=21167272 |deadurl=no | accessdate=28 September 2013}}</ref>

Candidate compounds include:

*[[Resveratrol]] (3,5,4'-trihydroxy-''trans''-stilbene) is a [[stilbenoid]], a type of [[natural phenol]], and a [[phytoalexin]] produced naturally by several plants, including grapes, wines, and especially the roots of the [[Japanese knotweed|Japanese Knotweed]], from which it is extracted commercially. Resveratrol was proposed to be a CRM based on a series of early reports which found that it increased the [[life expectancy|lifespan]] of [[yeast]]s, the worm [[Caenorhabditis elegans]], and [[Drosophila|fruit flies]]. Scientists involved in these studies went on to found [[Sirtris Pharmaceuticals]], a company working to develop resveratrol analogs as proprietary drugs. This led many companies to produce and market resveratrol dietary supplements. However, studies by independent scientists have failed to replicate these results<ref name="Bass2007">{{cite journal | author = Bass TM, Weinkove D, Houthoofd K, Gems D, Partridge L | title = Effects of resveratrol on lifespan in Drosophila melanogaster and Caenorhabditis elegans | journal = Mech. Ageing Dev. | volume = 128 | issue = 10 | pages = 546–52 |date=October 2007 | pmid = 17875315 | doi = 10.1016/j.mad.2007.07.007 }}</ref><ref name=Kaeberlein2005>{{cite journal|last=Kaeberlein|first=Matt |author2=Thomas McDonagh |author3=Birgit Heltweg |author4=Jeffrey Hixon |author5=Eric A. Westman |author6=Seth D. Caldwell |author7=Andrew Napper |author8=Rory Curtis |author9=Peter S. DiStefano |author10=Stanley Fields |author11=Antonio Bedalov |author12=Brian K. Kennedy |title=Substrate specific activation of sirtuins by resveratrol|journal=Journal of Biological Chemistry|date=April 29, 2005|volume=280|issue=17|pages=17038–17045|doi=10.1074/jbc.M500655200|pmid=15684413|url=http://www.jbc.org/content/280/17/17038.full|accessdate=7 September 2013}}</ref><ref name=Zou2009>{{cite journal|last=Zou|first=S|author2=Carey JR |author3=Liedo P |author4=Ingram DK |author5=Müller HG |author6=Wang JL |author7=Yao F |author8=Yu B |author9=Zhou A |title=The prolongevity effect of resveratrol depends on dietary composition and calorie intake in a tephritid fruit fly|journal=Experimental Gerontology|date=Jun–Jul 2009|volume=44|issue=6-7|pages=472–6|doi=10.1016/j.exger.2009.02.011|pmid=19264118|pmc=3044489}}</ref> Moreover, in every experiment to date, resveratrol at several doses has failed to extend the lifespan of lean, genetically normal mice<ref name="Pearson2008">{{cite journal | author = Pearson KJ, Baur JA, Lewis KN, Peshkin L, Price NL, Labinskyy N, Swindell WR, Kamara D, Minor RK, Perez E, Jamieson HA, Zhang Y, Dunn SR, Sharma K, Pleshko N, Woollett LA, Csiszar A, Ikeno Y, Le Couteur D, Elliott PJ, Becker KG, Navas P, Ingram DK, Wolf NS, Ungvari Z, Sinclair DA, de Cabo R | title = Resveratrol delays age-related deterioration and mimics transcriptional aspects of dietary restriction without extending life span | journal = Cell Metab. | volume = 8 | issue = 2 | pages = 157–68 |date=August 2008 | pmid = 18599363 | pmc = 2538685 | doi = 10.1016/j.cmet.2008.06.011 }}</ref><ref name="Miller2010">{{cite journal | author = Miller RA, Harrison DE, Astle CM, Baur JA, Boyd AR, de Cabo R, Fernandez E, Flurkey K, Javors MA, Nelson JF, Orihuela CJ, Pletcher S, Sharp ZD, Sinclair D, Starnes JW, Wilkinson JE, Nadon NL, Strong R | title = Rapamycin, but not resveratrol or simvastatin, extends life span of genetically heterogeneous mice | journal = J. Gerontol. A Biol. Sci. Med. Sci. | volume = 66 | issue = 2 | pages = 191–201 |date=February 2011 | pmid = 20974732 | pmc = 3021372 | doi = 10.1093/gerona/glq178 }}</ref><ref name=Strong2013>{{cite journal|last=Strong|first=Randy |author2=Richard A. Miller |author3=Clinton M. Astle |author4=Joseph A. Baur |author5=Rafael de Cabo |author6=Elizabeth Fernandez |author7=Wen Guo |author8=Martin Javors |author9=James L. Kirkland |author10=James F. Nelson |author11=David A. Sinclair |author12=Bruce Teter |author13=David Williams |author14=Nurulain Zaveri |author15=Nancy L. Nadon |author16=David E. Harrison |title=Evaluation of Resveratrol, Green Tea Extract, Curcumin, Oxaloacetic Acid, and Medium-Chain Triglyceride Oil on Life Span of Genetically Heterogeneous Mice|journal=J Gerontol A Biol Sci Med Sci|date=January 2013|volume=68|issue=1|pages=6–16|doi=10.1093/gerona/gls070|pmid=22451473|pmc=3598361}}</ref> or rats.<ref name=daLuz2112>{{cite journal|last=da Luz|first=PL|author2=Tanaka L |author3=Brum PC |author4=Dourado PM |author5=Favarato D |author6=Krieger JE |author7=Laurindo FR |title=Red wine and equivalent oral pharmacological doses of Resveratrol delay vascular aging but do not extend life span in rats|journal=Atherosclerosis|date=September 2012|volume=224|issue=1|pages=136–42|doi=10.1016/j.atherosclerosis.2012.06.007|pmid=22818625}}</ref>
*The antidiabetic drug [[metformin]] was proposed as a possible CRM after it was found that mice administered the drug exhibit similar gene expression changes as CR mice.<ref name=Dhahbi2005>{{cite journal|last=Dhahbi|first=JM|author2=Mote PL |author3=Fahy GM |author4=Spindler SR |title=Identification of potential caloric restriction mimetics by microarray profiling|journal=Physiol Genomics|date=Nov 17, 2005|volume=23|issue=3|pages=343–50|pmid=16189280|doi=10.1152/physiolgenomics.00069.2005}}</ref> It is already clinically approved to treat [[diabetes]], and has been used for this indication for the past 40 years. It enhances the sensitivity of insulin receptors on the surface of muscle and fat cells and activates genes that reduce the production of glucose by the liver, thus reducing the risk of [[Glycation|non-enzymatic glycation]] and other age-related damage; these effects are also seen in CR. Subsequently, metformin was reported to extend the lifespan of short-lived or genetically cancer-prone mouse strains.<ref>{{cite journal |author1=Arkad'eva, A.V. |author2=Mamonov, A.A. |author3=Popovich, I.G. |author4=Anisimov, V.N. |author5=Mikhel'son, V.M. |author6=Spivak, I.M. |title=Metformin slows down ageing processes at the cellular level in SHR mice |journal=Tsitologiia |year=2011 |volume=53 |issue=2 |pages=166–74 |pmid=21516824 |url=https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/21516824 |deadurl=no |accessdate=28 September 2013}}</ref> However, two studies in rats and mice with normal genetics and longevity have found no effect of metformin on maximum lifespan, and only a very small effect on median lifespan.<ref name=MartinMontalvo2013>{{cite journal |vauthors=Martin-Montalvo A, Mercken EM, Mitchell SJ, Palacios HH, Mote PL, Scheibye-Knudsen M, Gomes AP, Ward TM, Minor RK, Blouin MJ, Schwab M, Pollak M, Zhang Y, Yu Y, Becker KG, Bohr VA, Ingram DK, Sinclair DA, Wolf NS, Spindler SR, Bernier M, de Cabo R |title=Metformin improves healthspan and lifespan in mice|journal=Nature Communications|date=Jul 31, 2013|volume=4|page=2192|doi=10.1038/ncomms3192|pmid=2390024|issue=1|bibcode = 2013NatCo...4E2192M }}</ref><ref name=Smith2010>{{cite journal|last=Smith|first=DL Jr |author2=Elam CF Jr |author3=Mattison JA |author4=Lane MA |author5=Roth GS |author6=Ingram DK |author7=Allison DB|title=Metformin supplementation and life span in Fischer-344 rats|journal=J Gerontol A Biol Sci Med Sci|date=May 2010|volume=65|issue=5|pages=468–74|doi=10.1093/gerona/glq033|pmid=20304770}}</ref>
*[[Oxaloacetate]] is a metabolic intermediate of the [[citric acid cycle]]. In the short-lived roundworm ''[[Caenorhabditis elegans]]'', supplementation with oxoacetate increases the ratio of oxidized to reduced [[nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide]] (NAD+:NADH) to activate [[AMPK]] and [[FOXO]] signaling pathways similar to what occurs in calorie restriction.<ref name=Williams2009>{{cite journal |author1=Williams, D.S. |author2=Cash, A. |author3=Hamadani, L. |author4=Diemer, T. |title=Oxaloacetate supplementation increases lifespan in Caenorhabditis elegans through an AMPK/FOXO-dependent pathway |journal=Aging Cell |year=2009 |volume=8 |issue=6 |pages=765–8 |pmid=19793063 |url=https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/19793063 |doi=10.1111/j.1474-9726.2009.00527.x}}</ref> The increase in the NAD+/NADH ratio is due to the reaction of oxaloacetate to malate in the cytoplasm via the enzyme [[malate dehydrogenase]]. In [[mitochondria]] that have been isolated out of cells and tested in oxaloacetate-enriched medium, this increase can be quite dramatic.<ref>{{cite journal |author1=Haslam, J.M. |author2=Krebs, H.A. |title=The permeabiliity of mitochondria to oxaloacetate and malate |journal=Biochem J |year=1968 |volume=107 |issue=5 |pages=659–67 |pmid=16742587 |url=http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/16742587 |doi=10.1042/bj1070659}}</ref> Decreases in the NAD+/NADH ratio has been proposed carbohydrate metabolism-controlled cellular senescence mechanism.<ref>{{cite journal |author1=Lee, S.m. |author2=Dho, S.H. |author3=Maeng, J.S. |author4=Kim, J.Y. |author5=Kwon, K.S. |title=Cytosolic malate dehydrogenase regulates senescence in human fibroblasts |journal=Biogerontology |year=2012 |volume=13 |issue=5 |pages=525–36 |pmid=22971926 |url=https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/22971926 |doi=10.1007/s10522-012-9397-0}}</ref>

:Because of its parallel effects on these pathways, oxaloacetate was proposed as a CR mimetic.<ref name=Williams2009 /> In the short-lived roundworm ''Caenorhabditis elegans'', supplementing the medium with oxaloacetate does increase average life expectancy; it was unclear whether it had an effect on [[maximum lifespan]].<ref name=Williams2009 /><ref>{{cite journal |author1=Edwards, Clair B. |author2=Copes, Neil |author3=Brito, Andres G. |author4=Canfield, John |author5=Bradshaw, Patrick C. |title=Malate and Fumarate Extend Lifespan in Caenorhabditis elegans |journal=PLOS ONE |year=2013 |volume=8 |issue=3 |pages=e58345 |doi=10.1371/journal.pone.0058345 | pmc=3589421 |url=https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3589421|bibcode = 2013PLoSO...858345E |pmid=23472183}}</ref> However, when tested by two independent groups of scientists across four university laboratories, oxaloacetate supplements had no effect on lifespan in healthy laboratory mice.<ref name=Strong2013 /><ref name=Spindler2012>{{cite web|last1=Spindler|first1=S|title=Diet, Drugs, Supplements and Lifespan|url=http://healthactivator.com/member-home/members-module-1-2-2/stephen-spindler/|website=2012 Health Conference Series|publisher=HealthActivator|accessdate=9 April 2015}}</ref>

* [[Rimonabant]] (Acomplia) is an anti-obesity drug approved for use in the European Union but rejected approval by the FDA. This is an endocannabinoid-1 receptor blocker. Endocannabinoids are cannabis-like chemicals that stimulate appetite and also regulate energy balance. Overstimulation of the endoannabinoid receptor in the hypothalamus promotes appetite and stimulates lipogenesis. It also blocks the beneficial actions of [[adiponectin]]. Rimonabant inhibits these and so it reduces appetite, balances energy, and increases adiponectin, which reduces intra-abdominal fat. It improves lipid profile, glucose tolerance, and waist measurement. Therefore, it has similar effects as CR.{{Citation needed|date=March 2009}}
*[[Lipoic Acid]] (α-Lipoic Acid, Alpha Lipoic Acid, or ALA) has failed to extend lifespan in normal mice or rats in numerous studies, either alone<ref name=Lee2004>{{cite journal|author=Lee CK, Pugh TD, Klopp RG, Edwards J, Allison DB, Weindruch R, Prolla TA|title=The impact of alpha-lipoic acid, coenzyme Q10 and caloric restriction on life span and gene expression patterns in mice|journal=Free Radic Biol Med|date=Apr 15, 2004|volume=36|issue=8|pages=1043–57|pmid=15059645|doi=10.1016/j.freeradbiomed.2004.01.015}}</ref><ref name=Merry2008>{{cite journal|author=Merry BJ, Kirk AJ, Goyns MH|title=Dietary lipoic acid supplementation can mimic or block the effect of dietary restriction on life span|journal=Mech Ageing Dev|date=June 2008|volume=129|issue=6|pages=341–8|pmid=18486188|doi=10.1016/j.mad.2008.04.004}}</ref> or as part of combination therapy.<ref>{{cite journal|author1=Spindler SR|author2=Mote PL|title=Screening candidate longevity therapeutics using gene-expression arrays|journal=Gerontology|year=2007|volume=53|issue=5|pages=306–21|pmid=17570924|doi=10.1159/000103924}}</ref><ref name=Spindler2014>{{cite journal|author1=Spindler SR|author2=Mote PL|author3=Flegal JM|title=Lifespan effects of simple and complex nutraceutical combinations fed isocalorically to mice|journal=Age (Dordr)|date=Dec 2013|volume=Online First|doi=10.1007/s11357-013-9609-9|pmid=24370781|issue=2|pages=705–718}}</ref>
*[[2-deoxy-D-glucose]], or 2DG. 2-Deoxyglucose was the first agent pursued as a possible CRM.<ref name=Lane1998 /><ref name=Ingram&Roth2011 /><ref name=Minor2010>{{cite journal|author=Minor RK, Smith DL Jr, Sossong AM, Kaushik S, Poosala S, Spangler EL, Roth GS, Lane M, Allison DB, de Cabo R, Ingram DK, Mattison JA|title=Chronic ingestion of 2-deoxy-D-glucose induces cardiac vacuolization and increases mortality in rats|journal=Toxicol Appl Pharmacol|date=Mar 15, 2010|volume=243|issue=3|pages=332–9|doi=10.1016/j.taap.2009.11.025|pmid=20026095|accessdate=26 September 2013|pmc=2830378}}</ref> This compound inhibits [[glycolysis]], and can mimic some of the physiological effects of CR, in particular increased insulin sensitivity, reduced glucose levels, reduced body temperature, and other biochemical changes.<ref name=Lane1998 /><ref name=Minor2010 /> It was reported to extend the lives of ''C. elegans'' worms;<ref name = glucose_restriction>{{cite journal |author=Schulz TJ, Zarse K, Voigt A, Urban N, Birringer M, Ristow M |title=Glucose restriction extends Caenorhabditis elegans life span by inducing mitochondrial respiration and increasing oxidative stress |journal=Cell Metab. |volume=6 |issue=4 |pages=280–93 |year=2007 |pmid=17908557 |doi=10.1016/j.cmet.2007.08.011}}</ref> however, studies in different strains of rats found that 2DG did not extend lifespan at several tested doses, and exhibited toxic effects<ref name=Minor2010 /> "Histopathological analysis of the hearts revealed increasing vacuolarization of cardiac myocytes with dose, and tissue staining revealed the vacuoles were free of both glycogen and lipid."<ref name=Minor2010 />
*It has been suggested that [[rapamycin]], a drug that inhibits the [[Mammalian target of rapamycin|mechanistic Target Of Rapamycin]] (mTOR) pathway, might be a CR mimetic.<ref name=Ingram&Roth2011 /><ref name=Stanfel2009>{{cite journal|author1=Stanfel MN|author2=Shamieh LS|author3=Kaeberlein M|author4=Kennedy BK|title=The TOR pathway comes of age|journal=Biochim Biophys Acta|date=Oct 2009|volume=1790|issue=10|pages=1067–74|doi=10.1016/j.bbagen.2009.06.007|pmid=19539012|url=http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0304416509001731|pmc=3981532|accessdate=8 July 2014}}</ref> based on the responsiveness of [[mTORC1]] activity to nutrient availability; the fact that mTOR activity is inhibited by CR; the fact that genetically inhibiting mTOR signaling extends [[maximum lifespan]] in invertebrate animals, and pharmacologically inhibiting mTOR with rapamycin extends maximum lifespan in both invertebrates and mice.<ref name="Miller2010" /><ref name=Stanfel2009 /><ref name=Harrison2009>{{cite journal
| author = Harrison DE, Strong R, Sharp ZD
| date = 8 July 2009
| pages = 392–5
| issue = 7253
| volume = 460 | title = Rapamycin fed late in life extends lifespan in genetically heterogeneous mice
| pmid = 19587680
| journal = Nature
| pmc = 2786175
| doi = 10.1038/nature08221
| laysummary = http://www.timesonline.co.uk/tol/life_and_style/health/article6669805.ece
| laysource = The Times
| laydate = 2009-07-08
| bibcode = 2009Natur.460..392H
| last2 = Strong
| last3 = Sharp
| last4 = Nelson
| last5 = Astle
| last6 = Flurkey
| last7 = Nadon
| last8 = Wilkinson
| last9 = Frenkel
| last10 = Carter
| last11 = Pahor
| last12 = Javors
| last13 = Fernandez
| last14 = Miller
|display-authors=etal}}
</ref> While knocking out elements of the mTOR cascade seems to block the lifespan effects of rapamycin in invertebrate animals,<ref name=Stanfel2009 /> surprisingly the effects of CR and rapamycin on metabolism and gene expression exhibit substantial differences in mice,<ref name=Miller2014>{{cite journal|author1=Miller RA|author2=Harrison DE|author3=Astle CM|author4=Fernandez E|author5=Flurkey K|author6=Han M|author7=Javors MA|author8=Li X|author9=Nadon NL|author10=Nelson JF|author11=Pletcher S|author12=Salmon AB|author13=Sharp ZD|author14=Van Roekel S|author15=Winkleman L|author16=Strong R|title=Rapamycin-Mediated Lifespan Increase in Mice is Dose and Sex-Dependent and Appears Metabolically Distinct from Dietary Restriction|journal=Aging Cell|date=Jun 2014|volume=13|issue=3|pages=468–77|doi=10.1111/acel.12194|pmid=24341993|url=http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/acel.12194/full|accessdate=8 July 2014|pmc=4032600}}</ref><ref name=Yu2014>{{cite journal|author1=Yu Z|author2=Wang R|author3=Fok WC|author4=Coles A|author5=Salmon AB|author6=Pérez VI|title=Rapamycin and Dietary Restriction Induce Metabolically Distinctive Changes in Mouse Liver|journal=J Gerontol A Biol Sci Med Sci|date=April 2014|volume=70|issue=4|pages=410–20|doi=10.1093/gerona/glu053|pmid=24755936}}</ref><ref name=Fok2014>{{cite journal|author1=Fok WC|author2=Bokov A|author3=Gelfond J|author4=Yu Z|author5=Zhang Y|author6=Doderer M|author7=Chen Y|author8=Javors M|author9=Wood WH 3rd|author10=Zhang Y|author11=Becker KG|author12=Richardson A|author13=Pérez VI|title=Combined treatment of rapamycin and dietary restriction has a larger effect on the transcriptome and metabolome of liver|journal=Aging Cell|date=Apr 2014|volume=13|issue=2|pages=311–9|doi=10.1111/acel.12175|pmid=24304444}}</ref> with evidence suggesting that the mechanisms of the two anti-aging therapies may be in large part distinct and possibly additive.<ref name=Yu2014 /><ref name=Fok2014 />

Other candidate CRM are:

* [[Peroxisome proliferator-activated receptor gamma]] inhibitors, such as [[Rosiglitazone]] and Gugulipids, working as insulin sensitizers, making fat cells more repsonsive to insuline by binding to the their PPAR receptors
* Agents that modulate [[sirtuin]]s (called STAC –[[sirtuin-activating compound]]s), for example, [[fisetin]]
* Exanadin ([[exenatide]]), a [[glucagon-like peptide-1]] (GLP-1)modulator, extracted from the salvia of the [[Gila monster]] belongs to the group of incretin mimetics, facilitating glucose control.
* [[Adiponectin]] (together with [[leptin]], it regulates adipose tissue metabolism. It is activated by PPAR inhibitors such as rosiglitazone)
* [[Acipimox]]
* [[Hydroxycitrate]]
* [[Dipeptidyl peptidase 4]] (DPP-4) inhibitors
* [[Iodoacetate]]<ref name=Ingram&Roth2011 />
* [[Mannoheptulose]] (glycolytic inhibitor)<ref name=Ingram&Roth2011 />
* Modulators of [[neuropeptide Y]] (NPY)
* 4-Phenylbutyrate (PBA)
* Gymnemoside (modulates glucose absorption)

==References==
{{Research help|Med}}
<references/>

==External links==
*[http://www.cron-web.org/cr-mimetics.html A List of Potential CR Mimetics]
*[http://www.antiaging-systems.com/articles/114-calorie-restriction-mimetics An article with full details, written by Dr [[Marios Kyriazis]]]

{{DEFAULTSORT:Caloric Restriction Mimetic}}
[[Category:Biogerontology]]

Canadian National Vimy Memorial

2016-03-06T13:26:08Z

Hazard-Bot: Bot: Adding {{Research help|Mil}}; please leave feedback/comments at Wikipedia talk:Research help #ResHelp

{{Use dmy dates|date=January 2013}}{{Infobox Military Memorial
|name = Canadian National Vimy Memorial Mémorial national du Canada à Vimy
|body = [[Veterans Affairs Canada]] [[Commonwealth War Graves Commission]]
|image = [[File:Vimy Memorial - Allward design submission.jpg|300px|alt=A black and white drawing of a white limestone memorial built on the top of a hill. The memorial has a large front wall with rising steps on each end. Two large pylons of stone rise from a platform at the top of the wall.]]
|caption = Walter Allward's memorial design submission
|commemorates = First World War Canadian dead and missing, presumed dead, in France.
|unveiled = 26 July 1936 By King [[Edward VIII]]
|coordinates = {{coord|50|22|46|N|02|46|25|E|scale:2500|display=title}}
|nearest_town = [[Vimy]], [[Pas-de-Calais]], [[France]]
|designer = [[Walter Seymour Allward]]
|inscription = {{lang-en|To the valour of their countrymen in the Great War and in memory of their sixty thousand dead this monument is raised by the people of Canada.}} {{lang-fr|À la vaillance de ses fils pendant la Grande Guerre et en mémoire de ses soixante mille morts, le peuple canadien a élevé ce monument.}}
|commemorated = 11,169{{refn|It is not possible to remove the names of those whose bodies have been discovered or identified since the construction of the memorial. As a result, there are a number of individuals who are commemorated on both the memorial and by a headstone.{{sfn|Reynolds|2008|pp=57–68}} Although 11,285 names appear on the memorial only 11,169 are commemorated as missing.|group="Note"}}
|source={{cwgc cemetery|87900}}

{{Designation list |embed=yes |designation1=NHSC |designation1_offname=Vimy Ridge National Historic Site of Canada |designation1_date=1996 }}

}}
The '''Canadian National Vimy Memorial''' is a memorial site in [[France]] dedicated to the memory of [[Canadian Expeditionary Force]] members killed during the [[First World War]]. It also serves as the place of commemoration for First World War Canadian soldiers killed or presumed dead in France who have no known grave. The monument is the centrepiece of a {{convert|100|ha|acre|adj=on}} preserved battlefield park that encompasses a portion of the ground over which the [[Canadian Corps]] made their assault during the initial [[Battle of Vimy Ridge]] offensive of the [[Battle of Arras (1917)|Battle of Arras]].

The Battle of Vimy Ridge was the first occasion on which all four divisions of the Canadian Expeditionary Force participated in a battle as a cohesive formation, and it became a Canadian national symbol of achievement and sacrifice. France ceded to Canada perpetual use of a portion of land on Vimy Ridge on the understanding that Canada use the land to establish a battlefield park and memorial. Wartime tunnels, [[Trench warfare|trenches]], craters, and unexploded munitions still honeycomb the grounds of the site, which remains largely closed off for reasons of public safety. Along with preserved trench lines, a number of other memorials and cemeteries are contained within the park.

The memorial took designer [[Walter Seymour Allward]] 11 years to conceive and see built. King [[Edward VIII]] unveiled the memorial on 26 July 1936, in the presence of [[President of France|French President]] [[Albert Lebrun]], 50,000 or more Canadian and French veterans, and their families. Following an extensive multi-year restoration, Queen [[Elizabeth II]] rededicated the monument on 9 April 2007, during a ceremony commemorating the 90th anniversary of the battle. The site is maintained by [[Veterans Affairs Canada]]. This site and the [[Beaumont-Hamel Newfoundland Memorial]] are the only two [[National Historic Sites of Canada]] outside of Canada.

==Background==

===Topography===
Vimy Ridge is a gradually rising [[escarpment]] on the western edge of the Douai Plains, eight kilometres northeast of [[Arras]]. The ridge gradually rises on its western side, dropping more quickly on the eastern side.{{sfn|Farr|2007|p=147}} The ridge is approximately seven kilometres in length and culminates at an elevation of {{convert|145|m|ft}} above [[sea level]], or {{convert|60|m|ft}} above the Douai Plains, providing a natural unobstructed view for tens of kilometres in all directions.{{sfn|Farr|2007|p=147}}{{sfn|Rose|Nathanail|2000|loc=pp. 396–397, Fig. 14.3}}

===Early conflicts on site===
[[Image:VCRichardBasilBrandramJones.jpg|right|upright|thumb|[[Victoria Cross]] recipient Lieutenant [[Richard Basil Brandram Jones|Richard Jones]]|alt=Head and shoulders of a young British officer. He is Caucasian with brown hair that is parted to the right. He is wearing a military uniform with the Victoria Cross pinned to the left breast.]]
The ridge fell under German control in October 1914, during the [[Race to the Sea]], as the Franco-British and German forces continually attempted to outflank each other through northeastern France.{{sfn|Boire|2007|pp=52–53}} The [[Tenth Army (France)|French Tenth Army]] attempted to dislodge the Germans from the region during the [[Second Battle of Artois]] in May 1915 by attacking their positions at Vimy Ridge and [[Notre Dame de Lorette]]. During the attack, the French 1st Moroccan Division briefly captured the height of the ridge, where the Vimy memorial is currently located, but was unable to hold it owing to a lack of reinforcements.{{sfn|Boire|2007|p=56}} The French made another attempt during the [[Third Battle of Artois]] in September 1915, but were once again unsuccessful in capturing the top of the ridge.{{sfn|Tucker|1996|p=68}} The French suffered approximately 150,000 casualties in their attempts to gain control of Vimy Ridge and surrounding territory.{{sfn|Tucker|1996|p=8}}

The [[United Kingdom|British]] XVII Corps relieved the French Tenth Army from the sector in February 1916.{{sfn|Boire|1992|p=15}} On 21 May 1916, the German infantry attacked the British lines along a {{convert|1800|m|yd|adj=on}} front in an effort to force them from positions along the base of the ridge.{{sfn|Samuels|1996|pp=200–202}} The Germans captured several British-controlled tunnels and [[Mining (military)|mine]] craters before halting their advance and entrenching their positions.{{sfn|Samuels|1996|pp=200–202}}{{refn|The Germans grew uneasy about the proximity of the British positions to the top of the ridge, particularly after the increase in British tunnelling and counter mining activities.{{sfn|Samuels|1996|pp=200–202}}{{sfn|Sheldon|2008|p=149}}|group="Note"}} Temporary Lieutenant [[Richard Basil Brandram Jones]] was posthumously awarded the [[Victoria Cross]] for his ultimately unsuccessful defence of the Broadmarsh Crater during the attack.<ref>{{cite news |title=Victoria Cross List Tells Heroic Deeds |url=http://query.nytimes.com/mem/archive-free/pdf?_r=1&res=9504E7D81E3FE233A25752C2A96E9C946796D6CF |newspaper=[[New York Times]]|format=PDF |publisher=The New York Times Company |date=21 August 1916 |accessdate=17 September 2009}}</ref>{{refn|The Broadmarsh Crater remains visible and is located within the grounds of the Canadian National Vimy Memorial Park.|group="Note"}} British counter-attacks on 22 May did not manage to change the situation.{{sfn|Samuels|1996|pp=200–202}} The Canadian Corps relieved the British IV Corps stationed along the western slopes of Vimy Ridge in October 1916.{{sfn|Farr|2007|p=147}}

===Battle of Vimy Ridge===
{{main|Battle of Vimy Ridge}}

The Battle of Vimy Ridge was the first instance in which all four Canadian divisions participated in a battle together, as a cohesive formation.{{sfn|Cook|2007|p=120}} The nature and size of the planned Canadian Corps assault necessitated support and resources beyond its normal operational capabilities.{{sfn|Nicholson|1962|p=229}} Consequently, the British [[5th Infantry Division (United Kingdom)|5th Infantry Division]] and supplementary artillery, engineer and labour units reinforced the four Canadian divisions already in place. The [[24th Division (United Kingdom)|24th British Division]] of [[I Corps (United Kingdom)|I Corps]] supported the Canadian Corps along its northern flank while the XVII Corps did so to the south.{{sfn|Turner|2005|p=39}} The ad hoc {{lang|de|''Gruppe Vimy''}} formation, based under I Bavarian Reserve Corps commander {{lang|de|''General der Infanterie''}} [[Karl von Fasbender|Karl Ritter von Fasbender]], was the principal defending formation with three divisions responsible for manning the frontline defences opposite the Canadian Corps.{{sfn|Williams|1983|p=149}}

[[Image:Plan of Attack Vimy Ridge.jpg|thumb|left|upright|250px|The Canadian Corps plan of attack outlining the four objective lines – Black, Red, Blue, and Brown|alt=Diagram of the battle illustrating the positions for each of the Canadian Corps division and brigades. The map shows the westerly direction of the attack, up an over the topography of the ridge.]]
The attack began at 5:30 am on [[Easter Monday]], 9 April 1917. Light [[field gun]]s laid down a [[Barrage (artillery)|barrage]] that advanced in predetermined increments, often {{convert|91|m|yd}} every three minutes, while medium and heavy [[howitzer]]s established a series of standing barrages against known defensive systems further ahead.
{{sfn|Cook|2007|p=117}} The [[1st Canadian Division|1st]], [[2nd Canadian Division|2nd]], and [[3rd Canadian Division]]s quickly captured their first objectives.{{sfn|Nicholson|1962|p=254}} The [[4th Canadian Division]] encountered a great deal of trouble during its advance and was unable to complete its first objective until some hours later.{{sfn|Nicholson|1962|p=254}} The 1st, 2nd, and 3rd Canadian Division captured their second objective by approximately 7:30 am.{{sfn|Nicholson|1962|p=255}}{{sfn|Campbell|2007|pp=178–179}}{{sfn|Hayes|2007|p=200}} The failure of the 4th Canadian Division to capture the top of the ridge delayed further advances and forced the 3rd Canadian Division to expend resources establishing a defensive line to its north.{{sfn|Hayes|2007|pp=202–203}} Reserve units from the 4th Canadian Division renewed the attack on the German positions on the top of the ridge and eventually forced the German troops holding the southwestern portion of Hill 145 to withdraw.{{sfn|Godefroy|2007|p=220}}{{refn|German records indicate that the defending German units withdrew because they had fully run out of ammunition, mortar rounds, and grenades.{{sfn|Sheldon|2008|p=309}}|group="Note"}}

On the morning of 10 April, Canadian Corps commander [[Lieutenant-General (United Kingdom)|Lieutenant-General]] [[Julian H.G. Byng, Viscount Byng of Vimy|Julian Byng]] moved up three fresh [[brigade]]s to support the continued advance.{{sfn|Campbell|2007|p=179}} The fresh units leapfrogged units already in place and captured the third objective line, including Hill 135 and the town of [[Thélus]], by 11:00 am.{{sfn|Campbell|2007|pp=179–181}} By 2:00 pm both the 1st and 2nd Canadian Divisions reported capturing their final objectives.{{sfn|Campbell|2007|p=182}} By this point the "Pimple", a heavily defended knoll west of the town of [[Givenchy-en-Gohelle]], was the only German position remaining on Vimy Ridge.{{sfn|Godefroy|2007|p=220}} On 12 April, the 10th Canadian Brigade attacked and quickly overcame the hastily entrenched German troops, with the support of artillery and the 24th British Division.{{sfn|Nicholson|1962|p=263}} By nightfall on 12 April, the Canadian Corps was in firm control of the ridge.{{sfn|Nicholson|1962|p=263}} The Canadian Corps suffered 10,602 casualties: 3,598 killed and 7,004 wounded.{{sfn|Moran|2007|p=139}} The German Sixth Army suffered an unknown number of casualties, and around 4,000 men became [[prisoners of war]].<ref name=Gibbs>{{cite news| first=Philip |last=Gibbs |url=http://query.nytimes.com/gst/abstract.html?res=9904E2DE153AE433A25752C1A9629C946696D6CF |title=All of Vimy Ridge Cleared of Germans |newspaper=New York Times |publisher=The New York Times Company |format=PDF |date=11 April 1917 |accessdate=14 November 2009}}</ref>

Although the battle is not generally considered Canada's greatest military achievement, the image of national unity and achievement imbued the battle with considerable national significance for Canada.{{sfn|Inglis|1995|p=1}}{{sfn|Vance|1997|p=233}} According to Pierce, "the historical reality of the battle has been reworked and reinterpreted in a conscious attempt to give purpose and meaning to an event that came to symbolize Canada's coming of age as a nation."{{sfn|Pierce|1992|p=5}} The idea that Canada's identity and nationhood were born out of the battle is an opinion that is widely held in military and general histories of Canada.{{sfn|Inglis|1995|p=2}}{{sfn|Humphries|2007|p=66}}

==History==

===Selection===
{{see also|Canadian Battlefields Memorials Commission}}
[[Image:Canadian Battlefields Memorials Commission - Design Comp.jpg|thumb|right|Design competition submissions|alt=Approximately a dozen monument models sit on tables in a stone walled room.]]
In 1920, the Government of Canada announced that the [[Commonwealth War Graves Commission|Imperial War Graves Commission]] had awarded Canada eight sites—five in France and three in Belgium—on which to erect memorials.{{sfn|Busch|2003|p=205}}{{refn|The eight sites were Vimy, Bourlon Wood, Le Quesnel, Dury, and Courcelette in France and St. Julien, Hill 62 (Sanctuary Wood), and Passchendaele in Belgium.<ref name="VAC CBMC">{{cite web | title = Canadian Battlefields Memorials Committee | publisher = Veteran Affairs Canada | date = 25 March 2007 | url = http://www.veterans.gc.ca/eng/Memorials/can_battle_committee | accessdate =12 January 2008}}</ref>|group=Note}} Each site represented a significant Canadian engagement and the Canadian government initially decided that each battlefield be treated equally and commemorated with identical monuments.{{sfn|Busch|2003|p=205}} In September 1920, the Canadian government formed the [[Canadian Battlefields Memorials Commission]] to discuss the process and conditions for holding a memorial competition for the sites in Europe.{{sfn|Vance|1997|p=66}} The commission held its first meeting on 26 November 1920 and during this meeting decided that the [[architectural design competition]] would be open to all Canadian architects, designers, sculptors, and artists.<ref name="VAC CBMC"/> The jury consisted of [[Charles Herbert Reilly]] representing the [[Royal Institute of British Architects]], [[Paul Philippe Cret]] representing the [[Société centrale des architectes français]] and [[Frank Darling (architect)|Frank Darling]] representing the [[Royal Architectural Institute of Canada]].{{sfn|Hucker|2008|p=42}} Each jury member was a leader in the architectural field; Reilly was training students in design and development of war memorials and Cret had been selected by the United States to design national monuments in Europe.{{sfn|Hucker|2008|p=42}} Interested parties submitted 160 design drawings and the jury selected 17 submissions for consideration, commissioning each finalist to produce a plaster [[maquette]] of their respective design.<ref>{{cite web | title = Design Competition | publisher = Veteran Affairs Canada | date = 25 March 2007 | url = http://www.veterans.gc.ca/eng/memorials/france/vimy/sg/01_artwork/04_competition | accessdate =22 May 2013}}</ref> The jury recommended in a 10 September 1921 report to the commission that two of the designs be executed.{{sfn|Borestad|2008|p=33}} In October 1921, the commission formally selected the submission of [[Toronto]] sculptor and designer [[Walter Seymour Allward]] as the winner of the competition and that of Frederick Chapman Clemesha as runner-up.{{sfn|Vance|1997|p=66}} The complexity of Allward's design precluded the possibility of duplicating the design at each site.{{sfn|Vance|1997|p=67}} The approach of selecting one primary memorial ran counter to the recommendation of Canadian Battlefields Memorials Commission architectural advisor [[Percy Erskine Nobbs]], who had consistently expressed his preference for a series of smaller monuments.{{sfn|Borestad|2008|p=32}} The consensus however went in Allward's favour with his design receiving both public and critical approval.{{sfn|Borestad|2008|p=32}}{{refn|Critical approval included [[Group of Seven (artists)|Group of Seven]] artist [[A. Y. Jackson]] providing a supporting position in a letter published by [[Canadian Forum]].{{sfn|Borestad|2008|p=32}}|group="Note"}} The commission revised its initial plans and decided to build two distinctive memorials—those of Allward and Clemesha—and six smaller identical memorials.{{sfn|Vance|1997|p=67}}

[[File:Vimy Memorial - Design model.jpg|thumb|left|A design model of the memorial|alt=A white plaster design model of the Vimy Memorial from the front side, displayed against a black background.]]
At the outset, members of the commission debated where to build Allward's winning design.{{sfn|Vance|1997|p=66}} The jury's assessment was that Allward's submission was best suited to a "low hill rather than to a continuous and lofty bluff or cliff like Vimy Ridge".{{sfn|Borestad|2008|p=33}}{{sfn|Hucker|2008|p=42}} The commission committee initially took the position of placing the monument in Belgium on [[Hill 62 Memorial|Hill 62]], near the location of the [[Battle of Mont Sorrel]], as the site provided an imposing view.{{sfn|Pierce|1992|p=5}}{{sfn|Hucker|2007|p=283}} This however ran counter to the desires of the Prime Minister [[William Lyon Mackenzie King]] who, while speaking in the [[House of Commons of Canada]] in May 1922, argued in favour of placing the memorial at Vimy Ridge.{{sfn|Borestad|2008|p=33}} King's position received unanimous support from both sides of the House and, in the end, the commission selected Vimy Ridge as the preferred site.{{sfn|Vance|1997|pp=66–69}} The government announced its desire to acquire a more considerable tract of land along the ridge after the commission selected Vimy Ridge as the preferred location for Allward's design.{{sfn|Inglis|1995|p=61}} In the interval between the 1st and 2nd session of the [[14th Canadian Parliament]], [[Speaker of the Canadian House of Commons]] [[Rodolphe Lemieux]] went to France to negotiate the acquisition of more land.{{sfn|Inglis|1995|p=61}} On 5 December 1922, Lemieux concluded an agreement with France in which France granted Canada "freely and for all time" the use of {{convert|100|ha|acre}} of land on Vimy Ridge, in recognition of Canada's war effort.<ref name=DFAIT>{{cite web | title = Canada Treaty Information | publisher = Department of Foreign Affairs and International Trade | date = 26 February 2002 | url = http://www.treaty-accord.gc.ca/text-texte.aspx?id=102661 | accessdate =4 January 2008}}</ref> The only condition placed on the donation was that Canada use the land to erect a monument commemorating Canadian soldiers killed during the First World War and assume the responsibility for the maintenance of the memorial and the surrounding battlefield park.<ref name=DFAIT/>

===Memorial construction===
[[Image:Vimy Memorial - Foundation construction.jpg|thumb|right|alt=Scaffolding surrounds a half finished concrete foundation. Dozens of metal steel poles rise from the foundation. A dozen workmen are visible and involved in various construction tasks.|Laying the foundation of the memorial]]

Following the competition, Allward spent the remainder of 1921 and the Spring of 1922 preparing for his move to Europe.{{sfn|Borestad|2008|p=33}} After selling his home and studio, Allward finally departed for Belgium on 6 June 1922{{sfn|Borestad|2008|p=33}} and subsequently spent a number of months seeking a suitable studio in Belgium and then [[Paris]], though Allward eventually set up a studio in [[London]], [[England]].{{sfn|Borestad|2008|p=33}}

Allward had initially hoped to use white marble for the memorial's facing stone,{{sfn|Hucker|2008|p=42}} but Percy Nobbs suggested this would be a mistake because marble was unlikely to weather well in northern France and the memorial would have a "ghost like" appearance.{{sfn|Hucker|2008|p=42}} Alward undertook a tour of almost two years in an attempt to find stone of the right colour, texture, and luminosity.{{sfn|Hucker|2007|p=286}} He eventually found it in the ruins of the [[Diocletian's Palace]] at [[Split, Croatia]]; he observed that the palace had not weathered over the years, which Allward took as evidence of the stone's durability.{{sfn|Hucker|2007|p=286}} His choice—Seget limestone—came from an ancient Roman quarry located near [[Seget]], [[Croatia]].{{sfn|Fabijančić|2003|p=127}} The difficulties associated with the quarrying process, coupled with complicated transportation logistics, delayed delivery of the limestone, which consequently delayed construction of the memorial.{{sfn|Hucker|2007|p=286}} The first shipment of stone did not arrive at the site until 1927 and the larger blocks, intended for the human figures, did not begin to arrive until 1931.{{sfn|Hucker|2007|p=286}}

On Allward's urging the Canadian Battlefields Memorials Commission hired Oscar Faber, a Danish structural engineer, in 1924 to prepare foundation plans as well as provide general supervision of the foundation work.{{sfn|Hucker|2007|p=285}}{{sfn|Hucker|2008|p=43}} Faber had recently designed the substructure for the [[Menin Gate]] at Ypres and he selected a design that employed cast-in-place reinforced concrete to which the facing stone would be bonded.{{sfn|Hucker|2008|p=43}} Major Unwin Simson served as the principal Canadian engineer during the construction of the memorial and oversaw much of the daily operations at the site.{{sfn|Durflinger|2007|p=292}}{{sfn|Hucker|2007|p=286}} Allward moved to Paris in 1925 to supervise the construction of the monument and the carving of the sculptures.{{sfn|Pierce|1992|p=6}} Construction of the memorial commenced in 1925 and took eleven years to complete.<ref name="Fast Facts">{{cite web | title=The Battle of Vimy Ridge – Fast Facts | url=http://www.veterans.gc.ca/eng/memorials/france/vimy/battle | work=VAC Canada Remembers | publisher=Veterans Affairs Canada | date=n.d. | accessdate=22 May 2013}}</ref> The Imperial War Graves Commission concurrently employed French and British veterans to carry out the necessary roadwork and site landscaping.{{sfn|Pierce|1992|p=6}}

While awaiting the first delivery of stone, Simson noticed that the battlefield landscape features were beginning to deteriorate.{{sfn|Hucker|2007|p=286}} Seeing an opportunity to not only preserve a portion of the battlefield but also keep his staff occupied, Simson decided to preserve a short section of trench line as well make the Grange Subway more accessible.{{sfn|Hucker|2007|p=286}} Labourers rebuilt and preserved sections of sandbagged trench wall, on both the Canadian and German sides of the Grange crater group, in concrete.{{sfn|Hucker|2007|p=286}} The workforce also built a new concrete entrance for the Grange Subway and, after excavating a portion of the tunnel system, installed electric lighting.{{sfn|Hucker|2007|p=286}}

[[Image:Vimy Memorial - half finished statue and plaster models.jpg|left|thumb|Statue carving in progress|alt=The partially completed statue of a reclined woman sits to the right of a half sized model of the same statue. It appears the work is being conducted inside a temporary structure.]]
Allward chose a relatively new construction method for the monument; limestone bonded to a cast concrete frame. A foundation bed of 11,000 tonnes of concrete, reinforced with hundreds of tonnes of steel, served as the support bed for the memorial. The memorial base and twin pylons contained almost 6,000 tonnes of Seget limestone.<ref name=Picard>{{cite news | last=Picard | first=Andréa | title=Restoring Loss at Vimy |periodical =Canadian Architect | publication-date=May 2006 | url=http://www.canadianarchitect.com/news/restoring-loss-at-vimy/1000204056/ |publisher=Business Information Group |accessdate =1 August 2009|ref=harv}}</ref> Sculptors carved the 20 human figures on site, from large blocks of stone. The carvers used half-size plaster models produced by Allward in his studio, now on display at the [[Canadian War Museum]], and an instrument called a [[pantograph]] to reproduce the figures at the proper scale.{{sfn|Busch|2003|p=206}} The carvers conducted their work year-round, inside temporary studios built around each figure.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.veterans.gc.ca/eng/memorials/france/vimy/vmemory | title=Design and Construction of the Vimy Ridge Memorial |date=12 August 1998|accessdate=22 May 2013 |publisher=Veterans Affairs Canada}}</ref> The inclusion of the names of those killed in France with no known grave was not part of the original design and Allward was unhappy when the government asked him to include them.{{sfn|Duffy|2008|p=197}}{{refn|The government was acting on behalf of a request by the Imperial War Graves Commission which was tasked with commemorating all killed and missing Commonwealth soldiers and was, as a result, prepared to share in the cost of the memorial.{{sfn|Duffy|2008|p=197}}|group="Note"}} Allward argued that the inclusion of names was not part of the original commissioning.{{sfn|Duffy|2008|p=197}} Through a letter to Canadian Battlefields Memorials Commission in October 1927, Allward indicated his intention to relegate the names of the missing to pavement stones around the monument.{{sfn|Duffy|2008|p=197}} The collective dismay and uproar of the commission forced Allward to relent and incorporate the names of the missing on the memorial walls.{{sfn|Duffy|2008|p=197}} The task of inscribing the names did not begin until the early 1930s and employed a typeface that Allward designed specifically for the monument.{{sfn|Hucker|2007|p=286}}

===Pilgrimage and unveiling===
[[File:1936 Vimy pilgrimage passport.jpg|thumb|right|upright|Special passport issued by Canada for the 1936 Vimy pilgrimage|alt=A Passport with the Canadian coat of arms in the middle and text in both French and English identifying the book as a passport for the Vimy Pigrimage]]

In 1919, the year after the war ended, around 60,000 British tourists and mourners made pilgrimages to the Western Front.{{sfn|Brown|Cook|2011|p=40}} The transatlantic voyage was however longer and more expensive from Canada.{{sfn|Brown|Cook|2011|p=40}} Many attempts to organize large pilgrimages failed, and journeys overseas were largely made individually or in small, unofficial groups.{{sfn|Brown|Cook|2011|p=40}} The delegates of the 1928 national convention of the [[Canadian Legion]] passed a unanimous resolution asking that a pilgrimage be organized to the Western Front battlefields. A plan began to take form wherein the Legion aimed to coordinate the pilgrimage with the unveiling of the Vimy memorial, which at the time was expected to be completed in 1931 or 1932.{{sfn|Brown|Cook|2011|p=40}} Due to construction delays with the memorial, it was not until July 1934 that the Canadian Legion announced a pilgrimage to former battlefield sites in conjunction with the unveiling of the memorial. Although the exact date of the memorial unveiling was still not set, the Legion invited former service members to make tentative reservations with their headquarters in Ottawa.{{sfn|Brown|Cook|2011|p=40}} The response from veterans and their families was enthusiastic—1200 inquiries by November 1934.{{sfn|Brown|Cook|2011|p=42}} The Legion presumptuously announced that the memorial would be unveiled on [[Canada Day|Dominion Day]], 1 July 1936, even though the government still did not know when it would be completed.{{sfn|Brown|Cook|2011|p=42}}

For event planning purposes the Legion and the government established areas for which each was responsible. The government was responsible for selection of the official delegation and the program for the official unveiling of the memorial. The Legion was responsible for the more challenging task of organizing the pilgrimage. For the Legion this included planning meals, accommodations and transportation for what was at the time the largest single peacetime movement of people from Canada to Europe.{{sfn|Brown|Cook|2011|p=41}} The Legion took the position that the pilgrimage would be funded by its members without subsidies or financial aid from Canadian taxpayers, and by early 1935 they had established that the price of the 3½-week trip, inclusive of all meals, accommodation, health insurance, and sea and land transportation would be {{CAD|160}} per person (${{formatnum:{{Inflation|CA|160|1935|r=2}}}} in present terms). Indirect assistance came in a number of forms. The government waived passport fees and made a special Vimy passport available to pilgrims at no extra cost.{{sfn|MacIntyre|1967|p=197}} The government and a number of private sector firms also provided paid leave for their participating employees.{{sfn|Brown|Cook|2011|p=42}} It was not until April 1936 that the government was prepared to publicly commit to an unveiling date, 26 July 1936.{{sfn|Brown|Cook|2011|p=42}} On 16 July 1936, the five transatlantic liners, escorted by {{HMCS|Champlain|1919|6}} and {{HMCS|Saguenay|D79|6}}, departed the [[Port of Montreal]] with approximately 6,200 passengers and arrived in [[Le Havre]] on 24 and 25 July.{{refn|The ships were {{SS|Montrose|1922|6}}, {{SS|Montcalm}}, SS ''Antonia'', [[RMS Ascania (1923)|SS ''Ascania'']] and [[RMS Empress of France (1928)|SS ''Duchess of Bedford'']].{{sfn|Brown|Cook|2011|p=42}}|group="Note"}}{{sfn|Brown|Cook|2011|p=45}}{{sfn|Reynolds|2007|p=68}} The limited accommodation made it necessary for the Legion to lodge pilgrims in nine cities throughout northern France and Belgium and employ 235 buses to move the pilgrims between various locations.{{sfn|Brown|Cook|2011|p=45}}
{{rquote|right|''It is an inspired expression in stone, chiselled by a skilful Canadian hand, of Canada's salute to her fallen sons.''|King Edward VIII referring to the memorial during his 1936 speech.<ref>{{cite web|title=John Mould Diaries : Return to Vimy |url=http://www.archives.gov.on.ca/en/explore/online/mould/vimy.aspx |accessdate=4 January 2010 |date=n.d. |publisher=[[Archives of Ontario]]}}</ref>}}
[[File:HM King Edward VIII unveiling the figure of Canada on the Vimy Ridge Memorial.jpg|thumb|left|King [[Edward VIII]] unveiling the figure ''Canada Bereft'' on the Vimy Ridge Memorial|alt=A figure standing on flag covered stage located in from of the statue of Canada Bereft.]]

On 26 July 1936, the day of the ceremony, pilgrims spent the morning and early afternoon exploring the landscape of the memorial park before congregating at the monument. For the ceremony, sailors from HMCS ''Saguenay'' provided the [[guard of honour]]. Also present were The Royal Canadian Horse Artillery Band, French army engineers, and French-Moroccan cavalry who had fought on the site during the [[Second Battle of Artois]].{{sfn|Brown|Cook|2011|p=46}} The ceremony itself was broadcast live by the [[Canadian Radio Broadcasting Commission]] over [[shortwave radio]], with facilities of the [[British Broadcasting Corporation]] transmitting the ceremony to Canada.{{sfn|Brown|Cook|2011|p=46}} Senior Canadian, British, and European officials, including French President Albert Lebrun, and over 50,000 Canadian, British, and French veterans and their families attended the event.<ref name="Fast Facts"/> Absent, however, was Canadian Prime Minister William Lyon Mackenzie King, it being well understood that he was generally not comfortable around veterans and felt it more appropriate for a war veteran in Cabinet to act as minister in attendance.{{sfn|Brown|Cook|2011|p=42}}

Before the ceremony began, King [[Edward VIII]], present in his capacity as [[Monarchy of Canada|king of Canada]], inspected the guard of honour, was introduced to the honoured guests, and spent approximately half an hour speaking with veterans in the crowd.{{sfn|Brown|Cook|2011|p=47}} Two [[Royal Air Force]] and two [[French Air Force]] squadrons flew over the monument and dipped their wings in salute.{{sfn|Brown|Cook|2011|p=46}} The ceremony itself began with prayers from chaplains representing the [[Church of England]], the [[United Church of Canada]], and the [[Roman Catholic Church]].{{sfn|Brown|Cook|2011|p=47}} [[Ernest Lapointe]], [[Minister of Justice (Canada)|Canadian Minister of Justice]], spoke first,{{sfn|Brown|Cook|2011|p=47}} followed by Edward VIII, who, in both French and English, thanked France for its generosity and assured those assembled that Canada would never forget its war missing and dead. The King then pulled the [[Union Flag|Royal Union Flag]] from the central figure of ''Canada Bereft'' and the military band played the [[Last Post]].{{sfn|Morton|Wright|1987|p=221}}{{sfn|Brown|Cook|2011|p=47}}{{sfn|Bell|Bousfield|Toffoli|2007|p=139}} The ceremony was one of the King's few official duties before he [[Edward VIII abdication crisis|abdicated the throne]].<ref name=Foot>{{Cite news| last=Foot| first=Richard| title=Vimy memorial had a turbulent history of its own| newspaper=The Vancouver Sun| publication-place=Vancouver | date=4 April 2007| page=A4}}</ref> The pilgrimage continued, and most participants toured [[Ypres]] before being taken to London to be hosted by the [[British Legion]].{{sfn|Brown|Cook|2011|p=51}} One-third of the pilgrims left from London for Canada on 1 August, while the majority returned to France as guests of the government for another week of touring before going home.{{sfn|Brown|Cook|2011|p=52}}

===Second World War===
[[File:Hitler touring Vimy Memorial in June 1940.jpg|thumb|upright|Hitler touring the Vimy Memorial in 1940|alt=A group of men dressed in Nazi German soldier, front and centre is Adolf Hitler. The twin pylons of the memorial are clearly displayed in the background.]]
The general safety of the memorial was a cause for concern for the Canadian government. In 1939, the increased threat of conflict with [[Nazi Germany]] amplified the Canadian government's level of concern. Canada could do little more than protect the sculptures and the bases of the pylons with sandbags and await developments. When war did break out, the [[British Expeditionary Force (World War II)|British Expeditionary Force]] deployed to France and assumed responsibility for the Arras sector, which included Vimy.{{sfn|Durflinger|2007|p=292}} In late May 1940, following the British retreat in the aftermath of the [[Battle of Arras (1940)|Battle of Arras]], the status and condition of the memorial became unknown.{{sfn|Durflinger|2007|p=293}} The Germans took control of the site and held the site's caretaker, George Stubbs, in an [[Ilag]] internment camp for Allied civilians in [[Ilag#St.Denis|St. Denis]], France.{{sfn|Durflinger|2007|p=300}} The rumoured destruction of the Vimy Memorial, either during the fighting or at the hands of the Germans, was widely reported in both Canada and the United Kingdom.{{sfn|Durflinger|2007|p=294}} The rumours eventually led the German [[Ministry of Public Enlightenment and Propaganda]] to publish denials.{{sfn|Durflinger|2007|p=297}} [[Adolf Hitler]], who reportedly admired the memorial for its peaceful nature was photographed by the press while personally touring it and the preserved trenches on 2 June 1940 to demonstrate the memorial had not been desecrated.<ref>{{cite journal|title=The Canadian Unknown Soldier |journal=After The Battle |issue=109 |publisher=Battle of Britain Intl. Ltd. |issn=0306-154X}}</ref> The undamaged state of the memorial was not conclusively confirmed until September 1944 when the [[Welsh Guards]] recaptured Vimy Ridge.{{sfn|Durflinger|2007|p=298}}

===Post-war years===
Immediately following the Second World War very little attention was paid to the Battle of Vimy Ridge or the Vimy Memorial, having been overshadowed by more contemporary events.{{sfn|Inglis|1995|p=76}} ''The Legionary'', the magazine of the Canadian Legion, and the [[Winnipeg Free Press]] were the only publications to note the 35th anniversary of the battle in 1952.{{sfn|Inglis|1995|p=79}} The 40th anniversary in 1957 receiving even less notice with only the [[Halifax Herald]] making any mention.{{sfn|Inglis|1995|p=80}} Interests in commemoration remained low in the early-1960 but increased in 1967 with the fiftieth anniversary of the battle, paired with [[Canadian Centennial]].{{sfn|Inglis|1995|p=80}} This culminating in a heavily attended ceremony at the memorial in April 1967 that was broadcast live on television.{{sfn|Inglis|1995|p=92}} Commemoration of the battle decreased once again throughout the 1970s and only returned in force with the 125th anniversary of [[Canadian Confederation]] and the 75th anniversary of the battle in 1992, the anniversary receiving widespread press coverage.{{sfn|Inglis|1995|p=92}} The 1997 ceremony at the memorial was attended by Canadian Prime Minister [[Brian Mulroney]] and at least 5000 youth.{{sfn|Inglis|1995|p=92}}<ref>{{cite news |title=Vimy Ridge 'sacrifice' forged unity PM declares |newspaper=Toronto Star |page=A3 |first=Patrick |last=Doyle |date=10 April 1992}}</ref>{{sfn|Inglis|1995|p=107}} Subsequent smaller scale ceremonies were held at the memorial in 1997, for the 80th anniversary, and in 2002, for the 85th.<ref>{{cite magazine |url=https://legionmagazine.com/en/1997/09/return-to-the-ridge/ |title=Return To The Ridge |date=1 September 1997 |magazine=Legion Magazine |first=Tom |last=MacGregor |publisher=Royal Canadian Legion}}</ref><ref>{{cite news|title=Ceremony marks 85th anniversary of Vimy Ridge battle |publisher=Canadian Press |date=7 April 2002}}</ref>

===Restoration and rededication===
[[Image:Vimy Memorial - panel of names before restoration.jpg|thumb|right|A name panel on the memorial damaged by mineral deposits.|alt=Names carved into a wall are covered in unidentified mineral deposits. Many of the names are no longer readable or are heavily distorted.]]

By the end of the century, the large number of repairs undertaken since the memorial's construction had left a patchwork of materials and colours, and a disconcerting pattern of damage from water intrusion at the joints.{{sfn|Smith|2008|p=52}} In May 2001, the Government of Canada announced the [[Canadian Battlefield Memorials Restoration Project]], a major $30 million [[Canadian dollar]] restoration project to restore Canada's memorial sites in France and Belgium, in order to maintain and present them in a respectful and dignified manner.<ref name=Valpy>{{cite news |first=Michael |last=Valpy | title=Setting a legend in stone |url=http://v1.theglobeandmail.com/servlet/story/RTGAM.20070407.wvimymemorial0407/front/Front/Front/ |work=[[Globe and Mail]] |location=Toronto |date=7 April 2007 |accessdate=22 May 2013}}</ref>{{sfn|Hucker|2007|p=288}} In 2005, the Vimy memorial closed for major restoration work. Veterans Affairs Canada directed the restoration of the memorial in cooperation with other Canadian departments, the Commonwealth War Graves Commission, consultants and specialists in military history.<ref name=Valpy/>

Time, wear, and severe weather conditions led to many identified problems, the single most pervasive being water damage.<ref name=Valpy/> In building a memorial made of cast concrete covered in stone, Allward had failed to take into account how these materials would shift over time.{{sfn|Hucker|2007|p=288}} The builders and designer failed to incorporate sufficient space between the concrete and stones, which resulted in water infiltrating the structure{{sfn|Hucker|2007|p=288}} through its walls and platforms, dissolving lime in the concrete foundation and masonry.<ref name=Valpy/> As the water exited, it deposited the lime on exterior surfaces, obscuring many of the names inscribed thereon.{{sfn|Hucker|2007|p=288}} Poor drainage and water flows off the monument also caused significant deterioration of the platform, terrace, and stairs.<ref name=Valpy/> The restoration project intended to address the root causes of damage and included repairs to the stone, walkways, walls, terraces, stairs, and platforms.<ref name=Valpy/> In order to respect Allward's initial vision of a seamless structure, the restoration team were required to remove all foreign materials employed in patchwork repairs, replace damaged stones with material from the original quarry in Croatia, and correct all minor displacement of stones caused by the freeze-thaw activity.{{sfn|Smith|2008|p=52}} Underlying structural flaws were also corrected.{{sfn|Smith|2008|p=53}}

Queen [[Elizabeth II]], escorted by [[Prince Philip, Duke of Edinburgh]], rededicated the restored memorial on 9 April 2007 in a ceremony commemorating the 90th anniversary of the battle.{{sfn|Bell|Bousfield|Toffoli|2007|p=140}} Other senior Canadian officials, including Prime Minister [[Stephen Harper]], and senior French representatives, [[Prime Minister of France|Prime Minister]] [[Dominique de Villepin]] among them, attended the event, along with thousands of Canadian students, veterans of the [[Second World War]] and of more recent conflicts, and descendants of those who fought at Vimy.<ref name="CTV">{{Cite episode |title= |date=9 April 2007 |series=National News |series-link= |first=Tom |last=Kennedy |network=CTV Television Network}}</ref> The crowd attending the rededication ceremony was the largest crowd on the site since the 1936 dedication.<ref name="CTV"/>

==Site==
[[Image:Vimy Memorial - German trenches, mortar emplacement.jpg|thumb|left|Trenches preserved in concrete|alt=Curved trench lines, preserved in concrete are surrounded by shell craters that are now covered in grass. In the immediate foreground, a small half-destroyer piece of artillery sits in a three walled position that is off of the main trench line.]]
The Canadian National Vimy Memorial site is located approximately eight kilometres north of Arras, France, near the towns of Vimy and [[Neuville-Saint-Vaast]]. The site is one of the few places on the former [[Western Front (World War I)|Western Front]] where a visitor can see the trench lines of a First World War battlefield and the related terrain in a preserved natural state.{{sfn|Rose|Nathanail|2000|p=216}}{{sfn|Lloyd|1998|p=120}} The total area of the site is {{convert|100|ha|acre}}, much of which is forested and off limits to visitors to ensure public safety. The site's rough terrain and unearthed unexploded munitions make the task of grass cutting too dangerous for human operators.<ref name=CWGC2008>{{cite web|url=http://www.cwgc.org/admin/files/Annual%20Report%202007-08%20Part1.pdf |title=Annual Report 2007–2008 |format=PDF |year=2008 |accessdate=10 January 2010 |publisher=Commonwealth War Graves Commission |page=16 |deadurl=yes |archiveurl=https://web.archive.org/20110614233601/http://www.cwgc.org/admin/files/Annual%20Report%202007-08%20Part1.pdf |archivedate=14 June 2011 }}</ref> Instead, sheep graze the open meadows of the site.{{sfn|Turner|2005|p=7}}

The site was founded to principally honour the memory of the Canadian Corps, but also contains a number of other memorials. These include memorials dedicated to the French Moroccan Division, [[Lions Club International]], and Lieutenant-Colonel Mike Watkins. There are also two Commonwealth War Graves Commission maintained cemeteries on site: [[Canadian Cemetery No. 2]] and [[Givenchy Road Canadian Cemetery]].<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.cwgc.org/find-a-cemetery/cemetery/2103985/CANADIAN%20CEMETERY%20NO.2,%20NEUVILLE-ST.%20VAAST |title=CWGC :: Cemetery Details – Canadian Cemetery No. 2, Neuville-St. Vaast|accessdate=13 March 2009 |publisher=Commonwealth War Graves Commission |date=n.d.}}</ref><ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.cwgc.org/find-a-cemetery/cemetery/68402/GIVENCHY%20ROAD%20CANADIAN%20CEMETERY,%20NEUVILLE-ST.%20VAAST |title=CWGC :: Cemetery Details – Givenchy Road Canadian Cemetery, Neuville-St. Vaast| accessdate=13 March 2009 |publisher=Commonwealth War Graves Commission |date=n.d.}}</ref> Beyond being a popular location for battlefield tours, the site is also an important location in the burgeoning field of First World War [[battlefield archaeology]], because of its preserved and largely undisturbed state.<ref>[[#Saunders|Saunders]] pp. 101–108</ref> The site's interpretive centre helps visitors fully understand the Vimy Memorial, the preserved battlefield park, and the history of the Battle of Vimy within the context of Canada's participation in the First World War.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.vac-acc.gc.ca/remembers/sub.cfm?source=memorials/ww1mem/vimy/interpret |title=Interpretive Centre at the Canadian National Vimy Memorial |publisher=Veterans Affairs Canada |date=22 March 2007 |accessdate=14 November 2009 |deadurl=yes |archiveurl=https://web.archive.org/20071113094920/http://www.vac-acc.gc.ca:80/remembers/sub.cfm?source=memorials/ww1mem/vimy/interpret |archivedate=13 November 2007 }}</ref> The Canadian National Vimy Memorial and [[Beaumont-Hamel Newfoundland Memorial]] sites comprise close to 80 percent of conserved First World War battlefields in existence and between them receive over one million visitors each year.<ref>{{cite web|title=Canadian Battlefield Memorials Restoration Project| url=http://www.veterans.gc.ca/eng/memorials/cbmr |accessdate=13 March 2009|publisher=Veterans Affairs Canada |date=19 January 2007}}</ref>

===Vimy memorial===
[[File:Vimy Memorial (September 2010) cropped.jpg|thumb|Left-front view showing an entire aspect of the Memorial|alt=The Vimy memorial from the front facing side. The memorial is very wide indicative of being a photo from after the restoration.]]

Allward constructed the memorial on the vantage point of Hill 145, the highest point on the ridge.{{sfn|Busch|2003|p=12}} The memorial contains a large number of stylized features, including 20 human figures, which help the viewer in contemplating the structure as a whole. The front wall, normally mistaken for the rear, is {{convert|7.3|m|ft}} high and represents an impenetrable wall of defence.{{sfn|Pierce|1992|p=6}} There is a group of figures at each end of the front wall, next to the base of the steps.{{sfn|Brandon|2006|p=10}} The ''Breaking of the Sword'' is located at the southern corner of the front wall while ''Sympathy of the Canadians for the Helpless'' is located at the northern corner.{{sfn|Hucker|2007|p=282}} Collectively, the two groups are ''The Defenders'' and represent the ideals for which Canadians gave their lives during the war.{{sfn|Hucker|2007|p=282}} There is a cannon barrel draped in laurel and olive branches carved into the wall above each group, to symbolize peace.{{sfn|Brandon|2006|p=10}}{{sfn|Hopkins|1919|p=188}} In ''Breaking of the Sword'', three young men are present, one of whom is crouching and breaking his sword.{{sfn|Hucker|2007|p=282}} This statue represents the defeat of militarism and the general desire for peace.{{sfn|Bolling|2003|p=310}} This grouping of figures is the most overt image to [[pacifism]] in the monument, the breaking of a sword being extremely uncommon in war memorials.{{sfn|Prost|1997|p=316}} The original plan for the sculpture included one figure crushing a German helmet with his foot.{{sfn|Pierce|1992|p=6}} It was later decided to dismiss this feature because of its overtly militaristic imagery.{{sfn|Pierce|1992|p=6}} In ''Sympathy of the Canadians for the Helpless'', one man stands erect while three other figures, stricken by hunger or disease, are crouched and kneeling around him. The standing man represents Canada's sympathy for the weak and oppressed.{{sfn|MacIntyre|1967|p=156}}

The figure of a cloaked young female stands on top of the front wall and overlooks the Douai Plains. The woman has her head bowed, her eyes cast down, and her chin resting in one hand. Below her at ground level of the former battlefield is a sarcophagus, bearing a [[Brodie helmet]], a sword and draped in laurel branches.{{sfn|Hucker|2007|p=282}} The saddened figure of ''Canada Bereft'', also known as ''Mother Canada'', is a [[national personification]] of the young nation of Canada, mourning her dead.{{sfn|Hucker|2007|p=282}}{{refn|Dancer turned model Edna Moynihan served as the model with the statue itself being carved by Italian Luigi Rigamonti.{{sfn|Hucker|2007|p=286}}|group="Note"}} The statue, a reference to traditional images of the {{lang|la|[[Mater Dolorosa]]}} and presented in a similar style to that of [[Michelangelo]]'s [[Pietà (Michelangelo)|Pietà]], faces eastward looking out to the dawn of the new day.{{sfn|Duffy|2008|p=194}} Unlike the other statues on the monument, stonemasons carved ''Canada Bereft'' from a single 30 tonne block of stone.{{sfn|Duffy|2008|p=194}} The statue is the largest single piece in the monument and serves as a focal point.{{sfn|Duffy|2008|p=194}} The area in front of the memorial was turned into a grassed space, which Allward referred to as the amphitheatre, that fanned out from the monument's front wall for a distance of {{convert|270|ft|m}} while the battle damaged landscape around the sides and back of the monument were left untouched.{{sfn|Hucker|2008|p=46}}

[[File:Vimy Memorial - Layout.GIF|thumb|left|Layout map of the memorial|alt=A schematic diagram of the Vimy Memorial that shows the orientation of the memorial and the location of names based upon alphabetical order of family name.]]
The twin pylons rise to a height 30 metres above the memorial's stone platform; one bears the [[maple leaf]] for Canada and the other the [[fleur-de-lis]] for France and both symbolize the unity and sacrifice of the two countries.{{sfn|Brandon|2006|p=10}} At the top of the pylons is a grouping of figures known collectively as the ''Chorus''.<ref name=Valpy/> The most senior figures represent ''Justice'' and ''Peace'';{{sfn|Brandon|2006|p=13}} ''Peace'' stands with a torch upraised, making it the highest point in the region.{{sfn|Nicholson|1973|p=33}} The pair is in a style similar to Allward's previously commissioned statues of ''Truth'' and ''Justice'', located outside the [[Supreme Court of Canada]] in [[Ottawa]].{{sfn|Brandon|2006|p=12}} The figures of ''Hope'', ''Charity'', ''Honour'', and ''Faith'' are located below ''Justice'' and ''Peace'', on the eastern side, with ''Truth'' and ''Knowledge'' on the western side. Around these figures are shields of Canada, Britain, and France and large crosses adorn the outside of each pylon.{{sfn|Hopkins|1919|p=188}} The First World War battle honours of the Canadian regiments and a dedicatory inscription to Canada's war dead, in both French and English, also appear on the monument. The ''Spirit of Sacrifice'' is located at the base, between the two pylons.{{sfn|Duffy|2008|p=194}} In the display, a young dying soldier is gazing upward in a crucifixion-like pose, having thrown his torch to a comrade who holds it aloft behind him.{{sfn|Duffy|2008|p=194}} In a lightly veiled reference to the poem ''[[In Flanders Fields]]'', by [[John McCrae]], the torch is passed from one comrade to another in an effort to keep alive the memory of the war dead.{{sfn|Nicholson|1973|p=33}}

The Mourning Parents, one male and one female figure, are reclining on either side of the western steps on the reverse side of the monument. They represent the mourning mothers and fathers of the nation and are likely patterned on the four statues by Michelangelo on the [[Basilica of San Lorenzo, Florence#Cappelle Medicee|Medici Tomb]] in [[Florence]], [[Italy]].{{sfn|Brandon|2006|p=12}} Inscribed on the outside wall of the monument are the names of the 11,285 Canadians killed in France and whose final resting place is unknown.{{sfn|Hucker|2007|p=286}} Most Commonwealth War Graves Commission memorials present names in a descending list format. Allward sought to present the names as a seamless list and decided to do so by inscribing the names in continuous bands, across both vertical and horizontal seams, around the base of the monument.<ref name=Valpy/> The memorial contains the names of four posthumous Victoria Cross recipients; [[Robert Grierson Combe]], [[Frederick Hobson]], [[William Johnstone Milne]], and [[Robert Spall]].<ref name=VCs>{{cite web| title=Victoria Cross (VC) Recipients |url=http://www.veterans.gc.ca/eng/remembrance/medals-decorations/orders-decorations/canadian-victoria-cross-recipients |publisher=Veterans Affairs Canada }}</ref>

===Moroccan Division Memorial===
[[Image:Vimy Ridge - Moroccan Division Memorial.jpg|thumb|right|The Moroccan Division Memorial|alt=White rectangular stone memorial. It is inscribed "AUX MORTS DE LA DIVISION MAROCAINE", with other dedicatory messages in French, and with one phrase in Arabic.]]
The Moroccan Division Memorial is dedicated to the memory of the members of the French Moroccan Division killed during the Second Battle of Artois in May 1915.{{sfn|Boire|2007|p=56}} The monument was raised by veterans of the division and inaugurated on 14 June 1925, having been built without planning permission.<ref name=France24/><ref>{{Citation|title=Inauguration du monument à la Division marocaine élevé à la cote 140, plateau de Vimy, route de Neuville-Saint-Vaast à Givenchy-en-Gohelle (Pas de Calais), le 14 juin 1925 |location= Paris |publisher=Berger-Levrault|trans-title=Inauguration of the Moroccan Division raised on hill 140, Vimy Ridge, Road Neuville-Saint-Vaast in Givenchy-en-Gohelle (Pas de Calais), 14 June 1925|year=1926 |language=french}}</ref><ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.tourism-lenslievin.co.uk/monument-aux-morts-de-la-division-marocaine/givenchy-en-gohelle/tabid/20656/offreid/47f2449b-2791-4864-8e41-7b4680260aa1/details.aspx |publisher=Lens-Liévin Tourist Information and Cultural Heritage Office |title=Monument aux morts de la division marocaine |trans-title=War memorial of the Moroccan division |date=n.d.}}</ref> The veterans of the division later funded the April 1987 installation of a marble plaque that identified the Moroccan Division as the only divisions where all subordinate units had been awarded the [[Legion of Honour]].<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.forgottenheroes.eu/EN_LR.pdf |title=Forgotten Heroes North Africans and the Great War 1914–1919 |publisher=Forgotten Heroes 14–19 Foundation |page=10}}</ref>

The Moroccan Division comprised units of varying origins and although the name would indicate otherwise it did not in fact contain any units originating from [[Morocco]].{{sfn|Vincent-Chaissac|p=33}} Rather the division contained [[Tirailleur]]s and [[Zouave]]s, of principally [[Tunisia]]n and [[Algeria]]n origin, and [[French Foreign Legion]] volunteers.{{sfn|Vincent-Chaissac|p=33}}<ref name=France24>{{cite web|title=Grande Guerre : la Division marocaine qui n'avait de marocaine que le nom | trans-title = Great War: the Moroccan Division is Moroccan in name only|first=Stéphanie |last=Trouillard |date=6 May 2015 |publisher=France 24 |language=french |url=http://www.france24.com/fr/20150509-premiere-guerre-mondiale-division-marocaine-vimy-crete-tirailleurs-algeriens-tunisiens-legions-etrangeres-artois}}</ref> The French Legionaries came, as attested to by a plaque installed on the memorial, from 52 different countries and included amongst them American, Polish, Greek, Czech, Swedish and Swiss volunteers, such as writer [[Blaise Cendrars]].{{sfn|Das|2011|p=316}}{{sfn|Vincent-Chaissac|p=33}}

In the battle, General [[Victor d'Urbal]], commander of the French Tenth Army, sought to dislodge the Germans from the region by attacking their positions at Vimy Ridge and [[Notre Dame de Lorette]].{{sfn|Simkins|Jukes|Hickey|2002|p=48}} When the attack began on 9 May 1915, the French XXXIII Corps made significant territorial gains.{{sfn|Simkins|Jukes|Hickey|2002|p=48}} The Moroccan Division, which was part of the XXXIII Corps, quickly moved through the German defences and advanced {{convert|4|km|yd}} into German lines in two hours.{{sfn|Doughty|2005|p=159}} The division managed to capture the height of the ridge, with small parties even reaching the far side of the ridge, before retreating due to a lack of reinforcements.{{sfn|Boire|2007|p=56}} Even after German counter-attacks, the division managed to hold a territorial gain of {{convert|2100|m|yd}}.{{sfn|Doughty|2005|p=159}} The division did however suffer heavy casualties. Those killed in the battle and commemorated on the memorial include both of the division's brigade commanders, Colonels [[Gaston Cros]] and Louis Augustus Theodore Pein.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.legionetrangere.fr/index.php/archives/79-infos-fsale/489-histoire-la-bataille-de-l-artois-du-9-mai-au-22-juin-1915-avec-l-attaque-du-2e-regiment-de-marche-du-1er-etranger |title=HISTOIRE : La bataille de l'Artois du 9 mai au 22 juin 1915 avec l'attaque du 2e Régiment de marche du 1er Etranger |publisher=Fédération des Sociétés d' Anciens de la Légion étrangère |trans-title=HISTORY: The Battle of Artois from 9 May to 22 June 1915 with the attack of the 2nd Regiment of the 1st Foreign Legion |language=french |date=n.d.}}</ref>

===Grange Subway===
The First World War's Western Front included an extensive system of underground tunnels, subways, and dugouts. The Grange Subway is a tunnel system that is approximately {{convert|800|m|yd}} in length and once connected the reserve lines to the front line. This permitted soldiers to advance to the front quickly, securely, and unseen.{{sfn|Rose|Nathanail|2000|p=398}} A portion of this tunnel system is open to the public through regular guided tours provided by Canadian student guides.{{sfn|Turner|2005|p=90}}

The Arras-Vimy sector was conducive to tunnel excavation owing to the soft, porous yet extremely stable nature of the [[chalk]] underground.{{sfn|Rose|Nathanail|2000|p=398}} As a result, pronounced underground warfare had been a feature of the Vimy sector since 1915.{{sfn|Rose|Nathanail|2000|p=398}} In preparation for the Battle of Vimy Ridge, five British tunnelling companies excavated 12 subways along the Canadian Corps' front, the longest of which was {{convert|1.2|km|yd}} in length.{{sfn|Barton|Doyle|Vandewalle|2004|p=200}} The tunnellers excavated the subways at a depth of 10 metres to ensure protection from large calibre howitzer shellfire.{{sfn|Barton|Doyle|Vandewalle|2004|p=200}} The subways were often dug at a pace of four metres a day and were often two metres tall and one metre wide.{{sfn|Rose|Nathanail|2000|p=398}} This underground network often incorporated or included concealed light rail lines, hospitals, command posts, water reservoirs, ammunition stores, mortar and machine gun posts, and communication centres.{{sfn|Barton|Doyle|Vandewalle|2004|p=200}}

===Lieutenant-Colonel Mike Watkins memorial===
[[File:Vimy Ridge - Watkins memorial.JPG|thumb|Memorial plaque to Lieutenant Colonel Michael Watkins, MBE |alt=A bronze looking plaque with a small maple leaf in the top centre with English text on the right and French on the left.]]
Near the Canadian side of the restored trenches is a small memorial plaque dedicated to [[Lieutenant-Colonel]] Mike Watkins [[Order of the British Empire|MBE]]. Watkins was head of [[11 Explosive Ordnance Disposal Regiment RLC|Explosive Ordnance Disposal]] at the Directorate of Land Service Ammunition, [[Royal Logistics Corps]], and a leading British [[Bomb disposal|explosive ordnance disposal]] expert.<ref name="Watkins obit">{{cite news |first=Paul |last=Beaver |title=Obituary: Lt-Col Mike Watkins |url=http://www.independent.co.uk/arts-entertainment/obituary-ltcol-mike-watkins-1171486.html |work=[[The Independent]] |date=14 August 1998 |accessdate=26 April 2009 |location=[[London]]}}</ref> In August 1998, he died in a roof collapse near a tunnel entrance while undertaking a detailed investigative survey of the British tunnel system on the grounds of the Canadian National Vimy Memorial site.<ref name="Watkins obit"/> Watkins was no stranger to the tunnel system at Vimy Ridge. Earlier the same year, he participated in the successful disarming of 3 tonnes of deteriorated [[ammonal]] explosives located under a road intersection on the site.<ref name="Watkins obit"/>

===Visitor's centre===
The site has a visitor's centre, staffed by Canadian student guides, which is open seven days a week.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.veterans.gc.ca/eng/remembrance/memorials/overseas/first-world-war/france/vimy/vimy_contact |title=Visitor information |publisher=Veterans Affairs Canada |accessdate=10 February 2016 |date=n.d.}}</ref> During the execution of the memorial restoration, the original visitor centre located near the monument was closed and replaced by a temporary visitor centre, which remains in use today.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.veterans.gc.ca/eng/news/salute/article/870 |title=New Visitor Education Centre For Vimy |publisher=Veterans Affairs Canada |date=25 November 2015 |accessdate=10 February 2016}}</ref> The visitor's centre is currently located near the preserved forward trench lines, in close proximity to many of the craters created by underground mining during the war and near the entrance of the Grange Subway.{{sfn|Pedersen|2012|loc=Chapter 7}} Construction of a new {{CAD|5}} million visitor centre is expected to be completed by April 2017, in advance of the 100th anniversary of the battle.<ref>{{cite news |title=Vimy Ridge Memorial in France to get visitor centre |url=http://globalnews.ca/news/560616/vimy-ridge-memorial-to-get-visitor-centre/ |publisher=Global News |date=14 May 2013 |accessdate=10 February 2016}}</ref>

==Sociocultural influence==
[[Image:Vimy Memorial war recruitment poster.jpg|right|thumb|upright|The Vimy Momerial displayed in a Canadian [[World War II]] recruitment posters|alt=A white skeleton body holds alight a torch and the background the two white pillars of the Vimy memorial are displayed. the entire poster is displayed in white with a background of blue.]]
The Canadian National Vimy Memorial site has considerable sociocultural significance for Canada. The idea that Canada's national identity and nationhood were born out of the Battle of Vimy Ridge is an opinion that is widely published in military and general histories of Canada.{{sfn|Inglis|1995|p=2}}{{sfn|Humphries|2007|p=66}} Historian Denise Thomson suggests that the construction of the Vimy memorial represents the culmination of an increasingly assertive nationalism that developed in Canada during the [[interwar period]].{{sfn|Thomson|1995–1996|pp=5–27}} Meanwhile, Hucker suggests that the memorial transcends the Battle of Vimy Ridge and now serves as an enduring image of the whole of the First World War, while concurrently expressing the enormous impact of war in general.{{sfn|Hucker|2007|p=280}} Hucker also suggest that the most recent restoration project serves as evidence of a new generation's determination to remember Canada's contribution and sacrifice during the First World War.{{sfn|Hucker|2007|p=280}} The [[Historic Sites and Monuments Board of Canada]] recognized the importance of the site by recommending its designation as a National Historic Site of Canada; it was so designated, one of only two outside of Canada, in 1997.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.veterans.gc.ca/eng/memorials/france/vimy/vimycerm | title=Canadian National Historic Site Designation |date=9 September 1999 |accessdate=22 May 2013 |publisher=Veterans Affairs Canada}}</ref> The other is the [[Beaumont-Hamel Newfoundland Memorial]], also in France. Remembrance has also taken other forms, the [[Vimy Foundation]], having been established to preserve and promote Canada's First World War legacy as symbolized by the victory at the Battle of Vimy Ridge, and [[Vimy Ridge Day]], to commemorate the deaths and casualties during the battle.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.vimyfoundation.ca/about/mission/ | title=Mission |publisher=Vimy Foundation |accessdate=9 February 2016 |date=n.d.}}</ref> Local Vimy resident Georges Devloo spent 13 years, until his death in 2009, offering car rides to Canadian tourists to and from the memorial at no charge, as a way of paying tribute to the Canadians who fought at Vimy.<ref>{{cite news|first=Kathleen |last=Harris |newspaper=[[London Free Press]]| publisher=Sum Media Corp |title='Grandpa of Vimy' gives rides for sweets |date=13 November 2009}}</ref><ref>{{cite news|first=Adrienne |last=Arsenault
|url=http://www.cbc.ca/world/story/2009/02/09/f-rfa-arsenault.html |publisher=Canadian Broadcasting Company |title=Au revoir to the grand-père of Vimy|accessdate=10 February 2009|date=10 February 2009}}</ref>

The memorial is regularly the subject or inspiration of other artistic projects. In 1931, [[Will Longstaff]] painted ''Ghosts of Vimy Ridge'', depicting ghosts of men from the Canadian Corps on Vimy Ridge surrounding the memorial, though the memorial was still several years away from completion.<ref name=longstaff>{{cite web|url=https://www.awm.gov.au/encyclopedia/menin/notes/ |title=Will Longstaff's Menin Gate at midnight (Ghosts of Menin Gate) |date=n.d.|accessdate=11 January 2010 |publisher=Australian War Memorial}}</ref> The memorial has been the subject of stamps in both France and Canada, including a French series in 1936 and a Canadian series on the 50th anniversary of the [[Armistice of 11 November 1918]].<ref>{{cite journal |title=The 1936 'Vimy Ridge' Issue |issue=259 |date=March 2011 |first=Mick |last=Bister |publisher=Journal of the France and Colonies Philatelic Society}}</ref> The Canadian ''[[Tomb of the Unknown Soldier|Unknown Soldier]]'' was selected from a cemetery in the vicinity of the Canadian National Vimy Memorial and the design of the [[Canadian Tomb of the Unknown Soldier]] is based upon the stone sarcophagus at the base of the Vimy memorial.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.veterans.gc.ca/eng/memorials/france/vimy/vmemory |title=Designing and Constructing |series=Tomb of the Unknown Soldier |date= 5 May 2000 |accessdate=8 January 2010 |publisher=Veterans Affairs Canada}}</ref> The [[Never Forgotten National Memorial]] was intended to be a {{convert|24|m|ft}} statue inspired by the ''Canada Bereft'' statue on the memorial, before the project was cancelled in February 2016.<ref>{{cite news|title=Parks Canada backs out of controversial 'Mother Canada' war memorial project in Cape Breton|url=http://news.nationalpost.com/news/canada/parks-canada-backs-out-of-controversial-mother-canada-war-memorial-project-in-cape-breton|accessdate=8 February 2016|work=National Post|date=5 February 2016}}</ref> A 2001 Canadian [[bestseller|bestselling]] [[historical novel]] ''[[The Stone Carvers]]'' by [[Jane Urquhart]] involves the characters in the design and creation of the memorial. In 2007, the memorial was a short listed selection for the [[Seven Wonders of Canada]].<ref>{{cite news| title=Vimy Memorial, France |url=http://www.cbc.ca/sevenwonders/wonder_vimy.html |accessdate=7 January 2010 |publisher=Canadian Broadcasting Company |date=n.d. }}</ref> The [[Royal Canadian Mint]] released commemorative coins featuring the memorial on a number of occasions, including a 5 cent sterling silver coin in 2002 and a 30 dollar sterling silver coin in 2007. The [[Sacrifice Medal]], a Canadian military [[Military awards and decorations|decoration]] created in 2008, features the image of ''Mother Canada'' on the reverse side of the medal.<ref>{{cite news |title=New military medal to honour combat casualties |url=http://www.cbc.ca/news/canada/new-military-medal-to-honour-combat-casualties-1.770264 |date=29 August 2008 |accessdate=7 January 2010 |publisher=Canadian Broadcasting Company}}</ref> A permanent bas relief sculpted image of the memorial is presented in the gallery of the grand hall of the [[Embassy of France in Canada]] to symbolize the close relations between the two countries.<ref>{{cite web| title=Embassy of France in Canada, virtual visit |url=http://www.ambafrance-ca.org/gallery/genese/pages/vimy.htm |date=January 2004 |accessdate=10 January 2010 |publisher=Embassy of France in Canada }}</ref> The memorial is featured on the [[Obverse and reverse|reverse]] of the [[Frontier Series]] Canadian polymer [[Canadian twenty-dollar bill|$20]] banknote, which was released by the [[Bank of Canada]] on 7 November 2012.<ref>{{cite web| title=Twenty Dollar Bill|url=http://www.ctvnews.ca/canadians-see-twin-towers-pornography-in-20-bill-design-1.806190 |accessdate=6 May 2012 |publisher=CTV |date=n.d.}}</ref>

== See also ==
{{Portal|Canadian Armed Forces}}
* [[World War I memorials]]

{{clear}}

==Notes==
{{Reflist|group="Note"}}

==Footnotes==
{{Research help|Mil}}
{{Reflist|30em}}

== References ==
{{refbegin|colwidth=30em}}
* {{cite book |title= Beneath Flanders Fields: The Tunnellers' War 1914–1918 |last1= Barton | first1=Peter |last2= Doyle |first2=Peter |last3=Vandewalle |first3=Johan |year= 2004 |publisher= McGill-Queen's University Press|location= Montreal & Kingston | isbn = 0-7735-2949-7|url=http://books.google.ca/books?id=wLZjfmkh3jYC&lpg=PP1&dq=Beneath%20Flanders%20Fields%3A%20The%20Tunnellers'%20War%201914-1918&pg=PP1#v=onepage&q&f=true|ref=harv}}
* {{cite book| last1=Bell| first1=Lynne| last2=Bousfield |first2=Arthur |last3=Toffoli |first3=Gary| title=Queen and Consort:Elizabeth and Philip – 60 Years of Marriage| publisher=Dundurn Press| year=2007| location=Toronto| url=http://books.google.ca/books?id=sqFPntVyzK4C&lpg=PP1&dq=Queen%20and%20Consort%3AElizabeth%20and%20Philip%20-%2060%20Years%20of%20Marriage&pg=PP1#v=onepage&q&f=true| isbn=978-1-55002-725-9|ref=harv}}
* {{cite journal |last = Boire |first = Michael| title = The Underground War: Military Mining Operations in support of the attack on Vimy Ridge, 9 April 1917 | journal = Canadian Military History | volume = 1 | issue = 1–2 | pages = 15–24| publisher = Laurier Centre for Military Strategic and Disarmament Studies | date = Spring 1992 | url = http://www.wlu.ca/lcmsds/cmh/back%20issues/CMH/volume%201/issue%201-2/Boire%20-%20The%20Underground%20War.pdf| accessdate =2 January 2009 |format=PDF|ref=harv}}
* {{cite book |last = Boire |first = Michael| year = 2007 | contribution = The Battlefield before the Canadians, 1914–1916 | editor-last = Hayes | editor-first = Geoffrey | editor2-last = Iarocci | editor2-first = Andrew | editor3-last = Bechthold | editor3-first = Mike| title = Vimy Ridge: A Canadian Reassessment | publication-place = Waterloo | publisher = Wilfrid Laurier University Press | pages =51–61 | isbn = 0-88920-508-6|url=http://books.google.ca/books?id=Pf5y7sehRwAC&lpg=PP1&dq=Vimy%20Ridge%3A%20A%20Canadian%20Reassessment&pg=PA51#v=onepage&q&f=true|ref=harv}}
* {{cite book |last = Bolling |first = Gordon |contribution=Acts of (Re-)Construction: Traces of Germany in Jane Urquhart's Novel the Stone Carvers|pages=295–318 | title= Refractions of Germany in Canadian Literature and Culture |editor1-last=Antor |editor1-first = Heinz | editor2-last = Brown | editor2-first = Sylvia | editor3-last = Considine | editor3-first = John | editor4-last = Stierstorfer | editor4-first = Klaus |year= 2003 |publisher= de Gruyter|location= Berlin | isbn = 978-3-11-017666-7|url=http://books.google.com/?id=CEocfbvIMMMC&printsec=frontcover&dq=Refractions+of+Germany+in+Canadian+Literature+and+Culture#v=onepage&q&f=true|ref=harv}}
* {{cite journal |last = Borestad |first = Lane |title=Walter Allward: Sculptor and Architect of the Vimy Ridge Memorial |pages=23–38 |journal = Journal of the Society for the Study of Architecture in Canada | volume = 33 | issue = 1 | publisher = Society for the Study of Architecture in Canada | date = 2008 |ref=harv}}
* {{cite book| title= Art or Memorial? : The Forgotten History of Canada's War Art|last=Brandon |first=Laura |year=2006 | publisher=University of Calgary Press |location=Calgary |isbn=1-55238-178-1|ref=harv}}
* {{cite journal |last = Brown |first = Eric |last2=Cook |first2=Tim | title = The 1936 Vimy Pilgrimage | journal = Canadian Military History | volume = 20 | issue = 2 | pages = 33–54| publisher = Laurier Centre for Military Strategic and Disarmament Studies | date = Spring 2011 |ref=harv}}
* {{cite book| title= Canada and the Great War: Western Front Association Papers |last=Busch |first=Briton Cooper |year=2003| publisher=McGill-Queen's University Press |location=Montreal |isbn=0-7735-2570-X|url=http://books.google.ca/books?id=LLKqAyUl6TAC&lpg=PP1&dq=Canada%20and%20the%20Great%20War%3A%20Western%20Front%20Association%20Papers&pg=PP1#v=onepage&q&f=true|ref=harv}}
* {{cite book | last = Campbell | first = David | year = 2007 | contribution = The 2nd Canadian Division: A 'Most Spectacular Battle' | editor-last = Hayes | editor-first = Geoffrey | editor2-last = Iarocci | editor2-first = Andrew | editor3-last = Bechthold | editor3-first = Mike| title = Vimy Ridge: A Canadian Reassessment | publication-place = Waterloo | publisher = Wilfrid Laurier University Press | pages =171–192 | isbn = 0-88920-508-6|url=http://books.google.ca/books?id=Pf5y7sehRwAC&lpg=PA171&dq=The%202nd%20Canadian%20Division%3A%20A%20'Most%20Spectacular%20Battle'&pg=PA171#v=onepage&q&f=true|ref=harv}}
* {{cite book | last = Cook | first = Tim | year = 2007 | contribution = The Gunners of Vimy Ridge: 'We are Hammering Fritz to Pieces' | editor-last = Hayes | editor-first = Geoffrey | editor2-last = Iarocci | editor2-first = Andrew | editor3-last = Bechthold | editor3-first = Mike | title = Vimy Ridge: A Canadian Reassessment | publication-place = Waterloo | publisher = Wilfrid Laurier University Press | pages =105–124 | isbn = 0-88920-508-6|url=http://books.google.ca/books?id=Pf5y7sehRwAC&lpg=PA171&dq=The%202nd%20Canadian%20Division%3A%20A%20'Most%20Spectacular%20Battle'&pg=PA105#v=onepage&q&f=true|ref=harv}}
* {{cite book|title=Race, Empire and First World War Writing |first=Santanu |last=Das |publisher=Cambridge University Press |location=New York |isbn=978-0-521-50984-8 |year=2011 |ref=harv}}
* {{cite book| last=Doughty| first=Robert A.| title=Pyrrhic Victory: French Strategy and Operation in the Great War|year=2005| publisher=Belknap Press|publication-place =Cambridge and London|isbn=0-674-01880-X|url=http://books.google.ca/books?id=vZRmHkdGk44C&lpg=PP1&dq=Pyrrhic%20Victory%3A%20French%20Strategy%20and%20Operation%20in%20the%20Great%20War&pg=PP1#v=onepage&q&f=true|ref=harv}}
* {{cite journal |last = Duffy |first = Denis| title = Complexity and contradiction in Canadian public sculpture: the case of Walter Allward | journal = American Review of Canadian Studies | volume = 38 | issue = 2 | pages = 189–206| publisher = Routledge | date =2008 |doi = 10.1080/02722010809481708|ref=harv}}
* {{cite book |last = Durflinger |first = Serge| year = 2007 | contribution = Safeguarding Sanctity: Canada and the Vimy Memorial during the Second World War| editor-last = Hayes | editor-first = Geoffrey | editor2-last = Iarocci | editor2-first = Andrew | editor3-last = Bechthold | editor3-first = Mike| title = Vimy Ridge: A Canadian Reassessment | publication-place = Waterloo | publisher = Wilfrid Laurier University Press | pages =291–305 | isbn = 0-88920-508-6|ref=harv}}
* {{cite book |title=Croatia: Travels in Undiscovered Country |last=Fabijančić |first= Tony |year= 2003 |publisher= University of Alberta |isbn=0-88864-397-7 |url=http://books.google.com/?id=sppa_IWNmosC&printsec=frontcover |accessdate =2 January 2009|ref=harv}}
* {{cite book |title=The Silent General: A Biography of Haig's Trusted Great War Comrade-in-Arms |last=Farr |first= Don |year= 2007 |publisher= Helion & Company Limited |location= Solihull |isbn=978-1-874622-99-4|ref=harv|url=http://books.google.ca/books?id=70hVl257oPIC&lpg=PP1&dq=The%20Silent%20General%3A%20A%20Biography%20of%20Haig's%20Trusted%20Great%20War%20Comrade-in-Arms&pg=PP1#v=onepage&q&f=true}}
* {{cite book |last = Godefroy |first = Andrew| authorlink=Andrew Godefroy| year = 2007 | contribution = The German Army at Vimy Ridge | editor-last = Hayes | editor-first = Geoffrey | editor2-last = Iarocci | editor2-first = Andrew | editor3-last = Bechthold | editor3-first = Mike| title = Vimy Ridge: A Canadian Reassessment | publication-place = Waterloo | publisher = Wilfrid Laurier University Press | pages =225–238 | isbn = 0-88920-508-6|url=http://books.google.ca/books?id=Pf5y7sehRwAC&lpg=PA171&dq=The%202nd%20Canadian%20Division%3A%20A%20'Most%20Spectacular%20Battle'&pg=PA225#v=onepage&q&f=true|ref=harv}}
* {{cite book |last = Hayes |first = Geoffrey| year = 2007 | contribution = The 3rd Canadian Division: Forgotten Victory | editor-last = Hayes | editor-first = Geoffrey | editor2-last = Iarocci | editor2-first = Andrew | editor3-last = Bechthold | editor3-first = Mike| title = Vimy Ridge: A Canadian Reassessment | publication-place = Waterloo | publisher = Wilfrid Laurier University Press | pages =193–210 | isbn = 0-88920-508-6|url=http://books.google.ca/books?id=Pf5y7sehRwAC&lpg=PA171&dq=The%202nd%20Canadian%20Division%3A%20A%20'Most%20Spectacular%20Battle'&pg=PA193#v=onepage&q&f=true|ref=harv}}
* {{cite book|title= Canada at War, 1914–1918: A Record of Heroism and Achievement|last= Hopkins|first= J. Castell|year= 1919|publisher= Canadian Annual Review|location= Toronto|ref=harv}}
* {{cite book |last = Hucker |first = Jacqueline|year = 2007 | contribution = The Meaning and Significance of the Vimy Monument | editor-last = Hayes | editor-first = Geoffrey | editor2-last = Iarocci | editor2-first = Andrew | editor3-last = Bechthold | editor3-first = Mike| title = Vimy Ridge: A Canadian Reassessment | publication-place = Waterloo | publisher = Wilfrid Laurier University Press | pages =279–290 | isbn = 0-88920-508-6|url=http://books.google.ca/books?id=Pf5y7sehRwAC&lpg=PA171&dq=The%202nd%20Canadian%20Division%3A%20A%20'Most%20Spectacular%20Battle'&pg=PA279#v=onepage&q&f=true|ref=harv}}
* {{cite journal |last = Hucker |first = Jacqueline |title=Vimy: A Monument for the Modern World |pages=39–48 |journal = Journal of the Society for the Study of Architecture in Canada | volume = 33 | issue = 1 | publisher = Society for the Study of Architecture in Canada | date = 2008 |ref=harv}}
* {{cite book|last = Humphries|first = Mark Osborne| year = 2007| contribution = 'Old Wine in New Bottles': A Comparison of British and Canadian Preparations for the Battle of Arras| editor-last = Hayes| editor-first = Geoffrey| editor2-last = Iarocci| editor2-first = Andrew| editor3-last = Bechthold| editor3-first = Mike| title = Vimy Ridge: A Canadian Reassessment| publication-place = Waterloo| publisher = Wilfrid Laurier University Press| pages =65–85| isbn = 0-88920-508-6|ref=harv}}
* {{cite book|last= Inglis|first= Dave| title = Vimy Ridge: 1917–1992, A Canadian Myth over Seventy Five Years| year = 1995| publisher=Simon Fraser University| location=Burnaby|url =http://summit.sfu.ca/system/files/iritems1/6687/b17448906.pdf| accessdate =22 May 2013|ref=harv}}
* {{cite book |title=Battlefield tourism: pilgrimage and the commemoration of the Great War in Britain, Australia and Canada, 1919–1939 |last=Lloyd |first= David |year= 1998 |publisher= Berg Publishing |location= Oxford |isbn=1-85973-174-0|ref=harv}}
* {{cite book |title=Canada at Vimy |last=MacIntyre |first= Duncan E. |year= 1967 |publisher= Peter Martin Associates |location= Toronto|ref=harv}}
* {{cite book |last = Moran |first = Heather| year = 2007 | contribution = The Canadian Army Medical Corps at Vimy Ridge | editor-last = Hayes | editor-first = Geoffrey | editor2-last = Iarocci | editor2-first = Andrew | editor3-last = Bechthold | editor3-first = Mike| title = Vimy Ridge: A Canadian Reassessment | publication-place = Waterloo | publisher = Wilfrid Laurier University Press | pages =139–154 | isbn = 0-88920-508-6|ref=harv}}
* {{cite book | last1=Morton | first1=Desmond | first2=Glenn | last2=Wright | title=Winning the Second Battle: Canadian Veterans and the Return to Civilian Life, 1915–1930 | publisher=University of Toronto Press |place=Toronto |year=1987 |ref=harv}}
* {{cite book |title= Official History of the Canadian Army in the First World War: Canadian Expeditionary Force 1914–1919 |last= Nicholson |first= Gerald W. L. | year= 1962 |publisher= Queen's Printer and Controller of Stationary |location= Ottawa |url=http://www.cmp-cpm.forces.gc.ca/dhh-dhp/his/docs/CEF_e.pdf | format=PDF |accessdate =1 January 2007| ref=harv}}
* {{cite book |title= "We will remember ...": Overseas Memorials to Canada's War Dead |last= Nicholson |first= Gerald W. L. | year= 1973 |publisher=Minister of Veterans Affairs for Canada |location= Ottawa|ref=harv}}
* {{cite journal |last = Pierce |first = John| title = Constructing Memory: The Vimy Memorial| journal = Canadian Military History | volume = 1 | issue = 1–2 | pages = 4–14| publisher = Laurier Centre for Military Strategic and Disarmament Studies | date = Spring 1992 | url = http://www.wlu.ca/lcmsds/cmh/back%20issues/CMH/volume%201/issue%201-2/Pierce%20-%20Constructing%20Memory%20-%20The%20Vimy%20Memorial.pdf| accessdate =2 February 2009|format=PDF|ref=harv}}
*{{cite book |title= ANZACS on the Western Front: The Australian War Memorial Battlefield Guide |last= Pedersen |first=Peter | year= 2012 |publisher=John Wiley & Sons|location= New YOrk|ref=harv}}
* {{cite book |last = Prost |first = Antoine| year = 1997 | contribution = Monuments to the Dead | editor-last = Nora | editor-first = Pierre | editor2-last = Kritzman | editor2-first = Lawrence | editor3-last = Goldhammer | editor3-first = Arthur | title = Realms of memory: the construction of the French past | publication-place = New York | publisher = Columbia University Press | pages =307–332| isbn = 0-231-10634-3|url=http://books.google.ca/books?id=_Va9svbIgLwC&lpg=PP1&dq=Realms%20of%20memory%3A%20the%20construction%20of%20the%20French%20past%201997&pg=PA307#v=onepage&q&f=true|ref=harv}}
*{{cite journal |last=Reynolds |first=Ken |year=2007 |title="Not A Man Fell Out and the Party Marched Into Arras Singing": The Royal Guard and the Unveiling of the Vimy Memorial, 1936|journal=Canadian Military History |volume=17 |issue=3 |pages=57–68 |ref=harv}}*{{cite journal |last=Reynolds |first=Ken |year=2008 |title=From Alberta to Avion: Private Herbert Peterson, 49th Battalion, CEF |journal=Canadian Military History |volume=16 |issue=3 |pages=67–74 |ref=harv}}
* {{cite book |title=Geology and Warfare: Examples of the Influence of Terrain and Geologists on Military Operations |last1=Rose |first1= Edward |first2=Paul |last2=Nathanail |year= 2000 |publisher= Geological Society |location= London |isbn=0-85052-463-6|url=http://books.google.ca/books?id=OEdlfb1VnMUC&lpg=PP1&dq=Geology%20and%20Warfare%3A%20Examples%20of%20the%20Influence%20of%20Terrain%20and%20Geologists%20on%20Military%20Operations&pg=PP1#v=onepage&q&f=true|ref=harv}}
* {{cite book| title= Command or Control?: Command, Training and Tactics in the British and German Armies, 1888–1918 |last=Samuels |first=Mart |year=1996| publisher=Frank Cass |location=Portland |isbn=0-7146-4570-2|ref=harv}}
* {{cite journal |last = Saunders |first = Nicholas| title =Excavating memories: archaeology and the Great War, 1914–2001| journal = Antiquity | volume = 76 | issue = 291 | pages = 101–108| publisher = Portland Press| year = 2002 |ref=Saunders}}
* {{cite book|title= The German Army on Vimy Ridge 1914–1917|last= Sheldon| first= Jack|year= 2008|publisher= Pen & Sword Military|location= Barnsley (UK)| isbn = 978-1-84415-680-1|ref=harv}}
* {{cite book |last1=Simkins |first1=Peter |last2=Jukes |first2=Geoffrey |last3=Hickey |first3=Michael |title=The First World War: The Western Front, 1917–1918 |year=2002 |publisher=Osprey Publishing |isbn=978-1-84176-348-4|url=http://books.google.ca/books?id=EB3ABsBOAgYC&lpg=PP1&dq=The%20First%20World%20War%3A%20The%20Western%20Front%2C%201917-1918&pg=PP1#v=onepage&q&f=true|ref=harv}}
* {{cite journal |last = Smith |first = Julian |title=Restoring Vimy: The Challenges of Confronting Emerging Modernism |pages=49–56 |journal = Journal of the Society for the Study of Architecture in Canada | volume = 33 | issue = 1 | publisher = Society for the Study of Architecture in Canada | date = 2008 |ref=harv}}
* {{cite journal| first=Denise | last=Thomson |title=National Sorrow, National Pride: Commemoration of War in Canada, 1918–1945 |journal=Journal of Canadian Studies |date=Winter 1995–1996 |volume=30 |issue=4 |pages=5–27|ref=harv}}
* {{cite book| title= The European powers in the First World War: an encyclopedia| editor-last = Tucker| editor-first = Spencer| year=1996| publisher= Garland Publishing|location=New York|isbn=0-8153-0399-8|url=http://books.google.ca/books?id=EHI3PCjDtsUC&lpg=PP1&dq=The%20European%20powers%20in%20the%20First%20World%20War%3A%20an%20encyclopedia&pg=PP1#v=onepage&q&f=true|ref=harv}}
* {{cite book| title= Vimy Ridge 1917: Byng's Canadians Triumph at Arras |last=Turner |first=Alexander| year=2005| publisher=Osprey Publishing |location=London |isbn=1-84176-871-5|ref=harv }}
* {{cite book| title= Death So Noble: Memory, Meaning, and the First World War |last=Vance |first=Jonathan Franklin |year=1997| publisher=UBC Press |location=Vancouver |isbn=0-7748-0600-1|url=http://books.google.ca/books?id=3wABF2KyvXEC&lpg=PP1&dq=Death%20So%20Noble%3A%20Memory%2C%20Meaning%2C%20and%20the%20First%20World%20War&pg=PP1#v=onepage&q&f=true|ref=harv}}
*{{citation|chapter=Moroccans, Algerians, Tunisians ... From Africa to the Artois |first=Philippe |last=Vincent-Chaissac |publisher=L'Echo du Pas-de-Calais |title=They Came from Across the Globe |p=3 |chapter-url=http://memoire.pas-de-calais.com/images/_uk/pdf-nationalites/marocain.pdf |ref=harv}}
* {{cite book|title= Byng of Vimy, General and Governor General|last= Williams|first= Jeffery|year= 1983|publisher= Secker & Warburg|location= London| isbn = 0-436-57110-2|ref=harv}}
{{refend}}

==External links==
{{Commons category}}
* [http://www.veterans.gc.ca/eng/memorials/france/vimy/ Canadian National Vimy Memorial] – official website
* [http://www.vimyfoundation.ca/ The Vimy Foundation]
* [http://www.cbc.ca/archives/categories/war-conflict/first-world-war/the-first-world-war-canada-remembers/vimy-ridge-memorial-unveiled.html CBC Archives: King Edward VIII's speech at the dedication ceremony]
* [http://www.findagrave.com/cgi-bin/fg.cgi?page=cr&CRid=1119613 Vimy Memorial] at [[Find a Grave]]

{{Canadian First World War Memorials In Europe}}
{{NHSC}}
{{World War I War Memorials in France}}

{{Good article}}

[[Category:Canadian military memorials and cemeteries]]
[[Category:World War I memorials in France]]
[[Category:World War I in the Pas-de-Calais]]
[[Category:Monuments and memorials in the Pas-de-Calais]]
[[Category:National Historic Sites of Canada in France]]
[[Category:Canada–France relations]]
[[Category:Canada in World War I]]
[[Category:Works by Walter Seymour Allward]]
[[Category:Commonwealth War Graves Commission memorials]]

Bruce Campbell Hopper

2016-03-06T13:14:05Z

Hazard-Bot: Bot: Adding {{Research help|Mil}}; please leave feedback/comments at Wikipedia talk:Research help #ResHelp

{{Infobox Academic
| name = Bruce Campbell Hopper
| image = File:Dr._Bruce_Campbell_Hopper,_taken_in_1922.jpg
| image_size =
| caption =
| birth_date = {{Birth date |1892|08|24}}
| birth_place = [[Litchfield, Illinois]] [[United States|USA]]
| death_date = {{Death date and age|1973|07|06|1892|08|24|}}
| death_place = [[Cambridge, Massachusetts]] [[United States|USA]]
| nationality = [[United States]]
| institution = [[Harvard University]]
| field = [[Political Science]], [[Sovietologist]]
| alma_mater = [[Harvard University]]
| influences = [[Archibald Cary Coolidge]]
| influenced = [[John F. Kennedy]] [[George F. Kennan]]
| notable_students = [[Joseph P. Kennedy, Jr.]]{{*}}[[John F. Kennedy]]{{*}}[[Ted Kennedy]]
| spouse = Effie Toye
}}
{{infobox military unit
|unit_name= 96th Aero Squadron
|image= [[File:96th Aero Squadron - Group.jpg|300px]]
|caption= Aviators of the 96th Aero Squadron, November 1918
|dates= 1917–1919
|country={{flag|United States|23px}}
|allegiance=
|branch= [[File:US Army Air Roundel.svg|15px]]  [[Air Service, United States Army]]
|type= Squadron
|role= Day Bombardment
|size=
|command_structure= [[American Expeditionary Forces]] (AEF)
|garrison=
|garrison_label=
|nickname=
|patron=
|motto=
|colors=
|colors_label=
|march=
|mascot=
|equipment= [[Breguet 14]] B.2 bomber
|equipment_label= Aircraft type
|battles= [[Battle of Saint-Mihiel]] [[Meuse-Argonne Offensive]]
|anniversaries=
|decorations= [[Legion of Honor]] [[Croix de Guerre ]] [[Silver Star Citation]] Pershing Citation
|battle_honours=
|battle_honours_label=
|disbanded=
}}
'''Bruce Campbell Hopper''' (August 24, 1892 – July 6, 1973) was a World War 1 aviator, newspaper reporter, author, historian, and lecturer who served as an associate professor of government at [[Harvard University]] from 1930 to 1961. He was an early expert on the [[Soviet Union]], authoring influential articles, informing US [[State department]] policy, and lecturing extensively for over thirty years. Among his many students were [[Joseph P. Kennedy, Jr.]], [[John F. Kennedy]], and [[Ted Kennedy]]. Dr. Hopper advised John F. Kennedy on the completion of his thesis at Harvard, eventually published as "[[Why England Slept]]".<ref name=google.com>{{cite book|last1=Oren|first1=Ido|title=Our enemies and US : America's rivalries and the making of political science|date=2003|publisher=Cornell University Press|location=Ithaca, N.Y.|isbn=9780801435669|edition=1. publ.}}</ref><ref name="auto">archiveswest.orbiscascade.org bruce hopper</ref><ref name="thecrimson.com">{{cite web|url=http://www.thecrimson.com/article/1973/7/10/government-professor-bruce-hopper-teacher-of/|title=Government Professor Bruce Hopper, Teacher of Three Kennedys, Dies|publisher=}}</ref><ref name="google.com1">{{cite web|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=8oeBbeJ5hSkC&pg=PT114&dq=kennedy+jack+perrett+bruce+hopper&source=gbs_toc_r&cad=3#v=onepage&q=hopper&f=false|title=Jack|publisher=}}</ref>

== Early life ==
Born in [[Litchfield, Illinois]] Hopper spent his childhood in [[Billings, Montana]]. His father, Joseph Hopper, came to the United States from [[Balloch, Highland]], Scotland in 1882 and was a rancher. His mother was Katherine Turnbull. Hopper began college studies at the University of Montana in 1913. He joined the Sigma Nu fraternity at Montana in 1914. In 1916 the Montana Harvard Club recognized his sharp intelligence and potential by offering him a scholarship. He transferred to Harvard shortly thereafter.<ref name="auto"/><ref name="google.com2">{{cite web|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=HqXvAAAAMAAJ&printsec=frontcover&dq=yellowstone+county+world+war+gail&hl=en&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjRxOT285PKAhVQ_WMKHTPEDNQQ6AEIJjAA#v=onepage&q=hopper&f=false|title=Yellowstone County, Montana, in the World War, 1917-1918-1919|publisher=}}</ref><ref name="archive.org">{{cite web|url=https://archive.org/stream/deltasigmanufra03nugoog/deltasigmanufra03nugoog_djvu.txt|title=Full text of "The Delta of Sigma Nu Fraternity"|publisher=}}</ref>

== World War 1 ==

Hopper left Harvard in the spring of 1917 and volunteered for the "American Field Service" (AFS) as a truck driver, carrying supplies for the French Army on the [[Soissons]] and [[Reims]] fronts. When the United States joined the war he resigned from the AFS and enlisted as a Private, First Class in the [[United States Army]] Signal Corps, [[American Expeditionary Forces]] (AEF). The Army selected him for flight training, and upon completion of that training, commissioned him as a 1st Lieutenant. He went on to serve as a combat pilot, flying the [[Breguet 14]] B.2 bomber with the [[96th Aero Squadron]] in France. Early in 1918 he was injured in a crash, but quickly recovered and flew extensively until the end of hostilities. He was credited with downing two enemy aircraft and was promoted to Captain in October 1918. Highly decorated for his service, Hopper received the French [[Legion of Honor]], the French [[Croix de Guerre]], a [[Silver Star Citation]], and a Pershing Citation, among other awards. At the time of the Armistice, Hopper was one of two survivors of the original 96th Aero squadron.<ref name="auto"/><ref name="google.com2"/><ref name="google.com3">{{cite web|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=MspgCgAAQBAJ&pg=PA231&lpg=PA231&dq=whisenhunt+new+perspectives+russian+relations+hopper&source=bl&ots=nviEcnhSHe&sig=H1XYrx2qMD3afU9m4aI9WofIqC8&hl=en&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiywr7o9JPKAhUU4mMKHS2KCN8Q6AEILzAD#v=onepage&q=hopper&f=false|title=New Perspectives on Russian-American Relations|publisher=}}</ref><ref name="google.com4">{{cite web|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=3Os_Nv5APLwC&q=hopper#v=snippet&q=hopper&f=false|title=Hostile Skies|publisher=}}</ref><ref name="google.com5">{{cite web|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=GG09AQAAMAAJ&pg=PA650&lpg=PA650&dq=mead+harvard+military+record+world+war&source=bl&ots=qgjnRgSEAA&sig=CVZtzu0uFI4rjrvZmHnBX4G7B2M&hl=en&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwirkvG39ZPKAhUI62MKHQ78BN0Q6AEIMDAD#v=onepage&q=hopper&f=false|title=Harvard's Military Record in the World War|publisher=}}</ref>

In 1919 Hopper received orders to the General Headquarters, AEF, Paris for duty in the Army Historical Section/Sorbonne Detachment. While there he wrote both a unit history of the 96th Aero Squadron and the Army’s official military history of the day bombing campaign in France, entitled “When the Air was Young: American Day Bombardment, AEF, 1917–1918”. <ref name="auto"/><ref name="google.com4"/><ref name="google.com5"/>

== Inter-War years ==
Upon his discharge from the Army in 1919, he studied briefly at both the [[Sorbonne]] and [[Exeter College, Oxford]] University.<ref name="auto"/><ref name="archive.org"/>

From 1921 to 1923 Hopper and a friend traveled the world. They supported themselves by taking jobs as reporters for various English language newspapers, journeying across Europe, the [[Middle East]], Russia, India, [[Southeast Asia]], and China.<ref name="auto"/> <ref name="archive.org"/><ref name="google.com4"/> <ref>{{cite web|url=http://newspaperarchives.vassar.edu/cgi-bin/vassar?a=d&d=miscellany19401211-01.2.19|title=Vassar Miscellany News 11 December 1940 — Vassar Newspaper Archive|publisher=}}</ref>
He returned to his studies at Harvard in 1923 and finished his B.S. in 1924, followed by an M.A. in 1925. In August of 1924 Hopper married 26-year-old Effie Toye, of New York. He listed his occupation as “journalist”. They married in [[Dublin, New Hampshire]].<ref name="auto"/><ref name="thecrimson.com"/><ref>https://familysearch.org/ark:/61903/3:1:S3HY-DT5K-4M?mode=g&i=876&wc=MJ7D-JWL%3A1042766401%3Fcc%3D1520640&cc=1520640</ref>

From 1927 to 1929 he continued his studies in the Soviet Union as a fellow of the [[Institute of Current World Affairs]], sponsored by businessman/philanthropist [[Charles Richard Crane]]. Upon his return to the United States, he found himself one of the earliest academic experts on the [[Soviet Union]].<ref name="google.com"/> <ref name="auto"/><ref name="thecrimson.com"/>

Hopper completed his Ph.D. at Harvard in 1930, joining the faculty as an assistant professor of government. Harvard's President, [[Abbott Lawrence Lowell]], encouraged him to publish articles and perform public speaking on the Soviet Union throughout the 1930s. Both shared an interest in exploring how the Soviet experience might be of benefit to the American economy as it suffered through the [[Great Depression]].<ref name="google.com"/><ref name="auto"/><ref name="thecrimson.com"/>

Hopper frequently returned to the Soviet Union during the 1930s, again under the sponsorship of Charles Richard Crane. His trips served both academic interests and those of the US [[State Department]] who debriefed him upon his return and promptly classified many of his observations. This had the effect of limiting his publishing opportunities, and his supporters felt that fact held back his academic advancement to full professorship. Others, however, believed the real obstacle to his advancement lay in the lack of documentation in his research and writing. Everyone agreed, however, that he was a gifted orator and students flocked to his lectures. US State Department officials such as [[George F. Kennan]] and [[Loy W. Henderson]] were in frequent contact with Dr. Hopper regarding policy towards Soviet Russia during the 1930s.<ref name="auto"/>

Dr. Hopper was initially sympathetic to Soviet efforts to collectivize industry and agriculture under state control, believing the United States could benefit by emulating their centralized planning models. His writing in the early 1930s reflected his belief that the [[Bolsheviks]] were modernizing "backward" portions of Asia by advancing industrialization in the Far East, a positive improvement in his estimation. In the early 1930s he correctly predicted that rising Soviet power and influence in the Far East would lead to conflict there with the United States. In view of the famines and widespread starvation that gripped Soviet Russia in 1930s, Hopper coined the phrase that Russia was ready to "starve itself great".<ref name="google.com"/><ref name="auto"/><ref name="google.com3"/>

His Russophile views began to wane by 1938, however, when he wrote the "virtue (had) departed from the leaders in Russia."<ref name="auto"/><ref>Modernization from the Other Shore: American Observers ...</ref>

== Association with John F. Kennedy ==

Dr. Hopper was made an associate professor of government in 1937, teaching political science and international affairs. Three Kennedy brothers (Joseph, John, and Ted) were among his students at Harvard.<ref name="thecrimson.com"/> <ref name="google.com1"/><ref>{{cite web|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=hxpvsfxjfMAC&pg=PA204&lpg=PA204&dq=bethell+harvard+observed++bruce+hopper&source=bl&ots=qEiwHUY1gI&sig=HkWFmgeIF-RP7vMFEXvnu_Bb75Y&hl=en&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwi_prqA95PKAhUS2GMKHeHQDkwQ6AEIHDAA#v=onepage&q=bethell%20harvard%20observed%20%20bruce%20hopper&f=false|title=Harvard Observed|publisher=}}</ref>

He served as the advisor for John F. Kennedy's thesis, later published as "[[Why England Slept]]". Kennedy began his thesis in the winter of 1939/40 and came to Dr. Hopper’s study once a week for progress reviews. Dr. Hopper’s study featured oak-paneling, leather armchairs, and a large fireplace. One wall had the following inscription in Latin: "It will give you pleasure to look back on this scene of suffering". JFK believed that giving aid to Britain and France was a moral imperative, no matter what risk it presented to dragging the United States into war. The two men discussed JFK’s thesis and the prospects for war at length, with Dr. Hopper’s combat veteran background adding to his credibility.<ref name="google.com1"/>

== World War 2 ==
Dr. Hopper took a six-year sabbatical from teaching during (and immediately after) World War II to serve with the [[Office of Strategic Services]] (OSS, precursor to the Central Intelligence Agency) in Sweden, where he observed and interpreted Soviet activities in the Baltic region. Dr. Hopper also served as Chief Historian for the 8th Air Force and U.S. Strategic Air Forces. He subsequently served in the Pentagon as special consultant and speechwriter to General [[Carl A. Spaatz]]. Dr. Hopper and Gen. Spaatz had served together in World War I.<ref name="google.com"/><ref>{{cite web|url=http://lcdl.library.cofc.edu/lcdl/catalog/lcdl:68760|title=Letter from Gertrude Sanford Legendre, August 29, 1944 – LCDL Scholar Search|publisher=}}</ref>

== Post war ==
In 1946–47, Dr. Hopper served on the site selection board for the new [[United States Air Force Academy]]. Upon his return to academia in 1947, he found himself passed over for promotion above associate professor. The classified nature of most of Hopper’s research output did not help his prospects, as well as the extended time he spent away from academia with the military, two years more than most of his colleagues. Post war he shifted his teaching interests more towards air power as a factor in international affairs and did not become significantly involved in the new Russian Research Center, known today as the Davis Center for Russian and Eurasian Studies.<ref name="google.com"/><ref name="auto"/><ref name="thecrimson.com"/><ref>{{cite web|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=urylSyuA3zwC&pg=PA146&lpg=PA146&dq=nauman+wings+modernism+bruce+hopper&source=bl&ots=vajVvLIznL&sig=eHrN7JZTfWAQaTns2EhYF2cf188&hl=en&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwi1w-K495PKAhWELmMKHSEGAaYQ6AEIHTAA#v=onepage&q=bruce%20hopper&f=false|title=On the Wings of Modernism|publisher=}}</ref><ref>{{cite web|url=http://daviscenter.fas.harvard.edu|title=Home Page|work=Davis Center for Russian and Eurasian Studies}}</ref>

In the 1940s and 1950s, Dr. Hopper was a frequent speaker at the [[Naval War College]] and [[United States Army War College|Army War College]] on Soviet/Russian affairs. He also traveled extensively, performing speaking tours across Europe and Central America. He was a Trustee of the World Peace Foundation and held membership in the Institute of Pacific Relations, the American-Russian Institute, the Council of the Foreign Policy Association, and the [[Council on Foreign Relations]].<ref name="auto"/><ref name="thecrimson.com"/>

After retiring from Harvard in 1961, Dr. Hopper lived in Santa Barbara, California.<ref name="google.com"/><ref name="thecrimson.com"/>

Shortly before his death he wrote that he was "grateful to Harvard beyond measurement". He added, "Of all the privileges granted to me, I cared most about teaching, especially on my return from World War II". He concluded, "I miss the classroom where it is always morning, and night can never come".<ref name="thecrimson.com"/>

Hopper died on July 6, 1973. His papers are divided between the Library of Congress, the University of Montana, and the University of California, Santa Barbara.<ref name="auto"/>

== References ==
{{Research help|Mil}}
{{reflist}}

{{DEFAULTSORT:Hopper, Bruce Campbell}}
[[Category:1892 births]]
[[Category:1973 deaths]]
[[Category:Harvard University alumni]]

Beretta M1918

2016-03-06T12:43:53Z

Hazard-Bot: Bot: Adding {{Research help|Mil}}; please leave feedback/comments at Wikipedia talk:Research help #ResHelp

{{Infobox Weapon|is_ranged=yes|
| image=Beretta-model-1918-submachine-gun.jpg
| caption=
| name=Beretta Model 1918
| type=[[Submachine gun]]
| origin=[[Kingdom of Italy]]
| era=
| design_date=
| prod_design_date=
| serv_design_date=
| used_by=See Users
| wars=
| spec_type=
| caliber=9mm .22 calibre
| part_length=12 in (305 mm)
| cartridge=[[9 mm Glisenti|9mm Glisenti]] .22LR
| feed=25 round detachable box
| action=Blowback, automatic only
| rate=900 round/min
|velocity=
| weight=7 lb 3 oz (3.3 kg)
| length=43 in (1092 mm)
| variants=Model 1918 Model 1918/30 Hafdasa C-1
| number=
}}

The '''Beretta Model 1918''' was a [[submachine gun]] that entered service in 1918 with the [[Italian armed forces]]. Designed initially as a [[semi-automatic rifle]], the weapon came with an overhead inserted magazine, an unconventional design based on the simplicity of allowing a spent round to be replaced using only gravity. The gun was a spiritual successor to the [[Villar Perosa]] Submachine gun, and as such it can be considered the first submachine gun issued to and used by the Italian armed forces, and is possibly the first SMG used as a general-issue combat weapon.

Another variant was the Model 1918/30 with the magazine inserted underneath and came with a bayonet.<ref>http://s3.postimage.org/yi28hz9rr/DSCF1198.jpg</ref> The Model 1918/30 was also manufactured in Argentina by Hafdasa as the C-1, which formed the basis of the [[Hafdasa C-4|Ballester-Riguard submachine gun]].

==Design==
*Barrel rifling: 6 grooves with a right hand twist (6-right)
* Automatic carbine, cal. 9mm, having a barrel length of 12.5" and a magazine capacity of 25 rounds.

==Users==
* {{flagcountry|Albania}}
* {{flagcountry|Argentina}}
* {{flagcountry|Italy}}

==See also==
*[[Hafdasa C-4]], an Argentine derivative of the Beretta Model 1918.
*[[Italian submachine guns]]

==References==
{{Research help|Mil}}
{{reflist}}
* [http://www.comandosupremo.com/M1918.html Beretta Model 1918 Sub-Machine Gun]
* [http://www.foro.fullaventura.com/viewtopic.php?f=50&t=48764 Ballester-Riguard submachine gun]

{{Beretta firearms}}
{{WWIIItalianInfWeapons}}

[[Category:Beretta submachine guns|M1918]]
[[Category:World War I Italian infantry weapons]]
[[Category:World War II infantry weapons of Italy]]
[[Category:World War II submachine guns]]
[[Category:Submachine guns of Italy]]

{{Gun-stub}}

Frances Ames

2016-03-06T11:29:55Z

Hazard-Bot: Bot: Adding {{Research help|Med}}; please leave feedback/comments at Wikipedia talk:Research help #ResHelp

{{good article}}
{{EngvarB|date=September 2014}}
{{Use dmy dates|date=September 2014}}
{{Infobox medical person
|name = Frances Ames
|image =
|caption =
|birth_date = {{Birth date|df=yes|1920|04|20}}
|birth_place = [[Pretoria]], [[South Africa]]
|death_date = {{Death date and age|df=yes|2002|11|11|1920|04|20}}
|death_place = [[Rondebosch|Rondebosch, South Africa]]
|profession =
|specialism =
|research_field =
|known_for = Exposing medical neglect of Steve Biko
|years_active =
|education = [[University of Cape Town]]
|work_institutions = [[Groote Schuur Hospital]], [[Valkenberg Hospital]]
|prizes = [[Order of the Star of South Africa|Star of South Africa]]<ref>[http://www.gov.za/sites/www.gov.za/files/20855c.pdf Class V: Member]. See also: ''South African Journal of Science''. August 1999. 95 (8): 324.</ref>
|relations =
}}

'''Frances Rix Ames''' (20 April 1920 – 11 November 2002) was a South African [[neurologist]], psychiatrist, and human rights activist, best known for leading the medical ethics inquiry into the death of [[anti-apartheid]] activist [[Steve Biko]], who died from medical neglect after being [[Medical torture|tortured]] in police custody. When the South African Medical and Dental Council (SAMDC) declined to discipline the chief district surgeon and his assistant who treated Biko, Ames and a group of five academics and physicians raised funds and fought an eight-year legal battle against the medical establishment. Ames risked her personal safety and academic career in her pursuit of justice, taking the dispute to the [[Supreme Court of South Africa|South African Supreme Court]], where she eventually won the case in 1985.

Born in Pretoria and raised in poverty in Cape Town, Ames became the first woman to receive a Doctor of Medicine degree from the [[University of Cape Town]] in 1964.<ref name="hrc"/> Ames studied the effects of cannabis on the brain and published several articles on the subject; seeing the therapeutic benefits of cannabis on patients in her own hospital, she became an early proponent of legalization for [[medical cannabis|medicinal use]]. She headed the neurology department at [[Groote Schuur Hospital]] before retiring in 1985, but continued to lecture at Valkenberg and Alexandra Hospital. After [[apartheid]] was finally dismantled in 1994, Ames testified at the [[Truth and Reconciliation Commission (South Africa)|Truth and Reconciliation Commission]] about her work on the "Biko doctors" medical ethics inquiry. In 1999, [[Nelson Mandela]] awarded Ames the Star of South Africa, the country's highest civilian award, in recognition of her work on behalf of human rights.

==Early life==
Ames was born at [[Voortrekkerhoogte]] in Pretoria, South Africa, on 20 April 1920, to Frank and Georgina Ames, the second of three daughters. Her mother, who was raised in a Boer concentration camp by Ames' grandmother, a nurse in the [[Second Boer War]], was also a nurse. Ames never knew her father, who left her mother alone to raise three daughters in poverty.<ref name="unde">van der Unde, Ina (November 1995). [http://archive.samj.org.za/1995%20VOL%2085%20Jan-Dec/Articles/11%20November/1.20%20INTERVIEW.A%20WOMAN%20OF%20SUBSTANCE%20,FRANCES%20AMES.pdf Interview: A woman of substance]. ''South African Medical Journal'', 85 (11): 1202–1203.</ref> With her mother unable to care for her family, Ames spent part of her childhood in a Catholic orphanage where she was stricken with [[typhoid fever]].<ref name="Sidley"/><ref name="rich"/> Her mother later rejoined the family and moved them to Cape Town, where Ames attended the [[Rustenburg School for Girls]].<ref name="hrc">Bateman, Chris (January 2003). [http://www.samj.org.za/index.php/samj/article/viewFile/2030/1288 Frances Ames – Human Rights Champion]. ''South African Medical Journal'', 93 (1): 14–15. Retrieved January 15, 2015.</ref> She enrolled at the [[University of Cape Town]] (UCT) medical school where she received her [[MBChB]] degree in 1942.<ref name="dent">Dent, David M.; Gonda Perez (June 2010). [http://www.samj.org.za/index.php/samj/article/view/5422/4206 The place and the person: Named buildings, rooms and places on the campus of the Faculty of Health Sciences, University of Cape Town]. ''South African Medical Journal'', 100 (6):4–5. Retrieved January 15, 2015.</ref>

==Medical career==
{{ external media
| float = right
| width = 240px
| image1 = [http://www.samj.org.za/index.php/samj/article/viewFile/5422/4206/29461 Portrait of Frances Ames] (SAMJ)<ref name="dent"/>
}}
In Cape Town, Ames interned at [[Groote Schuur Hospital]]; she also worked in the [[Transkei]] region as a general practitioner. She earned her MD degree in 1964 from UCT, the first woman to do so.<ref name="shaw">Shaw, Gerald (21 November 2014). [http://www.theguardian.com/news/2002/nov/22/guardianobituaries Frances Ames]. ''The Guardian''. Retrieved January 15, 2015.</ref> Ames became head of the neurology department at Groote Schuur Hospital in 1976.<ref name="Breier">Breier, Mignonne; Angelique Wildschut (2006). ''Doctors in a Divided Society: The Profession and Education of Medical Practitioners in South Africa''. HSRC Press. p. 61. ISBN 0796921539."Frances Ames, first woman professor in the UCT Medical School, who was appointed professor of neurology in 1976." See also the "Truth & Reconciliation NRF project report", chapter 2, p. 72: "At UCT, however, a ceiling existed and it was not for years before a women was appointed as full professor. Frances Ames seems to have been the first, appointed as Professor of Neurology in 1976." Note, Ames was never appointed as a full professor.</ref> She was made an associate professor in 1978.<ref name="UCT"/> Ames retired in 1985, but continued to work part-time at both Valkenberg and Alexandra Hospital as a lecturer in the UCT Psychiatry and Mental Health department.<ref name="UCT"/> In 1997, UCT made Ames an associate professor emeritus of neurology; she received an honorary doctorate in medicine from UCT in 2001.<ref name="dent"/> According to Pat Sidley of the ''British Medical Journal'', Ames "was never made a full professor, and believed that this was because she was a woman."<ref name="Sidley"/>

==Biko affair==
South African anti-apartheid activist [[Steve Biko]], who had formerly studied medicine at the [[University of Natal Medical School]], was detained by [[Port Elizabeth]] security police on 18 August 1977 and held for 20 days. Sometime between 6–7 September, Biko was beaten and tortured into a coma.<ref name="shaw"/> According to allegations by Ames and others, surgeon Ivor Lang, along with chief district surgeon Benjamin Tucker, collaborated with the police and covered up the abuse, leading to Biko's death from his injuries on 12 September. According to Bentar & Bentar 2012, "there were clear ethical breaches on the part of the doctors who were responsible" for Biko.<ref name="Benatar">Benatar, Solomon R.; David Benatar (1 June 2012). [http://www.highbeam.com/doc/1G1-293812463.html From Medical Manners to Moral Reasoning: An Historical Overview of Bioethics in the University of Cape Town's Faculty of Health Sciences]. ''South African Medical Journal''. {{subscription required}}</ref><ref>Smith, L. (13 September 2012). [http://www.highbeam.com/doc/1G1-302323255.html Not Much Changed since Biko's Death]. ''The Mercury''. {{subscription required}}</ref><ref name="grundy">Grundy, Trevor (27 November 2002). [http://www.heraldscotland.com/sport/spl/aberdeen/frances-ames-human-rights-activist-who-battled-for-justice-after-the-death-of-steve-biko-in-south-africa-1.132947 Frances Ames; Human rights activist who battled for justice after the death of Steve Biko in South Africa]. ''The Herald''. Retrieved January 29, 2015.</ref><ref name="myser">Myser, Catherine (2011). "The Social Functions of Bioethics in South Africa". ''Bioethics Around the Globe''. Oxford University Press. pp. 137–139. ISBN 0199749825.</ref>

{{quote box|align=left|width=25%|quote="In those days many district surgeons found themselves able to overlook regular police torture in prisons, to comply with police orders that conflicted with medically appropriate treatment, and at best to remain silent in the face of the obvious ethical challenges posed by the political climate. Few voiced their opposition to the systematic breaches of medical ethics occasioned by apartheid. Ames was one of the few."|source=Pat Sidley<ref name="Sidley"/>}}
When the South African Medical and Dental Council (SAMDC) along with the support of the Medical Association of South Africa (MASA), declined to discipline the district surgeons in Biko's death, two groups of physicians filed separate formal complaints with the SAMDC regarding the lack of professionalism shown by Biko's doctors. Both cases made their way to the South African Supreme Court in an attempt to force the SAMDC to conduct a formal inquiry into the medical ethics of Lang and Tucker. One case was filed by Ames, along with [[Trefor Jenkins]] and Phillip Tobias of the [[University of the Witwatersrand]]; a second case was filed by Dumisani Mzana, Yosuf Veriava of Coronationville Hospital, and Tim Wilson of Alexandra Health Centre.<ref name="Baldwin"/><ref>Biko doctors: Verdic 'lenient'. ''Weekend Argus''. July 6, 1985.</ref>

As Ames and the small group of physicians pursued an inquiry into members of their own profession, Ames was called a [[whistleblower]].<ref name="Baldwin">Baldwin-Ragaven, Laurel; Leslie London; Jeanelle De Gruchy (1999). ''An Ambulance of the Wrong Colour: Health Professionals, Human Rights and Ethics in South Africa''. Juta and Company Ltd. pp. 91–100. ISBN 1919713484.</ref> Her position at the university was threatened by her superiors and her colleagues asked her to drop the case.<ref name="McCarthy"/> By pursuing the case against the Biko doctors, Ames received personal threats and risked her safety.<ref name="Niekerk"/><ref name="UCT"/> Baldwin-Ragaven et al. note that the medical association "closed ranks in support of colleagues who colluded with the security police in the torture and death of detainees [and] also attempted to silence and discredit those doctors who stood up for human rights and who demanded disciplinary action against their colleagues."<ref name="Baldwin"/>

After eight years, Ames won the case in 1985 when the South African Supreme Court ruled in her favor. With Ames' help, the case forced the medical regulatory body to reverse their decision. The two doctors who treated Biko were finally disciplined and major medical reforms followed.<ref name="rich"/><ref name="myser"/> According to Bentar & Bentar 2012, the case "played an important role in sensitising the medical profession to medical ethical issues in South Africa."<ref name="Benatar"/>

==Cannabis research==
Ames studied the [[effects of cannabis]] in 1958, publishing her work in ''[[British Journal of Psychiatry |The British Journal of Psychiatry]]'' as "A clinical and metabolic study of acute intoxication with ''Cannabis sativa'' and its role in the model psychoses". Her work is cited extensively throughout the cannabis literature. She opposed the [[War on Drugs]] and was a proponent of the [[Medical cannabis|therapeutic benefits of cannabis]], particularly for people with [[multiple sclerosis]] (MS).<ref>Ames, Frances (December 12, 1995). [http://archive.samj.org.za/1995%20VOL%2085%20Jan-Dec/Articles/12%20December/1.4%20GREAT%20DEBATES-%20A%20PLEA%20FOR%20DECRIMINALISATION,%20CANNABIS%20SATIVA-%20DECEPTIVE%20WEED.pdf Great Debates: Cannabis sativa – a plea for decriminalisation]. ''South African Medical Journal'', 85 (12): 1268–1269. For secondary source coverage of this article, see: Sboros, Marika (January 10, 1996). Curse or blessing-the flourishing dagga controversy. ''The Star''.</ref><ref name="hrc"/><ref>Bateman, Chris (August 2000). [http://archive.samj.org.za/2000%20VOL%2090%20Jan-Dec/Articles/08%20August/1.3%20NEWS.pdf Get pragmatic about pot]. ''South African Medical Journal'', 90 (8): 752–753.</ref> Ames observed first-hand how cannabis (known as ''dagga'' in South Africa) relieved spasm in MS patients and helped paraplegics in the spinal injuries ward of her hospital.<ref name="Froman">Froman, Colin (2005). ''The Barbershop Quartet: A Surgical Saga''. Trafford Publishing. ISBN 1412047250.</ref> She continued to study the effects of cannabis in the 1990s, publishing several articles about cannabis-induced [[euphoria]] and the effects of cannabis on the brain with co-author David J. Castle of [[St Vincent's Hospital, Melbourne]].<ref>Castle, David; Murray, Robin; Deepak Cyril D’Souza (2009) [2004]. ''Marijuana and Madness: Psychiatry and Neurobiology''. Cambridge University Press. ISBN 9781107000216.</ref>

==Personal life==
Ames was married to editorial writer David Castle of the ''[[Cape Times]]'' and they had four sons. She was 47 years old when her husband died unexpectedly in 1967.<ref name="UCT"/> After her husband's death, Ames's housekeeper Rosalina helped raise the family. Ames wrote about the experience in her memoir, ''Mothering in an Apartheid Society'' (2002).<ref name="shaw"/>

==Death==
Ames struggled with [[leukemia]] for some time.<ref name="grundy"/> Before her death, she told an interviewer, "I shall go on until I drop."<ref>[https://www.uct.ac.za/mondaypaper/archives/?id=3043 Tale of two mothers in a divided society]. Monday Monthly. University of Cape Town, 21 (2): 28 May 2002.</ref> She continued to work for UCT as a part-time lecturer at [[Valkenberg Hospital]] until six weeks before she died at home in [[Rondebosch]] on 11 November 2002.<ref name="hrc"/><ref name="UCT">[https://www.uct.ac.za/mondaypaper/archives/?id=3451 Passing of UCT legend Frances Ames]. Monday Monthly. University of Cape Town, 21 (35): 15 November 2002.</ref> Representing UCT's psychiatry department, Greg McCarthy gave the eulogy at the funeral.<ref name="McCarthy">McCarthy, Greg (January 2003). [http://www.samj.org.za/index.php/samj/article/download/2011/1270 Frances Rix Ames]. SAMJ Forum.
''South African Medical Journal'', 93 (1): 48. Retrieved January 15, 2015.</ref> Ames was cremated, and according to her wishes, her ashes were combined with hemp seed and dispersed outside of Valkenberg Hospital where her memorial service was held.<ref name="grundy"/><ref name="hrc"/>

==Legacy==
{{ external media
| align = right
| width = 230px
| video1= April 1996: [http://www.aparchive.com/metadata/view/163d3daadd40c97bbef0e3abadf8342b?subClipIn=00:00:00&subClipOut=00:02:38 Frances Ames talking about the poisoning of political activist Siphiwo Mtimkulu]. (begins at 00:01:18)
}}
South African neurosurgeon Colin Froman referred to Ames as the "great and unorthodox protagonist for the medical use of marijuana many years before the current interest in its use as a therapeutic drug".<ref name="Froman"/> J. P. van Niekerk of the ''[[South African Medical Journal]]'' notes that "Frances Ames led by conviction and example" and history eventually justified her action in the Biko affair.<ref name="Niekerk"/>

Ames's work on the Biko affair led to major medical reforms in South Africa, including the disbanding and replacement of the old apartheid-era medical organisations which failed to uphold the medical standards of the profession.<ref name="myser"/> According to van Niekerk, "the most enduring lesson for South African medicine was the clarification of the roles of medical practitioners when there is a question of dual responsibilities. This is now embodied inter alia in the SAMA Code of Conduct and in legal interpretations of doctors' responsibilities".<ref name="Niekerk">van Niekerk, J. P. (January 2003). [http://www.samj.org.za/index.php/samj/article/view/1994/1253 The power of one good person]. ''South African Medical Journal'', 93 (1): 1.</ref>

Ames testified during the medical hearings at the [[Truth and Reconciliation Commission (South Africa)|Truth and Reconciliation Commission]] in 1997. Archbishop [[Desmond Tutu]] honored Ames as "one of the handful of doctors who stood up to the apartheid regime and brought to book those doctors who had colluded with human rights abuse."<ref name="rich">Richmond, Caroline (4 January 2003). Frances Ames. ''The Lancet'', 361 (9351): 91. {{doi|10.1016/S0140-6736(03)12105-8}}</ref> In acknowledgement of her work on behalf of human rights in South Africa, [[Nelson Mandela]] awarded Ames the Order of the Star of South Africa in 1999, the highest civilian award in the country.<ref name="Sidley">Sidley, Pat (7 December 2002). [http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC1124818/ Frances Ames]. ''BMJ: British Medical Journal'', 325 (7376): 1365. Retrieved January 15, 2015.</ref><ref name="grundy"/>

==Selected publications==
*''Mothering in an Apartheid Society'' (2002)

==References==
{{Research help|Med}}
{{Reflist|30em}}

==Further reading==
{{wikiquote}}
*[[Raymond Hoffenberg|Hoffenberg, Raymond]] (May 1994). [http://archive.samj.org.za/1994%20VOL%2084%20Jan-Dec/Articles/05%20May/1.1%20EDITORIAL%20-%20VAN%20DIE%20REDAKSIE.pdf Doctors and society – the Biko lecture]. ''South African Medical Journal'', 84: 245–249.
*McLean, G.R.; Trefor Jenkins (2003). [https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/14577454 The Steve Biko Affair: A Case Study in Medical Ethics]. ''Developing World Bioethics'', 3 (1): 77–95. {{subscription required}}
*Taitz, Jerold (May 1986). [http://www.jstor.org/stable/1096126 Medical Mores, Judicial Review and the Last Days of Steve Biko]. ''The Modern Law Review'' 49 (3): 374–381. {{subscription required}}
*Veriava, F. (2004) [http://www.wits.ac.za/files/resb598dabcc70c4779a723025f48e0cd10.pdf Ought the notion of 'informed consent' to be cast in stone?] ''South African Journal on Human Rights''. University of the Witwatersrand. 20. Retrieved January 15, 2015.

{{Persondata 
| NAME = Ames, Frances
| ALTERNATIVE NAMES =
| SHORT DESCRIPTION = South African physician
| DATE OF BIRTH = 20 April 1920
| PLACE OF BIRTH = Pretoria, South Africa
| DATE OF DEATH = 11 November 2002
| PLACE OF DEATH = Cape Town, South Africa
}}
{{DEFAULTSORT:Ames, Frances}}
[[Category:1920 births]]
[[Category:2002 deaths]]
[[Category:Anti-apartheid activists]]
[[Category:Cannabis researchers]]
[[Category:People from Cape Town]]
[[Category:People from Pretoria]]
[[Category:South African human rights activists]]
[[Category:South African physicians]]
[[Category:South African whistleblowers]]
[[Category:Steve Biko affair]]
[[Category:University of Cape Town alumni]]
[[Category:Alumni of Rustenburg School for Girls]]

American Journal of Epidemiology

2016-03-06T11:17:45Z

Hazard-Bot: Bot: Adding {{Research help|Med}}; please leave feedback/comments at Wikipedia talk:Research help #ResHelp

{{Use mdy dates|date=September 2011}}
{{Infobox journal
| title = American Journal of Epidemiology
| cover =
| editor = [[Moyses Szklo]]
| discipline = [[Public health]], Medicine
| language = English language
| abbreviation = Am J Epidemiol
| country = {{flagicon|USA}}
| frequency = Semi-monthly
| history =
| openaccess =
| website = http://aje.oxfordjournals.org
| publisher=[[Oxford University Press]] for the [[Johns Hopkins Bloomberg School of Public Health]]
| impact = 5.230
| impact-year = 2014
| eISSN = 1476–6256
| ISSN = 0002-9262
}}

The '''[http://aje.oxfordjournals.org/ American Journal of Epidemiology]''' (AJE) is a [[peer reviewed|peer-reviewed]] journal for [[empirical research]] findings, opinion pieces, and methodological developments in the field of [[epidemiology|epidemiological]] research. The current Editor-in-Chief is Dr. [[Moyses Szklo]].

Articles published in AJE are indexed by [[PubMed]], [[Embase]], and a number of other databases. AJE offers open access options for authors. It is published semi-monthly. Entire issues have been dedicated to abstracts from academic meetings (Society of Epidemiologic Research, North American Congress of Epidemiology), the history of the [[Epidemic Intelligence Service]] of the [[Centers for Disease Control and Prevention]] (CDC),<ref>{{Cite journal|title = Introduction: the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention's Epi-Aids--a fond recollection|url = http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/22135388|journal = American Journal of Epidemiology|date = 2011-12-01|issn = 1476-6256|pmid = 22135388|pages = S1-3|volume = 174|issue = 11 Suppl|doi = 10.1093/aje/kwr303|first = Jeffrey P.|last = Koplan|first2 = William H.|last2 = Foege}}</ref> the life of [[George W. Comstock]],<ref>{{Cite journal|title = George W. Comstock--an appreciation|url = http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/18794222|journal = American Journal of Epidemiology|date = 2008-10-01|issn = 1476-6256|pmid = 18794222|pages = 667|volume = 168|issue = 7|doi = 10.1093/aje/kwn201|first = Moyses|last = Szklo}}</ref> and the celebration of notable anniversaries of schools of public health ([[UC Berkeley School of Public Health|University of California, Berkeley, School of Public Health]];<ref>{{Cite journal|title = The university of california, berkeley, school of public health: honoring the past, shaping the future|url = http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/?term=20880964|journal = American Journal of Epidemiology|date = 1995-11-01|issn = 0002-9262|pmid = 20880964|pages = S1-2|volume = 142|issue = 9 Suppl|doi = 10.1093/aje/142.Supplement_9.S1|first = P. A.|last = Buffler}}</ref> [[Tulane University School of Public Health and Tropical Medicine]];<ref>{{Cite journal|title = Tulane University School of Public Health and Tropical Medicine 100th anniversary. Introduction. From hygiene and tropical medicine to global health|url = http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/?term=23035133|journal = American Journal of Epidemiology|date = 2012-10-01|issn = 1476-6256|pmid = 23035133|pages = S1-3|volume = 176 Suppl 7|doi = 10.1093/aje/kws253|first = Pierre|last = Buekens}}</ref> [[Johns Hopkins Bloomberg School of Public Health]]).

AJE is currently ranked 4th in the field of epidemiology according to [[Google Scholar]].<ref>{{Cite web|title = Google Scholar Metrics|url = https://scholar.google.com/citations?view_op=top_venues&hl=en&vq=med_epidemiology|website = scholar.google.com|accessdate = 2015-09-10}}</ref> It has an [[impact factor]] of 5.230 (as of 2014) and the 5-year impact factor is 5.632 according to [[Journal Citation Reports]].

== History ==
This journal was founded in 1920 and originally named the ''American Journal of Hygiene''. In 1965, the journal acquired its current name - ''American Journal of Epidemiology''. Since its inception, the journal has been based in the [[JHSPH Department of Epidemiology|Department of Epidemiology]] at [[Johns Hopkins Bloomberg School of Public Health]] and is published in association with the [https://epiresearch.org/ Society of Epidemiologic Research].

== Editor-in-Chief: Past and Present ==
* [[William H. Welch]] (1920-1927)
* Roscoe Hyde (1927-1938)
* Martin Frobisher (1938-1948)
* [[David Bodian]] (1948-1957)
* [[Philip Sartwell|Philip E. Sartwell]] (1957-1958)
* Abraham G. Osler (1958-1965)
* Neal Nathanson (1965-1979)
* [[George W. Comstock]] (1979-1988)
* [[Moyses Szklo]] (1988–Present)

==References==
{{Research help|Med}}
{{reflist|30em}}
{{Johns Hopkins University}}

[[Category:Epidemiology journals]]
[[Category:Oxford University Press academic journals]]
[[Category:Biweekly journals]]
[[Category:Publications established in 1965]]

Anglo-ägyptische Darfurexpedition

2016-02-03T10:38:38Z

Hazard-Bot: Bot: Adding {{Research help|Mil}}; please leave feedback/comments at Wikipedia talk:Research help #ResHelp

{{good article}}
{{Use dmy dates|date=July 2011}}
{{Infobox military conflict
| conflict = Anglo-Egyptian Darfur Expedition
| partof = [[World War I]]
| image =[[File:Egypt sudan under british control.jpg|300px]]
| caption = Darfur as a province of the Sudan in 1912
| date =16 March – 6 November 1916
| place = [[Darfur]] now part of [[Sudan]]
|coordinates = {{Coord|13|00|N|25|00|E|display=title}}
| result = Anglo-Egyptian victory Darfur becomes a province of Sudan
| combatant1 = {{flag|British Empire}} {{flagicon image|Flag of Egypt (1882-1922).svg}} [[Sultanate of Egypt]]
| combatant2 = {{flagicon image|Bandera Darfur.svg}} [[Sultanate of Darfur]]
| commander1 = {{flagicon|British Empire}} [[Reginald Wingate]] {{flagicon|British Empire}} [[Philip James Vandeleur Kelly|Philip Kelly]]
| commander2 ={{flagicon image|Bandera Darfur.svg}} [[Ali Dinar]] {{flagicon image|Bandera Darfur.svg}} Ramadan Ali
| units1 =Elements of Mounted Infantry Camel Corps 13th Sudanese Infantry 14th Sudanese Infantry 14th Egyptian Infantry Arab Battalion
| units2 = Fur Army
| strength1 =2,000 all ranks
| strength2 =4,000–6,000 riflemen unknown number of auxiliaries armed with spears
| casualties1 =5 dead 23 wounded
| casualties2 =~231 dead ~1,096 wounded.{{#tag:ref|These are the only casualties recorded, the true amount could be greater.|group=nb}}
| notes =
| campaignbox = {{Campaignbox North African theatre (World War I)}}
}}
The '''Anglo-Egyptian Darfur Expedition''' of 1916 was a military operation by [[British Empire]] and the [[Sultanate of Egypt]], launched as a preemptive invasion of the [[Sultanate of Darfur]].

The [[sultan]] of [[Darfur]] [[Ali Dinar]] had been reïnstated by the British after their victory in the [[Mahdist War]] but during the [[First World War]] he grew restive, refusing his customary tribute to the [[Anglo-Egyptian Sudan|Sudanese government]] and showing partiality to the [[Ottoman Empire]] in 1915.

[[Sirdar]] [[Reginald Wingate]] then organized a force of around 2,000 men; under the command of {{nowrap|[[Lieutenant Colonel (United Kingdom)|Lieutenant-Colonel]]}} [[Philip James Vandeleur Kelly]], the force entered Darfur in March 1916 and decisively defeated the Fur Army at [[Beringia]] and occupied the capital [[El Fasher]] in May. Ali Dinar had already fled to the mountains and his attempts to negotiate a surrender were eventually broken off by the British. His location becoming known, a small force was sent after him and the sultan was killed in action in November 1916. Subsequently, Darfur was fully annexed to the British administration of the [[Anglo-Egyptian Sudan]] and remained part of [[Sudan]] upon its independence.

==Background==
{{further|History of Darfur|History of Sudan}}

In the late 19th and early 20th centuries [[Darfur]], which means "land of the Fur",<ref>{{cite web|accessdate=10 September 2013|title=Q&A: Sudan's Darfur conflict |publisher=BBC News|url=http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/world/africa/3496731.stm}}</ref> was an independent country, located to the west of [[Sudan]] and east of what was then [[French Equatorial Africa]]. It is equal in size to France and can be divided into three regions: a semi [[arid]] region in the north, with very little rain, joining the [[Sahara desert]]; a central region divided in two by the [[Marrah Mountains|Jebal Marra]] [[volcano]], which rises {{convert|10,000|ft}} above [[sea level]] that is surrounded by sand and rock plains to the east and west; and a southern region which has a rich [[alluvial]] type soil and a heavy annual rainfall.<ref>{{cite web|accessdate=8 September 2013|publisher=Darfur Development|title=Darfur: Land, People, and Conflict|url=http://www.darfurdevelopment.org/node/2}}</ref>

The [[Sultanate of Darfur]] was one of the kingdoms that stretched across the centre of Africa. In 1874, it was invaded by its [[Islamic]] neighbours from the south, which resulted in the country being [[annexed]] by Egypt and joined with [[Anglo-Egyptian Sudan]]. This lasted until the [[Mahdist War]] (1881–1889), when Anglo-Egyptian suzerainty was temporarily curtailed by the forces of [[Muhammad Ahmad]], until Anglo-Egyptian control of the region was re-established following the [[battle of Omdurman]] on 2 September 1898. In 1899, [[Ali Dinar]] became the [[Sultan]] of Darfur with the approval of the then [[Sirdar]] [[Herbert Kitchener, 1st Earl Kitchener|Lord Kitchener]], on the condition that he paid an annual tribute to the British. Relations between Dinar and the Anglo-Egyptians were assisted by the Inspector-General [[Rudolf Carl von Slatin]] who had knowledge of the Darfur region and its people.<ref>{{London Gazette|accessdate=8 September 2013|date=24 October 1916|startpage=10366|issue=29800|sup=y|url=http://www.london-gazette.co.uk/issues/29800/supplements/10366}}</ref><ref name=falls>McMunn and Falls, pp.147–153</ref>

The status quo remained until disputes started over what was Darfur's exact western boundary and who had "overlordship" over its frontier districts. The British believed the delay in resolving these disputes, along with anti-government propaganda, led to a change in Dinar's attitude towards them. Their beliefs were not helped by Dinar's refusal to allow any Europeans to enter Darfur.<ref name=gazette10367/> Dinar's domestic policies caused internal unrest among the Arab portion of the population who were generally against him, or in the case of the [[Rizeigat tribe]] from the south-west Darfur, "openly hostile".<ref name=gazette10367/>

On hearing the news of war between the [[British Empire]] and [[Ottoman Empire|Turkey]], Dinar became more defiant and in April 1915 renounced his allegiance to the Anglo-Egyptian Sudan Government, declaring himself pro-Turkish and making contact with them via the [[Senussi]]. At the time, Darfur had a population of just under 1,000,000 controlled by what was described as a "slave army" of about 10,000 men.{{#tag:ref|In 1903, the Fur Army was estimated to be 1,700 cavalry and 6,000 infantry arranged into divisions, but a report prepared just prior to the expedition claimed the numbers had shrunk to 5,000 men.<ref name=d107>Daly, p.107</ref>|group=nb}} By December, affairs had deteriorated to such an extent that a small unit from the [[Egyptian Camel Transport Corps|Egyptian Camel Corps]] was dispatched to protect trade at [[Nahud]], and at the same time act as a warning against Dinar's proposed offensive against the Rizeigat tribe. Dinar instead countered the deployment of the Camel Corps detachment by moving his own troops – forty cavalry and ninety infantry – to reinforce [[Jebel el Hella]]. However, by then the British believed he was preparing for an invasion of Sudan.<ref name=gazette10367>{{London Gazette|accessdate=8 September 2013|date=24 October 1916|startpage=10367|issue=29800|sup=y|url=http://www.london-gazette.co.uk/issues/29800/supplements/10367}}</ref><ref>Daly, p.111</ref>

==Expedition==
[[File:ReginaldWingate.jpg|thumb|alt=Mustached man in officers uniform. With San-Browne belt, sword at waist, wearing gauntlets and holding his pith helmet at waist level in his right hand.|[[Sirdar]] [[Reginald Wingate]]]]

To counter the expected threat to Sudan, Sirdar [[Reginald Wingate]] gathered a force together at Nahud. The commander was British [[Lieutenant Colonel]] [[Philip James Vandeleur Kelly]], of the [[3rd The King's Own Hussars]], on secondment to the [[Egyptian Army]]. The force was composed of:
* Two companies of mounted infantry, commanded by Major Cobden, [[9th Lancers]];
* Five companies from the Camel Corps, commanded by Major Huddleston, [[Dorsetshire Regiment]];
* Six companies from the 13th and 14th Battalions, Sudanese Infantry, commanded by Major Bayly, [[Royal Welsh Fusiliers]] and Major Darwell, [[Royal Marine Light Infantry]];
* Two companies from the Arab Battalion, commanded by Major Cowan, [[Queen's Own Cameron Highlanders|Cameron Highlanders]];
* Two companies from the 14th Battalion, Egyptian Infantry;
* Two [[Ordnance BL 12-pounder 6 cwt|12-pounder]] artillery batteries, which also included two [[Maxim machine gun]]s, commanded by Major Spinks [[Royal Artillery]]; and
* One Maxim machine gun battery.<ref name=falls/><ref name=gazette10370/>

With medical and other non combat units, the force totalled around 2,000 men. Intelligence gathered supported the theory that Dinar was going to invade Sudan, so in March 1916 Wingate ordered Kelly to cross the border and occupy Jebel el Hella and [[Um Shanga]]. The two villages offered the only permanent water supplies that were on the road to [[El Fasher]], Dinar's capital.<ref name=falls/><ref name=gazette10367/><ref name=gazette10370>{{London Gazette|date=24 October 1916|accessdate=8 September 2013|issue=29800|sup=y|startpage=10370|url=http://www.london-gazette.co.uk/issues/29800/supplements/10370}}</ref>

On 16 March, five companies from the Camel Corps and mounted infantry scouts, supported by a 12-pounder artillery battery and a Maxim machine gun battery, crossed the Darfur frontier and four days later occupied Um Shanga. Their only opposition was from a small observation post which was forced to withdraw. Unexpectedly, upon arrival the Anglo-Egyptian force found the water supply at Um Shanga scarce. With the main body of his force expected to arrive that evening, having only two days supply of water with them, Kelly considered withdrawing back to Sudan. Instead, he divided his force, forming a fast moving column, consisting of thirty mounted infantry scouts, 240 men from the Camel Corps, two artillery pieces and eight Maxims, which left for Jebel el Hella at dawn on 22 March.<ref name=falls/><ref name=gazette10367/>

===Jebel el Hella===
Kelly's flying column faced only slight opposition from Fur scouts until they reached a position {{convert|4|mi}} from Jebel el Hella. There a force of 800 Fur horsemen tried to surround them, and were only prevented from doing so by Anglo-Egyptian machine gun fire. Advancing a further {{convert|2|mi}} the flying column located a large concentration of Fur troops in a wooded valley, which they engaged with artillery and machine guns. Having forced the Fur troops to disperse, the column reached Jebel el Hella at 14:15, and secured its wells without any further opposition. A small reconnaissance party was dispatched by Kelly to check on the wells at [[Lugud]] {{convert|2|mi}} away, which were occupied in strength, when the remainder of Kelly's force arrived on 26 March. During their advance, the Anglo-Egyptian casualties were described as "insignificant" while the Fur forces had lost twenty men dead and wounded. With the occupation of Jebel el Hella complete, the Anglo-Egyptians had secured one of the invasion routes into Sudan.<ref name=falls/><ref name=gazette10367/>

The main Fur Army was now located in their capital of El Fasher and was estimated to consist of between 4,000 and 6,000 riflemen with adequate supplies of ammunition.<ref name=gazette10368/> Their equipment ranged from older [[muzzleloader]] weapons, such as [[Martini-Henry]] and [[Remington rifles|Remington]] rifles and [[shotgun]]s, to spears, shields and [[chain mail]].<ref name=d107/> They were supported by an unknown number of auxiliary troops armed only with spears. At the same time Dinar was concentrating his troops from other regions in the capital. Those in contact with the Anglo-Egyptian forces and some small number of reinforcements, were instead grouped at [[Burush]] and [[Kedada]].<ref name=falls/><ref name=gazette10368>{{London Gazette|accessdate=8 September 2013|date=24 October 1916|issue=29800|sup=y|startpage=10368|url==http://www.london-gazette.co.uk/issues/29800/supplements/10368}}</ref>

[[File:Anglo-Egyptian Sudan camel soldier of the British army.jpg|thumb|alt=Sitting camel, with soldier behind. Holding a rifle at the slope and wearing a fez. Buildings in the background|An Anglo-Egyptian camel soldier.]]

===Supply problems===
Wingate believed that Dinar would avoid a large battle in the provinces, but would instead gather his troops at El Fasher, until the rainy period started, which would benefit their style of [[guerrilla]] fighting and raids on the Anglo-Egyptian column and their [[lines of communication]]. However, Kelly's immediate concern was providing water and other supplies to his troops. The Anglo-Egyptian expedition coincided with a period of no rainfall and once all the native food supplies had been used, their nearest supply point was the railhead at [[Al-Ubayyid|El Obeid]] {{convert|300|mi}} to the west. To overcome some of their supply problems Wingate started construction of a road suitable for trucks, which he had obtained to supplement his camel transport. The road would stretch from the rail line at [[Rahad]] to [[Taweisha]] then on to the capital of El Fasher, about {{convert|460|mi}}. Once completed, a journey on the road by vehicles, from the rail line to the capital, would take four days. General Sir [[Archibald Murray]], the commander of the [[Egyptian Expeditionary Force]] fighting in the [[Sinai and Palestine Campaign]], arranged for the [[Royal Flying Corps]] (RFC) to send a flight of four aeroplanes, [[Ordnance BLC 15-pounder|15-pounder guns]] and ammunition, wireless communication sets and light transport vehicles, to assist the expedition.<ref name=falls/><ref name=gazette10368/>

===April reconnaissance===
In early April, Anglo-Egyptian reconnaissance patrols located small numbers of Fur troops at [[Burush]], [[Um Eisheishat]] and Um Kedda. To their south the Fur troops deployed at Taweisha were withdrawn to Tulu. Kelly ordered a large reconnaissance force to head west to [[Abiad]]. They had three objectives: locate any water supplies, for their men and animals; disperse any Fur troops at Burush and Um Kedada; and deny the Fur forces access to the water wells at Abiad and at the same time secure the route between Nahud and El Fasher.<ref name=gazette10368/> On 3 April, the Anglo-Egyptian force, consisting of two mounted infantry companies, four artillery pieces, six Maxim machine guns and the 13th Sudanese Battalion companies, reached Burush by midday forcing out a Fur cavalry unit. The next day they continued their advance towards Um Kedada. This time they met a Fur force of 700 men, some [[trench|entrenched]] in front of the wells, but the Anglo-Egyptian guns opened fire on them forcing them to withdraw. Four days later, on 8 April, the Anglo-Egyptian reconnaissance continued, reaching Abiad early the next day only to find that the Fur troops had left the previous evening. Leaving four Sudanese infantry companies and four guns behind the remaining Anglo-Egyptian reconnaissance force continued deeper into Darfur. The garrison left
behind at Abiad was attacked on 14 and 15 April, but casualties are not recorded. By the end of the month the lines of communication road was secured, with large detachments of Anglo-Egyptian troops left at Abiad, Um Kedada, Burush, Lugud, Jebel el Hella and Um Shanga. At the same time a system of observation posts was established along the frontier from [[Gabr el Dar]] to [[Shebb]] manned by 260 friendly natives, who were issued with Remington rifles. Another 200 men belonging to the [[Kababish tribe]] occupied [[Jebel Meidob]], observing the road from Darfur to the Senussi lands in the north.<ref name=gazette10368/>

===May advance to contact===
In May, the Anglo-Egyptian forces started reinforcing their lines of communication and bringing forward supplies to enable them to continue the advance.<ref name=gazette10368/> The Fur Army did not leave them alone and on 5 May a force of 500 men attacked the Anglo-Egyptian garrison at Abiad and four days later the [[telegraph]] post {{convert|3|mi}} east of Abiad was also attacked. On 12 May, an RFC reconnaissance aircraft flew over El Fasher dropping leaflets to the population.<ref name=falls/><ref name=gazette10369>{{London Gazette|date=24 October 1916|accessdate=8 September 2013|issue=29800|sup=y|startpage=10369|url=http://www.london-gazette.co.uk/issues/29800/supplements/10369}}</ref> The leaflets denounced Dinar and promised that once he was removed there would be religious freedom and justice for all, and that the tribal leaders would remain in position, if they submitted and there would be an end to repression.<ref>Daly, p.112</ref>

By 14 May Kelly had completed his preparations to advance to El Fasher and had gathered a force at Abiad consisting of sixty mounted infantry scouts, four companies from the Camel Corps with two Maxim machine guns of their own, eight companies from the 13th and 14th Sudanese Infantry and the Arab Battalion. They were supported by eight artillery pieces, fourteen Maxim machine guns and a [[field hospital]]. Still suffering from a shortage of water Kelly divided the force into two columns. "A" Column would be slow moving, while "B" Column would be more mobile. They would reunite at a rendezvous point {{convert|40|mi}} west of Abiad and {{convert|28|mi}} from the village of [[Meliet]], which had a well known supply of water. Reconnaissance patrols had located a small Fur garrison at Meliet and Kelly made that his first objective. Once Meliet had been captured the Anglo-Egyptians would be well positioned to attack the capital, El Fasher.<ref name=falls/><ref name=gazette10369/>

Just after 04:00 on 15 May a small unit of mounted infantry scouts, captured a Fur observation post {{convert|2|mi}} from Abiad, taking prisoner all bar two of the Fur soldiers who managed to escape on foot. The slow moving "A" Column left Abiad on 15 May followed by the "B" Column the next day. Both columns reached the rendezvous on 17 May. The same morning an RFC reconnaissance aircraft bombed a force of around 500 Fur troops at Meliat. The next day both of Kelly's columns reached the village, which had been evacuated by the Fur troops, leaving some of their supplies behind. On 19 May, RFC reconnaissance aircraft reported there was no trace of any Fur troops within {{convert|15|mi}}. However, the Anglo-Egyptian force was exhausted from their cross country march and remained resting at Meliat.<ref name=falls/><ref name=gazette10369/>

===Battle of Beringia===
[[File:Maxim machine gun Megapixie.jpg|thumb|alt=Brass barrelled gun with black coloured rear parts. On a tripod on a wooden plinth with a wood wall behind.|British tripod mounted Maxim machine gun]]

At 05:30 on 22 May, the Anglo-Egyptian advance continued, but the nature of the country, which consisted mainly of rolling low level sand-hills, with plenty of concealed ground and scattered bushes, reduced visibility down to just a few hundred yards. From the start, large groups of Fur camaliers and cavalry were observed. So instead of sending out his scouts Kelly formed an advance guard of the mounted infantry, a camel company and four Maxim machine guns. At 10:30, the Fur troops were observed in a strong entrenched position around the village of [[Beringia]].<ref name=falls/><ref name=gazette10369/>

The Fur Army commander, Ramadan Ali, had established a {{convert|2,000|yd}} crescent shaped trench, mostly concealed from the advancing Anglo-Egyptians by a [[wadi]]. Ali's plan was for them advance close enough for him to ambush them with his trench system, believing that his larger force would overrun their artillery and machine guns before they could cause any serious damage to his troops.<ref name=mac213>McGregor, p.213</ref>

The Anglo-Egyptian artillery opened fire on the Fur trenches, driving the Fur troops back. To the Anglo-Egyptian left Fur horsemen were seen gathering and they were also engaged by the artillery at a range of {{convert|1,600|yd}}. The Anglo-Egyptians [[Infantry square|formed a square]] and advanced {{convert|800|yd}}, then started digging trenches of their own. At the same time, the advance guard were ordered to man a higher position to the right front and south-west of the square. To counter a threat from Fur cavalry from his left, Kelly sent a Camel Corps company and a Maxim machine gun section to secure the higher ground there.<ref name=falls/><ref name=gazette10369/>

The Anglo-Egyptian forces were established {{convert|500|yd}} from Beringia. The main Fur army position was {{convert|600|yd}} south of the village, extending for {{convert|1,000|yd}} to the east and west in a semi circle. Kelly's scouts could not get into a position to see all of the Fur Army positions so Kelly made the decision to launch an immediate attack. While he was organising the assault, Huddleston commanding the Camel Corps company escorting the artillery and machine guns on the right of the square, exceeded his orders and entered the village.<ref name=falls/><ref name=gazette10369/><ref name=mac213/> Exiting to the south they came under heavy fire from the Fur defenders and were forced to withdraw, pursued by some of the Fur troops. However, when they came within range of the Anglo-Egyptian square, their artillery and machine guns opened fire on their open flank. Seeing this, the remainder of the Fur Army left their trenches and attacked the southern side of the square in strength. The south of the square was manned from left to right by an artillery battery, three infantry companies, another artillery battery, one infantry company and a Maxim section. There was then a gap of around {{convert|150|yd}} before another infantry company and a Maxim section were positioned facing east. Kelly now reinforced the south of the square with two Maxim sections and a company from the Arab Battalion. The Fur attack lasted around forty minutes, but it eventually failed and the nearest they got to the square was around {{convert|10|yd}}.{{#tag:ref|MacGregor claims there attack had got within {{convert|6|yd}}.<ref name=mac213/>|group=nb}}<ref name=falls/><ref name=gazette10369/> Kelly ordered an infantry counter-attack, supported by his artillery, with the Maxim guns advancing alongside the infantry. The Fur Army broke and the survivors retreated, leaving 231 dead,{{#tag:ref|Daly gives the number of dead as 261.<ref name="Daly">Daly, p.113</ref>|group=nb}} ninety-six seriously wounded and another 1,000 less seriously wounded behind, from a force of over 3,600. Anglo-Egyptian casualties were four officers wounded, five [[Other ranks (UK)|other ranks]] dead and eighteen wounded. At 16:00, Kelly resumed his advance to El Fasher stopping for the night just short of the capital.<ref name=falls/><ref name="gazette10370" />

The Fur Army were not defeated and a force of 500 cavalry and 300 infantry attacked the Anglo-Egyptian camp at 03:00 23 May. Kelly's artillery opened fire with [[starshell]]s, lighting up the battleground. The attack was defeated, Fur casualties are not known, but the only Anglo Egyptian casualty was a wounded [[Gunner (rank)|gunner]]. Later that day, at 06:00 the Anglo-Egyptians were just about to break camp, when several hundred Fur troops appeared on their left flank. They were engaged and forced to withdraw by artillery, machine gun fire and aerial bombardment. At 10:00, Kelly and his mounted troops entered the capital, finding it deserted except for some women. Sultan Ali Dinar had left El Fasher accompanied by 2,000 troops after hearing about the defeat at Beringia. Captured in the city were four artillery pieces, 55,000 rounds of small arms ammunition and 4,000 rifles.<ref name=falls/><ref name="gazette10370"/>

===Dibbis and Kulme===
Sultan Ali Dinar, fled to the Jebel Marra mountains {{convert|50|mi}} to the south-west of El Fasher, with around 2,000 men,{{#tag:ref|Daly claims he fled accompanied only by a "small retinue".<ref name="Daly" />|group=nb}} Kelly's troops were unable to immediately pursue him, due to a lack of supplies and exhaustion. However, Dinar approached the Anglo Egyptians offering to discuss surrender terms. Discussions continued until 1 August, when Kelly broke off the talks, as it had become apparent that Dinar was just stalling for time. Dinar's followers had started to desert him and at that point he was only left with around 1,000 men. Kelly's troops had at that stage occupied [[Kebkebia]] {{convert|80|mi}} west of El Fasher. Huddleston, with his own Camel Corps troops and men from the 13th Sudanese Infantry, two artillery pieces and four Maxim machine guns – 200 men in total – were sent to occupy [[Dibbis]] {{convert|110|mi}} south-west of El Fasher. They reached Dibbis on 13 October, engaging a Fur force of 150 riflemen and 1,000 men armed with spears, defeating them after a short fight. Following this, Dinar once again approached the Anglo Egyptians to discuss terms. When once again it appeared Dinar was only stalling, Kelly dispatched 100 men from the 13th Sudanese Infantry to reinforce Huddleston.<ref name=falls/>

[[File:Ali Dinar.jpg|thumb|The body of [[Ali Dinar]], November 1916.]]

Huddleston had discovered Dinar was in hiding at [[Kulme]] {{convert|50|mi}} to the west. The remaining Fur troops were in a poor condition, hungry and diseased and little resistance was expected to Huddleston's troops. Without waiting for reinforcements Huddleston marched on Kulme. Occupying the village almost unopposed on 3 November, they captured several hundred prisoners and most of Dinar's remaining military stores. Some of his immediate family also surrendered at the same time.<ref name=falls/>

Dinar, avoiding battle, fled to [[Jebel Juba]] to the south-west of Kulme. Two days later, on 5 November, Huddleston with 150 men, an artillery piece and four Maxim machine guns, mounted on captured horses, set off in pursuit. Huddleston reached Dinar's camp on 6 November and opened fire at a range of {{convert|500|yd}}. The Fur troops fled, followed by Huddleston's force, around {{convert|1|mi}} from the Fur camp. Huddleston's troops discovered the body of Dinar shot through the head.<ref name=falls/>

==Aftermath==
{{further|War in Darfur}}

After the expedition, the independent country of Darfur, and its inhabitants, became part of Sudan.<ref name=falls/> The £500,000 bill for the cost of the expedition was sent to the Egyptian Government in Cairo for payment by the Egyptian taxpayers.<ref>MacGregor, p.215</ref> The British commanders of the operation were also recognised. In 1917, Wingate became the [[List of diplomats of the United Kingdom to Egypt#High Commissioners|British High Commissioner for Egypt]].<ref>{{cite web|accessdate=10 September 2013|publisher=British Embassy Cairo|title=Previous Ambassadors|date=2 January 2013|url=http://webarchive.nationalarchives.gov.uk/20130217073211/http://ukinegypt.fco.gov.uk/en/about-us/our-embassy/our-ambassador/previous-ambassadors}}</ref> The commander of the Anglo-Egyptian expedition, Kelly, became the first Governor of the Darfur province with his office located in the Sultan's palace throne room until May 1917.<ref>Daly, p.118</ref> He was then promoted to [[brigadier general]] and given command of the [[5th Mounted Brigade]], which was part of the [[Australian Mounted Division]] fighting in Palestine.<ref>{{cite web|accessdate=10 September 2013|publisher=National Archives|title=Papers of Brigadier General Philip Kelly|url=http://www.nationalarchives.gov.uk/nra/searches/subjectView.asp?ID=P43219}}</ref><ref>Preston, p.333</ref>

==See also==
{{portal|World War I}}
* [[Darfur Conflict]], the rebellion of Darfur against the Sudanese government (2003–present)

==References==
;Footnotes
{{reflist|group=nb}}

;Citations
{{Research help|Mil}}
{{reflist|2}}

;Sources
{{refbegin}}
* {{cite book|last=Daly|first=Martin William|title=Darfur's Sorrow: The Forgotten History of a Humanitarian Disaster|publisher=Cambridge University Press|location=Cambridge, England|year=2010|isbn=1139788493|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=LLGqKAZpUHkC&pg=PA113&redir_esc=y#v=onepage&q&f=false}}
* {{cite book|last=MacGregor|first=Andrew James|title=A Military History of Modern Egypt: From the Ottoman Conquest to the Ramadan War|series=Praeger Security International|publisher=Greenwood Publishing Group|location=Westport, Connecticut|year=2006|isbn=0275986012|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=WrbCziCWJPEC&dq=darfur+expedition+1916&source=gbs_navlinks_s}}
* {{cite book|last1=MacMunn|first1=Sir George Fletcher|last2=Falls|first2=Cyril|title=Military Operations, Egypt & Palestine: From the Outbreak of War with Germany to June 1917|series=Official History of the Great War Based on Official Documents by Direction of the Historical Section of the Committee of Imperial Defence|volume=Volume 1|publisher=[[HMSO|H.M. Stationery Office]]|year=1928|location=London|oclc= 817051831}}
* {{cite book|last=Preston|first=Richard Martin|title=The Desert Mounted Corps: An Account of the Cavalry Operations in Palestine and Syria, 1917–1918|publisher=Constable and Company|location=London|year=1921|isbn=9781146758833}}
{{refend}}

==Further reading==
{{refbegin}}
*{{cite journal|last=Slight|first=John|date=2010|title=British Perceptions and Responses to Sultan Ali Dinar of Darfur, 1915–16|journal=The Journal of Imperial and Commonwealth History|volume=38|issue=2|pages=237–260|issn=0308-6534}}
{{refend}}

==External links==
* [http://www.kaiserscross.com/188001/224322.html The Soldier's Burden: Darfur 1916]

{{World War I}}

[[Category:Conflicts in 1916]]
[[Category:1916 in Sudan]]
[[Category:Battles of World War I involving the United Kingdom]]
[[Category:Military history of Sudan]]
[[Category:British colonisation in Africa]]
[[Category:Egypt in World War I]]

Akatalasie

2016-02-03T06:08:04Z

Hazard-Bot: Bot: Adding {{Research help|Med}}; please leave feedback/comments at Wikipedia talk:Research help #ResHelp

{{Infobox disease |
Name = Acatalasia |
Image = Peroxisome.jpg |
Caption = Basic structure of a [[peroxisome]] |
DiseasesDB = 30598 |
ICD10 = {{ICD10|E|80|3|e|70}} |
ICD9 = {{ICD9|277.89}} |
ICDO = |
OMIM = 115500 |
MedlinePlus = |
eMedicineSubj = |
eMedicineTopic = |
MeshID = D020642 |
}}
'''Acatalasia''' (also called '''acatalasemia''', or '''Takahara's disease'''<ref name="Andrews">{{cite book |author=James, William D.; Berger, Timothy G. |title=Andrews' Diseases of the Skin: Clinical Dermatology |publisher=Saunders Elsevier |location= |year=2006 |pages= |isbn=0-7216-2921-0 |oclc= |doi= |accessdate=|display-authors=etal}}</ref>{{rp|809}}) is an [[autosomal recessive]] [[peroxisomal disorder]] caused by a complete lack of [[catalase]].

==Presentation==
The disorder is relatively benign, although it causes an increased incidence of [[periodontal]] infections, and can under rare circumstances lead to [[gangrene]].<ref>{{cite journal|last=Takahara|first=Shigeo|author2=Hamilton, H. B.|author3=Neel, J. V.|author4=Kobara, T. Y.|author5=Ogura, Y.|author6=Nishimura, E. T.|title=Hypocatalasemia: a new genetic carrier state|journal=Journal of Clinical Investigation|year=1960|volume=39|issue=4|doi=10.1172/JCI104075|url=http://www.jci.org/articles/view/104075}}</ref>

== Genetic Basis ==
Occurrence of acatalasia is often the result of mutation in the CAT gene which codes for the enzyme [[catalase]].<ref name=":0">{{Cite web|title = Acatalasemia|url = http://ghr.nlm.nih.gov/condition/acatalasemia|website = Genetics Home Reference|accessdate = 2015-09-28}}</ref>

== Occurrence ==
Researchers estimate that the condition occurs in every 12,500th person in Japan, every 20,000th in Hungary, and every 20,000th person in Switzerland.<ref name=":0" />

==History==
In 1948, Dr. [[Shigeo Takahara]] (1908–1994), a [[Japanese people|Japanese]] [[Otolaryngology|otolaryngologist]] first reported this new disease.<ref>Takahara, S.; Miyamoto, H. Three cases of progressive oral gangrene due to lack of catalase in the blood. Nippon Jibi-Inkoka Gakkai Kaiho 51: 163 only, 1948.</ref> He had examined a patient with an [[oral ulcer]]. He had spread [[hydrogen peroxide]] on the diseased part, but [[oxygen]] was not generated due to the lack of catalase.

==See also==
* [[List of cutaneous conditions]]

==References==
{{Research help|Med}}
{{reflist}}

{{Peroxisomal disorders}}

[[Category:Peroxisomal disorders]]
[[Category:Autosomal recessive disorders]]
[[Category:Conditions of the mucous membranes]]

{{genetic-disorder-stub}}

Blackstar (Album)

2016-01-04T10:42:40Z

Hazard-Bot: Bot: Replacing {{start date}} with the actual date (it should only be used once in a template that emits microformats; see Template:Start date/doc)

{{use dmy dates|date=October 2015}}
{{Infobox album 
| Name = Blackstar
| Type = studio
| Artist = [[David Bowie]]
| Cover = Blackstar album cover.jpg
| Border =
| Released = 8 January 2016
| Recorded = 2014–15
| Studio = {{unbulleted list|The Magic Shop|{{small|([[New York City|New York]], [[New York]])}}<ref name="rs20151123" />}}|{{unbulleted list|Electric Lady Studios|{{small|([[New York City|New York]], [[New York]])}}<ref name="rs20151123" />}}
| Genre = {{hlist|[[Art rock]]<ref name="Q review"/>|[[experimental jazz]]<ref name="Q review"/>}}
| Length = 40:49
| Label = {{hlist|ISO|[[RCA Records|RCA]] {{small|(UK)}}|[[Columbia Records|Columbia]] {{small|(US)}}}}
| Producer = {{hlist|David Bowie|[[Tony Visconti]]}}
| Last album = ''[[Five Years (1969–1973)]]'' (2015)
| This album = '''''Blackstar''''' (2016)
| Next album =
{{Extra album cover
| Upper caption = Vinyl cover
| Type = studio
| Cover = Bowie-Blackstar-vinylcover.jpg
}}
| Misc = {{Singles
| Name = Blackstar
| Type = Studio album
| Single 1 = [[Blackstar (David Bowie song)|Blackstar]]
| Single 1 date = 20 November 2015
| Single 2 = [[Lazarus (David Bowie song)|Lazarus]]
| Single 2 date = 17 December 2015
}}
}}

'''''Blackstar''''' (stylised as '''★''') is the upcoming twenty-fifth studio album by [[David Bowie]]. It is scheduled to be released on 8 January 2016, the date of Bowie's 69th birthday,<ref name="BBC">{{Cite web|url=http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/entertainment-arts-34638413 |title=David Bowie announces new album Blackstar for January release |accessdate=26 October 2015 |publisher=BBC News}}</ref><ref name="Guardian">{{Cite web|url=http://www.theguardian.com/music/2015/oct/26/david-bowie-25th-album-released-january-2016 |title=David Bowie confirms 25th album will be released in January 2016 |accessdate=26 October 2015 |work=The Guardian}}</ref><ref name=Blackstar>{{cite web|url=http://www.davidbowie.com/news/watch-video-teaser-online-now-55121|title=Watch ★ video teaser online now|publisher=www.davidbowie.com|archiveurl=https://web.archive.org/web/20151113154049/http://www.davidbowie.com/news/watch-video-teaser-online-now-55121|archivedate=13 November 2015|deadurl=no|accessdate=13 November 2015}}</ref> and will feature seven songs.<ref name="pitchfork">{{Cite web|url=http://pitchfork.com/news/61774-david-bowie-confirms-new-album-blackstar-coming-in-january/ |title=David Bowie Confirms New Album Blackstar Coming in January |accessdate=26 October 2015 |work=Pitchfork}}</ref><ref name="NME">{{Cite web|url=http://www.nme.com/news/david-bowie/89248 |title=Details of David Bowie's 25th album 'Blackstar' revealed |accessdate=26 October 2015 |work=NME}}</ref> The title track was released as a single on 20 November 2015<ref name="single">{{Cite web|url=http://www.rollingstone.com/music/news/david-bowie-confirms-new-album-blackstar-out-january-20151025 |title=David Bowie Confirms New Album 'Blackstar' |accessdate=26 October 2015 |work=Rolling Stone}}</ref> and was used as the opening music for the television series ''[[The Last Panthers]]''.<ref name="Panthers">{{Cite web|url=http://www.nme.com/blogs/nme-blogs/david-bowie-7-things-we-already-know-about-his-2016-album-blackstar |title=David Bowie: 7 Things We Already Know About His 2016 Album 'Blackstar' |accessdate=26 October 2015 |work=NME}}</ref> "Lazarus" was released on 17 December 2015 as a [[Music download|digital download]] and received its world premiere on [[BBC Radio 6 Music]]’s [[Steve Lamacq]] the same day.<ref>{{cite web|title=David Bowie launches trailer of new single Lazarus|url=http://www.theguardian.com/music/2015/dec/14/david-bowie-new-single-lazarus-black-star?CMP=twt_a-music_b-gdnmusic|website=[[The Guardian]]|accessdate=18 December 2015|date=14 December 2015}}</ref>

==Critical reception==
{{Album ratings
| MC = 83/100<ref name="MC">{{cite web | url=http://www.metacritic.com/music/blackstar/david-bowie | title=Reviews for Blackstar by David Bowie | publisher=[[Metacritic]] | accessdate=27 December 2015}}</ref>
| rev1 = ''[[The Independent]]''
| rev1score = {{Rating|4|5}}<ref name="independent-review">{{cite web | url=http://www.independent.co.uk/arts-entertainment/music/reviews/david-bowies-blackstar-exclusive-first-review-a-bowie-desperate-to-break-with-the-past-a6783456.html | title=David Bowie's Blackstar - exclusive first review: A Bowie desperate to break with the past | work=[[The Independent]] | date=22 December 2015 | accessdate=28 December 2015 | author=Gill, Andy}}</ref>
| rev2 = ''[[Mojo (magazine)|Mojo]]''
| rev2Score = {{Rating|4|5}}<ref name="Mojo review">{{cite journal | title=David Bowie – Blackstar| author=Cameron, Keith | journal=[[Mojo (magazine)|Mojo]] | date=January 2016}}</ref>
| rev3 = ''[[NME]]''
| rev3score = {{Rating|4|5}}<ref name="NMEReview">{{cite web | url=http://www.nme.com/reviews/david-bowie/16363 | title=David Bowie - 'Blackstar' Review: The NME Verdict | work=[[NME]] author=Richards, Sam}}</ref>
| rev4 = ''[[Q (magazine)|Q]]''
| rev4Score = {{Rating|4|5}}<ref name="Q review">{{cite journal | title=David Bowie – ★ | author=Doyle, Tom | journal=[[Q (magazine)|Q]] | date=January 2016}}</ref>
| rev5 = ''[[Rolling Stone]]''
| rev5score = {{Rating|4|5}}<ref name="rollingstone">{{cite web | url=http://www.rollingstone.com/music/albumreviews/david-bowie-blackstar-20151223 | title=Blackstar | work=[[Rolling Stone]] | date=23 December 2015 | accessdate=28 December 2015 | author=Fricke, David}}</ref>
}}

''Blackstar'' has received very positive reviews from music critics. At [[Metacritic]], which assigns a normalized rating out of 100 to reviews from critics, the album received an average score of 83, which indicates "universal acclaim", based on 6 reviews.<ref name="MC"/> ''[[Rolling Stone]]'' critic David Fricke described the album as "a ricochet of textural eccentricity and pictorial-shrapnel writing."<ref name="rollingstone"/> Andy Gill of ''[[The Independent]]'' regarded the record as "the most extreme album of his [Bowie's] entire career," stating: ''Blackstar'' is as far as he's strayed from [[Pop music|pop]]."<ref name="independent-review"/> Reviewing for ''[[Q (magazine)|Q]]'' magazine, Tom Doyle wrote: "''Blackstar'' is a more concise statement than ''[[The Next Day]]'' and a a far, far more intriguing one."<ref name="Q review"/>

==Track listing==
{{track listing
| headline = ''Blackstar'' — {{nobold|[[Compact disc|CD]] – [[Gramophone record|vinyl]] – [[Music download|digital download]]<ref name="iTunes US"/>}}
| title1 = [[Blackstar (David Bowie song)|Blackstar]]
| length1 = 9:56
| title2 = 'Tis a Pity She Was a Whore
| length2 = 4:45
| title3 = [[Lazarus (David Bowie song)|Lazarus]]
| length3 = 6:23
| title4 = [[Sue (Or in a Season of Crime)]]
| length4 = 4:35
| title5 = Girl Loves Me
| length5 = 4:53
| title6 = Dollar Days
| length6 = 4:36
| title7 = I Can't Give Everything Away
| length7 = 5:41
|total_length = 40:49
}}
{{tracklist
| collapsed = no
| headline = Digital download bonus track
| total_length =
| title8 = Blackstar
| note8 = video
| length8 = 9:59
}}

==Personnel==
Personnel adapted from ''Blackstar'' liner notes.<ref>{{cite AV media notes|title=Blackstar|others=[[David Bowie]]|year=2016|type=album liner notes|publisher=ISO Records}}</ref>

{{Div col||30em}}
* [[David Bowie]] – vocals, acoustic guitar, mixing, production, string arrangements
* Tim Lefebvre – bass
* [[Mark Guiliana]] – drums, percussion
* [[Kevin Killen]] – engineering
* Erin Tonkon – assistant engineer
* Joe Visciano – mixing assistant
* Kabir Hermon – assistant engineer
* [[Donny McCaslin]] – flute, saxophone, woodwinds
* [[Ben Monder]] – guitar
* [[Jason Lindner]] – piano, organ, keyboards
* [[Joe LaPorta]] – mastering engineer
* [[Tom Elmhirst]] – mixing engineer
* [[Tony Visconti]] – production, strings, engineering, mixing engineer
* [[James Murphy (electronic musician)|James Murphy]] – percussion on two tracks<ref name="rs20151123">{{cite web|last1=Greene|first1=Andy|title=The Inside Story of David Bowie's Stunning New Album, 'Blackstar'|url=http://www.rollingstone.com/music/features/the-inside-story-of-david-bowies-stunning-new-album-blackstar-20151123|website=[[Rolling Stone]]|accessdate=24 November 2015|date=23 November 2015}}</ref>
{{Div col end}}

==Release history==
{| class="wikitable plainrowheaders"
|-
! scope="col"| Region
! scope="col"| Date
! scope="col"| Format(s)
! scope="col"| Label
! scope="col"| Ref.
|-
! scope="row" | United Kingdom
| rowspan="2" | 8 January 2016
| rowspan="2" | {{hlist|[[Compact disc|CD]]|[[Music download|digital download]]|[[Gramophone record|vinyl]]}}
| {{hlist|ISO|[[RCA Records|RCA]]}}
| <ref>{{cite web | url=http://www.amazon.co.uk/Blackstar-David-Bowie/dp/B017VORJK6/ | title=Blackstar by David Bowie | publisher=[[Amazon.com|Amazon.co.uk]] | accessdate=3 December 2015}}</ref><ref>{{cite web | url=https://itunes.apple.com/gb/album/blackstar/id1059043043 | title=Blackstar by David Bowie | publisher=[[iTunes|iTunes Great Britain]] | accessdate=3 December 2015}}</ref><ref>{{cite web | url=http://www.amazon.co.uk/Blackstar-VINYL-David-Bowie/dp/B017VORJLA/ | title=Blackstar [VINYL] by David Bowie | publisher=[[Amazon.com|Amazon.co.uk]] | accessdate=3 December 2015}}</ref>
|-
! scope="row" | United States
| {{hlist|ISO|[[Columbia Records|Columbia]]}}
|<ref>{{cite web | url=http://www.amazon.com/Blackstar-David-Bowie/dp/B017VORJK6/ | title=David Bowie - Blackstar | publisher=[[Amazon.com]] | accessdate=3 December 2015}}</ref><ref name="iTunes US">{{cite web | url=https://itunes.apple.com/us/album/blackstar/id1059043043 | title=Blackstar by David Bowie | publisher=[[iTunes]] | accessdate=21 November 2015}}</ref><ref>{{cite web | url=http://www.amazon.com/Blackstar-Vinyl-David-Bowie/dp/B017VORJLA/ | title=David Bowie - Blackstar (Vinyl) | publisher=[[Amazon.com]] | accessdate=3 December 2015}}</ref>
|}

==References==
{{reflist|30em}}

==External links==
* {{official website|http://davidbowie.com/blackstar/}}

{{David Bowie |state=collapsed}}

[[Category:2016 albums]]
[[Category:David Bowie albums]]
[[Category:Albums produced by Tony Visconti]]
[[Category:Upcoming albums]]

What a Terrible World, What a Beautiful World

2016-01-04T09:41:10Z

Hazard-Bot: Bot: Replacing {{start date}} with the actual date (it should only be used once in a template that emits microformats; see Template:Start date/doc)

{{Infobox album
| Name = What a Terrible World, What a Beautiful World
| Type = studio
| Artist = [[The Decemberists]]
| Cover = What_A_Terrible_World,_What_A_Beautiful_World.png
| Alt =
| Length = 52:57
| Genre = [[Indie rock]], [[folk rock]], [[indie folk]]
| Label = [[Capitol Records|Capitol]] (US), [[Rough Trade Records|Rough Trade]] (Europe)
| Producer = [[Tucker Martine]]
| Released = {{start date|2015|1|20|mf=yes}}
| Last album = ''[[The King Is Dead (album)|The King Is Dead]]'' (2011)
| This album = '''''What a Terrible World, What a Beautiful World''''' (2015)
| Misc = {{Singles
| Name = What a Terrible World, What a Beautiful World
| Type = studio
| single 1 = Make You Better
| single 1 date = November 2014
| single 2 = The Wrong Year
| single 2 date = April 6, 2015<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.allaccess.com/triple-a/future-releases |title=Future Releases on Triple A (AAA) Radio Stations|publisher=All Access Music Group |archiveurl=http://www.webcitation.org/6XMSb7qga|archivedate=March 28, 2015}}</ref>
}}
}}
'''''What a Terrible World, What a Beautiful World''''' is the seventh studio album from [[The Decemberists]], released on January 20, 2015. The album's title comes from a line in the song "12/17/12", a reference to the date of [[Barack Obama]]'s speech in response to the [[Sandy Hook Elementary School shooting]] and lead singer [[Colin Meloy]]'s conflicting feelings about the shooting and his happy personal life.

==Reception==
''What a Terrible World, What a Beautiful World'' received mostly positive reviews. It currently has a metascore of 77 and user score of 8.1 from [[Metacritic]].<ref name="MC" /> ''[[The Boston Globe]]'' described the album as one of the band's "most enjoyable and lively efforts in recent memory",<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.bostonglobe.com/arts/music/2015/01/20/review-the-decemberists-what-terrible-world-what-beautiful-world/XG375BIhlXPgUQ0IomTZoK/story.html|title=CD Review: The Decemberists, 'What a Beautiful World, What a Terrible World'|work=The Boston Globe}}</ref> ''[[The New York Times]]'' noted that ''What a Terrible World, What a Beautiful World'' "strikes a note of pop concision and maturity, building on what worked on ‘The King Is Dead.’ Lyrically, there are fewer thistles and minarets and palanquins — and, musically, less digressive excess — than once made up the Decemberists’ trademark style."<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.nytimes.com/2015/01/20/arts/music/new-releases-from-the-decemberists-hanni-el-khatib-and-duane-eubanks.html?_r=0|title=New Releases From the Decemberists, Hanni El Khatib and Duane Eubanks|work=The New York Times}}</ref> Jeremy Larson of [[Pitchfork Media]] was a detractor, bemoaning the album as "overlong and under-ambitious", though appreciating that listeners "start to see Meloy himself more than ever". Larson also wrote highly of "Make You Better", stating "The band has never lacked the musical bona fides to write a great anthem."<ref name="Pitchfork" />

{{Album ratings
|MC=77/100<ref name="MC">{{cite web | url=http://www.metacritic.com/music/what-a-terrible-world-what-a-beautiful-world/the-decemberists | title=Reviews for What A Terrible World, What A Beautiful World by The Decemberists - Metacritic | work=Metacritic | date=January 20, 2015 | accessdate=August 1, 2015}}</ref>
| rev1 = [[Allmusic]]
| rev1score = {{Rating|4|5}}<ref name=allmusicreview>{{cite web|last=Deming|first=Mark|url=http://www.allmusic.com/album/what-a-terrible-world-what-a-beautiful-world-mw0002785203|title= The Decemberists-What A Terrible World, What A Beautiful World|accessdate=January 24, 2015}}</ref>
| rev2 = [[The A.V. Club]]
| rev2score = (B)<ref name="The A.V. Club">{{cite web|last=Everhart|first=John|date=January 20, 2015|url=http://www.avclub.com/review/inside-decemberists-beguiling-world-213767|title=Inside The Decemberists' beguiling world|publisher=[[The A.V. Club]]|accessdate=January 27, 2015}}</ref>
| rev3 = ''[[Consequence of Sound]]''
| rev3Score = B-<ref name="Consequence of Sound">{{cite web|url=http://consequenceofsound.net/2015/01/album-review-the-decemberists-what-a-terrible-world-what-a-beautiful-world/ |work=[[Consequence of Sound]] |last=Flynn |first=Katherine |title=The Decemberists: What A Terrible World, What A Beautiful World|date=January 16, 2015 |accessdate=February 1, 2015}}</ref>
| rev4 = [[PopMatters]]
| rev4score = 8/10<ref name="PopMatters">{{cite web|last=Blum|first=Jordan|date=January 16, 2015|url=http://www.popmatters.com/review/189666-the-decemberists-what-a-terrible-world-what-a-beautiful-world/|title=The Decemberists: What A Terrible World, What A Beautiful World|publisher=[[PopMatters]]|accessdate=January 27, 2015}}</ref>
| rev5 =[[Pitchfork Media]]
|rev5Score=5.6/10<ref name="Pitchfork">{{cite web|last=Larson|first=Jeremy|date=January 19, 2015|url=http://pitchfork.com/reviews/albums/20083-what-a-terrible-world-what-a-beautiful-world/|title=The Decemberists: What A Terrible World, What A Beautiful World|publisher=[[Pitchfork Media]]|accessdate=January 22, 2015}}</ref>
| rev6 = ''[[Rolling Stone]]''
| rev6score = {{Rating|4|5}}<ref name="Rolling Stone">{{cite web|last=Hermes|first=Will|date=January 20, 2015|url=http://www.rollingstone.com/music/albumreviews/the-decemberists-what-a-terrible-world-what-a-beautiful-world-20150120|title=The Decemberists: What A Terrible World, What A Beautiful World|publisher=''[[Rolling Stone]]''|accessdate=January 27, 2015}}</ref>
| rev7 = [[Slant Magazine]]
| rev7score = {{Rating|3.5|5}}<ref name="Slant Magazine">{{cite web|last=Winograd|first=Jeremy|date=January 15, 2015|url=http://www.slantmagazine.com/music/review/the-decemberists-what-a-terrible-world-what-a-beautiful-world|title=The Decemberists: What A Terrible World, What A Beautiful World|publisher=[[Slant Magazine]]|accessdate=January 27, 2015}}</ref>
}}

==Track listing==
All songs written by [[Colin Meloy]].<ref>http://mexicoindie.net/2014/11/stream-the-decemberists-what-a-terrible-world-what-a-beautiful-world/</ref>
{{Track listing
|total_length = 52:57
|title1 = The Singer Addresses His Audience
|length1 = 4:42
|title2 = Cavalry Captain
|length2 = 3:17
|title3 = Philomena
|length3 = 3:04
|title4 = Make You Better
|length4 = 5:07
|title5 = Lake Song
|length5 = 5:52
|title6 = Till the Water's All Long Gone
|length6= 5:01
|title7 = The Wrong Year
|length7 = 3:53
|title8 = Carolina Low
|length8 = 3:24
|title9 = Better Not Wake the Baby
|length9 = 1:44
|title10 = Anti-Summersong
|length10 = 2:12
|title11 = Easy Come, Easy Go
|length11 = 2:22
|title12 = Mistral
|length12 = 3:54
|title13 = 12/17/12
|length13 = 3:03
|title14 = A Beginning Song
|length14 = 5:22
}}

==Personnel==

According to the [[liner notes]] of ''What a Terrible World, What a Beautiful World''.

===The Decemberists===

*[[Colin Meloy]] - [[singing|lead vocals]], [[acoustic guitar]], [[electric guitar]], [[bouzouki]], [[harmonica]], [[backing vocals]]
*[[Chris Funk]] - acoustic and electric guitars, [[banjo]], bouzouki, [[mandolin]]
*[[Jenny Conlee]] - [[piano]], [[Hammond organ]], [[vibraphone]], [[accordion]], [[electronic keyboard|keyboards]]
*[[Nate Query]] - [[bass guitar]], [[upright bass]]
*[[John Moen]] - [[drum kit|drums]], [[percussion]], backing vocals

===Additional musicians===

;Backup singers

*Rachel Flotard (tracks 1, 2, 3, 4, 7, 11, 12, 13, 14)
*[[Kelly Hogan]] (tracks 2, 3, 9, 10, 12)
*[[Laura Veirs]] (track 5)
*Ragen Fykes (tracks 6, 8)
*Moorea Masa (tracks 6, 8)
*"The Singer Addresses His Audience" Choir: Kyleen King, Laura Veirs, Allison Hall, Bridgit Jacobson, [[Carson Ellis]], Michael Finn, Jeremy Swatzky, Shelley Short, Steven Watkins, Ritchie Young, Moorea Masa
*the "Anti-Summersong" Narrator Support Gang: Chris Funk, Nate Query, John Moen, Jason Colton, [[Tucker Martine]]

;Strings and brass

*Rob Moose - [[violin]], [[fiddle]]
*Kyleen King - [[viola]]
*Patti King - violin
*Anna Fritz - [[cello]]
*Victor Nash - [[trumpet]]

===Production===

*Produced by [[Tucker Martine]] with The Decemberists
*[[String arrangements]] by Rob Moose
*Recorded and mixed by Tucker Martine
*Mastered by [[Stephen Marcussen]]
*Assistant engineering by Michael Finn
*Design by Jeri Heiden and Glen Nakasako for SMOG Design, Inc.
*Illustrations and lettering by [[Carson Ellis]]
*Photography by [[Autumn de Wilde]]

==Charts==
{| class="wikitable sortable plainrowheaders" style="text-align:center;"
|-
! scope="col"| Chart (2015)
! scope="col"| Peak position
|-
! scope="row"| Australian Albums ([[ARIA Charts|ARIA]])<ref>{{cite web|url=http://ariacharts.com.au/chart/albums/3229|title=ARIA Australian Top 50 Albums|publisher=[[Australian Recording Industry Association]]|accessdate=January 24, 2015}}</ref>
| align="center"| 27
|-
{{albumchart|Flanders|122|artist=The Decemberists|album=What a Terrible World, What a Beautiful World|accessdate=January 24, 2015|rowheader=true}}
|-
{{albumchart|Netherlands|27|artist=The Decemberists|album=What a Terrible World, What a Beautiful World|accessdate=January 24, 2015|rowheader=true}}
|-
{{albumchart|New Zealand|28|artist=The Decemberists|album=What a Terrible World, What a Beautiful World|accessdate=January 24, 2015|rowheader=true}}
|-
! scope="row"|Italian Albums ([[FIMI]])<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.fimi.it/main/chart_id/1958|title=Album - Classifica settimanale WK 4 (dal 19-01-2015 al 25-01-2015)|publisher=[[Federazione Industria Musicale Italiana]]|language=Italian|accessdate=29 January 2015}}</ref>
| align="center"| 90
|-
{{albumchart|Billboard200|7|artist=The Decemberists|album=What a Terrible World, What a Beautiful World|accessdate=February 5, 2015|rowheader=true}}
|-
|}

==References==
{{reflist|30em}}

{{Decemberists}}

[[Category:2015 albums]]
[[Category:English-language albums]]
[[Category:The Decemberists albums]]

Uncontrolled

2016-01-04T07:02:57Z

Hazard-Bot: Bot: Replacing {{start date}} with the actual date (it should only be used once in a template that emits microformats; see Template:Start date/doc)

{{Infobox album 
| Name = Uncontrolled
| Type = studio
| Artist = [[Namie Amuro]]
| Cover = Namieuncontrolled.jpg
| Alt = A blue-tinted close-up face shot of a woman, with long hair being windswept to her right. In the background is an extreme close-up of an annular solar eclipse.
| Caption = CD+DVD and Playbutton editions' cover
| Released = {{start date|2012|06|27}} (see [[#Release history|release history]])
| Recorded = 2010–2012 Prime Sound Studio Form ([[Meguro, Tokyo]]) Azabu O Studio ([[Nishi-Azabu, Minato, Tokyo]]) Avex Studio ([[Azabu]], [[Tokyo]]) Bunkamura Studio ([[Shibuya, Tokyo]]) [[Record Plant]] ([[Los Angeles]], [[California]]) Sound City ([[Azabudai, Minato, Tokyo]])
| Genre = [[Contemporary R&B|R&B]],<ref>{{cite web |url=http://artist.cdjournal.com/d/sit-stay-wait-downlove-story/4111100391 |title=<nowiki>Namie Amuro ／ Sit! Stay! Wait! Down! ／ Love Story [CD+DVD]</nowiki> |publisher=CDJournal |language=Japanese |accessdate=May 29, 2012}}</ref> [[Dance music|dance]],<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.musicnet.co.jp/search/newrelease.php?ReleaseNumber=AVCD-48138-B |title=NAKED／Fight Together／Tempest by 安室奈美恵 |author=Takashi Ōno |publisher=What's In? |language=Japanese |accessdate=May 29, 2012}}</ref> [[Synthpop|electro-pop]],<ref name="HotExpressReview">{{cite web |url=http://www.hotexpress.co.jp/review/3586/ |script-title=ja:安室奈美恵妥協なき20年→抑制されない音楽の破壊力 |trans_title=Namie Amuro: Uncompromising 20 Years → the power of Uncontrolled music |author=Tetsuo Hiraga |publisher=Hot Express |language=Japanese |date=June 2012 |accessdate=June 2, 2012}}</ref> [[euro disco]]<ref name="listenjpReview"/>
| Length = 50:17
| Label = [[Avex Trax]]
| Language = [[Japanese language|Japanese]], [[English language|English]]
| Producer = Takashi Kasuga, (exec.) Shinji Hayashi (exec.), Hisahiko Iida, Shintaro Higuchi, Daisuke Shimokawa
| Last album = ''[[Checkmate! (Namie Amuro album)|Checkmate!]]'' (2011)
| This album = '''''Uncontrolled''''' (2012)
| Next album = ''[[Feel (Namie Amuro album)|Feel]]'' (2013)
| Misc = {{singles
| Name = Uncontrolled
| Type = studio
| single 1 = [[Break It/Get Myself Back|Break It" / "Get Myself Back]]
| single 1 date = July 28, 2010
| single 2 = [[Naked / Fight Together / Tempest|Naked" / "Fight Together" / "Tempest]]
| single 2 date = July 27, 2011
| single 3 = [[Sit! Stay! Wait! Down! / Love Story|Sit! Stay! Wait! Down!" / "Love Story]]
| single 3 date = December 7, 2011
| single 4 = [[Go Round / Yeah-Oh!|Go Round" / "Yeah-Oh!]]
| single 4 date = March 21, 2012
}}}}

'''''Uncontrolled''''' is the 10th studio album by [[Japanese people|Japanese]] [[pop music|pop]] and [[contemporary R&B|R&B]] musician [[Namie Amuro]], released on June 27, 2012.<ref name="Neowing">{{cite web | url=http://www.neowing.co.jp/detailview.html?KEY=AVCD-38522 | title=<nowiki>[CD]Uncontrolled [CD+DVD/ジャケットA] / 安室奈美恵</nowiki> |work=Neowing | language=Japanese | accessdate=May 25, 2012}}</ref> The album was released before her 20th anniversary concerts — one in Okinawa in September, and seven across Japan in November and December 2012. The album consists mostly of songs sung in [[Japanese language|Japanese]], however this was the first album of Amuro's to feature several songs sung entirely in [[English language|English]].

The album spent three weeks at number one on [[Oricon]]'s albums chart, making ''Uncontrolled'' the second album of Amuro's to do this after ''[[Best Fiction]]'' (2008) spent six weeks at number one. The album was certified double platinum by the [[Recording Industry Association of Japan]]. This is her fifth consecutive number one album since 2007, and her sixth consecutive double platinum album since 2005.

== Background and development ==
''Uncontrolled'' is Amuro's first original studio album since 2009's ''[[Past Future|Past < Future]]'', and follows her collaboration compilation album ''[[Checkmate! (Namie Amuro album)|Checkmate!]]'', released in 2011. Unlike ''Past < Future'', which was released after only one physical single, ''Uncontrolled'' is a compilation of nine songs from singles released between 2010 and 2012, as well as four new songs. Amuro revealed later in an interview that an idea for the album was conceived in early 2012.<ref name="BillboardInterview">{{cite web | url=http://www.billboard-japan.com/special/detail/52 | title=安室奈美恵『Uncontrolled』インタビュー | trans_title=Namie Amuro Uncontrolled Interview |publisher=Billboard Japan |work=Kanako Hayagawa | language=Japanese | year=2012 | accessdate=July 4, 2012 |archiveurl=http://www.webcitation.org/68uD9rtMv |archivedate=July 4, 2012}}</ref> The album was created as a collection of songs that Amuro wanted to sing, in contrast to a concept or theme-based album.<ref>{{cite web | url=http://www.oricon.co.jp/music/interview/page/69/ | script-title=ja:安室奈美恵『強くてキュートでカッコいい女性＝歌手・安室奈美恵として表現したい！』 | trans_title=Namie Amuro: I want to express strong, cute and cool in my works as Namie Amuro! |publisher=Oricon |work=Kanako Hayagawa | language=Japanese | date=June 27, 2012 | accessdate=July 2, 2012}}</ref>

Of the nine tracks released as singles before the album, four were digitally successful enough to receive certifications from [[Recording Industry Association of Japan]] (RIAJ): "Fight Together," "Get Myself Back," "Love Story" and "Sit! Stay! Wait! Down!."<ref name="RIAJ-2012JAN"/> All of the songs were certified gold for full-length cellphone downloads, except for "Love Story," which was certified triple platinum for ringtones, and double platinum for full-length cellphone downloads.<ref name="RIAJ-2012JAN">{{cite web | script-title=ja:レコード協会調べ　12月度有料音楽配信認定＜略称：12月度認定＞ |trans_title=RIAJ Research: December Digital Certifications | url=http://www.riaj.or.jp/data/others/chart/w120120.html | work=[[RIAJ]] |language=Japanese | date=January 20, 2012 | accessdate=May 25, 2012}}</ref><ref name="RIAJ-2012JULY">{{cite web | script-title=ja:レコード協会調べ　7月度有料音楽配信認定＜略称：7月度認定＞ |trans_title=RIAJ Research: July Digital Certifications | url=http://www.riaj.or.jp/data/others/chart/w120820.html | work=[[RIAJ]] |language=Japanese | date=August 20, 2012 | accessdate=August 2012}}</ref><ref>{{cite web | script-title=ja:レコード協会調べ　4月度有料音楽配信認定＜略称：4月度認定＞ |trans_title=RIAJ Research: April Digital Certifications | url=http://www.riaj.or.jp/data/others/chart/w110520.html | work=[[RIAJ]] |language=Japanese | date=May 20, 2011 | accessdate=May 25, 2012}}</ref><ref>{{cite web | script-title=ja:レコード協会調べ　7月度有料音楽配信認定＜略称：7月度認定＞ |trans_title=RIAJ Research: July Digital Certifications | url=http://www.riaj.or.jp/data/others/chart/w110820.html | work=[[RIAJ]] |language=Japanese | date=August 20, 2011 | accessdate=May 25, 2012}}</ref><ref>{{cite web | script-title=ja:レコード協会調べ　1月度有料音楽配信認定＜略称：1月度認定＞ |trans_title=RIAJ Research: January Digital Certifications | url=http://www.riaj.or.jp/data/others/chart/w120220.html | work=[[RIAJ]] |language=Japanese | date=February 20, 2012 | accessdate=May 25, 2012}}</ref> It was Amuro's highest certified song in four years, since 2008's "[[60s 70s 80s|New Look]]."<ref>{{cite web | script-title=ja:レコード協会調べ　10月度有料音楽配信認定＜略称：10月度認定＞ |trans_title=RIAJ Research: October Digital Certifications | url=http://www.riaj.or.jp/data/others/chart/w081120_3.html | work=[[RIAJ]] |language=Japanese | date=November 20, 2008 | accessdate=May 25, 2012}}</ref>

Most of the songs were recorded in [[Tokyo]], at Prime Sound Studio Form, with additional recording at Azabu O Studio, Avex Studio and Bunkamura Studio. The exception is "Let's Go," which was recorded at [[Record Plant]] in [[Los Angeles]].<ref name="booklet"/> Amuro had previously recorded at Record Plant in the 1990s, on her albums ''[[Sweet 19 Blues]]'' (1996), ''[[Concentration 20]]'' (1997) and ''[[Genius 2000]]'' (2000).

== Writing and production ==

Five of the songs on the album are sung entirely in English — three new tracks "In the Spotlight (Tokyo)," "Hot Girls" and "Only You," as well as English versions of the songs from her preceding single "[[Go Round / Yeah-Oh!]]." During an interview with ''[[Billboard (magazine)|Billboard Japan]]'', Amuro stated that the English tracks were not made with overseas audience in mind. She chose to sing them in English because she thought they would sound better in English.<ref name="BillboardInterview"/>

The album's songs featured seven different sound producers, with longtime collaborator [[Nao'ymt]] and new collaborator [[T-SK]] producing four songs each. Nao'ymt, who had worked with Amuro since 2005 on songs such as "[[Baby Don't Cry (Namie Amuro song)|Baby Don't Cry]]" and "[[Hide and Seek (Namie Amuro song)|Hide and Seek]]," worked on four tracks, "Break It," "Get Myself Back," "Fight Together" and "Tempest."<ref name="booklet"/> T-SK, who began working with Amuro in 2011, produced "Go Round," "Let's Go," "Love Story" and "Yeah-Oh" — all songs written by [[Australia]]n band [[The Nervo Twins]].<ref name="booklet"/> In addition to the songs with the Nervo Twins, Amuro worked on three additional songs with the Nervo Twins' music publishing company, the [[Sweden]] based [[Razor Boy Music Publishing]]. "In the Spotlight (Tokyo)," "Hot Girls" and "Only You" were produced by Henrik Nordenback, Michael Smith and [[Peter Mansson]] respectively.<ref name="booklet"/> Of the seven songs featuring Razor Boy Music Publishing artists, five were sung entirely in English. Of these songs, Tiger wrote Japanese lyrics for "Let's Go" "Love Story,"<ref name="booklet"/> and the Japanese versions of "[[Go Round / Yeah-Oh!]]" that appear on the single were written by [[:ja:AILI|Aili]] and [[Double (singer)|Double]] respectively.<ref>{{cite web | url=http://www.jbook.co.jp/p/p.aspx/4308007/s/ | script-title=ja:Ｇｏ　Ｒｏｕｎｄ【ＣＤ＋ＤＶＤ】 |work=JBook |archiveurl=http://web.archive.org/web/20140604093100/http://www.jbook.co.jp/p/p.aspx/4308007/s/ |archivedate=June 4, 2014 | language=Japanese | accessdate=July 14, 2012}}</ref>

The remaining two producers are also previous collaborators of Amuro's: T. Kura ("[[Funky Town (Namie Amuro song)|Funky Town]]" (2007), "[[60s 70s 80s|New Look]]" (2008)) worked with Michico on the track "Sit! Stay! Wait! Down!," while Japanese DJ [[Shinichi Osawa]] ("[[60s 70s 80s|What a Feeling]]" (2008)) produced "Naked" with [[M-Flo]] member [[Verbal (rapper)|Verbal]] writing the lyrics.<ref name="booklet"/>

== Promotion and release==
{{Listen|filename=Namie Amuro - Love Story.ogg|title="Love Story" (2011)|description=The most commercially successful single of the era, "Love Story" is a medium tempo ballad used as the theme song for the drama ''[[Watashi ga Ren'ai Dekinai Riyū]]''.|format=[[Ogg]]
|filename2=Namie Amuro - Fight Together.ogg|title2="Fight Together" (2011) |description2=The pop song "Fight Together" was Amuro's first Japanese anime collaboration in eight years.|format2=[[Ogg]]
|filename3=Namie Amuro - Naked.ogg|title3="Naked" (2011)|description3=The [[Shinichi Osawa]] produced dance track "Naked" was used in a nationwide Kosé campaign.|format3=[[Ogg]]}}

Songs from ''Uncontrolled'' were featured in two major commercial campaigns featuring Amuro as their spokeswoman. "Break It" was used for the ''[[Coca-Cola Zero]]'' "Wild Heart" campaign in 2010, a tie-up that has also featured her songs "[[Wild (Namie Amuro song)|Wild]]" (2009) and "[[Wonder Woman (Namie Amuro song)|Wonder Woman]]" (2011).<ref name="CDJ-tieups">{{cite web | url=http://artist.cdjournal.com/a/amuro-namie/101273/tieup/ | title=安室奈美恵（Amuro Namie） - タイアップ | trans_title=Namie Amuro - Tieups |work=CDJournal | language=Japanese | accessdate=May 26, 2012}}</ref> Japanese cosmetic firm [[:ja:コーセー|Kosé]] used "Naked" and "Go Round" in campaigns for their ''Esprique'' line of eye-make up.<ref name="CDJ-tieups"/> "Hot Girls" will be used in an upcoming campaign.<ref>{{cite web | url=http://recochoku.jp/search/Srch?fkw=&tgt=mid&o=0&ext=1&mid=0%3A21384255%2C&ftgt=aid&sort=c-%2Cr-%2Cm%2B%2Ca%2B&st= | title=Hot Girls(from AL｢Uncontrolled｣) |work=Recochoku | language=Japanese | accessdate=June 27, 2012}}</ref> Amuro had previously worked with Kosé in 2001, in a lipstick campaign featuring "[[Say the Word]]."<ref name="CDJ-tieups"/>

Of the single tracks, four were used in prime-time television shows as their theme songs. "Fight Together" was used as the third theme song for the anime ''[[List of One Piece episodes (season 14)|One Piece]]''{{'}}s 14th season. This was the first time in eight years since Amuro had a song associated with a popular Japanese animation, the last being "[[So Crazy/Come|Come]]" and "Four Seasons" from her 2003 album ''[[Style (Namie Amuro album)|Style]]''.<ref name="CDJ-tieups"/> "Tempest" was the eponymous theme song of ''[[:ja:テンペスト (池上永一)#テレビドラマ|Tempest]]'' (2010),<ref name="CDJ-tieups"/> based on Okinawan novelist Eiichi Ikegami's 2008 novel. "Sit! Stay! Wait! Down!" and "Love Story" were used as the theme songs for the ensemble drama ''[[Watashi ga Ren'ai Dekinai Riyū]]'' (2011),<ref name="CDJ-tieups"/> starring actresses [[Karina Nose|Karina]], [[Yuriko Yoshitaka]] and [[AKB48]] member [[Yuko Oshima]]. Amuro made a cameo performance on the December 12, 2011 episode of the drama, performing the theme song.<ref>{{cite web | url=http://visionfactory.jp/news/news_archives/1112121200_amuro.html | script-title=ja:安室奈美恵:本日放送(12/12)の月9「私が恋愛できない理由」に登場!! | trans_title=Namie Amuro: Today (12/12) appearing on the getsu-ku drama ''Watashi ga Ren'ai Dekinai Riyū''!! |work=Vision Factory | language=Japanese | date=December 12, 2011 | accessdate=May 29, 2012 |archiveurl=http://www.webcitation.org/681XH58bB |archivedate=May 29, 2012}}</ref>

"Only You," an album track, was used as the theme song for the [[WOWOW]] TV broadcast of the [[UEFA Euro 2012]] soccer tournament. WOWOW also broadcast three TV specials about Amuro for her anniversary. ''Namie Amuro 20th Anniversary Special: Live History & Document of Namie Amuro'', broadcast on June 2, 2012, featured behind the scenes footage of the "Only You" video, as well as archive footage of Amuro's lives, music videos and an interview.<ref>{{cite web | url=http://visionfactory.jp/news/news_archives/1204240400_amuro.html | title=安室奈美恵：新曲「ONLY YOU」WOWOW欧州サッカーテーマソング決定！＆「安室奈美恵20周年アニバーサリースペシャル LIVE HISTORY ＆ DOCUMENT OF NAMIE AMURO」6月2日（土）夜7:30～ WOWOWで無料放送決定！ | trans_title=Namie Amuro: New song "Only You" used for WOWOW Europe soccer theme song! & ''Namie Amuro 20th Anniversary Special: Live History & Document of Namie Amuro'' June 2 7:30pm free broadcast on WOWOW! |work=Vision Factory | language=Japanese | date=April 24, 2012 | accessdate=May 29, 2012 |archiveurl=http://www.webcitation.org/681ayZm0q |archivedate=May 29, 2012}}</ref> On November 3 and 4, 2012, ''Namie Amuro 20th Anniversary Special #2: Live Future & Document of Namie Amuro'' will be released, followed the next day by live footage from her September 16 performance ''Namie Amuro 0th Anniversary Live in Okinawa''. The preceding documentary will feature rehearsal footage for the live, interviews with collaborators who will participate in the concert, and footage of Amuro's promotional tour across Asia.<ref>{{cite web | url=http://natalie.mu/music/news/75838 | title=安室奈美恵、活動20周年記念特番がWOWOWで2夜連続放送 | trans_title=Namie Amuro: two consecutive special programs for 20th anniversary on WOWOW |work=Natalie | language=Japanese | date=September 3, 2012 | accessdate=September 8, 2012}}</ref>

In May 2012, a [[smart phone]] application was released to [[Apple Inc.|Apple]]'s [[App Store (iOS)|App Store]] and [[Google Play]], in promotion for the album, Amuro's 2012 tour, and her 20th anniversary.<ref>{{cite web | url=http://www.visionfactory.jp/news/news_archives/1205252030_amuro.html | title=Namie Amuroスマートフォンアプリ登場! | trans_title=Introducing a Namie Amuro smart phone app! |work=Vision Factory | language=Japanese | date=May 25, 2012 | accessdate=May 29, 2012 |archiveurl=http://www.webcitation.org/681Wtv3b9 |archivedate=May 29, 2012}}</ref>

In late May 2012 outside of [[Shinjuku Station]] in Tokyo, an 8m high billboard painting of the album cover was created over two days, revealing the album cover for the first time. The background of the cover features the [[Solar eclipse of May 20, 2012|annular solar eclipse of May 21, 2012]], which was seen as a total eclipse in Tokyo.<ref>{{cite web | url=http://www.musicman-net.com/artist/17488.html | script-title=ja:新宿に"巨大"安室奈美恵出現、金環日食と圧巻コラボ | trans_title=A "gigantic" Namie Amuro appears in Shinjuku, a collaboration with the annular eclipse
|work=Musicman | language=Japanese | date=May 28, 2012 | accessdate=June 2, 2012 |archiveurl=http://www.webcitation.org/681Wtv3b9 |archivedate=June 2, 2012}}</ref> Amuro made appearances at radio stations in [[Fukuoka]], [[Sapporo]], [[Nagoya]], [[Osaka]] and [[Kyoto]].<ref name="MediaSchedule2">{{cite web | url=http://www.avexnet.or.jp/amuro/info_media.html | title=Media Schedule |work=Avex Marketing | language=Japanese | year=2012 | accessdate=July 2, 2012 |archiveurl=http://www.webcitation.org/68rBMt9zj |archivedate=July 2, 2012}}</ref> In [[Sapporo Station]], a temporary Namie Amuro exhibit was erected at the Paseo department store.<ref>{{cite web | url=http://visionfactory.jp/news/news_archives/1206150000_amuro.html | title=安室奈美恵：ココでしか見られないスペシャル展示イベント！【FM NORTH WAVE安室奈美恵 Museum in paseo】 | trans_title=Special exhibit event with exclusive items! FM North Wave Namie Amuro Miseum in Paseo |work=Vision Factory | language=Japanese | date=June 15, 2012 | accessdate=July 2, 2012}}</ref>

For promotion of the album, Amuro was featured in many fashion magazines, including ''Blenda'', ''Gisele'', ''Glamorous'', ''[[:ja:mina (雑誌)|Mina]]'', ''[[:ja:S Cawaii!|S Cawaii!]]'', ''Spring'', ''Sweet'' and ''[[Vivi (magazine)|Vivi]]''.<ref name="MediaSchedule">{{cite web | url=http://www.avexnet.or.jp/amuro/info_media.html | title=Media Schedule |work=Avex Marketing | language=Japanese | year=2012 | accessdate=June 2, 2012 |archiveurl=http://www.webcitation.org/687XQr6ip |archivedate=June 2, 2012}}</ref>

Namie Amuro travelled to [[Taiwan]], [[Hong Kong]] and [[Singapore]] in late June and early July 2012 to promote the album.<ref>{{cite web | url=http://www.appledaily.com.tw/realtimenews/article/entertainment/20120629/129744/ | script-title=zh:何時來台開唱？安室奈美惠：有機會就會來 | trans_title=When is the concert? Namie Amuro: there's a chance |work=Apple Daily | language=Chinese | date=June 29, 2012 | accessdate=July 2, 2012 |archiveurl=http://www.webcitation.org/68rC7MezV |archivedate=July 2, 2012}}</ref><ref>{{cite web | url=http://www.tokyohive.com/2012/06/amuro-namie-to-make-a-special-stop-in-singapore/ | title=Amuro Namie to make a special stop in Singapore |work=Tokyo Hive | date=June 28, 2012 | accessdate=July 2, 2012}}</ref> During the stop, Amuro held several press conferences, and a series of club dance events called ''Amuro Night'' were held. While Amuro herself did not dance at the events, she attended the event at [[Singapore]]'s [[St James Power Station]].<ref>{{cite web | url=http://entertainment.xin.msn.com/en/celebrity/buzz/asia/namie-amuro%E2%80%99s-whirlwind-trip-to-singapore | title=Namie Amuro’s whirlwind trip to Singapore |publisher=MSN |author=Lee Wei Lin | date=July 10, 2012 | accessdate=July 13, 2012 |archiveurl=
http://www.webcitation.org/697lxnx7s |archivedate=July 13, 2012}}</ref>

=== Promotional singles ===
The four new songs from the album received a gradual ringtone release before the album. The first of which, "Only You," was released as a digital download to cellphones on the day of the album's release.<ref>{{cite web | url=http://recochoku.jp/recochoku_ranking/full.html | script-title=ja:レコチョクランキング　ダウンロード（シングル）ランキング（1位～5位） | trans_title=Recochoku Ranking: Download (single) ranking (#1-#5) |work=Recochoku | language=Japanese | date=June 28, 2012 | accessdate=June 28, 2012 |archiveurl=http://www.webcitation.org/68kvFeNyI |archivedate=June 28, 2012}}</ref> Prior to the album's release, "Only You" received enough radio airplay to chart at number 7 on ''[[Billboard (magazine)|Billboard]]''{{'}}s [[Japan Hot 100]] chart.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.billboard-japan.com/charts/detail/?a=hot100
|title=Japan Billboard Hot 100 |publisher=Billboard Japan |date=July 4, 2012 |accessdate=July 4, 2012 |archiveurl=
http://www.webcitation.org/68uBgaV5p |archivedate=July 4, 2012}}</ref> on [[RIAJ]]'s cellphone download chart, "Only You" charted at number five for two consecutive weeks.<ref name="RIAJ-ITSTokyoOYw2">{{cite web |url=http://satsuki.musicdb.gr.jp/all_info/ranking_weekly/WeeklyRankingAction.do?term=2012s&weeklyCd=20120710&rankKbn=50 |title=レコード協会調べ 2012年07月04日～2012年07月10日＜略称：レコ協チャート（「着うたフル(R)」）＞ |trans_title=Record Association Analysis: July 4, 2012—July 10, 2012 (Abbreviated: RIAJ Chart ('Full-length Cellphone Downloads') | publisher=RIAJ |date=July 13, 2012 |accessdate=July 13, 2012}}</ref>

"In the Spotlight (Tokyo)" was released on July 4, 2012 as a full-length cellphone download.<ref>{{cite web | url=http://visionfactory.jp/news/news_archives/1207040000_amuro.html | title=安室奈美恵：「Only You」「In The Spotlight(TOKYO)」レコチョク着うたフル(R)配信開始!! | trans_title="Only You," "In the Spotlight (Tokyo)" released to Recochoku as a chaku-uta full download! |work=Vision Factory | language=Japanese | date=July 4, 2012 | accessdate=July 4, 2012 |archiveurl=http://www.webcitation.org/68uDx5uGc |archivedate=July 4, 2012}}</ref> The song received enough radio airplay prior to the album's release to chart on the Japan Hot 100 at number 46.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.billboard-japan.com/system/jp_charts/hot100/11-50/ |title=Japan Billboard Hot 100 |publisher=Billboard Japan |date=June 27, 2012 |accessdate=July 2, 2012 |archiveurl=http://www.webcitation.org/68rDRdDPR |archivedate=July 2, 2012}}</ref> The song reached number 15 on RIAJ's download chart.<ref name="RIAJ-ITSTokyoOYw2"/>

"Let's Go" was released in full on July 11, 2012, and "Hot Girls" was released later on July 25.<ref>{{cite web | url=http://recochoku.jp/recochoku_ranking/full.html | script-title=ja:レコチョクランキング　ダウンロード（シングル）ランキング | trans_title=Recochoku Ranking: Download (single) ranking |work=Recochoku | language=Japanese | date=June 28, 2012 | accessdate=June 28, 2012 |archiveurl=http://www.webcitation.org/696H2mJVk |archivedate=June 28, 2012}}</ref><ref>{{cite web | url=http://visionfactory.jp/news/news_archives/1207251000_amuro.html | title="新"コーセー ESPRIQUE CMTVソング『Hot Girls』の着うたフル本日配信スタート! | trans_title=New Kose Esprique CMTV song "Hot Girls" cellphone download starts today! |work=Vision Factory | language=Japanese | date=July 25, 2012 | accessdate=July 25, 2012}}</ref> "Let's Go" reached number 29 on RIAJ.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://satsuki.musicdb.gr.jp/all_info/ranking_weekly/WeeklyRankingAction.do?term=2012s&weeklyCd=20120717&rankKbn=50 |title=レコード協会調べ 2012年07月04日～2012年07月10日＜略称：レコ協チャート（「着うたフル(R)」）＞ |trans_title=Record Association Analysis: July 11, 2012—July 17, 2012 (Abbreviated: RIAJ Chart ('Full-length Cellphone Downloads') | publisher=RIAJ |date=July 20, 2012 |accessdate=July 20, 2012}}</ref>

== Music videos ==
[[File:Dresses at the Namie Amuro exhibit at Paseo in Sapporo.jpg|thumb|Two dresses from "Only You" and one from "Hot Girls" on exhibit.]]

''Uncontrolled'' features the largest number of MVs in Amuro's career: seven MVs from singles, and the remaining four of the new tracks.

"Get Myself Back" was shot at her birthplace, [[Okinawa]], and was the first video of hers to be shot there.<ref name="GMB-Video">{{cite web | url=http://visionfactory.jp/news/news_archives/1006011700_amuro.html | title=新曲「Get Myself Back」MV解禁! | trans_title=Unveiling of "Get Myself Back" music video! |work=Vision Factory | language=Japanese | date=July 1, 2010 | accessdate=May 25, 2012 |archiveurl=http://www.webcitation.org/67v7tJzSs |archivedate=May 25, 2012}}</ref> The location was chosen to express the sentiment of the song.<ref name="GMB-Video"/>

"Only You" was directed by American director [[Thomas Kloss]].<ref>{{cite web | url=http://www.spaceshowertv.com/search/detail.cgi?mu=0090115&ch=0 | title=安室奈美恵 ONLY YOU |work=Space Shower | language=Japanese | accessdate=June 3, 2012}}</ref> The music video for "Only You" was shot overseas, in a desert near [[Los Angeles]].<ref name="WOWOW-20th1st">{{cite AV media |date=June 2, 2012 |title=安室奈美恵20周年アニバーサリースペシャル LIVE HISTORY ＆ DOCUMENT OF NAMIE AMURO |trans_title=Namie Amuro 20th Anniversary Special: Live History & Document of Namie Amuro |medium=Television production |language=Japanese |publisher=WOWOW |location=Tokyo, Japan/Los Angeles, USA}}</ref>

"In the Spotlight (Tokyo)"'s music video was shot with the concept of "making Tokyo a gigantic dance floor," with scenes of the [[Shuto Expressway]], the [[pedestrian scramble]]s in [[Shibuya]], [[Tokyo Skytree]] and [[Tokyo Tower]] featured in the video.<ref>{{cite web | url=http://www.oricon.co.jp/news/music/2012930/full/ | title=安室奈美恵、MVでも金環日食とコラボ | trans_title=Namie Amuro, annular solar eclipse collaboration in music video |work=Oricon | language=Japanese | date=June 13, 2012 | accessdate=June 25, 2012}}</ref>

"Let's Go" features scenes shot with a high-speed camera that revolved about Amuro while she was performing the song.<ref>{{cite web | url=http://news.mynavi.jp/c_cobs/news/etb/2012/06/1-3.html | script-title=ja:安室奈美恵、ロック＆ワイルドな1曲をアルバムから先行配信 | trans_title=Namie Amuro, digital pre-release for 'rock and wild' song |work=My Navi | language=Japanese | date=June 20, 2012 | accessdate=June 25, 2012}}</ref>

At the [[2012 MTV Video Music Awards Japan]], "Love Story" won the Best Female Video award, while "Naked" received a nomination for Best Pop Video.<ref>{{cite web | url=http://natalie.mu/music/news/66421 | title=MTV音楽授賞式「MTV VMAJ」16部門ノミネート作品発表 | trans_title=16 nominations announced for MTV's award ceremony MTV VMAJ |work=Natalie | language=Japanese | date=March 19, 2012 | accessdate=May 25, 2012}}</ref>
<ref>{{cite web | url=http://www.mtvjapan.com/news/music/21251 | title=MTV VMAJ 2012 全受賞作品リスト | trans_title=MTV VMAJ 2012 Total Awards List |work=MTV Japan | language=Japanese | date=June 23, 2012 | accessdate=June 24, 2012 |archiveurl=http://www.webcitation.org/68equQbMk |archivedate=June 24, 2012}}</ref> At the previous year's [[2011 MTV Video Music Aid Japan]] awards, "Break It" was nominated for the video of the year.<ref>{{cite web | url=http://news.searchina.ne.jp/disp.cgi?y=2011&d=0601&f=entertainment_0601_033.shtml | script-title=ja:安室奈美恵　「ＯＮＥ　ＰＩＥＣＥ」主題歌配信 | trans_title=Namie Amuro 'One Piece' theme song download |work=Hot Express | language=Japanese | date=June 1, 2011 | accessdate=May 25, 2012 |archiveurl=http://www.webcitation.org/681ZVg9gA |archivedate=May 25, 2012}}</ref> For the upcoming is nominated for the Best Female Video award, and "Naked" is nominated for the Best Pop Video award.

On June 23, 2012, [[Space Shower]] music video channel aired a special compilation of Amuro's music videos.<ref name="MediaSchedule"/> Amuro was chosen as the "artist of the month" at MTV Japan for July 2012.<ref>{{cite web | url=http://visionfactory.jp/news/news_archives/1207012030_amuro.html | title=～安室奈美恵が7月度の"MTV ARTIST OF THE MONTH ARTIST"に決定！！！ | trans_title=Namie Amuro chosen as the July MTV Artist of the Month |work=Vision Factory | language=Japanese | date=July 1, 2012 | accessdate=July 2, 2012 |archiveurl=http://www.webcitation.org/68equQbMk |archivedate=June 24, 2012}}</ref>

== Tours ==
On September 16, 2012, the 20th anniversary of her debut as a member of the [[Super Monkey's]], Amuro was planned to hold a special live concert in her birthplace of Okinawa. The live features guest appearances by [[Ai (singer)|Ai]], [[Chemistry (band)|Chemistry]]'s Kaname Kawabata, Mummy-D (of [[Rhymester (group)|Rhymester]]), [[Anna Tsuchiya]], [[Verbal (rapper)|Verbal]] (of [[M-Flo]]) and [[Zeebra]].<ref>{{cite web | url=http://natalie.mu/music/news/69603 | title=安室沖縄ライブにZeebra、D、VERBAL、アンナ、AI、川畑 | trans_title=Zeebra, D, Verbal, Anna, AI and Kawabata at Amuro's Okinawa live |work=Natalie | language=Japanese | date=May 18, 2012 | accessdate=May 25, 2012}}</ref> However, due to the approach of Typhoon Samba, the concert was cancelled the day before the show. Because of the nature of the concert, the management of Amuro announced that the concert will not be re-scheduled.
An 8-day dome tour across Japan will be held in November and December 2012 featuring performances in [[Fukuoka]], [[Osaka]], [[Sapporo]], [[Nagoya]] and [[Tokyo]].<ref>{{cite web | url=http://visionfactory.jp/news/news_archives/1204240400_amuro.html | title=安室奈美恵：5大ドームツアー『namie amuro ５大ドーム TOUR 2012 ～20th Anniversary Best～』決定！ | trans_title=Namie Amuro: 5 big dome tour ''Namie Amuro 5 Big Dome Tour 2012: 20th Anniversary Best'' announced! |work=Vision Factory | language=Japanese | date=May 25, 2012 | accessdate=May 29, 2012 |archiveurl=http://www.webcitation.org/681bJuzxd |archivedate=May 29, 2012}}</ref> On July 24 after all of the concert dates selling out, an extra concert was added in [[Nagoya]].<ref>{{cite web | url=http://visionfactory.jp/news/news_archives/1207240000_amuro.html | script-title=ja:安室奈美恵、全国5大ドームツアーチケット即完！追加公演決定！！ | trans_title=Namie Amuro, 5 dome Japan tour tickets sold out! Additional performance announced!! |work=Vision Factory | language=Japanese | date=July 24, 2012 | accessdate=July 25, 2012}}</ref>

Some songs featured on the album were previously performed in past tours of Amuro's. "Break It" and "Get Myself Back" were performed on Amuro's ''Past<Future Tour 2010'' tour,<ref>{{cite web | url=http://www.neowing.co.jp/detailview.html?KEY=AVBD-91829 | title=<nowiki>[DVD] namie amuro PAST < FUTURE tour 2010 / 安室奈美恵</nowiki> |work=Neowing | language=Japanese | accessdate=May 29, 2012}}</ref> and "Break It," "Fight Together," "Get Myself Back," "Naked" and "Tempest" were performed at ''Live Style 2011''.<ref>{{cite web | url=http://www.neowing.co.jp/detailview.html?KEY=AVXD-91620 | title=<nowiki>[Blu-ray] namie amuro LIVE STYLE 2011 / 安室奈美恵 [Blu-ray] </nowiki> |work=Neowing | language=Japanese | accessdate=May 29, 2012}}</ref> "Love Story" was performed at later dates on ''Live Style 2011''; however, it was not included in the performance DVD.<ref>{{cite web | url=http://www.barks.jp/news/?id=1000075383 | title=安室奈美恵、「Love Story」初披露ライヴで「月9も見てね！」と笑顔をみせる | trans_title=Namie Amuro, performs "Love Story" for the first time, tells fans to "Watch the drama!" while shoeing a smile. |work=Barks | language=Japanese | date=December 6, 2011 | accessdate=May 29, 2012}}</ref>

== Critical reception ==
{{Album ratings
| rev1 = ''Hot Express''
| rev1Score = (favorable)<ref name="HotExpressReview"/>
| rev2 = ''Listen Japan''
| rev2Score = (favorable)<ref name="listenjpReview"/>
| rev3 = ''[[Rolling Stone]] Japan''
| rev3Score = {{Rating|3|5}}<ref name="RollingStone"/>
}}

Yoshiki Aoyuki of ''Listen Japan'' agreed with the album's title, hearing that the music sounded unrestrained. He was impressed with the variety of songs even though many of them were dance tunes. He likened the "euro-disco" sound of "Only You" to the sound of [[Kylie Minogue]].<ref name="listenjpReview">{{cite web |url=http://listen.jp/store/diskreview_37344.htm |script-title=ja:新譜レビュー > 安室奈美恵／Ｕｎｃｏｎｔｒｏｌｌｅｄ |trans_title=New Record Review: Namie Amuro/Uncontrolled |author=Yoshiki Aoyuki |publisher=listen.jp |language=Japanese |year=2012 |accessdate=June 2, 2012}}</ref>

Tetsu Hiraga of ''Hot Express'' was extremely impressed with the album, in particular "In the Spotlight (Tokyo)," calling it "the best kind of electro pop." He felt that every song had a similar impressive impact.<ref name="HotExpressReview"/> He described the first single, "Break It," as "Amuro's voice dancing over a tricky guitar and bass." He found her "aggressively shouted singing" very exciting.<ref name="BI/GMB-HotExpress">{{cite web |url=http://www.hotexpress.co.jp/review/2732/ |title=Break It / Get Myself Back (review)|author=Tetsuo Hiraga |publisher=Hot Express |language=Japanese |year=2010 |accessdate=June 2, 2012}}</ref> He enjoyed the mis-match in the song "Sit! Stay! Wait! Down!" between the music, a "thick track with deep vocals" and the "girly in-love lyrics."<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.hotexpress.co.jp/review/3342/ |script-title=ja:安室奈美恵"今聴きたい"愛情に満ちた楽曲群 |trans_title=Namie Amuro's "songs (she) wants to hear" - songs full of affection |author=Tetsuo Hiraga |publisher=Hot Express |language=Japanese |year=2011 |accessdate=June 2, 2012}}</ref> Hiraga felt that "Yeah-Oh" had a "densely Western sound" that was not seen in any other Japanese musicians.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.hotexpress.co.jp/review/3468/ |title=安室奈美恵人間性が声や音に反映された記念碑的Sg |trans_title=Namie Amuro: a momumental single reflecting humanity in voice and sound |author=Tetsuo Hiraga |publisher=Hot Express |language=Japanese |year=2012 |accessdate=June 2, 2012}}</ref>

Hiraga believed in all the reviews of her singles that Amuro's music was "aiming for the highest quality music."<ref name="BI/GMB-HotExpress"/><ref name="HotExpressReview"/><ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.hotexpress.co.jp/review/3162/ |script-title=ja:人を驚かせるのが大好きな安室奈美恵による、全方位型シングル |trans_title=An all-directional single from Namie Amuro, the woman who loves to surprise |author=Tetsuo Hiraga |publisher=Hot Express |language=Japanese |year=2011 |accessdate=June 2, 2012}}</ref>

''[[Rolling Stone]] Japan'' author Kazumi Namba felt the album was "consistent and unshaking," and called the album "approximately Western" and noted how it followed current global trends in global pop music. He called the English recordings "ambitious," and was surprised at how different the work was to her roots in 1990s [[J-pop]]. He rated the album three out of five.<ref name="RollingStone">{{cite web |url=http://www.rollingstonejapan.com/reviews/archive/uncontrolled/ |title=レヴューREVIEW 安室奈美恵『Uncontrolled』 |author=Kazumi Namba |publisher=[[Rolling Stone]] Japan |language=Japanese |accessdate=July 10, 2012}}</ref>

== Chart performance ==
''Uncontrolled'' was Amuro's 10th album to debut at number one on physical data provider ''[[Oricon]]''{{'}}s weekly albums chart, with 292,000 copies.<ref name="Namie1stweekOricon"/> The album stayed at number one for three weeks, and was the second album in her career to achieve this after ''Best Fiction''.

Much like her previous album ''Checkmate!''<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.oricon.co.jp/news/rankmusic/2014084/full/ |title=【オリコン】安室奈美恵、オリジナル作で5年ぶりV2 |trans_title=Namie Amuro, first two weeks at number one with an original album in five years |publisher=[[Oricon]] |date=July 10, 2012 |language=Japanese |accessdate=July 10, 2012}}</ref><ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.oricon.co.jp/news/rankmusic/2014399/full/ |title=安室奈美恵、20年目で初の新作V3 |trans_title=Namie Amuro, new album number one for three weeks just before her 20th anniversary |publisher=[[Oricon]] |date=July 17, 2012 |language=Japanese |accessdate=July 17, 2012}}</ref> 105,000 copies of the album were sold on the first day.<ref name="OricSubsc"/> In its first week, it outsold the second place album, [[Greeeen]]'s ''[[Utautai ga Uta Utai ni Kite Uta Utae to Iu ga Utautai ga Uta Utau dake Utaikire ba Uta Utau keredomo Utautai dake Uta Utaikirenai kara Uta Utawanu!?|Uta...]]'', by 200,000 copies.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.oricon.co.jp/rank/ja/w/2012-07-09/ |title=2012年06月25日～2012年07月01日のCDアルバム週間ランキング |trans_title=June 25, 2012-July 1, 2012 CD Album Weekly Ranking |publisher=[[Oricon]] |date=July 3, 2012 |language=Japanese |accessdate=July 4, 2011 |archiveurl=http://www.webcitation.org/68uGku9DC |archivedate=July 4, 2012}}</ref> The album after one week's sales became the top selling album by a soloist released by that point in 2012 — surpassing [[Ayaka (singer)|Ayaka]]'s ''The Beginning''{{'}}s total sales by 84,000 copies.<ref name="Namie1stweekOricon"/> It has since been topped by [[Keisuke Kuwata]]'s ''I Love You: Now & Forever''.<ref name="OricSubsc"/> The CD+DVD version of the album outsold the CD Only edition by more than eight times in the first week, according to physical data tracker ''SoundScan Japan''.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.phileweb.com/ranking/cd-top20/1639.html |title=週間 CDソフト TOP20 2012年6月25日～2012年7月1日調査分 |trans_title=Weekly CD Soft Top 20 June 25 20120-July 1, 2012 results |publisher=Phile-web |date=July 4, 2012 |language=Japanese |accessdate=July 4, 2011 |archiveurl=http://www.webcitation.org/68uIK4F7V |archivedate=July 4, 2012}}</ref>

The first week total was better than Amuro's previous album, the collaboration compilation ''[[Checkmate! (Namie Amuro album)|Checkmate!]]'', which had sold 252,000 copies.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.oricon.co.jp/news/rankmusic/87301/full/|script-title=ja:安室奈美恵、初のコラボ盤が首位 |trans_title=Namie Amuro, first collaboration disc top rank |publisher=[[Oricon]]|date=May 3, 2011 |language=Japanese |accessdate=May 3, 2011}}</ref> However, Amuro's previous studio album, ''[[Past Future|Past<Future]]'', outsold ''Uncontrolled''{{'}}s first week by 39,000 copies.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.oricon.co.jp/news/rankmusic/71830/full/ |script-title=ja:30代でもアルバム1位、安室奈美恵が女性初10～30代首位制覇 |trans_title=A number one even in her 30s, Namie Amuro becomes first woman to have an album in her teens, twenties and thirties. |publisher=[[Oricon]]|date=December 22, 2009 |language=Japanese |accessdate=July 3, 2012}}</ref>

In [[Taiwan]], ''Uncontrolled'' debuted at number five, underneath [[Yoga Lin]], [[Big Bang (South Korean band)|Big Bang]], [[Nick Chou]] and [[Christine Fan]].<ref name="TaiwanWeek1"/> In its second week, it fell to number 15.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.g-music.com.tw/GMusicBillboard0.aspx|title=Weekly Top 20: Combo Chart|language=Chinese|publisher=G-Music|archiveurl=http://www.webcitation.org/699Eo3Xyi|archivedate=July 14, 2012|accessdate=July 14, 2012}}</ref> In [[South Korea]], the album reached number 36 on the ''[[Gaon Chart|Gaon]]'' albums charts, and in its second week fell out of the top 100.<ref name="Gaonw1"/>

== Track listing ==
The finalised tracklist was first released on Amuro's official [[YouTube]] channel on June 8, 2012.<ref>{{cite web | url=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xV7UDu-3jV8 | title=NEW ALBUM 「Uncontrolled」 Live Painting Movie@Tokyo・Shinjyuku / 安室奈美恵 (Namie Amuro) |work=Vision Factory | language=Japanese | date=June 8, 2012 | accessdate=June 22, 2012}}</ref>

{{tracklist
| headline = CD
| collapsed = no
| lyrics_credits = yes
| music_credits = yes
| total_length = 50:17

| title1 = [[In the Spotlight (Tokyo)]]
| lyrics1 = Henrik Nordenback, Christian Fast
| music1 = H. Nordenback, C. Fast
| length1 = 3:58

| title2 = [[Naked / Fight Together / Tempest|Naked]]
| lyrics2 = [[Verbal (rapper)|Verbal]]
| music2 = [[Shinichi Osawa]]
| length2 = 4:22

| title3 = Go Round ('N Round 'N Round)
| lyrics3 = [[The Nervo Twins|Liv Nervo]], [[The Nervo Twins|Mim Nervo]]
| music3 = T-SK, Kim Tesung, L. Nervo, M. Nervo
| length3 = 3:21

| title4 = [[Sit! Stay! Wait! Down! / Love Story|Sit! Stay! Wait! Down!]]
| lyrics4 = [[:ja:MICHICO|Michico]]
| music4 = [[:ja:T.KURA|T. Kura]], Michico
| length4 = 3:14

| title5 = Hot Girls
| lyrics5 = L. Nervo, M. Nervo, Michael Dennis Smith, Stefanie Ridel
| music5 = L. Nervo, M. Nervo, M. Smith, S. Ridel
| length5 = 2:59

| title6 = [[Break It/Get Myself Back|Break It]] (Al Ver.)
| lyrics6 = [[:ja:Nao'ymt|Nao'ymt]]
| music6 = Nao'ymt
| length6 = 3:22

| title7 = [[Break It/Get Myself Back|Get Myself Back]]
| lyrics7 = Nao'ymt
| music7 = Nao'ymt
| length7 = 4:32

| title8 = [[Sit! Stay! Wait! Down! / Love Story|Love Story]]
| lyrics8 = Tiger
| music8 = T-SK, T. Kim, L. Nervo, M. Nervo
| length8 = 4:44

| title9 = [[Let's Go (Namie Amuro song)|Let's Go]]
| lyrics9 = Tiger, L. Nervo, M. Nervo
| music9 = T-SK, T. Kim, L. Nervo, M. Nervo
| length9 = 3:11

| title10 = Singing "Yeah-Oh!"
| lyrics10 = L. Nervo, M. Nervo
| music10 = T-SK, T. Kim, L. Nervo, M. Nervo,
| length10 = 3:23

| title11 = [[Naked / Fight Together / Tempest|Fight Together]]
| lyrics11 = Nao'ymt
| music11 = Nao'ymt
| length11 = 4:17

| title12 = [[Only You (Namie Amuro song)|Only You]]
| lyrics12 = Didrik Thott, C. Fast, [[Peter Mansson]], Sharon Vaughn
| music12 = D. Thott, C. Fast, P. Mansson, S. Vaughn
| length12 = 4:14

| title13 = [[Naked / Fight Together / Tempest|Tempest]]
| lyrics13 = Nao'ymt
| music13 = Nao'ymt
| length13 = 4:35
}}
{{tracklist
| headline = DVD: Music video
| collapsed = yes
| music_credits = no
| extra_column = Director(s)

| title1 = In the Spotlight (Tokyo)
| extra1 = [[:ja:久保茂昭|Shigeaki Kubo]]

| title2 = Naked
| extra2 = [[:ja:関根光才|Kosai Sekine]]

| title3 = Go Round
| extra3 = S. Kubo

| title4 = Hot Girls
| extra4 = [[:ja:関根光才|Kazuaki Seki]]

| title5 = Break It
| extra5 = S. Kubo

| title6 = Get Myself Back
| extra6 = S. Kubo

| title7 = Love Story
| extra7 = [[:ja:川村ケンスケ|Kensuke Kawamura]]

| title8 = Let's Go
| extra8 = K. Kawamura

| title9 = Yeah-Oh
| extra9 = [[:ja:竹久正記|Masaki Takehisa]]

| title10 = Only You
| extra10 = [[Thomas Kloss]]

| title11 = Tempest
| extra11 = K. Sekine
}}

==Personnel==

Personnel details were sourced from ''Uncontrolled'''s liner notes booklet.<ref name="booklet">{{cite AV media notes |title=Uncontrolled |others=[[Namie Amuro]] |year=2012 |language=Japanese |publisher=[[Avex Marketing]] |location=Tokyo, Japan}}</ref>

'''Managerial'''
{{col-begin}}
{{col-2}}
*Hiromi Amano – [[Artists and repertoire|A&R]]
*Shinji Hayashi – executive producer
*Shintaro Higuchi – producer
*Hisahiko Iida – producer
*Toru Ishitsuka – orchestra coordinator (#13)
*Takashi Kasuga – executive producer
*Koji Makuuchi – musician coordinator (#13)
*[[Max Matsuura|Masato "Max" Matsuura]] – executive supervisor
{{col-2}}
*Kazutaka Naya – musician coordinator (#13)
*Hiromi Owada – A&R desk
*Michiharu Sato – A&R supervisor
*Ryosuke Sekii – A&R
*Daisuke Shimokawa – producer
*Tetsuo Taira – executive supervisor
*Rie Wada – artist management
*Kazumi Yanagi – A&R chief
{{col-end}}

'''Performance credits'''
{{col-begin}}
{{col-2}}
*Namie Amuro – [[Singing|vocals]], [[Backing vocalist|background vocals]]
*Tomoyuki Asakawa – harp (#13)
*Kenshow Hagiwara – horn (#13)
*Masaaki Kawamura – oboe (#13)
*Mari Ishida – piano (#13)
*Tsutomu Isohata – horn (#13)
*Yoichi Murata – trombone (#13)
*Mim Nervo – background vocals (#5)
*Liv Nervo – background vocals (#5)
{{col-2}}
*Shin Ohmura – guitars (#6)
*Koh Okumura – trombone (#13)
*Masahiko Sugasaka – trumpet (#13)
*Hideyo Takakuwa – flute (#13)
*Tokunaga Tomomi Strings – string section (#13)
*Junko Wakamitsu – flute (#13)
*Kimio Yamane – clarinet (#13)
*Hitoshi Yokoyama – trumpet (#13)
{{col-end}}

'''Visuals and imagery'''
{{col-begin}}
{{col-2}}
*Takeshi Hanzawa – photographer
*Taku Hatao – photographic operation
*Akemi Nakano – hair, make-up
{{col-2}}
*Akira Noda – stylist
*Through. – art direction, design
{{col-end}}

'''Technical and production'''
{{col-begin}}
{{col-2}}
*Tom Coyne – mastering (at Sterling Sound)
*D.O.I. – mixing (at Daimonion Recordings) (#1, #3—13)
*Kohei Hatakeyama – recording (#8)
*Susumu Isa – vocal direction (#8)
*Ryosuke Kataoka – recording (#1—13)
*Chifumi Karasawa – orchestra recording (at Sound City) (#13)
*[[HiDE Kawada]] – music direction (#3, #8—10)
*Neeraj Khajanchi – recording (#10)
*Peter Mansson – [[Record producer|production]] (#12)
*Michico – vocal production (#4)
{{col-2}}
*Tatsuya Murayama – orchestra arrangement (#13)
*Nao'ymt – production (#6—7, #11, #13)
*Henrik Nordenback – production (#1)
*Shinichi Osawa – arrangement, mixing, production (#2)
*Kenji Sano – vocal direction (#1, #3, #5, #9, #12)
*Michael "Smidi" Smith – production (#5)
*Tiger – chorus arrangement (#2), vocal direction (#2, #8, #10)
*T. Kura – production (#4)
*T-SK – production (#3, #8—10)
{{col-end}}

==Chart rankings==
{| class="wikitable sortable"
!Chart (2012)
!Peak position
|-
|Japan ''[[Oricon]]'' daily albums<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.oricon.co.jp/rank/ja/d/2012-06-27/ |title=2012年06月27日のCDアルバムデイリーランキング |publisher=[[Oricon]] |trans_title=June 27, 2012 Album Daily Ranking |date=June 27, 2012 |language=Japanese |accessdate=June 28, 2012 |archiveurl=http://www.webcitation.org/68kz4WRkw |archivedate=June 28, 2012}}</ref>
|align="center"|1
|-
|Japan ''Oricon'' weekly albums<ref name="Namie1stweekOricon">{{cite web |url=http://www.oricon.co.jp/news/rankmusic/2013804/full/ |script-title=ja:安室奈美恵、2年半ぶり新作が首位　今年ソロトップの29.2万枚 |publisher=[[Oricon]] |trans_title=Namie Amuro, first new work in two years reaches first place. Currently the best album sold by a solo artist this year with 292,000 copies |date=July 3, 2012 |language=Japanese |accessdate=July 3, 2012}}</ref>
|align="center"|1
|-
|Japan ''Oricon'' monthly albums<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.oricon.co.jp/rank/ja/m/2012-06/|title=CDアルバム月間ランキング|publisher=Oricon|trans_title=CD albums Monthly Ranking|language=Japanese|archiveurl=http://www.webcitation.org/691F7lhWR|archivedate=July 9, 2012|accessdate=July 9, 2012}}</ref>
|align="center"|1
|-
|South Korea ''[[Gaon Chart|Gaon]]'' weekly album chart<ref name="Gaonw1">{{cite web|url=http://gaonchart.co.kr/main/section/album/list.gaon|title=Gaon Weekly Charts|language=Korean|accessdate=July 10, 2012}}</ref>
|align="center"|36
|-
|South Korea ''Gaon'' weekly international album chart<ref name="Gaonw1"/>
|align="center"|8
|-
|South Korea ''Hanteo'' Daily J-Pop Chart<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.hanteo.com/rank/nchart_genre2.asp?Page=daily&genre=21|title=Hanteo Daily Charts|language=Korean|archiveurl=http://www.webcitation.org/694Fzmnf4|archivedate=July 11, 2012|accessdate=July 10, 2012}}</ref>
|align="center"|1
|-
|South Korea ''Hanteo'' Weekly J-Pop Chart<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.hanteo.com/rank/nchart_genre2.asp?Page=weekly&genre=21|title=Hanteo Weekly Charts|language=Korean|archiveurl=http://www.webcitation.org/694FsG4EK|archivedate=July 11, 2012|accessdate=July 10, 2012}}</ref>
|align="center"|1
|-
|Taiwan ''G-Music'' J-Pop Chart<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.g-music.com.tw/GMusicBillboard3.aspx|title=Weekly Top 20: J-Pop Chart|language=Chinese|publisher=G-Music|archiveurl=http://www.webcitation.org/68xFhvBdK|archivedate=July 6, 2012|accessdate=July 6, 2012}}</ref>
|align="center"|2
|-
|Taiwan ''G-Music'' International Chart<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.g-music.com.tw/GMusicBillboard7.aspx|title=Weekly Top 20: International Chart|language=Chinese|publisher=G-Music|archiveurl=http://www.webcitation.org/68yAOZHao|archivedate=July 6, 2012|accessdate=July 6, 2012}}</ref>
|align="center"|2
|-
|Taiwan ''G-Music'' Combo Chart<ref name="TaiwanWeek1">{{cite web|url=http://www.g-music.com.tw/GMusicBillboard0.aspx|title=Weekly Top 20: Combo Chart|language=Chinese|publisher=G-Music|archiveurl=http://www.webcitation.org/68xFjjV9H|archivedate=July 6, 2012|accessdate=July 6, 2012}}</ref>
|align="center"|5
|}

===Sales and certifications===
{| class="wikitable"
!Chart
!Amount
|-
|''Oricon'' physical sales<ref name="OricSubsc">{{cite web | title=オリコンランキング情報サービス「you大樹」 |trans_title=Oricon Ranking Information Service "You Big Tree" | url=http://ranking.oricon.co.jp | work=[[Oricon]] | accessdate=January 9, 2014}} (subscription only)</ref>
|align="center"|540,000 
|-
|''[[RIAJ]]'' physical shipping certification<ref name="RIAJcert">{{cite web | script-title=ja:ゴールド等認定作品一覧　2012年6月 | trans_title=Works Receiving Certifications List (Gold, etc) (June 2012) | url=http://www.riaj.or.jp/data/others/gold/201206.html | work=[[RIAJ]] |language=Japanese | date=July 10, 2012 | accessdate=July 10, 2012}}</ref>
|align="center"|2× platinum (500,000+)
|}

==Release history==
{|class="wikitable"
! Region
! Date
! Format
! Distributing Label
! Catalogue codes
|-
|rowspan="1"|[[Japan]]
|{{Start date|2012|06|27}}<ref name="Neowing"/><ref>{{cite web | url=http://www.neowing.co.jp/detailview.html?KEY=AQZD-50725 | title=<nowiki>[グッズ] 未定 [PLAYBUTTON][初回限定生産] / 安室奈美恵</nowiki> |work=Neowing | language=Japanese | accessdate=May 25, 2012}}</ref>
|[[CD]], CD+[[DVD]], playbutton
|rowspan="1"|[[Avex Trax]]
|AVCD-38523, AVCD-38522, AQZD-50725
|-
|rowspan="1"|[[Hong Kong]]
|rowspan="2"|{{Start date|2012|06|29}}<ref>{{cite web | url=http://www.avexasia.com/products_detail.php?aid=27621 | title=安室奈美惠 Namie Amuro Uncontrolled |work=Avex Asia | language=Chinese | year=2012 | accessdate=June 27, 2012 |archiveurl=http://www.webcitation.org/68jFPOfG3 |archivedate=June 27, 2012}}</ref><ref>{{cite web | url=http://www.avex.com.tw/Artist/artist_news_info.asp?NewsID=2128&ArtistCode=AMUROJ | title=安室奈美惠最新專輯『Uncontrolled』預購告知 | trans_title=Pre-order Namie Amuro's new album 'Uncontrolled' |work=Avex Taiwan | language=Chinese | date=June 5, 2012 | accessdate=June 10, 2012 |archiveurl=http://www.webcitation.org/68JSFdnse |archivedate=June 10, 2012}}</ref>
|CD, CD+DVD
|rowspan="1"|[[Avex Asia]]
|AAJCD20103, AAJCD20102D
|-
|rowspan="1"|[[Taiwan]]
|CD, CD+DVD
|rowspan="1"|[[Avex Taiwan]]
|AVJCD10510, AVJCD10510/A
|-
|rowspan="1"|[[South Korea]]
|{{Start date|2012|07|05}}<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.yes24.com/24/goods/7225867?scode=032&OzSrank=1 |title=<nowiki>YES24 - Amuro Namie - Uncontrolled CD+DVD 예약판매 </nowiki> |publisher=Yes24 |language=Korean |accessdate=June 27, 2012}}</ref>
|CD+DVD
|[[S.M. Entertainment]]/[[KT Corporation|KMP Holdings]]
|SMKJT0189B
|-
|rowspan="2"|Japan
|{{Start date|2012|07|11}}<ref name="DownloadDate">{{cite web |url=http://visionfactory.jp/news/news_archives/1207110000_amuro.html |title=安室奈美恵：『Uncontrolled』レコチョク着うたフル(R)配信開始!! |trans_title=Uncontrolled released as a full-length download to Recochoku!! |publisher=Vision Factory |accessdate=July 12, 2012 |archiveurl=http://www.webcitation.org/696Et0jHs |archivedate=June 12, 2012}}</ref>
|Digital download
|rowspan="2"|Avex Trax
|rowspan="2"|
|-
|{{Start date|2012|07|14}}<ref name="Tsutaya">{{cite web |url=http://www.tsutaya.co.jp/works/20471072.html |title=Uncontrolled/安室奈美恵 |publisher=Tsutaya |accessdate=May 25, 2012}}</ref>
|Rental CD
|-
|[[Singapore]]<ref>{{Cite web|url=http://hmv.com.sg/product.php?sku=636429|title=AMURO NAMIE 安室奈美惠 - UNCONTROLLED (NORMAL VER: +DVD)|publisher=HMV Group (Singapore)|accessdate=05/11/2012}}</ref>
|{{start date|2012|08|03}}
|rowspan="2"|CD, CD+DVD
|[[Universal Music]]
|rowspan="2"|AAJCD20103, AAJCD20102D
|-
|[[Philippines]]<ref>{{cite web|url=https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10152167792945414&set=a.270233410413.307897.214540185413&type=1|title=Namie Amuro Uncontrolled Album Launch|work=[[Universal Records (Philippines)]]|accessdate=2012-10-12}}</ref>
|{{start date|2012|10|20}}
|[[Universal Records (Philippines)]]
|}

== References ==
{{reflist|2}}

{{Namie Amuro}}

[[Category:2012 albums]]
[[Category:Namie Amuro albums]]
[[Category:Avex Group albums]]
[[Category:Japanese-language albums]]
[[Category:Contemporary R&B albums]]

Hurry Up, We’re Dreaming

2016-01-04T06:21:18Z

Hazard-Bot: Bot: Replacing {{start date}} with the actual date (it should only be used once in a template that emits microformats; see Template:Start date/doc)

{{Infobox album 
| Name = Hurry Up, We're Dreaming
| Type = studio
| Artist = [[M83 (band)|M83]]
| Cover = M83-Hurry-Up-Were-Dreaming.jpg
| Released = {{Start date|2011|10|18|df=yes}}
| Recorded =
| Genre = {{flatlist|
* [[Electronic music|Electronic]]
* [[synthpop]]
}}
| Length = 73:34
| Label = {{flatlist|
* [[Naïve Records|Naïve]]
* [[Mute Records|Mute]]
}}
| Producer = {{flatlist|
* [[Justin Meldal-Johnsen]]
* Anthony Gonzalez
}}
| Last album = ''[[Saturdays = Youth]]'' (2008)
| This album = '''''Hurry Up, We're Dreaming''''' (2011)
| Next album = ''[[Oblivion (2013 film)#Music|Oblivion]]'' (2013)
| Misc = {{Singles
| Name = Hurry Up, We're Dreaming
| Type = studio
| Single 1 = [[Midnight City]]
| Single 1 date = 16 August 2011
| Single 2 = [[Reunion (M83 song)|Reunion]]
| Single 2 date = 5 February 2012
| Single 3 = OK Pal
| Single 3 date = 30 July 2012
| Single 4 = Steve McQueen
| Single 4 date = 27 November 2012
| Single 5 = Wait
| Single 5 date = 5 December 2012
}}
}}

'''''Hurry Up, We're Dreaming''''' is the sixth [[studio album]] by French [[Electronic music|electronic]] band [[M83 (band)|M83]]. The [[double album]] was released on 18 October 2011 by [[Naïve Records]] in France and [[Mute Records]] in the United States.<ref name="ilovem83.com">{{cite web |url=http://ilovem83.com/music/albums/hurry-up-were-dreaming/ |title=Hurry Up, We're Dreaming |publisher=ilovem83.com |accessdate=10 October 2011}}</ref><ref>{{cite web |url=http://mute.com/release/hurry-up-were-dreaming |title=M83 • Hurry Up, We're Dreaming |publisher=[[Mute Records]] |accessdate=13 August 2011}}</ref> The album was produced by [[Justin Meldal-Johnsen]], mixed by [[Tony Hoffer]] and has received generally positive reviews.<ref>{{cite web |last=Studarus |first=Laura |url=http://www.undertheradarmag.com/news/m83_announces_hurry_up_were_dreaming/ |title=M83 Announces "Hurry Up, We're Dreaming" |work=[[Under the Radar (magazine)|Under the Radar]] |date=19 July 2011 |accessdate=13 August 2011}}</ref><ref name="MC"/> In addition, it debuted at number fifteen on the US [[Billboard 200|''Billboard'' 200]] with first-week sales of 21,000 copies, becoming M83's highest-charting album to date.<ref>{{cite web |last=Trust |first=Gary |url=http://www.billboard.biz/bbbiz/industry/record-labels/chart-moves-katy-perry-s-away-rises-on-hot-1005447752.story |title=Chart Moves: Katy Perry's 'Away' Rises on Hot 100, M83's New Album Makes Splashy Debut |work=[[Billboard (magazine)|Billboard]] |publisher=[[Prometheus Global Media]] |date=27 October 2011 |accessdate=7 November 2011}}</ref> The album was nominated for [[Grammy Award for Best Alternative Music Album|Best Alternative Music Album]] at the [[2013 Grammy Awards]].

The album was recognized as one of The 100 Best Albums of the Decade So Far by [[Pitchfork Media]] in August 2014.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://pitchfork.com/features/staff-lists/9465-the-top-100-albums-of-2010-2014/|title=The 100 Best Albums of the Decade So Far|accessdate=13 September 2014}}</ref>

==Production==

===Background and recording===
Prior to recording ''Hurry Up, We're Dreaming'', Anthony Gonzalez had moved from his native France to [[Los Angeles]]. Describing the move in an interview, Gonzalez said: "Having spent 29 years of my life in France, I moved to California a year and a half before the making of this album and I was excited and inspired by so many different things: by the landscape, by the way of life, by live shows, by movies, by the road trips I took alone... I was feeling alive again and this is, I feel, something that you can hear on the album"<ref>[http://www.7digital.com/features/interviews/m83 M83 Interview]. 7digital.com. Retrieved 30 March 2012.</ref> Gonzalez's tour with [[The Killers]], [[Depeche Mode]] and [[Kings of Leon]], in addition to his road trips to [[Joshua Tree National Park]] also heavily influenced the album.<ref name="observerinterview">{{cite web |last=Bainbridge |first=Luke |url=http://www.guardian.co.uk/music/2011/sep/11/m83-anthony-gonzalez-dance-interview |title=Anthony Gonzalez aka M83: 'I just turned 30 – it was time to try something I'd remember all my life. |work=[[The Observer]] |publisher=[[guardian.co.uk]] |date=11 September 2011 |accessdate=27 September 2011}}</ref><ref name="pitchforkinterview">{{cite web |last=Dombal |first=Ryan |url=http://www.pitchfork.com/features/interviews/8680-m83/ |title=Interviews: M83 |publisher=[[Pitchfork Media]] |date=2 October 2011 |accessdate=21 October 2011}}</ref> Gonzalez cited the ambitiousness of albums such as ''[[Mellon Collie and the Infinite Sadness]]'' as the reason he made ''Hurry Up, We're Dreaming'' a double album. In addition, he described the two discs as brother and sister, with each track having a sibling on the other disc.<ref name="observerinterview"/> The album was recorded in Los Angeles at Sunset Studio and [[The Sound Factory]].<ref>{{cite web |last=Rachel |first=T. Cole |url=http://stereogum.com/849432/progress-report-m83/franchises/progress-report/ |title=Progress Report: M83 |publisher=[[Stereogum]] |date=19 October 2011 |accessdate=21 October 2011}}</ref> Because of budget constraints and union issues, the string and brass players who contributed to the album were not paid and were credited with pseudonyms.<ref name="pitchforkinterview"/>

Gonzalez recorded the album as a way to remember his childhood.<ref name=abcinterview>{{YouTube|YoJFZUTdcfg|M83 Interview: Anthony Gonzalez Discusses New Album, 'Hurry Up, We're Dreaming'}}. [[ABC News]]. 14 December 2011. Retrieved 16 December 2011.</ref> Gonzalez explained to ''[[Spin (magazine)|Spin]]'' magazine that ''Hurry Up, We're Dreaming'' is "mainly about dreams, how every one is different, how you dream differently when you're a kid, a teenager, or an adult. I'm really proud of it. If you're doing a very long album, all the songs need to be different and I think I've done that with this one."<ref name="Spininterview"/> In an interview with [[musicOMH]], he described the album as "a reflection of my 30 years as a human being" and something he dedicated to himself.<ref>{{cite web |last=Hogwood |first=Ben |url=http://www.musicomh.com/music/features/m83-2_0911.htm |title=Interview: M83 |publisher=[[musicOMH]] |accessdate=5 October 2011}}</ref>

===Style===
Gonzalez described the album's sound as a mix between the [[synthpop]] of ''[[Saturdays = Youth]]'' and the more [[ambient music|ambient]] work of ''[[Before the Dawn Heals Us]]''.<ref name="Spininterview">{{cite web |last=O'Donnell |first=Kevin |url=http://www.spin.com/articles/m83-reveal-plans-epic-double-album |title=M83 Reveal Plans for "Epic" Double Album |work=[[Spin (magazine)|Spin]] |publisher=Spin Media LLC |date=6 June 2011 |accessdate=19 July 2011}}</ref> Additionally, the album uses instruments not found on previous M83 albums, such as [[acoustic guitar]] and [[saxophone]].<ref>{{cite web |last=Gourlay |first=Dom |url=http://drownedinsound.com/in_depth/4143585-i-ve-never-really-been-that-proud-of-saturdays-youth-dis-meets-m83 |title=''"I've never really been that proud of Saturdays=Youth"'' – DiS meets M83 |publisher=[[Drowned in Sound]] |date=23 September 2011 |accessdate=24 September 2011}}</ref> ''Hurry Up, We're Dreaming'' also features contributions from [[Medicine (band)|Medicine]]'s [[Brad Laner]] and [[Zola Jesus]].<ref name="Spininterview"/> Critics have noted musical influences from '80s artists such as [[Kraftwerk]], [[Simple Minds]], [[Peter Gabriel]] and [[Harold Faltermeyer]], as well as modern electronic artists such as [[Cut Copy]].<ref name="pitchfork"/><ref name=musicomh>Shephard, Sam. [http://www.musicomh.com/albums/m83-4_1011.htm M83 - Hurry Up, We're Dreaming]. [[musicOMH]]. 17 October 2011. Retrieved 18 December 2011.</ref><ref name=paste>Ray, Austin. [http://www.pastemagazine.com/articles/2011/10/m83-hurry-up-were-dreaming.html M83: Hurry Up, We're Dreaming ]. [[Paste (magazine)|Paste]]. 17 October 2011. Retrieved 18 December 2011.</ref>

==Release==
''Hurry Up, We're Dreaming'' was first [[teaser campaign|teased]] on 23 June 2011 in a [[YouTube]] video titled "Echoes...", which also announced North American tour dates.<ref>{{cite web |last=Hilleary |first=Mike |url=http://www.undertheradarmag.com/news/m83_teases_upcoming_lp_with_trailer/ |title=M83 Teases Upcoming LP with Trailer |work=[[Under the Radar (magazine)|Under the Radar]] |date=28 June 2011 |accessdate=13 August 2011}}</ref><ref>{{cite web |url=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mU6TB8jet-Q |title=Echoes... |publisher=[[YouTube]] |date=23 June 2011 |accessdate=13 August 2011}}</ref> The album's lead single, "[[Midnight City]]", premiered online on 19 July 2011,<ref>{{cite web |url=https://soundcloud.com/m83/midnight-city |title=Midnight City by M83 |publisher=[[SoundCloud]] |date=19 July 2011 |accessdate=13 August 2011}}</ref><ref name="pitchforkannounce">{{cite web |last=Breihan |first=Tom |url=http://pitchfork.com/news/43226-m83-announces-new-album-hear-new-track/ |title=M83 Announces New Album; Hear New Track |publisher=[[Pitchfork Media]] |date=19 July 2011 |accessdate=13 August 2011}}</ref> and was officially released on 16 August 2011.<ref>{{cite web |url=https://itunes.apple.com/us/album/midnight-city-single/id452692699 |title=Midnight City – Single by M83 |publisher=[[iTunes Store]] US. [[Apple Inc.]] |accessdate=8 November 2011}}</ref> On 10 October 2011, the album was streamed in its entirety on the [[Urban Outfitters]] website.<ref>{{cite web |last=Rubin |first=Andrew |url=http://consequenceofsound.net/2011/10/stream-m83-hurry-up-were-dreaming/ |title=Stream: M83 – ''Hurry Up, We're Dreaming'' |publisher=[[Consequence of Sound]] |date=10 October 2011 |accessdate=12 October 2011}}</ref> Urban Outfitters also hosted a simultaneous listening party at all of its stores the Saturday before ''Hurry Up, We're Dreaming'''s release.<ref>{{cite web |last=Mason |first=Kerri |url=http://www.billboard.com/articles/news/465885/m83-delves-into-diaries-for-double-album-hurry-up-were-dreaming |title=M83 Delves Into Diaries For Double Album 'Hurry Up, We're Dreaming' |work=[[Billboard (magazine)|Billboard]] |publisher=[[Prometheus Global Media]] |date=14 October 2011 |accessdate=14 October 2011}}</ref> On 17 October 2011, a music video for "Midnight City" was released.<ref>{{cite web |last=Hyden |first=Stephen |url=http://www.avclub.com/articles/today-in-music-videos-m83-gets-creepy-with-telekin,63520/ |title=Today in music videos: M83 gets creepy with telekinetic kids in "Midnight City" |work=[[The A.V. Club]] |publisher=[[The Onion|Onion, Inc]] |date=17 October 2011 |accessdate=19 October 2011}}</ref> On May 30, 2012, a music video for the album's second single, "Reunion", was released. The "Reunion" music video is a follow-up to the "Midnight City" music video.<ref name=reunionvideo>[http://stereogum.com/1047221/m83-reunion-video/top-stories/lead-story/ M83 – “Reunion” Video]. [[Stereogum]]. 30 May 2012. Retrieved 1 June 2012.</ref> On October 25, 2012, a music video for "Steve McQueen" was released.<ref name=SteveMcQueenVideo>Hogan, Marc. [http://www.spin.com/articles/m83-steve-mcqueen-video M83's 'Steve McQueen' Gets Whimsical, Long-Overdue Video]. [[Spin (magazine)|Spin]]. 25 October 2012. Retrieved 26 October 2012.</ref> The track "Outro" was used as the backing music for the extended trailer created for the film ''[[Cloud Atlas (film)|Cloud Atlas]]''. On November 5, 2012, a three-disc deluxe edition featuring remixes of "Midnight City", "Reunion" and "Steve McQueen" was announced.<ref name=deluxeedition>Battan, Carrie. [http://pitchfork.com/news/48470-m83s-hurry-up-were-dreaming-gets-deluxe-edition/ M83's Hurry Up, We're Dreaming Gets Deluxe Edition]. [[Pitchfork Media]]. 5 November 2012. Retrieved 7 November 2012.</ref> On December 5, 2012, a music video for "Wait" was released.<ref name=WaitVideo>Breihan, Tom. [http://stereogum.com/1213241/m83-wait-video/video/ M83 – “Wait” Video]. [[Stereogum]]. 5 December 2012. Retrieved 8 December 2012.</ref>

==Critical reception==
{{Album ratings
| MC = 76/100<ref name="MC"/>
| rev1 = [[AllMusic]]
| rev1Score = {{Rating|4|5}}<ref name="allmusic">{{cite web |last=Phares |first=Heather |url=http://www.allmusic.com/album/hurry-up-were-dreaming-r2251411/review |title=Hurry Up, We're Dreaming – M83 |publisher=[[AllMusic]] |accessdate=18 October 2011}}</ref>
| rev2 = ''[[The A.V. Club]]''
| rev2Score = B−<ref name="avclub">{{cite web |last=Williams |first=Christian |url=http://www.avclub.com/articles/m83-hurry-up-were-dreaming,63454/ |title=M83: Hurry Up, We're Dreaming |work=[[The A.V. Club]] |date=18 October 2011 |accessdate=18 October 2011}}</ref>
| rev3 = ''[[The Daily Telegraph]]''
| rev3Score = {{Rating|4|5}}<ref name="telegraph">{{cite web |last=Lachno |first=James |url=http://www.telegraph.co.uk/culture/music/cdreviews/8824818/M83-Hurry-Up-Were-Dreaming-CD-review.html |title=M83: Hurry Up, We're Dreaming, CD review |work=[[The Daily Telegraph]] |date=13 October 2011 |accessdate=8 November 2011}}</ref>
| rev4 = ''[[Entertainment Weekly]]''
| rev4Score = B+<ref name="ew">{{cite web |url=http://www.ew.com/article/2011/10/21/albums-oct-28-2011 |title=Albums: Oct. 28, 2011 |work=[[Entertainment Weekly]] |date=21 October 2011 |accessdate=27 November 2011}}</ref>
| rev5 = ''[[NME]]''
| rev5Score = 7/10<ref name="nme">{{cite web |last=Crossan |first=Jamie |url=http://www.nme.com/reviews/m83/12375 |title=Album Review: M83 – 'Hurry Up, We're Dreaming' |work=[[NME]] |date=14 October 2011 |accessdate=18 October 2011}}</ref>
| rev6 = [[Pitchfork Media]]
| rev6Score = 9.1/10<ref name="pitchfork">{{cite web |last=Cohen |first=Ian |url=http://pitchfork.com/reviews/albums/15881-hurry-up-were-dreaming/ |title=M83: Hurry Up, We're Dreaming |publisher=[[Pitchfork Media]] |date=17 October 2011 |accessdate=17 October 2011}}</ref>
| rev7 = ''[[Rolling Stone]]''
| rev7Score = {{Rating|3|5}}<ref name="rs">{{cite web |last=Gross |first=Joe |url=http://www.rollingstone.com/music/albumreviews/hurry-up-were-dreaming-20111018 |title=Hurry Up, We're Dreaming |work=[[Rolling Stone]] |date=18 October 2011 |accessdate=27 November 2015}}</ref>
| rev8 = [[Slant Magazine]]
| rev8Score = {{Rating|2.5|5}}<ref name="slant">{{cite web |last=Liedel |first=Kevin |url=http://www.slantmagazine.com/music/review/m83-hurry-up-were-dreaming/2647 |title=M83: Hurry Up, We're Dreaming |publisher=[[Slant Magazine]] |date=12 October 2011 |accessdate=18 October 2011}}</ref>
| rev9 = ''[[Spin (magazine)|Spin]]''
| rev9Score = 7/10<ref name="spin">{{cite web |last=Marchese |first=David |url=http://www.spin.com/reviews/m83-hurry-were-dreaming-mute |title=M83, 'Hurry Up, We're Dreaming' (Mute) |work=[[Spin (magazine)|Spin]] |accessdate=27 September 2011 |archiveurl=http://web.archive.org/web/20110926010154/http://www.spin.com/reviews/m83-hurry-were-dreaming-mute |archivedate=26 September 2011}}</ref>
| rev10 = ''[[Under the Radar (magazine)|Under the Radar]]''
| rev10Score = {{Rating|9|10}}<ref name="utr">{{cite web |last=Studarus |first=Laura |url=http://www.undertheradarmag.com/reviews/hurry_up_were_dreaming/ |title=M83: Hurry Up, We're Dreaming (Mute) |work=[[Under the Radar (magazine)|Under the Radar]] |date=17 October 2011 |accessdate=18 October 2011}}</ref>
}}

''Hurry Up, We're Dreaming'' received generally positive reviews from music critics. At [[Metacritic]], which assigns a [[standard score|normalised]] rating out of 100 to reviews from mainstream critics, the album received an [[weighted mean|average]] score of 76, based on 38 reviews.<ref name="MC">{{cite web |url=http://www.metacritic.com/music/hurry-up-were-dreaming |title=Reviews for Hurry Up, We're Dreaming by M83 |publisher=[[Metacritic]] |accessdate=18 October 2011}}</ref> [[Pitchfork Media]]'s Ian Cohen gave ''Hurry Up, We're Dreaming'' a "[[List of albums awarded Pitchfork Best New Album|Best New Music]]" designation and dubbed it the band's best record thus far, noting the reduction of the "heavily saturated synths" of Anthony Gonzalez' earlier work in favor of more accessible songs and adding that "the traditionally structured songs here are some of the most thrilling pop music released this year."<ref name="pitchfork"/> Similarly, ''[[The Daily Telegraph]]''{{'}}s James Lachno felt that the album "finally fuses his innate ingenuity with an accessible, commercial edge."<ref name="telegraph"/> Rudy Klapper of [[Sputnikmusic]] complimented the influence of 1980s music on ''Hurry Up, We're Dreaming'', calling the record "near flawless, an essential distillation of the sounds of Gonzalez's youth, nostalgia and melancholy and happiness all mixed up into a sparkling pop stew."<ref>{{cite web |last=Klapper |first=Rudy |url=http://www.sputnikmusic.com/review/46117/M83-Hurry-Up%2C-Were-Dreaming/ |title=M83 – Hurry Up, We're Dreaming (staff review) |publisher=[[Sputnikmusic]] |date=17 October 2011 |accessdate=18 October 2011}}</ref> ''[[The Independent]]'' critic [[Simon Price]] praised it as "a towering city of sparkling synth edifices simultaneously summoning the best of the 1980s ([[New Order]], [[The Cure]]) and the current breed ([[The Knife]], [[Empire of the Sun (band)|Empire of the Sun]])".<ref>{{cite news |last=Price |first=Simon |authorlink=Simon Price |url=http://www.independent.co.uk/arts-entertainment/music/reviews/album-m83-hurry-up-were-dreaming-naive-2371501.html |title=Album: M83, Hurry Up, We're Dreaming (Naive) |work=[[The Independent]] |publisher=Independent Print Limited |date=16 October 2011 |accessdate=8 November 2011}}</ref>

''[[Under the Radar (magazine)|Under the Radar]]''{{'}}s Laura Studarus described ''Hurry Up, We're Dreaming'' as a "remarkable accomplishment" and a "double album of stunningly ambitious, synth-soaked dreams".<ref name="utr"/> In a review for the ''[[NME]]'', Jamie Crossan compared the album's "guileless and dreamy" nature to the title character of [[Antoine de Saint-Exupéry]]'s 1943 novella ''[[The Little Prince]]'' and admitted that such would be "quite a bold statement to make, but this is an album of equal valour."<ref name="nme"/> Reef Younis of [[BBC Music]] felt that while "some consistency may have been sacrificed in favour of a space-filling selection of tracks, this set still represents a heaving, breathing journey through the introspective and the bombastic, the striving and the exhaustive. It is the undeniable sound of one man's triumphant dreams."<ref>{{cite web |last=Younis |first=Reef |url=http://www.bbc.co.uk/music/reviews/vwcg |title=Review of M83 – Hurry Up, We're Dreaming |publisher=[[BBC Music]] |date=12 October 2011 |accessdate=8 November 2011}}</ref> Heather Phares of [[AllMusic]] stated that while ''Hurry Up, We're Dreaming'' "may not be quite as striking as ''Saturdays = Youth'', it delivers a welcome mix of classic sounds and promising changes."<ref name="allmusic"/>

David Marchese of ''[[Spin (magazine)|Spin]]'' felt that ''Hurry Up, We're Dreaming'' is "full of goose-bump moments", but that the "lack of something as enjoyably plain (and relatively calm) as '[[Kim & Jessie]]'... makes Gonzalez's insistence on oversize emotions feel a tad restrictive."<ref name="spin"/> In a similarly mixed assessment, Timothy Gabriele of [[PopMatters]] criticized the band for "focusing too much on magnitude throughout and too little on depth" on the album, but noted that the "totality of sound" on the album "has a way of blinding even the most critical listener to the problems that underline many of the album's lesser songs".<ref name="popmatters">{{cite web |last=Gabriele |first=Timothy |url=http://www.popmatters.com/pm/review/150392-m83-hurry-up-were-dreaming/ |title=M83: Hurry Up, We're Dreaming |publisher=[[PopMatters]] |date=27 October 2011 |accessdate=8 November 2011}}</ref> ''[[The A.V. Club]]''{{'}}s Christian Williams found the album underwhelming, concluding that "for an album of such impressive scale and nanoscopic attention to detail, {{sic|''Dreams''}} leaves a surprisingly light impression."<ref name="avclub"/> Kevin Liedel of [[Slant Magazine]] criticised the album for rehashing sounds from earlier M83 albums and felt that it sounded "much more like an M83 wannabe's poor imitation than the real deal."<ref name="slant"/>

===Accolades===
{|class="wikitable"
|-
! Publication
! Country
! Accolade
! Year
! Rank
|-
| ''[[eMusic]]''
| US
| Best Albums of 2011<ref name=emusicbest2011/>
| 2011
| style="text-align:center;"| 2
|-
| ''[[Filter (magazine)|Filter]]''
| US
| Top 10 of 2011<ref name=filtertopalbum/>
| 2011
| style="text-align:center;"| 1
|-
| ''[[Paste (magazine)|Paste]]''
| US
| The 50 Best Albums of 2011<ref name=paste50album2011/>
| 2011
| style="text-align:center;"| 9
|-
| ''[[Pitchfork Media]]''
| US
| Top 50 Albums of 2011<ref name=pitchfork50albums2011/>
| 2011
| style="text-align:center;"| 3
|-
| [[Popmatters]]
| US
| The 75 Best Albums of 2011<ref name=popmatterstopalbums2011/>
| 2011
| style="text-align:center;"| 5
|-
| ''[[Spin (magazine)|Spin]]''
| US
| The 50 Best Albums of 2011<ref name=spintop50albums/>
| 2011
| style="text-align:center;"| 19
|-
| ''[[Stereogum]]''
| US
| The 50 Best Albums of 2011<ref>{{cite web | url=http://stereogum.com/891411/stereogums-top-50-albums-of-2011/franchises/listomania/ | title=Stereogum's Top 50 Albums of 2011 | publisher=[[Stereogum]] | date=December 5, 2011 | accessdate=January 15, 2012}}</ref>
| 2011
| style="text-align:center;"| 12
|}
''Hurry Up, We're Dreaming'' has appeared on several end-of-year lists. ''[[Filter (magazine)|Filter]]'' name it the best album of 2011.<ref name=filtertopalbum>Filter Staff. [http://filtermagazine.com/index.php/news/entry/filters_top_10_of_2011_staff_picks FILTER’s Top 10 of 2011: Staff Picks]. [[Filter (magazine)|Filter]]. 1 December 2011. Retrieved 4 December 2011.</ref> ''[[Paste (magazine)|Paste]]'' named ''Hurry Up, We're Dreaming'' the 9th best album of 2011, writing "As with everything the Frenchman's done so far, the album is lush and ably produced, crescendo after crescendo."<ref name=paste50album2011>{{cite web |url=http://www.pastemagazine.com/blogs/lists/2011/11/the-50-best-albums-of-2011.html?p=5 |title=The 50 Best Albums of 2011|last=Josh |first=Jackson |date=29 November 2011 |publisher=''[[Paste (magazine)|Paste Magazine]]'' |accessdate=2011-12-16}}</ref> [[Pitchfork Media]] named it the third best album of 2011, with Jayson Greene writing: "''Hurry Up We're Dreaming'' doesn't just draw liberally from the spirit of the massive rock albums Gonzalez name-checked, it practically swallows them whole, regurgitating and redistributing them into something listeners from every corner of the music universe can hear a piece of their lives in."<ref name=pitchfork50albums2011>[http://pitchfork.com/features/staff-lists/8727-the-top-50-albums-of-2011/5/ The Top 50 Albums of 2011]. [[Pitchfork Media]]. 15 December 2011. Retrieved 16 December 2011.</ref> [[Popmatters]] ranked ''Hurry Up, We're Dreaming'' #5 on its list of the top 75 albums of 2011, while [[Spin (magazine)|Spin]] ranked the album #19 on its end-of-year list.<ref name=popmatterstopalbums2011>Popmatters Staff. [http://www.popmatters.com/pm/tools/full/152303 The 75 Best Albums of 2011]. [[Popmatters]]. 12 December 2011. Retrieved 12 December 2011.</ref><ref name=spintop50albums>Spin Staff. [http://www.spin.com/articles/spins-50-best-albums-2011?page=0%2C6 SPIN's 50 Best Albums of 2011]. [[Spin (magazine)|Spin]]. 12 December 2011. Retrieved 12 December 2011.</ref> Online music retailer [[eMusic]] ranked the album #2 on its Best Albums of 2011 list.<ref name=emusicbest2011>eMusic Staff. [http://www.emusic.com/listen/#/music-news/list-hub/emusics-best-albums-of-2011-2/: eMusic's Best Albums of 2011]. [[eMusic]]. 26 December 2011. Retrieved 3 January 2012.</ref>

The track "[[Midnight City]]" has been singled out for praise. ''Paste'' named it the second best song of the year.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.pastemagazine.com/blogs/lists/2011/11/the-50-best-songs-of-2011.html?p=5 |title=The 50 Best Songs of 2011|last=Josh |first=Jackson |date=30 November 2011 |work=[[Paste (magazine)|Paste]] |accessdate=30 November 2011}}</ref> [[PopMatters]] named the track the best song of 2011, with Ryan Reed writing: "On this transcendent standout [...] Anthony Gonzalez and co-synth-scientist Justin Meldal-Johnsen build layer upon layer of keys, arena-sized drums, and vocal atmospherics (not mentioning one of the tastiest sax solos this side of a Springsteen record). The result? The synth Sistine Chapel."<ref name=popmatterstopsongs2011>[http://www.popmatters.com/pm/feature/152008-the-75-best-songs-of-2011/P7 The 75 Best Songs of 2011]. [[PopMatters]]. 5 December 2011. Retrieved 5 December 2011.</ref>

==Tour==
[[File:M83 music box 2011.jpg|thumb|right|250 px|M83 on the ''Hurry Up, We're Dreaming'' tour, November 2011 at [[Music Box Theater (Los Angeles)|Music Box Theater]].]]
Prior to the tour, Gonzalez posted an open audition on the M83 website for a multi-instrumentalist who could play guitar, bass and keyboards to join him on tour.<ref name=audition>[http://ilovem83.com/2011/09/13/musician-required-for-m83-tour/ Musician required for M83 Tour]. ilovem83.com. 13 September 2011. Retrieved 13 December 2011.</ref> [[Sparta Township, New Jersey]] native Jordan Lawlor won the audition.<ref name=auditionwinner>[http://www.njherald.com/story/16194852/sparta-resident-on-m83-international-tour Sparta resident on M83 international tour]. [[New Jersey Herald]]. 5 December 2011. Retrieved 13 December 2011.</ref>

The tour for ''Hurry Up, We're Dreaming'' began in [[Mexico City]] on October 15, 2011 and ended December 1, 2011 in [[London, England]].<ref name=2011tour>Fitzmaurice, Larry. [http://pitchfork.com/news/43482-m83-reveals-album-cover-adds-tour-dates/ M83 Reveals Album Cover, Adds Tour Dates]. [[Pitchfork Media]]. 9 August 2011. Retrieved 13 December 2011.</ref> A second leg of the tour began January 12, 2012 in [[Los Angeles]] and was originally going to end August 8, 2012 in [[New York, New York]]. During this second leg, M83 performed at the [[Coachella Valley Music and Arts Festival]] on April 13 and 20, at the [[St Jerome's Laneway Festival]] in Australia and New Zealand, and at [[Lollapalooza]] in Chicago, Illinois.<ref name=2012tour>Roffman, Michael. [http://consequenceofsound.net/2011/12/m83-unveils-2012-tour-dates/ M83 unveils 2012 tour dates]. [[Consequence of Sound]]. 7 December 2011. Retrieved 13 December 2011.</ref><ref name=2012coachella>[http://ilovem83.com/2012/01/10/m83-at-coachella-2012/ M83 at Coachella 2012]. ilovem83.com. 10 January 2012. Retrieved 11 January 2012.</ref> The tour was later extended and ended in London on 8 November.

==Track listing==
All songs composed by Anthony Gonzalez, except "Splendor" written by Anthony Gonzalez and [[Brad Laner]].<ref name = "architects and heroes">architects and heroes [http://architectheroes.blogspot.com/2012/01/7-questions-with-brad-laner.html "architects and heroes: 7 questions with [[Brad Laner]]".] Retrieved 08 September 2012.</ref> Additional music composition by [[Justin Meldal-Johnsen]]. Additional lyrics by Yann Gonzalez, [[Morgan Kibby]] and [[Brad Laner]].
{{Track listing
| headline = CD 1
| total_length = 37:34
| title1 = Intro
| length1 = 5:22
| title2 = [[Midnight City]]
| length2 = 4:03
| title3 = [[Reunion (M83 song)|Reunion]]
| length3 = 3:55
| title4 = Where the Boats Go
| length4 = 1:46
| title5 = Wait
| length5 = 5:43
| title6 = Raconte-Moi une Histoire
| length6 = 4:04
| title7 = Train to Pluton
| length7 = 1:15
| title8 = Claudia Lewis
| length8 = 4:31
| title9 = This Bright Flash
| length9 = 2:23
| title10 = When Will You Come Home?
| length10 = 1:23
| title11 = Soon, My Friend
| length11 = 3:09
}}
{{Track listing
| headline = Interlude
| title1 = Mirror
| note1 = downloadable bonus track<ref name="ilovem83.com"/><ref name="pitchforkannounce"/>
| length1 = 5:45
}}
{{Track listing
| headline = CD 2
| total_length = 35:46
| title1 = My Tears Are Becoming a Sea
| length1 = 2:31
| title2 = New Map
| length2 = 4:22
| title3 = OK Pal
| length3 = 3:58
| title4 = Another Wave from You
| length4 = 1:53
| title5 = Splendor
| length5 = 5:06
| title6 = Year One, One UFO
| length6 = 3:17
| title7 = Fountains
| length7 = 1:21
| title8 = Steve McQueen
| length8 = 3:48
| title9 = Echoes of Mine
| length9 = 3:39
| title10 = Klaus I Love You
| length10 = 1:44
| title11 = Outro
| length11 = 4:07
}}

;Deluxe edition disc 3
#"Midnight City" (Eric Prydz Private remix)
#"Midnight City" (Trentemøller remix)
#"Midnight City" (Team Ghost remix)
#"Reunion" (Mylo remix)
#"Reunion" (Sei A remix)
#"Reunion" (White Sea remix)
#"Steve McQueen" (Maps remix)
#"Steve McQueen" (BeatauCue remix)

==Personnel==
The following people contributed to ''Hurry Up, We're Dreaming:''<ref name=credits>[http://www.allmusic.com/album/hurry-up-were-dreaming-r2251411/credits Hurry Up, We're Dreaming – Credits]. [[AllMusic]]. Retrieved 21 October 2011.</ref>
{{col-begin}}
{{col-2}}
* Anthony Gonzalez – vocals, art direction, backing vocals, clapping, conductor, design, electric guitar, keyboards, orchestral arrangements, piano, producer, programming, snaps, synthesizer
* Chelsea Alden – monologue
* Lydie Benzakin – monologue
* Anouck Bertin – art direction, design, photography
* Roland Brown – management
* Todd Burke – engineer
* Dave Cooley – mastering
* Antoine Gaillet – mixing
* John Graney – whistle
* [[Tony Hoffer]] – mixing
* Graham Hope – assistant engineer
* Gabriel Johnson – trumpet
* Toni Kasza – choir director
* [[Morgan Kibby]] – backing vocals, monologue
* James King – baritone saxophone, flute, saxophone
* Shane Konen – layout
* [[Brad Laner]] – vocals, backing vocals
{{col-2}}
* Cameron Lister – assistant engineer
* Loïc Maurin – clapping, drums, percussion, snaps
* [[Justin Meldal-Johnsen]] – acoustic guitar, bass guitar, clapping, electric guitar, engineer, keyboards, mandolin, percussion, producer, programming, snaps
* Zelly Boo Meldal-Johnsen – monologue
* The Purple Mixed Adult Choir – backing vocals, choir, chorus, clapping
* [[Mike Schuppan]] – assistant engineer, engineer
* Ashkahn Shahparnia – Layout
* The Shakespeare Bridge Children's Choir – backing vocals, choir, clapping, snaps
* Tipple – acoustic guitar
* [[Joseph Trapanese]] – conductor, orchestral arrangements
* [[Joey Waronker]] – electric drums, orchestral percussion, percussion
* Patrick Warren – piano
* Amy White – backing vocals
* [[Lyle Workman]] – acoustic guitar, banjo, mandolin, marxophone
* [[Zola Jesus]] – vocals
{{col-end}}

==Charts==
{{col-begin}}
{{col-2}}

===Weekly charts===
{| class="wikitable sortable plainrowheaders" style="text-align:center"
|-
!scope="col"|Chart (2011–12)
!scope="col"|Peak position
|-
!scope="row"|[[ARIA Charts|Australian Albums Chart]]<ref>{{cite web |url=http://australian-charts.com/showitem.asp?interpret=M83&titel=Hurry+Up,+We're+Dreaming.&cat=a |title=M83 – Hurry Up, We're Dreaming. |publisher=australian-charts.com. Hung Medien |accessdate=2 November 2011}}</ref>
|37
|-
!scope="row"|[[Ultratop|Belgian Albums Chart]] (Flanders)<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.ultratop.be/nl/showitem.asp?interpret=M83&titel=Hurry+Up,+We're+Dreaming.&cat=a |title=M83 – Hurry Up, We're Dreaming. |language=Dutch |publisher=[[Ultratop]]. Hung Medien |accessdate=2 November 2011}}</ref>
|30
|-
!scope="row"|[[Ultratop|Belgian Albums Chart]] (Wallonia)<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.ultratop.be/fr/showitem.asp?interpret=M83&titel=Hurry+Up,+We're+Dreaming.&cat=a |title=M83 – Hurry Up, We're Dreaming. |language=French |publisher=Ultratop. Hung Medien |accessdate=2 November 2011}}</ref>
|36
|-
!scope="row"|[[Canadian Albums Chart]]<ref>{{cite web |url=http://jam.canoe.ca/Music/Charts/ALBUMS.html |title=Top 100 Albums in Canada |publisher=[[Jam!]] [[Canoe.ca]] |date=27 October 2011 |archiveurl=http://www.webcitation.org/62t0zkgEB |archivedate=2 November 2011 |accessdate=2 November 2011}}</ref>
|37
|-
!scope="row"|[[Syndicat National de l'Édition Phonographique|French Albums Chart]]<ref>{{cite web |url=http://lescharts.com/showitem.asp?interpret=M83&titel=Hurry+Up,+We're+Dreaming.&cat=a |title=M83 – Hurry Up, We're Dreaming. |language=French |publisher=lescharts.com. Hung Medien |accessdate=2 November 2011}}</ref>
|38
|-
!scope="row"|[[Irish Albums Chart]]<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.chart-track.co.uk/index.jsp?c=p%2Fmusicvideo%2Fmusic%2Farchive%2Findex_test.jsp&ct=240002&arch=t&lyr=2011&year=2011&week=42 |title=Top 75 Artist Album, Week Ending 20 October 2011 |publisher=[[Chart-Track]]. [[Irish Recorded Music Association]] |accessdate=2 November 2011}}</ref>
|53
|-
!scope="row"|[[Oricon|Japanese Albums Chart]]<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.oricon.co.jp/music/release/d/932106/1/ |script-title=ja:ハリー・アップ・ウィ・アー・ドリーミング/Ｍ８３ |trans_title=Hurry Up We're Dreaming / M83 |language=Japanese |publisher=[[Oricon]] |accessdate=2 November 2011}}</ref>
|210
|-
!scope="row"|[[VG-lista|Norwegian Albums Chart]]<ref>{{cite web |url=http://norwegiancharts.com/showitem.asp?interpret=M83&titel=Hurry+Up,+We're+Dreaming.&cat=a |title=M83 – Hurry Up, We're Dreaming. |publisher=norwegiancharts.com. Hung Medien |accessdate=2 November 2011}}</ref>
|18
|-
!scope="row"|[[Productores de Música de España|Spanish Albums Chart]]<ref>{{cite web |url=http://spanishcharts.com/showitem.asp?interpret=M83&titel=Hurry+Up,+We're+Dreaming.&cat=a |title=M83 – Hurry Up, We're Dreaming. |publisher=spanishcharts.com. Hung Medien |accessdate=2 November 2011}}</ref>
|70
|-
!scope="row"|[[Swiss Hitparade|Swiss Albums Chart]]<ref>{{cite web |url=http://swisscharts.com/showitem.asp?interpret=M83&titel=Hurry+Up,+We're+Dreaming.&cat=a |title=M83 – Hurry Up, We're Dreaming. |publisher=swisscharts.com. Hung Medien |accessdate=19 October 2011}}</ref>
|65
|-
!scope="row"|[[UK Albums Chart]]<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.theofficialcharts.com/search-results-album/_/Hurry+Up+We're+Dreaming#album|title=The Official Charts Company - Hurry Up We're Dreaming by M83 Search |date=6 May 2013|publisher=The Official Charts Company}}</ref>
|44
|-
!scope="row"|[[UK Indie Chart|UK Indie Albums Chart]]<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.officialcharts.com/archive-chart/_/13/2011-10-29/ |title=2011 Top 40 Independent Albums Archive |publisher=[[Official Charts Company]] |date=29 October 2011 |accessdate=2 November 2011}}</ref>
|7
|-
!scope="row"|US [[Billboard 200|''Billboard'' 200]]<ref name="bb">{{cite web |url=http://www.billboard.com/charts/2011-11-05/dance-electronic-albums |title=Dance/Electronic Albums – Week of November 05, 2011 |work=Billboard |publisher=Prometheus Global Media] |accessdate=2 November 2011}}</ref>
|15
|-
!scope="row"|US Alternative Albums<ref name="bb"/>
|4
|-
!scope="row"|US [[Dance/Electronic Albums]]<ref name="bb"/>
|1
|-
!scope="row"|US [[Independent Albums]]<ref name="bb"/>
|3
|-
!scope="row"|US Rock Albums<ref name="bb"/>
|5
|}
{{col-2}}

===Year-end charts===
{| class="wikitable sortable plainrowheaders" style="text-align:center"
|-
!scope="col"|Chart (2011)
!scope="col"|Position
|-
!scope="row"|US Dance/Electronic Albums<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.billboard.com/charts/year-end/2011/top-dance-electronic-albums?begin=21&order=position |title=Dance/Electronic Albums – 2011 Year End Charts |work=Billboard |publisher=Prometheus Global Media |accessdate=17 December 2012}}</ref>
|21
|-
!scope="col"|Chart (2012)
!scope="col"|Position
|-
!scope="row"|US Dance/Electronic Albums<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.billboard.com/charts/year-end/2012/top-dance-electronic-albums |title=Dance/Electronic Albums – 2012 Year End Charts |work=Billboard |publisher=Prometheus Global Media |accessdate=17 December 2012}}</ref>
|9
|}
{{col-end}}

==Certifications==
{{Certification Table Top}}
{{Certification Table Entry|region=France|upfi=yes|artist=M83|title=Hurry Up, We're Dreaming|type=album|award=Platinum|relyear=2011|accessdate=12 August 2014|certyear=2012|autocat=yes
|salesref=<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.upfi.fr/2012/06/certifications-2012/ |title=Palmarès 2012 des certifications UPFI |publisher=UPFI |accessdate=12 August 2014}}</ref>}}
{{Certification Table Bottom}}

==References==
{{reflist|30em}}

==External links==
* [http://ilovem83.com/music/albums/hurry-up-were-dreaming/ ''Hurry Up, We're Dreaming'' on M83's official website]
* [http://ilovem83.com/huwd-album-premiere/ ''Hurry Up, We're Dreaming'' premiere]

{{M83 (band)}}

[[Category:2011 albums]]
[[Category:M83 (band) albums]]
[[Category:Mute Records albums]]
[[Category:Naïve Records albums]]
[[Category:Albums produced by Justin Meldal-Johnsen]]

To Love

2016-01-04T05:30:56Z

Hazard-Bot: Bot: Replacing {{start date}} with the actual date (it should only be used once in a template that emits microformats; see Template:Start date/doc)

{{Infobox album 
| Name = To Love
| Type = studio
| Artist = [[Kana Nishino]]
| Cover = NishinoKanatoLOVEcdonly.jpg
| Alt =
| Released = {{Start date|2010|6|23}}
| Recorded = 2009-2010
| Genre = [[Contemporary R&B|R&B]]
| Length = 57:32
| Label = [[SME Records]]
| Producer =
| Last album = ''Love One.'' (2009)
| This album = '''''To Love''''' (2010)
| Next album = ''Thank You, Love'' (2011)
| Misc = {{Singles
| Name = To Love
| Type = studio
| Single 1 = [[Motto...]]
| Single 1 date = October 21, 2009
| Single 2 = [[Dear.../Maybe]]
| Single 2 date = December 2, 2009
| Single 3 = [[Best Friend (Kana Nishino song)|Best Friend]]
| Single 3 date = February 24, 2010
| Single 4 = [[Aitakute Aitakute]]
| Single 4 date = May 19, 2010
{{Extra album cover
| Upper caption = Alternative cover
|Type=album
| Cover = NishinoKanatoLOVEcd+dvd.jpg
| Lower caption = CD + DVD Cover}}
}}
}}
'''''To Love''''' (stylized as '''''to LOVE''''' in Japan) is Japanese [[contemporary R&B|R&B]] singer-[[lyricist]] [[Kana Nishino]]'s second studio album. It was released on June 23, 2010 by [[Sony Music Entertainment Japan|SME Records]].<ref name="confirm">{{cite web|url=http://www.sonymusicshop.jp/m/item/itemShw.php?site=S&cd=SECL000000876|title=Sony Music Shop|publisher=[[Sony Music Japan]]|language=Japanese|accessdate=2010-06-01}}</ref> The album spawned four [[Oricon]] Top 10 singles, "[[Motto...]]", "[[Dear.../Maybe]]", "[[Best Friend (Kana Nishino song)|Best Friend]]" and "[[Aitakute Aitakute]]".<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.oricon.co.jp/news/music/76837/full/|title=西野カナ、2ndアルバム6/23発売決定ニュース-ORICON STYLE-|date=2010-06-02|work=Oricon Style|publisher=[[Oricon]]|accessdate=2010-06-02}}</ref>

==Background==
"To Love" is Nishino's first album released after she solidified her popularity in the digital market. Despite Nishino's initial singles for her first album, ''[[Love One.]]'', not seeing much success,<ref name="OriconPositions">{{cite web | title=アーティスト：西野カナ | url=http://ranking.oricon.co.jp/free_contents/search/search.asp?artcd=445018&artist=%90%BC%96%EC%83J%83i&ordt=sle&bs=all&bs2=1 | work=[[Oricon]] | accessdate=2010-07-04}}</ref> the songs promoted around the album's release ("[[Tōkutemo]]" feat. [[Wise (rapper)|Wise]], "[[Kimi ni Aitaku Naru Kara]]" and "[[Kimi no Koe o]]" feat. Verbal ([[M-Flo]])) were gradual hits in the digital market.<ref name="RIAJdigi2009-4">{{cite web | script-title=ja:レコード協会調べ　4月度有料音楽配信認定＜略称：4月度認定＞ | url=http://www.riaj.or.jp/data/others/chart/w090520.html | work=[[RIAJ]] |language=Japanese | date=2010-05-20 | accessdate=2010-07-04}}</ref><ref name="RIAJdigi2009-4"/> Since then, all of her singles have hit No. 1 on [[RIAJ]]'s [[RIAJ Digital Track Chart|Digital Track Chart]], which tracks full-length song downloads to cellphones.<ref name="Motto1">{{cite web|url=http://satsuki.musicdb.gr.jp/all_info/ranking_weekly/WeeklyRankingAction.do?term=2009s&weeklyCd=20091020&rankKbn=50|title=RIAJ Digital Track Chart: Chart issue October 20, 2009|date=|work=|publisher=[[Recording Industry Association of Japan]]|accessdate=2009-12-10|language=Japanese}}</ref><ref>{{cite web|url=http://satsuki.musicdb.gr.jp/all_info/ranking_weekly/WeeklyRankingAction.do?term=2009s&weeklyCd=20091201&rankKbn=50|title=RIAJ Digital Track Chart: Chart issue December 1, 2009|date=|work=|publisher=[[Recording Industry Association of Japan]]|accessdate=2009-12-10|language=Japanese}}</ref><ref name="Aitakute2">{{cite web|url=http://satsuki.musicdb.gr.jp/all_info/ranking_weekly/WeeklyRankingAction.do?term=2010f&weeklyCd=20100525&rankKbn=50|title=RIAJ Digital Track Chart: Chart issue May 25, 2010|date=|work=|publisher=[[Recording Industry Association of Japan]]|accessdate=2010-06-01|language=Japanese}}</ref><ref name="BF2">{{cite web|url=http://satsuki.musicdb.gr.jp/all_info/ranking_weekly/WeeklyRankingAction.do?term=2010f&weeklyCd=20100302&rankKbn=50|title=RIAJ Digital Track Chart: Chart issue March 2, 2010|date=|work=|publisher=[[Recording Industry Association of Japan]]|accessdate=2010-03-05|language=Japanese}}</ref> "[[Best Friend (Kana Nishino song)|Best Friend]]" stayed at No. 1 for three consecutive weeks,<ref name="BF2"/><ref name="BF3">{{cite web|url=http://satsuki.musicdb.gr.jp/all_info/ranking_weekly/WeeklyRankingAction.do?term=2010f&weeklyCd=20100309&rankKbn=50|title=RIAJ Digital Track Chart: Chart issue March 9, 2010|date=|work=|publisher=[[Recording Industry Association of Japan]]|accessdate=2010-03-12|language=Japanese}}</ref> while "[[Aitakute Aitakute]]" and "[[Motto...]]" reached No. 1 for two.<ref name="Motto1"/><ref name="Aitakute2"/><ref>{{cite web|url=http://satsuki.musicdb.gr.jp/all_info/ranking_weekly/WeeklyRankingAction.do?term=2009s&weeklyCd=20091103&rankKbn=50|title=RIAJ Digital Track Chart: Chart issue November 3, 2009|date=|work=|publisher=[[Recording Industry Association of Japan]]|accessdate=2009-12-10|language=Japanese}}</ref>

Currently, "Aitakute Aitakute", "Best Friend," "Dear..." and "Motto..." are all certified for 750,000+ ringtone downloads and 500,000+ full-length cellphone downloads.<ref name="RIAJdigi2010-2">{{cite web | script-title=ja:レコード協会調べ　2月度有料音楽配信認定＜略称：2月度認定＞ | url=http://www.riaj.or.jp/data/others/chart/w100322.html | work=[[RIAJ]] |language=Japanese | date=2010-03-22 | accessdate=2010-07-04}}</ref><ref>{{cite web | script-title=ja:レコード協会調べ　11月度有料音楽配信認定＜略称：11月度認定＞ | url=http://www.riaj.or.jp/data/others/chart/w091220.html | work=[[RIAJ]] |language=Japanese | date=2009-12-20 | accessdate=2010-07-04}}</ref><ref name="RIAJdigi2010-4">{{cite web | script-title=ja:レコード協会調べ　4月度有料音楽配信認定＜略称：4月度認定＞ | url=http://www.riaj.or.jp/data/others/chart/w100520.html | work=[[RIAJ]] |language=Japanese | date=2010-05-20 | accessdate=2010-07-04}}</ref><ref name="RIAJdigi2010-5">{{cite web | script-title=ja:レコード協会調べ　5月度有料音楽配信認定＜略称：5月度認定＞ | url=http://www.riaj.or.jp/data/others/chart/w100620.html | work=[[RIAJ]] |language=Japanese | date=2010-06-20 | accessdate=2010-07-04}}</ref> "Maybe" has been downloaded on cellphones more than 100,000 times, along with a B-side to "[[Best Friend (Kana Nishino song)|Best Friend]]" "[[One Way Love (Kana Nishino song)|One Way Love]]" that is not present on the album.<ref name="RIAJdigi2010-5"/><ref>{{cite web | script-title=ja:レコード協会調べ　3月度有料音楽配信認定＜略称：3月度認定＞ | url=http://www.riaj.or.jp/data/others/chart/w100420.html | work=[[RIAJ]] |language=Japanese | date=2010-04-20 | accessdate=2010-07-04}}</ref>

==Writing==
Much like her first album, ''To Love'' is centred around a theme of love. As exactly one year had passed from her previous album, Nishino wanted to express the growth in her values and view on love.<ref>{{cite web | title=西野カナ『to LOVE』インタビュー | url=http://www.hotexpress.co.jp/interview/nishinokana_100622/ | work=Hot Express | accessdate=2010-07-04}}</ref> In an interview with [[Yahoo! Japan]], Nishino stated that for the lyrics on the album she "makes an image from the music, then creates a short film made of images in her head, and from there creates the basis for the scenario for the lyrics.<ref name="OriconDaily"/>

Many of the songwriters from Nishino's first album worked with her again for ''To Love''.<ref name="Tsutaya">{{cite web | title=ｔｏ　ＬＯＶＥ/西野カナ音楽/CD - TSUTAYA online | url=http://www.tsutaya.co.jp/works/20248519.html | work=Tsutaya |language=Japanese | accessdate=2010-07-04}}</ref><ref>{{cite web | title=ＬＯＶＥ　ｏｎｅ．／西野カナ/CD - TSUTAYA online | url=http://www.tsutaya.co.jp/works/20231077.html | work=Tsutaya |language=Japanese | accessdate=2010-07-04}}</ref> [[Sizk]], who worked on the prologue/epilogues from her first album worked on the second albums, while the singles were created with [[Giorgio Cancemi]] (who worked with Nishino on 2/3 of the later promotional tracks from ''Love One.'', "Tōkutemo" and "Kimi no Koe o"). One song was written by Australian songwriters [[Nervo (band)|Nervo]] ("Hey Boy"), much like the songs "Girlfriend" and Nishino's debut single "[[I (Kana Nishino song)|I]]"). [[Jeff Miyahara]] also returned to work with Nishino once again (after producing the single "[[Kimi ni Aitaku Naru Kara]]"), with "[[Summer Girl (Kana Nishino song)|Summer Girl]]" feat. [[Minmi]].

==Chart ranking==
The album debuted at No. 1 on Oricon's daily albums chart, selling 71,000 copies on its first day.<ref name="OriconDaily"/> It stayed at No. 1 for the first week, selling 290,000 copies.<ref name="OriconWeekly">{{cite web | title=西野カナ、2010年ソロNo.1初動＆平成生まれ女性歌手初のアルバム首位 | url=http://www.oricon.co.jp/news/rankmusic/77643/ | work=[[Oricon]] | accessdate=2010-07-04}}</ref> The album's first week sales are currently the highest for a solo artist in 2010. The album was certified triple platinum selling over 750,000 physical copies<ref name="OriconWeekly"/>

Many album tracks were popular enough to chart digitally after the album's release. "Love & Smile", released a week before the album, was the most successful, peaking at No. 3.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://satsuki.musicdb.gr.jp/all_info/ranking_weekly/WeeklyRankingAction.do?term=2010f&weeklyCd=20100622&rankKbn=50|title=RIAJ Digital Track Chart: Chart issue June 22, 2010|date=|work=|publisher=[[Recording Industry Association of Japan]]|accessdate=2010-07-03|language=Japanese}}</ref> Others included "Summer Girl" feat. [[Minmi]] (No. 8), "Kono Mama de" (No. 14) and "You Are the One" (No. 64).<ref>{{cite web|url=http://satsuki.musicdb.gr.jp/all_info/ranking_weekly/WeeklyRankingAction.do?term=2010f&weeklyCd=20100629&rankKbn=50|title=RIAJ Digital Track Chart: Chart issue June 29, 2010|date=|work=|publisher=[[Recording Industry Association of Japan]]|accessdate=2010-07-03|language=Japanese}}</ref>

==Track listing==
{{tracklist
| collapsed =
| headline = CD
| all_lyrics = Kana Nishino except noted
| lyrics_credits = yes
| music_credits = yes
| extra_column = Arranger(s)
| total_length =

| title1 = ＊Prologue＊〜What a nice〜
| lyrics1 =
| music1 = ViVi
| extra1 = Sizk
| length1 = 1:34

| title2 = [[Best Friend (Kana Nishino song)|Best Friend]]
| lyrics2 =
| music2 = Giorgio Cancemi
| extra2 = Cancemi
| length2 = 5:19

| title3 = Summer Girl feat. [[Minmi]]
| lyrics3 = co-written with [[Minmi]]
| music3 = [[Jeff Miyahara]], Minmi, Kenji "Jino" Hino, Masa Kohama
| extra3 = Miyahara, Hino, Kohama
| length3 = 3:49

| title4 = Hey Boy
| lyrics4 =
| music4 = Andreas Levander, Miriam Nervo, Olivia Nervo, Jonas Nordelius
| extra4 = Vivid Neon*
| length4 = 3:18

| title5 = {{Nihongo|[[Motto...]]|もっと…| }}
| lyrics5 =
| music5 = Cancemi
| extra5 = Cancemi
| length5 = 5:30

| title6 = love & smile
| lyrics6 =
| music6 = Toiza71
| extra6 = Toiza71
| length6 = 5:06

| title7 = {{Nihongo|Kono Mama de|このままで|Stay Like This}}
| lyrics7 =
| music7 = Saeki YouthK
| extra7 = Kotaro Egami
| length7 = 4:17

| title8 = [[Dear.../Maybe|MAYBE]]
| lyrics8 = co-written with Giorgio Cancemi
| music8 = Cancemi
| extra8 = Cancemi
| length8 = 4:04

| title9 = WRONG
| lyrics9 =
| music9 = Bachlogic, Winston Sela, [[Daniel Sherman]]
| extra9 = Bachlogic
| length9 = 3:29

| title10 = Come On Yes Yes Oh Yeah!!
| lyrics10 = co-written with DJ Mass and Yuki Keity
| music10 = DJ Mass, Exxit
| extra10 = Vivid Neon*, Exxit
| length10 = 5:06

| title11 = [[Dear.../Maybe|Dear...]]
| lyrics11 =
| music11 = Shinquo Ogura, Cancemi
| extra11 = Cancemi
| length11 = 5:30

| title12 = {{Nihongo|[[Aitakute Aitakute]]|会いたくて会いたくて| }}
| lyrics12 = co-written with Giorgio Cancemi
| music12 = Cancemi
| extra12 = Cancemi
| length12 = 4:42

| title13 = You are the one
| lyrics13 =
| music13 = [[Mats Lie Skåre|Mats Lie Skare]], Zetton
| extra13 = Zetton
| length13 = 4:36

| title14 = ＊Epilogue＊〜to LOVE〜
| lyrics14 =
| music14 = ViVi
| extra14 = Sizk
| length14 = 1:14
}}
{{Tracklist
| collapsed = yes
| headline = DVD
| extra_column = Director(s)
| total_length =

| title1 = {{Nihongo|Kimi no Koe wo|君の声を| }} feat.VERBAL(m-flo)
| note1 = Music video
| extra1 =
| length1 =

| title2 = ''Making of'' Kimi no Koe wo feat.VERBAL(m-flo)
| note2 =
| extra2 =
| length2 =

| title3 = Motto...
| note3 = Music video
| extra3 =
| length3 =

| title4 = ''Making of'' Motto...
| note4 =
| extra4 =
| length4 =

| title5 = Dear...
| note5 = Music video
| extra5 =
| length5 =

| title6 = ''Making of'' Dear...
| note6 =
| extra6 =
| length6 =

| title7 = Best Friend
| note7 = Music video
| extra7 =
| length7 =

| title8 = ''Making of'' Best Friend
| note8 =
| extra8 =
| length8 =

| title9 = Aitakute Aitakute
| note9 = Music video
| extra9 =
| length9 =

| title10 = ''Making of'' Aitakute Aitakute
| note10 =
| extra10 =
| length10 =
}}

==Charts and certifications==
{{col-begin}}
{{col-2}}

===Charts===
{| class="wikitable"
!Chart
!Peak position
|-
|''[[Oricon]]'' daily album chart<ref name="OriconDaily">{{cite web | title=西野カナ、デイリー1位のアルバム制作秘話語る「作詞はストイックに」 | url=http://www.oricon.co.jp/news/music/77492/full/ | work=[[Oricon]] | accessdate=2010-07-04}}</ref>
|align="center"|1
|-
|''Oricon'' weekly album chart<ref name="OriconWeekly"/>
|align="center"|1
|-
|''Oricon'' monthly album chart
|align="center"|1
|-
|''Oricon'' yearly album chart<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.oricon.co.jp/rank/ja/y/ |title=アルバム年間ランキング-ORICON STYLE ランキング |publisher=[[Oricon]] |language=Japanese |date=December 20, 2010 |accessdate=December 20, 2010 |archiveurl=http://www.webcitation.org/5v6zwRQHp |archivedate=December 20, 2010}}</ref>
|align="center"|3
|}
{{col-2}}

===Sales and certifications===
{| class="wikitable" border="1"
|-
! Country
! Provider
! Physical sales
! Certification
|-
| Japan
| [[Recording Industry Association of Japan|RIAJ]]
| +750,000<ref name="OricSubsc">{{cite web | title=オリコンランキング情報サービス「you大樹」 | url=http://ranking.oricon.co.jp | work=[[Oricon]] | accessdate=2010-07-04}} (subscription only)</ref>
| 3x Platinum<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.riaj.or.jp/data/others/gold/201008.html|script-title=ja:ゴールド等認定作品一覧　2010年08月|language=Japanese|publisher=[[Recording Industry Association of Japan|RIAJ]]|accessdate=2010-09-10}}</ref>
|}
{{col-end}}

{{S-start}}
{{Succession box
| before = ''[[No More Pain]]'' by [[KAT-TUN]]
| title = [[Oricon|Oricon weekly]] [[List of number-one albums of 2010 (Japan)|number-one album]]
| years = July 5, 2010 – July 12, 2010
| after = ''[[Jump No. 1]]'' by [[Hey! Say! JUMP]]
}}
{{S-end}}

==Personnel==
{{col-begin}}
{{col-2}}
* [[Bachlogic]] - arrangement/music/production/programming (#9)
* [[Giorgio Cancemi]] - arrangement/music/production/recording (#2, #5, #8, #11-12), lyrics (#8, #12)
* DJ Mass (Vivid Neon*) - cuts/lyrics/music (#10), instruments (#4)
* Kotaro Egami (Supa Love) - arrangement/production (#7)
* Exxxit - music (#10)
* Grumpy (Digz, inc) - mixing (#6)
* Takuya Harada - vocal direction (#9, #13)
* Yuki Hasegawa - child chorus member (#6)
* Kenji "Jino" Hino - arrangement/music (#3)
* [[Hiro (music producer)|Hiro]] (Digz, inc) - vocal direction (#6)
* Satoshi Hosoi - mixing (#3-4, #9-10, #13)
* Marin Iitsuka - child chorus member (#6)
* Yuma Iitsuka - child chorus member (#6)
* Gonta Kawamoto - mixing (#7)
* Yuki Keity (Exxxit) - lyrics (#10)
* Kgro (Digz, inc) - recording (#6)
* Masa Kohama - arrangement/music (#3)
* Andreas Levander - music (#4)
* Mats Lie Skare - music (#13)
* Yasuo Matsumoto - mastering/mixing (#5)
* [[Minmi]] - lyrics/music/vocals (#3)
* [[Jeff Miyahara]] - arrangement/music (#3)
* Toshihiko Miyoshi - mastering (#2, #8, #11), mixing (#2, #8, #11-12)
{{col-2}}
* Miriam Nervo - music (#4)
* Olivia Nervo - music (#4)
* Kana Nishino - lyrics (all tracks), vocals (all tracks)
* Jonas Nordelius - music (#4)
* Mitsuki Ogasawara - child chorus member (#6)
* Kazuma Ogawa - child chorus member (#6)
* Shinquo Ogura - music (#11)
* Saeki Youthk - music (#7)
* Kazuhito Saito - mixing (#7), recording (#1, #4, #6, #9-10, #13-14)
* Hidekazu Sakai - mastering (all tracks)
* Winston Sela - music (#9)
* Daniel Sherman - music (#9)
* Sizk (Star Guitar) - arrangement/mixing/production (#1, #14)
* Rock Sakurai (Exxxit) - instruments (#4)
* So-Hey! (Nerdhead) - violin (#11-12)
* Himari Suzuki - child chorus member (#6)
* Toiza71 (Digz, inc) - arrangement/music (#6)
* ViVi - music (#1, #14)
* Vivid Neon* - arrangement/production (#4, #10)
* Yamachi - guitar (#2)
* Yuichi Yamada (Nerdhead) - keyboard (#2, #5, #8, #11-12)
* Takashi Yamaguchi - guitar (#4, #6)
* Zetton - arrangement/music/programming (#13)
{{col-end}}

==References==
{{reflist|2}}

{{DEFAULTSORT:To Love (Kana Nishino Album)}}
[[Category:2010 albums]]
[[Category:Kana Nishino albums]]

Point of Know Return

2016-01-04T00:49:34Z

Hazard-Bot: Bot: Replacing {{start date}} with the actual date (it should only be used once in a template that emits microformats; see Template:Start date/doc)

{{Use mdy dates|date=July 2013}}
{{Infobox album | 
| Name = Point of Know Return
| Type = [[Album]]
| Artist = [[Kansas (band)|Kansas]]
| Cover = Kansas - Point of Know Return.jpg
| Released = {{Start date|1977|10|11}}
| Recorded = June–July 1977 at Woodland Sound, [[Nashville, Tennessee|Nashville, TN]] and [[Studio in the Country]], [[Bogalusa, Louisiana|Bogalusa, LA]]
| Genre = [[Progressive rock]]
| Length = 44:24
| Label = [[Don Kirshner|Kirshner]] [[Legacy Recordings|Legacy]]/[[Epic Records|Epic]]
| Producer = [[Jeff Glixman]]
| Reviews =
| Last album = ''[[Leftoverture]]'' (1976)
| This album = '''''Point of Know Return''''' (1977)
| Next album = ''[[Two for the Show (Kansas album)|Two for the Show]]'' (1978)
| Misc = {{Singles
| Name = Point of Know Return
| Type = studio
| Single 1 = [[Point of Know Return (song)|Point of Know Return]]
| Single 1 date = 1977
| Single 2 = [[Dust in the Wind]]
| Single 2 date = January 16, 1978
| Single 3 = Portrait (He Knew)
| Single 3 date = 1978
}}
}}
'''''Point of Know Return''''' is the fifth studio album by [[United States|American]] [[Rock music|rock]] band [[Kansas (band)|Kansas]], released in 1977. The album was reissued in remastered format on CD in 2002, and reissued as ''Playlist: Cool Songs''.

==Time of recording==

Singer/songwriter [[Steve Walsh (musician)|Steve Walsh]] left the group briefly. Years later, he would admit in an interview with nationally syndicated radio host Redbeard on the weekly rockumentary series ''[[In the Studio with Redbeard]]'' (edition #849, week of September 27, 2004 and again on the 30th Anniversary Episode for ''Point of Know Return'' in 2007) that he had been something of a [[prima donna]] at this point.

==Background==

The album is criticized for singles like "Point of Know Return/Point of Know Return." "Point of Know Return" was a later addition to the album. "Portrait (He Knew)" was written about Albert Einstein.<ref name="Redbeard">{{cite web|url=http://www.potsw.org/InTheStudio-POKR.html |title=In the Studio with Point of Know Return, featuring Kansas|date=September 7, 1992|publisher=In The Studio|accessdate=December 8, 2010 |archiveurl = http://web.archive.org/web/20041228111915/http://www.potsw.org/InTheStudio-POKR.html |archivedate = December 28, 2004}}</ref> In 1988, Livgren released an updated version of "Portrait (He Knew)" titled "Portrait II" as part of the album ''Prime Mover'' credited to his band [[AD (band)|AD]]. He changed the subject of the song from Einstein to Jesus Christ. "Closet Chronicles" is a [[Howard Hughes]] allegory.

"[[Dust in the Wind]]" is known for its sparse acoustic nature. The guitar line for the song was written by [[Kerry Livgren]] as a finger exercise for learning [[fingerpicking]]. His wife, Vicci, heard what he was doing, remarked that the melody was nice, and encouraged him to write lyrics for it.<ref name="Redbeard"/> Livgren was unsure whether his fellow band members would like it, since it was a departure from their signature style. However he did offer it to them, and the song was accepted and then recorded.<ref name="Redbeard"/>

==Reception==
{{Album ratings
| title =
| subtitle =
| state =

| MC =

| rev1 =[[AllMusic]]
| rev1Score ={{Rating|4|5}}<ref>[{{Allmusic|class=album|id=r10741|pure_url=yes}} Allmusic review]</ref>
| rev2 =
| rev2Score =
| rev3 =
| rev3Score =
| rev4 =
| rev4Score =
}}
''[[Rolling Stone]]'' gave the album a mixed review, saying that though the transition to shorter songs generally works, the lyrics are "a wan and ridiculous rehash of the bargain-basement exoticism employed by the British art-rock crowd." They commented that though the band lacks a virtuoso soloist, the band's ensemble playing is strong and purposeful.<ref>Swenson, John (January 12, 1978). [http://web.archive.org/web/20071106003537/http://www.rollingstone.com/artists/kansas/albums/album/259687/review/6210463/point_of_know_return Album review], ''[[Rolling Stone]]''. Archived from [http://www.rollingstone.com/artists/kansas/albums/album/259687/review/6210463/point_of_know_return Rolling Stone review].</ref>

''Point of Know Return'' would be Kansas' highest charting album in the US, peaking at #4 in January 1978, and would sell four million copies in the US and be certified Quadruple Platinum by the RIAA.

==Cultural impact==
{{main|Dust in the Wind#References in popular culture}} During a debate of greatest "Song 1 Side 1" in history among the lead characters in the movie ''[[High Fidelity (film)|High Fidelity]]'', [[Jack Black]]'s character criticizes one of [[John Cusack]]'s character's proposals as "too obvious, like 'Point of Know Return'/'Point of Know Return.'" The album cover has become an iconic image from the album rock era, appearing on the background of the set of [[VH1 Classic]], on tee shirts worn by characters in movies and on TV, and in other places.

In October 2009, a live version of the title track "Point of Know Return" was released as a downloadable add-on to the Harmonix video game ''[[Rock Band]]''. The title track has also been used in a 2009 [[State Farm]] commercial, in which a man sings along to it in his parked car.

In the 2008 movie ''The Rocker'', [[Rainn Wilson]]'s character 'Robert Fishman' is seen wearing a ''Point of Know Return'' T-shirt.

==Track listing==
{{Track listing
| all_writing = [[Kerry Livgren]] and [[Steve Walsh (musician)|Steve Walsh]] except where noted
| title1 = [[Point of Know Return (song)|Point of Know Return]]
| note1 = [[Phil Ehart]], [[Robby Steinhardt]], Walsh
| length1 = 3:13
| title2 = Paradox
| length2 = 3:50
| title3 = The Spider
| note3 = Walsh
| length3 = 2:05
| title4 = [[Portrait (He Knew)]]
| length4 = 4:38
| title5 = Closet Chronicles
| length5 = 6:31
| title6 = Lightning's Hand
| length6 = 4:24
| title7 = [[Dust in the Wind]]
| note7 = Livgren
| length7 = 3:28
| title8 = Sparks of the Tempest
| length8 = 4:18
| title9 = Nobody's Home
| length9 = 4:40
| title10 = Hopelessly Human
| note10 = Livgren
| length10 = 7:17
}}
{{Track listing
| collapsed = yes
| headline = Bonus tracks on 2002 CD reissue
| title11 = Sparks of the Tempest
| note11 = live
| length11 = 5:17
| title12 = Portrait (He Knew)
| note12 = remix
| length12 = 4:50
}}
The remix of Portrait marks the third time the song has been remixed. A remix appeared on the original 45 of the song. A different remix appeared on the bonus disc a Europe-only collection from the late 1990s.

==Personnel==
*[[Steve Walsh (musician)|Steve Walsh]] — organ, synthesizers, [[vibraphone]], piano, lead vocals (except on "Lightning's Hand"), backing vocals, additional percussion
*[[Robby Steinhardt]] — violins, viola, backing vocals, lead vocals on "Lightning's Hand", "Sparks of the Tempest" and "Hopelessly Human"
*[[Kerry Livgren]] — [[synthesizer]]s, piano, clavinet, electric and acoustic guitars, additional percussion
*[[Phil Ehart]] — [[drum kit|drums]], [[timpani]], chimes, additional percussion
*[[Dave Hope]] — [[Bass guitar|bass]]
*[[Rich Williams]] — electric and acoustic guitars, pedals

Note: The album's performing credits listed one joke "instrument" for each band member, such as "chain-driven gong," "autogyro," "Rinaldo whistling machine" and "Peabody chromatic inverter."

==Production==
*Producer: [[Jeff Glixman]]
*Engineers: Terry Becker, Jeff Glixman
*Mastering: [[George Marino]]
*Arranger: Kansas
*Art direction: Tom Drennon
*Cover art concept: Kansas
*Cover design: Rod Dyer
*Artwork: Peter Lloyd
*Artwork: Bob Maile

==Charts==
'''Album''' - [[Billboard magazine|''Billboard'']] (North America)
{| border=1 cellspacing=0 cellpadding=2 width="550px"
!align="left"|Year
!align="left"|Chart
!align="left"|Position
|-
|align="left"|1978
|align="left"|Pop Albums
|align="left"|4
|-
|}

'''Singles''' - ''Billboard'' (North America)
{| border=1 cellspacing=0 cellpadding=2 width="550px"
!align="left"|Year
!align="left"|Single
!align="left"|Chart
!align="left"|Position
|-
|align="left"|1977
|align="left"|"Point Of Know Return"
|align="left"|Pop Singles
|align="left"|28
|-
|align="left"|1978
|align="left"|"Dust In The Wind"
|align="left"|Pop Singles
|align="left"|6
|-
|align="left"|1978
|align="left"|"Portrait (He Knew)"
|align="left"|Pop Singles
|align="left"|64
|-
|}

==References==
{{reflist}}

{{kansasband}}

{{DEFAULTSORT:Point Of Know Return}}
[[Category:Kansas (band) albums]]
[[Category:1977 albums]]
[[Category:Albums produced by Jeff Glixman]]

Ballaghmore Castle

2013-11-03T07:08:22Z

Hazard-Bot: Robot: Added link to Wikivoyage

{{Refimprove|date=December 2009}}
{{Infobox settlement
|name = Ballaghmore
|other_name = {{pad top italic|an Bealach Mór}}
|settlement_type = Town
|image_skyline =
|image_caption =
|pushpin_map = Ireland
|pushpin_label_position = right
|pushpin_map_caption = Location in Ireland
|coordinates_display = inline,title
|coordinates_region = IE
|subdivision_type = Country
|subdivision_name = [[Republic of Ireland|Ireland]]
|subdivision_type1 = [[Provinces of Ireland|Province]]
|subdivision_name1 = [[Leinster]]
|subdivision_type3 = [[Counties of Ireland|County]]
|subdivision_name3 = [[County Laois]]
|established_title =
|established_date =
|unit_pref = Metric
|area_footnotes =
|area_total_km2 =
|population_as_of =
|population_footnotes =
|population_total =
|population_density_km2 = auto
|timezone1 = [[West European Time|WET]]
|utc_offset1 = +0
|timezone1_DST = [[Irish Standard Time|IST]] ([[Western European Summer Time|WEST]])
|utc_offset1_DST = -1
|latd = 52.969175
|longd = -7.67275
|coordinates_format = dms
|coordinates_type = dim:100000_region:IE
|elevation_footnotes =
|elevation_m =
|blank_name = [[Irish grid reference system|Irish Grid Reference]]
|blank_info = 
|website =
|footnotes =
}}
[[File:Ballaghmore Townland - geograph.org.uk - 848037.jpg|thumb|Ballaghmore Townland.|left]]
'''Ballaghmore''' (historically ''Bellaghmore'', from {{Irish place name|an Bealach Mór}})<ref>[http://www.logainm.ie/1165503.aspx Placenames Database of Ireland] (see archival records)</ref> is a small village situated on the western side of [[County Laois]], [[Republic of Ireland|Ireland]], southwest of [[Portlaoise]].

The main industry in Ballaghmore is farming. The village has a thriving community, with a [[hurling]] club, [[Kyle GAA]] and a local church. Family names from this area include Keogh, O'Grady, England, Gilmartin, Rigney, Phelan, Delaney and Maher.

It is mainly known for Ballaghmore Castle which is situated in a truly beautiful landscape, with excellent walking and mountain climbing opportunities. The caste derived its name from the Bealach Mor, the ancient road to [[Munster]] on which the castle is located.

Ballaghmore Castle was built in [[1480 in Ireland|1480]] by the Irish chieftain MacGiollaphadraig, translated as Son of the Servant of Patrick and nowadays conveniently called Fitzpatrick. Like many other castles Ballaghmore Castle was damaged by Cromwellian forces in [[1647 in Ireland|1647]] during the [[Plantations of Ireland|Laois-Offaly Plantation]].

A Mr Ely restored the castle in 1836 and found a hoard of gold on the land in the process. Mr Ely was killed by an angry farmer and never lived in the castle. The uninhabited building was used as granary and fell in disrepair until it was bought by its present owner in 1990.

==Sheela na Gig==
A very interesting feature of the Ballaghmore Castle is the [[Sheela na Gig]] which is carved in a corner stone of the outer front-facing wall.
Until the sixteenth century most Irish churches and castles were protected from evil by a statue or carving of Sheela-na-Gig. Sheela-na-Gig is depicted as a plain ugly, half-dead, woman with contorted face and fully exposed vagina. The emphasis on the female reproduction organs in combination with her deathlike appearance is associated with the cycle of birth and death. Sheela-na-Gig is known to be a Celtic fertility goddess, but that is about all we know. Scholars assume that Sheela-na-Gig is imported from Mesopotamia where the term nu-gug refers to some sort of sacred prostitutes.
Sheela-na-Gig figures were common in Ireland and Britain, but just a few of them survived the Victorian nineteenth century.

==References==
{{reflist}}

==See also==
* [[List of towns and villages in the Republic of Ireland|List of towns and villages in Ireland]]

{{County Laois}}

{{Wikivoyage|Ballaghmore}}

[[Category:Towns and villages in County Laois]]
[[Category:Townlands of County Laois]]

Architecture & Morality

2013-06-05T23:03:47Z

Hazard-Bot: Robot: Fixed citation style errors

{{Infobox album 
| Name = Architecture & Morality
| Type = studio
| Artist = [[Orchestral Manoeuvres in the Dark]]
| Cover = Omd_architecture.jpg
| Alt =
| Released = {{Start date|1981|11|8|df=yes}}<ref name=albumdetails>{{cite web |url=http://www.omd.uk.com/discography/albums/html/a_8.html |title=OMD DISCOGRAPHY <nowiki>|</nowiki> ALBUMS 1980 - 84 |publisher=Official OMD website |accessdate={{Start date|2009|11|4|df=yes}}}}</ref>
| Recorded = 1980–1981 at The Gramophone Suite, [[Liverpool]] and [[The Manor Studio]], [[Shipton-on-Cherwell]]<ref name=albumdetails/>
| Genre = [[Synthpop]]
| Length = 37:13
| Label = [[DinDisc]], [[Virgin Records|Virgin]]
| Producer = [[Orchestral Manoeuvres in the Dark]], [[Richard Manwaring]] and [[Mike Howlett]]
| Last album = ''[[Organisation (album)|Organisation]]'' (1980)
| This album = '''''Architecture & Morality''''' (1981)
| Next album = ''[[Dazzle Ships (album)|Dazzle Ships]]'' (1983)
| Misc =
{{Singles
| Name = Architecture & Morality
| Type = studio
| Single 1 = [[Souvenir (song)|Souvenir]]
| Single 1 date = {{Start date|1981|8|4|df=yes}}<ref name=releasedates>{{cite web |url=http://www.omd.uk.com/discography/html/index_79_84.html |title=OMD DISCOGRAPHY <nowiki>|</nowiki> SINGLES 1979 - 84 |publisher=Official OMD website |accessdate={{Start date|2009|11|4|df=yes}}}}</ref>
| Single 2 = [[Joan of Arc (song)|Joan of Arc]]
| Single 2 date = {{Start date|1981|10|9|df=yes}}<ref name=releasedates/>
| Single 3 = [[Maid of Orleans (The Waltz Joan of Arc)]]
| Single 3 date = {{Start date|1982|1|15|df=yes}}<ref name=releasedates/>
| Single 4 = She's Leaving
| Single 4 date = {{Start date|1982}} ([[Benelux]] only)<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.omd.uk.com/html/qa_recs.html |title=Q & A |publisher=Official OMD website |accessdate={{Start date|2009|11|4|df=yes}}}}</ref>
}}
}}
{{Album ratings
| rev1 = [[Allmusic]]
| rev1Score = {{Rating|4.5|5}}<ref>{{cite web |url={{Allmusic|class=album|id=r23964/review|pure_url=yes}} |title=Architecture & Morality > Review |publisher=[[Allmusic]] |first=Ned |last=Raggett |authorlink=Ned Raggett |accessdate={{Start date|2009|11|4|df=yes}}}}</ref>
| rev2 = [[BBC]]
| rev2Score = positive<ref name=bbc>{{cite web |url=http://www.bbc.co.uk/music/reviews/nb8c |title=Review of Orchestral Manoeuvres in the Dark - Architecture And Morality |publisher=[[BBC]] |first=Amar |last=Patel |authorlink= |date={{Start date|2007|4|20|df=yes}} |accessdate={{Start date|2009|11|4|df=yes}}}}</ref>
| rev3 = [[Pitchfork Media]]
| rev3Score = (8.7/10)<ref>{{cite web |url=http://pitchfork.com/reviews/albums/11793-orchestral-manoeuvres-in-the-darkorganisationarchitecture-morality/ |title=Album Reviews: Orchestral Manoeuvres in the Dark: Orchestral Manoeuvres in the Dark / Organisation / Architecture & Morality |publisher=[[Pitchfork Media]] |first=Scott |last=Plagenhoef |date={{Start date|2003|7|18|df=yes}} |accessdate={{Start date|2009|11|4|df=yes}}}}</ref>
| rev4 = ''[[Uncut (magazine)|Uncut]]''
| rev4Score = {{Rating|4|5}}<ref>{{cite journal |journal=[[Uncut (magazine)|Uncut]] |issue=August 2003 |page=119}}</ref>
}}

'''''Architecture & Morality''''' is the third [[album]] by [[Orchestral Manoeuvres in the Dark]], released in 1981. According to the album's credits, its title was suggested to the band by [[Martha Ladly]], formerly of [[Martha and the Muffins]], after the 1977 book ''Morality and Architecture'' by [[David Watkin (historian)|David Watkin]].<ref name=albumdetails/>

''Architecture & Morality'' featured three international hit singles and became the group's most commercially and critically successful album, selling over 3 million copies by 2009.<ref name=bbc/> In recent years, it has appeared in such listings as the book ''[[1001 Albums You Must Hear Before You Die]]'', ''[[The Guardian]]'''s "1000 Albums to Hear Before You Die"<ref>[http://www.guardian.co.uk/music/2007/nov/21/1000tohearbeforeyoudie2 1000 Albums to Hear Before You Die: Artists beginning with O]. ''[[The Guardian]]. 21 November 2007. Retrieved 28 August 2012.</ref> and [[Mojo (magazine)|''Mojo'']]'s "The 80 Greatest Albums from the 80's".<ref>[http://www.acclaimedmusic.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=297 The 80 Greatest Albums from the 80's]. ''[[Mojo (magazine)|Mojo]]''. 2007. Retrieved 23 October 2012. Archived at Acclaimed Music.</ref>

== Singles and album information ==
''Architecture & Morality'' yielded three singles, all of which charted in the UK Top 5: "[[Souvenir (song)|Souvenir]]" (#3), "[[Joan of Arc (song)|Joan of Arc]]" (#5), and "[[Maid of Orleans (The Waltz Joan of Arc)]]" (#4), a retitled "Joan of Arc (Maid of Orleans)". The singles were also highly successful on international charts.

Musically, the album was notable for making liberal use of the [[mellotron]], a mechanical tape-replay keyboard more commonly associated in Britain with [[progressive rock]] bands of the early 1970s than with the [[synthpop]] of the 1980s.

The artwork was produced by [[Peter Saville (designer)|Peter Saville]] and [[Brett Wickens]]. ''Architecture & Morality'' was released several times with varying artwork, most notably in yellow, blue and grey but even green versions are available. The original cover from 1981 is light yellow/orange in a die-cut sleeve.

The tenth through sixteenth tracks of the remastered album are bonus tracks and were [[A-side and B-side|B-sides]] from the album's three singles, except "Gravity Never Failed" which was out-take from the album sessions, originally intended to have been a single A-side, but not released until 1988, as the B-side of "[[Dreaming (OMD song)|Dreaming]]".

Remixes of "The Romance Of The Telescope" and "Of All The Things We've Made" appeared on OMD's next album, ''[[Dazzle Ships (album)|Dazzle Ships]]'', which was released in 1983.

All of the album's songs were included in the first part of the setlist on OMD's 2007 comeback tour.

== Track listings ==
All songs were written by [[Andy McCluskey]] and [[Paul Humphreys]], except where noted.

{{tracklist
| headline = Side one
| writing_credits = yes
| title1 = The New Stone Age
| writer1 = McCluskey
| length1 = 3:22
| title2 = She's Leaving
| length2 = 3:28
| title3 = [[Souvenir (song)|Souvenir]]
| writer3 = Humphreys, [[Martin Cooper (artist)|Martin Cooper]]
| length3 = 3:39
| title4 = Sealand
| length4 = 7:47
}}
{{tracklist
| headline = Side two
| writing_credits = yes
| title1 = [[Joan of Arc (song)|Joan of Arc]]
| writer1 = McCluskey
| length1 = 3:48
| title2 = [[Maid of Orleans (The Waltz Joan of Arc)|Joan of Arc (Maid of Orleans)]]
| writer2 = McCluskey
| length2 = 4:12
| title3 = Architecture and Morality (Instrumental)
| length3 = 3:43
| title4 = Georgia
| length4 = 3:24
| title5 = The Beginning and the End
| length5 = 3:48
}}

{{cot|2003: remastered CD}}
* UK: Virgin / DIDCDR12

{{tracklist
| writing_credits = yes
| title1 = The New Stone Age
| writer1 = McCluskey
| length1 = 3:22
| title2 = She's Leaving
| length2 = 3:28
| title3 = Souvenir
| writer3 = Humphreys, Cooper
| length3 = 3:39
| title4 = Sealand
| length4 = 7:47
| title5 = Joan of Arc
| writer5 = McCluskey
| length5 = 3:48
| title6 = Joan of Arc (Maid of Orleans)
| writer6 = McCluskey
| length6 = 4:12
| title7 = Architecture and Morality (Instrumental)
| length7 = 3:43
| title8 = Georgia
| length8 = 3:24
| title9 = The Beginning and the End
| length9 = 3:48
}}
{{tracklist
| writing_credits = yes
| headline = bonus tracks
| title10 = Extended Souvenir
| writer10 = Humphreys, Cooper
| length10 = 4:16
| title11 = Motion and Heart
| note11 = Amazon version
| length11 = 3:07
| title12 = Sacred Heart
| length12 = 3:30
| title13 = The Romance of the Telescope
| note13 = Unfinished
| length13 = 3:22
| title14 = Navigation
| length14 = 3:00
| title15 = Of All the Things We've Made
| length15 = 3:25
| title16 = Gravity Never Failed
| length16 = 3:24
}}
{{cob}}

{{cot|2007: remastered CD with DVD }}
* UK: Virgin / DIDCDRX12

;Disc One: CD
Same tracks as the remastered CD from 2003.

;Disc Two: DVD
{{tracklist
| headline = Promo videos
| writing_credits = yes
| title1 = Souvenir
| writer1 = Humphreys, Cooper
| note1 = promo video
| length1 =
| title2 = Joan of Arc
| note2 = Live at [[Top of the Pops]], 29-10-1981
| writer2 = McCluskey
| length2 =
| title3 = Maid of Orleans (The Waltz of Joan of Arc)
| writer3 = McCluskey
| note3 = promo video
| length3 =
}}
{{tracklist
| headline = Live at the [[Theatre Royal, Drury Lane]] 4-12-1981
| writing_credits = yes
| title4 = [[Electricity (OMD song)|Almost]]
| length4 =
| title5 = Mystereality
| length5 =
| title6 = Joan of Arc
| writer6 = McCluskey
| length6 =
| title7 = Motion and Heart
| length7 =
| title8 = Maid of Orleans
| writer8 = McCluskey
| length8 =
| title9 = Statues
| writer9 = McCluskey
| length9 =
| title10 = Souvenir
| writer10 = Humphreys, Cooper
| length10 =
| title11 = The New Stone Age
| writer11 = McCluskey
| length11 =
| title12 = [[Enola Gay (song)|Enola Gay]]
| writer12 = McCluskey
| length12 =
| title13 = Bunker Soldiers
| length13 =
| title14 = [[Electricity (OMD song)|Electricity]]
| length14 =
| title15 = She's Leaving
| length15 =
| title16 = Julia's Song
| writer16 = McCluskey, Humphreys, Julia Kneale
| length16 =
| title17 = Stanlow
| length17 =
}}
{{cob}}

==Personnel==
* [[Paul Humphreys]] – [[synthesiser]]s, [[piano]], [[mellotron]], [[Percussion instrument|acoustic]] and [[Electronic drum|electronic percussion]], [[organ (music)|organ]], [[Drum machine|rhythm programming]], [[radio]]s, [[melodica]] and [[Singing|vocals]]
* [[Andy McCluskey]] – synthesisers, mellotron, [[guitar]], [[bass guitar|bass]], rhythm programming, acoustic and electronic percussion, [[Horn (instrument)|reed horn]]s, organ and vocals
* [[Malcolm Holmes]] – [[drum kit|drum]]s, electronic and acoustic percussion, [[bass synthesizer|bass synthesiser]]
* [[Martin Cooper (artist)|Martin Cooper]] – [[saxophone]]
* Michael Douglas – synthesisers, piano and [[electronic organ]]

==Chart performance==
{|class="wikitable sortable"
!Chart (1981/1982)
!align="center"|Peak position
|-
|[[Netherlands Albums Chart]]<ref>{{cite web |url=http://dutchcharts.nl/showitem.asp?interpret=OMD+%28Orchestral+Manoeuvres+In+The+Dark%29&titel=Architecture+%26+Morality&cat=a |title=Chart Stats - Orchestral Manoeuvres In The Dark - Architecture And Morality |accessdate={{Start date|2009|11|7|df=yes}}}}</ref>
|align="center"|1
|-
|[[UK Albums Chart]]<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.chartstats.com/albuminfo.php?id=5523 |title=Chart Stats - Orchestral Manoeuvres In The Dark - Architecture And Morality |accessdate={{Start date|2009|11|7|df=yes}}}}</ref>
|align="center"|3
|-
|French Albums Chart<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.infodisc.fr/Albums_Detail.php |title=OMD (Orchestral Manoeuvres In The Dark) http://www.infodisc.fr/Albums_Detail.php |accessdate={{Start date|2009|11|7|df=yes}}}}</ref>
|align="center"|21
|-
|Austrian Albums Chart<ref>{{cite web |url=http://austriancharts.at/showitem.asp?interpret=OMD+%28Orchestral+Manoeuvres+In+The+Dark%29&titel=Architecture+%26+Morality&cat=a |title=OMD (Orchestral Manoeuvres In The Dark) - Architecture & Morality - austriancharts.at |accessdate={{Start date|2009|11|7|df=yes}}}}{{De icon}}</ref>
|align="center"|16
|-
|align="left"|Canadian Albums Chart<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.collectionscanada.gc.ca/rpm/028020-119.01-e.php?&file_num=nlc008388.6242a&type=1&interval=20&PHPSESSID=nnnmj6p1qiabice4ql54s7omf4 |title=http://www.collectionscanada.gc.ca/ OMD (Orchestral Manoeuvres In The Dark) - Architecture & Morality|accessdate={{Start date|2009|10|4|df=yes}}}}</ref>
|align="center"|18
|-
|New Zealand Albums Chart<ref>{{cite web |url=http://charts.org.nz/showitem.asp?interpret=OMD+%28Orchestral+Manoeuvres+In+The+Dark%29&titel=Architecture+%26+Morality&cat=a |title=charts.org.nz - OMD (Orchestral Manoeuvres In The Dark) - Architecture & Morality |accessdate={{Start date|2009|11|7|df=yes}}}}</ref>
|align="center"|22
|-
|Swedish Albums Chart<ref>{{cite web |url=http://swedishcharts.com/showitem.asp?interpret=OMD+%28Orchestral+Manoeuvres+In+The+Dark%29&titel=Architecture+%26+Morality&cat=a |title=swedishcharts.com - OMD (Orchestral Manoeuvres In The Dark) - Architecture & Morality |accessdate={{Start date|2009|11|7|df=yes}}}}</ref>
|align="center"|28
|-
|}

== References ==
{{reflist|2}}

== External links ==
* [http://www.omd.uk.com/html/song_am.html Album lyrics] at official OMD website

{{Orchestral Manoeuvres in the Dark}}

{{DEFAULTSORT:Architecture and Morality}}
[[Category:Orchestral Manoeuvres in the Dark albums]]
[[Category:1981 albums]]
[[Category:Albums produced by Mike Howlett]]
[[Category:Virgin Records albums]]

Aberdaron

2013-06-05T02:55:25Z

Hazard-Bot: Robot: Added link to Wikivoyage

{{Use British English|date=January 2013}}
{{Infobox UK place
|country = Wales
|latitude = 52.808
|longitude = -4.710
|official_name = Aberdaron
|welsh_name =
|population = 1,019
|population_ref = ''(2001)''
|static_image_name = Aberdaeron general view, Wales.JPG
|static_image_caption = The Tŷ Newydd Hotel on the beach at Aberdaron
|static_image_alt = 
|static_image_2_name =
|static_image_2_width =
|static_image_2_caption =
|static_image_2_alt = 
|unitary_wales = [[Gwynedd]]
|lieutenancy_wales = [[Gwynedd]]
|constituency_welsh_assembly = [[Dwyfor Meirionnydd (Assembly constituency)|Dwyfor Meirionnydd]]
|constituency_westminster = [[Dwyfor Meirionnydd (UK Parliament constituency)|Dwyfor Meirionnydd]]
|community_wales = Aberdaron
|postcode_district = LL53
|postcode_area = LL
|post_town = PWLLHELI
|dial_code = 01758
|os_grid_reference = SH1726
|cardiff_distance =
}}

'''Aberdaron''' is a [[community (Wales)|community]] and former [[fishing village]] at the western tip of the [[Llŷn Peninsula]] ({{lang-cy|Penrhyn Llŷn}}) in the [[Wales|Welsh]] county of [[Gwynedd]]. It lies {{convert|14.8|mi|km}} west of [[Pwllheli]] and {{convert|33.5|mi|km}} south west of [[Caernarfon]], and has a population of 1,019.<ref name="population">{{cite web|url=http://www.neighbourhood.statistics.gov.uk/dissemination/viewFullDataset.do?instanceSelection=03070&productId=779&$ph=60_61&datasetInstanceId=3070&startColumn=1&numberOfColumns=8&containerAreaId=790560|title=Census 2001: Parish Headcounts: Gwynedd|publisher= Office for National Statistics|accessdate=16 August 2009}}</ref> It is sometimes referred to as the "Land's End of Wales" ({{lang-cy|Pendraw'r Byd}}).<ref name="tourist"/> The community includes [[Bardsey Island]] ({{lang-cy|Ynys Enlli}}), the coastal area around Porthor, and the villages of Anelog, [[Llanfaelrhys]], Penycaerau, Rhoshirwaun, Rhydlios, Uwchmynydd and [[Y Rhiw]].<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.election-maps.co.uk/index.jsp|title= Ordnance Survey: ''Election Maps: Gwynedd'' |publisher=[[Ordnance Survey]]|accessdate=16 August 2009}}</ref>

The village was the last rest stop for pilgrims heading to Bardsey Island, the legendary ''"island of 20,000 saints"''. In the 18th and 19th centuries it developed as a shipbuilding centre and port. The mining and quarrying industries became major employers, and [[limestone]], [[lead]], [[jasper]] and [[manganese]] were exported, and there are the ruins of an old pier running out to sea at Porth Simdde, which is the local name for the west end of Aberdaron Beach. After the Second World War the mining industry collapsed, and Aberdaron gradually developed into a popular holiday resort.<ref name="penllyn"/> The beach was awarded a [[Seaside Award]] in 2008.<ref name="seaside award">{{cite web |url=http://www.gwynedd.gov.uk/gwy_doc.asp?cat=2706&doc=9177&Language=1 |publisher=Cyngor Gwynedd |title=Beautiful Beaches and Clean Seas |accessdate=16 August 2009}}</ref>

The coastal waters are part of Pen Llŷn a'r Sarnau Special Area of Conservation ({{lang-cy|Ardal Cadwraeth Arbennig Pen Llŷn a'r Sarnau}}), one of the largest marine designated sites in the United Kingdom.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.penllynarsarnau.co.uk/ |publisher=Ardal Cadwraeth Arbennig Pen Llŷn a'r Sarnau |title=Welcome to Pen Llŷn a'r Sarnau |accessdate=16 August 2009}}</ref> The coast itself forms part of the Aberdaron Coast and Bardsey Island Special Protection Area ({{lang-cy|Ardal Gwarchodaeth Arbennig Glannau Aberdaron ac Ynys Enlli}}),<ref name="protection"/> and was designated a [[Heritage Coast (England and Wales)|Heritage Coast]] in 1974.<ref name="assessment">{{cite web |url=http://www.ahne-llyn-aonb.org/content/uploads/pdf/anassessment.pdf |publisher=Llŷn Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty |title=Management Plan: An Assessment of the Area and its Resources |accessdate=16 August 2009}}</ref> In 1956 the area was included in Llŷn Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty ({{lang-cy|Ardal o Harddwch Naturiol Eithriadol Llŷn}}).<ref name="aonbs">{{cite web |url=http://www.aonb.org.uk/wba/naaonb/naaonbpreview.nsf/Web%20Default%20Frameset?OpenFrameSet&Frame=Main&Src=%2Fwba%2Fnaaonb%2Fnaaonbpreview.nsf%2F%24LU.WebHomePage%2F%24first!OpenDocument%26AutoFramed |publisher=The National Association for AONBs |title=Areas of Outstanding Natural Beauty: Llŷn AONB |accessdate=16 August 2009}}</ref><ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.ahne-llyn-aonb.org/about-2.aspx |publisher=Llŷn Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty |title=Llŷn AONB |accessdate=16 August 2009}}</ref> [[Conservation Areas]] have been created in Aberdaron, Bardsey Island and Y Rhiw;<ref name="assessment"/> and the area has been designated a Landscape of Historic Interest.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.cadw.wales.gov.uk/upload/resourcepool/Guide_to_Good_Practice_ENG7930.pdf |publisher=Cadw |title=Guide to Good Practice on Using the Register of Landscapes of Historic Interest in Wales in the Planning and Development Process |accessdate=16 August 2009}}</ref>

==Etymology==
''Aberdaron'' means "Mouth of the Daron River", a reference to the Afon Daron ({{lang-en|River Daron}}) which flows into Bae Aberdaron ({{lang-en|Aberdaron Bay}}) in the village.<ref>{{Harvnb|Mills|2003|p=1}}</ref>

==History==
Evidence from one of the most important archaeological sites in Wales, the [[Iron Age]] [[hillforts in Britain|hillfort]] at Castell Odo, on Mynydd Ystum, suggests that the area around Aberdaron was colonised early, as a wave of [[Celts|Celtic]] settlers explored the [[Irish Sea]] ({{lang-cy|Môr Iwerddon}}), probably around the 4th century BC. The construction was wholly defensive, but in later phases defence appears to have been less important, and in the last phase the fort's ramparts were deliberately flattened, suggesting there was no longer a need for defence. It appears that Aberdaron became a peaceful farming community. [[Ptolemy]] calls the [[Llŷn Peninsula]] ''"Ganganorum Promontorium"'' ({{lang-en|Peninsula of the Gangani}}); the [[Gangani]] were a tribe of Irish Celts, and it is thought there may have been strong ties with [[Leinster]].<ref>{{Harvnb|Sale|2006|p=55}}</ref>

[[File:Gruffydd ap Cynan.jpg|thumb|left|upright|After [[Gruffudd ap Cynan]], the [[Kingdom of Gwynedd|King of Gwynedd]], escaped imprisonment at [[Chester]], he sought sanctuary in St Hywyn's Church, and fled in the monks' boat.]]
The church at Aberdaron had the ancient privilege of [[Right of asylum|sanctuary]]. In 1094 [[Gruffudd ap Cynan]], the exiled [[Kingdom of Gwynedd|King of Gwynedd]], sought refuge in the church while attempting to recapture his throne; he escaped in the monastic community's boat to Ireland.<ref name="archaeological"/> He regained his territories in 1101, and in 1115 [[Gruffydd ap Rhys]], the exiled prince of [[Deheubarth]], took refuge at Aberdaron to escape capture by Gwynedd's ruler. [[Henry I of England]] had invaded Gwynedd the previous year, and faced by an overwhelming force, Gruffudd ap Cynan had been forced to pay homage and a substantial fine to Henry.<ref name="gazetteer"/> The King of Gwynedd, seeking to give up the exiled prince to Henry, ordered that the fugitive prince be dragged from the church by force, but his soldiers were beaten back by the local clergy; Gruffydd ap Rhys escaped under cover of night and fled south to join up with his supporters in [[Ystrad Tywi]].<ref name="topographical"/>

Following the conquest of Gwynedd, in 1284, [[Edward I of England|Edward I]] set about touring his new territories. He visited the castles at [[Conwy]] and [[Caernarfon]]. Court was held at [[Nefyn]], at which his new subjects were expected to demonstrate their loyalty; and he visited Aberdaron on his way to Bardsey Abbey.<ref>{{Harvnb|Koch|2006|p=703}}</ref>

After the [[English Civil War]], when the [[Roundhead|Parliamentarians]] under [[Oliver Cromwell]] introduced a strongly [[Protestant]] regime, [[Catholicism]] remained the dominant religion in the area. Catholics, who had largely supported the [[Cavalier|Royalist]] side, were often considered to be traitors and efforts were made to eradicate the religion. The persecution even extended to Aberdaron, and in 1657, Gwen Griffiths of [[Y Rhiw]] was summoned to the [[Quarter Sessions]] as a ''"papist"''.<ref name="thousand"/>

[[British Agricultural Revolution|Agricultural improvement]] and the [[Industrial Revolution]] came to Aberdaron in the 19th century. The [[Inclosure Acts|Inclosure (Consolidation) Act 1801]] was intended to make it easier for landlords to enclose and improve common land, introduce increased efficiency, bring more land under the plough, and reduce the high prices of agricultural production. Rhoshirwaun Common, following strong opposition, was enclosed in 1814; while the process was not completed in Aberdaron, Llanfaelrhys and Y Rhiw until 1861.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.heneb.co.uk/llynhlc/thematicessays/inclosures.html |publisher=Gwynedd Archaeological Trust |title=Parliamentary Inclosures |accessdate=16 August 2009}}</ref> On the industrial front, mining developed as a major source of employment, especially at Y Rhiw, where [[manganese]] was discovered in 1827.<ref name="penarfynydd"/>

During the Second World War, Y Rhiw played a vital role in preparations for the [[Normandy Landings]]. A team of electronic engineers set up an experimental [[ultra high frequency]] radio station, from where they were able to make a direct link to stations in [[Fishguard]] ({{lang-cy|Abergwaun}}) and [[Llandudno]]. The system employed a frequency that the German forces were unable to either monitor or jam, and was used in the 1944 landings.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.rhiw.com/hanes_pages/rhiw_snippets/snippets_4/snippets_4.htm |publisher=Rhiw |title=Snippets IV |accessdate=16 August 2009}}</ref>

==Governance==
[[File:WalesDwyfor1974.png|thumb|right|upright|Between 1974 and 1996, Aberdaron formed part of [[Dwyfor|Dwyfor District]].]]
Aberdaron, Bardsey Island, [[Bodferin]], Llanfaelrhys and Y Rhiw were [[Civil parishes in England|civil parish]]es in [[commote|Cwmwd Cymydmaen]] within [[Cantref Llŷn]], in [[Caernarfonshire]].<ref name="gazetteer">{{Harvnb|Hamilton1868|p=}}</ref> Following the [[Poor Law Amendment Act 1834]], parishes were grouped into "unions": Pwllheli Poor Law Union was created in 1837.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.archiveswales.org.uk/cgi-bin/anw/search2?coll_id=2952&inst_id=37&term=record?&L=0 |title=Caernarfon Record Office – Pwllheli Union Records|author= |publisher=Archives Wales |date= |accessdate=23 October 2010}}</ref> Under the [[Public Health Act 1848]] the area of the poor law union became Pwllheli Rural Sanitary District, which from 1889 formed a second tier of local government under Caernarfonshire County Council. Y Rhiw was absorbed into the smaller Llanfaelrhys in 1886;<ref>[http://www.ukbmd.org.uk/genuki/REG/districts/pwllheli.html "Pwllheli Registration District"]. Genuki. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref> and under the [[Local Government Act 1894]] the four remaining parishes became part of [[Llŷn Rural District]] ({{lang-cy|Dosbarth Gwledig Llŷn}}). Bodferin, Llanfaelrhys, and parts of [[Bryncroes]] and [[Llangwnnadl]], were amalgamated into Aberdaron in 1934.<ref>[http://www.visionofbritain.org.uk/relationships.jsp?u_id=10199980 "Aberdaron Civil Parish"]. A Vision of Britain Through Time. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref> Llŷn Rural District was abolished in 1974, and Bardsey Island was absorbed into Aberdaron to form a [[community (Wales)|community]] within [[Dwyfor|Dwyfor District]] ({{lang-cy|Dosbarth Dwyfor}}) in the new [[preserved counties of Wales|county]] of [[Gwynedd]];<ref>[http://www.ukbmd.org.uk/genuki/REG/districts/pwllheli%20and%20portmadoc.html "Pwllheli and Porthmadog Registration District"]. Genuki. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref> Dwyfor was abolished when Gwynedd became a [[unitary authority]] in 1996.<ref>[http://www.uk-legislation.hmso.gov.uk/RevisedStatutes/Acts/ukpga/1972/cukpga_19720070_en_41#sch4 "Local Government Act 1972: Revised: Schedule 4"]. Office of Public Sector Information. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref>

The community now forms an [[wards of the United Kingdom|electoral division]] of [[Gwynedd Council|Cyngor Gwynedd]] ({{lang-en|Gwynedd Council}}), electing one councillor; William Gareth Roberts of [[Plaid Cymru]] was re-elected in 2008.<ref>[http://www.gwynedd.gov.uk/gwy_doc.asp?cat=5773&doc=20638 "Dwyfor Ward Results"]. Cyngor Gwynedd. 1 May 2008. Aberdaron. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref> Aberdaron Community Council has 12 elected members, who represent three wards: Aberdaron De ({{lang-en|Aberdaron South}}), Aberdaron Dwyrain ({{lang-en|Aberdaron East}}) and Aberdaron Gogledd ({{lang-en|Aberdaron North}}). Ten [[Independent (politician)|Independent]] councillors and one from Plaid Cymru were elected unopposed in the 2008 election.<ref>[http://www.gwynedd.gov.uk/upload/public/attachments/924/STATEMENT_OF_PERSONS_NOMINATED1.doc "Community Councils: Statement of Persons Nominated"]. Cyngor Gwynedd. May 2008. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref>

From 1950, Aberdaron was part of [[Caernarfon (UK Parliament constituency)|Caernarfon]] parliamentary constituency.<ref>[http://www.guardian.co.uk/politics/constituency/779/caernarfon "Caernarfon: The 2005 general election"]. [[The Guardian]]. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref> In 2010, the community was transferred to [[Dwyfor Meirionnydd (UK Parliament constituency)|Dwyfor Meirionnydd]] constituency, represented by [[Elfyn Llwyd]] of Plaid Cymru. In the [[National Assembly for Wales]] it has, since 2007, formed part of [[Dwyfor Meirionnydd (Assembly constituency)|Dwyfor Meirionnydd]] assembly constituency, represented by [[Dafydd Elis-Thomas]], also of Plaid Cymru, who until 2011 was the [[Presiding Officer of the National Assembly for Wales|Presiding Officer]] of the assembly.<ref>[http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/shared/vote2007/welshasssembly_english/html/819.stm "Welsh Assembly Election 2007: Dwyfor Meirionnydd"]. [[BBC]]. 4 May 2007. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref> The constituency forms part of the [[National Assembly for Wales constituencies and electoral regions|electoral region]] of [[Mid and West Wales (National Assembly for Wales electoral region)|Mid and West Wales]].<ref>[http://www.bcomm-wales.gov.uk/fifth_review/finalrecs_nr_assemblyregions_e.pdf "Final Recommendations for the National Assembly for Wales Electoral Regions"]. Boundary Commission for Wales. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref>

==Geography==
[[File:Aberdaron-bridge-cyllyfelin.jpg|thumb|right|The bridge over the Afon Cyll-y-Felin was one of two built in 1823 in the centre of Aberdaron.]]
Aberdaron stands on the shore of Bae Aberdaron ({{lang-en|Aberdaron Bay}}) in a small valley at the confluence of the Afon Daron and Afon Cyll-y-Felin, between the headlands of Uwchmynydd to the west, and Trwyn y Penrhyn to the east.<ref name="archaeological">{{cite web |url=http://www.heneb.co.uk/llynhlc/llynhlcareasenglish/aberdaron3.html |publisher=Gwynedd Archaeological Trust |title=Aberdaron |accessdate=16 August 2009}}</ref> At the mouth of the bay stand two islands, Ynys Gwylan-Fawr and Ynys Gwylan-Fach, which together are known as Ynysoedd Gwylanod ({{lang-en|Seagull Islands}}).<ref name="penllyn">{{cite web |url=http://www.penllyn.com/1/compages/aberdaron/aberdaron.html |publisher=Pen Llŷn |title=Aberdaron Community Site |accessdate=16 August 2009}}</ref> The [[Llŷn Peninsula]] is a marine eroded platform, an extension of the [[Snowdonia]] ({{lang-cy|Eryri}}) massif, with a complex geology including [[Precambrian]] rocks.<ref name="aonbs"/> The coastline is rocky, with crags, [[scree]]s and low cliffs; heather covered hills are separated by valleys occupied by pastures.<ref name="protection">{{cite web |url=http://www.jncc.gov.uk/default.aspx?page=2058 |publisher=Joint Nature Conservation Committee |title=Aberdaron Coast and Bardsey Island |accessdate=16 August 2009}}</ref>

To the east, Mynydd Rhiw, Mynydd y Graig and Mynydd Penarfynydd form a {{convert|3|mi|km|adj=on}} long series of hog-back ridges of [[igneous]] rock that reaches the sea at Trwyn Talfarach. Above {{convert|800|ft|m}} the ridges are topped by hard [[gabbro]]. At its northern end Mynydd Rhiw rises to {{convert|1000|ft|m}}, the outcrop of Clip y Gylfinhir ({{lang-en|Curlew's Crag}}) looming above the village of [[Y Rhiw]]. Mynydd Penarfynydd is one of the best exposures of intrusive, layered, igneous rock in the British Isles.<ref name="penarfynydd">{{cite web |url=http://www.heneb.co.uk/llynhlc/llynhlcareasenglish/rhiw4.html |publisher=Gwynedd Archaeological Trust |title=Rhiw and Penarfynydd |accessdate=16 August 2009}}</ref>

[[File:Aberdaron - Islyn Bakery.JPG|thumb|left|upright|Islyn Bakery, built of [[Corrugated galvanised iron|corrugated iron]], is on the main road to [[Pwllheli]], which climbs steeply up the Daron valley.]]
East of Y Rhiw is an extensive low-lying plateau between {{convert|65|ft|m}} and {{convert|100|ft|m}} above sea level.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.heneb.co.uk/llynhlc/llynhlcareasenglish/neigwl5.html |publisher=Gwynedd Archaeological Trust |title=Neigwl |accessdate=16 August 2009}}</ref> The coastal rock is softer here, and the sea has been free to erode the rock and [[boulder clay]] to form sand, resulting in the spacious beach of Porth Neigwl ({{lang-en|Hell's Mouth}}).<ref name="coastal"/>

West of Aberdaron, four peaks rise above the rocky shoreline at Uwchmynydd. Mynydd Anelog stands {{convert|620|ft|m}} high, Mynydd Mawr at {{convert|490|ft|m}}, Mynydd y Gwyddel rises to {{convert|295|ft|m}} and Mynydd Bychestyn is {{convert|330|ft|m}} above sea level.<ref name="anelog">{{cite web |url=http://www.heneb.co.uk/llynhlc/llynhlcareasenglish/anelog8.html |publisher=Gwynedd Archaeological Trust |title=Mynydd Anelog, Mynydd Mawr, Mynedd y Gwyddel and Mynydd Bychestyn Enclosures |accessdate=16 August 2009}}</ref>

[[Bardsey Island]] ({{lang-cy|Ynys Enlli}}) lies {{convert|1.9|mi|km|0}} off Pen y Cil. The island is {{convert|0.6|mi|km|1}} wide and {{convert|1.0|mi|km}} long. The north east rises steeply from the sea to a height of {{convert|548|ft|m}}.<ref name="cycling">{{cite web |url=http://www.cyclingnorthwales.co.uk/pages/rte_aberdaron.htm |publisher=Cycling North Wales |title=Cycle Ride from Aberdaron |accessdate=16 August 2009}}</ref> The western plain, in contrast, comprises low, and relatively flat, cultivated farmland; in the south the island narrows to an [[isthmus]], connecting to a peninsula.<ref name="bardsey">{{cite web |url=http://www.heneb.co.uk/llynhlc/llynhlcareasenglish/Bardsey1.html |publisher=Gwynedd Archaeological Trust |title=Bardsey |accessdate=16 August 2009}}</ref>

The coast around Aberdaron has been the scene of many shipwrecks. In 1822, the Bardsey Island lighthouse tender was wrecked, with the loss of six lives; and in 1752, the schooner ''John the Baptist'', carrying a cargo of oats from [[Wexford]] to [[Liverpool]], was wrecked on the beach at Aberdaron.<ref name="daron"/> The sailing ship ''Newry'', with 400 passengers bound from [[Warrenpoint]] to [[Quebec City|Québec]], was wrecked at Porth Orion in 1880. The crew abandoned the passengers, leaving just the captain, ship's mate and one sailor, assisted by three local men, to lead 375 men, women and children to safety.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.rhiw.com/y_mor/shipwrecks/The_Newry.htm |publisher=Rhiw |title=The Newry |accessdate=16 August 2009}}</ref> A great storm swept the country on 26 October 1859 and many ships were lost: nine were wrecked at Porthor, seven of them with complete loss of life.<ref name="sea snippets">{{cite web |url=http://www.rhiw.com/hanes_pages/rhiw_snippets/snippets_about_the_sea.htm |publisher=Rhiw |title=Snippets About the Sea Around Llŷn |accessdate=16 August 2009}}</ref> On the south coast, vessels were often driven ashore at Porth Neigwl by a combination of south westerly gales and treacherous offshore currents.<ref name="Cantrell 2006 140">{{Harvnb|Cantrell|2006|p=140}}</ref> The ''Transit'' was lost in 1839, the ''Arfestone'' the following year, and the ''Henry Catherine'' in 1866.<ref name="sea snippets"/> The bay earned its English title, ''"Hell's Mouth"'', from its reputation for wrecks during the days of the sailing ship.<ref name="Cantrell 2006 140"/>

{{Weather box
|location = Abersoch
|metric first = yes
|single line = yes
|Jan high C = 8.0
|Feb high C = 8.0
|Mar high C = 9.0
|Apr high C = 11.0
|May high C = 14.0
|Jun high C = 17.0
|Jul high C = 18.0
|Aug high C = 19.0
|Sep high C = 17.0
|Oct high C = 14.0
|Nov high C = 11.0
|Dec high C = 9.0
|Jan low C = 3.0
|Feb low C = 3.0
|Mar low C = 4.0
|Apr low C = 5.0
|May low C = 8.0
|Jun low C = 10.0
|Jul low C = 12.0
|Aug low C = 12.0
|Sep low C = 11.0
|Oct low C = 9.0
|Nov low C = 6.0
|Dec low C = 4.0
|Jan precipitation mm = 83.8
|Feb precipitation mm = 55.9
|Mar precipitation mm = 66.0
|Apr precipitation mm = 53.3
|May precipitation mm = 48.3
|Jun precipitation mm = 53.3
|Jul precipitation mm = 53.3
|Aug precipitation mm = 73.7
|Sep precipitation mm = 73.7
|Oct precipitation mm = 91.4
|Nov precipitation mm = 99.1
|Dec precipitation mm = 94.0
|source 1 = The Weather Channel<ref>{{cite web |url=http://uk.weather.yahoo.com/climo/UKXX0193_c.html |publisher=The Weather Channel |title=Abersoch Weather |accessdate=17 August 2009}}</ref>
|date=August 2010
}}
 
Aberdaron is noted for low levels of air pollution. The Gwynedd State of the Environment Report in 2004 found levels of [[sulfur dioxide]], [[nitrogen dioxide]] and [[carbon monoxide]] very low, and [[Atmospheric particulate matter|particulates]] to be low.<ref name="assessment"/> It is one of the few sites in the United Kingdom for [[Teloschistes|golden hair lichen]], a striking bright orange lichen that is very sensitive to air pollution.<ref name="national"/> The climate is relatively mild and, because of the [[Gulf Stream]], frosts are rare in winter.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.llyn.info/info/ |publisher=Llŷn Info |title=Welcome to the Llŷn Peninsula |accessdate=16 August 2009}}</ref>

==Economy==
Sheep have been raised in the [[Llŷn Peninsula]] for over a thousand years, and Aberdaron has exported wool for many years. The main product locally was [[felt]], produced by soaking the cloth in water and beating it with large wooden paddles until the wool formed a thick mat which could be flattened, dried and cut into lengths.<ref name="wool">[http://www.rhiw.com/hanes_pages/gwlan/local_woollen_industry.htm "Local Woollen Industry"]. Rhiw. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref> There were two [[fulling|fulling mills]] on the Afon Daron, in addition to three [[gristmill|corn mills]],<ref name="archaeological"/> and [[lichen]] was gathered around [[Y Rhiw]], from which a grey dye was extracted.<ref name="wool"/> Arable crops consisted mainly of [[wheat]], [[barley]], [[oats]] and [[potatoes]].<ref name="topographical">{{Harvnb|Lewis|1849|pp=1–12}}</ref> The field boundaries date back several centuries and are marked by walls, ''cloddiau'' and hedgerows; important habitats for a variety of wildlife.<ref>[http://www.ahne-llyn-aonb.org/content/uploads/pdf/activities.pdf "Management Plan: Activities and Pressures"]. Llŷn Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref>

[[File:Aberdaron - Porth Neigwl 2.JPG|thumb|left|Two shipwrecked sailors were murdered on the beach at Porth Neigwl in 1742. Two local men from [[Y Rhiw]] were found guilty of the crime and hanged.]]
Wrecking and smuggling supplemented local incomes. In 1743 John Roberts and Huw Bedward from Y Rhiw were found guilty of the murder of two shipwrecked sailors on the beach at Porth Neigwl on 6 January 1742, and hanged; Jonathan Morgan had been killed by a knife thrust into the nape of his neck, and Edward Halesham, described as a boy, had been choked to death.<ref>[http://www.rhiw.com/hanes_pages/hells_mouth_1742/trial_notes.htm "Notes on the Murder at Rhiw: 6 January 1742"]. Rhiw. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref> A ship claimed to be from [[France]] unloaded illicit tea and brandy at Aberdaron in 1767, and attempted to sell its cargo to the locals;<ref name="daron"/> a Revenue cutter discovered salt being smuggled at Porth Cadlan in 1809; and a schooner en route from [[Guernsey]] to [[Scotland]] was reported to have offloaded lace, tea, brandy and gin at Y Rhiw in 1824.<ref>[http://www.rhiw.com/y_mor/smuggling/smuggling.htm "Smuggling in Llŷn"]. Rhiw. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref>

During the 19th century good quality [[limestone]] and a small amount of [[lead]] ore were quarried in the village.<ref name="gazetteer"/> [[Jasper]] was mined at Carreg;<ref>[http://www.edgeofwaleswalk.co.uk/section6.htm "Llangwnnadl to Mynydd Mawr"]. Edge of Wales Walk. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref> granite was quarried at Porth y Pistyll;<ref>[http://www.rhiw.com/y_mor/hanes_llongau_llyn/trwyn_dwmi_e.htm "Trwyn Dwmi"]. Rhiw. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref> and there was a brickworks at Porth Neigwl.<ref>[http://www.rhiw.com/hanes_pages/rhiw_snippets/snippets_8/snippets_8.htm "Snippets VIII"]. Rhiw. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref> The main source of income, however, was [[Atlantic herring|herring fishing]].<ref name="archaeological"/> A regular shipping service was operated to [[Liverpool]], exporting pigs, poultry and eggs; the vessels returned laden with coal for the neighbourhood.<ref name="topographical"/> Limestone was also imported and offloaded into the water at high tide, then collected from the beach when the tide went out. Lime was needed to reduce the acidity of the local soil, and [[lime kilns]] were built on the beaches at Porthor, Porth Orion, Porth Meudwy, Aberdaron and Y Rhiw to convert the limestone to [[quicklime]].<ref>[http://www.rhiw.com/y_mor/hanes_llongau_llyn/calch/lime.htm "The Lime Trade"]. Rhiw. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref> There was shipbuilding at Porth Neigwl,<ref>[http://www.rhiw.com/hanes_pages/rhiw_snippets/snippets_2/snippets_2.htm "Snippets II"]. Rhiw. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref> where the last ship, a [[sloop]] named the ''Ebenezer'', was built in 1841;<ref>[http://www.rhiw.com/y_mor/hanes_llongau_llyn/ebenezer/ebenezer.htm "Ebenezer"]. Rhiw. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref> and at Porthor, which came to an end with the building of a [[schooner]], the ''Sarah'', in 1842. Aberdaron's last ship, the sloop ''Victory'', had been built in 1792,<ref>[http://www.rhiw.com/y_mor/adeiladu_llongau/llyn.htm "Shipbuilding on Llŷn 2"]. Rhiw. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref> and the last ship to come out of Porth Ysgo had been another sloop, the ''Grace'', in 1778.<ref>[http://www.rhiw.com/y_mor/adeiladu_llongau/ship_building.htm "Shipbuilding in Llŷn"]. Rhiw. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref>

[[File:Aberdaron - Gwesty Tŷ Newydd.JPG|thumb|right|upright|The Tŷ Newydd Hotel is one of two hotels in Aberdaron that became popular among tourists seeking "the salubrious sea and mountain breezes".]]
The outbreak of the First World War resulted in a great demand for [[manganese]] as a strengthening agent for steel. Ore had been discovered at Y Rhiw in 1827, and the industry became a substantial employer in the village;<ref name="penarfynydd"/> over {{convert|113000|LT|t}} of ore were extracted between 1840 and 1945, and in 1906 the industry employed 200 people.<ref name="about">[http://www.rhiw.com/y_pentra/Rhiw_About.htm "About"]. Rhiw. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref>

Tourism began to develop after 1918. The first tourist guide to the village was published in 1910 and extolled the virtues of "the salubrious sea and mountain breezes";<ref>[http://www.rhiw.com/hanes_pages/aberdaron_1910/aberdaron_guide.htm "The First Tourist Guide"]. Rhiw. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref> in addition to the two hotels in the village, local farmhouses took in visitors, which provided an extra source of income.<ref>[http://www.rhiw.com/hanes_pages/Survey_1947/llyn_sociological.htm "1947"]. Rhiw. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref>

At the 2001 census, 59.4 per cent of the population were in employment, and 23.5 per cent were self-employed; the unemployment rate was 2.3 per cent; and 16.0 per cent were retired.<ref>[http://www.neighbourhood.statistics.gov.uk/dissemination/LeadTableView.do?a=3&b=323400&c=aberdaron&d=16&e=16&g=413213&i=1001x1003x1004&m=0&r=1&s=1248691139678&enc=1&dsFamilyId=107 "Census 2001: Economic Activity: Lower Layer Super Output Area: Gwynedd 014A"]. Office for National Statistics. 18 November 2004. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref> Of those employed, 17.7 per cent worked in agriculture; 15.8 per cent in the wholesale and retail trades; 10.7 per cent in construction; and 10.5 per cent in education.<ref>[http://www.neighbourhood.statistics.gov.uk/dissemination/LeadTableView.do?a=7&b=323400&c=aberdaron&d=16&e=16&g=413213&i=1001x1003x1004&o=1&m=0&r=1&s=1287810111972&enc=1&dsFamilyId=119 "Census 2001: Industry of Employment: Lower Layer Super Output Area: Gwynedd 014A"]. Office for National Statistics. 18 November 2004. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref> Those working from home amounted to 32.3 per cent; 15.2 per cent travelled less than {{convert|6.2|mi|km|0}} to their place of work; and 23.6 per cent travelled more than {{convert|25|mi|km|0}}.<ref>[http://www.neighbourhood.statistics.gov.uk/dissemination/LeadTableView.do?a=3&b=323400&c=aberdaron&d=16&e=16&g=413213&i=1001x1003x1004&m=0&r=1&s=1248691139678&enc=1&dsFamilyId=121 "Census 2001: Distance Travelled to Work: Lower Layer Super Output Area: Gwynedd 014A"]. Office for National Statistics. 18 November 2004. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref> The community is included in Pwllheli and Llŷn Regeneration Area and was identified in the Welsh Index of Multiple Deprivation 2005 as the electoral division in [[Gwynedd]] with least access to services; and was ranked 13th in Wales.<ref>[http://www.gwynedd.gov.uk/upload/public/attachments/992/Part_1b_Supporting_Document.pdf "Gwynedd Regeneration Strategy 2007–2013"]. Cyngor Gwynedd. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref> An agricultural census in 2000 recorded 33,562 sheep, 4,380 calves, 881 beef cattle, 607 dairy cattle, and 18 pigs; there were {{convert|310|acre|ha}} of growing crops.<ref>[http://www.ahne-llyn-aonb.org/content/uploads/pdf/appendices.pdf "Management Plan: Appendices"]. Llŷn Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref>

==Demography==
Aberdaron had a population of 1,019 in 2001,<ref name="population"/> of which 20.6 per cent were below the age of 16, and 18.7 per cent were over 64 years of age.<ref>[http://www.neighbourhood.statistics.gov.uk/dissemination/LeadTableView.do?a=3&b=801508&c=aberdaron&d=16&e=15&g=413213&i=1001x1003x1004&m=0&r=1&s=1248690472327&enc=1&dsFamilyId=781 "Census 2001: ''Parish Profile: People: Aberdaron Community"]. Office for National Statistics. 18 November 2004. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref> Owner occupiers inhabited 53.7 per cent of the dwellings; and 21.7 per cent were rented; 19.6 per cent were holiday homes.<ref>[http://www.neighbourhood.statistics.gov.uk/dissemination/LeadTableView.do?a=3&b=801508&c=aberdaron&d=16&e=15&g=413213&i=1001x1003x1004&m=0&r=1&s=1248690472327&enc=1&dsFamilyId=787 "Census 2001: "Parish Profile: Accommodation and Tenure: Aberdaron Community"]. Office for National Statistics. 18 November 2004. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref> Central heating was installed in 62.8 per cent of dwellings; but 2.4 per cent were without sole use of a bath, shower or toilet.<ref>[http://www.neighbourhood.statistics.gov.uk/dissemination/LeadTableView.do?a=3&b=323400&c=aberdaron&d=16&e=16&g=413213&i=1001x1003x1004&m=0&r=1&s=1248691139678&enc=1&dsFamilyId=157 "Census 2001: Amenities: Lower Layer Super Output Area: Gwynedd 014A"]. Office for National Statistics. 18 November 2004. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref> The proportion of households without use of a vehicle was 14.3 per cent; but 40.9 per cent had two or more.<ref>[http://www.neighbourhood.statistics.gov.uk/dissemination/LeadTableView.do?a=3&b=323400&c=aberdaron&d=16&e=16&g=413213&i=1001x1003x1004&m=0&r=1&s=1248691139678&enc=1&dsFamilyId=161 "Census 2001: Cars or Vans: Lower Layer Super Output Area: Gwynedd 014A"]. Office for National Statistics. 18 November 2004. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref> The population was predominantly white British; 97.8 per cent identified themselves as such;<ref>[http://www.neighbourhood.statistics.gov.uk/dissemination/LeadTableView.do?a=3&b=323400&c=aberdaron&d=16&e=16&g=413213&i=1001x1003x1004&m=0&r=1&s=1248691139678&enc=1&dsFamilyId=87 "Census 2001: Ethnic Group: Lower Layer Super Output Area: Gwynedd 014A"]. Office for National Statistics. 18 November 2004. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref> 71.9 per cent were born in Wales; and 26.9 per cent in England.<ref>[http://www.neighbourhood.statistics.gov.uk/dissemination/LeadTableView.do?a=3&b=323400&c=aberdaron&d=16&e=16&g=413213&i=1001x1003x1004&m=0&r=1&s=1248691139678&enc=1&dsFamilyId=85 "Census 2001: Country of Birth: Lower Layer Super Output Area: Gwynedd 014A"]. Office for National Statistics. 18 November 2004. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref>

{| class="wikitable" border="1" align="center"
! colspan="11" style="background:white"|'''Population change in Aberdaron'''
|- style="background:#9cc" '''table centered'''
|'''Year''' || '''1801''' || '''1811''' || '''1821''' || '''1831''' || '''1841''' || '''1851''' || '''1861''' || '''1871''' || '''1881''' || '''1891'''
|-
| Aberdaron || align="right"|1,141 || align="right"|1,442 || align="right"|1,234 || align="right"|1,389 || align="right"|1,350 || align="right"|1,239 || align="right"|1,266 || align="right"|1,247 || align="right"|1,202 || align="right"|1,170
|-
| Bardsey Island || || align="right"|71 || align="right"|86 || align="right"|84 || align="right"|90 || align="right"|92 || align="right"|81 || align="right"|84 || align="right"|132 || align="right"|77
|-
| Bodferin || align="right"|58 || align="right"|87 || align="right"|61 || align="right"|56 || align="right"|64 || align="right"|57 || align="right"|50 || align="right"|62 || align="right"|42 || align="right"|45
|-
| Llanfaelrhys || align="right"|224 || align="right"|246 || align="right"|262 || align="right"|258 || align="right"|236 || align="right"|255 || align="right"|208 || align="right"|198 || align="right"|186 || align="right"|490
|-
| Y Rhiw || align="right"|282 || align="right"|318 || align="right"|380 || align="right"|358 || align="right"|378 || align="right"|376 || align="right"|370 || align="right"|340 || align="right"|350 ||
|-
| '''Total''' || align="right"|'''1,705''' || align="right"|'''2,164''' || align="right"|'''2,023''' || align="right"|'''2,145''' || align="right"|'''2,118''' || align="right"|'''2,019''' || align="right"|'''1,975''' || align="right"|'''1,931''' || align="right"|'''1,912''' || align="right"|'''1,782'''
|- style="background:#9cc"
| '''Year''' || '''1901''' || '''1911''' || '''1921''' || '''1931''' || '''1951''' || '''1961''' || '''2001''' || ''' ''' || ''' ''' || ''' '''
|-
| Aberdaron || align="right"|1,119 || align="right"|1,106 || align="right"|1,075 || align="right"|983 || align="right"|1,275 || align="right"|1,161 || align="right"|1,019 || || ||
|-
| Bardsey Island || align="right"|124 || align="right"|53 || align="right"|58 || align="right"|54 || align="right"|14 || align="right"|17 || || || ||
|-
| Bodferin || align="right"|49 || align="right"|43 || align="right"|43 || align="right"|36 || || || || || ||
|-
| Llanfaelrhys || align="right"|499 || align="right"|495 || align="right"|449 || align="right"|385 || || || || || ||
|-
| Y Rhiw || || || || || || || || || ||
|-
| '''Total''' || align="right"|'''1,791''' || align="right"|'''1,697''' || align="right"|'''1,625''' || align="right"|'''1,458''' || align="right"|'''1,289''' || align="right"|'''1,178''' || align="right"|'''1,019''' || || ||
|-
| colspan="11" align="left" style="background:white;line-height:120%"|<ref>{{cite web|title=Enumeration Abstract: 1801: County of Caernarfon|url=http://www.histpop.org/ohpr/servlet/PageBrowser?path=Browse/Census%20%28by%20date%29&active=yes&mno=2&tocstate=expandnew&display=sections&display=tables&display=pagetitles&pageseq=479&zoom=4|work=Online Historical Population Reports|publisher=University of Essex|accessdate=20 November 2011}}</ref><ref>{{cite web|title=Observations and Enumeration Abstract: 1811: County of Caernarfon|url=http://www.histpop.org/ohpr/servlet/PageBrowser?path=Browse/Census%20%28by%20date%29&active=yes&mno=5&tocstate=expandnew&tocseq=6300&display=sections&display=tables&display=pagetitles&pageseq=first-nonblank|work=Online Historical Population Reports|publisher=University of Essex|accessdate=20 November 2011}}</ref><ref>{{cite web|title=Observations, Enumeration and Parish Register Abstracts: 1821: County of Caernarfon|url=http://www.histpop.org/ohpr/servlet/PageBrowser?path=Browse/Census%20%28by%20date%29&active=yes&mno=7&tocstate=expandnew&tocseq=6500&display=sections&display=tables&display=pagetitles&pageseq=first-nonblank|work=Online Historical Population Reports|publisher=University of Essex|accessdate=20 November 2011}}</ref><ref>{{cite web|title=Comparative Account of the Population: 1831: County of Caernarfon|url=http://www.histpop.org/ohpr/servlet/PageBrowser?path=Browse/Census%20%28by%20date%29&active=yes&mno=11&tocstate=expandnew&tocseq=5300&display=sections&display=tables&display=pagetitles&pageseq=first-nonblank|work=Online Historical Population Reports|publisher=University of Essex|accessdate=20 November 2011}}</ref><ref>{{cite web|title=Enumeration Abstract: 1841: County of Caernarfon|url=http://www.histpop.org/ohpr/servlet/PageBrowser?path=Browse/Census%20%28by%20date%29&active=yes&mno=17&tocstate=expandnew&tocseq=6800&display=sections&display=tables&display=pagetitles&pageseq=first-nonblank|work=Online Historical Population Reports|publisher=University of Essex|accessdate=20 November 2011}}</ref><ref>{{cite web|title=Population Tables: England and Wales: 1861: County of Caernarfon|url=http://www.histpop.org/ohpr/servlet/PageBrowser?path=Browse/Census%20%28by%20date%29&active=yes&mno=37&tocstate=expandnew&display=sections&display=tables&display=pagetitles&pageseq=206|work=Online Historical Population Reports|publisher=University of Essex|accessdate=20 November 2011}}</ref><ref>{{cite web|title=Population Tables: England and Wales: Registration Counties: 1871: Monmouthshire and Wales|url=http://www.histpop.org/ohpr/servlet/PageBrowser?path=Browse/Census%20%28by%20date%29&active=yes&mno=46&tocstate=expandnew&display=sections&display=tables&display=pagetitles&pageseq=578&zoom=3|work=Online Historical Population Reports|publisher=University of Essex|accessdate=20 November 2011}}</ref><ref>{{cite web|title=Historical Statistics: Population: Aberdaron|url=http://www.visionofbritain.org.uk/data_cube_page.jsp?data_theme=T_POP&data_cube=N_TOT_POP&u_id=10199980&c_id=10001043&add=N|work=A Vision of Britain Through Time|publisher=University of Portsmouth|accessdate=20 November 2011}}</ref><ref>{{cite web|title=Historical Statistics: Population: Bardsey Island|url=http://www.visionofbritain.org.uk/data_cube_page.jsp?data_theme=T_POP&data_cube=N_TOT_POP&u_id=10414209&c_id=10001043&add=N|work=A Vision of Britain Through Time|publisher=University of Portsmouth|accessdate=20 November 2011}}</ref><ref>{{cite web|title=Historical Statistics: Population: Bodferin|url=http://www.visionofbritain.org.uk/data_cube_page.jsp?data_theme=T_POP&data_cube=N_TOT_POP&u_id=10414362&c_id=10001043&add=N|work=A Vision of Britain Through Time|publisher=University of Portsmouth|accessdate=20 November 2011}}</ref><ref>{{cite web|title=Historical Statistics: Population: Llanfaelrhys|url=http://www.visionofbritain.org.uk/data_cube_page.jsp?data_theme=T_POP&data_cube=N_TOT_POP&u_id=10416747&c_id=10001043&add=N|work=A Vision of Britain Through Time|publisher=University of Portsmouth|accessdate=20 November 2011}}</ref><ref>{{cite web|title=Historical Statistics: Population: Y Rhiw|url=http://www.visionofbritain.org.uk/data_cube_page.jsp?data_theme=T_POP&data_cube=N_TOT_POP&u_id=10482215&c_id=10001043&add=N|work=A Vision of Britain Through Time|publisher=University of Portsmouth|accessdate=20 November 2011}}</ref>
|}

==Landmarks==

===Aberdaron===
[[File:Aberdaron - Y Gegin Fawr.JPG|thumb|upright|right|Y Gegin Fawr was built in the 13th century as a communal kitchen for pilgrims heading to [[Bardsey Island]]; it now serves as a tearoom.]]
Two stone bridges, Pont Fawr ({{lang-en|Large Bridge}}) and Pont Fach ({{lang-en|Small Bridge}}), built in 1823, cross the Afon Daron and Afon Cyll y Felin in the centre of Aberdaron. Beyond the bridges the road opens up to create a small market square.<ref name="archaeological"/> The Old Post Office was designed by [[Portmerion]] architect, [[Clough Williams-Ellis]].<ref name="tourist"/>

Y Gegin Fawr ({{lang-en|The Big Kitchen}}) was built in the 13th century as a communal kitchen where pilgrims could claim a meal on their way to [[Bardsey Island]].<ref>[http://www.aberdaronlink.co.uk/placestoeat/placestoeat.html "Places to Eat"]. Aberdaron and District Tourist Link. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref> Aberdaron was the last place on the route for rest and refreshment and pilgrims often had to wait weeks in the village for a chance to cross the treacherous waters of Bardsey Sound ({{lang-cy|Swnt Enlli}}).<ref name="tourist"/>

Next to the car park is a field, Cae y Grogbren ({{lang-en|Gallows Field}}), near which is a large red rock. In the Middle Ages, the abbot from the monastery on Bardsey Island visited the rock to dispense justice to local criminals; if they were found guilty, the wrongdoer would be hanged and thrown into Pwll Ddiwaelod ({{lang-en|The Bottomless Pool}}). The pool is a [[kettle lake]], formed at the end of the [[Ice Age]], when blocks of ice were trapped underground and melted to form round, deep pools.<ref>[http://www.bbc.co.uk/wales/northwest/sites/history/pages/bardseyredrock.shtml "Aberdaron's Rock"]. BBC. 31 March 2006. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref>

Above the village, on the Afon Daron, stands Bodwrdda, an early-16th-century stone-built house, which had a [[fulling]] mill adjacent; two large brick-built wings were added later, giving an imposing three-storey facade containing 17th-century windows. To the south, Penrhyn Mawr is a substantial late-18th-century gable-fronted farmhouse.<ref name="hinterland"/>

===Bardsey Island===
{{Main|Bardsey Island}}
[[File:Aberdaron - Carreg Bach, Ynys Enlli.jpg|thumb|right|The cottages on [[Bardsey Island]] ({{lang-cy|Ynys Enlli}}) have been restored by the Bardsey Island Trust ({{lang-cy|Ymddiriedolaeth Ynys Enlli}}), which bought the island in 1979.]]
[[Bardsey Island]] ({{lang-cy|Ynys Enlli}}), {{convert|1.9|mi|km}} off the mainland,<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.britannica.com/EBchecked/topic/53155/Bardsey-Island |title=Bardsey Island|publisher=Encyclopaedia Britannica on-line| accessdate=16 August 2009}}</ref> was inhabited in [[Neolithic]] times, and traces of hut circles remain. During the 5th century the island became a refuge for persecuted Christians,<ref name="saints">[http://www.bbc.co.uk/wales/northwest/sites/history/pages/bardseykingarthur.shtml "Island of 20,000 Saints"]. BBC. 31 March 2006. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref> and a small [[Celtic Christianity|Celtic]] monastery existed.<ref>[http://www.mysteriousbritain.co.uk/wales/gwynedd/folklore/bardsey-island.html "Bardsey Island"]. Mysterious Britain and Ireland. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref> [[Saint Cadfan]] arrived from [[Brittany]] in 516 and, under his guidance St Mary's Abbey was built.<ref name="pilgrim">{{cite web |url=http://www.bbc.co.uk/wales/northwest/sites/faith/pages/pilgrim_llyn_north.shtml?7 |publisher=BBC |title=Pilgrims: The Northern Path |accessdate=16 August 2009}}</ref> For centuries the island was important as ''"the holy place of burial for all the bravest and best in the land"''. Bards called it ''"the land of indulgences, absolution and pardon, the road to Heaven, and the gate to Paradise"'';<ref name="saints"/> and in medieval times three pilgrimages to Bardsey Island were considered to be of equivalent benefit to the soul as one to Rome.<ref name="aberdaron">{{cite web |url=http://www.aberdaronlink.co.uk/placestovisit/visit.html |publisher=Aberdaron and District Tourist Link |title=Places to Visit |accessdate=16 August 2009}}</ref> In 1188 the abbey was still a Celtic institution, but by 1212 it belonged to the [[Augustinian]]s.<ref name="archaeology"/> Many people still walk to Aberdaron and Uwchmynydd each year in the footsteps of the saints,<ref name="tourist">{{cite web |url=http://www.aberdaronlink.co.uk/about/about.html |publisher=Aberdaron and District Tourist Link |title=Aberdaron |accessdate=16 August 2009}}</ref> although today only ruins of the old abbey's 13th-century bell tower remain.<ref name="archaeology">{{cite web|url=http://www.ucl.ac.uk/archaeology/cisp/database/site/bards.html |publisher=University College London Institute of Archaeology |title=Bardsey Island |accessdate=16 August 2009}}</ref> A [[Celtic cross]] amidst the ruins commemorates the 20,000 saints reputed to be buried on the island.<ref>[http://www.edgeofwaleswalk.co.uk/history.htm "History"]. Edge of Wales Walk. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref>

The island was declared a [[National Nature Reserve]] in 1986,<ref>[http://www.bbc.co.uk/wales/northwest/outdoors/placestogo/reserves/bardsey.shtml "Bardsey Island"]. BBC. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref> and is part of Aberdaron Coast and Bardsey Island Special Protection Area ({{lang-cy|Ardal Gwarchodaeth Arbennig Glannau Aberdaron ac Ynys Enlli}}). It is now a favourite [[bird-watching]] location, on the migration routes of thousands of birds. Bardsey Bird and Field Observatory ({{lang-cy|Gwylfa Maes ac Adar Ynys Enlli}}), founded in 1953, nets and rings 8,000 birds each year to understand their migration patterns.<ref name="haven">[http://www.bbc.co.uk/wales/northwest/sites/bardsey/pages/bardseywildlife.shtml "Wildlife Haven"]. BBC. 3 May 2007. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref>

[[File:P puffinus griseus.jpg|thumb|left|Each year 7,000 pairs of [[Manx shearwaters]] come ashore under cover of darkness to nest on [[Bardsey Island]].]]
Bardsey Island Trust ({{lang-cy|Ymddiriedolaeth Ynys Enlli}}) bought the island in 1979,<ref name="bardsey"/> after an appeal supported by the [[Church in Wales]] ({{lang-cy|Yr Eglwys yng Nghymru}}) and many Welsh academics and public figures. The trust is financed through membership subscriptions, grants and donations, and is dedicated to protecting the wildlife, buildings and archaeological sites of the island; promoting its artistic and cultural life; and encouraging people to visit as a place of natural beauty and pilgrimage.<ref>[http://www.enlli.org/english/the_trust/thetrust.htm "The Trust"]. Bardsey Island Trust. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref> When, in 2000, the trust advertised for a tenant for the {{convert|440|acre|ha}} sheep farm on the island, they had 1,100 applications.<ref>{{Harvnb|Hole|O'Carroll|2007|p=246}}</ref> The tenancy is now held by the [[Royal Society for the Protection of Birds]];<ref>[http://www.rspb.org.uk/news/details.asp?id=tcm:9-189371 "News: Wildlife Wins on Bardsey Island"]. Royal Society for the Protection of Birds. 14 May 2008. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref> and the land is managed to maintain the natural habitat. [[Oats]], [[turnips]] and [[rutabaga|swedes]] are grown; [[goats]], [[domestic duck|ducks]], [[domestic goose|geese]] and [[chickens]] kept; and there is a mixed flock of [[domestic sheep|sheep]] and [[Welsh Black|Welsh black cattle]].<ref>[http://www.enlli.org/english/the_island/farming.htm "Agriculture"]. Bardsey Island Trust. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref>

===Llanfaelrhys===
{{Main|Llanfaelrhys}}
[[File:Aberdaron - Nant-y-Gadwen Manganese Mine.jpg|thumb|right|The manganese mine at Nant y Gadwen employed 200 people in 1906. The ore was used as a strengthening agent for steel.]]
Porth Ysgo, owned by the [[National Trust for Places of Historic Interest or Natural Beauty|National Trust]], is reached by a steep slope from [[Llanfaelrhys]], {{convert|3.3|mi|km}} east of Aberdaron, past a disused manganese mine in Nant y Gadwen;<ref name="tourist"/> the mine closed in 1927, and produced {{convert|45644|LT|t}} in its lifetime.<ref>[http://www.mindat.org/loc-145126.html "Nant Mine"]. Mindat. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref> Where the path from Ysgo reaches the beach, a waterfall, Pistyll y Gaseg, tumbles over the cliff. At the eastern end of the bay is Porth Alwm, where the stream from Nant y Gadwen flows into the sea.<ref>[http://argrwydr.com/pdf/WalkK.pdf "Penarfynydd"]. Cymunedau’n Gyntaf Pen Llŷn. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref> The south-facing beach is composed of fine, firm sand.<ref>{{Harvnb|Cantrell|2006|p=134}}</ref>

To the west, [[King Arthur]]'s last battle against his arch enemy, [[Mordred]], was supposedly fought in the fields around Porth Cadlan. Offshore lies a rock, Maen Gwenonwy, named after Arthur's sister.<ref name="cantrell">{{Harvnb|Cantrell|2006|p=132}}</ref>

Lladron Maelrhys are two large stones on the border between Llanfaelrhys and [[Y Rhiw]]. It is claimed that, years ago, thieves broke into St Maelrhys Church, intent on stealing money. Caught in the act, they fled for their lives but were caught as they approached Y Rhiw, and killed on the spot; the stones mark their burial place.<ref>[http://www.rhiw.com/pobol/rowland_williams/rowland_willlam_03.htm "Recollections by Rowland Williams: April 1946"]. Rhiw. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref> Another version claims that as they crossed the parish boundary they were turned to stone for their sacrilege.<ref>{{Harvnb|Cantrell|2006|p=136}}</ref>

===Porthor===
[[File:Aberdaron - Porthor.JPG|thumb|right|The beach at Porthor is part of a {{convert|420|acre|ha|adj=on}} coastal estate owned by the [[National Trust for Places of Historic Interest or Natural Beauty|National Trust]].]]
Porthor ({{lang-en|Whistling Sands}}) is a [[cove]] {{convert|3.2|mi|km}} north of Aberdaron that has smooth white sand; when dry, the sand whistles, or squeaks, underfoot.<ref>[http://www.gwynedd.gov.uk/gwy_doc.asp?cat=2706&doc=12601&Language=1 "The Coast"]. Cyngor Gwynedd. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref> The crescent-shaped beach is backed by steep cliffs of relatively hard rock, from which the cove has been sculpted by the rough seas. The bay is the centre of a [[National Trust for Places of Historic Interest or Natural Beauty|National Trust]] estate which consists of {{convert|420|acre|ha}} of shoreline, headland and farmland, and includes Mynydd Carreg and Mynydd Anelog.<ref name="porthor">[http://www.nationaltrust.org.uk/main/w-coastal_walk-porthor.pdf "Coastal Walk: Porthor to Mynydd Anelog"]. The National Trust. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref>

On the hill summits that dot the headlands are [[Calluna|heather]] and [[Ulex europaeus|gorse]], shaped by the prevailing wind; [[Armeria maritima|thrift]] and wild [[Thymus serpyllum|thyme]] thrive on the acidic soil. The cliffs are a stronghold of the [[Red-billed Chough|chough]], and a nesting place for [[razorbills]] and [[common guillemot|guillemots]]. On the lower rocks, in reach of the waves, are plentiful [[lichens]], [[seaweeds]], [[sponges]], [[limpets]] and [[barnacles]].<ref>[http://www.gwynedd.gov.uk/upload/public/attachments/890/Rhan5Llangwnnadl_i_Plas_yn_Rhiw1.pdf "Llŷn Coastal Path: Llangwnnadl to Plas yn Rhiw"]. Cyngor Gwynedd. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref>

[[File:Cottages at Anelog, Wales.jpg|thumb|left|The tombstones of two 5th-century priests were discovered at Anelog.]]
To the south are Dinas Bach and Dinas Mawr, twin peninsulas formed from weathered [[pillow lavas]] 600 million years old, thought to have been early fortified sites from the [[Iron Age]]. [[Black-legged Kittiwake|Kittiwakes]], [[Great Cormorant|cormorants]] and [[European Shag|shags]] can be seen on the cliffs, while farm birds such as the [[yellowhammer]] frequent the gorse.<ref name="porthor"/> On Mynydd Anelog, experimental plots have been marked out to monitor different methods of managing heather to discover the best way the habitat can be conserved for the future.<ref name="porthor"/>

North of Porthor is Porth Iago, a south-facing narrow inlet and rocky cove, which has a small beach and steep cliffs.<ref name="cycling"/>

===Rhoshirwaun===
[[File:Aberdaron - Capel Saron, Rhoshirwaun.jpg|thumb|right|Capel Saron at Rhoshirwaun was opened in 1903 by the [[Calvinistic Methodists]].]]
Rhoshirwaun lies {{convert|2.1|mi|km}} to the north east of Aberdaron, and was formerly a [[marsh]]y area.<ref name="hinterland">[http://www.heneb.co.uk/llynhlc/llynhlcareasenglish/aberdaron2.html "Aberdaron Hinterland"]. Gwynedd Archaeological Trust. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref> It provided fuel from peat cuttings, pasture for animals and accommodated squatters, mainly fishermen, who had encroached on the common with the tacit acceptance of the community. An [[Inclosure Acts|inclosure act]] was drawn up in 1802, designed to remove all squatters who had been there less than 20 years. Resistance to the evictions was fierce and was only suppressed by a contingent of [[dragoons]]. The act was finally applied in 1814; new roads were built across the moor; boundaries were established; allotments allocated; and wetland reclaimed.<ref name="rhoshirwaun">[http://www.heneb.co.uk/llynhlc/llynhlcareasenglish/rhoshirwaun9.html "Rhoshirwaun and Bryncroes"]. Gwynedd Archaeological Trust. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref>

Castell Odo, on Mynydd Ystum, is one of Europe's earliest Iron Age Settlements, standing {{convert|480|ft|m}} above sea level. The [[hillforts in Britain|hillfort]], {{convert|165|ft|m}} in diameter,<ref>[http://www.coflein.gov.uk/en/site/95305/details/CASTELL+ODO/ "Castell Odo"]. Royal Commission on the Ancient and Historical Monuments of Wales. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref> has visible traces of eight circular huts; pottery found on the site dates from 425 BC.<ref name="tourist"/> Legend has it that a giant, Odo Gawr, is buried under a cairn of stones on the summit; nearby is a huge rock known as Carreg Samson, supposedly thrown from Uwchmynydd by [[Samson]]. The holes in the rock are said to be the imprint of his fingers; a pot of gold reputedly lies underneath.<ref name="daron">[http://argrwydr.com/pdf/WalkJ.pdf "Daron"]. Cymunedau’n Gyntaf Pen Llŷn. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref>

To the east of the village, Felin Uchaf is an educational centre exploring ways of living and working in partnership with the environment. Developed on a redundant farm, it provides residential courses in rural skills and sustainable agriculture. A traditional [[Iron Age]] roundhouse has been built on the site.<ref>[http://www.felinuchaf.org/ "Education, Environment, Culture and Community: A Visionary Social Enterprise"]. Felin Uchaf. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref>

===Uwchmynydd===
[[File:Aberdaron - Coastguard Lookout, Mynydd Mawr.jpg|thumb|right|The Coastguard lookout on Mynydd Mawr now houses a mural created by local children.]]
Uwchmynydd, {{convert|1.8|mi|km}} to the south west of Aberdaron, has a long history of human settlement. [[Mesolithic]] flints have been found in the area, and a Neolithic stone axe was discovered on Mynydd Mawr. Hut circles are visible on the summits, and part of a [[Ancient Rome|Roman]] anchor was recovered off Trwyn Bychestyn.<ref name="anelog"/>

At Mynydd Mawr the [[picnic|picnic site]] has views which, on a fine day, take in [[Cardigan Bay]] ({{lang-cy|Bae Ceredigion}}), [[Bardsey Island]] and the [[Wicklow Mountains]] ({{lang-ga|Sléibhte Chill Mhantáin}}); at night, [[South Stack|South Stack Lighthouse]] ({{lang-cy|Goleudy Ynys Lawd}}) is visible in the distance.<ref name="tourist"/> A road to the summit, owned by the [[National Trust for Places of Historic Interest or Natural Beauty|National Trust]], was built during the Second World War to provide access to the heights, where men were posted to give early warning to [[Liverpool]] of [[Luftwaffe]] air raids.<ref name="gyntaf">[http://argrwydr.com/pdf/WalkH.pdf "Anelog"]. Cymunedau’n Gyntaf Pen Llŷn. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref> The former [[Her Majesty's Coastguard|Coastguard]] lookout point, manned for almost 80 years before becoming redundant in 1990, provides views over Bardsey Sound to the island. The hut contains an exhibition to the natural history of the area, and a mural created by local children.<ref name="mural">[http://www.craflwyn.org/iaith/saesneg/news.htm "Children’s New Mural at Llŷn’s Old Coastguard Hut"]. The National Trust. 2 April 2007. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref>

The headland at Braich y Pwll is the only known location on the British mainland of the [[Tuberaria guttata|spotted rock rose]],<ref name="national">[http://www.nationaltrust.org.uk/main/w-global/w-localtoyou/w-wales/w-wales-welsh_countryside/w-wales-llyn-peninsula.htm "The Llŷn Peninsula"]. The National Trust. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref> which produces bright yellow petals that last only one day.<ref name="mural"/> The coast here has open grass heath land and mountain, giving way to rugged sea cliffs and coves. There is a profusion of wildlife, and it is an ideal vantage point to watch the spring and autumn bird migrations. [[Red-billed Chough|Chough]]s, [[peregrine falcon]]s, [[common kestrel|kestrels]], [[Atlantic puffin|puffins]], [[European stonechat|stonechats]], [[common guillemot|guillemots]] and [[Manx shearwater]]s can be seen, and dolphins, porpoises and seals can be spotted in the water.<ref name="tourist"/>

[[File:Aberdaron - Porth Meudwy.jpg|thumb|left|Porth Meudwy is the traditional embarkation point for pilgrims heading to [[Bardsey Island]].]]
Above the sea cliffs are the remains of Capel Mair ({{lang-en|St Mary's Chapel}}),<ref name="interest">[http://www.gwynedd.gov.uk/upload/public/attachments/845/intro1.pdf "Llŷn Coastal Path: Some Places of Interest Along the Path"]. Cyngor Gwynedd. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref> where it was customary for pilgrims to invoke the protection of the [[Virgin Mary]] before making the dangerous crossing to Bardsey Island. At the foot of Mynydd Mawr is Ffynnon Fair ({{lang-en|St Mary's Well}}), the last stop for pilgrims crossing to the island; the well is a freshwater spring which is covered twice daily by the sea, emerging from the ebbing tide with crystal clear water.<ref name="tourist"/>

Cwrt ({{lang-en|Court}}), now a large farm, was the administrative centre of Bardsey Abbey's mainland estates, and was known as the "Court of Bardsey".<ref name="hinterland"/> The steepest cliffs in the [[Llŷn Peninsula]] are at Y Parwyd, the scene of a local ghost story. In 1794 a newly married couple moved into a cottage nearby. Within a few years they were disturbed by a phantom, but when they read a verse from the Bible, the phantom would retreat towards Y Parwyd and hover over the cliff edge before disappearing; the couple finally moved to [[Bodferin]]. In 1801 a ship pilot was put ashore on the rocks below the cliffs. Although very drunk, he managed to climb the cliff face and, reaching the top, fell asleep in a sheep pen. In the early morning, he awoke and, still drunk, headed for home; he walked in the wrong direction, however, and disappeared over the cliff edge into the sea.<ref name="parwyd">[http://argrwydr.com/pdf/WalkI.pdf "Parwyd"]. Cymunedau’n Gyntaf Pen Llŷn. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref>

The traditional embarkation point for pilgrims crossing to Bardsey Island was at Porth Meudwy ({{lang-en|Hermit's Cove}}), now a [[lobster fishing]] cove. Further south is Porth y Pistyll, which has good views of Ynysoedd Gwylanod, home to puffin and guillemot colonies; and Pen y Cil, where the [[Precambrian]] [[pillow lavas]] are exposed, revealing how they have been contorted over time.<ref name="mynydd">[http://www.nationaltrust.org.uk/main/w-coastal_walk-aberdaron_mynydd.pdf "Coastal Walk: Aberdaron to Mynydd Mawr"]. The National Trust. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref>

===Y Rhiw===
[[File:Bwlch y Garreg Wen cottage on Gallt y Rhiw - geograph.org.uk - 608372.jpg|thumb|right|Bwlch y Garreg Wen at [[Y Rhiw]], built in 1731, is a ''croglofft'' cottage, a type of agricultural worker's house found in [[Llŷn Peninsula|Llŷn]].]]
{{Main|Y Rhiw}}
The mountain-top hamlet of Y Rhiw is {{convert|3.9|mi|km}} to the east. There are fine views of [[Llŷn Peninsula|Llŷn]] towards [[Snowdonia]] ({{lang-cy|Eryri}}). On the slopes of Mynydd Rhiw is a late [[Stone Age]] burial chamber,<ref name="coastal">[http://www.gwynedd.gov.uk/upload/public/attachments/890/Rhan_6_______Plas_yn_Rhiw_i_Llanbedrog1.pdf "Llŷn Coastal Path: Plas yn Rhiw to Llanbedrog"]. Cyngor Gwynedd. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref> and Neolithic quarries.<ref>[http://www.rhiw.com/hanes_02/axe_factory/mynydd_rhiw_axe_factory.htm "Mynydd Rhiw Axe Factory"]. Rhiw. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref> Nearby on Mynydd y Graig are three [[hillforts in Britain|hillforts]], several hut circles and terraced fields that are thought to date from the late [[Iron Age]];<ref name="penarfynydd"/> in 1955 a [[Bronze Age]] [[cinerary urn]] was uncovered in the village.<ref>[http://www.rhiw.com/hanes_pages/rhiw_urn/urn.htm "Bronze Age Urn"]. Rhiw. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref>

[[Plas yn Rhiw]], owned by the [[National Trust for Places of Historic Interest or Natural Beauty|National Trust]], is an early-17th-century house that was restored by the Keating sisters in 1939, with advice from [[Clough Williams-Ellis]]. It is believed that the house is on or near the site of an earlier defended house, built by Meirion Goch in the 10th century to prevent incursions by [[Vikings]] into Porth Neigwl.<ref name="thousand">[http://www.rhiw.com/hanes_pages/plas_yn_rhiw.htm "Plas yn Rhiw: The First Thousand Years"]. Rhiw. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref>

==Transport==
Aberdaron lies at the western end of the [[B roads in Zone 4 of the Great Britain numbering scheme|B4413 road]]. The road runs east to [[Llanbedrog]], where it connects with the [[A499 road|A499]] [[Pwllheli]] to [[Abersoch]] road.<ref>{{cite web|title=Election Maps: Gwynedd|url=http://www.election-maps.co.uk/electmaps.jsf|publisher=Ordnance Survey|accessdate=21 November 2011}}</ref>

Buses are provided by two companies. Service 17 is operated by Nefyn Coaches, with six Monday to Saturday return journeys on the Pwllheli–Llanbedrog–[[Mynytho]]–Nanhoron–[[Botwnnog]]–[[Sarn Meyllteyrn]]–Penygroeslon–Rhoshirwaun–Aberdaron route. Two of the Aberdaron bound journeys divert through Bryn-croes. [[Arriva Buses Wales]] provide a late night return journey on Saturdays. Service 17 is supplemented by Nefyn Coaches service 17b, running return journeys twice a day, Monday to Saturday, largely over the same route, but with diversions to serve [[Penllech]] and Llangwnnad towards Aberdaron, or Penycaerau and [[Y Rhiw]] heading back to Pwllheli.<ref>{{cite web|title=Nefyn Coaches and Arriva: 17 and 17b: Pwllheli–Aberdaron|url=http://www.gwynedd.gov.uk/upload/public/attachments/1112/17_17B_Pwllheli__Aberdaron.pdf|publisher=Cyngor Gwynedd|accessdate=21 November 2011}}</ref>

The irregular Nefyn Coaches service 8b has an early morning weekday [[Nefyn]]–[[Tudweiliog]]–[[Llangwnnadl]]–Penygroeslon–Rhydlios bus, which operates only during school holidays. On Wednesdays throughout the year, a return journey runs the Rhydlios–Porth Or–Uwchmynydd–Aberdaron–Penycaerau–Y Rhiw–Botwnnog–Mynytho–Llanbedrog–Pwllheli route. On other weekdays a Nefyn–Tudweiliog–Llangwnnadl–Penygroeslon–Aberdaron–Uwchmynydd bus runs. On Wednesdays during school terms, an afternoon journey runs on the Y Rhiw–Botwnnog–Mynytho–Llanbedgrog–Pwllheli route. At weekends, a Saturday morning bus operates Nefyn–Dinas–Rhos-ddu–Brynmawr–Sarn Meyllteyrn–Pant–Uwchmynydd. This then makes a journey through the heart of Llŷn on the Uwchmynydd–Porth Or–Rhydlios–Pant–Sarn Meyllteyrn–Brynmawr–Rhos-ddu–Dinas–[[Llaniestyn, Gwynedd|Llaniestyn]]–Garnfadryn–Rhyd-y-clafdy–[[Efailnewydd]]–Pwllheli route, returning in the afternoon. It completes the day retracing its steps over the Uwchmynydd–Pant–Sarn Meyllteyrn–Brynmawr–Rhos-ddu–Dinas–Nefyn route.<ref name="nefyn coaches">{{cite web|title=Nefyn Coaches: 8b: Pwllheli–Nefyn–Rhydlios–Uwchmynydd|url=http://www.gwynedd.gov.uk/upload/public/attachments/1112/8B_Pwllheli__Nefyn__Rhydlios__Uwchmynydd.pdf|publisher=Cyngor Gwynedd|accessdate=21 November 2011}}</ref>

[[File:The easy way to disembark - geograph.org.uk - 904176.jpg|thumb|left|The passenger ferry arriving at [[Bardsey Island]] from Porth Meudwy. At low tide, the boat has to be hauled up to the boathouse by tractor before passengers can disembark.]]

On weekdays other than Wednesdays, Nefyn Coaches service 334 runs a morning Rhydlios–Porth Or–Uwchmynydd–Aberdaron–Penygroeslon–Llangwnnadl–Tudweiliog–Nefyn route. A second journey at midday operates from Uwchmynydd over the same route to Nefyn, and on to Pwllheli. Each weekday, an early evening bus runs the Penygroeslon–Rhydlios–Porth Or–Uwchmynydd route, while on Wednesdays during school holidays an afternoon Rhydlios–Botwnnog–Mynytho–Llanbedrog–Pwllheli bus runs.<ref name="nefyn coaches"/>

Bardsey Boat Trips ({{lang-cy|Mordeithiau Enlli}}) operates passenger ferries between Porth Meudwy and [[Bardsey Island]]. These are supplemented by Enlli Charters, who sail between Pwllheli and the island.<ref>{{cite web|title=Day Trips to Bardsey Island|url=http://www.bardseyboattrips.com/map_e.htm|work=Bardsey Boat Trips|publisher=Mordaith Llŷn|accessdate=21 November 2011}}</ref><ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.enllicharter.co.uk/enllicharter.htm |publisher=Enlli Charters |title=Day Trips to Bardsey Island |accessdate=21 November 2011}}</ref>

The nearest railway station is at Pwllheli, {{convert|14.8|mi|km}} to the east, on the [[Cambrian Coast Line]] ({{lang-cy|Lein Arfordir y Cambria}}) to [[Machynlleth]]. Services are provided by [[Arriva Trains Wales]] ({{lang-cy|Trenau Arriva Cymru}}), with some trains continuing to [[Shrewsbury]] and [[Birmingham]].<ref>{{cite web|title=Swansea to Shrewsbury, Cambrian Coast and Chester to Birmingham|url=http://www.arrivatrainswales.co.uk/1/|publisher=Arriva Trains Wales|accessdate=21 November 2011}}</ref>

==Public services==
Water and sanitation are provided by [[Welsh Water|Dŵr Cymru]] ({{lang-en|Welsh Water}}), owned by Glas Cymru, a [[company limited by guarantee]].<ref>[http://www.dwrcymru.com/ Dŵr Cymru] Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref> The [[Distribution Network Operator|electricity distribution company]] is [[Scottish Power]], a subsidiary of the [[Basque Country (autonomous community)|Basque]] utility [[Iberdrola]].<ref>[http://www.scottishpower.com/ Scottish Power] Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref>

[[Welsh Ambulance Services NHS Trust|Welsh Ambulance Services]] ({{lang-cy|Gwasanaethau Ambiwlans Cymru}}) provide ambulance and paramedic services;<ref>[http://www.was-tr.wales.nhs.uk/ Welsh Ambulance Services NHS Trust] Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref> and North West Wales NHS Trust ({{lang-cy|Ymddiriedolaeth GIG Gogledd Orllewin Cymru}}) is responsible for hospital services. The nearest community hospital is Ysbyty Bryn Beryl at [[Pwllheli]]; for 24-hour accident and emergency services the nearest provision is at Ysbyty Gwynedd in [[Bangor, Gwynedd|Bangor]].<ref>[http://www.northwestwales.org/WiSSCMS-en-196.aspx "Hospital Information"]. North West Wales NHS Trust. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref> The general provision of health services is the responsibility of Gwynedd Local Health Board ({{lang-cy|Bwrdd Iechyd Lleol Gwynedd}}).<ref>[http://www.wales.nhs.uk/sites3/home.cfm?orgid=273 Gwynedd Local Health Board]. 1 October 2009. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref>

Law enforcement is the responsibility of [[North Wales Police]] ({{lang-cy|Heddlu Gogledd Cymru}}), formed in 1967 as Gwynedd Constabulary.<ref>[http://www.north-wales.police.uk/nwpv2/en/home.asp "Neighbourhood Policing Teams"]. North Wales Police. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref> [[North Wales Fire and Rescue Service]] ({{lang-cy|Gwasanaeth Tân ac Achub Gogledd Cymru}}) was created in 1996 by the merger of the [[Gwynedd]] and [[Clwyd]] fire brigades; it provides public protection services, operating out of the fire station at [[Abersoch]].<ref>[http://www.nwales-fireservice.org.uk/page.asp?page=24&skey=6 "Stations: Abersoch"]. North Wales Fire and Rescue Service. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref>

==Education==
In the early 19th century there was a school for poor children, which moved in a four-year cycle between Aberdaron, [[Llanfaelrhys]], [[Bryncroes]] and [[Y Rhiw]].<ref name="topographical"/> The [[Elementary Education Act 1870]] provided for local school boards, but was opposed by the established church. The process of establishing boards was lengthy, and the government had to enforce the regulations in Aberdaron, Llanfaelrhys and Y Rhiw;<ref name="assessment"/> the [[National school (England and Wales)|national school]] opened at Y Rhiw in 1877 and had 74 pupils on its register; it closed in 1965.<ref>[http://www.rhiw.com/hanes_pages/education.htm "Education"]. Rhiw. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref>

[[Primary Education in Wales|Primary education]] is now provided by Ysgol Crud y Werin in Aberdaron, which has 54 pupils, and by Ysgol Llidiardau in Rhoshirwaun, established in 1880, which has 21 pupils.<ref>[http://www.gwynedd.gov.uk/upload/public/attachments/1015/MasterCyfrifiadCynraddMedi197520091.xls "Primary Schools' Census 1975–2009"]. Cyngor Gwynedd. Retrieved 8 October 2010</ref> At the last inspection of Ysgol Crud y Werin, by [[Estyn]] in 2008, there were no pupils entitled to [[free school meals]], and 84 per cent came from homes where Welsh was the main spoken language; Welsh is the main medium of teaching.<ref>[http://www.estyn.gov.uk/inspection_reports/ysgol_crud_y_werin_may_2008.pdf "Inspection under Section 28 of the Education Act 2005: Ysgol Crud y Werin"]. Estyn. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref> Ysgol Llidiardau was last inspected in 2009; 18 per cent of pupils were entitled to free school meals and 36 per cent came from homes where Welsh was the predominant language.<ref>[http://www.estyn.gov.uk/inspection_reports/ysgol_llidiardau_january_2009.pdf "Inspection under Section 28 of the Education Act 2005: Ysgol Llidiardau"]. Estyn. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref> Secondary school pupils mainly attend [[Botwnnog|Ysgol Botwnnog]].<ref>[http://www.gwynedd.gov.uk/gwy_doc.asp?cat=3217&doc=12928&Language=1 "Botwnnog Catchment Area"]. Cyngor Gwynedd. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref>

==Culture==
[[File:Dic Aberdaron.jpg|thumb|right|upright|[[Dic Aberdaron]] was born in Aberdaron in 1780. Despite very little formal education, he is said to have been fluent in 14 languages, and spent years travelling the country accompanied by his books and his cat.]]

Aberdaron is a predominantly Welsh-speaking community; 75.2 per cent of the population speak the language.<ref>[http://www.neighbourhood.statistics.gov.uk/dissemination/LeadTableView.do?a=3&b=323400&c=aberdaron&d=16&e=16&g=413213&i=1001x1003x1004&m=0&r=1&s=1248691139803&enc=1&dsFamilyId=197 "Census 2001: Welsh Language Skills: Lower Layer Super Output Area: Gwynedd 014A"]. Office for National Statistics. 18 November 2004. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref> A mobile library visits a number of sites in the community each week;<ref>[http://www.gwynedd.gov.uk/upload/public/attachments/990/bm20912.pdf "North Gwynedd Mobile Library Service"]. Cyngor Gwynedd. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref> and [[:cy:Llanw Llŷn|Llanw Llŷn]], a [[:cy:papur bro|papur bro]] published in [[Abersoch]], serves the area;<ref>[http://www.bbc.co.uk/cymru/gogleddorllewin/papurau_bro/llanw_llyn/ "Papurau Bro"]. BBC. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref> the local English newspapers are the [[Caernarfon and Denbigh Herald]], published in [[Caernarfon]];<ref>[http://icnorthwales.icnetwork.co.uk/ourprint/weekly/content_objectid=11207460_method=full_siteid=50142_headline=-Herald-s-a-part-of-everyday-life-name_page.html "Our Newspapers: Caernarfon and Denbigh Herald"]. Trinity Mirror North West and North Wales. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref> and the [[Cambrian News]], published in [[Aberystwyth]].<ref>[http://www.cambrian-news.co.uk/ Cambrian News]. Retrieved 8 October 2010</ref> Summer harp recitals and concerts are held in St Hywyn's Church;<ref name="hywyn"/> Gŵyl Pen Draw'r Byd ({{lang-en|The Land's End Festival}}) is a yearly event which includes beach side concerts and competitions on the shore, with an evening concert at Morfa Mawr Farm;<ref name="penllyn"/> Gŵyl Pentre Coll ({{lang-en|The Lost Village Festival}}), a festival of contemporary acoustic music, has been held since 2008 at Felin Uchaf in Rhoshirwaun;<ref>[http://www.abersochcottages.com/welsh-music/gwyl-pentre-coll.htm "Music Festival Returns to the Llŷn"]. Abersoch Cottages. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref> and a local [[eisteddfod]], Eisteddfod Flynyddol Uwchmynydd, is held at Ysgol Crud y Werin.<ref name="assessment"/><ref>[http://www.highbeam.com/doc/1G1-161949776.html "Eisteddfod Flynyddol Uwchmynydd Aberdaron"]. [[Liverpool Daily Post]]. 13 April 2007. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref>

The poet [[R. S. Thomas|Ronald Stuart Thomas]] was vicar of St Hywyn's Church from 1967 to 1978; when he retired he lived for some years in [[Y Rhiw]].<ref>[http://www.st-hywyn.org.uk/rsthomas.htm "R S Thomas"]. St Hywyn's Church. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref> An ardent Welsh nationalist who learnt to speak Welsh, his poetry was based on his religious faith. In 1995 he was nominated for the [[Nobel Prize in Literature]],<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.independent.co.uk/news/r-s-thomas-nominated-for-nobel-prize-1590561.html |title=R S Thomas Nominated for Nobel Prize|publisher=[[The Independent]]|date=9 July 1995|accessdate=16 October 2010}}</ref> and he was widely regarded as the best religious poet of his time.<ref>[http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/wales/942723.stm "R S Thomas, Wales's Outspoken Poet"]. BBC. 26 September 2000. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref> The subject of one of Thomas's poems, Richard Robert Jones, better known as "[[Dic Aberdaron]]", was born in the village in 1780. Despite very little formal education, he is said to have been fluent in 14 languages, and spent years travelling the country accompanied by his books and his cat.<ref>Thomas, R. S. [http://www.gtj.org.uk/en/small/item/GTJ18316/ "Gathering The Jewels: The Poem "Dic Aberdaron"]. Culturenet Cymru. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref>

[[File:Teloschistes flavicans1.JPG|thumb|left|The [[Teloschistes|golden hair lichen]], which is very sensitive to air pollution, is found in Aberdaron. The poet [[Dafydd Nanmor]] likened it to the colour of his loved one's hair.]]

William Rowlands won a prize at the [[National Eisteddfod]] in 1922, for an adventure story written for boys. The book, ''Y Llong Lo'' ({{lang-en|The Coal Ship}}) was published in 1924, and told the story of two boys who stow away on one of the ships that brought coal to Porth Neigwl.<ref name="snippets vi"/> The South African poet [[Roy Campbell (poet)|Roy Campbell]] published ''The Flaming Terrapin'', written in a "''croglofft'' cottage" above Porth Ysgo, in 1922;<ref>[http://www.rhiw.com/pobol/campbell/love_in_a_hut.htm "Love in a Hut"]. Rhiw. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref> he was considered to be one of the best poets of the period between the two world wars.<ref>[http://www.catholicauthors.com/roy_campbell.html "Roy Campbell: Bombast and Fire"]. Catholic Author. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref> Considered one of the most significant Welsh poets of the 15th century, [[Dafydd Nanmor]], in ''Gwallt Llio'', compared the striking yellow colour of the rocks at Uwchmynydd, covered by [[teloschistes|golden hair lichen]], to the colour of his loved one's hair.<ref>[http://www.bbc.co.uk/wales/northwest/sites/nature/pages/penllyn.shtml "Treasures of the Llŷn"]. BBC. 21 September 2006. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref> [[Lewys Daron]], a 16th-century poet best known for his elegy to friend and fellow poet [[Tudur Aled]], is thought to have been born in Aberdaron.<ref>{{Harvnb|Lake|1994|p=}}</ref>{{Page needed|date=October 2010}}

Yorkshire-born poet [[Christine Evans (poet)|Christine Evans]] lives half the year on [[Bardsey Island]] and spends the winters at Uwchmynydd. She moved to [[Pwllheli]] as a teacher and married into a Bardsey Island farming family. On maternity leave in 1976, she started writing poems; her first book was published seven years later. ''Cometary Phrases'' was Welsh Book of the Year 1989 and she was the winner of the inaugural Roland Mathias Prize in 2005.<ref>[http://www.gomer.co.uk/gomer/en/gomer.ViewAuthor/authorBio/130 "Author Biographies: Christine Evans"]. Gwasg Gomer. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref>

Edgar Ewart Pritchard, an amateur film-maker from [[Brownhills]], produced ''"The Island in the Current"'', a colour movie of life on Bardsey Island, in 1953; a copy of the film is held by the [[National Screen and Sound Archive of Wales]].<ref>[http://education.gtj.org.uk/film/filmitems.php?lang=en&id=30354 "Gathering the Jewels: Film: The Island in the Current, 1953"]. Culturenet Cymru. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref> A candle lantern, discovered in 1946 in a cowshed at Y Rhiw, is now displayed in [[St Fagans National History Museum]];<ref name="snippets vi">[http://www.rhiw.com/hanes_pages/rhiw_snippets/snippets_6/snippets_6.htm "Snippets VI"]. Rhiw. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref> and [[Iron Age]] pottery found at Castell Odo is on display at Gwynedd Museum and Art Gallery in [[Bangor, Gwynedd|Bangor]].<ref>[http://www.gtj.org.uk/index.php?id=5178&L=0 "Gathering the Jewels: Aerial Photograph of Castell Odo Iron Age Hillfort, Aberdaron, 1989"]. Culturenet Cymru. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref>

[[Dilys Cadwaladr]], the former school teacher on Bardsey Island, in 1953 became the first woman to win the Crown at the National Eisteddfod for her long poem ''Y Llen''; and artist [[Brenda Chamberlain (artist)|Brenda Chamberlain]] twice won the Gold Medal for Art at the Eisteddfod; some of the murals she painted can still be seen on the walls of Carreg, her island home from 1947 to 1962. Wildlife artist Kim Atkinson, whose work has been widely exhibited in Wales and England, spent her childhood on the island and returned to live there in the 1980s.<ref name="arts">[http://www.enlli.org/english/the_island/arts.htm "Enlli and the Arts"]. Bardsey Island Trust. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref>

Since 1999, Bardsey Island Trust has appointed an Artist in Residence to spend several weeks on the island producing work which is later exhibited on the mainland. A Welsh literary residence was created in 2002; singer-songwriter [[Fflur Dafydd]] spent six weeks working on a collection of poetry and prose.<ref name="arts"/> Her play ''Hugo'' was inspired by her stay, and she has produced two novels, ''Atyniad'' ({{lang-en|Attraction}}), which won the prose medal at the 2006 Eisteddfod; and ''Twenty Thousand Saints'', winner of the Oxfam Hay Prize, which tells how the women of the island, starved of men, turn to each other.<ref>[http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/wales/8066051.stm "Singer-songwriter Wins Book Prize"]. BBC. 24 May 2009. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref>

It was tradition for Bardsey Island to elect the "King of Bardsey" ({{lang-cy|Brenin Enlli}}), and from 1820 onwards he would be crowned by Baron Newborough or his representative;<ref name="kings">[http://www.cimwch.com/brenin_enlli/brenin_enlli.htm "Kings of Bardsey"]. Cimwch. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref> the crown is now kept at [[Merseyside Maritime Museum]] in [[Liverpool]], although calls have been made for it to return to Gwynedd.<ref>[http://www.guardian.co.uk/uk/2008/oct/05/wales.archaeology "Islanders Call for Return of Welsh Crown"]. The Guardian. 5 October 2008. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref> At the outbreak of the First World War, the last king, Love Pritchard, offered himself and the men of the island for military service, but he was refused as he was considered too old at the age of 71; Pritchard took umbrage, and declared the island to be a neutral power.<ref name="kings"/> In 1925 Pritchard left the island for the mainland, to seek a less laborious way of life, but died the following year.<ref>[http://www.enlli.org/english/the_island/island_history.htm "History"]. Bardsey Island Trust. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref>

Owen Griffith, a qualified pharmacist from Penycaerau, who was known as the "Doctor of the Wild Wart", used a traditional herbalist remedy to cure [[basal cell carcinoma]], also known as rodent ulcer; the remedy had supposedly been passed on to the family 300 years earlier by an [[Irish Traveller|Irish tinker]]. In 1932 a woman died while receiving treatment and, even though the [[inquest]] into her death found that no blame was apportioned to the treatment, the Chief Medical Officer for [[Caernarfonshire]] vociferously condemned the treatment in the press. Former patients came out in support of the pharmacist, and petitions were sent to the Department of Health demanding that a medical licence be granted to Griffith and his cousin.<ref>[http://www.rhiw.com/pobol/y_ddafad_wyllt_2.htm "Doctors of the Wild Wart"]. Rhiw. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref>

There are several folk tales of the [[Tylwyth Teg]], the [[fairy]] people who inhabited the area and an invisible land in [[Cardigan Bay]]. One tells of a farmer from Aberdaron who was in the habit of stepping outside his house before retiring to bed. One night he was spoken to by a stranger, who asked why the farmer was annoyed by him. The farmer, confused, asked what the stranger meant and was told to stand with one foot on the stranger's. This he did, and could see another house, just below his own, and that all the farm's slops went down the chimney of the invisible house. The stranger asked if the farmer would move his door to the other side of the house, which the farmer subsequently did, walling up the original door; from that day, the farmer's livestock flourished, and he became one of the most prosperous men in the area.<ref>[http://www.rhiw.com/chwedlae/Tylwyth_Teg/tylwyth_teg2.htm "Llŷn's Tylwyth Teg: Aberdaron"]. Rhiw. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref>

==Religion==
A church was founded in Aberdaron in the 6th century by Saint Hywyn, a follower of [[Saint Cadfan]];<ref name="edge">[http://www.edgeofwaleswalk.co.uk/section7.htm "Mynydd Mawr to Aberdaron"]. The Edge of Wales Walk. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref> it was a significant institution, a monastery and centre of religious learning, rather than simply a place of worship for the locals.<ref name="pilgrim"/> The present double-naved St Hywyn's Church ({{lang-cy|Eglwys Hywyn Sant}}), built in 1137 and known as ''"The Cathedral of Llŷn"'', stands above the shore and was on the pilgrim route to [[Bardsey Island]]. It contains a 12th-century [[Romanesque architecture|Romanesque]] arched door,<ref>[http://www.heneb.co.uk/llynhlc/thematicessays/religion.html "Religion and its Influence on the Landscape"]. Gwynedd Archaeological Trust. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref> and a square bell turret.<ref name="topographical"/> The church was extended in 1417 and abandoned in 1841, when the locals decided to build a new church, Eglwys Newydd, in the village; the new building, however, proved unpopular and the congregation returned in 1906. Inside is a display about the life and works of the poet, [[R. S. Thomas|Ronald Stuart Thomas]];<ref name="hywyn">[http://www.bbc.co.uk/wales/northwest/sites/bardsey/pages/st_hywyn.shtml "Saving St Hywyn's"]. BBC. 3 April 2006. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref> and in the churchyard stand Y Meini Feracius a Senagus ({{lang-en|The Veracius and Senacus Stones}}), the tombstones of two 5th-century Christian priests, found in the 18th century on farmland near Mynydd Anelog.<ref>[http://www.st-hywyn.org.uk/stones.htm "Stones"]. St Hywyn's Church. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref> In 2008 the church became the centre of controversy when the local vicar blessed a gay civil partnership, after approval by the local church council; the vicar was reprimanded by [[Barry Morgan]], the [[Archbishop of Wales]] ({{lang-cy|Archesgob Cymru}}). Referring to the archbishop's protests, the vicar stated ''"There was a bit of a to-do about it"''.<ref>[http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/wales/north_west/7631356.stm "Gay Blessing Vicar is Reprimanded"]. BBC. 23 September 2008. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref>

[[File:StHywynChurchAberdaron.jpg|thumb|left|St Hywyn's Church was built in 1137 on the site of a 6th-century religious foundation and is known as "The Cathedral of Llŷn".]]
The church at [[Llanfaelrhys]] is the only one in the United Kingdom dedicated to [[Saint Maelrhys]],<ref>{{Harvnb|Cantrell|2006|p=135}}</ref> the cousin of both Saint Cadfan and Saint Hywyn, who accompanied them to Wales from [[Brittany]]. Legend attributes the building of the church to a trader who landed a cargo of flour near Aberdaron during a famine; he used the profit from his sale to construct a small church for the locals. Much of the building is medieval; the font dates back to the 15th century; and there are plain hard wooden benches on the north side; on the south side are 19th-century wooden box pews.<ref>[http://www.st-hywyn.org.uk/maelrhys.htm "St Maelrhys' Church"]. St Hywyn's Church. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref> The graveyard contains the graves of the three Keating sisters, who restored Plas yn Rhiw.<ref name="thousand"/>

St Aelrhiw's Church at [[Y Rhiw]] was built in 1860 on the footings of an earlier church. It consists of a small nave and short chancel; aisles to the north and south; and has boulder-built walls and a slate roof. The churchyard contains the graves of some of the bodies that were washed up at Porth Neigwl during the first World War.<ref>[http://www.rhiw.com/hanes_02/adeiladau/aelrhiw/saint_aelrhiw.htm "Saint Aelrhiw"]. Rhiw. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref> Above Porth Iago is the site of the ancient St Medin's Church; now just a mound in the middle of a field, it was the parish church of Bodferin.<ref>{{Harvnb|Cantrell|2006|p=102}}</ref>

[[File:Nebo Independent chapel and chapel house, Y Rhiw - geograph.org.uk - 617233.jpg|thumb|right|Capel Nebo at [[Y Rhiw]] was built in 1813 for the [[Congregationalists]].]]
One of the first [[non-conformists]] in the area was Morgan Griffith of Y Rhiw. In 1745 he was brought before the court in [[Pwllheli]], where he was jailed for failing to renounce his beliefs. After his release he returned to Y Rhiw and began to preach again. Re-arrested, he was returned to a [[prison ship]] in England, where he subsequently died.<ref name="religion">[http://www.rhiw.com/crefydd/Crefydd.htm "Religion"]. Rhiw. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref> Two of the earliest non-conformist chapels in the Llŷn Peninsula were established at Penycaerau, in 1768, and Uwchmynydd, in 1770;<ref name="hinterland"/> the [[Congregational]]ists opened Cephas Independent Chapel in 1829;<ref>{{Harvnb|Rees|Thomas|p=187}}</ref> and Capel Nebo was built at Y Rhiw in 1813;<ref>[http://www.rhiw.com/crefydd/nebo_chapel/history_of_nebo_chapel.htm "The History of Nebo Chapel"]. Rhiw. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref> the [[Methodist Church of Great Britain|Wesleyan Methodists]] followed in 1832 at Capel Pisgah.<ref>[http://www.penllyn.com/1/gallery/rhiw/piscah.html "Capel Pisgah"]. Pen Llŷn. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref> By 1850 there were eight non-conformist chapels in Aberdaron; five in Y Rhiw; and one on Bardsey Island;<ref name="assessment"/> but more were to be built. The [[Calvinistic Methodists]] opened Capel Tan y Foel;<ref name="penarfynydd"/> and Capel Bethesda, the [[Baptist]] chapel at Rhoshirwaun, was built in 1904.<ref>[http://www.rhiw.com/crefydd/galltraeth_chapel.htm "Galltraeth Chapel"]. Rhiw. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref> Aberdaron is also home to a [[Seventh-day Adventist Church|Seventh-day Adventist]] youth camp named Glan-yr-afon, located {{convert|1|mi|km}} from the village centre.<ref>[http://www.aberdaroncamp.com/ Seventh-day "Welcome to Aberdaron Camp"]. Adventist Church. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref>

At the 2001 census 73.9 per cent of the population claimed to be [[Christian]] and 15.0 per cent stated that they had no religion.<ref>[http://www.neighbourhood.statistics.gov.uk/dissemination/LeadTableView.do?a=3&b=323400&c=aberdaron&d=16&e=16&g=413213&i=1001x1003x1004&m=0&r=1&s=1248691139771&enc=1&dsFamilyId=95 "Census 2001: Religion: Lower Layer Super Output Area: Gwynedd 014A"]. Office for National Statistics. 18 November 2004. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref>

==Sport==
Aberdaron hosts numerous [[regatta|sailing regattas]] featuring [[clinker (boat building)|clinker]] built boats unique to the area;<ref name="tourist"/> there is a popular regatta every August where the races are open to everyone.<ref name="penllyn"/> [[Recreational boat fishing|Sea angling]] trips are operated from Porth Meudwy, fishing for [[Pollachius pollachius|pollock]], [[Pollachius virens|coley]] and [[Atlantic mackerel|mackerel]]; [[wrasse]], [[European seabass|bass]], [[Mullet (fish)|mullet]] and [[Sea robin|gurnard]] are also possible.<ref>[http://www.bardseyboattrips.com/trips/fishing.htm "Your Ticket to Fish"]. Bardsey Boat Trips. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref> Bass and coley can be caught from the rocks at Porth Iago; and wrasse, pollock and mackerel are plentiful.<ref name="sea angling">[http://www.nwsa.ukf.net/list/lleyn.htm North "Llŷn Venues"]. Wales Sea Angling. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref> Access is difficult at Uwchmynydd, but pollock, mackerel, wrasse and [[European conger|conger]] are caught; [[spiny dogfish|huss]] are plentiful; and [[common ling|ling]] are found occasionally.<ref name="sea angling"/>

[[File:Aberdaron - Coastal Path, Porth Llanllawen.jpg|thumb|left|The Llŷn Coastal Path ({{lang-cy|Llwybr Arfordir Llŷn}}) stretches for {{convert|84|mi|km}} around the Gwynedd coast.]]
The village is a popular [[hiking|walking centre]] and lies on the Llŷn Coastal Path ({{lang-cy|Llwybr Arfordir Llŷn}}), which runs {{convert|84|mi|km}} from [[Caernarfon]] to [[Porthmadog]].<ref>[http://www.gwynedd.gov.uk/gwy_doc.asp?cat=3891&doc=14598&Language=1 "Llŷn Coastal Path"]. Cyngor Gwynedd. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref> [[Kayaking]] is possible from both Aberdaron and Porth Neigwl, and the south-facing "sunshine coast" is a major attraction; there are [[campsite|camping facilities]] for canoeists on the shores of Porth Neigwl. Tidal streams are generally weak, although landing conditions are tricky when there is wind or swell from the south.

The area has excellent [[underwater diving|diving]]. Underwater visibility at [[Bardsey Island]] extends to {{convert|66|ft}} and there is a rich variety of sea life; it is considered some of the best diving in [[Gwynedd]].<ref>[http://www.richardbufton.co.uk/Bardsey.html "Bardsey Island"]. Richard Bufton. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref> The Ynysoedd Gwylanod are particularly popular, and the wreck of the ''Glenocum'', in Bae Aberdaron, is excellent for novices, having a maximum depth of {{convert|26|ft}}; an extremely large [[European conger|conger eel]] lives in the lower section of the boiler openings.<ref>[http://www.richardbufton.co.uk/Aberdaron.html "Aberdaron Bay"]. Richard Bufton. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref> There is spectacular diving at Pen y Cil, where there is a slate wreck and an unusual cave dive; nearby Carreg Ddu is an isolated rocky island in Bardsey Sound, although care must be taken as there are strong currents.<ref>[http://www.richardbufton.co.uk/page9.htm "Cave and Slate Wreck Dive"]. Richard Bufton. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref>

[[File:Aberdaron - Beach.JPG|thumb|right|The beach at Aberdaron attracts both bathers and surfers; it received a [[Keep Wales Tidy|Seaside Award]] in 2008.]]
[[Sea bathing|Bathing]] is popular along the coast. Aberdaron Beach, facing south west, is sandy, gently shelving and safe; it received a [[Keep Wales Tidy|Seaside Award]] in 2008.<ref name="seaside award"/> Porthor also attracts bathers, and has sands which squeak when walked on;<ref>[http://www.gwynedd.com/locations.php?l=1 "Aberdaron"]. Gwynedd. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref> the beach at Porth Neigwl was awarded a [[Green Coast Award]] in 2009;<ref>[http://new.wales.gov.uk/topics/tourism/news/beaches/?lang=en "Beaches for the Discerning"]. Welsh Assembly Government. 11 May 2009. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref>

Aberdaron Beach is a [[surfing]] and [[bodyboarding]] location for surfers of all levels, although it can be dangerous at high tide when the waves break directly onto boulders underneath the cliff.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.bbc.co.uk/wales/northwest/sites/surfing/pages/porthneigwl.shtml |title=Hell's Mouth|publisher=[[British Broadcasting Corporation|BBC]]|accessdate=16 August 2009}}</ref><ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.bbc.co.uk/wales/northwest/sites/surfing/pages/porthoer.shtml|title= Porth Oer|publisher=[[British Broadcasting Corporation|BBC]]|accessdate=16 August 2009}}</ref> The better surfers head for the northern end.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.walesdirectory.co.uk/tourist-attractions/Surfing/Wales8837.htm|title= Hell's Mouth Beach Surfing|publisher=Wales Directory| accessdate=16 August 2009}}</ref>{{-}}

==References==
;Notes
{{Reflist|colwidth=30em}}

;Bibliography
{{refbegin}}
*{{cite book |last=Cantrell |first=John |title=The Lleyn Peninsula Coastal Path: A Walking and Cycle Touring Guide |year=2006 |publisher=Ciccerone Press |location=Milnthorpe |isbn=978-1-85284-479-0}}
*{{cite book |last=Hamilton |first=Nicholas Esterhazy Stephen Armytage |title=The National Gazetteer of Great Britain and Ireland |year=1868 |publisher=Virtue and Company |location=London |url=http://www.genuki.org.uk/big/wal/CAE/Aberdaron/Gaz1868.html#NatGaz}}
*{{cite book |last1=Hole |first1=Abigail |last2=O'Carroll |first2=Etain |title=Lonely Planet: Wales |year=2004 |publisher=Lonely Planet Publications |location=Footscray |isbn=978-1-74059-424-0}}
*{{cite book |last=Koch |first=John T |title=Celtic Culture, A Historical Encyclopedia |year=2006 |publisher=ABC-CLIO |location=Santa Barbara |isbn=1-85109-440-7 |url=http://books.google.com/books?id=f899xH_quaMC&pg=PA703}}
*{{cite book |last=Lake |first=A Cynfael |title=Gwaith Lewys Daron|year=1994 |publisher=[[University of Wales Press|Gwasg Prifysgol Cymru]] |location=Cardiff |isbn=0-7083-1238-1}}
*{{cite book |last=Lewis |first=Samuel |title=A Topographical Dictionary of Wales |year=1849|publisher=S Lewis and Company |location=London |url=http://www.british-history.ac.uk/report.aspx?compid=47795}}
*{{cite book |last=Mills |first=A D |title=A Dictionary of British Place-Names |year=2003 |publisher=[[Oxford University Press]] |location=Oxford |isbn=978-0-19-852758-9}}
*{{cite book |last1=Rees |first1=Thomas |last2=Thomas |first2=John |title=Hanes Eglwysi Annibynnol Cymru Volume 3 |year=1871 |publisher= |location=Liverpool |url=http://www.genuki.org.uk/big/wal/CAE/Aberdaron/Hanes.html}}
*{{cite book |last=Sale |first=Richard |title=Best Walks in North Wales |year=2006 |publisher=Frances Lincoln |location=London |isbn=978-0-7112-2423-0}}
{{refend}}

==External links==
{{Wikivoyage|Aberdaron}}
{{Commons category inline|Aberdaron}}
*[http://www.visionofbritain.org.uk/unit_page.jsp?u_id=10199980 A Vision of Britain Through Time]
*[http://www.british-history.ac.uk/search.aspx?query1=Aberdaron British History Online]
*[http://www.britishlistedbuildings.co.uk/wales/gwynedd/aberdaron British Listed Buildings]
*[http://www.genuki.org.uk/big/wal/CAE/Aberdaron/ Genuki]
*[http://www.geograph.org.uk/gridref/SH1726 Geograph]
*[http://www.historicaldirectories.org/hd/b1.asp Historical Directories]
*[http://www.neighbourhood.statistics.gov.uk/dissemination/LeadAreaSearch.do?a=3&c=mansergh&d=16&r=1&i=1001&m=0&s=1316216917594&enc=1&areaSearchText=aberdaron&areaSearchType=16&extendedList=true&searchAreas= Office for National Statistics]
*[http://www.rhiw.com/ Y Rhiw]

{{Gwynedd}}

{{Use dmy dates|date=January 2013}}

{{Good article}}

[[Category:Aberdaron| Aberdaron]]

Aberaeron

2013-06-05T02:54:28Z

Hazard-Bot: Robot: Added link to Wikivoyage

{{infobox UK place|
|country = Wales
|welsh_name=
|map_type=
|latitude = 52.24204
|longitude = -4.25921
|constituency_welsh_assembly= [[Ceredigion (Assembly constituency)|Ceredigion]]
|official_name= Aberaeron
|static_image_name=AberaeronHouses.jpg
|static_image_width=250
|static_image_caption=Houses on the quay
|static_image_alt=
|static_image_2_name=
|static_image_2_width=
|static_image_2_caption=
|static_image_2_alt=
|unitary_wales= [[Ceredigion]]
|lieutenancy_wales= [[Dyfed]]
|constituency_westminster= [[Ceredigion (UK Parliament constituency)|Ceredigion]]
|post_town= ABERAERON
|postcode_district = SA46
|postcode_area= SA
|dial_code= 01545
|os_grid_reference= SN458628
|population= 1,520
}}
'''Aberaeron''' ({{Derive|Welsh|Aberaeron|mouth of the [[River Aeron]]}}, [[Aeron (Celtic mythology)|Aeron]] being a Welsh god of war<ref>[http://www.bbc.co.uk/wales/whatsinaname/sites/placenametool/?q=Aberaeron&search.x=0&search.y=0 BBC Wales—What's in a name?]</ref>) is a [[seaside resort]] [[town]] in [[Ceredigion]], [[Wales]]. Situated between [[Aberystwyth]] and [[Cardigan, Ceredigion|Cardigan]], it is home to the headquarters of [[Ceredigion|Ceredigion County Council]]. The population was 1520 in 2001.<ref>[http://www.neighbourhood.statistics.gov.uk/dissemination/viewFullDataset.do;jsessionid=ac1f930c30d5b0975d9516744e64bcdae8b9d547c691?instanceSelection=03070&productId=779&$ph=60_61&datasetInstanceId=3070&startColumn=1&numberOfColumns=4&containerAreaId=790566 Office for National Statistics : ''Census 2001 : Parish Headcounts : Ceredigion'']</ref>

==History and design==
The present town was planned and developed from 1805 by the Rev. Alban Thomas Jones Gwynne. The [[harbour]] he built operated as a [[port]] and supported a [[shipbuilding]] industry in the 19th century. A group of workmen's houses and a school were built on the harbour's north side, but these were reclaimed by the sea.<ref name=abertrail>[http://www.cymdeithasaberaeron.org/Aberaeron%20Walk.pdf Aberaeron 1807–2007: Aberaeron Town Trail, celebrating our heritage] Heritage Treftadaeth, 2007 (under building 1 - General Storehouse)</ref> Steam ships continued to visit the harbour until the 1920s but, in later years, it evolved into a small half-tide [[harbour]] for recreational craft. The estuary is also crossed by a wooden pedestrian [[bridge]].

Crafts were an important part of village life. Information recorded in trade directories shows that in 1830, although it was not yet fully developed as a port, there were in Aberaeron one woollen manufacturer, one bootmaker, one [[baker]], one [[Miller|corn miller]], one [[blacksmith]], one blacksmith and shovel maker, two [[shipwrights]], one [[carpenter]] and one [[hat maker]].<ref>Jenkins, J. Geraint. ''Ceredigion: Interpreting an Ancient County.'' Gwasg Careg Gwalch (2005) pg. 83.</ref>

In the late 1890s, a hand-powered cable car 'The [[Aeron Express]]' was built to ferry workers across the harbour when the bridge was demolished by floods. The structure was recreated in the late 1980s as a tourist attraction that ran until the end of summer 1994.

The [[architecture]] of Aberaeron is unusual in this part of rural Wales, being constructed around a principal square of elegant [[Regency style]] buildings grouped around the harbour. This was the work of [[Edward Haycock Snr|Edward Haycock]], an architect from Shrewsbury. Some of the architecture was of sufficient interest to feature on British postage stamps.<ref name=abertrail/>

==Castell Cadwgan==
Castell Cadwgan, a 12th-century [[ringwork]] fortification around a probable wooden structure, was located by the shore at Aberaeron, but has long since been claimed by the sea. Few traces remain today apart from some mounds of earth, the remains of the enclosure bank, most of the site having been eroded.<ref>[http://www.gatehouse-gazetteer.info/Welshsites/129.html Castell Cadwgan Aberaeron] at 'Gatehouse' medieval castles site</ref><ref>[http://www.bbc.co.uk/cymru/hanes/safle/lleol/tudalen/canolbarth_aberaeron.shtml BBC Website - Cymru Hanes - Aberaeron (in Welsh)]</ref>

In ''Wales Illustrated in a Series of Views'' by [[Henry Gastineau]], published in 1810, it states: "Near the town are some remains of an ancient fortress called Castell Cadwgan, thought to have been erected by king [[Cadwgan ap Bleddyn|Cadwgan]], about the year 1148." In ''A Topographical Dictionary of Wales'', published in 1833, Samuel Lewis similarly wrote : "On the sea-shore, near the village, is a circular encampment, designated Castell Cadwgan, and supposed to have been constructed by Cadwgan ab Bleddyn, about 1148." <ref>[http://www.aberaeron-westwales.co.uk Aberaeron West Wales] tourism site</ref> However, Cadwgan is recorded as having been killed in 1111.

''Welsh Minstrelsy: Containing the Land beneath the Sea'', published in 1824, states: "Just where [Sarn Ddewi] juts out from the shore is an old fort, called Castell Cadwgan."

==Location and features==
Aberaeron is located between Cardigan and Aberystwyth on the [[A487 road|A487]], at a junction with the [[A482 road|A482]] leading south-east to the university town of [[Lampeter]].

The shoreline consists of generally steep [[storm beach]]es of [[pebble]]s, although fine [[sand]] is visible at low [[tide]] levels. Aberaeron south beach was awarded the [[Blue Flag beach|Blue Flag]] rural beach award in 2005.<ref>[http://www.keepwalestidy.org/english/default.asp?Category=Default&NewsID=178&Menu=0.26.12.64.74.225 Blue Flag website]</ref> It contains the [[Harbourmaster Hotel]].

The [[climate]] is mild and [[temperate]], largely conditioned by the proximity of the relatively shallow [[sea]]. However, Aberaeron can suffer from occasional winter [[frost]]s when cold air descends the [[River Aeron|Aeron valley]] from the upland parts of Ceredigion.

The town is notable for the sale of [[honey]], honey [[ice-cream]] and, more recently, honey [[mustard (condiment)|mustard]].

70% of Aberaeron's inhabitants are able to speak [[Welsh language|Welsh]] according to the 2001 census.

A life-sized statue of a [[Welsh pony|Welsh cob stallion]] was donated to the town in 2005 by the Aberaeron Festival of Welsh Ponies and Cobs to denote the area as Welsh Cob country. It was created by [[sculptor]] David Mayer.

[[Dylan Thomas]]'s links with Aberaeron, New Quay and Talsarn have been documented by local author David N Thomas.<ref>Dylan Thomas: A Farm, Two Mansions and a Bungalow, Seren 2000. Also see http://undermilkwood.webs.com</ref> [[The Dylan Thomas Trail]] runs through Ceredigion, passing through Aberaeron and ending in New Quay<ref>The Dylan Thomas Trail, by D N Thomas, Y Lolfa, 2002</ref>

An annual carnival takes place on the Monday Bank Holiday in August. A colourful procession of floats and a carnival queen moves from the Quay to Alban Square.<ref>[http://www.aberaeron.info/carnival.htm Aberaeron Carnival] at aberaeron.info website</ref><ref>[http://www.bbc.co.uk/wales/mid/sites/aberaeron/pages/aberaeroncarnival_2009.shtml?1 Aberaeron Carnival 2009 pictures] at BBC West Wales</ref>

===Public transport===
A regular bus service links the town with [[Aberystwyth]], [[Lampeter]] and [[Carmarthen]], with several daily through services to [[Swansea]], [[Bridgend]] and [[Cardiff]].<ref>[http://www.ceredigion.gov.uk/utilities/action/act_download.cfm?mediaid=1061&langtoken=eng Arriva Cymru timetable]</ref><ref>[http://www.ceredigion.gov.uk/utilities/action/act_download.cfm?mediaid=984&langtoken=eng Aberystwyth to Cardiff four days weekly by coach] by Coach Travel Wales</ref> Another service connects with [[New Quay]], [[Aberporth]] and [[Cardigan, Ceredigion|Cardigan]] on Monday through Saturday.<ref>[http://www.ceredigion.gov.uk/utilities/action/act_download.cfm?mediaid=16122&langtoken=eng Arriva Cymru (ARR) - Brodyr Richards/[[Richards Bros]] (RB)] at ceredigion.gov.uk</ref> Railway service from the former [[Aberayron railway station]] was closed to passengers in 1951 and freight in 1965.

==Notable people==
*[[Ron Davies (photographer)|Ron Davies]], photographer
*Sir [[Geraint Evans]], opera singer, had a home in Aberaeron for more than 30 years

==Image gallery==
<gallery>
Image:Aeron2209e.JPG|The River Aeron
Image:Black lion2268e.JPG|The Black Lion Hotel, on Alban Square
Image:Harb2359e.JPG|Harbour at low tide
Image:Bridge2210e.JPG|Footbridge over the Aeron
Image:Harbour2263.JPG|Harbour and hills
Image:Workhouse2287e.JPG|Former workhouse
Image:Feathers2219e.JPG|The Feathers (former coaching inn)
File:Cob2220lg Aberaeron.JPG|Welsh cob statue
Image:MarketSt2208e.JPG|Market Street
Image:Street2218e.JPG|Georgian houses
Image:Northgate Toll House SN4663 073.jpg|Northgate Toll House, c. 1785
Image:Princes_avenue.JPG|Prince's Avenue
</gallery>

==References==

{{reflist|2}}

==External links==
{{Wikivoyage|Aberaeron}}
{{commons category|Aberaeron}}
* [http://www.cymdeithasaberaeron.org/sindex.html Cymdeithas Aberaeron Society] with [http://www.cymdeithasaberaeron.org/stimeline.html historical timeline] and [http://www.cymdeithasaberaeron.org/sbooks.html bibliography]
* [http://tourism.ceredigion.gov.uk/saesneg/aberaeron.htm Official tourism website]
* [http://www.cambrian-news.co.uk/your-community/g/31/ Website of the local ''Cambrian News'']
* [http://www.gtj.org.uk/en/item1/11288 Aerial photograph of Aberaeron]
* [http://www.geograph.org.uk/search.php?i=3089625 www.geograph.co.uk : photos of Aberaeron and surrounding area]
* [http://www.aberaeron-westwales.co.uk/history.htm The History of Aberaeron] At Aberaeron West Wales
* [http://www.gatehouse-gazetteer.info/Welshsites/129.html Castell Cadwgan, Aberaeron site]

[[Category:Cardigan Bay]]
[[Category:Coast of Ceredigion]]
[[Category:Towns in Ceredigion]]
[[Category:Populated coastal places in Wales]]
[[Category:Welsh county towns]]
[[Category:Post towns in the SA postcode area]]

{{Ceredigion}}

Aberdaron

2013-06-05T02:22:13Z

Hazard-Bot: Robot: Added link to Wikivoyage

{{Use British English|date=January 2013}}
{{Infobox UK place
|country = Wales
|latitude = 52.808
|longitude = -4.710
|official_name = Aberdaron
|welsh_name =
|population = 1,019
|population_ref = ''(2001)''
|static_image_name = Aberdaeron general view, Wales.JPG
|static_image_caption = The Tŷ Newydd Hotel on the beach at Aberdaron
|static_image_alt = 
|static_image_2_name =
|static_image_2_width =
|static_image_2_caption =
|static_image_2_alt = 
|unitary_wales = [[Gwynedd]]
|lieutenancy_wales = [[Gwynedd]]
|constituency_welsh_assembly = [[Dwyfor Meirionnydd (Assembly constituency)|Dwyfor Meirionnydd]]
|constituency_westminster = [[Dwyfor Meirionnydd (UK Parliament constituency)|Dwyfor Meirionnydd]]
|community_wales = Aberdaron
|postcode_district = LL53
|postcode_area = LL
|post_town = PWLLHELI
|dial_code = 01758
|os_grid_reference = SH1726
|cardiff_distance =
}}

'''Aberdaron''' is a [[community (Wales)|community]] and former [[fishing village]] at the western tip of the [[Llŷn Peninsula]] ({{lang-cy|Penrhyn Llŷn}}) in the [[Wales|Welsh]] county of [[Gwynedd]]. It lies {{convert|14.8|mi|km}} west of [[Pwllheli]] and {{convert|33.5|mi|km}} south west of [[Caernarfon]], and has a population of 1,019.<ref name="population">{{cite web|url=http://www.neighbourhood.statistics.gov.uk/dissemination/viewFullDataset.do?instanceSelection=03070&productId=779&$ph=60_61&datasetInstanceId=3070&startColumn=1&numberOfColumns=8&containerAreaId=790560|title=Census 2001: Parish Headcounts: Gwynedd|publisher= Office for National Statistics|accessdate=16 August 2009}}</ref> It is sometimes referred to as the "Land's End of Wales" ({{lang-cy|Pendraw'r Byd}}).<ref name="tourist"/> The community includes [[Bardsey Island]] ({{lang-cy|Ynys Enlli}}), the coastal area around Porthor, and the villages of Anelog, [[Llanfaelrhys]], Penycaerau, Rhoshirwaun, Rhydlios, Uwchmynydd and [[Y Rhiw]].<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.election-maps.co.uk/index.jsp|title= Ordnance Survey: ''Election Maps: Gwynedd'' |publisher=[[Ordnance Survey]]|accessdate=16 August 2009}}</ref>

The village was the last rest stop for pilgrims heading to Bardsey Island, the legendary ''"island of 20,000 saints"''. In the 18th and 19th centuries it developed as a shipbuilding centre and port. The mining and quarrying industries became major employers, and [[limestone]], [[lead]], [[jasper]] and [[manganese]] were exported, and there are the ruins of an old pier running out to sea at Porth Simdde, which is the local name for the west end of Aberdaron Beach. After the Second World War the mining industry collapsed, and Aberdaron gradually developed into a popular holiday resort.<ref name="penllyn"/> The beach was awarded a [[Seaside Award]] in 2008.<ref name="seaside award">{{cite web |url=http://www.gwynedd.gov.uk/gwy_doc.asp?cat=2706&doc=9177&Language=1 |publisher=Cyngor Gwynedd |title=Beautiful Beaches and Clean Seas |accessdate=16 August 2009}}</ref>

The coastal waters are part of Pen Llŷn a'r Sarnau Special Area of Conservation ({{lang-cy|Ardal Cadwraeth Arbennig Pen Llŷn a'r Sarnau}}), one of the largest marine designated sites in the United Kingdom.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.penllynarsarnau.co.uk/ |publisher=Ardal Cadwraeth Arbennig Pen Llŷn a'r Sarnau |title=Welcome to Pen Llŷn a'r Sarnau |accessdate=16 August 2009}}</ref> The coast itself forms part of the Aberdaron Coast and Bardsey Island Special Protection Area ({{lang-cy|Ardal Gwarchodaeth Arbennig Glannau Aberdaron ac Ynys Enlli}}),<ref name="protection"/> and was designated a [[Heritage Coast (England and Wales)|Heritage Coast]] in 1974.<ref name="assessment">{{cite web |url=http://www.ahne-llyn-aonb.org/content/uploads/pdf/anassessment.pdf |publisher=Llŷn Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty |title=Management Plan: An Assessment of the Area and its Resources |accessdate=16 August 2009}}</ref> In 1956 the area was included in Llŷn Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty ({{lang-cy|Ardal o Harddwch Naturiol Eithriadol Llŷn}}).<ref name="aonbs">{{cite web |url=http://www.aonb.org.uk/wba/naaonb/naaonbpreview.nsf/Web%20Default%20Frameset?OpenFrameSet&Frame=Main&Src=%2Fwba%2Fnaaonb%2Fnaaonbpreview.nsf%2F%24LU.WebHomePage%2F%24first!OpenDocument%26AutoFramed |publisher=The National Association for AONBs |title=Areas of Outstanding Natural Beauty: Llŷn AONB |accessdate=16 August 2009}}</ref><ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.ahne-llyn-aonb.org/about-2.aspx |publisher=Llŷn Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty |title=Llŷn AONB |accessdate=16 August 2009}}</ref> [[Conservation Areas]] have been created in Aberdaron, Bardsey Island and Y Rhiw;<ref name="assessment"/> and the area has been designated a Landscape of Historic Interest.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.cadw.wales.gov.uk/upload/resourcepool/Guide_to_Good_Practice_ENG7930.pdf |publisher=Cadw |title=Guide to Good Practice on Using the Register of Landscapes of Historic Interest in Wales in the Planning and Development Process |accessdate=16 August 2009}}</ref>

==Etymology==
{{Wikivoyage|Aberdaron}}
''Aberdaron'' means "Mouth of the Daron River", a reference to the Afon Daron ({{lang-en|River Daron}}) which flows into Bae Aberdaron ({{lang-en|Aberdaron Bay}}) in the village.<ref>{{Harvnb|Mills|2003|p=1}}</ref>

==History==
Evidence from one of the most important archaeological sites in Wales, the [[Iron Age]] [[hillforts in Britain|hillfort]] at Castell Odo, on Mynydd Ystum, suggests that the area around Aberdaron was colonised early, as a wave of [[Celts|Celtic]] settlers explored the [[Irish Sea]] ({{lang-cy|Môr Iwerddon}}), probably around the 4th century BC. The construction was wholly defensive, but in later phases defence appears to have been less important, and in the last phase the fort's ramparts were deliberately flattened, suggesting there was no longer a need for defence. It appears that Aberdaron became a peaceful farming community. [[Ptolemy]] calls the [[Llŷn Peninsula]] ''"Ganganorum Promontorium"'' ({{lang-en|Peninsula of the Gangani}}); the [[Gangani]] were a tribe of Irish Celts, and it is thought there may have been strong ties with [[Leinster]].<ref>{{Harvnb|Sale|2006|p=55}}</ref>

[[File:Gruffydd ap Cynan.jpg|thumb|left|upright|After [[Gruffudd ap Cynan]], the [[Kingdom of Gwynedd|King of Gwynedd]], escaped imprisonment at [[Chester]], he sought sanctuary in St Hywyn's Church, and fled in the monks' boat.]]
The church at Aberdaron had the ancient privilege of [[Right of asylum|sanctuary]]. In 1094 [[Gruffudd ap Cynan]], the exiled [[Kingdom of Gwynedd|King of Gwynedd]], sought refuge in the church while attempting to recapture his throne; he escaped in the monastic community's boat to Ireland.<ref name="archaeological"/> He regained his territories in 1101, and in 1115 [[Gruffydd ap Rhys]], the exiled prince of [[Deheubarth]], took refuge at Aberdaron to escape capture by Gwynedd's ruler. [[Henry I of England]] had invaded Gwynedd the previous year, and faced by an overwhelming force, Gruffudd ap Cynan had been forced to pay homage and a substantial fine to Henry.<ref name="gazetteer"/> The King of Gwynedd, seeking to give up the exiled prince to Henry, ordered that the fugitive prince be dragged from the church by force, but his soldiers were beaten back by the local clergy; Gruffydd ap Rhys escaped under cover of night and fled south to join up with his supporters in [[Ystrad Tywi]].<ref name="topographical"/>

Following the conquest of Gwynedd, in 1284, [[Edward I of England|Edward I]] set about touring his new territories. He visited the castles at [[Conwy]] and [[Caernarfon]]. Court was held at [[Nefyn]], at which his new subjects were expected to demonstrate their loyalty; and he visited Aberdaron on his way to Bardsey Abbey.<ref>{{Harvnb|Koch|2006|p=703}}</ref>

After the [[English Civil War]], when the [[Roundhead|Parliamentarians]] under [[Oliver Cromwell]] introduced a strongly [[Protestant]] regime, [[Catholicism]] remained the dominant religion in the area. Catholics, who had largely supported the [[Cavalier|Royalist]] side, were often considered to be traitors and efforts were made to eradicate the religion. The persecution even extended to Aberdaron, and in 1657, Gwen Griffiths of [[Y Rhiw]] was summoned to the [[Quarter Sessions]] as a ''"papist"''.<ref name="thousand"/>

[[British Agricultural Revolution|Agricultural improvement]] and the [[Industrial Revolution]] came to Aberdaron in the 19th century. The [[Inclosure Acts|Inclosure (Consolidation) Act 1801]] was intended to make it easier for landlords to enclose and improve common land, introduce increased efficiency, bring more land under the plough, and reduce the high prices of agricultural production. Rhoshirwaun Common, following strong opposition, was enclosed in 1814; while the process was not completed in Aberdaron, Llanfaelrhys and Y Rhiw until 1861.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.heneb.co.uk/llynhlc/thematicessays/inclosures.html |publisher=Gwynedd Archaeological Trust |title=Parliamentary Inclosures |accessdate=16 August 2009}}</ref> On the industrial front, mining developed as a major source of employment, especially at Y Rhiw, where [[manganese]] was discovered in 1827.<ref name="penarfynydd"/>

During the Second World War, Y Rhiw played a vital role in preparations for the [[Normandy Landings]]. A team of electronic engineers set up an experimental [[ultra high frequency]] radio station, from where they were able to make a direct link to stations in [[Fishguard]] ({{lang-cy|Abergwaun}}) and [[Llandudno]]. The system employed a frequency that the German forces were unable to either monitor or jam, and was used in the 1944 landings.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.rhiw.com/hanes_pages/rhiw_snippets/snippets_4/snippets_4.htm |publisher=Rhiw |title=Snippets IV |accessdate=16 August 2009}}</ref>

==Governance==
[[File:WalesDwyfor1974.png|thumb|right|upright|Between 1974 and 1996, Aberdaron formed part of [[Dwyfor|Dwyfor District]].]]
Aberdaron, Bardsey Island, [[Bodferin]], Llanfaelrhys and Y Rhiw were [[Civil parishes in England|civil parish]]es in [[commote|Cwmwd Cymydmaen]] within [[Cantref Llŷn]], in [[Caernarfonshire]].<ref name="gazetteer">{{Harvnb|Hamilton1868|p=}}</ref> Following the [[Poor Law Amendment Act 1834]], parishes were grouped into "unions": Pwllheli Poor Law Union was created in 1837.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.archiveswales.org.uk/cgi-bin/anw/search2?coll_id=2952&inst_id=37&term=record?&L=0 |title=Caernarfon Record Office – Pwllheli Union Records|author= |publisher=Archives Wales |date= |accessdate=23 October 2010}}</ref> Under the [[Public Health Act 1848]] the area of the poor law union became Pwllheli Rural Sanitary District, which from 1889 formed a second tier of local government under Caernarfonshire County Council. Y Rhiw was absorbed into the smaller Llanfaelrhys in 1886;<ref>[http://www.ukbmd.org.uk/genuki/REG/districts/pwllheli.html "Pwllheli Registration District"]. Genuki. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref> and under the [[Local Government Act 1894]] the four remaining parishes became part of [[Llŷn Rural District]] ({{lang-cy|Dosbarth Gwledig Llŷn}}). Bodferin, Llanfaelrhys, and parts of [[Bryncroes]] and [[Llangwnnadl]], were amalgamated into Aberdaron in 1934.<ref>[http://www.visionofbritain.org.uk/relationships.jsp?u_id=10199980 "Aberdaron Civil Parish"]. A Vision of Britain Through Time. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref> Llŷn Rural District was abolished in 1974, and Bardsey Island was absorbed into Aberdaron to form a [[community (Wales)|community]] within [[Dwyfor|Dwyfor District]] ({{lang-cy|Dosbarth Dwyfor}}) in the new [[preserved counties of Wales|county]] of [[Gwynedd]];<ref>[http://www.ukbmd.org.uk/genuki/REG/districts/pwllheli%20and%20portmadoc.html "Pwllheli and Porthmadog Registration District"]. Genuki. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref> Dwyfor was abolished when Gwynedd became a [[unitary authority]] in 1996.<ref>[http://www.uk-legislation.hmso.gov.uk/RevisedStatutes/Acts/ukpga/1972/cukpga_19720070_en_41#sch4 "Local Government Act 1972: Revised: Schedule 4"]. Office of Public Sector Information. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref>

The community now forms an [[wards of the United Kingdom|electoral division]] of [[Gwynedd Council|Cyngor Gwynedd]] ({{lang-en|Gwynedd Council}}), electing one councillor; William Gareth Roberts of [[Plaid Cymru]] was re-elected in 2008.<ref>[http://www.gwynedd.gov.uk/gwy_doc.asp?cat=5773&doc=20638 "Dwyfor Ward Results"]. Cyngor Gwynedd. 1 May 2008. Aberdaron. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref> Aberdaron Community Council has 12 elected members, who represent three wards: Aberdaron De ({{lang-en|Aberdaron South}}), Aberdaron Dwyrain ({{lang-en|Aberdaron East}}) and Aberdaron Gogledd ({{lang-en|Aberdaron North}}). Ten [[Independent (politician)|Independent]] councillors and one from Plaid Cymru were elected unopposed in the 2008 election.<ref>[http://www.gwynedd.gov.uk/upload/public/attachments/924/STATEMENT_OF_PERSONS_NOMINATED1.doc "Community Councils: Statement of Persons Nominated"]. Cyngor Gwynedd. May 2008. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref>

From 1950, Aberdaron was part of [[Caernarfon (UK Parliament constituency)|Caernarfon]] parliamentary constituency.<ref>[http://www.guardian.co.uk/politics/constituency/779/caernarfon "Caernarfon: The 2005 general election"]. [[The Guardian]]. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref> In 2010, the community was transferred to [[Dwyfor Meirionnydd (UK Parliament constituency)|Dwyfor Meirionnydd]] constituency, represented by [[Elfyn Llwyd]] of Plaid Cymru. In the [[National Assembly for Wales]] it has, since 2007, formed part of [[Dwyfor Meirionnydd (Assembly constituency)|Dwyfor Meirionnydd]] assembly constituency, represented by [[Dafydd Elis-Thomas]], also of Plaid Cymru, who until 2011 was the [[Presiding Officer of the National Assembly for Wales|Presiding Officer]] of the assembly.<ref>[http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/shared/vote2007/welshasssembly_english/html/819.stm "Welsh Assembly Election 2007: Dwyfor Meirionnydd"]. [[BBC]]. 4 May 2007. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref> The constituency forms part of the [[National Assembly for Wales constituencies and electoral regions|electoral region]] of [[Mid and West Wales (National Assembly for Wales electoral region)|Mid and West Wales]].<ref>[http://www.bcomm-wales.gov.uk/fifth_review/finalrecs_nr_assemblyregions_e.pdf "Final Recommendations for the National Assembly for Wales Electoral Regions"]. Boundary Commission for Wales. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref>

==Geography==
[[File:Aberdaron-bridge-cyllyfelin.jpg|thumb|right|The bridge over the Afon Cyll-y-Felin was one of two built in 1823 in the centre of Aberdaron.]]
Aberdaron stands on the shore of Bae Aberdaron ({{lang-en|Aberdaron Bay}}) in a small valley at the confluence of the Afon Daron and Afon Cyll-y-Felin, between the headlands of Uwchmynydd to the west, and Trwyn y Penrhyn to the east.<ref name="archaeological">{{cite web |url=http://www.heneb.co.uk/llynhlc/llynhlcareasenglish/aberdaron3.html |publisher=Gwynedd Archaeological Trust |title=Aberdaron |accessdate=16 August 2009}}</ref> At the mouth of the bay stand two islands, Ynys Gwylan-Fawr and Ynys Gwylan-Fach, which together are known as Ynysoedd Gwylanod ({{lang-en|Seagull Islands}}).<ref name="penllyn">{{cite web |url=http://www.penllyn.com/1/compages/aberdaron/aberdaron.html |publisher=Pen Llŷn |title=Aberdaron Community Site |accessdate=16 August 2009}}</ref> The [[Llŷn Peninsula]] is a marine eroded platform, an extension of the [[Snowdonia]] ({{lang-cy|Eryri}}) massif, with a complex geology including [[Precambrian]] rocks.<ref name="aonbs"/> The coastline is rocky, with crags, [[scree]]s and low cliffs; heather covered hills are separated by valleys occupied by pastures.<ref name="protection">{{cite web |url=http://www.jncc.gov.uk/default.aspx?page=2058 |publisher=Joint Nature Conservation Committee |title=Aberdaron Coast and Bardsey Island |accessdate=16 August 2009}}</ref>

To the east, Mynydd Rhiw, Mynydd y Graig and Mynydd Penarfynydd form a {{convert|3|mi|km|adj=on}} long series of hog-back ridges of [[igneous]] rock that reaches the sea at Trwyn Talfarach. Above {{convert|800|ft|m}} the ridges are topped by hard [[gabbro]]. At its northern end Mynydd Rhiw rises to {{convert|1000|ft|m}}, the outcrop of Clip y Gylfinhir ({{lang-en|Curlew's Crag}}) looming above the village of [[Y Rhiw]]. Mynydd Penarfynydd is one of the best exposures of intrusive, layered, igneous rock in the British Isles.<ref name="penarfynydd">{{cite web |url=http://www.heneb.co.uk/llynhlc/llynhlcareasenglish/rhiw4.html |publisher=Gwynedd Archaeological Trust |title=Rhiw and Penarfynydd |accessdate=16 August 2009}}</ref>

[[File:Aberdaron - Islyn Bakery.JPG|thumb|left|upright|Islyn Bakery, built of [[Corrugated galvanised iron|corrugated iron]], is on the main road to [[Pwllheli]], which climbs steeply up the Daron valley.]]
East of Y Rhiw is an extensive low-lying plateau between {{convert|65|ft|m}} and {{convert|100|ft|m}} above sea level.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.heneb.co.uk/llynhlc/llynhlcareasenglish/neigwl5.html |publisher=Gwynedd Archaeological Trust |title=Neigwl |accessdate=16 August 2009}}</ref> The coastal rock is softer here, and the sea has been free to erode the rock and [[boulder clay]] to form sand, resulting in the spacious beach of Porth Neigwl ({{lang-en|Hell's Mouth}}).<ref name="coastal"/>

West of Aberdaron, four peaks rise above the rocky shoreline at Uwchmynydd. Mynydd Anelog stands {{convert|620|ft|m}} high, Mynydd Mawr at {{convert|490|ft|m}}, Mynydd y Gwyddel rises to {{convert|295|ft|m}} and Mynydd Bychestyn is {{convert|330|ft|m}} above sea level.<ref name="anelog">{{cite web |url=http://www.heneb.co.uk/llynhlc/llynhlcareasenglish/anelog8.html |publisher=Gwynedd Archaeological Trust |title=Mynydd Anelog, Mynydd Mawr, Mynedd y Gwyddel and Mynydd Bychestyn Enclosures |accessdate=16 August 2009}}</ref>

[[Bardsey Island]] ({{lang-cy|Ynys Enlli}}) lies {{convert|1.9|mi|km|0}} off Pen y Cil. The island is {{convert|0.6|mi|km|1}} wide and {{convert|1.0|mi|km}} long. The north east rises steeply from the sea to a height of {{convert|548|ft|m}}.<ref name="cycling">{{cite web |url=http://www.cyclingnorthwales.co.uk/pages/rte_aberdaron.htm |publisher=Cycling North Wales |title=Cycle Ride from Aberdaron |accessdate=16 August 2009}}</ref> The western plain, in contrast, comprises low, and relatively flat, cultivated farmland; in the south the island narrows to an [[isthmus]], connecting to a peninsula.<ref name="bardsey">{{cite web |url=http://www.heneb.co.uk/llynhlc/llynhlcareasenglish/Bardsey1.html |publisher=Gwynedd Archaeological Trust |title=Bardsey |accessdate=16 August 2009}}</ref>

The coast around Aberdaron has been the scene of many shipwrecks. In 1822, the Bardsey Island lighthouse tender was wrecked, with the loss of six lives; and in 1752, the schooner ''John the Baptist'', carrying a cargo of oats from [[Wexford]] to [[Liverpool]], was wrecked on the beach at Aberdaron.<ref name="daron"/> The sailing ship ''Newry'', with 400 passengers bound from [[Warrenpoint]] to [[Quebec City|Québec]], was wrecked at Porth Orion in 1880. The crew abandoned the passengers, leaving just the captain, ship's mate and one sailor, assisted by three local men, to lead 375 men, women and children to safety.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.rhiw.com/y_mor/shipwrecks/The_Newry.htm |publisher=Rhiw |title=The Newry |accessdate=16 August 2009}}</ref> A great storm swept the country on 26 October 1859 and many ships were lost: nine were wrecked at Porthor, seven of them with complete loss of life.<ref name="sea snippets">{{cite web |url=http://www.rhiw.com/hanes_pages/rhiw_snippets/snippets_about_the_sea.htm |publisher=Rhiw |title=Snippets About the Sea Around Llŷn |accessdate=16 August 2009}}</ref> On the south coast, vessels were often driven ashore at Porth Neigwl by a combination of south westerly gales and treacherous offshore currents.<ref name="Cantrell 2006 140">{{Harvnb|Cantrell|2006|p=140}}</ref> The ''Transit'' was lost in 1839, the ''Arfestone'' the following year, and the ''Henry Catherine'' in 1866.<ref name="sea snippets"/> The bay earned its English title, ''"Hell's Mouth"'', from its reputation for wrecks during the days of the sailing ship.<ref name="Cantrell 2006 140"/>

{{Weather box
|location = Abersoch
|metric first = yes
|single line = yes
|Jan high C = 8.0
|Feb high C = 8.0
|Mar high C = 9.0
|Apr high C = 11.0
|May high C = 14.0
|Jun high C = 17.0
|Jul high C = 18.0
|Aug high C = 19.0
|Sep high C = 17.0
|Oct high C = 14.0
|Nov high C = 11.0
|Dec high C = 9.0
|Jan low C = 3.0
|Feb low C = 3.0
|Mar low C = 4.0
|Apr low C = 5.0
|May low C = 8.0
|Jun low C = 10.0
|Jul low C = 12.0
|Aug low C = 12.0
|Sep low C = 11.0
|Oct low C = 9.0
|Nov low C = 6.0
|Dec low C = 4.0
|Jan precipitation mm = 83.8
|Feb precipitation mm = 55.9
|Mar precipitation mm = 66.0
|Apr precipitation mm = 53.3
|May precipitation mm = 48.3
|Jun precipitation mm = 53.3
|Jul precipitation mm = 53.3
|Aug precipitation mm = 73.7
|Sep precipitation mm = 73.7
|Oct precipitation mm = 91.4
|Nov precipitation mm = 99.1
|Dec precipitation mm = 94.0
|source 1 = The Weather Channel<ref>{{cite web |url=http://uk.weather.yahoo.com/climo/UKXX0193_c.html |publisher=The Weather Channel |title=Abersoch Weather |accessdate=17 August 2009}}</ref>
|date=August 2010
}}
 
Aberdaron is noted for low levels of air pollution. The Gwynedd State of the Environment Report in 2004 found levels of [[sulfur dioxide]], [[nitrogen dioxide]] and [[carbon monoxide]] very low, and [[Atmospheric particulate matter|particulates]] to be low.<ref name="assessment"/> It is one of the few sites in the United Kingdom for [[Teloschistes|golden hair lichen]], a striking bright orange lichen that is very sensitive to air pollution.<ref name="national"/> The climate is relatively mild and, because of the [[Gulf Stream]], frosts are rare in winter.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.llyn.info/info/ |publisher=Llŷn Info |title=Welcome to the Llŷn Peninsula |accessdate=16 August 2009}}</ref>

==Economy==
Sheep have been raised in the [[Llŷn Peninsula]] for over a thousand years, and Aberdaron has exported wool for many years. The main product locally was [[felt]], produced by soaking the cloth in water and beating it with large wooden paddles until the wool formed a thick mat which could be flattened, dried and cut into lengths.<ref name="wool">[http://www.rhiw.com/hanes_pages/gwlan/local_woollen_industry.htm "Local Woollen Industry"]. Rhiw. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref> There were two [[fulling|fulling mills]] on the Afon Daron, in addition to three [[gristmill|corn mills]],<ref name="archaeological"/> and [[lichen]] was gathered around [[Y Rhiw]], from which a grey dye was extracted.<ref name="wool"/> Arable crops consisted mainly of [[wheat]], [[barley]], [[oats]] and [[potatoes]].<ref name="topographical">{{Harvnb|Lewis|1849|pp=1–12}}</ref> The field boundaries date back several centuries and are marked by walls, ''cloddiau'' and hedgerows; important habitats for a variety of wildlife.<ref>[http://www.ahne-llyn-aonb.org/content/uploads/pdf/activities.pdf "Management Plan: Activities and Pressures"]. Llŷn Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref>

[[File:Aberdaron - Porth Neigwl 2.JPG|thumb|left|Two shipwrecked sailors were murdered on the beach at Porth Neigwl in 1742. Two local men from [[Y Rhiw]] were found guilty of the crime and hanged.]]
Wrecking and smuggling supplemented local incomes. In 1743 John Roberts and Huw Bedward from Y Rhiw were found guilty of the murder of two shipwrecked sailors on the beach at Porth Neigwl on 6 January 1742, and hanged; Jonathan Morgan had been killed by a knife thrust into the nape of his neck, and Edward Halesham, described as a boy, had been choked to death.<ref>[http://www.rhiw.com/hanes_pages/hells_mouth_1742/trial_notes.htm "Notes on the Murder at Rhiw: 6 January 1742"]. Rhiw. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref> A ship claimed to be from [[France]] unloaded illicit tea and brandy at Aberdaron in 1767, and attempted to sell its cargo to the locals;<ref name="daron"/> a Revenue cutter discovered salt being smuggled at Porth Cadlan in 1809; and a schooner en route from [[Guernsey]] to [[Scotland]] was reported to have offloaded lace, tea, brandy and gin at Y Rhiw in 1824.<ref>[http://www.rhiw.com/y_mor/smuggling/smuggling.htm "Smuggling in Llŷn"]. Rhiw. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref>

During the 19th century good quality [[limestone]] and a small amount of [[lead]] ore were quarried in the village.<ref name="gazetteer"/> [[Jasper]] was mined at Carreg;<ref>[http://www.edgeofwaleswalk.co.uk/section6.htm "Llangwnnadl to Mynydd Mawr"]. Edge of Wales Walk. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref> granite was quarried at Porth y Pistyll;<ref>[http://www.rhiw.com/y_mor/hanes_llongau_llyn/trwyn_dwmi_e.htm "Trwyn Dwmi"]. Rhiw. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref> and there was a brickworks at Porth Neigwl.<ref>[http://www.rhiw.com/hanes_pages/rhiw_snippets/snippets_8/snippets_8.htm "Snippets VIII"]. Rhiw. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref> The main source of income, however, was [[Atlantic herring|herring fishing]].<ref name="archaeological"/> A regular shipping service was operated to [[Liverpool]], exporting pigs, poultry and eggs; the vessels returned laden with coal for the neighbourhood.<ref name="topographical"/> Limestone was also imported and offloaded into the water at high tide, then collected from the beach when the tide went out. Lime was needed to reduce the acidity of the local soil, and [[lime kilns]] were built on the beaches at Porthor, Porth Orion, Porth Meudwy, Aberdaron and Y Rhiw to convert the limestone to [[quicklime]].<ref>[http://www.rhiw.com/y_mor/hanes_llongau_llyn/calch/lime.htm "The Lime Trade"]. Rhiw. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref> There was shipbuilding at Porth Neigwl,<ref>[http://www.rhiw.com/hanes_pages/rhiw_snippets/snippets_2/snippets_2.htm "Snippets II"]. Rhiw. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref> where the last ship, a [[sloop]] named the ''Ebenezer'', was built in 1841;<ref>[http://www.rhiw.com/y_mor/hanes_llongau_llyn/ebenezer/ebenezer.htm "Ebenezer"]. Rhiw. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref> and at Porthor, which came to an end with the building of a [[schooner]], the ''Sarah'', in 1842. Aberdaron's last ship, the sloop ''Victory'', had been built in 1792,<ref>[http://www.rhiw.com/y_mor/adeiladu_llongau/llyn.htm "Shipbuilding on Llŷn 2"]. Rhiw. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref> and the last ship to come out of Porth Ysgo had been another sloop, the ''Grace'', in 1778.<ref>[http://www.rhiw.com/y_mor/adeiladu_llongau/ship_building.htm "Shipbuilding in Llŷn"]. Rhiw. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref>

[[File:Aberdaron - Gwesty Tŷ Newydd.JPG|thumb|right|upright|The Tŷ Newydd Hotel is one of two hotels in Aberdaron that became popular among tourists seeking "the salubrious sea and mountain breezes".]]
The outbreak of the First World War resulted in a great demand for [[manganese]] as a strengthening agent for steel. Ore had been discovered at Y Rhiw in 1827, and the industry became a substantial employer in the village;<ref name="penarfynydd"/> over {{convert|113000|LT|t}} of ore were extracted between 1840 and 1945, and in 1906 the industry employed 200 people.<ref name="about">[http://www.rhiw.com/y_pentra/Rhiw_About.htm "About"]. Rhiw. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref>

Tourism began to develop after 1918. The first tourist guide to the village was published in 1910 and extolled the virtues of "the salubrious sea and mountain breezes";<ref>[http://www.rhiw.com/hanes_pages/aberdaron_1910/aberdaron_guide.htm "The First Tourist Guide"]. Rhiw. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref> in addition to the two hotels in the village, local farmhouses took in visitors, which provided an extra source of income.<ref>[http://www.rhiw.com/hanes_pages/Survey_1947/llyn_sociological.htm "1947"]. Rhiw. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref>

At the 2001 census, 59.4 per cent of the population were in employment, and 23.5 per cent were self-employed; the unemployment rate was 2.3 per cent; and 16.0 per cent were retired.<ref>[http://www.neighbourhood.statistics.gov.uk/dissemination/LeadTableView.do?a=3&b=323400&c=aberdaron&d=16&e=16&g=413213&i=1001x1003x1004&m=0&r=1&s=1248691139678&enc=1&dsFamilyId=107 "Census 2001: Economic Activity: Lower Layer Super Output Area: Gwynedd 014A"]. Office for National Statistics. 18 November 2004. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref> Of those employed, 17.7 per cent worked in agriculture; 15.8 per cent in the wholesale and retail trades; 10.7 per cent in construction; and 10.5 per cent in education.<ref>[http://www.neighbourhood.statistics.gov.uk/dissemination/LeadTableView.do?a=7&b=323400&c=aberdaron&d=16&e=16&g=413213&i=1001x1003x1004&o=1&m=0&r=1&s=1287810111972&enc=1&dsFamilyId=119 "Census 2001: Industry of Employment: Lower Layer Super Output Area: Gwynedd 014A"]. Office for National Statistics. 18 November 2004. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref> Those working from home amounted to 32.3 per cent; 15.2 per cent travelled less than {{convert|6.2|mi|km|0}} to their place of work; and 23.6 per cent travelled more than {{convert|25|mi|km|0}}.<ref>[http://www.neighbourhood.statistics.gov.uk/dissemination/LeadTableView.do?a=3&b=323400&c=aberdaron&d=16&e=16&g=413213&i=1001x1003x1004&m=0&r=1&s=1248691139678&enc=1&dsFamilyId=121 "Census 2001: Distance Travelled to Work: Lower Layer Super Output Area: Gwynedd 014A"]. Office for National Statistics. 18 November 2004. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref> The community is included in Pwllheli and Llŷn Regeneration Area and was identified in the Welsh Index of Multiple Deprivation 2005 as the electoral division in [[Gwynedd]] with least access to services; and was ranked 13th in Wales.<ref>[http://www.gwynedd.gov.uk/upload/public/attachments/992/Part_1b_Supporting_Document.pdf "Gwynedd Regeneration Strategy 2007–2013"]. Cyngor Gwynedd. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref> An agricultural census in 2000 recorded 33,562 sheep, 4,380 calves, 881 beef cattle, 607 dairy cattle, and 18 pigs; there were {{convert|310|acre|ha}} of growing crops.<ref>[http://www.ahne-llyn-aonb.org/content/uploads/pdf/appendices.pdf "Management Plan: Appendices"]. Llŷn Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref>

==Demography==
Aberdaron had a population of 1,019 in 2001,<ref name="population"/> of which 20.6 per cent were below the age of 16, and 18.7 per cent were over 64 years of age.<ref>[http://www.neighbourhood.statistics.gov.uk/dissemination/LeadTableView.do?a=3&b=801508&c=aberdaron&d=16&e=15&g=413213&i=1001x1003x1004&m=0&r=1&s=1248690472327&enc=1&dsFamilyId=781 "Census 2001: ''Parish Profile: People: Aberdaron Community"]. Office for National Statistics. 18 November 2004. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref> Owner occupiers inhabited 53.7 per cent of the dwellings; and 21.7 per cent were rented; 19.6 per cent were holiday homes.<ref>[http://www.neighbourhood.statistics.gov.uk/dissemination/LeadTableView.do?a=3&b=801508&c=aberdaron&d=16&e=15&g=413213&i=1001x1003x1004&m=0&r=1&s=1248690472327&enc=1&dsFamilyId=787 "Census 2001: "Parish Profile: Accommodation and Tenure: Aberdaron Community"]. Office for National Statistics. 18 November 2004. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref> Central heating was installed in 62.8 per cent of dwellings; but 2.4 per cent were without sole use of a bath, shower or toilet.<ref>[http://www.neighbourhood.statistics.gov.uk/dissemination/LeadTableView.do?a=3&b=323400&c=aberdaron&d=16&e=16&g=413213&i=1001x1003x1004&m=0&r=1&s=1248691139678&enc=1&dsFamilyId=157 "Census 2001: Amenities: Lower Layer Super Output Area: Gwynedd 014A"]. Office for National Statistics. 18 November 2004. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref> The proportion of households without use of a vehicle was 14.3 per cent; but 40.9 per cent had two or more.<ref>[http://www.neighbourhood.statistics.gov.uk/dissemination/LeadTableView.do?a=3&b=323400&c=aberdaron&d=16&e=16&g=413213&i=1001x1003x1004&m=0&r=1&s=1248691139678&enc=1&dsFamilyId=161 "Census 2001: Cars or Vans: Lower Layer Super Output Area: Gwynedd 014A"]. Office for National Statistics. 18 November 2004. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref> The population was predominantly white British; 97.8 per cent identified themselves as such;<ref>[http://www.neighbourhood.statistics.gov.uk/dissemination/LeadTableView.do?a=3&b=323400&c=aberdaron&d=16&e=16&g=413213&i=1001x1003x1004&m=0&r=1&s=1248691139678&enc=1&dsFamilyId=87 "Census 2001: Ethnic Group: Lower Layer Super Output Area: Gwynedd 014A"]. Office for National Statistics. 18 November 2004. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref> 71.9 per cent were born in Wales; and 26.9 per cent in England.<ref>[http://www.neighbourhood.statistics.gov.uk/dissemination/LeadTableView.do?a=3&b=323400&c=aberdaron&d=16&e=16&g=413213&i=1001x1003x1004&m=0&r=1&s=1248691139678&enc=1&dsFamilyId=85 "Census 2001: Country of Birth: Lower Layer Super Output Area: Gwynedd 014A"]. Office for National Statistics. 18 November 2004. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref>

{| class="wikitable" border="1" align="center"
! colspan="11" style="background:white"|'''Population change in Aberdaron'''
|- style="background:#9cc" '''table centered'''
|'''Year''' || '''1801''' || '''1811''' || '''1821''' || '''1831''' || '''1841''' || '''1851''' || '''1861''' || '''1871''' || '''1881''' || '''1891'''
|-
| Aberdaron || align="right"|1,141 || align="right"|1,442 || align="right"|1,234 || align="right"|1,389 || align="right"|1,350 || align="right"|1,239 || align="right"|1,266 || align="right"|1,247 || align="right"|1,202 || align="right"|1,170
|-
| Bardsey Island || || align="right"|71 || align="right"|86 || align="right"|84 || align="right"|90 || align="right"|92 || align="right"|81 || align="right"|84 || align="right"|132 || align="right"|77
|-
| Bodferin || align="right"|58 || align="right"|87 || align="right"|61 || align="right"|56 || align="right"|64 || align="right"|57 || align="right"|50 || align="right"|62 || align="right"|42 || align="right"|45
|-
| Llanfaelrhys || align="right"|224 || align="right"|246 || align="right"|262 || align="right"|258 || align="right"|236 || align="right"|255 || align="right"|208 || align="right"|198 || align="right"|186 || align="right"|490
|-
| Y Rhiw || align="right"|282 || align="right"|318 || align="right"|380 || align="right"|358 || align="right"|378 || align="right"|376 || align="right"|370 || align="right"|340 || align="right"|350 ||
|-
| '''Total''' || align="right"|'''1,705''' || align="right"|'''2,164''' || align="right"|'''2,023''' || align="right"|'''2,145''' || align="right"|'''2,118''' || align="right"|'''2,019''' || align="right"|'''1,975''' || align="right"|'''1,931''' || align="right"|'''1,912''' || align="right"|'''1,782'''
|- style="background:#9cc"
| '''Year''' || '''1901''' || '''1911''' || '''1921''' || '''1931''' || '''1951''' || '''1961''' || '''2001''' || ''' ''' || ''' ''' || ''' '''
|-
| Aberdaron || align="right"|1,119 || align="right"|1,106 || align="right"|1,075 || align="right"|983 || align="right"|1,275 || align="right"|1,161 || align="right"|1,019 || || ||
|-
| Bardsey Island || align="right"|124 || align="right"|53 || align="right"|58 || align="right"|54 || align="right"|14 || align="right"|17 || || || ||
|-
| Bodferin || align="right"|49 || align="right"|43 || align="right"|43 || align="right"|36 || || || || || ||
|-
| Llanfaelrhys || align="right"|499 || align="right"|495 || align="right"|449 || align="right"|385 || || || || || ||
|-
| Y Rhiw || || || || || || || || || ||
|-
| '''Total''' || align="right"|'''1,791''' || align="right"|'''1,697''' || align="right"|'''1,625''' || align="right"|'''1,458''' || align="right"|'''1,289''' || align="right"|'''1,178''' || align="right"|'''1,019''' || || ||
|-
| colspan="11" align="left" style="background:white;line-height:120%"|<ref>{{cite web|title=Enumeration Abstract: 1801: County of Caernarfon|url=http://www.histpop.org/ohpr/servlet/PageBrowser?path=Browse/Census%20%28by%20date%29&active=yes&mno=2&tocstate=expandnew&display=sections&display=tables&display=pagetitles&pageseq=479&zoom=4|work=Online Historical Population Reports|publisher=University of Essex|accessdate=20 November 2011}}</ref><ref>{{cite web|title=Observations and Enumeration Abstract: 1811: County of Caernarfon|url=http://www.histpop.org/ohpr/servlet/PageBrowser?path=Browse/Census%20%28by%20date%29&active=yes&mno=5&tocstate=expandnew&tocseq=6300&display=sections&display=tables&display=pagetitles&pageseq=first-nonblank|work=Online Historical Population Reports|publisher=University of Essex|accessdate=20 November 2011}}</ref><ref>{{cite web|title=Observations, Enumeration and Parish Register Abstracts: 1821: County of Caernarfon|url=http://www.histpop.org/ohpr/servlet/PageBrowser?path=Browse/Census%20%28by%20date%29&active=yes&mno=7&tocstate=expandnew&tocseq=6500&display=sections&display=tables&display=pagetitles&pageseq=first-nonblank|work=Online Historical Population Reports|publisher=University of Essex|accessdate=20 November 2011}}</ref><ref>{{cite web|title=Comparative Account of the Population: 1831: County of Caernarfon|url=http://www.histpop.org/ohpr/servlet/PageBrowser?path=Browse/Census%20%28by%20date%29&active=yes&mno=11&tocstate=expandnew&tocseq=5300&display=sections&display=tables&display=pagetitles&pageseq=first-nonblank|work=Online Historical Population Reports|publisher=University of Essex|accessdate=20 November 2011}}</ref><ref>{{cite web|title=Enumeration Abstract: 1841: County of Caernarfon|url=http://www.histpop.org/ohpr/servlet/PageBrowser?path=Browse/Census%20%28by%20date%29&active=yes&mno=17&tocstate=expandnew&tocseq=6800&display=sections&display=tables&display=pagetitles&pageseq=first-nonblank|work=Online Historical Population Reports|publisher=University of Essex|accessdate=20 November 2011}}</ref><ref>{{cite web|title=Population Tables: England and Wales: 1861: County of Caernarfon|url=http://www.histpop.org/ohpr/servlet/PageBrowser?path=Browse/Census%20%28by%20date%29&active=yes&mno=37&tocstate=expandnew&display=sections&display=tables&display=pagetitles&pageseq=206|work=Online Historical Population Reports|publisher=University of Essex|accessdate=20 November 2011}}</ref><ref>{{cite web|title=Population Tables: England and Wales: Registration Counties: 1871: Monmouthshire and Wales|url=http://www.histpop.org/ohpr/servlet/PageBrowser?path=Browse/Census%20%28by%20date%29&active=yes&mno=46&tocstate=expandnew&display=sections&display=tables&display=pagetitles&pageseq=578&zoom=3|work=Online Historical Population Reports|publisher=University of Essex|accessdate=20 November 2011}}</ref><ref>{{cite web|title=Historical Statistics: Population: Aberdaron|url=http://www.visionofbritain.org.uk/data_cube_page.jsp?data_theme=T_POP&data_cube=N_TOT_POP&u_id=10199980&c_id=10001043&add=N|work=A Vision of Britain Through Time|publisher=University of Portsmouth|accessdate=20 November 2011}}</ref><ref>{{cite web|title=Historical Statistics: Population: Bardsey Island|url=http://www.visionofbritain.org.uk/data_cube_page.jsp?data_theme=T_POP&data_cube=N_TOT_POP&u_id=10414209&c_id=10001043&add=N|work=A Vision of Britain Through Time|publisher=University of Portsmouth|accessdate=20 November 2011}}</ref><ref>{{cite web|title=Historical Statistics: Population: Bodferin|url=http://www.visionofbritain.org.uk/data_cube_page.jsp?data_theme=T_POP&data_cube=N_TOT_POP&u_id=10414362&c_id=10001043&add=N|work=A Vision of Britain Through Time|publisher=University of Portsmouth|accessdate=20 November 2011}}</ref><ref>{{cite web|title=Historical Statistics: Population: Llanfaelrhys|url=http://www.visionofbritain.org.uk/data_cube_page.jsp?data_theme=T_POP&data_cube=N_TOT_POP&u_id=10416747&c_id=10001043&add=N|work=A Vision of Britain Through Time|publisher=University of Portsmouth|accessdate=20 November 2011}}</ref><ref>{{cite web|title=Historical Statistics: Population: Y Rhiw|url=http://www.visionofbritain.org.uk/data_cube_page.jsp?data_theme=T_POP&data_cube=N_TOT_POP&u_id=10482215&c_id=10001043&add=N|work=A Vision of Britain Through Time|publisher=University of Portsmouth|accessdate=20 November 2011}}</ref>
|}

==Landmarks==

===Aberdaron===
[[File:Aberdaron - Y Gegin Fawr.JPG|thumb|upright|right|Y Gegin Fawr was built in the 13th century as a communal kitchen for pilgrims heading to [[Bardsey Island]]; it now serves as a tearoom.]]
Two stone bridges, Pont Fawr ({{lang-en|Large Bridge}}) and Pont Fach ({{lang-en|Small Bridge}}), built in 1823, cross the Afon Daron and Afon Cyll y Felin in the centre of Aberdaron. Beyond the bridges the road opens up to create a small market square.<ref name="archaeological"/> The Old Post Office was designed by [[Portmerion]] architect, [[Clough Williams-Ellis]].<ref name="tourist"/>

Y Gegin Fawr ({{lang-en|The Big Kitchen}}) was built in the 13th century as a communal kitchen where pilgrims could claim a meal on their way to [[Bardsey Island]].<ref>[http://www.aberdaronlink.co.uk/placestoeat/placestoeat.html "Places to Eat"]. Aberdaron and District Tourist Link. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref> Aberdaron was the last place on the route for rest and refreshment and pilgrims often had to wait weeks in the village for a chance to cross the treacherous waters of Bardsey Sound ({{lang-cy|Swnt Enlli}}).<ref name="tourist"/>

Next to the car park is a field, Cae y Grogbren ({{lang-en|Gallows Field}}), near which is a large red rock. In the Middle Ages, the abbot from the monastery on Bardsey Island visited the rock to dispense justice to local criminals; if they were found guilty, the wrongdoer would be hanged and thrown into Pwll Ddiwaelod ({{lang-en|The Bottomless Pool}}). The pool is a [[kettle lake]], formed at the end of the [[Ice Age]], when blocks of ice were trapped underground and melted to form round, deep pools.<ref>[http://www.bbc.co.uk/wales/northwest/sites/history/pages/bardseyredrock.shtml "Aberdaron's Rock"]. BBC. 31 March 2006. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref>

Above the village, on the Afon Daron, stands Bodwrdda, an early-16th-century stone-built house, which had a [[fulling]] mill adjacent; two large brick-built wings were added later, giving an imposing three-storey facade containing 17th-century windows. To the south, Penrhyn Mawr is a substantial late-18th-century gable-fronted farmhouse.<ref name="hinterland"/>

===Bardsey Island===
{{Main|Bardsey Island}}
[[File:Aberdaron - Carreg Bach, Ynys Enlli.jpg|thumb|right|The cottages on [[Bardsey Island]] ({{lang-cy|Ynys Enlli}}) have been restored by the Bardsey Island Trust ({{lang-cy|Ymddiriedolaeth Ynys Enlli}}), which bought the island in 1979.]]
[[Bardsey Island]] ({{lang-cy|Ynys Enlli}}), {{convert|1.9|mi|km}} off the mainland,<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.britannica.com/EBchecked/topic/53155/Bardsey-Island |title=Bardsey Island|publisher=Encyclopaedia Britannica on-line| accessdate=16 August 2009}}</ref> was inhabited in [[Neolithic]] times, and traces of hut circles remain. During the 5th century the island became a refuge for persecuted Christians,<ref name="saints">[http://www.bbc.co.uk/wales/northwest/sites/history/pages/bardseykingarthur.shtml "Island of 20,000 Saints"]. BBC. 31 March 2006. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref> and a small [[Celtic Christianity|Celtic]] monastery existed.<ref>[http://www.mysteriousbritain.co.uk/wales/gwynedd/folklore/bardsey-island.html "Bardsey Island"]. Mysterious Britain and Ireland. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref> [[Saint Cadfan]] arrived from [[Brittany]] in 516 and, under his guidance St Mary's Abbey was built.<ref name="pilgrim">{{cite web |url=http://www.bbc.co.uk/wales/northwest/sites/faith/pages/pilgrim_llyn_north.shtml?7 |publisher=BBC |title=Pilgrims: The Northern Path |accessdate=16 August 2009}}</ref> For centuries the island was important as ''"the holy place of burial for all the bravest and best in the land"''. Bards called it ''"the land of indulgences, absolution and pardon, the road to Heaven, and the gate to Paradise"'';<ref name="saints"/> and in medieval times three pilgrimages to Bardsey Island were considered to be of equivalent benefit to the soul as one to Rome.<ref name="aberdaron">{{cite web |url=http://www.aberdaronlink.co.uk/placestovisit/visit.html |publisher=Aberdaron and District Tourist Link |title=Places to Visit |accessdate=16 August 2009}}</ref> In 1188 the abbey was still a Celtic institution, but by 1212 it belonged to the [[Augustinian]]s.<ref name="archaeology"/> Many people still walk to Aberdaron and Uwchmynydd each year in the footsteps of the saints,<ref name="tourist">{{cite web |url=http://www.aberdaronlink.co.uk/about/about.html |publisher=Aberdaron and District Tourist Link |title=Aberdaron |accessdate=16 August 2009}}</ref> although today only ruins of the old abbey's 13th-century bell tower remain.<ref name="archaeology">{{cite web|url=http://www.ucl.ac.uk/archaeology/cisp/database/site/bards.html |publisher=University College London Institute of Archaeology |title=Bardsey Island |accessdate=16 August 2009}}</ref> A [[Celtic cross]] amidst the ruins commemorates the 20,000 saints reputed to be buried on the island.<ref>[http://www.edgeofwaleswalk.co.uk/history.htm "History"]. Edge of Wales Walk. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref>

The island was declared a [[National Nature Reserve]] in 1986,<ref>[http://www.bbc.co.uk/wales/northwest/outdoors/placestogo/reserves/bardsey.shtml "Bardsey Island"]. BBC. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref> and is part of Aberdaron Coast and Bardsey Island Special Protection Area ({{lang-cy|Ardal Gwarchodaeth Arbennig Glannau Aberdaron ac Ynys Enlli}}). It is now a favourite [[bird-watching]] location, on the migration routes of thousands of birds. Bardsey Bird and Field Observatory ({{lang-cy|Gwylfa Maes ac Adar Ynys Enlli}}), founded in 1953, nets and rings 8,000 birds each year to understand their migration patterns.<ref name="haven">[http://www.bbc.co.uk/wales/northwest/sites/bardsey/pages/bardseywildlife.shtml "Wildlife Haven"]. BBC. 3 May 2007. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref>

[[File:P puffinus griseus.jpg|thumb|left|Each year 7,000 pairs of [[Manx shearwaters]] come ashore under cover of darkness to nest on [[Bardsey Island]].]]
Bardsey Island Trust ({{lang-cy|Ymddiriedolaeth Ynys Enlli}}) bought the island in 1979,<ref name="bardsey"/> after an appeal supported by the [[Church in Wales]] ({{lang-cy|Yr Eglwys yng Nghymru}}) and many Welsh academics and public figures. The trust is financed through membership subscriptions, grants and donations, and is dedicated to protecting the wildlife, buildings and archaeological sites of the island; promoting its artistic and cultural life; and encouraging people to visit as a place of natural beauty and pilgrimage.<ref>[http://www.enlli.org/english/the_trust/thetrust.htm "The Trust"]. Bardsey Island Trust. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref> When, in 2000, the trust advertised for a tenant for the {{convert|440|acre|ha}} sheep farm on the island, they had 1,100 applications.<ref>{{Harvnb|Hole|O'Carroll|2007|p=246}}</ref> The tenancy is now held by the [[Royal Society for the Protection of Birds]];<ref>[http://www.rspb.org.uk/news/details.asp?id=tcm:9-189371 "News: Wildlife Wins on Bardsey Island"]. Royal Society for the Protection of Birds. 14 May 2008. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref> and the land is managed to maintain the natural habitat. [[Oats]], [[turnips]] and [[rutabaga|swedes]] are grown; [[goats]], [[domestic duck|ducks]], [[domestic goose|geese]] and [[chickens]] kept; and there is a mixed flock of [[domestic sheep|sheep]] and [[Welsh Black|Welsh black cattle]].<ref>[http://www.enlli.org/english/the_island/farming.htm "Agriculture"]. Bardsey Island Trust. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref>

===Llanfaelrhys===
{{Main|Llanfaelrhys}}
[[File:Aberdaron - Nant-y-Gadwen Manganese Mine.jpg|thumb|right|The manganese mine at Nant y Gadwen employed 200 people in 1906. The ore was used as a strengthening agent for steel.]]
Porth Ysgo, owned by the [[National Trust for Places of Historic Interest or Natural Beauty|National Trust]], is reached by a steep slope from [[Llanfaelrhys]], {{convert|3.3|mi|km}} east of Aberdaron, past a disused manganese mine in Nant y Gadwen;<ref name="tourist"/> the mine closed in 1927, and produced {{convert|45644|LT|t}} in its lifetime.<ref>[http://www.mindat.org/loc-145126.html "Nant Mine"]. Mindat. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref> Where the path from Ysgo reaches the beach, a waterfall, Pistyll y Gaseg, tumbles over the cliff. At the eastern end of the bay is Porth Alwm, where the stream from Nant y Gadwen flows into the sea.<ref>[http://argrwydr.com/pdf/WalkK.pdf "Penarfynydd"]. Cymunedau’n Gyntaf Pen Llŷn. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref> The south-facing beach is composed of fine, firm sand.<ref>{{Harvnb|Cantrell|2006|p=134}}</ref>

To the west, [[King Arthur]]'s last battle against his arch enemy, [[Mordred]], was supposedly fought in the fields around Porth Cadlan. Offshore lies a rock, Maen Gwenonwy, named after Arthur's sister.<ref name="cantrell">{{Harvnb|Cantrell|2006|p=132}}</ref>

Lladron Maelrhys are two large stones on the border between Llanfaelrhys and [[Y Rhiw]]. It is claimed that, years ago, thieves broke into St Maelrhys Church, intent on stealing money. Caught in the act, they fled for their lives but were caught as they approached Y Rhiw, and killed on the spot; the stones mark their burial place.<ref>[http://www.rhiw.com/pobol/rowland_williams/rowland_willlam_03.htm "Recollections by Rowland Williams: April 1946"]. Rhiw. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref> Another version claims that as they crossed the parish boundary they were turned to stone for their sacrilege.<ref>{{Harvnb|Cantrell|2006|p=136}}</ref>

===Porthor===
[[File:Aberdaron - Porthor.JPG|thumb|right|The beach at Porthor is part of a {{convert|420|acre|ha|adj=on}} coastal estate owned by the [[National Trust for Places of Historic Interest or Natural Beauty|National Trust]].]]
Porthor ({{lang-en|Whistling Sands}}) is a [[cove]] {{convert|3.2|mi|km}} north of Aberdaron that has smooth white sand; when dry, the sand whistles, or squeaks, underfoot.<ref>[http://www.gwynedd.gov.uk/gwy_doc.asp?cat=2706&doc=12601&Language=1 "The Coast"]. Cyngor Gwynedd. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref> The crescent-shaped beach is backed by steep cliffs of relatively hard rock, from which the cove has been sculpted by the rough seas. The bay is the centre of a [[National Trust for Places of Historic Interest or Natural Beauty|National Trust]] estate which consists of {{convert|420|acre|ha}} of shoreline, headland and farmland, and includes Mynydd Carreg and Mynydd Anelog.<ref name="porthor">[http://www.nationaltrust.org.uk/main/w-coastal_walk-porthor.pdf "Coastal Walk: Porthor to Mynydd Anelog"]. The National Trust. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref>

On the hill summits that dot the headlands are [[Calluna|heather]] and [[Ulex europaeus|gorse]], shaped by the prevailing wind; [[Armeria maritima|thrift]] and wild [[Thymus serpyllum|thyme]] thrive on the acidic soil. The cliffs are a stronghold of the [[Red-billed Chough|chough]], and a nesting place for [[razorbills]] and [[common guillemot|guillemots]]. On the lower rocks, in reach of the waves, are plentiful [[lichens]], [[seaweeds]], [[sponges]], [[limpets]] and [[barnacles]].<ref>[http://www.gwynedd.gov.uk/upload/public/attachments/890/Rhan5Llangwnnadl_i_Plas_yn_Rhiw1.pdf "Llŷn Coastal Path: Llangwnnadl to Plas yn Rhiw"]. Cyngor Gwynedd. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref>

[[File:Cottages at Anelog, Wales.jpg|thumb|left|The tombstones of two 5th-century priests were discovered at Anelog.]]
To the south are Dinas Bach and Dinas Mawr, twin peninsulas formed from weathered [[pillow lavas]] 600 million years old, thought to have been early fortified sites from the [[Iron Age]]. [[Black-legged Kittiwake|Kittiwakes]], [[Great Cormorant|cormorants]] and [[European Shag|shags]] can be seen on the cliffs, while farm birds such as the [[yellowhammer]] frequent the gorse.<ref name="porthor"/> On Mynydd Anelog, experimental plots have been marked out to monitor different methods of managing heather to discover the best way the habitat can be conserved for the future.<ref name="porthor"/>

North of Porthor is Porth Iago, a south-facing narrow inlet and rocky cove, which has a small beach and steep cliffs.<ref name="cycling"/>

===Rhoshirwaun===
[[File:Aberdaron - Capel Saron, Rhoshirwaun.jpg|thumb|right|Capel Saron at Rhoshirwaun was opened in 1903 by the [[Calvinistic Methodists]].]]
Rhoshirwaun lies {{convert|2.1|mi|km}} to the north east of Aberdaron, and was formerly a [[marsh]]y area.<ref name="hinterland">[http://www.heneb.co.uk/llynhlc/llynhlcareasenglish/aberdaron2.html "Aberdaron Hinterland"]. Gwynedd Archaeological Trust. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref> It provided fuel from peat cuttings, pasture for animals and accommodated squatters, mainly fishermen, who had encroached on the common with the tacit acceptance of the community. An [[Inclosure Acts|inclosure act]] was drawn up in 1802, designed to remove all squatters who had been there less than 20 years. Resistance to the evictions was fierce and was only suppressed by a contingent of [[dragoons]]. The act was finally applied in 1814; new roads were built across the moor; boundaries were established; allotments allocated; and wetland reclaimed.<ref name="rhoshirwaun">[http://www.heneb.co.uk/llynhlc/llynhlcareasenglish/rhoshirwaun9.html "Rhoshirwaun and Bryncroes"]. Gwynedd Archaeological Trust. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref>

Castell Odo, on Mynydd Ystum, is one of Europe's earliest Iron Age Settlements, standing {{convert|480|ft|m}} above sea level. The [[hillforts in Britain|hillfort]], {{convert|165|ft|m}} in diameter,<ref>[http://www.coflein.gov.uk/en/site/95305/details/CASTELL+ODO/ "Castell Odo"]. Royal Commission on the Ancient and Historical Monuments of Wales. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref> has visible traces of eight circular huts; pottery found on the site dates from 425 BC.<ref name="tourist"/> Legend has it that a giant, Odo Gawr, is buried under a cairn of stones on the summit; nearby is a huge rock known as Carreg Samson, supposedly thrown from Uwchmynydd by [[Samson]]. The holes in the rock are said to be the imprint of his fingers; a pot of gold reputedly lies underneath.<ref name="daron">[http://argrwydr.com/pdf/WalkJ.pdf "Daron"]. Cymunedau’n Gyntaf Pen Llŷn. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref>

To the east of the village, Felin Uchaf is an educational centre exploring ways of living and working in partnership with the environment. Developed on a redundant farm, it provides residential courses in rural skills and sustainable agriculture. A traditional [[Iron Age]] roundhouse has been built on the site.<ref>[http://www.felinuchaf.org/ "Education, Environment, Culture and Community: A Visionary Social Enterprise"]. Felin Uchaf. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref>

===Uwchmynydd===
[[File:Aberdaron - Coastguard Lookout, Mynydd Mawr.jpg|thumb|right|The Coastguard lookout on Mynydd Mawr now houses a mural created by local children.]]
Uwchmynydd, {{convert|1.8|mi|km}} to the south west of Aberdaron, has a long history of human settlement. [[Mesolithic]] flints have been found in the area, and a Neolithic stone axe was discovered on Mynydd Mawr. Hut circles are visible on the summits, and part of a [[Ancient Rome|Roman]] anchor was recovered off Trwyn Bychestyn.<ref name="anelog"/>

At Mynydd Mawr the [[picnic|picnic site]] has views which, on a fine day, take in [[Cardigan Bay]] ({{lang-cy|Bae Ceredigion}}), [[Bardsey Island]] and the [[Wicklow Mountains]] ({{lang-ga|Sléibhte Chill Mhantáin}}); at night, [[South Stack|South Stack Lighthouse]] ({{lang-cy|Goleudy Ynys Lawd}}) is visible in the distance.<ref name="tourist"/> A road to the summit, owned by the [[National Trust for Places of Historic Interest or Natural Beauty|National Trust]], was built during the Second World War to provide access to the heights, where men were posted to give early warning to [[Liverpool]] of [[Luftwaffe]] air raids.<ref name="gyntaf">[http://argrwydr.com/pdf/WalkH.pdf "Anelog"]. Cymunedau’n Gyntaf Pen Llŷn. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref> The former [[Her Majesty's Coastguard|Coastguard]] lookout point, manned for almost 80 years before becoming redundant in 1990, provides views over Bardsey Sound to the island. The hut contains an exhibition to the natural history of the area, and a mural created by local children.<ref name="mural">[http://www.craflwyn.org/iaith/saesneg/news.htm "Children’s New Mural at Llŷn’s Old Coastguard Hut"]. The National Trust. 2 April 2007. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref>

The headland at Braich y Pwll is the only known location on the British mainland of the [[Tuberaria guttata|spotted rock rose]],<ref name="national">[http://www.nationaltrust.org.uk/main/w-global/w-localtoyou/w-wales/w-wales-welsh_countryside/w-wales-llyn-peninsula.htm "The Llŷn Peninsula"]. The National Trust. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref> which produces bright yellow petals that last only one day.<ref name="mural"/> The coast here has open grass heath land and mountain, giving way to rugged sea cliffs and coves. There is a profusion of wildlife, and it is an ideal vantage point to watch the spring and autumn bird migrations. [[Red-billed Chough|Chough]]s, [[peregrine falcon]]s, [[common kestrel|kestrels]], [[Atlantic puffin|puffins]], [[European stonechat|stonechats]], [[common guillemot|guillemots]] and [[Manx shearwater]]s can be seen, and dolphins, porpoises and seals can be spotted in the water.<ref name="tourist"/>

[[File:Aberdaron - Porth Meudwy.jpg|thumb|left|Porth Meudwy is the traditional embarkation point for pilgrims heading to [[Bardsey Island]].]]
Above the sea cliffs are the remains of Capel Mair ({{lang-en|St Mary's Chapel}}),<ref name="interest">[http://www.gwynedd.gov.uk/upload/public/attachments/845/intro1.pdf "Llŷn Coastal Path: Some Places of Interest Along the Path"]. Cyngor Gwynedd. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref> where it was customary for pilgrims to invoke the protection of the [[Virgin Mary]] before making the dangerous crossing to Bardsey Island. At the foot of Mynydd Mawr is Ffynnon Fair ({{lang-en|St Mary's Well}}), the last stop for pilgrims crossing to the island; the well is a freshwater spring which is covered twice daily by the sea, emerging from the ebbing tide with crystal clear water.<ref name="tourist"/>

Cwrt ({{lang-en|Court}}), now a large farm, was the administrative centre of Bardsey Abbey's mainland estates, and was known as the "Court of Bardsey".<ref name="hinterland"/> The steepest cliffs in the [[Llŷn Peninsula]] are at Y Parwyd, the scene of a local ghost story. In 1794 a newly married couple moved into a cottage nearby. Within a few years they were disturbed by a phantom, but when they read a verse from the Bible, the phantom would retreat towards Y Parwyd and hover over the cliff edge before disappearing; the couple finally moved to [[Bodferin]]. In 1801 a ship pilot was put ashore on the rocks below the cliffs. Although very drunk, he managed to climb the cliff face and, reaching the top, fell asleep in a sheep pen. In the early morning, he awoke and, still drunk, headed for home; he walked in the wrong direction, however, and disappeared over the cliff edge into the sea.<ref name="parwyd">[http://argrwydr.com/pdf/WalkI.pdf "Parwyd"]. Cymunedau’n Gyntaf Pen Llŷn. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref>

The traditional embarkation point for pilgrims crossing to Bardsey Island was at Porth Meudwy ({{lang-en|Hermit's Cove}}), now a [[lobster fishing]] cove. Further south is Porth y Pistyll, which has good views of Ynysoedd Gwylanod, home to puffin and guillemot colonies; and Pen y Cil, where the [[Precambrian]] [[pillow lavas]] are exposed, revealing how they have been contorted over time.<ref name="mynydd">[http://www.nationaltrust.org.uk/main/w-coastal_walk-aberdaron_mynydd.pdf "Coastal Walk: Aberdaron to Mynydd Mawr"]. The National Trust. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref>

===Y Rhiw===
[[File:Bwlch y Garreg Wen cottage on Gallt y Rhiw - geograph.org.uk - 608372.jpg|thumb|right|Bwlch y Garreg Wen at [[Y Rhiw]], built in 1731, is a ''croglofft'' cottage, a type of agricultural worker's house found in [[Llŷn Peninsula|Llŷn]].]]
{{Main|Y Rhiw}}
The mountain-top hamlet of Y Rhiw is {{convert|3.9|mi|km}} to the east. There are fine views of [[Llŷn Peninsula|Llŷn]] towards [[Snowdonia]] ({{lang-cy|Eryri}}). On the slopes of Mynydd Rhiw is a late [[Stone Age]] burial chamber,<ref name="coastal">[http://www.gwynedd.gov.uk/upload/public/attachments/890/Rhan_6_______Plas_yn_Rhiw_i_Llanbedrog1.pdf "Llŷn Coastal Path: Plas yn Rhiw to Llanbedrog"]. Cyngor Gwynedd. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref> and Neolithic quarries.<ref>[http://www.rhiw.com/hanes_02/axe_factory/mynydd_rhiw_axe_factory.htm "Mynydd Rhiw Axe Factory"]. Rhiw. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref> Nearby on Mynydd y Graig are three [[hillforts in Britain|hillforts]], several hut circles and terraced fields that are thought to date from the late [[Iron Age]];<ref name="penarfynydd"/> in 1955 a [[Bronze Age]] [[cinerary urn]] was uncovered in the village.<ref>[http://www.rhiw.com/hanes_pages/rhiw_urn/urn.htm "Bronze Age Urn"]. Rhiw. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref>

[[Plas yn Rhiw]], owned by the [[National Trust for Places of Historic Interest or Natural Beauty|National Trust]], is an early-17th-century house that was restored by the Keating sisters in 1939, with advice from [[Clough Williams-Ellis]]. It is believed that the house is on or near the site of an earlier defended house, built by Meirion Goch in the 10th century to prevent incursions by [[Vikings]] into Porth Neigwl.<ref name="thousand">[http://www.rhiw.com/hanes_pages/plas_yn_rhiw.htm "Plas yn Rhiw: The First Thousand Years"]. Rhiw. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref>

==Transport==
Aberdaron lies at the western end of the [[B roads in Zone 4 of the Great Britain numbering scheme|B4413 road]]. The road runs east to [[Llanbedrog]], where it connects with the [[A499 road|A499]] [[Pwllheli]] to [[Abersoch]] road.<ref>{{cite web|title=Election Maps: Gwynedd|url=http://www.election-maps.co.uk/electmaps.jsf|publisher=Ordnance Survey|accessdate=21 November 2011}}</ref>

Buses are provided by two companies. Service 17 is operated by Nefyn Coaches, with six Monday to Saturday return journeys on the Pwllheli–Llanbedrog–[[Mynytho]]–Nanhoron–[[Botwnnog]]–[[Sarn Meyllteyrn]]–Penygroeslon–Rhoshirwaun–Aberdaron route. Two of the Aberdaron bound journeys divert through Bryn-croes. [[Arriva Buses Wales]] provide a late night return journey on Saturdays. Service 17 is supplemented by Nefyn Coaches service 17b, running return journeys twice a day, Monday to Saturday, largely over the same route, but with diversions to serve [[Penllech]] and Llangwnnad towards Aberdaron, or Penycaerau and [[Y Rhiw]] heading back to Pwllheli.<ref>{{cite web|title=Nefyn Coaches and Arriva: 17 and 17b: Pwllheli–Aberdaron|url=http://www.gwynedd.gov.uk/upload/public/attachments/1112/17_17B_Pwllheli__Aberdaron.pdf|publisher=Cyngor Gwynedd|accessdate=21 November 2011}}</ref>

The irregular Nefyn Coaches service 8b has an early morning weekday [[Nefyn]]–[[Tudweiliog]]–[[Llangwnnadl]]–Penygroeslon–Rhydlios bus, which operates only during school holidays. On Wednesdays throughout the year, a return journey runs the Rhydlios–Porth Or–Uwchmynydd–Aberdaron–Penycaerau–Y Rhiw–Botwnnog–Mynytho–Llanbedrog–Pwllheli route. On other weekdays a Nefyn–Tudweiliog–Llangwnnadl–Penygroeslon–Aberdaron–Uwchmynydd bus runs. On Wednesdays during school terms, an afternoon journey runs on the Y Rhiw–Botwnnog–Mynytho–Llanbedgrog–Pwllheli route. At weekends, a Saturday morning bus operates Nefyn–Dinas–Rhos-ddu–Brynmawr–Sarn Meyllteyrn–Pant–Uwchmynydd. This then makes a journey through the heart of Llŷn on the Uwchmynydd–Porth Or–Rhydlios–Pant–Sarn Meyllteyrn–Brynmawr–Rhos-ddu–Dinas–[[Llaniestyn, Gwynedd|Llaniestyn]]–Garnfadryn–Rhyd-y-clafdy–[[Efailnewydd]]–Pwllheli route, returning in the afternoon. It completes the day retracing its steps over the Uwchmynydd–Pant–Sarn Meyllteyrn–Brynmawr–Rhos-ddu–Dinas–Nefyn route.<ref name="nefyn coaches">{{cite web|title=Nefyn Coaches: 8b: Pwllheli–Nefyn–Rhydlios–Uwchmynydd|url=http://www.gwynedd.gov.uk/upload/public/attachments/1112/8B_Pwllheli__Nefyn__Rhydlios__Uwchmynydd.pdf|publisher=Cyngor Gwynedd|accessdate=21 November 2011}}</ref>

[[File:The easy way to disembark - geograph.org.uk - 904176.jpg|thumb|left|The passenger ferry arriving at [[Bardsey Island]] from Porth Meudwy. At low tide, the boat has to be hauled up to the boathouse by tractor before passengers can disembark.]]

On weekdays other than Wednesdays, Nefyn Coaches service 334 runs a morning Rhydlios–Porth Or–Uwchmynydd–Aberdaron–Penygroeslon–Llangwnnadl–Tudweiliog–Nefyn route. A second journey at midday operates from Uwchmynydd over the same route to Nefyn, and on to Pwllheli. Each weekday, an early evening bus runs the Penygroeslon–Rhydlios–Porth Or–Uwchmynydd route, while on Wednesdays during school holidays an afternoon Rhydlios–Botwnnog–Mynytho–Llanbedrog–Pwllheli bus runs.<ref name="nefyn coaches"/>

Bardsey Boat Trips ({{lang-cy|Mordeithiau Enlli}}) operates passenger ferries between Porth Meudwy and [[Bardsey Island]]. These are supplemented by Enlli Charters, who sail between Pwllheli and the island.<ref>{{cite web|title=Day Trips to Bardsey Island|url=http://www.bardseyboattrips.com/map_e.htm|work=Bardsey Boat Trips|publisher=Mordaith Llŷn|accessdate=21 November 2011}}</ref><ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.enllicharter.co.uk/enllicharter.htm |publisher=Enlli Charters |title=Day Trips to Bardsey Island |accessdate=21 November 2011}}</ref>

The nearest railway station is at Pwllheli, {{convert|14.8|mi|km}} to the east, on the [[Cambrian Coast Line]] ({{lang-cy|Lein Arfordir y Cambria}}) to [[Machynlleth]]. Services are provided by [[Arriva Trains Wales]] ({{lang-cy|Trenau Arriva Cymru}}), with some trains continuing to [[Shrewsbury]] and [[Birmingham]].<ref>{{cite web|title=Swansea to Shrewsbury, Cambrian Coast and Chester to Birmingham|url=http://www.arrivatrainswales.co.uk/1/|publisher=Arriva Trains Wales|accessdate=21 November 2011}}</ref>

==Public services==
Water and sanitation are provided by [[Welsh Water|Dŵr Cymru]] ({{lang-en|Welsh Water}}), owned by Glas Cymru, a [[company limited by guarantee]].<ref>[http://www.dwrcymru.com/ Dŵr Cymru] Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref> The [[Distribution Network Operator|electricity distribution company]] is [[Scottish Power]], a subsidiary of the [[Basque Country (autonomous community)|Basque]] utility [[Iberdrola]].<ref>[http://www.scottishpower.com/ Scottish Power] Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref>

[[Welsh Ambulance Services NHS Trust|Welsh Ambulance Services]] ({{lang-cy|Gwasanaethau Ambiwlans Cymru}}) provide ambulance and paramedic services;<ref>[http://www.was-tr.wales.nhs.uk/ Welsh Ambulance Services NHS Trust] Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref> and North West Wales NHS Trust ({{lang-cy|Ymddiriedolaeth GIG Gogledd Orllewin Cymru}}) is responsible for hospital services. The nearest community hospital is Ysbyty Bryn Beryl at [[Pwllheli]]; for 24-hour accident and emergency services the nearest provision is at Ysbyty Gwynedd in [[Bangor, Gwynedd|Bangor]].<ref>[http://www.northwestwales.org/WiSSCMS-en-196.aspx "Hospital Information"]. North West Wales NHS Trust. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref> The general provision of health services is the responsibility of Gwynedd Local Health Board ({{lang-cy|Bwrdd Iechyd Lleol Gwynedd}}).<ref>[http://www.wales.nhs.uk/sites3/home.cfm?orgid=273 Gwynedd Local Health Board]. 1 October 2009. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref>

Law enforcement is the responsibility of [[North Wales Police]] ({{lang-cy|Heddlu Gogledd Cymru}}), formed in 1967 as Gwynedd Constabulary.<ref>[http://www.north-wales.police.uk/nwpv2/en/home.asp "Neighbourhood Policing Teams"]. North Wales Police. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref> [[North Wales Fire and Rescue Service]] ({{lang-cy|Gwasanaeth Tân ac Achub Gogledd Cymru}}) was created in 1996 by the merger of the [[Gwynedd]] and [[Clwyd]] fire brigades; it provides public protection services, operating out of the fire station at [[Abersoch]].<ref>[http://www.nwales-fireservice.org.uk/page.asp?page=24&skey=6 "Stations: Abersoch"]. North Wales Fire and Rescue Service. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref>

==Education==
In the early 19th century there was a school for poor children, which moved in a four-year cycle between Aberdaron, [[Llanfaelrhys]], [[Bryncroes]] and [[Y Rhiw]].<ref name="topographical"/> The [[Elementary Education Act 1870]] provided for local school boards, but was opposed by the established church. The process of establishing boards was lengthy, and the government had to enforce the regulations in Aberdaron, Llanfaelrhys and Y Rhiw;<ref name="assessment"/> the [[National school (England and Wales)|national school]] opened at Y Rhiw in 1877 and had 74 pupils on its register; it closed in 1965.<ref>[http://www.rhiw.com/hanes_pages/education.htm "Education"]. Rhiw. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref>

[[Primary Education in Wales|Primary education]] is now provided by Ysgol Crud y Werin in Aberdaron, which has 54 pupils, and by Ysgol Llidiardau in Rhoshirwaun, established in 1880, which has 21 pupils.<ref>[http://www.gwynedd.gov.uk/upload/public/attachments/1015/MasterCyfrifiadCynraddMedi197520091.xls "Primary Schools' Census 1975–2009"]. Cyngor Gwynedd. Retrieved 8 October 2010</ref> At the last inspection of Ysgol Crud y Werin, by [[Estyn]] in 2008, there were no pupils entitled to [[free school meals]], and 84 per cent came from homes where Welsh was the main spoken language; Welsh is the main medium of teaching.<ref>[http://www.estyn.gov.uk/inspection_reports/ysgol_crud_y_werin_may_2008.pdf "Inspection under Section 28 of the Education Act 2005: Ysgol Crud y Werin"]. Estyn. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref> Ysgol Llidiardau was last inspected in 2009; 18 per cent of pupils were entitled to free school meals and 36 per cent came from homes where Welsh was the predominant language.<ref>[http://www.estyn.gov.uk/inspection_reports/ysgol_llidiardau_january_2009.pdf "Inspection under Section 28 of the Education Act 2005: Ysgol Llidiardau"]. Estyn. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref> Secondary school pupils mainly attend [[Botwnnog|Ysgol Botwnnog]].<ref>[http://www.gwynedd.gov.uk/gwy_doc.asp?cat=3217&doc=12928&Language=1 "Botwnnog Catchment Area"]. Cyngor Gwynedd. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref>

==Culture==
[[File:Dic Aberdaron.jpg|thumb|right|upright|[[Dic Aberdaron]] was born in Aberdaron in 1780. Despite very little formal education, he is said to have been fluent in 14 languages, and spent years travelling the country accompanied by his books and his cat.]]

Aberdaron is a predominantly Welsh-speaking community; 75.2 per cent of the population speak the language.<ref>[http://www.neighbourhood.statistics.gov.uk/dissemination/LeadTableView.do?a=3&b=323400&c=aberdaron&d=16&e=16&g=413213&i=1001x1003x1004&m=0&r=1&s=1248691139803&enc=1&dsFamilyId=197 "Census 2001: Welsh Language Skills: Lower Layer Super Output Area: Gwynedd 014A"]. Office for National Statistics. 18 November 2004. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref> A mobile library visits a number of sites in the community each week;<ref>[http://www.gwynedd.gov.uk/upload/public/attachments/990/bm20912.pdf "North Gwynedd Mobile Library Service"]. Cyngor Gwynedd. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref> and [[:cy:Llanw Llŷn|Llanw Llŷn]], a [[:cy:papur bro|papur bro]] published in [[Abersoch]], serves the area;<ref>[http://www.bbc.co.uk/cymru/gogleddorllewin/papurau_bro/llanw_llyn/ "Papurau Bro"]. BBC. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref> the local English newspapers are the [[Caernarfon and Denbigh Herald]], published in [[Caernarfon]];<ref>[http://icnorthwales.icnetwork.co.uk/ourprint/weekly/content_objectid=11207460_method=full_siteid=50142_headline=-Herald-s-a-part-of-everyday-life-name_page.html "Our Newspapers: Caernarfon and Denbigh Herald"]. Trinity Mirror North West and North Wales. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref> and the [[Cambrian News]], published in [[Aberystwyth]].<ref>[http://www.cambrian-news.co.uk/ Cambrian News]. Retrieved 8 October 2010</ref> Summer harp recitals and concerts are held in St Hywyn's Church;<ref name="hywyn"/> Gŵyl Pen Draw'r Byd ({{lang-en|The Land's End Festival}}) is a yearly event which includes beach side concerts and competitions on the shore, with an evening concert at Morfa Mawr Farm;<ref name="penllyn"/> Gŵyl Pentre Coll ({{lang-en|The Lost Village Festival}}), a festival of contemporary acoustic music, has been held since 2008 at Felin Uchaf in Rhoshirwaun;<ref>[http://www.abersochcottages.com/welsh-music/gwyl-pentre-coll.htm "Music Festival Returns to the Llŷn"]. Abersoch Cottages. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref> and a local [[eisteddfod]], Eisteddfod Flynyddol Uwchmynydd, is held at Ysgol Crud y Werin.<ref name="assessment"/><ref>[http://www.highbeam.com/doc/1G1-161949776.html "Eisteddfod Flynyddol Uwchmynydd Aberdaron"]. [[Liverpool Daily Post]]. 13 April 2007. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref>

The poet [[R. S. Thomas|Ronald Stuart Thomas]] was vicar of St Hywyn's Church from 1967 to 1978; when he retired he lived for some years in [[Y Rhiw]].<ref>[http://www.st-hywyn.org.uk/rsthomas.htm "R S Thomas"]. St Hywyn's Church. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref> An ardent Welsh nationalist who learnt to speak Welsh, his poetry was based on his religious faith. In 1995 he was nominated for the [[Nobel Prize in Literature]],<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.independent.co.uk/news/r-s-thomas-nominated-for-nobel-prize-1590561.html |title=R S Thomas Nominated for Nobel Prize|publisher=[[The Independent]]|date=9 July 1995|accessdate=16 October 2010}}</ref> and he was widely regarded as the best religious poet of his time.<ref>[http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/wales/942723.stm "R S Thomas, Wales's Outspoken Poet"]. BBC. 26 September 2000. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref> The subject of one of Thomas's poems, Richard Robert Jones, better known as "[[Dic Aberdaron]]", was born in the village in 1780. Despite very little formal education, he is said to have been fluent in 14 languages, and spent years travelling the country accompanied by his books and his cat.<ref>Thomas, R. S. [http://www.gtj.org.uk/en/small/item/GTJ18316/ "Gathering The Jewels: The Poem "Dic Aberdaron"]. Culturenet Cymru. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref>

[[File:Teloschistes flavicans1.JPG|thumb|left|The [[Teloschistes|golden hair lichen]], which is very sensitive to air pollution, is found in Aberdaron. The poet [[Dafydd Nanmor]] likened it to the colour of his loved one's hair.]]

William Rowlands won a prize at the [[National Eisteddfod]] in 1922, for an adventure story written for boys. The book, ''Y Llong Lo'' ({{lang-en|The Coal Ship}}) was published in 1924, and told the story of two boys who stow away on one of the ships that brought coal to Porth Neigwl.<ref name="snippets vi"/> The South African poet [[Roy Campbell (poet)|Roy Campbell]] published ''The Flaming Terrapin'', written in a "''croglofft'' cottage" above Porth Ysgo, in 1922;<ref>[http://www.rhiw.com/pobol/campbell/love_in_a_hut.htm "Love in a Hut"]. Rhiw. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref> he was considered to be one of the best poets of the period between the two world wars.<ref>[http://www.catholicauthors.com/roy_campbell.html "Roy Campbell: Bombast and Fire"]. Catholic Author. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref> Considered one of the most significant Welsh poets of the 15th century, [[Dafydd Nanmor]], in ''Gwallt Llio'', compared the striking yellow colour of the rocks at Uwchmynydd, covered by [[teloschistes|golden hair lichen]], to the colour of his loved one's hair.<ref>[http://www.bbc.co.uk/wales/northwest/sites/nature/pages/penllyn.shtml "Treasures of the Llŷn"]. BBC. 21 September 2006. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref> [[Lewys Daron]], a 16th-century poet best known for his elegy to friend and fellow poet [[Tudur Aled]], is thought to have been born in Aberdaron.<ref>{{Harvnb|Lake|1994|p=}}</ref>{{Page needed|date=October 2010}}

Yorkshire-born poet [[Christine Evans (poet)|Christine Evans]] lives half the year on [[Bardsey Island]] and spends the winters at Uwchmynydd. She moved to [[Pwllheli]] as a teacher and married into a Bardsey Island farming family. On maternity leave in 1976, she started writing poems; her first book was published seven years later. ''Cometary Phrases'' was Welsh Book of the Year 1989 and she was the winner of the inaugural Roland Mathias Prize in 2005.<ref>[http://www.gomer.co.uk/gomer/en/gomer.ViewAuthor/authorBio/130 "Author Biographies: Christine Evans"]. Gwasg Gomer. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref>

Edgar Ewart Pritchard, an amateur film-maker from [[Brownhills]], produced ''"The Island in the Current"'', a colour movie of life on Bardsey Island, in 1953; a copy of the film is held by the [[National Screen and Sound Archive of Wales]].<ref>[http://education.gtj.org.uk/film/filmitems.php?lang=en&id=30354 "Gathering the Jewels: Film: The Island in the Current, 1953"]. Culturenet Cymru. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref> A candle lantern, discovered in 1946 in a cowshed at Y Rhiw, is now displayed in [[St Fagans National History Museum]];<ref name="snippets vi">[http://www.rhiw.com/hanes_pages/rhiw_snippets/snippets_6/snippets_6.htm "Snippets VI"]. Rhiw. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref> and [[Iron Age]] pottery found at Castell Odo is on display at Gwynedd Museum and Art Gallery in [[Bangor, Gwynedd|Bangor]].<ref>[http://www.gtj.org.uk/index.php?id=5178&L=0 "Gathering the Jewels: Aerial Photograph of Castell Odo Iron Age Hillfort, Aberdaron, 1989"]. Culturenet Cymru. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref>

[[Dilys Cadwaladr]], the former school teacher on Bardsey Island, in 1953 became the first woman to win the Crown at the National Eisteddfod for her long poem ''Y Llen''; and artist [[Brenda Chamberlain (artist)|Brenda Chamberlain]] twice won the Gold Medal for Art at the Eisteddfod; some of the murals she painted can still be seen on the walls of Carreg, her island home from 1947 to 1962. Wildlife artist Kim Atkinson, whose work has been widely exhibited in Wales and England, spent her childhood on the island and returned to live there in the 1980s.<ref name="arts">[http://www.enlli.org/english/the_island/arts.htm "Enlli and the Arts"]. Bardsey Island Trust. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref>

Since 1999, Bardsey Island Trust has appointed an Artist in Residence to spend several weeks on the island producing work which is later exhibited on the mainland. A Welsh literary residence was created in 2002; singer-songwriter [[Fflur Dafydd]] spent six weeks working on a collection of poetry and prose.<ref name="arts"/> Her play ''Hugo'' was inspired by her stay, and she has produced two novels, ''Atyniad'' ({{lang-en|Attraction}}), which won the prose medal at the 2006 Eisteddfod; and ''Twenty Thousand Saints'', winner of the Oxfam Hay Prize, which tells how the women of the island, starved of men, turn to each other.<ref>[http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/wales/8066051.stm "Singer-songwriter Wins Book Prize"]. BBC. 24 May 2009. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref>

It was tradition for Bardsey Island to elect the "King of Bardsey" ({{lang-cy|Brenin Enlli}}), and from 1820 onwards he would be crowned by Baron Newborough or his representative;<ref name="kings">[http://www.cimwch.com/brenin_enlli/brenin_enlli.htm "Kings of Bardsey"]. Cimwch. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref> the crown is now kept at [[Merseyside Maritime Museum]] in [[Liverpool]], although calls have been made for it to return to Gwynedd.<ref>[http://www.guardian.co.uk/uk/2008/oct/05/wales.archaeology "Islanders Call for Return of Welsh Crown"]. The Guardian. 5 October 2008. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref> At the outbreak of the First World War, the last king, Love Pritchard, offered himself and the men of the island for military service, but he was refused as he was considered too old at the age of 71; Pritchard took umbrage, and declared the island to be a neutral power.<ref name="kings"/> In 1925 Pritchard left the island for the mainland, to seek a less laborious way of life, but died the following year.<ref>[http://www.enlli.org/english/the_island/island_history.htm "History"]. Bardsey Island Trust. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref>

Owen Griffith, a qualified pharmacist from Penycaerau, who was known as the "Doctor of the Wild Wart", used a traditional herbalist remedy to cure [[basal cell carcinoma]], also known as rodent ulcer; the remedy had supposedly been passed on to the family 300 years earlier by an [[Irish Traveller|Irish tinker]]. In 1932 a woman died while receiving treatment and, even though the [[inquest]] into her death found that no blame was apportioned to the treatment, the Chief Medical Officer for [[Caernarfonshire]] vociferously condemned the treatment in the press. Former patients came out in support of the pharmacist, and petitions were sent to the Department of Health demanding that a medical licence be granted to Griffith and his cousin.<ref>[http://www.rhiw.com/pobol/y_ddafad_wyllt_2.htm "Doctors of the Wild Wart"]. Rhiw. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref>

There are several folk tales of the [[Tylwyth Teg]], the [[fairy]] people who inhabited the area and an invisible land in [[Cardigan Bay]]. One tells of a farmer from Aberdaron who was in the habit of stepping outside his house before retiring to bed. One night he was spoken to by a stranger, who asked why the farmer was annoyed by him. The farmer, confused, asked what the stranger meant and was told to stand with one foot on the stranger's. This he did, and could see another house, just below his own, and that all the farm's slops went down the chimney of the invisible house. The stranger asked if the farmer would move his door to the other side of the house, which the farmer subsequently did, walling up the original door; from that day, the farmer's livestock flourished, and he became one of the most prosperous men in the area.<ref>[http://www.rhiw.com/chwedlae/Tylwyth_Teg/tylwyth_teg2.htm "Llŷn's Tylwyth Teg: Aberdaron"]. Rhiw. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref>

==Religion==
A church was founded in Aberdaron in the 6th century by Saint Hywyn, a follower of [[Saint Cadfan]];<ref name="edge">[http://www.edgeofwaleswalk.co.uk/section7.htm "Mynydd Mawr to Aberdaron"]. The Edge of Wales Walk. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref> it was a significant institution, a monastery and centre of religious learning, rather than simply a place of worship for the locals.<ref name="pilgrim"/> The present double-naved St Hywyn's Church ({{lang-cy|Eglwys Hywyn Sant}}), built in 1137 and known as ''"The Cathedral of Llŷn"'', stands above the shore and was on the pilgrim route to [[Bardsey Island]]. It contains a 12th-century [[Romanesque architecture|Romanesque]] arched door,<ref>[http://www.heneb.co.uk/llynhlc/thematicessays/religion.html "Religion and its Influence on the Landscape"]. Gwynedd Archaeological Trust. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref> and a square bell turret.<ref name="topographical"/> The church was extended in 1417 and abandoned in 1841, when the locals decided to build a new church, Eglwys Newydd, in the village; the new building, however, proved unpopular and the congregation returned in 1906. Inside is a display about the life and works of the poet, [[R. S. Thomas|Ronald Stuart Thomas]];<ref name="hywyn">[http://www.bbc.co.uk/wales/northwest/sites/bardsey/pages/st_hywyn.shtml "Saving St Hywyn's"]. BBC. 3 April 2006. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref> and in the churchyard stand Y Meini Feracius a Senagus ({{lang-en|The Veracius and Senacus Stones}}), the tombstones of two 5th-century Christian priests, found in the 18th century on farmland near Mynydd Anelog.<ref>[http://www.st-hywyn.org.uk/stones.htm "Stones"]. St Hywyn's Church. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref> In 2008 the church became the centre of controversy when the local vicar blessed a gay civil partnership, after approval by the local church council; the vicar was reprimanded by [[Barry Morgan]], the [[Archbishop of Wales]] ({{lang-cy|Archesgob Cymru}}). Referring to the archbishop's protests, the vicar stated ''"There was a bit of a to-do about it"''.<ref>[http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/wales/north_west/7631356.stm "Gay Blessing Vicar is Reprimanded"]. BBC. 23 September 2008. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref>

[[File:StHywynChurchAberdaron.jpg|thumb|left|St Hywyn's Church was built in 1137 on the site of a 6th-century religious foundation and is known as "The Cathedral of Llŷn".]]
The church at [[Llanfaelrhys]] is the only one in the United Kingdom dedicated to [[Saint Maelrhys]],<ref>{{Harvnb|Cantrell|2006|p=135}}</ref> the cousin of both Saint Cadfan and Saint Hywyn, who accompanied them to Wales from [[Brittany]]. Legend attributes the building of the church to a trader who landed a cargo of flour near Aberdaron during a famine; he used the profit from his sale to construct a small church for the locals. Much of the building is medieval; the font dates back to the 15th century; and there are plain hard wooden benches on the north side; on the south side are 19th-century wooden box pews.<ref>[http://www.st-hywyn.org.uk/maelrhys.htm "St Maelrhys' Church"]. St Hywyn's Church. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref> The graveyard contains the graves of the three Keating sisters, who restored Plas yn Rhiw.<ref name="thousand"/>

St Aelrhiw's Church at [[Y Rhiw]] was built in 1860 on the footings of an earlier church. It consists of a small nave and short chancel; aisles to the north and south; and has boulder-built walls and a slate roof. The churchyard contains the graves of some of the bodies that were washed up at Porth Neigwl during the first World War.<ref>[http://www.rhiw.com/hanes_02/adeiladau/aelrhiw/saint_aelrhiw.htm "Saint Aelrhiw"]. Rhiw. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref> Above Porth Iago is the site of the ancient St Medin's Church; now just a mound in the middle of a field, it was the parish church of Bodferin.<ref>{{Harvnb|Cantrell|2006|p=102}}</ref>

[[File:Nebo Independent chapel and chapel house, Y Rhiw - geograph.org.uk - 617233.jpg|thumb|right|Capel Nebo at [[Y Rhiw]] was built in 1813 for the [[Congregationalists]].]]
One of the first [[non-conformists]] in the area was Morgan Griffith of Y Rhiw. In 1745 he was brought before the court in [[Pwllheli]], where he was jailed for failing to renounce his beliefs. After his release he returned to Y Rhiw and began to preach again. Re-arrested, he was returned to a [[prison ship]] in England, where he subsequently died.<ref name="religion">[http://www.rhiw.com/crefydd/Crefydd.htm "Religion"]. Rhiw. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref> Two of the earliest non-conformist chapels in the Llŷn Peninsula were established at Penycaerau, in 1768, and Uwchmynydd, in 1770;<ref name="hinterland"/> the [[Congregational]]ists opened Cephas Independent Chapel in 1829;<ref>{{Harvnb|Rees|Thomas|p=187}}</ref> and Capel Nebo was built at Y Rhiw in 1813;<ref>[http://www.rhiw.com/crefydd/nebo_chapel/history_of_nebo_chapel.htm "The History of Nebo Chapel"]. Rhiw. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref> the [[Methodist Church of Great Britain|Wesleyan Methodists]] followed in 1832 at Capel Pisgah.<ref>[http://www.penllyn.com/1/gallery/rhiw/piscah.html "Capel Pisgah"]. Pen Llŷn. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref> By 1850 there were eight non-conformist chapels in Aberdaron; five in Y Rhiw; and one on Bardsey Island;<ref name="assessment"/> but more were to be built. The [[Calvinistic Methodists]] opened Capel Tan y Foel;<ref name="penarfynydd"/> and Capel Bethesda, the [[Baptist]] chapel at Rhoshirwaun, was built in 1904.<ref>[http://www.rhiw.com/crefydd/galltraeth_chapel.htm "Galltraeth Chapel"]. Rhiw. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref> Aberdaron is also home to a [[Seventh-day Adventist Church|Seventh-day Adventist]] youth camp named Glan-yr-afon, located {{convert|1|mi|km}} from the village centre.<ref>[http://www.aberdaroncamp.com/ Seventh-day "Welcome to Aberdaron Camp"]. Adventist Church. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref>

At the 2001 census 73.9 per cent of the population claimed to be [[Christian]] and 15.0 per cent stated that they had no religion.<ref>[http://www.neighbourhood.statistics.gov.uk/dissemination/LeadTableView.do?a=3&b=323400&c=aberdaron&d=16&e=16&g=413213&i=1001x1003x1004&m=0&r=1&s=1248691139771&enc=1&dsFamilyId=95 "Census 2001: Religion: Lower Layer Super Output Area: Gwynedd 014A"]. Office for National Statistics. 18 November 2004. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref>

==Sport==
Aberdaron hosts numerous [[regatta|sailing regattas]] featuring [[clinker (boat building)|clinker]] built boats unique to the area;<ref name="tourist"/> there is a popular regatta every August where the races are open to everyone.<ref name="penllyn"/> [[Recreational boat fishing|Sea angling]] trips are operated from Porth Meudwy, fishing for [[Pollachius pollachius|pollock]], [[Pollachius virens|coley]] and [[Atlantic mackerel|mackerel]]; [[wrasse]], [[European seabass|bass]], [[Mullet (fish)|mullet]] and [[Sea robin|gurnard]] are also possible.<ref>[http://www.bardseyboattrips.com/trips/fishing.htm "Your Ticket to Fish"]. Bardsey Boat Trips. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref> Bass and coley can be caught from the rocks at Porth Iago; and wrasse, pollock and mackerel are plentiful.<ref name="sea angling">[http://www.nwsa.ukf.net/list/lleyn.htm North "Llŷn Venues"]. Wales Sea Angling. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref> Access is difficult at Uwchmynydd, but pollock, mackerel, wrasse and [[European conger|conger]] are caught; [[spiny dogfish|huss]] are plentiful; and [[common ling|ling]] are found occasionally.<ref name="sea angling"/>

[[File:Aberdaron - Coastal Path, Porth Llanllawen.jpg|thumb|left|The Llŷn Coastal Path ({{lang-cy|Llwybr Arfordir Llŷn}}) stretches for {{convert|84|mi|km}} around the Gwynedd coast.]]
The village is a popular [[hiking|walking centre]] and lies on the Llŷn Coastal Path ({{lang-cy|Llwybr Arfordir Llŷn}}), which runs {{convert|84|mi|km}} from [[Caernarfon]] to [[Porthmadog]].<ref>[http://www.gwynedd.gov.uk/gwy_doc.asp?cat=3891&doc=14598&Language=1 "Llŷn Coastal Path"]. Cyngor Gwynedd. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref> [[Kayaking]] is possible from both Aberdaron and Porth Neigwl, and the south-facing "sunshine coast" is a major attraction; there are [[campsite|camping facilities]] for canoeists on the shores of Porth Neigwl. Tidal streams are generally weak, although landing conditions are tricky when there is wind or swell from the south.

The area has excellent [[underwater diving|diving]]. Underwater visibility at [[Bardsey Island]] extends to {{convert|66|ft}} and there is a rich variety of sea life; it is considered some of the best diving in [[Gwynedd]].<ref>[http://www.richardbufton.co.uk/Bardsey.html "Bardsey Island"]. Richard Bufton. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref> The Ynysoedd Gwylanod are particularly popular, and the wreck of the ''Glenocum'', in Bae Aberdaron, is excellent for novices, having a maximum depth of {{convert|26|ft}}; an extremely large [[European conger|conger eel]] lives in the lower section of the boiler openings.<ref>[http://www.richardbufton.co.uk/Aberdaron.html "Aberdaron Bay"]. Richard Bufton. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref> There is spectacular diving at Pen y Cil, where there is a slate wreck and an unusual cave dive; nearby Carreg Ddu is an isolated rocky island in Bardsey Sound, although care must be taken as there are strong currents.<ref>[http://www.richardbufton.co.uk/page9.htm "Cave and Slate Wreck Dive"]. Richard Bufton. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref>

[[File:Aberdaron - Beach.JPG|thumb|right|The beach at Aberdaron attracts both bathers and surfers; it received a [[Keep Wales Tidy|Seaside Award]] in 2008.]]
[[Sea bathing|Bathing]] is popular along the coast. Aberdaron Beach, facing south west, is sandy, gently shelving and safe; it received a [[Keep Wales Tidy|Seaside Award]] in 2008.<ref name="seaside award"/> Porthor also attracts bathers, and has sands which squeak when walked on;<ref>[http://www.gwynedd.com/locations.php?l=1 "Aberdaron"]. Gwynedd. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref> the beach at Porth Neigwl was awarded a [[Green Coast Award]] in 2009;<ref>[http://new.wales.gov.uk/topics/tourism/news/beaches/?lang=en "Beaches for the Discerning"]. Welsh Assembly Government. 11 May 2009. Retrieved 16 August 2009</ref>

Aberdaron Beach is a [[surfing]] and [[bodyboarding]] location for surfers of all levels, although it can be dangerous at high tide when the waves break directly onto boulders underneath the cliff.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.bbc.co.uk/wales/northwest/sites/surfing/pages/porthneigwl.shtml |title=Hell's Mouth|publisher=[[British Broadcasting Corporation|BBC]]|accessdate=16 August 2009}}</ref><ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.bbc.co.uk/wales/northwest/sites/surfing/pages/porthoer.shtml|title= Porth Oer|publisher=[[British Broadcasting Corporation|BBC]]|accessdate=16 August 2009}}</ref> The better surfers head for the northern end.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.walesdirectory.co.uk/tourist-attractions/Surfing/Wales8837.htm|title= Hell's Mouth Beach Surfing|publisher=Wales Directory| accessdate=16 August 2009}}</ref>{{-}}

==References==
;Notes
{{Reflist|colwidth=30em}}

;Bibliography
{{refbegin}}
*{{cite book |last=Cantrell |first=John |title=The Lleyn Peninsula Coastal Path: A Walking and Cycle Touring Guide |year=2006 |publisher=Ciccerone Press |location=Milnthorpe |isbn=978-1-85284-479-0}}
*{{cite book |last=Hamilton |first=Nicholas Esterhazy Stephen Armytage |title=The National Gazetteer of Great Britain and Ireland |year=1868 |publisher=Virtue and Company |location=London |url=http://www.genuki.org.uk/big/wal/CAE/Aberdaron/Gaz1868.html#NatGaz}}
*{{cite book |last1=Hole |first1=Abigail |last2=O'Carroll |first2=Etain |title=Lonely Planet: Wales |year=2004 |publisher=Lonely Planet Publications |location=Footscray |isbn=978-1-74059-424-0}}
*{{cite book |last=Koch |first=John T |title=Celtic Culture, A Historical Encyclopedia |year=2006 |publisher=ABC-CLIO |location=Santa Barbara |isbn=1-85109-440-7 |url=http://books.google.com/books?id=f899xH_quaMC&pg=PA703}}
*{{cite book |last=Lake |first=A Cynfael |title=Gwaith Lewys Daron|year=1994 |publisher=[[University of Wales Press|Gwasg Prifysgol Cymru]] |location=Cardiff |isbn=0-7083-1238-1}}
*{{cite book |last=Lewis |first=Samuel |title=A Topographical Dictionary of Wales |year=1849|publisher=S Lewis and Company |location=London |url=http://www.british-history.ac.uk/report.aspx?compid=47795}}
*{{cite book |last=Mills |first=A D |title=A Dictionary of British Place-Names |year=2003 |publisher=[[Oxford University Press]] |location=Oxford |isbn=978-0-19-852758-9}}
*{{cite book |last1=Rees |first1=Thomas |last2=Thomas |first2=John |title=Hanes Eglwysi Annibynnol Cymru Volume 3 |year=1871 |publisher= |location=Liverpool |url=http://www.genuki.org.uk/big/wal/CAE/Aberdaron/Hanes.html}}
*{{cite book |last=Sale |first=Richard |title=Best Walks in North Wales |year=2006 |publisher=Frances Lincoln |location=London |isbn=978-0-7112-2423-0}}
{{refend}}

==External links==
{{Commons category inline|Aberdaron}}
*[http://www.visionofbritain.org.uk/unit_page.jsp?u_id=10199980 A Vision of Britain Through Time]
*[http://www.british-history.ac.uk/search.aspx?query1=Aberdaron British History Online]
*[http://www.britishlistedbuildings.co.uk/wales/gwynedd/aberdaron British Listed Buildings]
*[http://www.genuki.org.uk/big/wal/CAE/Aberdaron/ Genuki]
*[http://www.geograph.org.uk/gridref/SH1726 Geograph]
*[http://www.historicaldirectories.org/hd/b1.asp Historical Directories]
*[http://www.neighbourhood.statistics.gov.uk/dissemination/LeadAreaSearch.do?a=3&c=mansergh&d=16&r=1&i=1001&m=0&s=1316216917594&enc=1&areaSearchText=aberdaron&areaSearchType=16&extendedList=true&searchAreas= Office for National Statistics]
*[http://www.rhiw.com/ Y Rhiw]

{{Gwynedd}}

{{Use dmy dates|date=January 2013}}

{{Good article}}

[[Category:Aberdaron| Aberdaron]]

Aberaeron

2013-06-05T02:21:14Z

Hazard-Bot: Robot: Added link to Wikivoyage

{{infobox UK place|
|country = Wales
|welsh_name=
|map_type=
|latitude = 52.24204
|longitude = -4.25921
|constituency_welsh_assembly= [[Ceredigion (Assembly constituency)|Ceredigion]]
|official_name= Aberaeron
|static_image_name=AberaeronHouses.jpg
|static_image_width=250
|static_image_caption=Houses on the quay
|static_image_alt=
|static_image_2_name=
|static_image_2_width=
|static_image_2_caption=
|static_image_2_alt=
|unitary_wales= [[Ceredigion]]
|lieutenancy_wales= [[Dyfed]]
|constituency_westminster= [[Ceredigion (UK Parliament constituency)|Ceredigion]]
|post_town= ABERAERON
|postcode_district = SA46
|postcode_area= SA
|dial_code= 01545
|os_grid_reference= SN458628
|population= 1,520
}}
'''Aberaeron''' ({{Derive|Welsh|Aberaeron|mouth of the [[River Aeron]]}}, [[Aeron (Celtic mythology)|Aeron]] being a Welsh god of war<ref>[http://www.bbc.co.uk/wales/whatsinaname/sites/placenametool/?q=Aberaeron&search.x=0&search.y=0 BBC Wales—What's in a name?]</ref>) is a [[seaside resort]] [[town]] in [[Ceredigion]], [[Wales]]. Situated between [[Aberystwyth]] and [[Cardigan, Ceredigion|Cardigan]], it is home to the headquarters of [[Ceredigion|Ceredigion County Council]]. The population was 1520 in 2001.<ref>[http://www.neighbourhood.statistics.gov.uk/dissemination/viewFullDataset.do;jsessionid=ac1f930c30d5b0975d9516744e64bcdae8b9d547c691?instanceSelection=03070&productId=779&$ph=60_61&datasetInstanceId=3070&startColumn=1&numberOfColumns=4&containerAreaId=790566 Office for National Statistics : ''Census 2001 : Parish Headcounts : Ceredigion'']</ref>

==History and design==
{{Wikivoyage|Aberaeron}}
The present town was planned and developed from 1805 by the Rev. Alban Thomas Jones Gwynne. The [[harbour]] he built operated as a [[port]] and supported a [[shipbuilding]] industry in the 19th century. A group of workmen's houses and a school were built on the harbour's north side, but these were reclaimed by the sea.<ref name=abertrail>[http://www.cymdeithasaberaeron.org/Aberaeron%20Walk.pdf Aberaeron 1807–2007: Aberaeron Town Trail, celebrating our heritage] Heritage Treftadaeth, 2007 (under building 1 - General Storehouse)</ref> Steam ships continued to visit the harbour until the 1920s but, in later years, it evolved into a small half-tide [[harbour]] for recreational craft. The estuary is also crossed by a wooden pedestrian [[bridge]].

Crafts were an important part of village life. Information recorded in trade directories shows that in 1830, although it was not yet fully developed as a port, there were in Aberaeron one woollen manufacturer, one bootmaker, one [[baker]], one [[Miller|corn miller]], one [[blacksmith]], one blacksmith and shovel maker, two [[shipwrights]], one [[carpenter]] and one [[hat maker]].<ref>Jenkins, J. Geraint. ''Ceredigion: Interpreting an Ancient County.'' Gwasg Careg Gwalch (2005) pg. 83.</ref>

In the late 1890s, a hand-powered cable car 'The [[Aeron Express]]' was built to ferry workers across the harbour when the bridge was demolished by floods. The structure was recreated in the late 1980s as a tourist attraction that ran until the end of summer 1994.

The [[architecture]] of Aberaeron is unusual in this part of rural Wales, being constructed around a principal square of elegant [[Regency style]] buildings grouped around the harbour. This was the work of [[Edward Haycock Snr|Edward Haycock]], an architect from Shrewsbury. Some of the architecture was of sufficient interest to feature on British postage stamps.<ref name=abertrail/>

==Castell Cadwgan==
Castell Cadwgan, a 12th-century [[ringwork]] fortification around a probable wooden structure, was located by the shore at Aberaeron, but has long since been claimed by the sea. Few traces remain today apart from some mounds of earth, the remains of the enclosure bank, most of the site having been eroded.<ref>[http://www.gatehouse-gazetteer.info/Welshsites/129.html Castell Cadwgan Aberaeron] at 'Gatehouse' medieval castles site</ref><ref>[http://www.bbc.co.uk/cymru/hanes/safle/lleol/tudalen/canolbarth_aberaeron.shtml BBC Website - Cymru Hanes - Aberaeron (in Welsh)]</ref>

In ''Wales Illustrated in a Series of Views'' by [[Henry Gastineau]], published in 1810, it states: "Near the town are some remains of an ancient fortress called Castell Cadwgan, thought to have been erected by king [[Cadwgan ap Bleddyn|Cadwgan]], about the year 1148." In ''A Topographical Dictionary of Wales'', published in 1833, Samuel Lewis similarly wrote : "On the sea-shore, near the village, is a circular encampment, designated Castell Cadwgan, and supposed to have been constructed by Cadwgan ab Bleddyn, about 1148." <ref>[http://www.aberaeron-westwales.co.uk Aberaeron West Wales] tourism site</ref> However, Cadwgan is recorded as having been killed in 1111.

''Welsh Minstrelsy: Containing the Land beneath the Sea'', published in 1824, states: "Just where [Sarn Ddewi] juts out from the shore is an old fort, called Castell Cadwgan."

==Location and features==
Aberaeron is located between Cardigan and Aberystwyth on the [[A487 road|A487]], at a junction with the [[A482 road|A482]] leading south-east to the university town of [[Lampeter]].

The shoreline consists of generally steep [[storm beach]]es of [[pebble]]s, although fine [[sand]] is visible at low [[tide]] levels. Aberaeron south beach was awarded the [[Blue Flag beach|Blue Flag]] rural beach award in 2005.<ref>[http://www.keepwalestidy.org/english/default.asp?Category=Default&NewsID=178&Menu=0.26.12.64.74.225 Blue Flag website]</ref> It contains the [[Harbourmaster Hotel]].

The [[climate]] is mild and [[temperate]], largely conditioned by the proximity of the relatively shallow [[sea]]. However, Aberaeron can suffer from occasional winter [[frost]]s when cold air descends the [[River Aeron|Aeron valley]] from the upland parts of Ceredigion.

The town is notable for the sale of [[honey]], honey [[ice-cream]] and, more recently, honey [[mustard (condiment)|mustard]].

70% of Aberaeron's inhabitants are able to speak [[Welsh language|Welsh]] according to the 2001 census.

A life-sized statue of a [[Welsh pony|Welsh cob stallion]] was donated to the town in 2005 by the Aberaeron Festival of Welsh Ponies and Cobs to denote the area as Welsh Cob country. It was created by [[sculptor]] David Mayer.

[[Dylan Thomas]]'s links with Aberaeron, New Quay and Talsarn have been documented by local author David N Thomas.<ref>Dylan Thomas: A Farm, Two Mansions and a Bungalow, Seren 2000. Also see http://undermilkwood.webs.com</ref> [[The Dylan Thomas Trail]] runs through Ceredigion, passing through Aberaeron and ending in New Quay<ref>The Dylan Thomas Trail, by D N Thomas, Y Lolfa, 2002</ref>

An annual carnival takes place on the Monday Bank Holiday in August. A colourful procession of floats and a carnival queen moves from the Quay to Alban Square.<ref>[http://www.aberaeron.info/carnival.htm Aberaeron Carnival] at aberaeron.info website</ref><ref>[http://www.bbc.co.uk/wales/mid/sites/aberaeron/pages/aberaeroncarnival_2009.shtml?1 Aberaeron Carnival 2009 pictures] at BBC West Wales</ref>

===Public transport===
A regular bus service links the town with [[Aberystwyth]], [[Lampeter]] and [[Carmarthen]], with several daily through services to [[Swansea]], [[Bridgend]] and [[Cardiff]].<ref>[http://www.ceredigion.gov.uk/utilities/action/act_download.cfm?mediaid=1061&langtoken=eng Arriva Cymru timetable]</ref><ref>[http://www.ceredigion.gov.uk/utilities/action/act_download.cfm?mediaid=984&langtoken=eng Aberystwyth to Cardiff four days weekly by coach] by Coach Travel Wales</ref> Another service connects with [[New Quay]], [[Aberporth]] and [[Cardigan, Ceredigion|Cardigan]] on Monday through Saturday.<ref>[http://www.ceredigion.gov.uk/utilities/action/act_download.cfm?mediaid=16122&langtoken=eng Arriva Cymru (ARR) - Brodyr Richards/[[Richards Bros]] (RB)] at ceredigion.gov.uk</ref> Railway service from the former [[Aberayron railway station]] was closed to passengers in 1951 and freight in 1965.

==Notable people==
*[[Ron Davies (photographer)|Ron Davies]], photographer
*Sir [[Geraint Evans]], opera singer, had a home in Aberaeron for more than 30 years

==Image gallery==
<gallery>
Image:Aeron2209e.JPG|The River Aeron
Image:Black lion2268e.JPG|The Black Lion Hotel, on Alban Square
Image:Harb2359e.JPG|Harbour at low tide
Image:Bridge2210e.JPG|Footbridge over the Aeron
Image:Harbour2263.JPG|Harbour and hills
Image:Workhouse2287e.JPG|Former workhouse
Image:Feathers2219e.JPG|The Feathers (former coaching inn)
File:Cob2220lg Aberaeron.JPG|Welsh cob statue
Image:MarketSt2208e.JPG|Market Street
Image:Street2218e.JPG|Georgian houses
Image:Northgate Toll House SN4663 073.jpg|Northgate Toll House, c. 1785
Image:Princes_avenue.JPG|Prince's Avenue
</gallery>

==References==

{{reflist|2}}

==External links==
{{commons category|Aberaeron}}
* [http://www.cymdeithasaberaeron.org/sindex.html Cymdeithas Aberaeron Society] with [http://www.cymdeithasaberaeron.org/stimeline.html historical timeline] and [http://www.cymdeithasaberaeron.org/sbooks.html bibliography]
* [http://tourism.ceredigion.gov.uk/saesneg/aberaeron.htm Official tourism website]
* [http://www.cambrian-news.co.uk/your-community/g/31/ Website of the local ''Cambrian News'']
* [http://www.gtj.org.uk/en/item1/11288 Aerial photograph of Aberaeron]
* [http://www.geograph.org.uk/search.php?i=3089625 www.geograph.co.uk : photos of Aberaeron and surrounding area]
* [http://www.aberaeron-westwales.co.uk/history.htm The History of Aberaeron] At Aberaeron West Wales
* [http://www.gatehouse-gazetteer.info/Welshsites/129.html Castell Cadwgan, Aberaeron site]

[[Category:Cardigan Bay]]
[[Category:Coast of Ceredigion]]
[[Category:Towns in Ceredigion]]
[[Category:Populated coastal places in Wales]]
[[Category:Welsh county towns]]
[[Category:Post towns in the SA postcode area]]

{{Ceredigion}}

Rocky Neck State Park

2012-12-02T00:29:34Z

Hazard-Bot: Bot: Replacing {{Wikitravel}} with {{Wikivoyage-inline}}

'''Rocky Neck State Park''' is a [[state park]] and [[beach]] in [[East Lyme, Connecticut]]. It includes the '''Rocky Neck Pavilion''' which is listed on the [[National Register of Historic Places]].

==History==
{{Inappropriate tone|date=June 2008}}
Rocky Neck is a {{convert|710|acre|km2|sing=on}} recreation spot located on [[Long Island Sound]] in the town of [[East Lyme]], [[Connecticut]]. The public now enjoys use of the park because of a few conservationists who secured the land in 1931, using their personal funds until the State Legislature authorized its purchase.<ref name="ct.gov">http://www.ct.gov/dep/cwp/view.asp?a=2716&q=325256#history</ref>

In the 1930s, relief agencies constructed the curved masonry building of native materials and crafted supporting pillars with wood cut from each of the state parks and forests.<ref name="ct.gov"/> Diverse trails within the park providewalks to the salt marsh and to such points of interest as Baker's Cave, Tony's Nose and Shipyard. Family camping within walking distance of saltwater bathing is also popular, with 160 wooded and open campsites offering vacationers overnight accommodations.

Bounded on the west by a [[tidal river]] and to the east by a broad [[salt marsh]], Rocky Neck was known to early inhabitants as a place of abundant fish and wildlife. Today, high spring tides allow schools of [[herring]] to swim into Bride Brook toward inland spawning grounds. The [[osprey]] is a frequent early summer visitor. In the fall, [[Crane (bird)|cranes]], [[herons]] and [[swan]]s wade among [[cattails]] and [[rose mallow]]{{dn|date=April 2012}}. Seasonal changes provide opportunities to fish for [[mackerel]], [[striped bass]], [[Tautog|blackfish]] and [[flounder]]. Rocky Neck state park has its own exit (exit 72) on the Connecticut portion of [[Interstate 95]]. This exit is for the Rocky Neck connector, which is designated as the [[unsigned highway|unsigned]] [[List of Special Service Roads in Connecticut|Connecticut Special Service Road 449]].<ref>http://www.kurumi.com/roads/ct/secretlist.html</ref>

==Pavilion==
{{Infobox NRHP
| name = Rocky Neck Pavilion
| nrhp_type =
| image =
| caption =
| location= Lands End Point, Rocky Neck State Park, [[East Lyme, Connecticut]]
| lat_degrees = 41
| lat_minutes = 17
| lat_seconds = 56
| lat_direction = N
| long_degrees = 72
| long_minutes = 14
| long_seconds = 48
| long_direction = W
| locmapin = Connecticut
| built = 1934
| architect = Barker,Russell F.; Et al.
| architecture = Rustic
| added = September 4, 1986
| area = {{convert|6.5|acre}}
| governing_body = State
| mpsub = Connecticut State Park and Forest Depression-Era Federal Work Relief Programs Structures TR
| refnum = 86001745<ref name="nris">{{NRISref|2009a}}</ref>
}}
The Rocky Neck Pavilion is a Rustic style building from 1934, designed by [[Russell F. Barker]] and others. It was built as part of depression-era work relief efforts. It was listed on the National Register of Historic Places in 1986. The listed area includes {{convert|6.5|acre|m2}}.<ref name=nris/>

==Wildlife==
Wildlife in the park include [[crane (bird)|crane]]s, [[egret]]s, [[heron]]s, [[osprey]]s, and [[gull]]s.

==See also==
{{Portal|Connecticut}}
*[[National Register of Historic Places listings in New London County, Connecticut]]

==Notes==
{{Reflist}}

==External links==
*{{Wikivoyage-inline}}
*[http://www.stateparks.com/rocky_neck.html Connecticut State Parks Site]
*[http://www.ct.gov/dep/cwp/view.asp?a=2716&q=325256 Department of Environmental Protection: Rocky Neck State Park]
*[http://www.cultureandtourism.org/cct/cwp/view.asp?A=2194&Q=306548 Rocky Neck Pictures]

[[Image:Rocky Neck Pavillion Kevin Pepin.jpg|left|thumb|700px|Pavilion at Rocky Neck]]
[[Image:Rocky Neck Pavillion View Kevin Pepin.jpg|left|thumb|700px|View from the Pavilion at Rocky Neck]]
[[Image:Tonys Nose Overlook Kevin Pepin.jpg|thumb|left|700px|View from Tony's Nose Overlook at Rocky Neck]]

{{Protected Areas of Connecticut}}

{{National Register of Historic Places}}

[[Category:East Lyme, Connecticut]]
[[Category:Connecticut state parks]]
[[Category:Long Island Sound]]
[[Category:Parks in New London County, Connecticut]]
[[Category:Beaches of Connecticut]]
[[Category:National Register of Historic Places in Connecticut]]
[[Category:Landforms of New London County, Connecticut]]
[[Category:Protected areas established in 1931]]
[[Category:Campgrounds in Connecticut]]

Rawene

2012-12-01T21:27:59Z

Hazard-Bot: Bot: Replacing {{Wikitravel}} with {{Wikivoyage-inline}}

{{Infobox settlement
|name = Rawene
|population_total = 438
|population_as_of = 2006
|coordinates_display = inline,title
|coordinates_region = NZ
|subdivision_type = Country
|subdivision_name = [[New Zealand]]
|subdivision_type1= Region
|subdivision_name1= [[Northland Region]]
|subdivision_type2= District
|subdivision_name2= [[Far North District]]
|pushpin_map = Northland
|latd = 35
|latm = 23
|lats = 46
|latNS = S
|longd = 173
|longm = 30
|longs = 18
|longEW = E
}}
'''Rawene''' is a town on the south side of the [[Hokianga]] harbour, in [[Northland Region|Northland]], [[New Zealand]]. [[List of New Zealand State Highways|State Highway 12]] passes to the south.<ref>{{cite book|title=The Geographic Atlas of New Zealand|year=2005|isbn=1-877333-20-4|author=Roger Smith, GeographX|publisher=Robbie Burton|nopp=true|page=map 22}}</ref> The town lies at the apex of a peninsula. A car ferry links it to [[Kohukohu]] and the northern Hokianga.<ref name=TeAra>{{cite encyclopedia|url=http://www.teara.govt.nz/Places/Northland/NorthlandPlaces/11/en|title=Hokianga district|encyclopedia=[[Te Ara Encyclopedia of New Zealand]]}}</ref>

The population was 438 in the 2006 Census, a decrease of 24 from 2001.<ref>{{NZ Quickstats|3500600}}</ref>

==History==
[[Image:Rawene from the water.jpg|thumb|Rawene viewed from the water]]
[[Image:Rawene building.jpg|thumb|This strange shaped building was originally a joinery factory making doors, windows and coffins. The ground floor is now a craft shop and gallery, upstairs is an art gallery.]]
Rawene started as a timber centre, with a mill and shipyards<ref>Most shipbuilding in the Hokianga occurred at [[Kohukohu, New Zealand]] and [[Horeke]]</ref> established in the early 19th century. An attempted settlement by the first [[New Zealand Company]] in 1826 failed.<ref name=TeAra /> Captain James Herd in 1822 had taken out the first shipment of [[Agathis australis|kauri]] from the Hokianga in his ship ''Providence''. In 1825 he returned as an agent for the company sailing the ''Rosanne'' in company with the ''Lampton'', and 60 settlers between the two vessels. They began at [[Stewart Island/Rakiura]] and sailed up the east coast, leaving Lampton as a place name in [[Wellington]], eventually rounding [[North Cape, New Zealand|North Cape]] to enter Hokianga - his old stamping ground. Herd negotiated to buy a vast tract of land.<ref>The deed lies in National Archives in Wellington, with a photocopy held by the Hokianga Historical Society.</ref> The deal was contested but for decades Europeans referred to the town as "Herd's Point".<ref>{{cite book|url=http://www.wcl.govt.nz/wellington/rosannachap8.html|chapter=Northern New Zealand|title=The Rosanna Settlers|last=McDonnell|first=Hilda|year=2002}}</ref> Later it was called "Hokianga Township", and in 1884 it became "Rawene", possibly to identify the post office and telegraph.<ref name=Irvine>{{cite book|title=Township of Rawene|last=Irvine|first=Jean|year=1976}}</ref>

The post office was operating by 1845 - one of eight in the country.<ref>{{cite encyclopedia|url=http://www.teara.govt.nz/1966/P/PostOffice/History/en|title=POST OFFICE - HISTORY|encyclopedia=[[Encyclopedia of New Zealand (1966)]]}}</ref>

[[Aperahama Taonui]], chief of [[Te Popoto]] hapū, is said to have operated a school at Rawene in the mid-19th century.<ref>{{cite encyclopedia|url=http://www.teara.govt.nz/1966/T/TaonuiAperahama/TaonuiAperahama/en|title=TAONUI, Aperahama|encyclopedia=[[Encyclopedia of New Zealand (1966)]]}}</ref>

[[James Reddy Clendon]], previously the [[United States Ambassador to New Zealand|United States Consul]] to New Zealand, settled in Rawene in 1862 and served as the local magistrate under the [[Native Circuit Courts Act]] until 1867.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.dnzb.govt.nz/dnzb/default.asp?Find_Quick.asp?PersonEssay=1C19|title=Clendon, James Reddy|publisher=[[Dictionary of New Zealand Biography]]}}</ref> His house still stands and is open to the public.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.historic.org.nz/places2visit/places2visit_northland.html#1|title=Northland Heritage Sites|publisher=[[New Zealand Historic Places Trust]]}}</ref>

By 1872, there were two hotels in Rawene, and two stores. There was a Wesleyan church, and the Roman Catholics owned a section. Von Sturmer was the Postmaster, Customs Officer and Magistrate.<ref>{{cite book|title=Remember the Hokianga|editor=Olive Harris and Chris Lancaster|isbn=978-0-473-11859-4|chapter=The Pioneers Reminisce - Memoirs of Alfred Cooke Yarborough|year=2006|page=162}}</ref>

During the [[Dog Tax War]] of 1898, Rawene was evacuated after the tax rebels threatened to march on the town.<ref>Alfred Cooke Yarborough in ''Remember the Hokianga'' p 164</ref> On 5 May 1898 120 men marched from Rawene to Waima to deal with the revolters, but the dispute was settled without them.<ref>{{cite encyclopedia|url=http://www.teara.govt.nz/1966/H/HokiangaAndHarbour/HokiangaAndHarbour/en|title=HOKIANGA AND HARBOUR|encyclopedia=[[Encyclopedia of New Zealand (1966)]]}}</ref>

A small cottage hospital was built on a hill overlooking the town in 1910.<ref>{{cite encyclopedia|url=http://www.teara.govt.nz/Places/Northland/Northland/13/ENZ-Resources/Standard/2/en|title=Northland - Hospital services|encyclopedia=[[Te Ara Encyclopedia of New Zealand]]}}</ref> A new hospital was completed in 1928.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.hokiangahealth.org.nz/system/showpage.asp?section=history&page=the_hospital_in_1928.xml|title=History: The Hospital in 1928|publisher=Hokianga Health Enterprise Trust}}</ref> Dr [[George McCall Smith]] headed the hospital from 1914 to 1948 and developed a unique health system for the Hokianga.<ref>{{cite book|title=A Northland Legend: Dr G.M. Smith of Rawene 1883 – 1958|last=Parkes|first=W. F.|publisher=[[The Auckland Medical History Society]]|month=August | year=2004|isbn=0-476-00851-4}}</ref>

Dr Smith became a practitioner of 'painless childbirth' in the early 1930s, using premedication with the barbiturate [[Nembutal]] combined with hyosine. This proved very popular and attracted women to Rawene from far afield. The annual average of thirty births per year now peaked at two hundred. in 1937 a 'Commission of Inquiry into Rural Maternity Services' was established with Smith's practice as its primary concern. Smith fronted up with case notes on his last two hundred patients, and his results could not be bettered anywhere.<ref>Parkes, pp 18-19</ref>

The area was declared a special health area in the 1940s.<ref>The scheme was gazetted by Parliament on 1 September 1941, but it lay in limbo to September 1945 before a "trial period" could begin. By 1947 the hospital boards in Northland were amalgamated but Hokianga retained its special area - it was finally official.</ref> This meant that all medical officers in the Hokianga were salaried, and all consultations, pharmaceuticals, investigations and hospital admissions were free. The whole scheme was funded through a per capita grant.<ref name=TeAra /><ref>Parkes, pp 22-23</ref><ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.hokiangahealth.org.nz/system/showpage.asp?section=history&page=dr_g_m_smith.xml|title=History: Dr G M Smith|publisher=Hokianga Health Enterprise Trust}}</ref>

==Education==
[[Rawene School]] is a coeducational full primary (years 1-8) school with a [[Socio-Economic Decile|decile rating]] of 2 and a roll of 80.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.tki.org.nz/e/schools/display_school_info.php?school_id=1093|title=Te Kete Ipurangi - Rawene School|publisher=[[Ministry of Education (New Zealand)|Ministry of Education]]}}</ref>

A room for secondary students was added to Rawene Primary School in 1922. In 1947 a stand-alone Rawene District High School was built. It was extended in 1952, but was destroyed by fire in 1972.<ref name=Irvine /><ref>{{cite news|url=http://www.nzherald.co.nz/section/1/story.cfm?c_id=1&objectid=10378080|title=Arson suspected in two fires|publisher=[[The New Zealand Herald]] | date=20 April 2006}}</ref>

The Rawene Learning Centre is a campus of [[NorthTec]] polytechnic.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.northtec.ac.nz/campuses.asp?pageid=12|title=CAMPUSES : RAWENE|publisher=NorthTec}}</ref><ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.northtec.ac.nz/Pages/Rawene.aspx|title=Rawene|publisher=NorthTec|accessdate=4 March 2010}}</ref>

==Notable people==
*[[Norm Maxwell]], rugby union footballer and [[All Black]].
*[[Ron Guthrey]], mayor of Christchurch (1968 to 1971).
*[[Gordon Cochrane (pilot)|Gordon Cochrane]], WWII RNZAF bomber pilot.
*[[René Mary Shadbolt]], nurse in Spanish Civil War, Hokianga hospital matron

==Notes==
{{reflist}}

==External links==
*{{Wikivoyage-inline}}
*[http://www.communities.co.nz/rawene/ Rawene - Hokianga's Picturesque Port Town]
*[http://www.rawene.co.nz rawene.co.nz]

[[Category:Far North District]]
[[Category:Populated places in New Zealand]]

[[mi:Rawene]]

Punch (Distrikt, Pakistan)

2012-12-01T18:19:54Z

Hazard-Bot: Bot: Replacing {{Wikitravel}} with {{Wikivoyage-inline}}

{{For|Poonch district administered by India|Poonch district, India}}
{{Infobox settlement
| name = Poonch
| official_name =
| native_name =
| native_name_lang =
| settlement_type = [[Districts of Pakistan|District]]
| image_skyline =
| imagesize =
| image_alt =
| image_caption =
| image_map = Poonch Azad Kashmir.svg
| mapsize = 200px
| map_alt =
| map_caption = Map of [[Azad Kashmir]] with Poonch highlighted
| latd = |latm = |lats = |latNS =
| longd = |longm = |longs = |longEW =
| coordinates_type =
| coordinates_display =
| subdivision_type = Country
| subdivision_name = [[Pakistan]]
| subdivision_type1 = [[Provinces of Pakistan|Province]]
| subdivision_name1 =
| subdivision_type2 = Capital
| subdivision_name2 =
| area_total_km2 = 855
| population_as_of = 1998
| population_total = 459000
| population_density_km2 = 548
| timezone1 = [[Time in Pakistan|PST]]
| utc_offset1 = +5
| established_title = Established
| established_date =
| leader_title = District Nazim
| leader_name =
| leader_title1 = District Naib Nazim
| leader_name1 =
| blank_name_sec1 = District Council
| blank_info_sec1 =
| blank1_name_sec1 =
| blank1_info_sec1 =
| demographics1_title1 = Main language(s)
| demographics1_info1 =
| website =
}}

'''Poonch''' is one of the eight districts of [[Azad Jammu and Kashmir]]. Poonch district borders [[Indian-administered Kashmir]] that comes under the [[Vale of Kashmir|Kashmir section]] which is part of the greater dispute between India and Pakistan.

The capital of the district is [[Rawalakot]] with the [[Sudhan]] tribes being the dominant groups in the district. This region has produced numerous business, political and military leaders.

== History ==
{{main|Poonch District}}
From the end of seventeenth century up to 1837 CE, Poonch was ruled by the Muslim [[Raja]]s of Loran in Tehsil Haveli. It then fell into the hands of Raja Faiztalab Khan of Rajuri to whom it was handed over by the Punjab Government. Poonch was included in the transfer of the hilly country to [[Gulab Singh of Jammu and Kashmir|Maharaja Gulab Singh]] in 1848. Before this transfer, Poonch was considered a district of [[Lahore]]. Maharaja Gulab Singh granted Chibal, Poonch and other areas to Jawaharr Singh and Moiti Singh. The Raja of Poonch had to present to the Maharaja of, what is now known as Jammu and [[Kashmir]], one horse with gold trappings. The Raja of Poonch was not to effect any administrative changes in the territory of Poonch without previous consultation with the Maharaja of [[Kashmir]].

==Separation of Poonch==
[[File:AJK Dist Poonch.svg|thumb|Map of Poonch district]]

After independence in 1947, Pakistan and India fought a [[Indo-Pakistani War of 1947|war over Kashmir]]. As a result of the war, Poonch was split between the two nations. Prior to the division of Poonch, the only high school in the district was in the city of [[Poonch]]; this city now forms the capital of Indian-controlled Poonch.

== Lohar Dynasty ==

The centre of Lohar/Tarkan dynasty was at Loharin which is now in Poonch district of the state Kashmir. Prominent kings of this dynasty have carved out a special place in the history of Kashmir.

This clan is famous in Kashmir history since it gave a whole dynasty which ruled for a long time called 'Lohar dynasty'. Their settlement in India, Loharin, is located in Pir Panjal Range. The Lohar fort is named after them. The famous queen Dida, married to Kshemagupta, was daughter of King Simha Raja Lohar, who himself was married to a daughter of Shahenshah Lalli Bhima (Jat Clan) of Kabul. Lohar Kot was the name of the royal palace of the Lohar Dynasty. Alberuni (Abu Rayhan Biruni) refers to this castle Lohar Kot-as Loha Kot, and Mahmud Ghazni’s attack on Loha Kot was a dismal failure. Farishta tells that Muhmud failed because the fort “was remarkable on account of its height and strength. The Lohars had enough strength to defend the towering palace.

Lohar Dynasty ruled Kashmir for more than a century when Kshtriya rituals entered the Brahamnic cult. As is common with despotic rule the whole period suffered from murders, suicides, corruption-material and moral- a record of which has been prepared by Kalhan Pandit who followed in the 12th century in the reign of Jayasinha. The mysticism that the Lohars from Iran introduced was a slow but soothing stream aimed at raising up of moral and spiritual values and oneness of God. Therefore, Kashmiris readily accepted it in all its traits in which the Reshi order of Nundrishi was also contained. So Kashmiri thinking evolved out of a happy amalgam of Sanskrit, Buddhist and Islamic values.

The decline of Buddhism was a result of anarchy that the Iranian Lohars introduced to the state of Kashmir.

{{see also|Ethnic groups of Azad Kashmir}}

== Main places ==

'''Sehra:'''
Sehra is a beautiful town located left bank of poonch river,{{convert|7|km}} from Tatapani on Poonch Road.Sehra is a union council having surrounding small villages Dara Sher Khan, Dalairy, Chakrali, Kanoian, Tahi, Sawa, Darochian, Natar, Lachyal etc. A crossing point is also located here in lachyal.The village's literacy rate is more than 90%. There are many primary schools, 1 boys high schools & 1 Girls College in the government sector, 2 public schools, many village development organizations, lot of companies, and number of farmer associations in the town.There is web of roads and pavements in the town. Jamma Masjid is located in the center of the town, Meelad chok is a famous place of the town.
There is one police station in sehra covering areas from Kanoian to Mandhole and Dara Sher khan to Dharmassal.This Beautiful town is forehead of Dist. Poonch.

'''Dara Sher Khan:'''
The village of Dara Sher Khan is located {{convert|8|km}} from Tatapani and is located near Goi, Bhabra and Sehra. It was named by Sardar Sher Khan. Two main tribes live there: the Douli Sardars and the Gujars. Others castes like the Saadat Bhati also live there. Many government officers and doctors come from Dara Sher Khan. The village's literacy rate is relatively high. There are 11 primary schools, 2 high schools in the government sector, 2 public schools, 4 village development organizations, more than 30 companies, and 4 farmer associations.

==Transport==

A bus across the LOC, the [[Poonch]]-[[Rawalakot]] bus has helped to re-establish ties across the border.

== Gallery ==
{|
| [[Image:Banjosa.JPG|thumb|150px|Banjosa Rest House, [[Rawalakot]] ]]
||
| [[Image:AbbaspurAjk1.jpg|thumb|150px|Abbaspur, a small town in Poonch District]]
||
| [[Image:MaindlaSunrise.jpg|thumb| 150px|Sunrise over Mehndla and other areas of Poonch]]
||
| [[Image:Destroyedbridgeriverpoonch.JPG|thumb|150px|Destroyed bridge linking Madapur to Mehndla on the [[Line of Control|LOC]] in Poonch District]]
|-
|}

== External links ==
*[http://www.ajk.gov.pk Official website of the Government of Azad Kashmir]
*{{Wikivoyage-inline|Azad Jammu and Kashmir}}

{{Administrative units of Azad Kashmir}}

{{coord missing|Pakistan}}

[[Category:Poonch District, Pakistan| ]]
[[Category:Districts of Azad Kashmir]]

[[fr:District de Poonch]]
[[pnb:ضلع پونچھ]]
[[pl:Dystrykt Poonch]]
[[ru:Пунч (округ)]]
[[ur:ضلع پونچھ]]
[[zh:蓬奇县]]

Nananu-i-Ra

2012-12-01T05:12:26Z

Hazard-Bot: Bot: Replacing {{Wikitravel}} with {{Wikivoyage-inline}}

[[File:2004.03.02 03 McDonalds Nananu-i-Ra Fiji.jpg|thumb|right|Nananu-i-Ra]]
[[File:2004.03.01 36 Nananu-i-Ra Fiji.jpg|thumb|right|Sunset at Nananu-i-Ra]]
'''Nananu-i-Ra''' is an [[island]] in [[Fiji]] about 1.5 kilometers off the coast of the main island of [[Viti Levu]], in the [[Rakiraki]] of [[Ra Province]]. It has a maximum elevation of 180 meters.

The name NANANU-I-RA means "Daydream the Lower". There are 4 Backpackers on Nananu I Ra Island and One Resort. Three quarters of the Island was once owned by the [[Procter & Gamble|Procter and Gamble]] Legacy which was sold in 2004 to a [[New Zealand]] based Developer. There are plans to develop the Island in the way of several [[Star (classification)|Five star]] Resorts, Roads, Piped water and Electricity from the Mainland. Trip Advisor, [[Lonely Planet]], and other hostel reviewing sites are recommended to be checked before holidaying here to get the most up to date accommodation options, Charlies Place, Bethams Beach Cottages and MacDonald's Backpackers are well established budget resorts offering basic to moderate standards of accommodation and service. Boats frequently leave from Ellington Wharf and Wananavu Resort costing $25FJD per return trip per person. There are 7 Beaches, the most popular being Oni Beach on the northern most side of the Island which was recently awarded merit as being one of the best in the country. The island has five shops for basic food items. The general population is predominatley European retirees mixed in with local workers with a permanent population of roughly 40 [[full time]] residents. [[Wireless LAN|Wireless broadband]] can be subscribed to and is within the network at a speed of (Vodafone Fiji 3G Speeds) as well as Vodafone cellular coverage. The Island neighbors Dolphin Island and Nananu-I-Cake. [[Mythology|Fijian mythology]] holds that Nananu-i-Ra is the point of departure for disembodied spirits, leaving this world for the afterlife. The island is a popular location for [[kitesurfing]] and [[windsurfing]] due to consistent [[trade wind]]s during the months of April through to October. There is a track open to the public running along the highest peaks of the Island from one end to the other, this takes around a few hours to half a day to complete.

== External links ==
{{Wikivoyage-inline|Nananu-i-Ra}}

{{coord|17|18|S|178|13|E|region:FJ_type:isle|display=title}}

{{Viti Levu}}
{{Islands of Fiji}}
[[Category:Islands of Fiji]]
[[Category:Viti Levu]]

[[Category:Ra Province]]
[[Category:Fijian mythology|Nananu-i-Ra]]

{{Fiji-geo-stub}}

[[cs:Nananu i Ra]]
[[es:Nananu-i-Ra]]
[[hif:Nananu-i-Ra]]
[[fr:Nanunanu i Ra]]
[[nl:Nanunanu-i-Ra]]

Kaschmir (Division)

2012-11-30T23:54:04Z

Hazard-Bot: Bot: Replacing {{Wikitravel}} with {{Wikivoyage-inline}}

{{Other uses|Kashmir (disambiguation)}}

{{Use British English|date=June 2012}}
{{Use dmy dates|date=June 2012}}
{{Infobox settlement
| name = Kashmir Valley
| native_name = وادی کشمیر
| native_name_lang = Kashmiri
| other_name = Vale of Kashmir
| settlement_type = State division
| image_skyline = Dal LakeVR.jpg
| image_alt =
| image_caption = [[Dal Lake]] and Shikaras
| nickname =
| image_map = Kashmir border.JPG
| map_alt =
| map_caption = Kashmir Valley (orange bordered) lies in Jammu & Kashmir state of India
| subdivision_type = Country
| subdivision_name = India
| subdivision_type1 = [[States and territories of India|State]]
| subdivision_name1 = [[Jammu and Kashmir]]
| subdivision_type2 = [[List of districts of India|Districts]]
| subdivision_name2 = [[Anantnag district|Anantnag]], [[Baramulla district|Baramulla]], [[Budgam district|Budgam]], [[Bandipore district|Bandipore]], [[Ganderbal district|Ganderbal]], [[Kupwara district|Kupwara]], [[Kulgam district|Kulgam]], [[Pulwama district|Pulwama]], [[Shopian district|Shopian]] and [[Srinagar district|Srinagar]]
| established_title =
| established_date =
| founder =
| named_for =
| seat_type = Headquarters
| seat = [[Srinagar]]
| government_type =
| governing_body =
| unit_pref = Metric
| area_footnotes =
| area_rank =
| area_total_km2 = 15948
| elevation_footnotes =
| elevation_m = 1850
| population_total = 6907622
| population_as_of = 2011
| population_rank =
| population_density_km2 = auto
| population_demonym =
| population_footnotes =
| demographics_type1 = Languages
| demographics1_title1 = Official
| demographics1_info1 = [[Urdu]]
| timezone1 = [[Indian Standard Time|IST]]
| utc_offset1 = +5:30
| postal_code_type = 
| postal_code =
| registration_plate =
| website =
| footnotes =
}}
The '''Kashmir Valley''' ({{lang-ur|{{Nastaliq|وادی کشمیر}}}}) or '''Vale of Kashmir''' is a valley located between the [[Karakoram]] and the [[Pir Panjal Range]] in the [[India]]n [[States and territories of India|state]] of [[Jammu and Kashmir]]. No part of the valley lies in the area currently administered by Pakistan. It is around 135 km long and 32 km wide, formed by the [[Jhelum River]].<ref>Kashmir. (2007). In Encyclopædia Britannica. Retrieved March 27, 2007, from [http://www.britannica.com/EBchecked/topic/312908/Kashmir Encyclopædia Britannica]"</ref> Kashmir Valley is one of the three administrative divisions in Jammu and Kashmir state and consists of Anantnag, Baramulla, Budgam, Bandipore, Ganderbal, Kupwara, Kulgam, Pulwama, Shopian and Srinagar [[List of districts of Jammu and Kashmir|districts]].

[[Mughal emperors|Mughal]] emperor [[Jahangir]] called it "Paradise on Earth."

==Geography==
Kashmir Valley borders [[Jammu]] region to the south, [[Ladakh]] region to the east, and the [[Line of Control]] in the north and the west.
[[File:Kashmir-sat-nasa.jpg|thumb|Kashmir valley seen from satellite. Snow capped [[Pir Panjal range]] separates the valley from plains.]]

===Climate===
{{climate chart
| Srinagar
| -2 | 7 | 48
| -0.7 | 8.2 | 68
| 3.4 | 14.1 | 121
| 7.9 | 20.5 | 85
| 10.8 | 24.5 | 68
| 14.9 | 29.6 | 39
| 18.1 | 30.1 | 62
| 17.5 | 29.6 | 76
| 12.1 | 27.4 | 28
| 5.8 | 22.4 | 33
| 0.9 | 15.1 | 28
| -1.5 | 8.2 | 54
| source = HKO <ref name = HKO>{{cite web
| url = http://www.hko.gov.hk/wxinfo/climat/world/eng/asia/india/srinagar_e.htm
| title = Climatological Information for Srinagar, India
| publisher = [[Hong Kong Observatory]]
| accessdate = 2012-06-09}}</ref> }}

Kashmir Valley features a moderate type climate. Its climate is largely defined by its geographic location, with the towering [[Karakoram Range]] in the north, [[Pir Panjal Range]] in the south and west and [[Zanskar Range]] in the east.<ref name="Kashmir surrounded">{{cite book | author=Sharad Singh Negi | title=Geo-botany of India | url=http://books.google.co.in/books?id=oy-1AAAAIAAJ&q=Kashmir+valley+pir+panjal,+zanaskar,+korakaram&dq=Kashmir+valley+pir+panjal,+zanaskar,+korakaram&output=html_text&cd=1 | accessdate=11 July 2012 |year=1986 | publisher=Periodical Expert Book Agency, 1986 | isbn= | page=58–}}</ref> It can be generally described as cool in the spring and autumn, mild in the summer and cold in the winter. As a large valley with significant differences in geo-location among various districts, the [[weather]] is often cooler in the hilly areas compared to the flat lower part.

Summer is usually mild and with good little rain, but [[relative humidity]] is generally high and the nights are cool. The [[Precipitation (meteorology)|precipitation]] occurs throughout the year and no month is particularly dry. The hottest month is July (mean minimum temperature 6°C, mean maximum temperature 32°C) and the coldest are December–January (mean minimum temperature −15°C, mean maximum temperature 0°C).

Compared with other plain parts of India, Kashmir valley enjoys a more moderate climate but weather conditions are unpredictable. The recorded high temperature is 33°C and the recorded low is −18°C. On 5 and 6 January 2012, after years of relatively little snow, a wave of heavy snow and low temperatures ([[winter storm]]) shocked the valley covering it in a thick layer of snow and ice.

Kashmir Valley has seen an increase in the relative humidity and annual precipitation in the last few years. This is most likely because of the commercial afforestation projects which also include expanding parks and green cover.

In his introduction to the ''[[Rajatarangini]]'', Kulan or [[Kalhana]] says about the climate of Valley:<ref name="Climate of Kashmira">{{cite book | authors=J. C. Aggarwal, S. P. Agrawal | title=Modern History of Jammu and Kashmir: Ancient times to Shimla Agreemen | url=http://books.google.co.in/books?id=XNqOjvaAb9cC&pg=PA1&dq=Rajatarangini+It+is+a+country+where+the+sun+shines+mildly,&output=html_text&cd=2 | accessdate=11 July 2012 |year=1995 | publisher=Concept Publishing Company, 1995 | isbn=8170225574, 9788170225577 | page=1–}}</ref>
<blockquote>
It is a country where the sun shines mildly, being the place created by Kashayapa as if for his glory. High school-houses, the saffron, iced water and grapes, which are rare even in heaven, are common here. Kailasa is the best place in the three worlds, Himalaya the best part of Kailasa, and Kashmir the best place in Himalaya.
</blockquote>
[[Sir Walter Roper Lawrence]] writes in his book ''[[The Valley of Kashmir]]'' that:<ref name="Climate of Kashmir">{{cite book | author=Sir Walter Roper Lawrence | title=The Valley of Kashmir | url=http://books.google.co.in/books?id=DqAHweWRUs0C&pg=PA13&vq=climate&dq=the+valley+of+kashmir&lr=&output=html_text&source=gbs_search_r&cad=1 | accessdate=11 July 2012 |year=1895 | publisher=Asian Educational Services, 1895 | isbn=8120616308, 9788120616301 | page=13–}}</ref>
<blockquote>
In latitude Kashmir corresponds with Peshawar, Baghdad and Damascus in Asia, with Fez in Morocco and South Carolina in America, but it presents none of the characteristics of those countries. People have linked the climate of Kashmir to that of Switzerland until the end of May, and of Southern France in July and August. But it is impossible to speak of Kashmir as possessing any one climate or group of characteristics. Every hundred feet of elevation brings some new phase of climate and of vegetation.
</blockquote>

==History==
{{main|History of Kashmir}}
[[Image:Sun temple martand indogreek.jpg|thumb|right|''General view of Temple and Enclosure of [[Surya|Martand]] or the Sun, near Bhawan. Probable date of temple AD 490–555. Probable date of colonnade AD 693–729.'' Photograph of the [[Surya]] Temple at [[Martand]] in Jammu & Kashmir taken by John Burke in 1868.]]
According to [[folk etymology]], the name "Kashmir" means "[[desiccate]]d land" (from the [[Sanskrit]]: ''Ka'' = water and ''shimeera'' = desiccate). In the ''[[Rajatarangini]],'' a '''history of Kashmir''' written by [[Kalhana]] in the mid-12th century, it is stated that the valley of Kashmir was formerly a lake. According to [[Hindu]] mythology, the lake was drained by the great sage, [[Rishi]] [[Kashyapa]], son of Marichi, son of [[Brahma]], by cutting a gap in the hills at Baramulla (''Varahamula''). When Kashmir had been drained, Kashyapa asked [[Brahman]]s to settle there. This is still the local tradition, and in the existing physical condition of the country, we may see some ground for the story which has taken this form. The name of Kashyapa is by history and tradition connected with the draining of the lake, and the chief town or collection of dwellings in the valley was called ''Kashyapa-pura'', which has been identified with ''Kaspapyros'' of [[Hecataeus of Miletus|Hecataeus]] (''apud'' [[Stephanus of Byzantium]]) and ''Kaspatyros'' of [[Herodotus]] (3.102, 4.44).<ref>[http://www.1911encyclopedia.org/Kashmir Encyclopædia Britannica (1911) ''Kashmir'']</ref> Kashmir is also believed to be the country meant by [[Ptolemy]]'s ''Kaspeiria''.<ref>E.J. Brill's first encyclopaedia of Islam, 1913–1936, Volume 4, ''Kashmir''</ref>

[[Kashmir|Cashmere]] is an archaic spelling of Kashmir in English but it is still spelled this way in many languages.

== Demographics ==
[[File:Islam in India.jpg|thumb|right|A mosque in [[Srinagar]]]]
The majority of people of Kashmir Valley are called Kashmiri and they speak the Kashmiri language. Kashmir Valley has a Muslim majority population. [[Islam]] is practiced by 97% of the population.<ref>Calculated from the [http://www.censusindia.gov.in/Tables_Published/Basic_Data_Sheet.aspx 2001 Census India District Profiles]</ref> The valley has also small communities of Hindu [[Kashmiri Pandits]] and [[Sikh]]s.<ref name="censusindia.gov.in">[http://www.censusindia.gov.in/Census_Data_2001/Census_data_finder/C_Series/Population_by_religious_communities.htm 2001 Census India: Data by Religious Communities]</ref>

Approximately 95% of the total population of 160,000–170,000 of Kashmiri [[Brahmins]], also called [[Kashmiri Pandits]], (approximately 150,000 to 160,000) left the Kashmir Valley in 1990 due to the threats by terrorists from across the [[line of control]] who also killed many Hindus and Sikhs.<ref>Evans, Alexander. 2002. [http://taylorandfrancis.metapress.com/content/0nvv0dtreww897ax/ "A departure from history: Kashmiri Pandits, 1990–2001"] ''Contemporary South Asia'', 11(1):19–37.</ref> According to an estimate by the [[Central Intelligence Agency]], about 100,000 Kashmiri Pandits from the entire state of Jammu and Kashmir have been [[Internally displaced person|internally displaced]] due to the ongoing violence.<ref name="ReferenceA">[https://cia.gov/cia/publications/factbook/geos/in.html CIA – The World Factbook]</ref> According to another estimate, 150,000 to 300,000 Kashmiri Pandits have been [[Internally displaced person|internally displaced]] due to militancy.<ref name="ReferenceA"/><ref>Evans, Alexander. [http://www.informaworld.com/smpp/content~content=a713658676~db=all "A departure from history: Kashmiri Pandits, 1990–2001"]. ''Contemporary South Asia'' 2002(11):1.</ref>

Ten districts in Kashmir valley (Kashmir Division of the Jammu and Kashmir state) had population of 6,907,623 as per 2011 census. The religious compostion was 97.16% Muslim and 2.84% Hindu, Sikh, Buddhist and others.<ref>http://updateox.com/india/district-wise-population-india-as-of-2011-census</ref><ref>http://www.censusindia.gov.in/Tables_Published/Basic_Data_Sheet.aspx 2001 Census India District Profiles</ref>

The principal languages in the valley are [[Kashmiri language|Kashmiri]] and [[Urdu]].
However, Urdu written in the Persian script is the official language. Many speakers of these languages also know English as a second language.<ref name="Ethnologue">{{cite web|url = http://www.ethnologue.com/show_language.asp?code=kas|title = Kashmiri: A language of India |publisher = Ethnologue |accessdate = 16 September 2007}}</ref> Hindi is the lingua franca for the security forces stationed in Kashmir valley.

===Districts===
Kashmir Division consists of ten districts:

{| class="wikitable sortable" style="margin-bottom: 0;"
! Name of District !! Headquarters !! Area (km²) !! Population 2001 Census !! Population 2011 Census
|-
| [[Anantnag district]] || [[Anantnag]] || {{formatnum: 3984}} || {{formatnum: 734549}} || {{formatnum: 1069749}}
|-
| [[Kulgam district]] || [[Kulgam]] || || {{formatnum: 437885}} || {{formatnum: 423181}}
|-
| [[Pulwama district]] || [[Pulwama]] || {{formatnum: 1398}} || {{formatnum: 441275}} || {{formatnum: 570060}}
|-
| [[Shopian district]] || [[Shopian]] || || {{formatnum: 211332}} || {{formatnum: 265960}}
|-
| [[Budgam district]] || [[Budgam]] || {{formatnum: 1371}} || {{formatnum: 629309}} || {{formatnum: 755331}}
|-
| [[Srinagar district]] || [[Srinagar]] || {{formatnum: 2228}} || {{formatnum: 990548}} || {{formatnum: 1250173}}
|-
| [[Ganderbal district]] || [[Ganderbal]] || || {{formatnum: 211899}} || {{formatnum: 297003}}
|-
| [[Bandipore district]] || [[Bandipore]] || || {{formatnum: 316436}} || {{formatnum: 385099}}
|-
| [[Baramulla district]] || [[Baramulla]] || {{formatnum: 4588}} || {{formatnum: 853344}} || {{formatnum: 1015503}}
|-
| [[Kupwara district]] || [[Kupwara]] || {{formatnum: 2379}} || {{formatnum: 650393}} || {{formatnum: 875564}}
|}

===Cities===
[[Srinagar]] is its main city and also the summer capital of the state. Other main cities are [[Anantnag]] and [[Baramulla]].
[[File:Gund village.jpg|thumb|right|Gund village in Sindh valley, a sub vallay of Kashmir Valley]]

==Politics==
The major Indian political parties in the region are the [[Jammu & Kashmir National Conference|National Conference]], the [[Jammu and Kashmir People's Democratic Party]] and the [[Indian National Congress|Congress]]. [[Bharatiya Janata Party]] is not a major party in the valley. However, its members of the legislature live in the valley as Srinagar in the valley is the summer capital of the state of Jammu and Kashmir. The capital moves out of the valley in the winter in a grand ceremony called "Durbar Move".

==Tourism==
{{Main|Tourism in Jammu and Kashmir}}
[[Image:Gulmarg-Gondala.JPG|thumb|right|Skiing is popular in [[Gulmarg]], showing cable car in a snow clad mountain]]
Kashmir valley is a popular tourist destination for domestic (Indian) and foreign tourists. Among the popular tourist places in the valley are [[Gulmarg]] that has a ski resort, [[Dal Lake]] that has popular house boats, [[Pahalgam]] and [[Amarnath Temple]].

Before insurgency intensified in 1989, tourism formed an important part of the Kashmiri economy. The tourism economy in the Kashmir valley was worst hit. Thousands of Hindu [[pilgrim]]s visit holy shrine of [[Amarnath Temple|Amarnath]] every year and this significantly benefits the state's economy.<ref>{{cite news|url=http://www.hindu.com/thehindu/holnus/002200709130350.htm | work=Online edition of The Hindu, dated 13 September 2007|title=Amarnath Board to study yatra impact on Kashmir economy | accessdate=9 June 2012|date=13 September 2007}}</ref> But this yatra has put Kashmir on the verge of ecological disaster .<ref>{{cite news|url=http://in.news.yahoo.com/amarnath-yatra-environmental-disaster-making-101534702.html | work=Online edition of Yahoo, dated 8 August 2011}}</ref>

Tourism in the Kashmir valley has rebounded in recent years and in 2009, the state became one of the top tourist destinations of <ref>{{cite news|url=http://www.hindu.com/thehindu/holnus/004200903181221.htm|work=Online edition of The Hindu, dated 18 March 2009|title=Foreign tourists flock Kashmir|accessdate=9 June 2012|date=18 March 2009}}</ref> [[Gulmarg]], one of the most popular [[ski resort]] destinations in India, is also home to the world's highest green [[golf course]].<ref>[http://online.wsj.com/article/SB119332713217271534.html?mod=googlenews_wsj Fairway to Heaven – WSJ.com]</ref> However with the decrease in violence in the state has boosted the states economy specifically tourism.<ref>[http://sify.com/news/Tourists-arrival-gives-boost-to-J-K-economy-news-jm3v4cihjai.html Tourists arrival gives boost to J-K economy]</ref> It was reported that 736,000 tourists including 23,000 foreigners visited Kashmir in 2010.

===Hill stations===
[[File:Sonamarg 11.jpg|thumb|right|[[Sind River]] at Nilgrar Sonamarg]]
[[File:Pahalgam Valley.jpg|thumb|right|[[Lidder River]] flowing through Pahalgam Valley]]
* [[Aru, Jammu and Kashmir|Aru]]
* [[Gulmarg]]
* [[Pahalgam]]
* [[Sonamarg]]
* [[Srinagar]]
* [[Yusmarg]]

===Mughal gardens===
[[File:India - Srinagar - 023 - Nishat Bagh Mughal Gardens.jpg|thumb|right|Nishat Bagh]]
[[File:Chashme Shahi.jpg|thumb|right|Chashme Shahi]]
* [[Nishat Bagh]]
* [[Shalimar Bagh (Srinagar)|Shalimar Bagh]]
* [[Chashme Shahi]]

===Lakes===
* [[Dal Lake]]
* [[Manasbal Lake]]
* [[Wular Lake]]
* [[Gangabal Lake]]
* [[Gadsar Lake]]
* [[Sheshnag Lake]]
* [[Vishansar Lake]]
* [[Krishansar Lake]]

===Mountaineering===
This [[Himalaya]]n valley provides a base to climb some of the challenging Himalayan peaks. These peaks where closed due to the rise in militancy, now they are opened for mountaineering.
* [[Mount Haramukh]] ({{convert|5142|m|ft|disp=flip|abbr=in}})
* [[Kolhoi Peak]] ({{convert|5425|m|ft|disp=flip|abbr=in}})
* [[Machoi Peak]] ({{convert|5458|m|ft|disp=flip|abbr=in}})
* [[Sirbal Peak]] ({{convert|5236|m|ft|disp=flip|abbr=in}})
* [[Amarnath Peak]] ({{convert|5186|m|ft|disp=flip|abbr=in}})
* Sunset Peak ({{convert|4746|m|ft|disp=flip|abbr=in}})
* Tatakooti ({{convert|4725|m|ft|disp=flip|abbr=in}})
* Mahadev ({{convert|4267|m|ft|disp=flip|abbr=in}})

==Culture and cuisine==
{{further2|[[Cuisine of Kashmir]]|[[Wazwan]]|[[Kashmiri literature]]|[[Kashmiri music]]|[[Kashmiri Pandit Festivals]]}}
[[Cuisine of Kashmir|Kashmiri cuisine]] includes [[dum aloo]] (boiled potatoes hollowed and stuffed with heavy amounts of spice), tzaman (a solid cottage cheese), [[rogan josh]] (lamb cooked in heavy spices), yakhiyn (lamb cooked in curd with mild spices), hakh (a spinach-like leaf), rista-gushtaba (minced meat balls in tomato and curd curry),danival korme and the signature rice. The traditional [[wazwan]] feast involves cooking meat or vegetables, usually mutton, in several different ways.

Alcohol is not consumed by many Muslims in the valley. There are two styles of making tea in the region: [[Noon Chai]] or salt tea that is pink in colour (known as chinen posh rang or peach flower colour) and popular with locals, and [[kahwah]], a tea for festive occasions, made with [[saffron]] and spices (cardamom, cinnamon, sugar, noon chai leaves) and black tea.

==Economy==
[[File:Apricot tree flowers.jpg|thumb|right|[[Apricot]] here grow in abundance, image from village Benhama]]
Tourism is one of the main sources of income for vast sections of the Kashmiri population. Kashmir Valley‘s economy is centred around tourism and agriculture. Traditionally the staple crop of the valley is rice, it forms the chief food of the people. In addition, Indian corn, wheat, barley and oats are also grown. Given its temperate climate, it is suited for crops like [[asparagus]], artichoke, seakale, broad beans, scarlet runners, beetroot, cauliflower and cabbage. Fruit trees are common in the valley, and the cultivated orchards yield pears, [[apple]]s, [[peach]]es, and cherries. The chief trees are [[deodar]], firs and [[pine]]s, [[Platanus orientalis|chenar]] or plane, maple, birch and [[walnut]], apple and cherry.

Historically, Kashmir became known worldwide when [[Cashmere wool]] was exported to other regions and nations (exports have ceased due to decreased abundance of the cashmere goat and increased competition from China). Kashmiris are well adept at [[knitting]] and making [[Pashmina]] [[shawls]], silk carpets, rugs, [[kurta]]s, and pottery. [[Saffron]], too, is grown in Kashmir. Efforts are on to export the naturally grown fruits and vegetables as [[organic food]]s mainly to the [[Middle East]]. Srinagar is known for its silver-work, [[papier mache]], wood-carving, and the weaving of [[silk]].

The economy was badly damaged by the [[2005 Kashmir earthquake]] which, as of October 8, 2005, resulted around 1,500 deaths in Kashmir Valley.

Kashmir Valley is believed to have potentially rich rocks containing hydrocarbon reserves.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.dailytimes.com.pk/default.asp?page=2008\10\22\story_22-10-2008_pg7_41|title=Italian company to pursue oil exploration in Kashmir|publisher=[[Daily Times (Pakistan)|Daily Times]]|author=Iftikhar Gilani|date=2008-10-22|accessdate=2012-06-08}}</ref><ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.dnaindia.com/india/report_india-pakistan-to-explore-oil-jointly_1152227|title=India, Pakistan to explore oil jointly|publisher=[[Daily News and Analysis]]|author=Ishfaq-ul-Hassan|date=2008-02-22|accessdate=2012-06-08}}</ref>

==Transport==
Kashmir valley is connected to Jammu and Ladakh regions by road and air. It has access to [[Jammu]] region and the rest of India through the [[Banihal]] road tunnel near [[Qazigund]] on national highway [[National Highway 1A (India)|NH 1A]].

===Air===
[[Srinagar]] is the main airport in Kashmir valley and has scheduled flights from Jammu, Leh, Chandigarh and New Delhi.

===Railway===
Kashmir valley has a {{convert|119|km|abbr=on|0}} long modern [[Kashmir railway|railway]] line that started in October 2009 and connects Baramulla in the western part of the valley to Srinagar and [[Qazigund]]. It will link the Kashmir Valley to Banihal across the Pir Panjal mountains through the [[Pir Panjal Railway Tunnel|Banihal rail tunnel]] in 2013 and to the rest of India in another few years as the construction of the railway line from Jammu to Banihal progresses steadily.

===Road===
Transport within the valley is predominantly by road.<ref>http://www.bharatonline.com/kashmir/travel-tips/local-transport.html</ref>

==References==
{{Reflist|2}}

==External links==
* {{Wikivoyage-inline}}
* [http://www.britannica.com/EBchecked/topic/312921/Vale-of-Kashmir Vale of Kashmir]

{{Kashmir Valley}}

{{Jammu and Kashmir topics}}

[[Category:Geography of Jammu and Kashmir]]
[[Category:River valleys]]

[[az:Kəşmir vadisi]]
[[be:Кашмірская даліна]]
[[es:Valle de Cachemira]]
[[fr:Vallée du Cachemire]]
[[ms:Lembah Kashmir]]
[[nl:Kasjmirvallei]]
[[no:Kashmirdalen]]
[[pl:Kotlina Kaszmirska]]
[[ru:Кашмирская долина]]

Chinatown (Singapur)

2012-11-30T02:56:50Z

Hazard-Bot: Bot: Replacing {{Wikitravel}} with {{Wikivoyage-inline}}

{{Contains Chinese text}}
{{No footnotes|article|date=May 2010}}
{{Chinese
|t={{linktext|牛|車|水}}
|s={{linktext|牛|车|水}}
|l="ox-cart water"
|p=Niúchēshuǐ
|poj=Gû-chia-chúi
|h=Ngiù-Chhâ-Súi
|msa=Kreta Ayer
|tam=சைனா டவுன்
|pic=Pagoda Street, Chinatown Heritage Centre, Dec 05.JPG
|piccap=The Chinatown Heritage Centre at [[Pagoda Street]] occupies three [[shophouse]]s in Chinatown, newly restored to house memories and untold stories of Singapore’s early forefathers.
}}

[[Singapore]]'s '''Chinatown''' is an [[Culture of Singapore|ethnic neighbourhood]] featuring distinctly [[Chinese culture|Chinese]] cultural elements and a historically concentrated [[overseas Chinese|ethnic Chinese population]]. Chinatown is located within the larger district of [[Outram, Singapore|Outram]].


As the largest ethnic group in Singapore is Chinese, Chinatown is considerably less of an enclave than it once was. (Note: The name '''Chinatown （唐人街）''' is usually used by non-Chinese Singaporeans whereas Chinese Singaporeans usually use the term '''Niu Che Shui （牛车水）''' as the term '''Chinatown （唐人街）''' usually refers to enclaves of Chinese people in regions where Chinese people are the minority ethnic group.) However, the district does retain significant historical and cultural significance. Large sections of it have been declared national [[heritage tourism|heritage sites]] officially designated for [[Architectural conservation|conservation]] by the [[Urban Redevelopment Authority]].

==Geography==
Singapore's Chinatown is composed of several precincts - [[Kreta Ayer]], [[Telok Ayer]], [[Tanjong Pagar]], [[Bukit Pasoh]] and [[Ann Siang Hill]].

*'''''[[Kreta Ayer]]''''' - Kreta Ayer (meaning "water cart" similar to the Chinese name of "Niu Che Shui"; would be spelled "kereta air" in modern [[Malay language|Malay]]) is considered by many to be the heart of Singapore's Chinatown. Housing attractions such as Chinatown Heritage Centre, Chinatown Food Street and Chinatown Night Market, Kreta Ayer is both a popular tourist destination as well as a favoured location for local food.

*'''''[[Telok Ayer]]''''' - The original focal point of settlement in Chinatown, Telok Ayer is home to many [[Religion in China|Chinese temple]]s as well as [[Muslim]] [[mosque]]s that have been around since the first days of Chinatown. More recently, restaurants and drinking holes have begun popping up on Telok Ayer's streets.

*'''''[[Tanjong Pagar]]''''' - Once the center of operations for rickshaw pullers, Tanjong Pagar today is known for the large number of bridal saloons that have set up shop along her rows of preserved pre-[[World War II]] shophouses. Singapore's tallest [[Housing and Development Board]] (HDB) flat, [[The Pinnacle@Duxton]], also resides in Tanjong Pagar.

*'''''[[Bukit Pasoh]]''''' - Known also as the "Street of Clans", Bukit Pasoh is the historic, and in many cases, current, home of several Chinese cultural and clan associations - unusual neighbours to the slew of boutique hotels and international restaurants that have sprung up.

*'''''[[Ann Siang Hill]]''''' - Named after a wealthy Hokkien Chinese sawmiller who acquired the area to serve as his house and estate in the 1800s, the slopes of Ann Siang Hill are today filled with quirky shops, cafes and drinking holes, making it a popular hangout spot with the younger generation.

See also: [http://www.chinatown.sg/index.php?fx=overview-chinatown Overview of Greater Chinatown] cJINAOJE

==Etymology==
[[File:Bukit Pasoh Road, Dec 05.JPG|thumb|[[Bukit Pasoh Road]] is located on a hill that in the 1830s marked the western boundary of the colonial town.]]
In [[Chinese language|Chinese]], Singapore's Chinatown is known as ''Niu che shui'' ({{zh|s=牛车水|p=Niú chē shuǐ|l=bull-cart water}}) as a result of the fact that, because of its location, Chinatown's water supply was principally transported by animal-driven carts in the 19th century. The name is also echoed in the [[Malay language|Malay]] name, ''Kreta Ayer'', with the same meaning.

===Street name origins===
[[File:Chinatown, Singapore.jpg|thumb|250px|right|Road turning right is the entrance to Temple Street .]]
* '''''[[Mosque Street]]''''' is named after [[Masjid Jamae|Jamae Mosque]], located on the South Bridge Road end of the street. The mosque was completed in 1830 by the Chulia Muslims from the [[Coromandel coast]] of [[South India]]. In the early years, Mosque Street was the site of ten [[stable]]s.
* '''''[[Pagoda Street]]''''' takes its name from the [[Sri Mariamman Temple, Singapore|Sri Mariamman Temple]]. During the 1850s and 1880s, the street was one of the centres of slave traffic. It also had its share of [[coolie]] quarters and [[opium]] smoking dens. One of the traders was Kwong Hup Yuen who, it is thought, occupied No. 37, and after whom Pagoda Street is often referred to today.
* '''''[[Sago Lane]]''''' and '''''[[Sago Street]]''''' got their name because in the 1840s there were a number of [[sago]] factories located there. Sago is taken from the [[pith]] of the rumbia [[Arecaceae|palm]] and made into [[flour]] that is used for making cakes both sweet and savoury.
* '''''[[Smith Street, Singapore|Smith Street]]''''' was probably named after Sir Cecil Clementi Smith, who was the [[Governor of the Straits Settlements]] between 1887 and 1893.
* '''''[[Temple Street, Singapore|Temple Street]]''''' refers to the Sri Mariamman Temple, which is located at the South Bridge Road end of the street. It was formerly known as Almeida Street after Joaquim d'Almeida, son of José D'Almeida, who owned some land at the junction of Temple Street and Trengganu Street. In 1908, the Municipal Commissioners changed its name to Temple Street to avoid confusion with other streets in Singapore which were also named after D'Almeida.
* '''''[[Trengganu Street]]''''', described as "the [[Piccadilly]] of Chinese Singapore" in the past, now forms the heart of the [[tourist]] belt in Chinatown. In Chinese, it is called ''gu chia chui wah koi'', or "the cross street of Kreta Ayer". The crossing of streets refers to Smith Street and Sago streets. The street name is derived from [[Terengganu]], a state in present day [[Peninsular Malaysia]].

==History==
[[File:Keong Saik Road, Dec 05.JPG|thumb|[[Keong Saik Road]] was once a red light area in Chinatown in the 1960s, but has since been transformed into a street with many boutique hotels.]]
[[Wang Dayuan]] visited Singapore (then called [[Temasek]] or Dan Ma Xi) in 1330 and recorded that there was a Chinese community. This would make Singapore one of the oldest Chinatowns, as well as the largest.

Under the [[Raffles Plan of Singapore]], the area originally was a division of [[History of Singapore#Early growth (1819 - 1826)|colonial Singapore]] where Chinese immigrants tended to reside. Although as Singapore grew, Chinese immigrants settled in other areas of the island-city, Chinatown became overcrowded within decades of Singapore's founding in 1819 and remained such until many residents were relocated at the initiation of Singapore's governmental [[Housing Development Board]] in the 1960s.

In 1822, [[Sir Stamford Raffles]] wrote to Captain C.E. Davis, President of the Town Committee, and George Bonham and Alex L. Johnson, Esquires, and members, charging them with the task of "''suggesting and carrying into effect such arrangements on this head, as may on the whole be most conducive to the comfort and security of the different classes of inhabitants and the general interests and welfare of the place...''"

He went on to issue instructions, as a guide to the Committee, which included a description of Singapore Town generally, the ground reserved by the government, the [[Europe]]an town and principal [[mercantile]] establishments and the native divisions and "''kampongs''". These included areas for [[Bugis]], [[Arabs]], Marine Yard, [[Chulias]], [[Malays in Singapore|Malays]], Markets and [[Han Chinese|Chinese]] Kampongs, the present-day Chinatown. Raffles was very clear in his instructions and his guidelines were to determine the urban structure of all subsequent development. The "five-foot way", for example, the continuous covered passage on either side of the street, was one of the public requirements.

Raffles foresaw the fact that "''it may be presumed that they (the Chinese) will always form by far the largest portion of the community''". For this reason, he appropriated all of the land southwest of the [[Singapore River]] for their accommodation but, at the same time, insisted that the different classes and the different [[province]]s be concentrated in their separate quarters and that these quarters, in the event of fire, be constructed of [[masonry]] with [[tile]]d roofs.

This thus resulted in the formation of a distinct section titled Chinatown. However, only when parcels of land were [[lease]]d or granted to the public in and after 1843 for the building of houses and [[shophouse]]s, did Chinatown's physical development truly begin.

[[File:Kreta Ayer Road 2, Oct 06.JPG|thumb|[[Kreta Ayer Road]] is the road that defines for Chinese, the Chinatown area. In the 1880s, Kreta Ayer was the red light area in Chinatown.]]

The effects of [[Multiculturalism|diversity]] of Chinatown are still present. The [[Hoklo people|Hokkien]]s ([[Hoklo (ethnic group)|Fukiens]]) are associated with Havelock Road, Telok Ayer Street, China Street and Chulia Street, and the [[Teochew people|Teochew]] [[merchant]]s are mostly in Circular Road, River Valley Road, [[Boat Quay]] and South Bridge Road. The ubiquitous [[Cantonese people|Cantonese]] are scattered around South Bridge Road, Upper Cross Street, New Bridge Road and Bukit Pasoh Road. These days, the Hokkiens and Teochews have largely scattered to other parts of the island, leaving the Cantonese as the dominant dialect group in Chinatown.

The Chinese names for China Street are ''Kiau Keng Cheng'' (front of the [[gambling]] houses) and ''Hok Kien Ghi Hin Kong Si Cheng'' (front of the Hokkien Ghi Hin Kongsi). Church Street is an extension of Pickering Street and the Chinese call it ''Kian Keng Khau'' (mouth of the gambling houses) or ''Ngo Tai Tiahn Hok Kiong Khau'' (mouth of the five generations of the Tian Hok Temple).

[[Guild]]s, [[clan]]s, [[trade union]]s and [[Voluntary association|associations]] were all referred to as ''kongsi'', a kind of Chinese [[mafia]], although the literal meaning of the word is "to share". The so-called mafia is better translated as the secret and sinister ''hui''. However, these [[secret societies]], the [[Triad society|triads]], who themselves had suffered under the [[Manchu]]s in China, provided [[support group|support]] to the later [[immigrant]]s to Singapore by paying their passage and permitting to pay it off by working.

There were the [[Letter (message)|letter]] writers of Sago Street—the Chinese called this street ''Gu Chia Chwi Hi Hng Cheng'' (front of [[Kreta Ayer Theatre]]), but it was mainly associated with [[death]]—the [[sandalwood]] idols of Club Street and the complicated and simple food of Mosque Street; all rang to the sound of the [[abacus]]. Old women could be seen early in the mornings topping and tailing [[bean sprout]]s, the skins of [[frog]]s being peeled, the newly killed [[snake]]s being skinned and the centuries-old [[panacea]]s being dispensed by women blessed with the power of curing.

Surprisingly, in the heart of this diverse Chinese community is the most important temple for Singaporean Indians, the Sri Mariamman Hindu Tamil Temple, and the Indian mosques, [[Al-Abrar Mosque]] at Telok Ayer Street and Jamae Mosque at Mosque Street, as well as the Fukien [[Thian Hock Keng|Thian Hock Keng Chinese Temple]] of 1830 to 1842.

==Architecture==
[[File:Mosque Street, Dec 05.JPG|thumb|[[Mosque Street]] is named after Jamae Mosque, located on the [[South Bridge Road]] end of the street.]]

The street [[architecture]] of Chinatown's buildings, the shophouses especially, combine different elements of [[baroque architecture]] and [[Victorian architecture]] and do not have a single classification. Many of them were built in the style of [[painted ladies]], and have been restored in that fashion. These styles result in a variety of different colours of which [[pastel]] is most dominant. Trengganu Street, Pagoda Street and Temple Street are such examples of this architecture, as well as development in Upper Cross Street and the houses in Club Street. Boat Quay was once a [[slavery|slave]] market along the Singapore River, Boat Quay has the most mixed-style shophouses on the island.

In 1843, when land [[Title (property)|title]]s were issued, the [[Terraced house|terrace]]s in Pagoda Street (now with additions, mostly three-story) were born. They were originally back to back, an arrangement which made [[night soil]] collection difficult, but lanes were developed in between following the [[Singapore Improvement Trust]] (SIT) backlane orders of 1935.

The architectural character of many of the terraces in Chinatown is much more [[Italianate]] in style than those of, for instance [[Emerald Hill, Singapore|Emerald Hill]] or [[Petain Road]]. Windows often appear as mere slits with narrow [[timber]] [[jalousie]]s (often with adjustable slats). [[Fanlight]]s over the windows are usually quite decorative and the [[pilaster]]s and [[balconies]] and even the [[plasterwork]] and colours seem to be Mediterranean in flavour. The style was probably introduced by those early Chinese immigrants (both [[China]]-born and [[Peranakan|Straits-born]]) who had knowledge of the [[Portuguese people|Portuguese]] architecture of [[Macau]], [[Malacca]] and [[Goa]]. The [[Chettiar]]s and [[Tamils]] from [[Southern India]] would also have been familiar with the European architecture there, although it is difficult to imagine how these people would have had a particularly strong influence on building in Chinatown.

==Transportation==
Chinatown has a [[Mass Rapid Transit (Singapore)|Mass Rapid Transit]] (MRT) station, called the [[Chinatown MRT Station]] on the [[North East Line]] and the upcoming [[Downtown Line]], in the middle of Pagoda Street (which is closed to traffic) and serves the vicinity, as well as several public [[bus]] routes which integrates it into [[Transport in Singapore|Singapore's transportation system]]. Also nearby are the Tanjong Pagar station on the East West Line, Outram Park Interchange which serves as an interchange between the East West Line and North East Line, and Clarke Quay station on the North East Line, as well as a bus terminal called New Bridge Road Bus Terminal.

==Politics==
Chinatown is mainly in the [[Kreta Ayer]]-[[Kim Seng]] division of [[Tanjong Pagar Group Representation Constituency]] whose [[Member of Parliament]] is Lily Tirtasana Neo of the PAP( [[People's Action Party]] )since 2001. Before that, the Member of Parliament of that area was former [[Minister for Finance (Singapore)|Minister for Finance]] Richard Hu Tsu Tau. The smaller part of Chinatown belongs to the Tanjong Pagar division of [[Tanjong Pagar Group Representation Constituency]] whose Member of Parliament is [[Minister Mentor]] [[Lee Kuan Yew]] since 1955.

== Gallery ==
<center>
<gallery>
File:Pagoda Street, Dec 05.JPG|[[Pagoda Street]] is named after the Hindu temple, Sri Mariamman Temple, located on the South Bridge Road end of the street.
File:Smith Street 2, Dec 05.JPG|[[Smith Street, Singapore|Smith Street]] now has an [[Al fresco dining|alfresco]] food street.
File:Temple Street 2, Dec 05.JPG|[[Temple Street, Singapore|Temple Street]] refers to the Sri Mariamman Temple, which is located at the South Bridge Road end of the street.
File:Teo Hong Road, Dec 05.JPG|Three-storey shophouses along [[Teo Hong Road]].
File:Trengganu Street, Dec 05.JPG|[[Trengganu Street]] has been converted to a [[pedestrian mall]] with shops lining both sides of the street, which transforms into a [[night market]] after dark.
File:Chinatown Complex, Dec 05.JPG|Chinatown Complex at Smith Street houses a food centre, a wet market and shops selling sundry goods.
File:Duxton Plain Park, Dec 05.JPG|Duxton Plain Park extends from [[New Bridge Road]] in Chinatown to the former Yan Kit Swimming Complex in [[Tanjong Pagar]].
File:Chinatown NEL Station, Entrance, Dec 05.JPG|Entrance to Chinatown MRT Station at Pagoda Street.
File:Singapore_Chinatown_CNY_2011.jpg|Night market at Singapore Chinatown around Chinese New Year 2011.
</gallery>
</center>

==See also==
*[[Chinatowns in Asia]]
*[[Sylvia Sherry]], author of ''Street of The Small Night Market'' set in Chinatown, Singapore.
{{commons|Chinatown, Singapore}}

==References==
{{reflist}}
*Norman Edwards, Peter Keys (1996), ''Singapore - A Guide to Buildings, Streets, Places'', Times Books International, ISBN 9971-65-231-5
*Victor R Savage, Brenda S A Yeoh (2003), ''Toponymics - A Study of Singapore Street Names'', Eastern Universities Press, ISBN 981-210-205-1

==External links==
*[http://www.chinatown.sg/ Official Singapore Chinatown website]
*[http://www.chinatownheritagecentre.com.sg/ Chinatown Heritage Centre]
*{{Wikivoyage-inline}}
*[http://www.visitsingapore.com/publish/stbportal/en/home/what_to_see/ethnic_quarters/chinatown/kreta_ayer.html Kreta Ayer on Visitsingapore.com]
*[http://www.singaporevr.com/vrs/chinatown/chinatown2009.html 360° X 360° interactive VR of Chinatown]
*[http://www.chinatownology.com Chinatownology: Singapore Chinatown]
*[http://www.kacc.org.sg Kreta Ayer Community Centre website]
* [http://www.think-magazine.com/issue3/03/5.html The Streets of Chinatown from Think Singapore]
* [http://living-wellness.com/ Living Wellness @ Chinatown Pagoda Street]
{{Roads and streets in Chinatown, Singapore}}
{{Places in Singapore}}
{{China Town}}

{{coord missing|Singapore}}

[[Category:Chinatown, Singapore| ]]
[[Category:Places in Singapore]]
[[Category:Protected areas of Singapore]]
[[Category:Visitor attractions in Singapore]]
[[Category:Outram, Singapore]]
[[Category:Chinatowns in Asia|Singapore]]

[[zh-min-nan:Gû-chia-chúi]]
[[hak:Ngiù-Chhâ-Súi]]
[[ko:우차수]]
[[id:Chinatown, Singapura]]
[[ms:Kreta Ayer]]
[[fi:Chinatown (Singapore)]]
[[zh:牛車水]]

Leicester House

2012-11-29T00:45:11Z

Hazard-Bot: Bot: Replacing {{Wikitravel}} with {{Wikivoyage-inline}}

{{Coord|51|30|37|N|0|7|49|W|region:GB_type:landmark|display=title}}
[[Image:LS night time.jpg|thumb|upright=1.5|Leicester Square at night in December 2005: a view towards the northeast corner.]]
'''Leicester Square''' {{IPAc-en|audio=Leicestersq.ogg|ˈ|l|ɛ|s|t|ɚ}} is a [[pedestrian]]ised [[city square|square]] in the [[West End of London|West End]] of [[London]]. The Square lies within an area bound by Lisle Street, to the north; [[Charing Cross Road]], to the east; Orange Street, to the south; and Whitcomb Street, to the west. The park at the centre of the Square is bound by Cranbourn Street, to the north; Leicester Street, to the east; Irving Street, to the south; and a section of road designated simply as Leicester Square, to the west. It is within the [[City of Westminster]], and about equal distances (about {{convert|400|yd|disp=/}}) north of [[Trafalgar Square]], east of [[Piccadilly Circus]], west of [[Covent Garden]], and south of [[Cambridge Circus, London|Cambridge Circus]].

==History==
[[Image:Leicester Square en 1750.JPG|thumb|Leicester Square in 1750, looking north. The large house set behind a forecourt at the northeast corner is Leicester House, then the residence of [[Frederick, Prince of Wales]].]]
[[Image:Leicester Square c1880.jpg|thumb|Leicester Square in 1880, looking north east.]]
The Square is named after [[Robert Sidney, 2nd Earl of Leicester]], who purchased four [[acre]]s (1.6 [[hectare]]s) in St. Martin's Field in 1630; by 1635, he had built himself a large house, Leicester House, at the northern end. The area in front of the house was then enclosed, depriving inhabitants of [[St Martin in the Fields (parish)|St Martin in the Fields]] parish of their right to use the previously common land. The parishioners appealed to [[Charles I of England|King Charles I]], and he appointed three members of the [[Privy Council]] to arbitrate. Lord Leicester was ordered to keep part of his land (thereafter known as Leicester Field and later as Leicester Square) open for the parishioners.<ref name=north>[http://www.british-history.ac.uk/report.aspx?compid=41120 ''Leicester Square, North Side, and Lisle Street Area: Leicester Estate: Leicester House and Leicester Square North Side (Nos 1-16)'', Survey of London: volumes 33 and 34: St Anne Soho (1966), pp. 441-472] accessed: 06 November 2007</ref>

The area was developed in the 1670s. It was initially fashionable and Leicester House was once residence of [[Frederick, Prince of Wales]] but by the late 18th century, the Square was no longer a smart address and began to serve as a venue for popular entertainments. Leicester House became home of a museum of natural curiosities called the [[Holophusikon]] in the 1780s and was demolished about 1791–1792.<ref name=north/>

In 1848, Leicester Square was the subject of the land-law case of ''[[Tulk v. Moxhay]]''. The plot's previous owner had agreed upon a covenant not to erect buildings. However, the law would not allow purchasers who were not 'privy' to the initial contract to be bound by subsequent promises. The judge, [[Charles Pepys, 1st Earl of Cottenham|Lord Cottenham]], decided that future owners could be bound by promises to abstain from activity. Otherwise, a buyer could sell land to himself to undermine an initial promise.<ref>''Tulk v. Moxhay'' (1848) 41 ER 1143 (Court Rolls)</ref> Arguments continued about the fate of the garden, with [[Charles Augustus Tulk]]'s heirs erecting a wooden hoarding around the property in 1873. Finally, in 1874 the flamboyant [[Albert Grant (company promoter)|Albert Grant]] (1830–1899) purchased the outstanding freeholds and donated the garden to the [[Metropolitan Board of Works]], laying out a garden at his own expense. The title passed to the succeeding public bodies and is now in the ownership of the City of Westminster.<ref>[http://www.british-history.ac.uk/report.aspx?compid=41119 ''Leicester Square Area: Leicester Estate'', Survey of London: volumes 33 and 34: St Anne Soho (1966), pp. 416-440] accessed: 06 November 2007</ref>

By the 19th century, Leicester Square was known as an entertainment venue, with many amusements peculiar to the era, including [[Wyld's Great Globe]], which was built for the [[Great Exhibition]] of 1851 and housed a giant scale map of the Earth.<ref>[http://www.victorianlondon.org/districts/leicestersquare.htm ''A Journey Round the Globe'' ''Punch'' (Jul.-Dec. 1851) (Victorian London)] accessed 6 November 2007</ref> Several hotels grew up around the square, making it popular with visitors to London. The [[Alhambra Theatre|Alhambra]], a large theatre built in 1854, dominated the site,<ref name=Lloyd>[http://www.arthurlloyd.co.uk/Alhambra.htm ''Alhambra Theatre'' (Arthur Lloyd)] accessed 23 October 2007</ref> to be joined in 1884 by the [[Empire, Leicester Square|Empire Theatre of Varieties]]. The square remains the heart of the West End entertainment district today.

During the Labour government's 1979 [[Winter of Discontent]], refuse collectors went on strike. Leicester Square was used as an overflow dump, earning it the nickname of "[[wikt:fester|Fester]] Square".<ref>{{Cite news|url=http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/uk_politics/7598366.stm|title= Then was the winter of our discontent|work=BBC News|accessdate=2009-06-07 | date=2008-09-05}}</ref>

==Features==
===Gardens===
[[Image:Shakespeare_fountain_and_statue_(Leicester_Square)_2008.jpg|thumb|right|The Shakespeare fountain and statue]]
In the middle of the Square is a small park, in the centre of which is a 19th century statue of [[William Shakespeare]] surrounded by [[dolphins]]. The four corner gates of the park have one bust each, depicting Sir [[Isaac Newton]], the scientist; Sir [[Joshua Reynolds]], the first President of the [[Royal Academy]]; [[John Hunter (surgeon)|John Hunter]], a pioneer of surgery; and [[William Hogarth]], the painter. The most recent addition is a statue of film star and director [[Charlie Chaplin]]. On the pavement are inscribed the distances in miles to countries of the former [[British Empire]].

===Entertainment===
[[File:Maggie Smith handprints in Leicester Square WC2 - geograph.org.uk - 1352179.jpg|thumb|Maggie Smith's handprints]]
Leicester Square is the centre of London's [[movie theater|cinema]] land, and one of the signs marking the Square bears the legend "[[Theatreland]]". It is claimed that the Square contains the cinema with the largest screen and the cinema with the most seats (over 1600). The square is the prime location in London for world leading film premières and has seen [[blockbuster (entertainment)|blockbusters]] including ''[[Harry Potter (film series)|Harry Potter]]'' and ''[[James Bond (film series)|James Bond]]'' film series, ''[[Avatar (2009 film)|Avatar]]'', ''[[Alice in Wonderland (2010 film)|Alice in Wonderland]]'', and animation films such as [[Shrek]]; and co-hosts the London Film Festival each year.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://cinematreasures.org/theater/841/ |title=Cinema Treasures - Odeon Leicester Square |accessdate=2009-11-16 |coauthors=Steffan Laugharne, Ken Roe |work=Cinema Treasures }}</ref><ref>[http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/entertainment/6146090.stm Stars out for Bond royal premiere] ''[[BBC News]]'' (14 November 2006) Retrieved 24 March 2011</ref><ref>[http://www.mtv.co.uk/entertainment/harry-potter/gallery/245831-world-premiere-of-harry-potter-and-the-deathly-hallows-par Odeon Leicester Square: World Premiere of 'Harry Potter' And The Deathly Hallows Pt 1] ''[[MTV]]'' Retrieved 24 March 2011</ref><ref>[http://www.telegraph.co.uk/culture/culturepicturegalleries/6787259/The-world-premiere-of-Avatar-at-Odeon-Leicester-Square.html The world premiere of Avatar at Odeon Leicester Square] ''[[The Daily Telegraph|The Telegraph]]'' Retrieved 24 March 2011</ref><ref>[http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/picturegalleries/celebritynews/7320490/Alice-in-Wonderland-premiere-in-Leicester-Square-London.html Alice in Wonderland premiere in Leicester Square, London] ''The Telegraph'' Retrieved 24 March 2011</ref> Similar to [[Grauman's Chinese Theatre]] in [[Hollywood, CA|Hollywood]], the square is surrounded by floor mounted plaques with film stars names and cast handprints.

The Square is also the home for ''tkts'', formerly known as the Official London Half-Price Theatre Ticket Booth. This booth is jointly operated by TKTS and LondonTown.com. Tickets for [[theatre]] performances taking place around the West End that day are sold from the booth for about half the usual price. The popularity of the booth has given rise to many other booths and stores around the Square that advertise half-price tickets for West End shows. It is claimed that at least some of these booths operate [[fraud]]ulently. Despite having names like 'Official Half-Price Ticket Booth', they are not official and they do not always advertise the booking fees which commonly come with purchasing tickets.

The Square is home to several [[nightclub]]s, making it often very busy, particularly on Friday and Saturday evenings.

====Major cinemas====
[[Image:15-11-05 09 Leicester Square.jpg|thumb||Leicester Square's Odeon.]]
[[Image:Empire at Leicester Square London.jpg|thumb||right|Leicester Square's Empire on a rainy night in May 2003]]
*[[Odeon Leicester Square]], which dominates the east side of the square, had the first digital projector in [[Europe]] (1999), hosting most premieres with capacity for 1683 people, arranged in circle and stalls.
*The adjacent Odeon Mezzanine has five smaller auditoria (capacities of 50–60 each).
*[[Empire, Leicester Square|Empire]], on the north of the Square, is the next-largest cinema, with 1,330 seats in the main screen, as well as eight smaller screens, with 349, 96, 58, 49, 48, 42 and 23 seats. Eight of the screens are digital. The main screen and one smaller one can also play 3D films. Many premieres are hosted here.

*[[Odeon West End]], on the south side, contains two screens, which can seat 1,000 altogether. Screen 1 holds 400 people and Screen 2 holds 600. It is used for smaller premieres.
*[[Vue (cinema)|Vue]], on the north side, near the north east corner, was previously the [[Warner Brothers Village]], a multiplex that hosted only [[Warner Bros.]] film premieres. Together with the rest of the [[Warner Village Cinemas|Warner Village]] chain, it was bought out by Vue in 2004.

====Other cinemas====
*A short distance from the west of the Square, on the south side of Panton Street, is the Odeon Panton Street, another four-screen Odeon cinema.
*Just to the North of the square, [[Prince Charles Cinema]] is a cheap-ticket second-run and [[cult film|cult]] cinema famed for its regular showing of ''[[The Rocky Horror Picture Show]]'' and a sing-along version of ''[[The Sound of Music (film)|The Sound of Music]]''.
* Cineworld is a short distance down [[Coventry Street]] in the [[Trocadero Centre]].

====Clubs, bars, restaurants====
Just off Leicester Square
*[[Hippodrome, London]]
*[[The Venue Leicester Square]] (West End theatre)

===Media===
[[Global Radio]] has its headquarters on the east side of Leicester Square, close to the [[Odeon Leicester Square]]. The building houses the radio stations [[Capital (radio network)|Capital]], [[Classic FM (UK)|Classic FM]], [[Choice FM]], [[Gold (radio)|Gold]], [[The Heart FM Network|Heart]], [[LBC]] and [[Xfm London]].

In what was formerly [[Home (Nightclub)|Home]] (a seven-floor [[superclub]] launched in 1999, which went into receivership<ref>{{Cite news| url=http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/entertainment/music/1273766.stm | work=BBC News | title=Home club owners in receivership | date=2001-04-12 | accessdate=2010-05-07}}</ref> after having its licence revoked by police for one month<ref>{{Cite news| url=http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/entertainment/music/1251385.stm | work=BBC News | title=Home nightclub shut by police | date=2001-03-30 | accessdate=2010-05-07}}</ref> in March 2001 because of drugs issues, and at which [[Paul Oakenfold]] was a resident [[disc jockey|D.J.]]), is now an [[MTV UK]] television studio, used for the UK version of ''[[Total Request Live]]'' and the [[Russell Brand]]–fronted show ''1 Leicester Square''. It was also used for the first series of BBC Saturday morning show ''[[TMi]]''.

Leicester Square is mentioned in the song "Emit Remmus" on the ''[[Californication (album)|Californication]]'' album by the [[Red Hot Chili Peppers]].

===Other attractions===
[[Image:Leicester Square Christmas Fair.jpg|thumb|200px||right|Leicester Square Christmas Fair.]]The square regularly hosts a fair each winter and a stage is erected for performances connected to other events such as the [[Chinese New Year]].

===Infrastructure===
The main [[electrical substation]] for the West End is beneath the Square. The electrical cables to the substation are in a large tunnel ending at Leicester Square, and originating in [[Wimbledon, London|Wimbledon]], at Plough Lane, behind the former [[Wimbledon FC]] football ground, before which the cables are above ground.<ref>[http://tdworld.com/mag/power_tunneling_london_developments/ ''Tunnelling Under London: Developments in cable tunnel design provide an economic and environmental solution to system reinforcement'' John Mathews (London Electricity, 1996)] accessed 6 November 2007</ref>

===Redevelopment===
[[File:Redeveloped_Leicester_Square.jpg|thumb|Redeveloped Leicester Square]]
The square has undergone significant redevelopment in recent years. The works have retained the square's historic character, whilst enhancing its function as a backdrop for film premieres. The works commenced in December 2010, lasting for 17 months before being reopened on 24 May 2012, in time for the [[2012 Summer Olympics]].<ref>{{Cite news| url=http://www.independent.co.uk/news/uk/home-news/newlook-leicester-square-reopens-7781842.html | work=The Independent | title=New-look Leicester Square reopens | date=2012-05-23 | accessdate=2012-05-23}}</ref>

==See also==
*[[Leicester Square tube station]]
* [[List of eponymous roads in London]]

==References==
{{Reflist|2}}

==External links==
{{Commons category}}
{{Wikivoyage-inline|London/Leicester Square}}
*[http://www.coventgarden.uk.com/featureshistory/fh_streets.php?street=63&submit=Go&submitted=TRUE&p_id=features&c_id=street History of Leicester Square]
*[http://www.radissonedwardian.co.uk/leicester-sq-webcam.html Leicester Square Webcam - 8 preset views from the Radisson Edwardian Hampshire Hotel]
*[http://www.british-history.ac.uk/report.asp?compid=41120 Detailed information about the history and buildings of Leicester Square from the Survey of London]
*[http://www.camvista.com/england/london/leicestersquare.php3 Leicester Square webcam]
*[http://www.victorianlondon.org/districts/leicestersquare.htm More on the history of Leicester Square at www.VictorianLondon.org]
*[http://www.lsq.tv Leicester Square Television]
*[http://www.arthurlloyd.co.uk/LeicesterSquareTheatresandCinemas.htm History of Leicester Square's Theatres and Cinemas]

{{London landmarks}}
{{Use dmy dates|date=September 2010}}
[[Category:Streets in Westminster]]
[[Category:Visitor attractions in London]]
[[Category:Squares in Westminster]]
[[Category:Global Radio]]

[[cs:Leicester Square]]
[[cy:Sgwâr Leicester]]
[[da:Leicester Square]]
[[de:Leicester Square]]
[[es:Leicester Square]]
[[fr:Leicester Square]]
[[ga:Cearnóg Leicester]]
[[is:Leicester Square]]
[[it:Leicester Square]]
[[he:כיכר לסטר]]
[[ms:Dataran Leicester]]
[[nl:Leicester Square]]
[[ja:レスター・スクウェア]]
[[no:Leicester Square]]
[[nn:Leicester Square]]
[[pl:Leicester Square]]
[[scn:Leicester Square]]
[[sk:Leicester Square]]
[[sv:Leicester Square]]
[[tr:Leicester Meydanı]]
[[zh:萊斯特廣場]]

Sundarbans-Nationalpark

2012-11-28T06:01:01Z

Hazard-Bot: Bot: Replacing {{Wikitravel}} with {{Wikivoyage-inline}}

{{Infobox protected area
| name = Sundarbans National Park of bangladesh
| alt_name = {{lang-bn|সুন্দরবন জাতীয় উদ্যান ''Shundorbôn Jatio Uddan''}}
| iucn_category = II
| photo = Sundarban mangrove.jpg
| photo_alt =
| photo_caption = Mangrove trees in Sundarbans
| photo_width =
| map = Bangladesh
| map_alt =
| map_caption = Location in West Bengal, India
| map_width =
| location = [[South 24 Parganas]], [[West Bengal]], India
| nearest_city = [[Kolkata]]
| lat_d = 21
| lat_m = 56
| lat_s = 42
| lat_NS = N
| long_d = 88
| long_m = 53
| long_s = 45
| long_EW = E
| coords_ref =
| region = IN
| area = {{convert|1330.12|km2|acre|abbr=on}}
| established = 1984
| visitation_num =
| visitation_year =
| governing_body = [[Government of Bangladesh]],
| world_heritage_site =
| url =
| embedded1 = {{designation list | embed=yes
| designation1 = WHS
| designation1_date = [[List of World Heritage Sites by year of inscription#1987 (11th session)|1987]] (11th [[World Heritage Committee|session]])
| designation1_type = Natural
| designation1_criteria = ix, x
| designation1_number = [http://whc.unesco.org/en/list/452 452]
| designation1_free1name = State Party
| designation1_free1value = Bangladesh
| designation1_free2name = Region
| designation1_free2value = [[List of World Heritage Sites in Asia and Australasia|Asia-Pacific]]

}}
}}

The '''Sundarbans National Park''' সুন্দরবন জাতীয় উদ্যান is a [[National Park]], [[Tiger Reserve]], and a [[Biosphere Reserve]] located in the [[Sundarbans]] [[River delta|delta]] in the [[Bangladesh]]n গণপ্রজাতন্ত্রী বাংলাদেশ Division of [[Barisall]]. This region is densely covered by [[mangrove]] forests, and is one of the largest reserves for the [[Bengal tiger]]. It is also home to a variety of bird, [[reptile]] and [[invertebrate]] species, including the salt-water [[crocodile]]. The present Sundarbans National Park was declared as the core area of Sundarbans Tiger Reserve in 1973 and a wildlife sanctuary in 1977. On May 4, 1984 it was declared a National Park.

== Administration ==
[[File:Sunderbans map.png|thumb|right|400px|A map of the protected areas of the Bangladesh Sunderbans, showing the boundaries of the Tiger Reserve, the National Park and the three Wildlife Sanctuaries, conservation and lodging centers, subsistence towns, and access points. The entire forested (dark green) area constitutes the Biosphere Reserve, with the remaining forests outside the national park and wildlife sanctuaries being given the status of a [[Reserve Forests of Bangladesh|Reserve Forest]].]]

The Directorate of Forest is responsible for the administration and management of Sundarbans. The principal Chief Conservator of Forests, Wildlife & Bio-Diversity & ex-officio Chief Wildlife Warden, West Bengal is the senior most executive officer looking over the administration of the park. The Chief Conservator of Forests (South) & Director, Sundarban Biosphere Reserve is the administrative head of the park at the local level and is assisted by a Deputy Field Director and an Assistant Field Director. The park area is divided into two ranges, overseen by range forest officers. Each range is further sub-divided into beats. The park also has floating watch stations and camps to protect the property from poachers.

The park receives financial aid from the State Government as well as the [[Ministry of Environment and Forests (Bangladesh)|Ministry of Environment and Forests]] of [[Government of Bangladesh]] under various Plan and Non-Plan Budgets. Additional funding is received under the [[Project Tiger]] from the Central Government. In 2001, a grant of [[US$]] 20,000 was received as a preparatory assistance for promotion between India and [[Bangladesh]] from the [[World Heritage Fund]].

==Geography==
Sundarbans National Park is located in between 30° 24' - 30° 28' N latitude and between 77° 40' - 77° 44' E longitude in the [[Barisal]] district in the Bangladeshi Division of Barisal. The average altitude of the park is 7.5 m above sea level. The park is made up of 54 small islands and is crisscrossed by several tributaries of the [[Ganges]].

Sundarbans National Park is the largest estuarine mangrove forest in the world.

===Climate===
The average minimum and maximum temperature is 20 °C and 48 °C respectively. Rainfall is heavy with humidity as high as 80% as it is close to the [[Bay of Bengal]]. The [[monsoon]] lasts from mid-June to mid-September. Prevailing wind is from the north and north-east from October to mid-March and south west westerlies prevails from mid-March to September. Storms which sometimes develop into cyclones are common during the months of May and October.

===Eco-geography, rivers and watercourses===
There are seven main rivers and innumerable watercourses forming a network of channels at this estuarine delta. All the rivers have a southward course towards the sea. The eco-geography of this area is totally dependent on the tidal effect of two flow tides and two ebb tides occurring within 24 hours with a tidal range of 3-5m and up to 8m<ref>Ghosh & Mandal, 1989; Banerjee, 1998</ref> in normal spring tide, inundating the whole of Sunderbans in varying depths. The tidal action deposits silts back on the channels and raising the bed, it forms new islands and creeks contributing to uncertain geomorphology.<ref>Bhattacharya, 1989</ref> There is a great natural depression called “Swatch of No Ground” in the Bay of Bengal between [[21st parallel north|21°00']] to 21°22' latitude where, the depth of water changes suddenly from 20m to 500m.<ref>Fergusson, 1963; Ghosh & Mandal, 1989</ref> This mysterious depression pushes back the silts towards south and/or further east to form new islands.

===Mudflats===
The Sunderbans mudflats<ref>Banerjee, 1998</ref> are found at the estuary and on the deltaic islands where low velocity of river and tidal current occurs. The flats are exposed in low tides and submerged in high tides, thus being changed morphologically even in one tidal cycle. The interior parts of the mudflats are the right environment for mangroves.

Chargheri Char in the Sundarbans National Park is a mudflat which is being developed as a tourist spot in the Sundarbans. One can visit it and enjoy the beauty of the place during low tide. If one is lucky, one can see Sea Anemones, Horseshoe crab (Nearing extinction)and small octopus. A must see spot for tourists visiting Sundarbans

===Flora and fauna===
The coastal active delta of Sunderbans at the mouth of Bay of Bengal in Bangladesh, having a complex geomorphologic and hydrological character with climatic hazards, has a vast area of mangrove forests with a variety of flora and diverse fauna in a unique ecosystem. The natural environment and coastal ecosystem of this Biosphere Reserve and World Heritage Site is under threat of physical disaster due to unscientific and excessive human interferences. Conservation and environmental management plan for safeguarding this unique coastal ecology and ecosystem is urgently required.

====Flora====
The mangrove vegetation of Sundarbans consists of 64 plant species<ref name=WCMC>{{cite web | url = http://www.unep-wcmc.org/sites/wh/pdf/Sundarbans%20%5Bboth%5D.pdf | title = Natural site datasheet from WCMC | publisher = [[World Conservation Monitoring Centre]]}}</ref> and they have the capacity to withstand estuarine conditions and saline inundation on account of tidal effects. In the month of April and May the flaming red leaves of the Genwa (''[[Excoecaria agallocha]]'') the crab-like red flowers of the Kankra (''[[Bruguiera gymnorrhiza]]'') and the yellow flowers of Khalsi (''[[Aegiceras corniculatum]]'') can be seen. Some of the other commonly found plants and trees in the park are Dhundal (or cannonball mangrove, ''[[Xylocarpus granatum]]''), Passur (''[[Xylocarpus]] mekongensis''), Garjan (''[[Rhizophora]]'' spp.), Sundari (''[[Heritiera fomes]]'') and Goran (''[[Ceriops]] decandra'').

====Fauna====
The Sundarbans forest is home to more than 400 tigers. The Royal Bengal Tigers have developed a unique characteristic of swimming in the saline waters, and are famous for their man-eating tendencies. Tigers can be seen on the river banks sunbathing between November and February.

Apart from the [[Bengal Tiger|Royal Bengal Tiger]]; [[Fishing Cat]]s, [[Leopard Cat]]s, [[Macaque]]s, [[Wild Boar]], [[Indian Grey Mongoose]], [[Fox]], [[Jungle Cat]], [[Flying Fox]], [[Pangolin]], [[Chital]], are also found in abundance in the Sundarbans.

====Census results====

{|class="sortable wikitable"
|-----
! '''Year of census'''
! '''Spotted deer'''
! '''Rhesus'''
! '''Monitor lizard'''
! '''Wild boar'''
!! colspan="4" | '''South 24 Parganas Tiger Population'''
!! colspan="5" | ''' Sunderbans Tiger Reserve Tiger Population'''
|-----
! |
! |
! |
! |
! |
! '''Male'''
! '''Female'''
! '''Cub'''
! '''Total'''
! '''Male'''
! '''Female'''
! '''Cub'''
! '''Total'''
! '''Estimated'''
|-----
| align="right" | 1973
| align="right" |
| align="right" |
| align="right" |
| align="right" |
| align="right" |
| align="right" |
| align="right" |
| align="right" |
| align="right" colspan="3"| Incomplete census
| align="right" | 50+
| align="right" | 50+
|-----
| align="right" | 1976
| align="right" |
| align="right" |
| align="right" |
| align="right" |
| align="right" |
| align="right" |
| align="right" |
| align="right" |
| align="right" | 66
| align="right" | 72
| align="right" | 43
| align="right" | 181
| align="right" | 181
|-----
| align="right" | 1977
| align="right" |
| align="right" |
| align="right" |
| align="right" |
| align="right" |
| align="right" |
| align="right" |
| align="right" |
| align="right" colspan="3"| Sex not determined
| align="right" | 205
| align="right" | 205
|-----
| align="right" | 1983
| align="right" |
| align="right" |
| align="right" |
| align="right" |
| align="right" |
| align="right" |
| align="right" |
| align="right" |
| align="right" | 137
| align="right" | 115
| align="right" | 12
| align="right" | 264
| align="right" | 264
|-----
| align="right" | 1989
| align="right" | 30,886
| align="right" |
| align="right" |
| align="right" |
| align="right" |
| align="right" |
| align="right" |
| align="right" |
| align="right" | 129
| align="right" | 109
| align="right" | 34
| align="right" | 269
| align="right" | 269
|-----
| align="right" | 1992
| align="right" |
| align="right" |
| align="right" |
| align="right" |
| align="right" |
| align="right" |
| align="right" |
| align="right" |
| align="right" | 92
| align="right" | 132
| align="right" | 27
| align="right" | 251
| align="right" | 251
|-----
| align="right" | 1993
| align="right" | 30,978
| align="right" | 37,691
| align="right" | 10,272
| align="right" | 11,869
| align="right" |
| align="right" |
| align="right" |
| align="right" |
| align="right" |
| align="right" |
| align="right" |
| align="right" |
| align="right" |
|-----
| align="right" | 1996
| align="right" |
| align="right" |
| align="right" |
| align="right" |
| align="right" |
| align="right" |
| align="right" |
| align="right" |
| align="right" | 95
| align="right" | 126
| align="right" | 21
| align="right" | 242
| align="right" | 242
|-----
| align="right" | 1997
| align="right" |
| align="right" |
| align="right" |
| align="right" |
| align="right" | 13
| align="right" | 16
| align="right" | 6
| align="right" | 35
| align="right" | 99
| align="right" | 137
| align="right" | 27
| align="right" | 263
| align="right" | 298
|-----
| align="right" | 1999
| align="right" |
| align="right" |
| align="right" |
| align="right" |
| align="right" | 9
| align="right" | 16
| align="right" | 5
| align="right" | 30
| align="right" | 96
| align="right" | 131
| align="right" | 27
| align="right" | 254
| align="right" | 284
|-----
| align="right" | 2001
| align="right" |
| align="right" |
| align="right" |
| align="right" |
| align="right" | 7
| align="right" | 13
| align="right" | 6
| align="right" | 26
| align="right" | 93
| align="right" | 129
| align="right" | 23
| align="right" | 245
| align="right" | 271
|-----
| align="right" | 2004
| align="right" |
| align="right" |
| align="right" |
| align="right" |
| align="right" | 7
| align="right" | 14
| align="right" | 4
| align="right" | 25
| align="right" | 83
| align="right" | 133
| align="right" | 33
| align="right" | 249
| align="right" | 274
|}

====Avifauna====
[[File:Alcedo meninting.jpg|thumb|Blue-eared Kingfisher sighted in the Sundarbans.]]
Some of the birds commonly found in this region are [[openbill stork]]s, [[black-headed ibis]], [[Water Hen]]s, [[Coot]]s, [[Pheasant-tailed Jacana]]s, [[Pariah Kite]]s, [[Brahminy Kite]], [[Marsh-harrier|Marsh Harriers]], [[Swamp Partridges]], [[Red Junglefowl]]s, [[Spotted Doves]], [[Common Mynahs]], [[Jungle Crow]]s, [[Jungle Babbler]]s, [[Cotton Teal]]s, [[Herring Gulls]], [[Caspian Tern]]s, [[Gray Heron]]s, [[Common Snipe]]s, [[Wood Sandpiper]]s, [[Green pigeon|Green Pigeon]]s, [[Rose Ringed Parakeet]]s, [[paradise-flycatcher]]s, [[cormorant]]s, [[Grey-headed Fish Eagle]]s, [[White-bellied Sea Eagle]]s, [[Seagulls]], [[Common Kingfishers]], [[Peregrine falcons]], [[Woodpeckers]], [[Whimbrel]]s, [[Black-tailed Godwit]]s, [[Little Stint]]s, [[Calidris tenuirostris|Eastern Knot]]s, [[Curlews]], [[Golden Plover]]s, [[Northern Pintail]]s, [[White-eyed Pochard]]s and [[Dendrocygna javanica|Whistling teal]]s.

====Aqua fauna====
Some of the fish and amphibians found in the park are [[Sawfish]], [[Butter Fish]], [[Electric ray]]s, [[Silver carp]], [[Starfish|Star Fish]], [[Common Carp]], [[King crab|King Crabs]], [[Prawn]], [[Shrimps]], [[Ganges and Indus River Dolphin|Gangetic Dolphins]], [[Skipping Frogs]], [[Common Toad]]s and [[Tree Frogs]].

====Reptiles====
[[File:Big croc.jpg|thumb| right| 220px| A crocodile at Sundarbans.]]
The Sundarbans National Park houses a large number of reptiles as well, including [[Saltwater Crocodile|estuarine crocodiles]], [[chameleon]]s, [[monitor lizard]]s, turtles, including [[Olive Ridley]], [[Hawksbill turtle|hawksbill]], and [[green turtle]]s; and [[snake]]s including [[Pythonidae|pythons]], [[King Cobra]]s, [[rat snake]]s, [[Daboia|Russell's vipers]], [[Dog Faced Water Snakes]], [[Chequered Killbacks]], and [[Common Krait]]s.

====Endangered species====
The endangered species that lives within the Sundarbans are Royal Bengal Tiger, [[Saltwater Crocodile]], [[Batagur baska|River Terrapin]], [[Olive Ridley Turtle]], [[Gangetic dolphin]], [[Ground Turtle]], [[Hawks Bill Turtle]] and [[Mangrove horseshoe crab]].

==Management and special projects==
[[File:Sundarban police boat.jpg|thumb|Patrolling boat in Sundarbans]]
The park has had protection since its creation. The core area is free from all human disturbances like collection of wood, honey, fishing and other forest produces. However, in the buffer area fishing, honey collection and wood cutting are permitted in limited form. Protection of the park from poaching and theft of forest products is done by well armed forest staff who patrol in motorboats and launches. Forest offices and camps are located at several important parts of the park. Anti-[[poaching]] camps are manned by two to three knowledgeable labourers under supervision of concerned beat guard/Forester/[[Conservation officer|Range officer]].

Habitat of wildlife is maintained through eco-conservation, eco-development, training, education and research. Ten Forest Protection Committees and 14 Eco-development Committees have been formed in the fringe of Sundarbans Tiger Reserve to help in this regard. Seminars, workshops and awareness camps are organised in the vicinity of park to educate the people on eco-conservation, eco-development and such other issues. Mangrove and other plants are planted in the fringe area to meet the local need of [[firewood|fuel wood]] for about 1000 villages and to conserve the buffer area. [[Soil conservation|Conservation of soil]] is done to maintain the ecological balance. Several [[fresh water|sweet water]] ponds have been dug up inside the park to provide drinking water for the wild animals.

Controlling [[man-eating tiger]]s is another major activity. The number of casualties has been reduced from 40 to 10 per year. The reduction in number of casualties is a result of strict control over the movement of the people inside the tiger reserve, alternative income generation and awareness building among people. It is also believed that due to use of human masks and electric human dummies the tigers will stay away from the people. Straying of tigers into nearby villages is prevented through measures such as nylon net fencing and solar illumination of villages. The youths of the villages are given training in controlling the straying of tigers into the villages.

The [[Mangrove Interpretation Centre]] is established at [[Sajnekhali]] to make the local people and tourists aware of the importance of conservation of nature in general and specially the mangrove ecosystems.

===Constraints===
Though protection exists in the park, there are a few loopholes. The geographical topography with hostile terrain criss-crossed by several rivers and their tributaries, long international border with [[Bangladesh]], [[fishing trawler]]s and launches enables poaching and the cutting of wood, affecting the mangrove forests. Lack of staff, infrastructure and lack of funds exacerbate the situation.

==Park-specific information==
===Activities===
The only means of travelling the park is to by boat, down the various lanes formed by the many flowing rivers. Local boats or launches operated by the tourism department, namely M.V. ''Chitrarekha'' and M.V. ''Madhukar''.

Apart from viewing the wildlife from boat safaris, visitors also visit the Bhagatpur Crocodile Project, a crocodile breeding farm, [[Sagar Island]], Jambudweep, Sudhanyakali watchtower, Buriidabri Tiger Project, Netidhopani Watchtower, [[Haliday Island Wildlife Sanctuary|Haliday Island]], Kanak, and Sajankhali Bird Sanctuary.

===Lodging===
Forest lodge and forest rest-houses are available for accommodation at Sajnekhali, Bakkhali and Piyali. The cruise launches MV Chitralekha and MV Sarbajaya also have lodging facilities.

Lodging facilities are also available at Sunderban Tiger Camp on Dayapur Island, a resort overlooking the national park, and at Sundarbans Jungle Camp on Bali Island run by Help Tourism Group with collaboration with local communities and members of Bali Nature and Wildlife Conservation Society.

== Sunderbans Tiger Reserve ==

===Background===
The Sunderbans Tiger Reserve is located in [[South 24 Parganas district|South 24 Paraganas]], [[West Bengal]] and has a total geographical area of 2585 km2 with 1437.4 km2 consisting of populated areas and forest covering 1474 km2. Sunderbans landscape is continuous with the mangrove habitat in [[Bangladesh]].

Sunderban mangroves form part of the subcontinent's largest mangrove system with a tiger population in a distinct ecological setting. These forests have salt water crocodiles, estuarine and marine turtles and a number of bird species. Besides tiger, the reserve has fishing cat, spotted deer, rhesus monkey and wild pigs.

The Sunderbans are isolated with no forest connection to other tiger-occupied main land. Hence, there is heavy biotic pressure for forest resources. On average 500 [[quintal]]s of honey and 30 quintals of wax are collected each year by local people under licence from Forest Department. The habitat is traversed by many narrow [[tidal channel]]s forming small to large islands. Tigers readily cross these islands and man-tiger interactions are common.

The estimation of tiger population in Sunderbans, as a part of the all India tiger estimation using the refined methodology, could not be carried out owing to the unique habitat and obliteration of evidences due to high and low tides. Phase-I data collection has been completed and process is on for tiger estimation using a combination of radio [[telemetry]] and [[pugmark]] deposition rate from known tigers.

===Damage from Cyclone Aila===
[[Cyclone Aila]] struck Sunderbans on 25 May 2009, causing damage to field camps and fringe villages bordering the reserve. Breaches in the embankments on the village side have caused large scale flooding, leaving [[lakh]]s of people marooned in the area. The field camps were under 12 to 15 feet of water for around seven hours, resulting in soil erosion and damage to staff quarters, generators and bamboo pilling. There was a report of a tiger wandering inside an abandoned cattle shed in a village, which was captured and released back in the wild. No tiger death has been reported, apart from mortality of two spotted deer. Several [[Non-governmental organization|NGOs]] have been involved in the relief operation.

The Forest Department of the State has constituted a Committee and has assessed a damage of almost Rs. 111.50 lakhs. Central assistance amounting to Rs. 1 [[crore]] under Project Tiger has been provided to the State for restoring the damage done to infrastructure.

===Challenges===
The Sunderbans Tiger Reserve has several challenges to its future operations. Due to wandering tigers, man-tiger conflict continues to be an issue. An estimation of the number of tigers present in the reserve using the refined method has not yet been completed. A tiger conservation plan is awaited as are constitutions for the State level Steering Committee under the Chairmanship of the Chief Minister and the reserve-specific [[National Tiger Conservation Authority|Tiger Conservation Foundation]].

== How to reach ==
'''By Air''': Sundarban National Park is located 140 KM far from Kolkata Airport(Also known as Netaji SubashChandra Bose Airport and DUM Dum Airport) 

'''By Rail''': The nearest Railway station of Sundarban National Park is Canning Railway station which is located 80KM far from Sundarban 

'''By Road''':Sundarban National Park is well connected with kolkata. 
The road map from kolkata to Sundarban National Park 
Kolkata Central Metro > Tollygunge Tram Depot > Garia Main Road > State Highway 1 > Baruipur Canning Road > Cross Basanti Police Station > Take the State Highway 3 Ferry to Gosaba > Sundarban National Park

==References==
{{Reflist}}

==External links==
* [http://www.sundarbansnationalpark.com/ Sundarbans National Park] Bangladesh
*[http://whc.unesco.org/en/list/452 Official UNESCO website entry]
*[http://projecttiger.nic.in/sundarbans.htm Project Tiger Reserves in Bangladesh – Sundarbans]
*[http://www.indiantiger.org/tiger-reserves-in-india/sundarban-national-park-tiger-reserves-in-Bangladesh.html IndianTiger.org Sundarbans National Park]
*[http://www.indiabeacons.com Bangladeshi Wildlife Tours Sundarbans National Park]
*[http://www.sundarbans.net Sundarbans]
* {{Wikivoyage-inline}}
*[http://whc.unesco.org/archive/periodicreporting/APA/cycle01/section2/452.pdf UNESCO Periodic Report]

{{World Heritage Sites in Bangladesh}}
{{Tiger Reserves Of Bangladesh}}
{{National Parks of Bangladesh}}
{{Protected areas of Bengal}}

[[Category:Tiger reserves of Bangladesh]]
[[Category:World Heritage Sites in Bangladesh]]
[[Category:Biosphere reserves of Bangladesh]]
[[Category:National parks of West Bengal]]

গণপ্রজাতন্ত্রী বাংলাদেশ

[[bn:সুন্দরবন জাতীয় উদ্যান]]
[[cs:Národní park Sundarbans]]
[[es:Parque Nacional de Sundarbans]]
[[fa:پارک ملی سانداربنس]]
[[fr:Parc national des Sundarbans]]
[[gu:સુંદરવન]]
[[hi:सुंदरवन राष्ट्रीय उद्यान]]
[[ka:სუნდარბანსის ეროვნული პარკი]]
[[ml:സുന്ദർബൻ ദേശീയോദ്യാനം]]
[[mr:सुंदरबन राष्ट्रीय उद्यान]]
[[ja:スンダルバンス国立公園]]
[[pnb:سندربانز نیشنل پارک]]
[[ru:Сундарбан (национальный парк)]]
[[simple:Sundarbans National Park]]
[[sk:Národný park Sundarban]]
[[fi:Sundarbansin kansallispuisto]]
[[uk:Національний парк Сундарбанс]]
[[vi:Vườn quốc gia Sundarbans]]
[[zh:孙德尔本斯国家公园]]

Leviathan (Erdgasfeld)

2011-11-19T12:39:35Z

Hazard-Bot: /* References */re-categorisation per CFD

{{Update|date=August 2011}}
{{Infobox oil field
| name = Leviathan gas field
| image =
| caption =
| location_map = Israel
| location_map_width =
| location_map_text = Location of Leviathan gas field offshore Israel
| lat_d = 33
| lat_m = 10
| lat_s = 04
| lat_NS = N
| long_d = 33
| long_m = 37
| long_s = 02
| long_EW = E
| coordinates_type = type:waterbody
| coordinates_display= inline,title
| coordinates_ref =
| country = [[Israel]]
| region = Eastern [[Mediterranean Sea]]
| location = Levantine basin
| block = Rachel licence
| offonshore = offshore
| operator = [[Noble Energy]]
| operators =
| partners = Avner Oil and Gas (22.67%) [[Delek|Delek Drilling]] (22.67%) Ratio Oil Exploration (15%) Noble Energy (39.66%)
| contractors =
| discovery = June 2010
| start_development =
| start_production = 2015-2017 (expected)
| abandonment =
| peak_year =
| peak_of_production_gas_mmcuft/d =
| peak_of_production_gas_mmscm/d =
| peak_of_production_gas_bcm/y =
| production_gas_mmcuft/d =
| production_gas_mmscm/d =
| production_gas_bcm/y =
| production_year_gas =
| est_gas_bft = 16000
| est_gas_bcm = 450
| recover_gas_bft =
| recover_gas_bcm =
| formations =
}}

The '''Leviathan gas field''' is a large [[natural gas field]] located in the [[Mediterranean Sea]] off the coast of [[Israel]], discovered in June 2010. The gas field is located roughly {{convert|130|km}} west of [[Haifa]] in waters {{convert|1500|m}} deep in the Levantine basin, a rich hydrocarbon area in one of the world’s larger offshore gas finds of the past decade.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.nytimes.com/2010/12/31/world/middleeast/31leviathan.html?_r=1|title=Gas Field Confirmed Off Coast of Israel|date=30 December 2010|publisher=''New York Times''|accessdate=31 December 2010}}</ref><ref name="post">{{cite web|url=http://www.jpost.com/NationalNews/Article.aspx?id=201439|title=Noble CEO: Leviathan is largest gas find in our history|date=29 December 2010|publisher=''Jerusalem Post''|accessdate=31 December 2010}}</ref><ref>http://www.france24.com/en/20101229-israel-has-enough-gas-become-exporter</ref><ref>http://news.yahoo.com/nphotos/map-locating-gas-fields-which-Israel-hopes-deliver-energy-sufficiency-gas/photo//101229/photos_bs_afp/be382bd28b81ec4198fc065429098608//s:/afp/20101229/wl_mideast_afp/israelusenergygasleviathan</ref>

==History==
The first well, Leviathan 1, was first drilled to a depth of {{convert|5170|m}} where the deposits contained {{convert|16|e12cuft|abbr=off}} of natural gas.<ref name="cubic">{{cite web|url=http://www.offshoreenergytoday.com/noble-energy-announces-significant-discovery-at-leviathan-offshore-israel/|title=Noble Energy announces significant discovery at Leviathan offshore Israel|date=30 December 2010|publisher=Offshore Energy Today|accessdate=31 December 2010}}</ref> The second stage of drilling of the Leviathan 1 well is intended to reach a depth of {{convert|7200|m|ft}} where the estimated natural gas reserve is an additional {{convert|9|e12cuft|abbr=off}}.<ref name="cubic"/> Alongside natural gas the Leviathan gas field is believed to possibly contain {{convert|4.2|Goilbbl}} of oil.<ref name="oil">{{cite web|url=http://www.fastcompany.com/1713023/israel-cyprus-reach-agreement-on-leviathan-levant-basin-natural-gas-field-near-lebanon-and-g|title=Leviathan Gas Field Could Bring Catastrophe or Opportunity to Israel-Lebanon-Cyprus Borders|date=29 December 2010|publisher=Fast Company|accessdate=31 December 2010}}</ref>

At the time of discovery, the Leviathan gas field was the largest find ever discovered in the under-explored area of the [[Mediterranean Sea]] and the largest discovery in the history of [[Noble Energy]]. Noble Energy operates Leviathan with a 39.66% working interest; Isramco Negev 2 holds 28.75%; Delek Drilling holds 22.67%; Avner Oil Exploration holds 22.67%; and Ratio Oil Exploration holds the remaining 15%.<ref name="post"/> The Leviathan gas field is located {{convert|47|km}} south-west of another large gas reserve, namely the [[Tamar gas field]] which was discovered in 2009 and also operated by [[Noble Energy]].<ref name="cubic"/>

==Rights dispute==
[[Lebanon]] initially argued that the field extends into Lebanese waters. Lebanon’s Parliament Speaker [[Nabih Berri]] stated that Israel is “ignoring the fact that according to the maps the deposit extends into Lebanese waters,” Agence France-Presse reported on June 9.<ref name="bw20100624">{{cite news|last=Jonathan Ferziger and David Wainer|title=Landau Says Israel Could Use Force to Shield Gas Find|url=http://www.businessweek.com/news/2010-06-24/landau-says-israel-could-use-force-to-shield-gas-find.html|accessdate=2 January 2011|newspaper=businessweek|date=June 24, 2010}}</ref> Minister of National Infrastructures [[Uzi Landau]] responded “We will not hesitate to use our force and strength to protect not only the rule of law but the international maritime law,” in an interview. Robbie Sable, a professor of international law at Jerusalem’s Hebrew University, has stated that the claim may be complex due to Lebanon's border with Israel being indented, making it harder to establish where Israel’s sea boundary ends and Lebanese waters begin.<ref name="bw20100624"/>

In August 2010, Lebanon submitted to the [[United Nations]] its version of where the maritime border should be, a proposal that did not include the Tamar and Leviathan gas prospects.<ref>[http://www.haaretz.com/print-edition/news/u-s-backs-lebanon-on-maritime-border-dispute-with-israel-1.372377]</ref>

==See also==
*[[Economy of Israel]]
*[[Sarah and Myra]]
*[[Block 12]]

==References==
{{reflist}}
{{Resources in Israel}}
{{coord missing|Israel}}

[[Category:Natural gas fields in Israel]]
[[Category:Israeli–Lebanese conflict]]

[[cs:Leviatan (ložisko zemního plynu)]]
[[he:לווייתן (שדה גז)]]
[[nl:Leviathan-gasveld]]
[[ru:Левиафан (месторождение)]]

Wächter der Zedern

2011-11-19T12:35:39Z

Hazard-Bot: re-categorisation per CFD

{{Refimprove|date=February 2008}}

{{Infobox War Faction
|name= Guardians of the Cedars
|war=[[Lebanese civil war]] (1975-1990)
|image=[[Image:Goclogo.png|frame|centre|Goclogo]]
|caption='''Logo of the Guardians of the Cedars (1974-1990). The motto can be loosely translated as ''"At your service, Lebanon"'''''.
|active=Until 1990 and 2000-present
|leaders= [[Etienne Saqr]]
|clans=[[Lebanese Renewal Party]], [[Lebanese Front]], [[Lebanese Forces]]
|headquarters=[[Ashrafieh]], [[Sabbah]], [[Tel-Aviv]]
|areas=[[East Beirut]], [[Mount Lebanon]], [[South Lebanon]]
|strength=3,000-6,000 fighters
|previous=500-1,000 fighters
|allies=[[Israel Defence Forces]] (IDF), [[South Lebanon Army]] (SLA)
|opponents=[[Lebanese National Movement]] (LNM), [[Palestine Liberation Organization]] (PLO), [[Hezbollah]], [[Jammoul]], [[Syrian Army]]
}}

{{Politics of Lebanon}}

The '''Guardians of the Cedars – GoC''' ([[Arabic]]: حراس الأرز; ''Ḥurrās al-Arz''), also designated '''Gardiens du Cedre''' or '''Gardiens des Cèdres (GdC)''' in [[French language|French]], are a [[far-right]] ultranationalist Lebanese party and former [[militia]] in [[Lebanon]]. It was formed by [[Étienne Saqr]] (also known with the [[kunya (Arabic)|kunya]] or ''nom de guerre'' "Abu Arz" or "Father of the Cedars") and others along with the Lebanese Renewal Party in the early 1970s. It operated in the [[Lebanese Civil War]] under the slogan: ''Lebanon, at your service.''

==Creation==

The Guardians of the Cedars started to form a militia in the years leading up to the Lebanese Civil War and commenced military operations in April 1975.

In [[September 1975]], Communiqué No. 1 was issued to denounce advocates of the partition of Lebanon. The second communiqué contained a bitter attack on the [[Palestinians]]. The third articulated the party's attitude on the issue of Lebanese identity: Lebanon should dissociate itself from Arabism. The party spread its messages by means of [[graffiti]] in East [[Beirut]], including slogans against [[Syria]], the "[[Palestinian people|Palestinian]] Resistance", and [[Pan-Arabism]], sometimes with violent anti-Palestinian tones, as in the slogan على كل لبناني ان يقتل فلسطينياً ("''It is a duty for each Lebanese to kill a Palestinian''").<ref>Chakhtoura, ''La guerre des graffiti'' (2005), p. 121.</ref><ref>Etienne Saqr, "The Ideology of the Guardians of the Cedars" (Lebanon 1977) original Title: من عقيدة حراس الأرز</ref><ref>فضل شرورو "الأحزاب و التنظيمات و القوى في لبنان 1930-1980" بيروت 1981</ref><ref>Micheal Kuderna, "Christliche gruppen im Libanon (Wiesbaden 1983)</ref>

The Guardians of the Cedars joined other pro-status quo, mainly Christian Lebanese militias in 1976 to form the [[Lebanese Front]].

===1970s===
In March 1976, they confronted Palestinian and leftist forces in West [[Beirut]]. A Guardians unit was also dispatched to [[Zaarour]], above the mountain road to [[Zahlé]], to support [[Phalangist]] forces. In April, Guardian fighters held a line in the area of [[Hadeth]], [[Kfar Shima]], and [[Bsaba]], south of Beirut, against a coalition of Palestinian, [[Progressive Socialist Party|PSP]], and [[Syrian Social Nationalist Party|SSNP]] forces.

In the summer of 1976, the Guardians were among the first militias to assault [[Tel al-Zaatar Massacre|Tel al-Zaatar]], the last remaining Palestinian refugee camp in east Beirut. The camp fell after a 52-day siege.

The actions of the Guardians and their allies following the capture of the camp have been widely reported as amounting to a [[Tel al-Zaatar Massacre|massacre]] of many of its civilian inhabitants. During this battle, [[Étienne Saqr|Saqr]] led a unit of Guardians force to [[Chekka]], where Christian civilians were being sieged by leftist-Palestinian forces, and fought off the Palestinian forces.

The Guardians and allied Christian militias then invaded the [[Koura District|Koura]] region in northern Lebanon and reached [[Tripoli, Lebanon|Tripoli]], to support Christian residents trapped by fighting. In 1978 as part of the Lebanese Front they did small attacks on the Syrian army in Beirut and again in 1981 in the Battle of Zahle. This came after the alliance between the Phalanges and most Christian groups with the Syrians had taken a twist.

During the war, the Guardians earned a reputation for specializing in cruelty. Militia members usually tied Palestinian prisoners to the backs of taxis and then dragged them up the motorway into Jounieh. Their carcasses would then be flung into a dried-up riverbed. Commanding his followers to slay all Palestinians, Saqr once stated, "If you feel compassion for the Palestinian women and children, remember they are communists and will bear new communists".<ref name=Fisk>Fisk, ''Pity the Nation'' (2001), p. 85.</ref>

===1980s===
In 1985 the Guardians of the Cedars mounted a fierce defense of [[Kfar-Fallus]] and [[Jezzine]], battling Palestinians and Shiite-Druze militias and protected thousands of Christians in South Lebanon.

Towards the close of the 1980s, and continuing to 2000, most of the remaining fighting in Lebanon occurred in the south, inside the Israeli-occupied zone, under the Southern-Lebanese-Army influence led by [[Saad Haddad]] and later by [[Antoine Lahd]], the latter who had close ties with the [[National Liberal Party (Lebanon)|National Liberal Party]] (Al Ahrar in Arabic). The Guardians and other militias were largely reorganized into the [[South Lebanon Army]], preserving much of the early ideology while adopting new military tactics.

==Military structure and organization==
The LRP militia began to be quietly raised in 1974 by Sakr in his capacity as president of the Party, though it was only in September 1975 when they made their existence public in an official communiqué as the Guardians of the Cedars. Headquartered at the main LRP party’ Offices in [[Ashrafieh]] and personally commanded by Sakr, the GoC initially numbered some 500-1,000 men and women trained by [[Kayrouz Baraket]], a young [[Lebanese Army]] officer, and equipped with obsolete firearms purchased on the [[black market]]. Although the membership of the GoC was exclusively Maronite, Sakr allegedly maintained a loyal personal bodyguard made up of Lebanese [[Shia Muslims]], but little is known about them. The collapse of the Lebanese Army in January 1976 allowed Sakr to recruit army deserters and seize some heavy equipment from its barracks and [[Internal Security Forces]] (ISF) Police stations, swelling the GoC ranks to 3,000-6,000 uniformed militiamen armed with modern small-arms. They were backed by a mechanized force consisting of a single [[M50 Super Sherman]] medium tank, a few [[M42 Duster]]s and [[Chaimite V200]]<ref>http://milinme.wordpress.com/category/v-200-chaimite – An ex-ISF V-200 Chaimite employed by the Guardians of the Cedars pictured at Houche-el-Oumara during the Battle for Zahle, April–June 1981.</ref> armoured cars backed by gun-trucks ([[Land-Rover]]s, [[Toyota]] [[Land Cruiser]]s, [[GMC]] and [[Ford]] light pick-ups, plus US [[M35A2]] 2-1/2 ton cargo trucks) fitted with [[heavy machine guns]] (HMGs), [[recoilless rifles]], and a few [[anti-aircraft]] [[autocannons]].<ref>http://www.alsminiature.com/m.34.gardien.cedre.htm – GoC M34 gun-truck with ZU-23-2 AA autocannon, c.1976.</ref>

Besides being provided with funds and training by the [[Kataeb Party]] and the [[Al-Tanzim]], the Guardians also claimed to have received direct aid from [[Israel]] as early as 1974. They were the only faction of the [[Lebanese Front]] that never received any military aid from [[Syria]], which is hardly surprising, given their strong anti-Syrian views.

In stark contrast to other Christian factions, the LRP/GoC despised any illegal activities such as [[drug-trafficking]], [[extortion]] or looting, and their leader Sakr never sought to establish an autonomous personal fiefdom. Although the Guardians’ did not center their military operations on ‘turf’, they did maintained strongholds at the Maronite quarters of [[East Beirut]], the adjacent [[Metn]] ([[Laqluk]], near [[Akoura]]) region, the [[Batroun]] district ([[Tannourine]]), the eastern [[Keserwan District]] ([[Ayoun es-Simane]]) and the [[Jabal Amel]] region ([[Kfar-Fallus]], [[Jezzine]], [[Marjayoun]], [[Qlayaa]], [[Ain Ebel]], and [[Rumeish]]). In [[May 1979]] they even clashed with the NLP Tigers’ militia in Beirut for control of the [[Fern el-Shebak]] and [[Ain el-Rammaneh]] districts, and for the town of Akoura in the Metn.<ref>O'Ballance, ''Civil War in Lebanon'' (1998), p. 90.</ref>

==Political beliefs==
The Guardians hold to several key beliefs:
* Lebanon is an ancient nation of unique ethnicity.
* Modern Lebanese people descended from the [[Phoenicians]].
* Phoenicia was the father of early [[Western civilization]].<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rvlIrWk9utI|title=Phoenician DNA |publisher=Al Jazeera|date=2009-01-28 |accessdate=2009-10-02}}</ref>

This has led the Guardians of the Cedars to maintain that Lebanese people are not Arabs. The political consequence of this stance advocates the 'de-Arabization' of Lebanon. Similarly, followers draw a distinction between [[Arabic language|Arabic]] and 'Lebanese', aiming to restore the form created by Lebanese philosopher Said Akl. The Guardians of the Cedars have adopted positions hostile to [[Pan-Arabism]]. This is believed to be the main reason why they did not grow as a party in Lebanon outside the Maronite community.

[[Image:Etienne Saqr.JPG|thumb|200px|Etienne Saqr, founder of the Guardians of the Cedars.]]
[[Étienne Saqr|Saqr]] himself had fought against pan-Arab forces back in the [[Lebanon Crisis of 1958]]. During that time [[Camille Chamoun]] entered Lebanon in the [[Baghdad Pact]] led by the US, but faced stiff resistance from a huge section of the Lebanese people, and this later led to the failure of this alliance.

After heavy Palestinian involvement in the [[Lebanese Civil War]], the Guardians cultivated ties with the [[Israel Defense Forces|Israeli military]], receiving weapons and support. Some followers maintain that this was a collaboration of necessity, and not an ideological agreement with the Israelis. Others disagree, claiming that collaboration with Israel was based on the conviction that there was a commonality of interest between the two countries. Other similarly aligned militias, such as the [[Phalangists]], [[National Liberal Party (Lebanon)|Ahrar]] and the [[Tigers Militia (Lebanon)|Tigers]], also cooperated semi-secretly with [[Israel]]. This cooperation was later emphasized by Saqr who said : "Lebanon's power is in Israel's power, and Lebanon's weakness lies in Israel's weakness".

This alliance with Israel played a major role in banning the party, and expelling its members who mostly fled to Israel. Saqr who now lives in Tel Aviv has since admitted that Israel has been funding the group throughout its existence, even before the war began. Saqr is now considered as a traitor to the Lebanese government, alongside the likes of [[Antoine Lahad]] who like Saqr resides in Tel Aviv under Mossad protection.

== Front of the Guardians of the Cedar ==

The '''Front of the Guardians of the Cedar – FGoC''' ([[Arabic]]: ''Al-Jabhat li-Hurras el-Arz''), sometimes known by its Arabic acronym, '''JIHA''', was a pre-dominantly Christian right-wing grouping that appeared in [[1974]]. Apparently a splinter of the Guardians of the Cedars, they held similar views to those of this party – expressed just prior to the war in anti-[[Palestinian people|Palestinian]] graffiti bearing the ‘JIHA’ signature scrubbed in the walls of [[east Beirut]]’s buildings – very little is known about this small and obscure organization. Estimated at about 100 members, the JIHA operated mainly in the eastern sector of the Lebanese Capital during the [[Lebanese_Civil_War#First_phase_of_the_war.2C_1975-77|1975-77 phase of the Lebanese Civil War]], but nothing was heard from them afterwards. It is assumed that they might have been re-absorbed into the GoC or by the [[Lebanese Forces]] in [[1977]].

==Lebanese Renewal Party==

The '''Lebanese Renewal Party – LRP''' ([[Arabic]]: ''Hezb al-Tajaddud al-Lubnaniyya'') or '''Parti de la Renovation Libanaise (PRL)''' in [[French language|French]], is a banned [[political party]] in [[Lebanon]] formed in 1972 as the [[political]] arm of the [[paramilitary]] force known as the Guardians of the Cedars. It is often characterized as [[right-wing]] [[extremist]], but by its followers as a [[Patriotism|patriot]]ic [[nationalist]] movement. The party is still led by its founder, [[Étienne Saqr]] (Abu Arz).{{Citation needed|date=July 2007}}

===History===

It was formed by [[right-wing]] activists opposed to the presence of the [[Palestinian refugee]]s in Lebanon. The refugee population also included a substantial element of [[Palestine Liberation Organization]] (PLO) fighters, especially after the 1970 [[Black September in Jordan|Black September]] events in [[Jordan]]. This created severe tension in Lebanon, and is believed by many to have been a driving factor behind the outbreak of civil war in 1975.{{Citation needed|date=July 2007}}

During the [[Lebanese Civil War]], the party and its militia was a small but active part of the [[Maronite]]-led alliance fighting the [[Palestinians]] represented by the [[Rejectionist Front]] and PLO, and its allies in the [[Lebanese National Movement]] (LNM) of [[Kamal Jumblatt]]. During the early fighting in the war, the party was implicated in the massacres of [[Karantina Massacre|Karantina]] and [[Tel al-Zaatar Massacre|Tel al-Zaatar]]. In 1977, the main Christian-backed militias (LRP plus the [[National Liberal Party (Lebanon)|National Liberal Party]] and the [[Kataeb Party]]) formed the [[Lebanese Front]] coalition. Their militias joined under the name of the [[Lebanese Forces]], but the Lebanese Forces soon fell under the command of [[Bashir Gemayel]] and the Phalange. The LRP and the Guardians of the Cedars were uncompromisingly opposed to the [[Syrian occupation of Lebanon]].{{Citation needed|date=July 2007}}

After the [[1982 Lebanon War]] the party cooperated with [[Israel Defense Forces]], and its militia joined the [[South Lebanon Army]] (SLA). After the withdrawal of Israel from Lebanon in 2000, most of the leadership fled to [[Israel]]. The group was banned by the [[Syria]]n-dominated government and decided to give up its arms to become a traditional political party. It remains banned, and is only a minor force in national life. Still, some of the rhetoric used by the LRP in advocating its domestic policies was revived during the [[Cedar Revolution]] in 2005, which forced the withdrawal of Syria from Lebanon and led to expectations of political reform.{{Citation needed|date=July 2007}}

According to an Israeli military observer Haim 'Arev, the soldiers of the Guardians of the Cedars were the best and most experienced fighters among the militias that constituted the Lebanese Front. He draws a direct connection between the patriotic ideology of the Guardians and the superior battle capacity of their fighters. He states that while the Guardians were among the smaller parties of the Lebanese Civil war, it's idealistic men and women were soldiers of the best caliber. Later, in Southern Lebanon, the Guardians fighters had a reputation for being exceptionally motivated and among the toughest fighters in the ranks of the SLA.<ref>Nisan, ''The conscience of Lebanon'' (2003), p. 45.</ref>

===Ideological beliefs===
{{main|Phoenicianism}}

The Lebanese Renewal Party is [[ethnocentric]], and believes that Lebanon is not an [[Arab]] country. It labored extensively to create or discover non-Arab cultural expressions, and went so far as to design a new [[alphabet]] for [[Lebanese Arabic]], which it claims is a language in its own right. Accordingly, the party was staunchly opposed to [[Pan-Arabism]], which was advocated by many in the LNM and the [[left-wing]] Palestinian movements.

One of the main themes of the party's rhetoric was its preoccupation with ridding Lebanon of Palestinians. It regularly employed [[hate speech]], as when the party asserted that it was "the duty of every Lebanese to kill one Palestinian" and compared them with [[Microorganism|germ]]s, [[snake]]s, and a [[cancer]] in the body of the nation. The party still insists that all Palestinians and Syrians must leave Lebanon.{{Citation needed|date=July 2007}}

Another distinguishing element of the party's politics was that it advocated cooperation with Israel. While there were several other movements on the Christian side in Lebanon that cooperated with Israel during the war, the LNR was the only organization openly and ideologically committed to this, regarding a Lebanese-Israeli axis as the best protection against Arabism and the Palestinians.{{Citation needed|date=July 2007}}

==Attitude towards Palestinians and Lebanese Muslims==

The GoC was strongly anti-Palestinian, and argued for the forcible removal of all Palestinians and other non-Lebanese (e.g. Syrians) from Lebanon, both civilians and armed fighters. Critics labeled this a call for [[ethnic cleansing]] or [[genocide]]. GoC leader [[Étienne Saqr|Saqr]] summed up the organization's attitude to Palestinians in an interview with the ''[[Jerusalem Post]]'' on July 23, 1982:
:"It is the Palestinians we have to deal with. Ten years ago there were 84,000; now there are between 600,000 and 700,000. In six years there will be two million. We can’t let it come to that." His solution: "Very simple. We shall drive them to the borders of brotherly [[Syria]] ... Anyone who looks back, stops or returns will be shot on the spot. We have the moral right, reinforced by well-organized public relations plans and political preparations."

A GoC slogan during the civil war was: "It's the duty of every Lebanese to kill a Palestinian".<ref>[http://www.naharnet.com/domino/tn/NewsDesk.nsf/Lebanon/858942425B8FCE80C225707E00386A11?OpenDocument Naharnet Newsdesk - Guardians of Cedars Party Protests Arrests, Clarifies Stance on Palestinians]</ref>

However, in contrast to the policies of many other sectarian militias (such as the [[Kataeb]]), and to their own attitudes towards Palestinians, the Guardians took some care to avoid the impression of religious conflict with [[Islam in Lebanon|Lebanese Muslims]]. The party, while essentially a Christian militia and in violent conflict with mostly Muslim militias during the war, was formally secularist. It publicly stressed this secular nationalist identity, and denied accusations that it was a sectarian Christian organization.

==End of the militia==
1989 saw the Guardians once more fighting the [[Syria]]ns alongside the [[Lebanese Army]] in support of the Lebanese government of General [[Michel Aoun]]. In a statement in 1990, the GoC greeted the occupation of [[Kuwait]] by [[Saddam Hussein]] by asserting that "Arabism is the undisputed lie of the 20th century." The Guardians called upon the people to rally around the leadership of General Aoun, and demanded the withdrawal of Lebanon from the [[Arab League]].

As the Lebanese Civil War drew to a close in 1990, political changes weakened the right-wing movements which had existed in earlier decades. In October 1990, as part of the end of the war, the reorganized Lebanese government forced Prime Minister [[Michel Aoun|Aoun]] out of power under Syrian demands and commands. From this year on, Syria occupied Lebanon till its withdrawal in 2005.

[[Samir Geagea]]'s [[Lebanese Forces]] militia captured [[Étienne Saqr|Saqr]] because he had supported [[Michel Aoun|Aoun]]. During this incident, he suffered an unspecified injury. He was forced to seek refuge in [[Jezzine]], and finally left Lebanon for Europe after Israel pulled its forces out of Lebanon. Several other members of the Guardians are presently wanted by the Lebanese government, in order to answer for war-crimes.

From the end of the civil war in 1990 until the Israeli withdrawal from Lebanon in 2000 the Guardians of the Cedars formed an element of the now-defunct [[South Lebanon Army]]. Since that date their military operations have ceased and they operate solely politically, campaigning to remove the Syrian presence in Lebanon.

Today, the newly reorganized GoC is a legal and fully functional political party; lately, the term '''Movement of Lebanese Nationalism – MLN''' ([[Arabic]]: ''Harakat al-Qawmiyya al-Lubnaniyya'') was added to its name.

==See also==
*[[Al-Tanzim]]
*[[Étienne Saqr]]
*[[Front for the Liberation of Lebanon from Foreigners]]
*[[Lebanese Front]]
*[[Lebanese Forces]]
*[[Lebanese Civil War]]
*[[Karantina Massacre]]
*[[South Lebanon Army]]
*[[Tel al-Zaatar Massacre]]

==Footnotes==
{{reflist}}

==References==
* [[Edgar O'Ballance]], ''Civil War in Lebanon, 1975-92'', Palgrave Macmillan, London 1998. ISBN 978-0333729757
* Maria Chakhtoura, ''La guerre des graffiti'', Éditions Dar an-Nahar, Beyrouth 2005. (in [[French language|French]])
* [[Mordechai Nisan]], ''The Conscience of Lebanon: A Political Biography of Etienne Sakr (Abu-Arz)'', Frank Cass Publishers, London 2003. ISBN 978-0714683782
* Moustafa El-Assad, ''Blue Steel IV: M-50 Shermans and M-50 APCs in South Lebanon'', Blue Steel books, Sidon 2007.
* Moustafa El-Assad, ''Civil Wars Volume 1: The Gun Trucks'', Blue Steel books, Sidon 2008. ISBN 9953-0-1256-8
* [[Robert Fisk]], ''Pity the Nation: Lebanon at War'', Oxford University Press, 2002. ISBN 0192801309
* Plonka Arkadiusz, ''L’idée de langue libanaise d’après Sa‘īd ‘Aql'', Geuthner, Paris 2004. ISBN 2705337393 (in [[French language|French]])
* Samer Kassis, ''30 Years of Military Vehicles in Lebanon'', Beirut: Elite Group, 2003.

==External links==
* [http://www.lebpolitics.com Lebanese Politics] - Lebanese political discussions
* [http://www.gotc.org/ Guardians of the Cedars] - Official website

{{DEFAULTSORT:Guardians Of The Cedars}}
[[Category:Far-right politics]]
[[Category:Israeli–Lebanese conflict]]
[[Category:Political parties in Lebanon]]
[[Category:Irregular military]]
[[Category:Lebanese Civil War]]

[[ar:حراس الأرز]]
[[fr:Gardiens des Cèdres]]
[[he:שומרי הארזים]]
[[arz:حراس الارز]]
[[nl:Ḥurrās al-Arz]]
[[pl:Strażnicy Cedrów]]
[[yi:טענענבוים היטער]]

Kairoer Abkommen (1969)

2011-11-19T12:33:57Z

Hazard-Bot: /* References */re-categorisation per CFD

The '''Cairo agreement''' or ''Cairo accord'' was an agreement reached on 2 November 1969 during talks between [[Yassir Arafat]] and the [[Lebanon|Lebanese]] army commander General [[Emile Bustani]].<ref name="cobban47">Cobban, 1984, p. 47.</ref> [[Egypt]]ian president [[Gamal Abdel Nasser]] helped to broker the deal.<ref>Roeder & Rothchild, 2005, p. 231.</ref>

Although the text of the agreement was never published, an unofficial (but probably accurate) text appeared in the Lebanese daily newspaper ''[[An-Nahar]]'' on 20 April 1970.<ref name="cobban47"/> The agreement established principles under which the presence and activities of [[Palestinian people|Palestinian]] guerrillas in southeast Lebanon would be tolerated and regulated by the Lebanese authorities.<ref name="cobban47"/><ref name="weisburd">Weisburd, 1997, p. 142.</ref>

Under the agreement the 16 official [[United Nations Relief and Works Agency for Palestine Refugees in the Near East|UNWRA]] camps in Lebanon - home to 300,000 [[Palestinian refugee]]s - were removed from the stern jurisdiction of the [[Maronite]]-dominated Lebanese army's Deuxième Bureau and placed under the authority of the [[Palestinian Armed Struggle Command]].<ref name="cobban48">Cobban, 1984, p. 48.</ref> Although the camps remained under Lebanese sovereignty the new arrangements meant that, after 1969, they became a key popular base for the guerrilla movement.<ref name="cobban48"/><ref>Cobban, 1984, p. 64.</ref>

The agreement also established the right of the Palestinian residents of Lebanon "to join the Palestinian revolution through armed struggle".<ref>Weinberger, 1986, p. 126.</ref>

Subsequently, the [[Palestine Liberation Organization]] effectively established "a state within a state" in Lebanon.<ref>Rubenberg, 1986, p. 137</ref>

==Consequences==
Palestinian involvement did increase in Lebanon in the early 1970s, especially after [[Black September in Jordan|the failed coup in Jordan]] in September 1970, the Lebanese army being incapable of limiting the areas of PLO activity.<ref name="weisburd"/> In April 1975 [[Lebanese civil war|civil war]] broke out in Lebanon between the PLO and the Christians and several months later the leftist [[Lebanese National Movement]] entered the conflict on the side of the PLO.<ref name="kushner">Kushner, 2003, p.282.</ref> Following the military successes of this alliance the right-wing Maronite president [[Suleiman Frangieh]] called upon [[Syria]] to intervene. The PLO subsequently retreated to the south, but continued guerrilla operations across the Lebanon-[[Israel]] border, resulting in the [[1978 South Lebanon conflict|Israeli invasion]] of March, 1978.<ref name="kushner"/><ref>Federal Research Division, 2004, p. 206.</ref>

Escalations in the conflict led ultimately to the Israeli invasion and occupation of Lebanon in the [[1982 Lebanon War]].

{{see also|Israel-Lebanon conflict}}

== Repeal ==

In June 1987, the Lebanese President [[Amine Gemayel]] signed a law that annuls the Cairo Agreement with the [[PLO]]. The law repealing the agreement was first approved by the Lebanese parliament on [[May 21]] [[1987]],<ref>[http://www.nytimes.com/1987/05/22/world/lebanese-scrap-plo-accord-barring-bases.html The New York Times, Lebanese scrap PLO accord]</ref> and later subsequently signed by the prime minister [[Salim El Hoss]].

==Notes==
{{reflist}}

==References==
*Cobban, Helena (1984). ''The Palestinian Liberation Organisation: People, Power, and Politics''. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press. ISBN 0521272165
*Federal Research Division (2004). ''Lebanon: A Country Study''. Kessinger Publishing. ISBN 1419129430
*Kushner, Harvey, W. (2003). ''Encyclopedia of Terrorism''. Sage Publications. ISBN 0761924086
*Roeder, Philip G. & Rothchild, Donald S. (2005). ''Sustainable Peace: Power and Democracy After Civil Wars''. Cornell University Press. ISBN 0801489741
*Rubenberg, Cheryl A. (1986). ''Israel and the American National Interest: A Critical Examination''. University of Illinois Press. ISBN 0252060741
*Solh, Raghid el- (2004). ''Lebanon and Arabism''. I.B.Tauris. ISBN 1860640516
*Weinberger, Naomi Joy (1986). ''Syrian Intervention in Lebanon: The 1975-76 Civil War''. New York, NY: Oxford University Press. ISBN 0195040104
*Weisburd, Arthur (1997). ''Use of Force: The Practice of States, 1945-1991''. Penn State Press. ISBN 0271016809

{{DEFAULTSORT:Cairo Agreement}}
[[Category:Israeli–Palestinian conflict]]
[[Category:Israeli–Lebanese conflict]]
[[Category:1969 in Lebanon]]

[[ar:اتفاق القاهرة 1969]]
[[fr:Accords du Caire]]
[[it:Accordi del Cairo]]
[[he:הסכם קהיר (1969)]]
[[nl:Caïro-akkoord]]
[[no:Kairo-avtalen]]